Corrugation Corner, Lover's Leap, Main Wall 5.7
Avg time to climb route: 4 hours
Approach time: 25 minutes
Descent time: 30 minutes
Number of pitches: 3
Height of route: 500'
OverviewFrom a distance, Corrugation Corner deceivingly appears a low-angle weakness in the awesomely steep Main Wall. In reality, this is one of the steepest climbs in this guide and one of the steepest granite 5.7’s you will find anywhere. Instead of following the main corner, the route often pushed you out on a horrendously exposed arête. It is here that you will appreciate that “5.7” may accurately describe the technical difficulty of the moves, however, psychologically the moves feel like 5.10. Royal Robbins had this to say about the climb, “… the Corner still rates first place because of its magnificence as a corner: both from a distance and close up it is an elegant piece of rock architecture.” This may be the best climb at Lover’s Leap and it has the crowds to prove it. Approach the climb early and prepare yourself to wait behind slower climbers. There are a few variations throughout but unfortunately they do not help pass slower climbers.
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HistoryFA: Kurt Edsburg, et al, early 1960s.
StrategyThe pitch warms you up with sustained 5.6 stemming, a bulge, and then a fun hand traverse right. Miss the hand traverse and you’re in 5.9 offwidth terrain.
The second pitch is one of the steepest and most intimidating 5.7 pitches anywhere. A stemming corner leads to a hollow flake traverse left to a terrifying, but well-protected arête. At first glan... [full history for SuperTopo members only!]
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