Red Dihedral 5.10b

 
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Incredible Hulk


High Sierra, California USA


Trip Report
Incredible Hulk - Red Dihedral (photo TR)
Thursday July 12, 2012 2:47pm
Back in 2010, I passed by the Incredible Hulk as a part of the Sierra Challenge(http://www.snwburd.com/bob/challenge/2005/wsj.htm nice article by Michael Ybarra RIP). I did not rock climb much back than, and seeing climbers half way up this magnificent rock face made me a bit dizzy. "They must be professionals," I thought.
Hulk!!
Hulk!!
Credit: Vitaliy M.
After the challenge was over I felt reasonably fit (I completed all 10 challenge peaks topped with another 7 bonus peaks in 10 days), and slowly shifted towards rock climbing. Peak bagging did not seem challenging to me any longer. Through second part of 2011 I got out to climb rock often. Bryan and I developed a good partnership and attempted to climb Beeline on the Hulk in the late September.
Looks small huh? It isn't!
Looks small huh? It isn't!
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Loving the granite
Loving the granite
Credit: Vitaliy M.
It was the longest and most sustained route we attempted. Although we would push ourselves hard on that, it seemed possible. On the other hand Red Dihedral looked way too sustained, long, and intimidating. Combination of a late start, getting off route, a coming thunderstorm, and fear of a long route shut us down. We were simply not ready.
Meadow on the approach
Meadow on the approach
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Red Dihedral above
Red Dihedral above
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Although not naturally gifted with incredible strength and finesse, my new passion for rock helped me improve my skills. Climbing with better people more often, and going after climbs that seemed over our head gradually taught Bryan and I a few lessons. It was a first weekend of 2012 and we had a re-match with the Hulk. We knew Beeline would not be too challenging, so we bumped our aim to Red Dihedral-"One of the best 5.10s in Sierra."
Since Bryan was able to get off from work early on Friday, and we had a few friends camping up there, we decided to hike in on Friday as well. We left the trail-head at 5pm and were setting up our tent around 7. Just a few hours of walking to get a view of an awesome sunset.
Sunrise over Outguard spire etc
Sunrise over Outguard spire etc
Credit: Vitaliy M.
After eating and chatting with our friends (Cristiano and Brian) we went to sleep a bit early to get sufficient rest for the 'big day.'
glow on Red Dihedral
glow on Red Dihedral
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Start of the route is easy to locate. It is a exposed 3rd class ramp which trends left, and than another ramp leads you towards a giant dihedral-Red Dihedral pitch. From the bottom this dihedral looks overhanging.
Bryan starting up pitch 2. He linked it with 3rd pitch as well.
Bryan starting up pitch 2. He linked it with 3rd pitch as well.
Credit: Vitaliy M.
I took the first 5.8 pitch, which was a good warm up, but not as easy for a 5.8 move. Bryan linked the next two 5.9 pitches like a pro, and we were at the base of the Red Dihedral in no time.
Cheburashka in the Red Dihedral
Cheburashka in the Red Dihedral
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Although my hardest leads were all 5.10a before, I decided to push myself and took the next pitch. Seemed like a good occasion for a first 10b lead. RD featured a tight (for my hand size) hand crack in a beautiful corner and even required a few ring locks. Although a friend told me it features a good amount of rests like the Hospital Corner at Lovers Leap, I figured that to be B/S! The exiting moves (stemming in a flare) were fairly insecure without the bomber hand crack I followed up. But after reaching the bomber finger lock and a few face moves, I was home safe. It felt good.
Leading Red Dihedral-the only good rest stem I found
Leading Red Dihedral-the only good rest stem I found
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Bryan following RD pitch
Bryan following RD pitch
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Before the climb Bryan requested the 10a hand crack pitch if I get the Red Dihedral. He linked the next two pitches in one, which set me up for another glorious pitch. I 'forgot' that the next pitch features the crack (sorry Bryan :) ) and went for it. Quality of climbing on this pitch was superb, but the hand crack was SUPER thin for my hands. I mostly protected it with .5 and .75 pieces, and that is NOT my happy size! After a lot of grunting and a good amount of over protecting I got to the top of it clean anyway.
10a crack ahead
10a crack ahead
Credit: Vitaliy M.
lookind down the 10a crack (thin hands for me)
lookind down the 10a crack (thin hands for me)
Credit: Vitaliy M.
From here Bryan linked another two pitches on one of his leads and we were up through more blocky and not too sustained climbing. Although there was a thin crack with a fixed red Alien that was VERY tough, rest of the climbing was much less sustained. Also, it is better to avoid going directly up the 'shattered pillar,' it is full of death blocks.
DON'T GO THIS WAY
DON'T GO THIS WAY
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Views
Views
Credit: Vitaliy M.
After we finished the route and did the loose 3rd class across the ledge, we had another two pitches to go. These pitches were not the reason why we came to climb the Hulk, but birth canal was an interesting part we all heard about. Going through it, I was glad to be a few pounds lighter than in the mid 2011 (or 20 lbs to be exact).
Not sure why am I laughing...this pitch is not fun
Not sure why am I laughing...this pitch is not fun
Credit: Vitaliy M.
birth canal
birth canal
Credit: Vitaliy M.
We scrambled to the summit and waited for our friends to join us. While waiting, Cheburashka captured the Hulk ball and I went through most of the summit registers.
Cheburashka says Happy Birthday!
Cheburashka says Happy Birthday!
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Saw numerous entries from all kinds of pro climbers, and logs of impressive ascents by non pros. It was a great experience without the usual wind and thunderstorms that Bridgeport attracts oh so well.
Pretty cool
Pretty cool
Credit: Vitaliy M.
I saw this on a youtube video!
I saw this on a youtube video!
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Hulk ball
Hulk ball
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Many STers in there too!
Familiar dude!
Familiar dude!
Credit: Vitaliy M.
3 routes in a day?! wow awesome.
3 routes in a day?! wow awesome.
Credit: Vitaliy M.
LOL
LOL
Credit: Vitaliy M.
After our friends joined 'the party' we took a few photos, signed our topo, and descended. Turned out my friend Hamik did the whole route (aside from the RD pitch) in his approach shoes. Fantastic.
Top ramen in camp did not sound as good as Burgers in Bridgeport, so we decided to hike out. We had plenty of daylight to make it back to the car without being required to use our headlamps.
All of us happy on top. Thank you Kara for a cool photo!
All of us happy on top. Thank you Kara for a cool photo!
Credit: Vitaliy M.
views on descent
views on descent
Credit: Vitaliy M.

