Lost Arrow Spire Tip 5.12b or 5.7 C2

 
  • Currently 5.0/5
Search
Go

Lost Arrow Spire


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
Lost Arrow Spire - Fun in Sun with Father and Son
Thursday October 25, 2012 7:07pm
Credit: matty



All right everyone, I take a lot of trips and only write up a few TR's but I figured this one deserves it. Last month I climbed the lost arrow spire tip with my father (will be 70 in January). It was an awesome climb, but it was even better to share it with my father. It was nice to give him such a great experience after everything he has done for me.


My Dad brought me up to appreciate the outdoors and wild places. We used to take winter camping trip every year, we hiked, scrambled, went backcountry skiing, kayaking biking and on and on....but we never went climbing.


Credit: matty





off-pieste in Chamonix
off-pieste in Chamonix
Credit: matty



In college I figured it would be good learn how to use a rope and harness because I thought it might be cool to summit some backcountry peaks that were a bit harder.


So I bought a rope, harness, a few slings and biners and a copy of freedom of the hills. I read the book cover to cover several times and taught myself how to top rope off a tree in the backyard. The first time I went climbing I set it all up and had no one to double check my work, but I was confident.


As I started climbing more, I wanted a belay when I was home, and who better to ask than dad? Well, if he was already going to belay me, he may as well try climbing too. Over time he became more interested in climbing and I taught him everything he knows (how often does a kid get to say that to a father?)


I went on to solo my first big wall a few years later in yosemite followed by a move to calfornia. My dad comes out to visit each year and always wants to go climbing. He's worked his way up the grades and climbs yosemite 5.8/5.9 without much problem. He has expanded his sights and tried alpine climbing (we took a trip to Peru together) and he even expressed an interest in wall climbing.


ready for whitney in January!
ready for whitney in January!
Credit: matty





dad following royal arches
dad following royal arches
Credit: matty






after snake dike
after snake dike
Credit: matty





Dad after east ridge of mt. russell
Dad after east ridge of mt. russell
Credit: matty





dad after getting stormed off artesonraju in Peru
dad after getting stormed off artesonraju in Peru
Credit: matty






Ascending Maparaju
Ascending Maparaju
Credit: matty



Several years ago he followed me up the first few pitches of the NA wall with the goal of possibly doing the arrow spire. Well...the jumaring wore him out (it was his first time after all) and he decided between that and the exposure he was not up for it after all.

Fast forward to July 2012. I make arrangements with a friend to do the spire as it was still on my hit list. After telling my dad about the plans, he starts getting worked up and decides he wants to come as well. Schedules didn't work out so I'll be doing the spire twice but that's OK with me =)

EDIT: I ended up going a month lates with my buddy Mike. Read about it here.

My dad arrived at the end of September and we spent a day training at Texas Canyon. It's a really great place to practice because you have two 100ft+ steep domes about 100ft apart at the summit. perfect simulation of the tyrolean required for the spire.

We headed to the valley the last sunday in september. our plan was to crag sunday, do the spire monday, climb and come home tuesday.


Started the trip by getting spanked on generator crack. I tried it both ways in, starting from the ground (no tree) and it showed...eventually I managed to get up with a few hangs.



arms several days after generator crack
arms several days after generator crack
Credit: matty




We racked up the night before and started hiking at 5:30. It was my first time up the falls trail and it never seemed to end (especially with the big pack). Luckly we were able to stay in the shade and as the sun rose we scooted towards the switchbacks to the left of the falls and we never had direct sun until we were at yosemite point.




at yosemite point
at yosemite point
Credit: matty




It was easy to find the tree at the top and set things up. There was already a fixed rope there , but it was for a team doing the spire direct and they were way down towards the bottom. WE had the route to ourselves the entire day and only saw one or two people on the rim the entire time.



dad getting ready
dad getting ready
Credit: matty





flaking the rope
flaking the rope
Credit: matty






ready to go!
ready to go!
Credit: matty




I planned on doing the climb with just 2 60m ropes as several others have suggested. Clint Cummins has a good write up of that technique in a trip report here .The rap down to the notch was easy enough, I kept the end of the rope clipped to me so it would not get tangled below the notch.




