Trip Report
Lost Arrow Spire - Fun in Sun with Father and Son
Thursday October 25, 2012 7:07pm
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All right everyone, I take a lot of trips and only write up a few TR's but I figured this one deserves it. Last month I climbed the lost arrow spire tip with my father (will be 70 in January). It was an awesome climb, but it was even better to share it with my father. It was nice to give him such a great experience after everything he has done for me.
My Dad brought me up to appreciate the outdoors and wild places. We used to take winter camping trip every year, we hiked, scrambled, went backcountry skiing, kayaking biking and on and on....but we never went climbing.
In college I figured it would be good learn how to use a rope and harness because I thought it might be cool to summit some backcountry peaks that were a bit harder.
So I bought a rope, harness, a few slings and biners and a copy of freedom of the hills. I read the book cover to cover several times and taught myself how to top rope off a tree in the backyard. The first time I went climbing I set it all up and had no one to double check my work, but I was confident.
As I started climbing more, I wanted a belay when I was home, and who better to ask than dad? Well, if he was already going to belay me, he may as well try climbing too. Over time he became more interested in climbing and I taught him everything he knows (how often does a kid get to say that to a father?)
I went on to solo my first big wall a few years later in yosemite followed by a move to calfornia. My dad comes out to visit each year and always wants to go climbing. He's worked his way up the grades and climbs yosemite 5.8/5.9 without much problem. He has expanded his sights and tried alpine climbing (we took a trip to Peru together) and he even expressed an interest in wall climbing.
Several years ago he followed me up the first few pitches of the NA wall with the goal of possibly doing the arrow spire. Well...the jumaring wore him out (it was his first time after all) and he decided between that and the exposure he was not up for it after all.
Fast forward to July 2012. I make arrangements with a friend to do the spire as it was still on my hit list. After telling my dad about the plans, he starts getting worked up and decides he wants to come as well. Schedules didn't work out so I'll be doing the spire twice but that's OK with me =)
EDIT: I ended up going a month lates with my buddy Mike. Read about it here.
My dad arrived at the end of September and we spent a day training at Texas Canyon. It's a really great place to practice because you have two 100ft+ steep domes about 100ft apart at the summit. perfect simulation of the tyrolean required for the spire.
We headed to the valley the last sunday in september. our plan was to crag sunday, do the spire monday, climb and come home tuesday.
Started the trip by getting spanked on generator crack. I tried it both ways in, starting from the ground (no tree) and it showed...eventually I managed to get up with a few hangs.
We racked up the night before and started hiking at 5:30. It was my first time up the falls trail and it never seemed to end (especially with the big pack). Luckly we were able to stay in the shade and as the sun rose we scooted towards the switchbacks to the left of the falls and we never had direct sun until we were at yosemite point.
It was easy to find the tree at the top and set things up. There was already a fixed rope there , but it was for a team doing the spire direct and they were way down towards the bottom. WE had the route to ourselves the entire day and only saw one or two people on the rim the entire time.
I planned on doing the climb with just 2 60m ropes as several others have suggested. Clint Cummins has a good write up of that technique in a trip report here .The rap down to the notch was easy enough, I kept the end of the rope clipped to me so it would not get tangled below the notch.
My father followed and we set up the first belay. The first pitch was shorter than expected. The offwidth section overhangs and is a bit awkward to aid at the start. a little physical.
The Salathe ledge is a killer belay spot. The second pitch starts with a traverse left and then up a bolt line to the top. Easy but use lots of slings for rope drag and back clean alot.
The summit was great and I enjoyed the views waiting for my dad to follow.
He came up and was pretty tired up top (but hey he's 69 so thats OK).
WE did the cheap tyrolean back to the rim (jumars clipped to rim rope and then rap off spire on 2nd rope).
As he went back to the rim we were able to sneak in a quick high-five!!!
I took too much gear and never used any nuts. Here is what I will take next time in addition to personal gear (aiders, jumars ...)
5 quickdraws
10 slings
1 or 2 double slings
20 free biners
a few lockers
offset ailens (each with biner)
1 set cams #1-5 (each with biner)
1 grappling or cliffhanger hook
2 rivet hangers (or 2 small nuts to use)
If I was free climbing the first pitch I would definately leave the #5 and maybe even the #4. First pitch didnt look to hard to free and was much shorter than expected. I back cleaned a lot and busted some free moves here and there. If you were aiding every move and leaving gear you would probably want more gear than my list above.
The sun was going down as we headed down. Those f*#king switchbacks seemed to go on forever again. We made it down just before the cafe closed and were able to grab a quick sandwich and a few beers.
CHEERS!!!!!
Matt
You can read my TR of my second spire trip here if you want more
I'll leave you with a self portrait from the summit...one of my favorites...
matty
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About the Author matty is and is not butt knott at the same time |
Comments
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back... |
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John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
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Oct 25, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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Nice..... very nice
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 25, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
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Matt......