  Trip Report Views: 3,155
Vitaliy M.
About the Author
Vitaliy M. is annoying gym climber from San Francisco.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
sullly

Trad climber
  Jul 12, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
Wow. Your camera really captures color. Like the bear and summit signatures. You are really getting out on the rock this year!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 12, 2012 - 03:14pm PT
Great Job and TR as usual Vitality,
The Cheburashka sure gets around,
Thanks!!!
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Jul 12, 2012 - 03:14pm PT
kickin' arse and taking names. Nice pictures!
toadgas

Social climber
los angeles
  Jul 12, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
-

the lad is on a Sierra rampage

vitaliy is the REAL deal, contrary to the Mongol's gloomy predictions!



.
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
  Jul 12, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
Vitaliy - we actully saw your name in the register.
we missed you by a day.

awesome TR
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
  Jul 12, 2012 - 03:29pm PT
Great TR! I gotta get on that!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Jul 12, 2012 - 03:41pm PT
vitaliy is the REAL deal

Should of been there to hear me moan on RD pitch : )

Riley, too bad we were not there on the same day. Would be a REAL party up there haha

Thanks guys
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Jul 12, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
nice job youngsta...!
Bryan B

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
  Jul 12, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
Another great write up V! You took some fantastic photos.
Conrad

climber
  Jul 12, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
Nice set of images and story to go along with them. One of the best crags in the Sierra.
Thanks...
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
  Jul 12, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
Nice TR. Hope to have my name there in a couple of weeks.....
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
  Jul 12, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
Well done and way to get after it!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jul 12, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
Beautiful pictures and story! Vitaliy, your enthusiasim and love for climbing come thru bigtime in all of your posts.....sign me up to share a rope in the near future.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
  Jul 12, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
Awesome!




Mt. Bago :)
Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
  Jul 12, 2012 - 06:01pm PT
Awesome job! Gotta love it when you snake all the glory pitches. "Sorrrryyyy duuudde! but I'm just going to KEEP CLIMBING! Is that OoKK?! What did you say?! I can't hear you! Oh well, we can talk about it at the NEXT BELAY!!! " Hahaha. Gotta love that one. ;)
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
  Jul 12, 2012 - 06:40pm PT
we got to hook up - i just realised!!!!!

This just might be the most beautiful alpine area I have ever been and my favorite.

jajajajajajaja
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jul 12, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
Way to go Vitaliy!!

Rock on! The Monkeys are sending!

Well written too.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  Jul 12, 2012 - 09:23pm PT
Vitaly! Nice work! I wish we had all met up, we actually got shushed by some dude and his girlfriend because Riley and I were talking to loud. Most beautiful mountain I've seen yet, great route.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Jul 12, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
Great report and photos - thanks for sharing!
skywalker

climber
  Jul 12, 2012 - 09:45pm PT
God that thing looks beautiful! Thanks for posting!

Cheers!!!

S....
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
  Jul 12, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
, we actually got shushed by some dude and his girlfriend b
because Riley and I were talking to loud

jajaja, and than they still bailed!!!!
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Jul 12, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
Nice! That dihedral does look like a mirrored version of Hospital Corner. The hand crack up above looks good, too.
hamik

Mountain climber
Pasadena, CA
  Jul 13, 2012 - 12:36am PT
Jeez, Vitaliy, are you going to climb with me anymore now that Donini wants to share a rope with you? ;-) It was great to hang out with you (however briefly) on the summit, and contrary to my loud, "hurry the F*#K up," you kicked ass on the dihedral pitch. Good job conning Bryan out of the killer splitter pitch--I wish I knew to look for it!
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Jul 13, 2012 - 06:00am PT
Great tr sir.
The Alpine

climber
  Jul 13, 2012 - 07:22am PT
Awesome TR. I love the register entry for Airstream.
ElGreco

Mountain climber
  Jul 13, 2012 - 08:03am PT
Nicely done, again! And great photos. Keep them coming.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Jul 13, 2012 - 11:07am PT
sign me up to share a rope in the near future.

