OLD AID LINE REMOVED from STONEY POINT

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Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 23, 2009 - 12:57am PT
Will the person who removed the old aid line at Stoney point please put it back.
word on the street is that old aid line was first put up by Glen Dawson.
it's been a couple of weeks since I'd seen those missing bolts!





pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2009 - 11:21am PT
Be nice Cosmo. If Juan did then maybe he should tell all.

All that I know is that some dude was up on that thing a few sundays ago pull'n bolts and drill'n holes.
no new bolts?

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2009 - 01:42am PT
juan could do it, but hopefully he completes his Bolting project.
nature

climber
Whereverland....
Aug 18, 2010 - 12:49pm PT
Weld_it, you don't really need to practice aid climbing. it's really not that difficult to figure out.

just go jump on the big stone and start going up. it'll work its way out.


Try and easy line though..... like The Trip or
































Wings of Steel
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Aug 18, 2010 - 01:06pm PT
Steve Grossman has been double-dared on the Wings-thing. Rumor has it... he just may take the bait. No tried and true hard-man turns down a double dare. I've got my bells on.



Edit to add: With the Stony thing. a) Sheesh- why would anyone bother? and b) Did anyone even use them or were they just historical relics? c)Re-drill sounds like they might go back at some point. Give it some time.
Tfish

Sport climber
La Crescenta, CA
Aug 18, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
Yeah, it's back and its all legit. It's got fresh bolts and a belay station mid way. All you need is draws and 2 rivit hangers, or 2 short dyneema slings for the thick stud and the hook. Check out the other thread for some pics -http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=971616&msg=1244867#msg1244867
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Aug 18, 2010 - 06:02pm PT
Fattrad: I know... I was just wondering if anyone had done it since then :)

Sounds like the bolts are back anyhow. Stony Point is the premier aid climbing destination as you well know ;) Wouldn't want to spoil it for the hoards of aspiring big-wall climbers lining up to get on that thing now would we? I think they should start doing the permit-thing to reduce the impact on the fragile ancient graffiti.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Aug 18, 2010 - 06:06pm PT
1976??? Is that WOS? Dang I hassled some guys in the 80's I think it was that I THOUGHT was doing the 1st ascent of THAT route!! YIKES.
Peace
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Aug 18, 2010 - 06:18pm PT
I am saving up bolts, hangers, drill bits and plastic holds for the FA of a SuperDirect rap-bolted gym route on the WOS Apron so don't anyone get in my way!

The plan is to do Horse Chute to a point that I have laser-marked at the apex of the Apron. Then, with the assistance of a laser-enabled ground crew, I will rap down an absolute plumb line placing bolts every 12-15 feet and glue on plastic jugs in between. Once I have established the line I will do a ground-up ascent.

This should lead to the mother of all thread controversies!!!

By the way, how do you see missing bolts?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2010 - 06:35pm PT
old aid line was something to rave about if you led it BITD, but it's been restored. i still don't know who removed those "missing bolts" but maybe someday we will.

"Justplastictrad" you guys are not Kool!



justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Aug 18, 2010 - 07:46pm PT
The Hall Monitor just told you you aren't "kool" Ihateplastic. I'm sure you will rue the day. Doesn't really matter who did it any more... unless you are the type of guy who really really needs to send out self-righteous messages to people you disagree with.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2010 - 09:05pm PT
FYI: that old aid line has been replaced.
Maybe i'll see you on it!
However, If i'd recieved the original hangers then maybe we could replace the hangers out to keep it's original value.


oh well!
enjoy!
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Aug 19, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
Pyro... Am I to believe that the current wave of "whatever" is not cool?

I thought rap bolting was now acceptable and ground up is no longer a necessity. Bolts next to cracks and chipped holds are only an indication of the direction climbing is going.

I was sure we had abandoned the ethics of yesterday in favor of the bravado of today.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
SoCal
Aug 19, 2010 - 03:39pm PT
I ran into the enthusiastic young dudes who rebolted the line. Don't know their names or if they are here in this forum. They feel they are helping out and being cool and stuff. I understand.

I kinda liked the old manky 1/2 inch bolt with home made hangers, missing hangers, and the sandstone eroding away around them. Made for a fun A0+ climb.

Don't know if it's still there but there was a line of hangerless, rusty, 1/4 inch bolts going up the middle of the left wall, right through the potholes lower down and stuff. I bought 20 SMC bolt hangers and went to climb it in about 1989 but got up a little ways and chickened out.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2010 - 12:18pm PT
Spiderman!
that old aid line was fun! i had the urge to aid up it once or twice a year, however the problem occured when i went to go do it and somebody had remove everything. i was shocked,but also happy that a new aid line was going to be in place. i waited for those guys to replace and after a year or so the Stoney group gave me the okay to replace it! hope you like it. i've seen three parties on it so far and have had nothing but positive feedback.
if you see anything wrong with it then bring it to my attention. feedback is always good, also the other discreet aid line that you mention is good until you run into the giant bee's nest half way up and that's when i bailed from it.
peace!

thread below is the Stoney thread which discussed the problem with that old-aid line.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=971616&tn=240
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Aug 21, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
Sure- What the hell. I'll get on it now that the death bolts placed in that clumping cat- litter during the Nixon-era are gone. You gonna give me an aid lesson Medusa? I forget how those jumar-thingys go.
Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic
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