Credit: matty






Credit: matty






looking ahead
looking ahead
Credit: matty






self portrait
self portrait
Credit: matty






Credit: matty




belay at the notch
belay at the notch
Credit: matty



My father followed and we set up the first belay. The first pitch was shorter than expected. The offwidth section overhangs and is a bit awkward to aid at the start. a little physical.




Credit: matty





Credit: matty




The Salathe ledge is a killer belay spot. The second pitch starts with a traverse left and then up a bolt line to the top. Easy but use lots of slings for rope drag and back clean alot.


Credit: matty





Credit: matty





Credit: matty





Credit: matty




The summit was great and I enjoyed the views waiting for my dad to follow.



Credit: matty




He came up and was pretty tired up top (but hey he's 69 so thats OK).




dad on the spire summit
dad on the spire summit
Credit: matty



WE did the cheap tyrolean back to the rim (jumars clipped to rim rope and then rap off spire on 2nd rope).

As he went back to the rim we were able to sneak in a quick high-five!!!




father son high 5 on lost arrow spire
father son high 5 on lost arrow spire
Credit: matty




Credit: matty




Credit: matty





Credit: matty


I took too much gear and never used any nuts. Here is what I will take next time in addition to personal gear (aiders, jumars ...)

5 quickdraws
10 slings
1 or 2 double slings
20 free biners
a few lockers
offset ailens (each with biner)
1 set cams #1-5 (each with biner)
1 grappling or cliffhanger hook
2 rivet hangers (or 2 small nuts to use)


If I was free climbing the first pitch I would definately leave the #5 and maybe even the #4. First pitch didnt look to hard to free and was much shorter than expected. I back cleaned a lot and busted some free moves here and there. If you were aiding every move and leaving gear you would probably want more gear than my list above.



The sun was going down as we headed down. Those f*#king switchbacks seemed to go on forever again. We made it down just before the cafe closed and were able to grab a quick sandwich and a few beers.


CHEERS!!!!!

Matt

You can read my TR of my second spire trip here if you want more


I'll leave you with a self portrait from the summit...one of my favorites...



self portrait from lost arrow spire
self portrait from lost arrow spire
Credit: matty


  Trip Report Views: 2,873
matty
About the Author
matty is and is not butt knott at the same time

Comments
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
John Butler

Social climber
SLC, Utah
  Oct 25, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
Nice..... very nice
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Oct 25, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
Matt......

Now I know.

You get it from your dad.

Who is pretty rad.

Very special.

Thanks
Timid TopRope

Social climber
the land of Pale Ale
  Oct 29, 2012 - 08:13pm PT
Way to get on it with your pops! Myself, only been on the arrow from a tyrolean set up by delhi dog. Really great TR and love those shadow portraits. You're lucky to have a dad willing to get on it when most older dads are resting on their laurels ('cept donini). To quote that C Steven's song, Father and Son : You may still be here tomorrow but your dreams may not.

I was ready for a long bout of lurker status but your TR brought me back for a shout out. Thank You
WBraun

climber
  Oct 25, 2012 - 08:09pm PT
Super!!!!

MikeDrake

Trad climber
Seattle
  Oct 25, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
That shadow/tyrolean high five picture is hilarious! Nice!
Fletcher

Gym climber
A very quiet place
  Oct 25, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
What a great report! You're dad is the real deal. Definitely a two way relationship in the giving department here. You are a lucky man.

Eric
eyes of a mamba

Trad climber
seaside
  Oct 25, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
best report I have read in a while
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Oct 25, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
Now that is a cool TR. I'm a big fan of the Shadow pics, as well.
TFPU, in a big way. BIG!
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
  Oct 25, 2012 - 09:35pm PT
That is so f-ing cool you did that with your father!! My parents encouraged me towards my interests in outdoor activities but they never wanted me to rockclimb. Only after my mother died, did I take up rockclimbing with my father's grudging acceptance. Over 35 years have passed since then & my father has never been interested in going climbing but likes to hang out & watch sometimes. A raft trip down the Merced is about the wildest thing we have done together. I am blessed to have him for my dad but your father is cut from a different bolt of cloth than most men his age.

I think that your doing so many fantastic adventures with your dad is tremendous. You should be proud of each other. He raised a fine son & you were blessed with an amazing father.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
  Oct 25, 2012 - 09:51pm PT
LOVE.

What a special thing that you can share w/ your dad!
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
  Oct 26, 2012 - 12:57am PT
Fanfreakingtastic. Thanks for the TR.