Now I know.
You get it from your dad.
Who is pretty rad.
Very special.
Thanks
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Timid TopRope
Social climber
the land of Pale Ale
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Oct 29, 2012 - 08:13pm PT
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Way to get on it with your pops! Myself, only been on the arrow from a tyrolean set up by delhi dog. Really great TR and love those shadow portraits. You're lucky to have a dad willing to get on it when most older dads are resting on their laurels ('cept donini). To quote that C Steven's song, Father and Son : You may still be here tomorrow but your dreams may not.
I was ready for a long bout of lurker status but your TR brought me back for a shout out. Thank You
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 25, 2012 - 08:09pm PT
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Super!!!!
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MikeDrake
Trad climber
Seattle
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Oct 25, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
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That shadow/tyrolean high five picture is hilarious! Nice!
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Fletcher
Boulder climber
Institute of Better Bouldering-DirtbagDad Division
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Oct 25, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
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What a great report! You're dad is the real deal. Definitely a two way relationship in the giving department here. You are a lucky man.
Eric
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eyes of a mamba
Trad climber
seaside
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Oct 25, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
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best report I have read in a while
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Oct 25, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
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Now that is a cool TR. I'm a big fan of the Shadow pics, as well.
TFPU, in a big way. BIG!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Oct 25, 2012 - 09:35pm PT
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That is so f-ing cool you did that with your father!! My parents encouraged me towards my interests in outdoor activities but they never wanted me to rockclimb. Only after my mother died, did I take up rockclimbing with my father's grudging acceptance. Over 35 years have passed since then & my father has never been interested in going climbing but likes to hang out & watch sometimes. A raft trip down the Merced is about the wildest thing we have done together. I am blessed to have him for my dad but your father is cut from a different bolt of cloth than most men his age.
I think that your doing so many fantastic adventures with your dad is tremendous. You should be proud of each other. He raised a fine son & you were blessed with an amazing father.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Oct 25, 2012 - 09:51pm PT
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LOVE.
What a special thing that you can share w/ your dad!
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Oct 26, 2012 - 12:57am PT
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Fanfreakingtastic. Thanks for the TR.
Wish everyone had your Dad's spirit and zest for adventure.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 26, 2012 - 01:01am PT
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Very nice Matty - Climb on.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, Utah
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Oct 26, 2012 - 01:44am PT
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Sweeet!
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Oct 26, 2012 - 02:01am PT
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Oh this was just a wonderful read. I am SO happy for the two of you! Very very special.
Susan
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Oct 26, 2012 - 02:33am PT
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Good work man. That was an awesome TR!
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T Hocking
Trad climber
Redding, Ca
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Oct 26, 2012 - 09:25am PT
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Very Cool Matty,
I can relate,
went climbing with my Son in Law a week ago.
TFPU
Tad
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Newbury Park
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Oct 26, 2012 - 10:10am PT
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That was beautiful! Thanks!
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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Oct 26, 2012 - 11:07am PT
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bump for living the dream
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Oct 26, 2012 - 11:27am PT
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Way, way cool!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Oct 26, 2012 - 11:32am PT
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Excellent! Your Dad is an Animal!
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eKat
climber
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Oct 26, 2012 - 11:38am PT
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LOOK HOW BEAUTIFUL YOU TWO ARE!
THIS COMPLETELY MADE MY WEEK!
TFPU!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Oct 26, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
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very nice matty!
glad u can have a dad whom climb's.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Oct 26, 2012 - 04:12pm PT
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As a father (in his 60's) of two daughters who still humble themselves enough to climb with me, this trip report really made me happy. Thank you both for the report, and for reporting your love and appreciation for your father.
Even if this were not a father and son, I would have loved the TR for its fine pictures, but the father and son aspect makes it particularly wonderful. Thank you for making my day!
John
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Oct 26, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
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this is a fabulous TR. I really enjoyed reading it, Great shots too. Thanks!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Oct 26, 2012 - 06:06pm PT
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Stellar TR, thanks for sharing, your dad is da MAN!!!!!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 26, 2012 - 06:19pm PT
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After doing that to yer dad you tried to make up for it with a trip to
the Deli? Dood, way lame. I think you're outta the will. You might
have salvaged it with dinner at the Ahwahnee but, no, you had to go cheap, huh?
At least the first shot was cool. ;-)
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Oct 26, 2012 - 06:32pm PT
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Holy awesome!!!
So cool, I hope I can keep getting my dad out, because it's so much fun!
I really liked the intro shots of the cool stuff you've done together.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Oct 26, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
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awesome !!!
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Zander
climber
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Oct 26, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
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Incredible adventure with your Dad!
