Some Random Guy
climber
Under a Little Pink Umbrella
|
 |
yeah moynier and fiddler are all wrong.......as are a lot of the falcon guide descriptions. i think they write all those books from memory of climbs they did 20 years ago.
i quite easily found the start by bringing this pic with me. (credit rhyang) when you go up the east couloir look for the loose ramp with the vertical wall of 5.10ish cracks in the background. the obvious ramp goes up to a notch left of the wall that you can see from in the couloir. hope this helps.......
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
Scoop
Mountain climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
Maybe I am an idiot, but I tried three ways and could not for the life of me find the start to this route. Whatever way I went -- and there are not a lot of choices in the gully -- it was sure as heck was harder than 5.7.
Just sayin'
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Does one need crampons to approach the route at the moment?
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
I did it in January years ago. Or rather I climbed the NE couloir, to the right of the rock.
It was Butt Cold! The Bridgeport valley is often the coldest spot in California. We skied up (check the avy forecast) and had to keep taking our boots off to warm up our feet on each others' bellies.
Snow climbing the gully was plenty exciting. I would think the Arete would be basically too cold to free climb in January.
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
schaffner
Trad climber
|
|
Does anybody have information on how this climb would be in January?
Edit: We climbed the E couloir on January 16th with crampons (almost not necessary). The N Arete looked mostly clear of snow and it was pretty warm (like 40+ F), it probably would have been possible to climb it.
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
|
|
I have heard that the double dihedral is quite good if not better.
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
navblk4
climber
Constitutional, states
|
|
Chris thanks. Cool it is and I would not recommend
the 5'th class until later summer lacking ice equipment.
From 1976-1981 this was the norm. In 1982 it became dry.
I'm also looking at a Hulk route in the vicinity.
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
navblk4
climber
Constitutional, states
|
|
Updated: See bottom section before adding post here.
/*Disclaimer:
Date of Beta (Summer 1976) from 2008 human memory.
This was part of a 10 day trip with my cousins.*/
Jesse, 9 days before reaching the final Matterhorn approach
which I believe is approximately 12,000' at the top of Sheeps
Pass(?) we received approximately 6 inches of snow prior
to reaching Benson lake. At Smedburg lake (to me 1 of the most
buetiful in the Sierra's) in the middle of August there was 4"
5-6 days later. My claim about the lake includes all lakes
visited when I completed the Muir Trail in 1 trip 4 years
later.
The other post sounds as though they did an alleged class 2
(not class 5) we were going to do if time allowed which it
did not. I'm still not certain if this is the same Matterhorn
on the South East end of the Sawtooth Ridge shown below.
I believe these maybe the Sawtooth Ridge in the background.
< Link > Matterhorn however may not be visible unless it's 1
of the final small peaks to the left of the glacier. The approach
is on the opposite side of that glacier.
I maybe interested in doing the route. Email me if you need
further beta (highly recommended also with the guidebook) as
the approach and descent times here could be misleading if
calculating round trip time back to the trailhead just pass
Twin Lakes shown above. Crampons, Ice Axe are probably not
needed though should be considered depending..
Update confirmation for 1976 beta.
May not be the 5.7
< Link >
Camelot(s) for replacement of ice axe and crampons?
Looks like the 5.7
< Link >
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
navblk4
climber
Constitutional, states
|
|
chris,
reads as though you have removed coordinate ambiguity
by adding time.:-) Just a LBand pun.
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
drc
Trad climber
Durham, NC
|
|
I climbed in late June 3 summers ago. Mountaneering boots but no crampons, and just a sharpened stick instead of an axe. The slope on the snowfield is pretty mellow.
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
Jesse Hull
Trad climber
SF, CA
|
|
Anyone know if you need crampons and an ice axe for this route? We are heading here over July 4th. How much snow should we expected?
Jesse
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
dufas
Trad climber
CA/NV
|
|
N. Arete is a fun romp. Anyone done the double dihedral route? is this good route to have a strong beginner mountaineer follow?
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
Nix
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
Not to plug too hard for SuperTocos but I wish I had this topo when we attempted the North Arete two weekends ago. We were using Moynier's Falcon guide "Climbing California's High Sierra." The route description was a little confusing so we followed the two detailed pictures to the start of the route. Ya right! Dead verticle choss, on an uprotected 100ft leftward traverse, 5.8?, no thanks. A sketchy retreat cost us a nut/beaner/cordollete and two of our nine lives. Some say that a picture is worth a thousand words. In this case it was a thousand expletives. After collecting more beta (ie SuperTopos and the Secor book) it turns out that both Moynier pictures are dead wrong! They send you up the opposite (West) side of the mountain! Ugg...
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
|
|
The route as seen from the approach.Photo: Brad Goya
|
the BASE route coordinate is totally wrong. ignore it. 