Hamik, THAT IS some stiff competition. : ) jk We all should climb together when we go to Indian Creek again, or if Jim is around Sierra. A 4 day trip into Feather/Merriam area would be awesome, or some kind of a ridge traverse, or lot's of other stuff.

Thank you all.

Karo, you guys got shushed?! wow REALLY?!

spenchur

climber
Flagstaff/Thousand Oaks
  Jul 13, 2012 - 11:08am PT
I really gotta go do that thing...
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jul 13, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
Yes I agree, Vitaliy you're having an amazing season up in the mountains.

But just as importantly for us seldom-get-out-sad-bastards, you've become in my mind the MVP of the Supertopo TR forum. Your TR's keep the psyche real high - thanks as always! Keep 'em coming.
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  Jul 13, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
Great TR.
Johnny K.

climber
  Jul 13, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
Sweet pics,great stuff!
Zander

climber
  Jul 13, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
Nice TR!
Z
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Jul 16, 2012 - 11:04am PT
you've become in my mind the MVP of the Supertopo TR forum.

total B/S! Micronut came back! : )
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jul 16, 2012 - 11:46am PT
Yeah, Vitaliy, I'm back! But you're gettin up stuff while I flail in defeat. You're ticking off my dream routes like its a freakin' shopping list. Great write up man. You guys are killin' it out there. Great photos and words, as per usual. You guys and Adam and I need to hook up for some backcountry action this fall. We're doin Matthes Crest in Aug/Sept. You guys been up there yet?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Jul 16, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
Will email you to avoid shameless-self bump. We been up it from north to south but never from south to north, let's do it! Maybe early September? I am away from CA for 1st 2 weeks of August.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  Jul 16, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
I hope Old Lady Shapoklyak kicks your A$$!

photo not found
Missing photo ID#255581



Nice TR, BTW.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
  Jul 18, 2012 - 11:22am PT
Great stuff! Love the summit register TR. Brings back memories Yeah, we just had a topo from Dave Nettle at the time that called the route 5.10. Afterward I asked Peter Croft "Man, that is some HARD 5.10!" And Croft said "Yeah, more like harder 5.11." So I now add plus .1 to an original hand drawn Nettle topo. Peter also said I was not off to call the Red Dihedral 5.10b instead of 5.9 which a lot of people called it. Peter is always good for an honest rating. When you are as bad ass as he is, no need to sandbag anymore.
BarbieK1211

climber
Marblehead, MA
  Jul 18, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
Awesome photos! My son Brian shared with me and I think you guys are incredible!
BarbieK1211

climber
Marblehead, MA
  Jul 18, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
Sorry I am not a climber but I do sail! :)
bullet head

Mountain climber
CA
  Jul 18, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
I enjoyed TR and pix a lot, especially the summit register pages!
If you are going to mix in one-dimensional political commentary it would serve well to widen your view to appreciate the transhumanist freaks out to exterminate us. Global governance by technocratic elites has been announced: resist or perish. Our left - right paradigm is a cynical trick to keep us out of the game.
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
  Jul 18, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
Sick!


Your killing it!!!




Wes
Les

Trad climber
Bahston
  Jul 19, 2012 - 10:16am PT
Fantastic! Plotting a return to the Sierra next summer, and this climb is definitely on the list!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  Jul 26, 2012 - 08:21pm PT


kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
  Jul 26, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
Great report, Vitaliy!

You must be packing for the Bugs and Slesse. Am looking forward to those TRs. Be safe and have fun.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Jul 26, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
Awesome image cosmic! That is hilarious.

Can't wait for bugs. Should write another TR for first big wall I topped this last weekend. Took some good photos there too. But can't write now, gotta get ready to head for Sierra tomorrow. : )
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Incredible Hulk - Red Dihedral 5.10b - High Sierra, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The route as seen from Maltby Lake.
Photo: Chris McNamara
Other Routes on Incredible Hulk
Incredible Hulk - Positive Vibrations 5.11a - High Sierra, California USA. Click for details.
Positive Vibrations, 5.11a
Incredible Hulk
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The route as seen from the bivy spot.
Incredible Hulk - Sun Spot Dihedral 5.11b - High Sierra, California USA. Click for details.
Sun Spot Dihedral, 5.11b
Incredible Hulk
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The route as seen from the bivy spot.
Incredible Hulk - Falling Dihedral Var. 5.10a - High Sierra, California USA. Click for details.
Falling Dihedral Var., 5.10a
Incredible Hulk
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The route as seen from the bivy spot.