Trip Report
Stoney Point Bouldering

by mfsb
Tuesday March 25, 2014 5:15pm
After climbing and bouldering in Central Oregon (see previous trip report) for a year (2006), I followed Hosh Miagi to his home in LA for about a month in 2007. While there, we settled in to the Herculean task of a 'one day off/one day on' bouldering lifestyle. Exhausting. But fun. AND it enabled me to be introduced to the highway sided climbing mecca that is Stoney Point!

Here is the preview video aka 'the end of season one/season two teaser' which features Hosh attempting, and then sticking, Leaping Lizards (V3) on Boulder 1. Nice catch!

After the trip was over, we hightailed it back north to our hometown in Central Oregon and put together the new season of FCMM - thats right comrades - Season Two: Stoney Point!

Episode One "Keeping It Smooth" is an homage to our FAVORITE THING (at the time), namely, Yacht Rock (which you can find at Channel 101 and Youtube - genius! This video features footage from Boulder 1 (and the rocks behind it) and Turlock.

Episode Two "Shelter" features the HC band of the same name (a long time fav of the FCMM crew). Watch as Hosh owns the classic Three Pigs (V0) on Boulder 1 before we head to the backside for a sloping low traverse. Anyone know what it is?!?

Episode Three "Hosh Miagi" focuses -duh- on Hosh as he takes a HUGE fall off the lip of Crowd Pleaser (V2) on Turlock. Intercut with him working Leaping Lizards (V3) on Boulder 1.

Episode Four "Rain" finds us getting the send as the drizzle drizzles - out on the backside on that unnamed low sloping traverse problem - anyone know this one?!?

Episode Six "Move It" has MFSB -yours truly- hunting out a problem W-A-Y out past the train tracks (is there anything actually established out there?!?) before heading over to Turlock for a short traverse and then ending on Maggie's Traverse (V1) up in Nabisco Canyon.

Episode Seven "Chess" is amalgamated out of all the above footage but focuses on the philosophy I have about climbing - agree? Disagree? Make friends. Go climb. Enjoy your life.

Episode Eight "The Grand Traverse" shows the entire Maggie's Traverse (V1) from Nabisco Canyon. At first the struggle to get this in one go was HUGE! Then it became the warmup problem, then it became the lap problem, then it became the do it reverse problem, then the 'up-and-back' loop problem. Where will it go from here?!?

Hope you enjoy seeing some of your favorite Stoney-isms! Thanks for watching. I look forward to seeing your videos and footage soon - cheers!

  Trip Report Views: 1,919
About the Author
Make friends. Go climb. Enjoy your life.

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Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
  Mar 25, 2014 - 06:04pm PT
Thanks - I need to get out to Stoney!

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Mar 25, 2014 - 06:36pm PT
I nominate this for trip report of the year, a truly outstanding achievement in cinema.

Unlike anything you have ever witnessed on the big screen or small screen.

“this truly captures the moment – the scope and breath- of one of the USAs best climbing destinations”

Thank You

Credit: guyman

Author's Reply  Mar 26, 2014 - 03:01pm PT
@guyman - thanks for the kind words and glad you enjoyed it
keep going onward and upward!!!

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Mar 27, 2014 - 01:27pm PT
Impressive TR! Thanks for the effort to post all that.

Big Wall climber
  Mar 28, 2014 - 01:14am PT
Credit: pyro
thanks for visiting!
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
  Mar 28, 2014 - 02:53am PT
Great as always. The low/ (high) tech stuff I first saw in videos like The Real Thing with Moon, Moffatt and Kurt Albert etc.
It made a big impression on me.

Author's Reply  Apr 22, 2014 - 11:05pm PT
Thanks for all the messages and kind words!
Oh, and the video above, awsum!
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