pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2010 - 10:50pm PT
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okay ken Boche!
lets clean up your route!
thank's maybe you can identify these bolts as yours...if not then we will erase them..to give credit and restore the f.A!
R.M.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Feb 19, 2010 - 02:46am PT
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Pyro:
I got an email from Don Lauria who said that he didn’t remember any bolts from the F.A.
On thinking about the F.A., I don’t remember placing bolts anywhere at Stoney. Furthermore, I didn’t name the route, “Boche Death Route.” As I recall, the name was created by my friends to describe the consequence of taking a fall from high up on the route, so I think the original route never had any bolts in it.
If I had placed any bolts, they’d have been ¼” X 1” Rawl Drives with Leeper hangers such as shown in the pic below.
Even if the bolts are removed, if they are used for aid, the climb could still be done if the holes are usable with “hooks” such as the custom ones pictured below that were made by Dennis Hennek.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 19, 2010 - 08:15am PT
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Bo.... so let me get this straight. TBDR was done originally on tied off pins?
friggen wild. Two of my friends, Hank Lavene and Fred Lytle (sp?) nailed that sucker in 1973 in preparation for the second accent of "Moses" in Utah. Scared the heck out of them... that ratty rock at Stoney.
One time we were hanging out at the "Oliver Moon Hotel", around midnight, somebody suggested we go and do the bolt ladder at SP by moonlight. We gathered the gear and in no time we were at the start of the climb. After a hanging party at the belay bolts, I was given the task of leading the last part.... when I hit the summit and went to go clip the anchors I interrupted a loving couple who were sharing a private moment at the time. "Sorry, excuse me, I need to clip those bolts so my friends can get up here" ..... she had nice ones too. :>)
So much has gone down at Stoney, it's quite a place to climb at.
Any more stories are welcome.
Guy Keesee
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Feb 19, 2010 - 12:11pm PT
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Yes, Guy; that's the best Don Lauria (who did the second ascent) & I can remember, and it makes sense, given the name that grew up around the route.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Feb 19, 2010 - 12:18pm PT
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I've been wondering about a couple of wino characters that frequented SP during the early sixties: One's name was Phil Mesch (sp?); I can't remember the other's. They were actually pretty good climbers on their favorite routes, and they always drank cheap Ripple wine and bragged about how much better their climbing got as an afternoon and their drunkeness progressed. Have there been any postings about them? They always added a lot of color and laughter to our "more serious" approach to climbing. VERY entertaining! Anyone have any pix of them?
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Feb 19, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
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I have bouldered more at Stoney Point than any living person.
Sad but true.
Juan
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 19, 2010 - 02:17pm PT
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Juan,
Only if you're older than me.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2010 - 08:25pm PT
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Boche
i've already started to annotate my guide books as the "boche death route". i've pondered about nailing that thing for some time, but it goes free! my next question is do we keep a bolt to protect the next victim....i'll start by top roping it first.
guyman
you said "Hank Lavene and Fred Lytle (sp?) nailed that sucker in 1973".
how bad azz!
later,
R.M.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Feb 19, 2010 - 09:19pm PT
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If the FFA was led with the protection of a bolt, perhaps its OK to leave a bolt in to retain the character of the FFA.
Aid pins have the "It should slow me down" aspect...
I may not be the best one to decide this. Thanks for asking...
But I do like the idea of retaining the character of the commitment & confidence it takes to make the lead where there are serious consequences if the leader falls.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2010 - 12:14am PT
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boulderkitty
Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
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Feb 20, 2010 - 09:34pm PT
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even though the rock was too wet to climb it was still a gorgeous day out at Stoney today!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2010 - 09:38pm PT
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just some Kool temps for today!
have fun!
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Feb 23, 2010 - 11:53pm PT
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Stellar picture, BoulderKitty!
Thanks for your photos and the update and your editing of the BDR, Pyro. Made wish I could have disapparated there for this afternoon's workout.
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Feb 24, 2010 - 07:04am PT
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Pyro, that don't look like no boot flake to me.
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somethingurnot
Social climber
the Pink Dildo
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Feb 24, 2010 - 08:45am PT
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hey pyro this thread just gets richer and richer with stoner point climbers history.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2010 - 11:53am PT
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oldtopangalizard
Social climber
ca
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Feb 24, 2010 - 02:20pm PT
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Occasionally bored and dumb can lead to a good time. Or, if nothing else, a few good yuks.
I lived in the canyon for years, so it was a good 30+ minute drive to get to Stoney. So one lazy Saturday, probably late 1977, during a torrential rainstorm we decided to put down ours beers and hit the rock. We were not too motivated, so we decided to bring more beer than gear. So my fellow droog and I loaded up the beer, the gear, and other whatnots and at the last minute decided to throw in the etriers.
By the time we got to Stoney, our excitement had diminished to the point of complete dereliction. The rain had increased quite a bit, so that didn't help. Not wanting to waste the aforementioned beer we figured we best work up a plan. Like I said, we were a lazy lot, so we hit the Jesus Wall and pulled out the trees. We aided our way half way up, parked it on one of the bolts and pulled out the beer. Thinking back, I hope we would have clipped a few of those old rusty dogs.
We hung there drinking beer for a least an hour, I have no idea what the commuters must have thought. What I don't remember is how we left. Did we go up, did we go down? I have no idea. Surprisingly, no one bothered us or even stopped at the park. I imagine today the cops would be all over that.
Ah to be young, dumb and bored.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2010 - 08:51am PT
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Old Topanga lizard thanks!
that old aid line was sure fun. I've practiced rope solo-techniques quite a bit on that thing.
Boche~the photo's will continue! maybe someday we all could get together for the perfect photo on the summit boulder and boulder one. Cole would love that pic for his documentry!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Feb 25, 2010 - 09:33am PT
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This is still my favorite Stoney pic.
Sometime if I get time I'll have to describe my early adventures out at Stoney with two fierce, late, great rock warriors - Billy Westbay, and John Bachar, circa 1975, when both guys were at their peak. Some incredible stuff, and scary.
Stoney has more history than just about any place I can imagine. If those boulders could talk!
JL
PS: Per folks back channeling me about the pic below, I believe it's from around 1978, when Yabo and I first worked out the moves on Yabo Arete and a bunch of other stuff during that time - there was intense bouldering activity there for a few years, a sort of jump up in intensity that Stoney goes through here and there.
I think this Yabo Aret pic was around the time I got my first pair of Fires, by driving up to Ventura and paying cash to Bachar. Bachar and Graham imported the boots for a while in the late 70s, early 80s.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Feb 25, 2010 - 09:40am PT
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So I hope the bad bolts are still on the main wall bolt ladder.
Thats what made it fun. Really.
Juan
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