Eagle Creek Canyon ice TR

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rhyang

Ice climber
SJC
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 21, 2007 - 08:57am PT
My buddy KC only had a day this weekend to spare, so we went up yesterday to see how the ice near Eagle Lake in south Tahoe had shaped up after the arctic air. Another buddy who lives in Gardnerville (you know who you are :) had reported that Devils Coat Tails (WI4-5) had almost touched down Thursday but fell down on Friday.

On the way we saw a big column of ice on the East Wall of Lovers Leap


The trail to Eagle Lake was well-packed, and the lake itself seemed pretty well frozen. Nobody had even bothered to walk around the south shore.


We headed up the inlet of the lake, on the way to Sunny Falls. The north-facing south cliffs of the canyon seemed to have some good climbs, including this one which was being gang-toproped.




Sunny Falls itself of course was in the sun in the morning.


I was not one to deprive KC of the fun of leading, and anyway I'd had a flu earlier in the week and wasn't feeling that strong. He led a few lines and I followed.




The ice looked like it might be kind of nasty, but was actually quite good and solid. In some places it did drip a bit though. High hazy clouds dulled the sun's exposure, and as the day went on, the sun's angle changed so that our climbs were now in the shade.

A couple of guys with big nice dogs showed up to TR a mixed line to the left of us, and told us that the climb we saw being toproped was called Cutty Sark and rated WI4+. I'm not sure about this though - according to this source, Cutty Sark actually forms near Echo Lakes (?)

We headed back down to look at the climb we'd seen earlier, since it was now unoccupied. Turns out KC had toproped this years before and it was his dream to lead this thing. So he did.


The bottom part was a pretty solid free-standing pillar. A rock undercling, some stemming and pumpy climbing led to what seemed like WI4. KC headed up a chimney that contained some pretty solid ice, then traversed back left.



The climb was about 100' and well hacked out, as you might expect (lots of hooks). At the top were two bolts.

There were a few other climbs that looked to be in on this wall, but we decided to get a lap in each on toprope on this one after climbing it. Hiked out by headlamp and booked to SLT.

We joked in the car that we would have gone and done Widow's Tears on Thursday except that the prior party had probably gone and hacked it up already :) :) :)
cultureshock

Big Wall climber
Wall Climber Wannabe
Jan 21, 2007 - 11:53am PT
Great TR!!

Yah for pictures!
David Nelson

climber
San Francisco
Jan 21, 2007 - 02:42pm PT
Thrilling photos! I showed them to my daughter (I took a short break from working on her 9th grade homework problem: the similarities and differencest between Romeo & Juliet and West Side Story), and she thought it was pretty scary.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jan 21, 2007 - 04:05pm PT
Now that's adventure!!
clustiere

Trad climber
Durango, CO
Jan 21, 2007 - 04:23pm PT
Great to see, now I will bring my tools to San Francisco
10b4me

Trad climber
California
Jan 21, 2007 - 07:11pm PT
Hey Rob,
thanks for the climbing tr. those climbs look like fun.
climblight

Mountain climber
Northern NV
Jan 21, 2007 - 08:08pm PT
The s cyn climbs look nice. Shoulda gone there instead of pissing around the mayhem cove and eagle falls.
atchafalaya

Trad climber
California
Jan 22, 2007 - 09:31am PT
sweet tr rhyang. We also were out checking out Tahoe ice this weekend. It was phat...
code red

code red and candle spooge



code blue


Sport ice park


Rainbow was huge, Donner Nordwand huge, Indian Springs (wtf?!?!) huge....
fattrad

Mountain climber
GOP Convention
Jan 22, 2007 - 09:58am PT
Nice TR Rob, you're becoming an ice master.


Jody's evil twin.
rhyang

Ice climber
SJC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2007 - 09:59am PT
Sweet ! Indian Springs ice ?! Actually I'm not surprised. Bridalveil on US50 (~3000' ?) looked like it probably had quite a bit of ice on it last week, though by the time we passed it there was running water down the center.

Jeff - no ice master am I, master Yoda. KC and climblight are true Sith Lords :)
Dragger

Mountain climber
Bay Area, CA
Jan 22, 2007 - 10:27am PT
Yea Rob! *jealous*jealous*jealous*jealous* ;^)
rhyang

Ice climber
SJC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2007 - 10:53am PT
hey Carolyn - KC mentioned to me that he was in Utah a couple weeks ago and climbed in Little Cottonwood Canyon. He said Miller's Thriller (should be on SP) and [something else I forgot the name of] were pretty good. Ya need to persuade Craig to go to Ouray or something :)
Shano

Social climber
Pacific Beach, CA
Jan 22, 2007 - 01:03pm PT
wow that beats my weekend. Cant wait to get a whack at some ice soon. Nice job Rob
-shano
Dragger

Mountain climber
Bay Area, CA
Jan 22, 2007 - 01:50pm PT
Ya, I know! We've been so busy moving, working on the house, etc... trying to get all settled by the time spring rolls around. Things should be together in about a month but that doesn't leave much room for ice climbing this year. ::::^( On a brighter note, base camp is lookin' SWEET! ;^)

Edit: Hi Shano!!
atchafalaya

Trad climber
California
Jan 22, 2007 - 02:34pm PT
one more...
rhyang

Ice climber
SJC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2007 - 02:38pm PT
Very nice !

hey Shano, whassup ! Carolyn, you would rather go to Home Despot than go ice climbing ?! Priorities ... heeheehee, hope the new Chateau de DOA is coming along nicely :)
Standing Strong

Ice climber
still decidering
Jan 22, 2007 - 02:44pm PT
ze new chateau de doa IS gorgeous - high ceilings and beautiful hardwood floors for sliding on in wool socks :) and you should see where they're doing the climbing wall. awesome! C$ i'm so happy we're nearer to eachother now! can't wait til the days get longer

p.s. i was serious about those rhinestones!
Dragger

Mountain climber
Bay Area, CA
Jan 22, 2007 - 03:28pm PT
"Carolyn, you would rather go to Home Despot than go ice climbing ?!"

Of course not! But when duty calls, duty calls. And having a comfy base camp, complete with a 22ft high left dihedral climbing wall in the dining room, is pretty darned cool! (Not that it's built yet...) I just owe all that nice ice out there a raincheck...er, I mean, ice check! :^D

Yah, SS -- You is gunna bust yer butt this spring. Hee hee! I'm bringin my WHIP! 8^0
Standing Strong

Ice climber
still decidering
Jan 22, 2007 - 03:35pm PT
word. can't wait :)
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jan 22, 2007 - 05:23pm PT
Thanks for the TR and pics. Looks like fun
Zander
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