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Oct 26, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
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Your a lucky crew!
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RyanD
climber
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Oct 27, 2012 - 01:05am PT
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Awesome TR, very cool bond u have with your pops. I was lucky enough to teach my dad to climb & its one of the more rewarding things I've done. To be able to teach something to the person that taught you everything is a feeling like no other. Thanks for bringing that feeling to the surface.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Oct 27, 2012 - 08:36am PT
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Awesome, what a great thing. You're both rich men that keep vesting in time together that will never be forgotten or taken for granted......well done.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Oct 27, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
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Awesome Matty!!! I've tried to get my pops out by he just keeps insisting that he's too old. He taught me everything about having fun outside when I was a kid... Wish I could return the favor... What were you shooting with up there??
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Author's Reply
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Oct 27, 2012 - 03:41pm PT
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Thanks for the kind words everyone. Added my rack info to the TR for reference.
Mike - I was shooting with my Nikon D80 and a 10-20 superwide zoom. Carried it on lead in my back pack. It was cool to scope and I've got some good ideas for some killer shots next time.
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Pcutler
climber
Iowa
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Oct 29, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
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cool
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Woody the Beaver
Trad climber
Soldier, Idaho
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Oct 29, 2012 - 05:53pm PT
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thanks for the TR. I can identify with Pop; I'm 66 and I tag along behind my son at the City of Rocks and a few other crags. Great stuff! Thanks.
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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Oct 29, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
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very cool
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Oct 29, 2012 - 09:04pm PT
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Matty!!!!!!!!!!!
Way cool dude!
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hooth
Boulder climber
Sconnie
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biggity bump
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Great report Matty. I'd seen it before but I guess I hadn't commented.
I'd say you AND your dad are pretty lucky.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Way cool story and pictures.
I too have been lucky to have sons that will climb with me.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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right on, man!!!
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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You're incredibly lucky to have been able to share that. I'm envious.
Well done.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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What an inspiration! Especially since your Dad is a year older than me.
Those are the most striking photos from the Lost Arrow I've seen also.
Amazing shadows.
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Urizen
Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
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^^^^!!!!
Got that, everybody? The correct word is envious. The correct word is not jealous.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Wow!!! Was that a good TR or what. I'll be in the Valley for the entire month of May. I'd love to meet you guys, your dad ia about a year older than me.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Author's Reply
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Feb 1, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
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Yep, pops likes to get out there and get it done.
Jim - Thanks for the invite. I'll see if we can fit a trip to Yosemite in May. My dad really draws inspiration/motivation from what you are doing as someone his age. I'm sure it would be really fun to meet up.
Matt
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Man I like this trip report. Each time I see it it's like a breath of fresh air.
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Trad is Rad
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo California
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Awesome trip report! I hope im still climbing when im 69.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Author's Reply
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Mar 7, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
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Went to visit my parents in colorado a few weeks ago. Dad still charges the steeps!
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Chuck S.
Trad climber
Michigan
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Well, I'm the dad in this deal and it's been a blast growing up with Matt. I'm so fortunate to have this relationship of adventure, risk, trust and reward. We started out doing backpacking when he was 4 or 5 and just expanded on that. We've done a variety of trips, biking, extreme ski camps, mountaineering and rock climbing. Back in the stone ages, I was the teacher, guide and mentor. That didn't take long to change, as Matt had the ambition and skills to share and sometimes take over those roles at an early age.
We talked about doing the Spire for 4-5 years, but I always backed out because of the exposure and the "pucker factor". So I finally decided I had to do it before I was too old to make it happen. I got my butt into shape for the Falls trail by doing laps on the stairs of the local University Hospital with a loaded pack. I was elated that Matt agreed to do this and help me with the technical aspects. He's a fantastic teacher and it showed during the training and dry runs that we did at the Texas Rocks before the real deal.
We love to relax after the climbs with beer and pizza and we have our favorite hang outs in Yosemite, Joshua, Taquitz, and Lone Pine.
I looking forward to the next adventure, whatever that might be.
Donini - Thanks for the invite, sorry we can't make to Yosemite in May. I recently saw a slide presentation by a local student here in Michigan who had some good stores about climbing with you in Tajikistan. You've been a great role model for growing old and staying young.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Way awesome!!!
2 questions...
What camera were you using and what pitch on the RA is your father on? Doesn't look familiar.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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I'm looking forward to the next adventure, whatever that might be.
That's bad azz!!
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Very cool you and dad made the trip
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wheels2thewall
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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What a memorable trip that you will always remember with a smile. I loved reading about your adventure, and the pictures are amazing. Don't ever let age stop you from accomplishing what you want to do! Proud of you for including your dad in this experience. And thankful you both made it up and back safely! Nice climb!
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One of the most spectacular summits in Yosemite. Photo: Corey Rich
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