North Buttress, Merriam Peak 5.10b/c

   
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High Sierra, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 4-8 hours
Approach time: 4 hours
Descent time: 5 hours
Number of pitches: 10
Height of route: 1000'
Overview
This route is considered a better quality version of Mt. Goode with similar length and aesthetics. The rock is similar to Keeler Needle: great cracks on grainier rock.


P1- 5.7 up left of a pedestal
P2-5.8/9link this with the previous pitch
P3-9/10- thin fingers and seams than back left and under the double crack system.
P4-8/9 awesome hands to chimney no particualrily wide gear neeeded. This double crack system is obvious from the base.
P5-9break right in a nice hand crack before the crack gets really steep and incipient
P6-8break back left on fist and laybacks to the base of a OW and overhanging hand crack- link this with the previous pitch
P7-10b/c up steep hands to the left of an OW, continue up through a tenious layback then up a wider crack a few wide fist sized pieces help pro.
p8-go around to the right then under a tower/roof feature.
p9-10 continue simuclimbing to the summit
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Climber Beta on North Buttress
  A total of (6) submissions of route beta on North Buttress
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: August 16, 2012
Merriam Peak - North Buttress 5.10b/c - High Sierra, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The prominent North Buttress of Merriam Peak
Photo: Ryan Crochiere
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