North Arete, Matterhorn Peak 5.7

   
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High Sierra, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 3-6 hours
Approach time: 4-7 hours
Descent time: 4-7 hours
Number of pitches: 6
Height of route: 700'
Overview
The North ArÍte offers relatively moderate and adventurous climbing for those who don't mind a massive approach. After a few pitches of loose rock, the climbing is pretty good for four pitches. It's not the best climbing in the High Sierra, but appeals because it is not too difficult and ascends a striking arÍte on a big and aesthetic peak. It's one of the easier climbs that gives a complete alpine rock experience: a glacier, striking summit, incredible views--all at high elevation. After the first few unpleasant pitches, the routefinding and rock quality gets better and better. This route is a slight step up in difficulty from the East Face of Mt. Whitney.
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Climber Beta on North Arete
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: July 19, 2013
Matterhorn Peak - North Arete 5.7 - High Sierra, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The route as seen from the approach.
Photo: Brad Goya
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