Wish everyone had your Dad's spirit and zest for adventure.
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Oct 26, 2012 - 01:01am PT
Very nice Matty - Climb on.
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
  Oct 26, 2012 - 01:44am PT
Sweeet!
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Oct 26, 2012 - 02:01am PT
Oh this was just a wonderful read. I am SO happy for the two of you! Very very special.



Susan
enjoimx

Trad climber
SLO
  Oct 26, 2012 - 02:33am PT
Good work man. That was an awesome TR!
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Oct 26, 2012 - 09:25am PT
Very Cool Matty,
I can relate,
went climbing with my Son in Law a week ago.
TFPU
Tad
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
  Oct 26, 2012 - 10:10am PT
That was beautiful! Thanks!
snakefoot

climber
Nor Cal
  Oct 26, 2012 - 11:07am PT
bump for living the dream
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Oct 26, 2012 - 11:27am PT
Way, way cool!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Oct 26, 2012 - 11:32am PT
Excellent! Your Dad is an Animal!
eKat

Trad climber
  Oct 26, 2012 - 11:38am PT
LOOK HOW BEAUTIFUL YOU TWO ARE!

THIS COMPLETELY MADE MY WEEK!

TFPU!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
  Oct 26, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
very nice matty!
glad u can have a dad whom climb's.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Oct 26, 2012 - 04:12pm PT
As a father (in his 60's) of two daughters who still humble themselves enough to climb with me, this trip report really made me happy. Thank you both for the report, and for reporting your love and appreciation for your father.

Even if this were not a father and son, I would have loved the TR for its fine pictures, but the father and son aspect makes it particularly wonderful. Thank you for making my day!

John
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Oct 26, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
this is a fabulous TR. I really enjoyed reading it, Great shots too. Thanks!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Oct 26, 2012 - 06:06pm PT
Stellar TR, thanks for sharing, your dad is da MAN!!!!!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Oct 26, 2012 - 06:19pm PT
After doing that to yer dad you tried to make up for it with a trip to
the Deli? Dood, way lame. I think you're outta the will. You might
have salvaged it with dinner at the Ahwahnee but, no, you had to go cheap, huh?

At least the first shot was cool. ;-)
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
  Oct 26, 2012 - 06:32pm PT
Holy awesome!!!

So cool, I hope I can keep getting my dad out, because it's so much fun!

I really liked the intro shots of the cool stuff you've done together.
David Wilson

climber
CA
  Oct 26, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
awesome !!!
Zander

climber
  Oct 26, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
Incredible adventure with your Dad!
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Oct 26, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
Your a lucky crew!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Oct 27, 2012 - 01:05am PT
Awesome TR, very cool bond u have with your pops. I was lucky enough to teach my dad to climb & its one of the more rewarding things I've done. To be able to teach something to the person that taught you everything is a feeling like no other. Thanks for bringing that feeling to the surface.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Oct 27, 2012 - 08:36am PT
Awesome, what a great thing. You're both rich men that keep vesting in time together that will never be forgotten or taken for granted......well done.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Oct 27, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
Awesome Matty!!! I've tried to get my pops out by he just keeps insisting that he's too old. He taught me everything about having fun outside when I was a kid... Wish I could return the favor... What were you shooting with up there??
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Author's Reply  Oct 27, 2012 - 03:41pm PT
Thanks for the kind words everyone. Added my rack info to the TR for reference.

Mike - I was shooting with my Nikon D80 and a 10-20 superwide zoom. Carried it on lead in my back pack. It was cool to scope and I've got some good ideas for some killer shots next time.
Pcutler

climber
Iowa
  Oct 29, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
cool
Tami

Social climber
Canada
  Oct 29, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
HAhahaa for the shot of Dad on top of Spire. Great pics !!!! Great TR
Woody the Beaver

Trad climber
Soldier, Idaho
  Oct 29, 2012 - 05:53pm PT
thanks for the TR. I can identify with Pop; I'm 66 and I tag along behind my son at the City of Rocks and a few other crags. Great stuff! Thanks.
10b4me

climber
  Oct 29, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
very cool
rincon

Trad climber
Coarsegold
  Oct 29, 2012 - 09:04pm PT
Matty!!!!!!!!!!!

