North Arete, Matterhorn Peak 5.7

 
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High Sierra, California USA

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Some Random Guy

climber
Jun 29, 2012 - 11:13am
 
yeah moynier and fiddler are all wrong.......as are a lot of the falcon guide descriptions. i think they write all those books from memory of climbs they did 20 years ago.

i quite easily found the start by bringing this pic with me. (credit rhyang) when you go up the east couloir look for the loose ramp with the vertical wall of 5.10ish cracks in the background. the obvious ramp goes up to a notch left of the wall that you can see from in the couloir. hope this helps.......
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Nix

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Jun 16, 2004 - 11:40am
 
Not to plug too hard for SuperTocos but I wish I had this topo when we attempted the North Arete two weekends ago. We were using Moynier's Falcon guide "Climbing California's High Sierra." The route description was a little confusing so we followed the two detailed pictures to the start of the route. Ya right! Dead verticle choss, on an uprotected 100ft leftward traverse, 5.8?, no thanks. A sketchy retreat cost us a nut/beaner/cordollete and two of our nine lives. Some say that a picture is worth a thousand words. In this case it was a thousand expletives. After collecting more beta (ie SuperTopos and the Secor book) it turns out that both Moynier pictures are dead wrong! They send you up the opposite (West) side of the mountain! Ugg...
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dufas

Trad climber
CA/NV
Jun 16, 2004 - 12:22pm
 
N. Arete is a fun romp. Anyone done the double dihedral route? is this good route to have a strong beginner mountaineer follow?
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Jesse Hull

Trad climber
SF, CA
Mar 25, 2008 - 01:16pm
 
Anyone know if you need crampons and an ice axe for this route? We are heading here over July 4th. How much snow should we expected?

Jesse
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drc

Trad climber
Durham, NC
Mar 25, 2008 - 02:07pm
 
I climbed in late June 3 summers ago. Mountaneering boots but no crampons, and just a sharpened stick instead of an axe. The slope on the snowfield is pretty mellow.
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navblk4

climber
Constitutional, states
Mar 27, 2008 - 10:01pm
 
chris,
reads as though you have removed coordinate ambiguity
by adding time.:-) Just a LBand pun.


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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Jun 25, 2007 - 01:24pm
 
i got this feedback from a user:

Degrees and Decimal Minutes, which has a triple diget last number like the coordinates in the book. I typed in these waypoints on a national geographic topo program and after reading the description and looking at where the program plotted the points they do make sense and most look correct. The only waypoint that looks way off is the Base of Route coordinate. Also the coordinates that are written in the book are written as degrees minutes seconds and the coordinates are actually degrees decimal minutes.

yes,
 the BASE route coordinate is totally wrong. ignore it.
 i need to fix the way i describe the coordinate (see above)
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navblk4

climber
Constitutional, states
Mar 27, 2008 - 10:20pm
 
Updated: See bottom section before adding post here.

/*Disclaimer:
Date of Beta (Summer 1976) from 2008 human memory.
This was part of a 10 day trip with my cousins.*/

Jesse, 9 days before reaching the final Matterhorn approach
which I believe is approximately 12,000' at the top of Sheeps
Pass(?) we received approximately 6 inches of snow prior
to reaching Benson lake. At Smedburg lake (to me 1 of the most
buetiful in the Sierra's) in the middle of August there was 4"
5-6 days later. My claim about the lake includes all lakes
visited when I completed the Muir Trail in 1 trip 4 years
later.

The other post sounds as though they did an alleged class 2
(not class 5) we were going to do if time allowed which it
did not. I'm still not certain if this is the same Matterhorn
on the South East end of the Sawtooth Ridge shown below.

I believe these maybe the Sawtooth Ridge in the background.
< Link > Matterhorn however may not be visible unless it's 1
of the final small peaks to the left of the glacier. The approach
is on the opposite side of that glacier.

I maybe interested in doing the route. Email me if you need
further beta (highly recommended also with the guidebook) as
the approach and descent times here could be misleading if
calculating round trip time back to the trailhead just pass
Twin Lakes shown above. Crampons, Ice Axe are probably not
needed though should be considered depending..

Update confirmation for 1976 beta.

May not be the 5.7
< Link >

Camelot(s) for replacement of ice axe and crampons?

Looks like the 5.7
< Link >


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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
May 13, 2008 - 02:51pm
 
cool photo trip report

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=594724
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navblk4

climber
Constitutional, states
May 14, 2008 - 10:20pm
 
Chris thanks. Cool it is and I would not recommend
the 5'th class until later summer lacking ice equipment.
From 1976-1981 this was the norm. In 1982 it became dry.

I'm also looking at a Hulk route in the vicinity.
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 21, 2008 - 10:27am
 
Here is another trip report with photos

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=658617
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clustiere

Trad climber
berkeley ca
Aug 21, 2008 - 02:40pm
 
I have heard that the double dihedral is quite good if not better.
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schaffner

Trad climber
Jan 7, 2011 - 05:55pm
 
Does anybody have information on how this climb would be in January?

Edit: We climbed the E couloir on January 16th with crampons (almost not necessary). The N Arete looked mostly clear of snow and it was pretty warm (like 40+ F), it probably would have been possible to climb it.
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Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Jan 7, 2011 - 08:42pm
 
I did it in January years ago. Or rather I climbed the NE couloir, to the right of the rock.

It was Butt Cold! The Bridgeport valley is often the coldest spot in California. We skied up (check the avy forecast) and had to keep taking our boots off to warm up our feet on each others' bellies.

Snow climbing the gully was plenty exciting. I would think the Arete would be basically too cold to free climb in January.
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Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jun 26, 2012 - 05:49pm
 
Does one need crampons to approach the route at the moment?
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Scoop

Mountain climber
Truckee, CA
Jun 26, 2012 - 09:08pm
 
Maybe I am an idiot, but I tried three ways and could not for the life of me find the start to this route. Whatever way I went -- and there are not a lot of choices in the gully -- it was sure as heck was harder than 5.7.
Just sayin'
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timbok

Trad climber
oakland ca
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   Jul 20, 2013 - 01:37am
Climbed two days ago. Snow towards the top approach had warmed by the time sun hit it (around 8ish) and fine in approach shoes.

As others have said, plenty of loose rock towards the bottom and not much exposure. At the top of the 4th or so pitch we moved right on the big ledge to climb the last two pitches of the Double Dihedral route, which we thought were better than anything on the north arete. The top dihedral pitch was great, with great stemming and mantle moves. We didn't use any wide gear, just small offset nuts and hand size cams.

Great to climb part of a route without a detailed topo to rely on...!
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Stevee B

Trad climber
Oakland, CA
Jun 30, 2014 - 04:36pm
 
Climbed 6/28/14. Some firm snow in sections still, depending on weather. Humping crampons and an axe may be less arduous than trying to link the dry boulders and weaving the talus and scree. Descending from E. Couloir required hugging the base and some ledgy loose 4th classing to avoid the snow.

Saw two pairs of shiny bolts & rings, one below and to the left of the top of pitch 3, and another out to the left of the top of pitch 4. Anyone know the story? My guess is they were for a rescue or recovery.
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Matterhorn Peak - North Arete 5.7 - High Sierra, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The route as seen from the approach.
Photo: Brad Goya
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