Way cool dude!
hooth

Boulder climber
Sconnie
  Nov 6, 2012 - 04:35pm PT
biggity bump
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Feb 1, 2013 - 10:11am PT
Great report Matty. I'd seen it before but I guess I hadn't commented.
I'd say you AND your dad are pretty lucky.
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
  Feb 1, 2013 - 10:21am PT
Way cool story and pictures.
I too have been lucky to have sons that will climb with me.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Feb 1, 2013 - 11:03am PT
right on, man!!!
Fossil climber

Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
  Feb 1, 2013 - 05:55pm PT
You're incredibly lucky to have been able to share that. I'm envious.
Well done.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
  Feb 1, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
What an inspiration! Especially since your Dad is a year older than me.
Those are the most striking photos from the Lost Arrow I've seen also.
Amazing shadows.
Urizen

Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
  Feb 1, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
^^^^!!!!

Got that, everybody? The correct word is envious. The correct word is not jealous.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Feb 1, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
Wow!!! Was that a good TR or what. I'll be in the Valley for the entire month of May. I'd love to meet you guys, your dad ia about a year older than me.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Author's Reply  Feb 1, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
Yep, pops likes to get out there and get it done.

Jim - Thanks for the invite. I'll see if we can fit a trip to Yosemite in May. My dad really draws inspiration/motivation from what you are doing as someone his age. I'm sure it would be really fun to meet up.

Matt
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Feb 2, 2013 - 11:13am PT
Man I like this trip report. Each time I see it it's like a breath of fresh air.
Trad is Rad

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo California
  Feb 7, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
Awesome trip report! I hope im still climbing when im 69.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Author's Reply  Mar 7, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
Went to visit my parents in colorado a few weeks ago. Dad still charges the steeps!


Credit: matty
Chuck S.

Trad climber
Michigan
  May 3, 2013 - 04:25pm PT
Well, I'm the dad in this deal and it's been a blast growing up with Matt. I'm so fortunate to have this relationship of adventure, risk, trust and reward. We started out doing backpacking when he was 4 or 5 and just expanded on that. We've done a variety of trips, biking, extreme ski camps, mountaineering and rock climbing. Back in the stone ages, I was the teacher, guide and mentor. That didn't take long to change, as Matt had the ambition and skills to share and sometimes take over those roles at an early age.

We talked about doing the Spire for 4-5 years, but I always backed out because of the exposure and the "pucker factor". So I finally decided I had to do it before I was too old to make it happen. I got my butt into shape for the Falls trail by doing laps on the stairs of the local University Hospital with a loaded pack. I was elated that Matt agreed to do this and help me with the technical aspects. He's a fantastic teacher and it showed during the training and dry runs that we did at the Texas Rocks before the real deal.

We love to relax after the climbs with beer and pizza and we have our favorite hang outs in Yosemite, Joshua, Taquitz, and Lone Pine.

I looking forward to the next adventure, whatever that might be.

Donini - Thanks for the invite, sorry we can't make to Yosemite in May. I recently saw a slide presentation by a local student here in Michigan who had some good stores about climbing with you in Tajikistan. You've been a great role model for growing old and staying young.
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
  May 3, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
Way awesome!!!

2 questions...

What camera were you using and what pitch on the RA is your father on? Doesn't look familiar.
Roots

Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
  May 3, 2013 - 06:26pm PT
I'm looking forward to the next adventure, whatever that might be.

That's bad azz!!
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
  May 3, 2013 - 06:55pm PT
Very cool you and dad made the trip
wheels2thewall

Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
  May 4, 2013 - 02:54am PT
What a memorable trip that you will always remember with a smile. I loved reading about your adventure, and the pictures are amazing. Don't ever let age stop you from accomplishing what you want to do! Proud of you for including your dad in this experience. And thankful you both made it up and back safely! Nice climb!
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Go
Lost Arrow Spire - Lost Arrow Spire Tip 5.12b or 5.7 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
One of the most spectacular summits in Yosemite.
Photo: Corey Rich
Other Routes on Lost Arrow Spire
Lost Arrow Spire - Lost Arrow Spire Direct C2 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Lost Arrow Spire Direct, C2 5.8
Lost Arrow Spire
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Lost Arrow Spire - Lost Arrow Chimney 5.10 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Lost Arrow Chimney, 5.10
Lost Arrow Spire
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5