BOLT REPLACEMENT TR (Fear No Evil 5.9R) @ the Leap


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Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Sep 23, 2009 - 12:39am PT
Okay, I get it, thanks guys.

So they seized the rock by forced wedging then. So I suppose they were just easier to place than the sleeve types (which bitd I used in constr) that required larger diameter hole, more effort.

Any good link to a diagram showing this "5-piece" fastener I read about in some thread a few days ago? which is becoming the std apparently.

EDIT Thanks Greg.

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2009 - 12:40am PT
I placed a new 1/4 inch button head of mine next to the ones I pulled for a scale.

All of that stuff at the leap is early 80's-90's 1/4 inch split shaft compression bolts. The threaded split shafts with the hex nuts are tough sometimes when you wedge the bolt out the force tends to break the threads, thus leaving you with a stud. This happened at the 2nd belay. So a patch and new placement are necessary.

Greg, I thought that was a 5/16 but have never dealt with them, That button head I left was solid with no corrosion or rust, nothing, nada.

Good times!

Mark- Thanks again man, very sorry about the airmail, took my eyes off the cluster for one minute and DOH! I owe you a beer my friend!
Greg Barnes

Sep 23, 2009 - 12:43am PT
Footloose, the former Rawl 5-piece is now called the Power-Bolt:

edit: and it has been the standard bolt for sport routes in the US since sport climbing started in the late '80s. Unfortunately, nearly all the early ones were carbon steel, not stainless, so they are rusting away. Luckily most of the climbing areas in the western US are pretty dry, so they don't rust too fast...

Big Wall climber
Sep 23, 2009 - 12:53am PT
nice work on helping to preserve our climbing future!

Trad climber
Davis, CA
Sep 23, 2009 - 12:53am PT
Thanks for the bomber bolts.

Social climber
misreading rock everywhere
Sep 23, 2009 - 01:07am PT
Mason, there is no question, your picture is East Corner. Thats the point where you choose .9 straight up to the huge ledge, or .7 right along a small crack.
mark miller

Social climber
Sep 23, 2009 - 01:10am PT
Hey Mucci I'll take that beer next time we stumble across each other on the steep.....I'll buy the next round.

Trad climber
Sep 23, 2009 - 01:20am PT
Nice work.

Trad climber
East Bay, CA
Sep 23, 2009 - 10:49am PT
Yes, 1st pitch of East Corner is what I climbed. Just wondering about the Pin/Piton/whatever it was. I've never seen one like it before.

Thanks for the info.

Now I want to go out there and check out Mucci's handiwork. There seemed like a lot of fun climbs on the East Wall.

Trad climber
Sep 23, 2009 - 10:58am PT
Way to go!

Sep 23, 2009 - 11:30am PT

There be only 1 god sayeth thy lord.
Do you think the above statement is applicable to a man and or
a woman or both? Could there be more than 1 god with this

Read about the Star of David here.

GB for some reason I trust. CTA bolts were allegedly replaced just
a couple years ago, and I don't don't know what point they are
getting at in that rap route thread(photos||videos?). BBDC is a
possible candidate for pre-inspection rapping, the other I need to

Cheers and peace.

Trad climber
Sep 23, 2009 - 11:35am PT
Three cheers for Mucci! Way to go!

Sep 23, 2009 - 12:13pm PT
Thanks for upgrading the bolts, I always wanted to do that route after doing fantasia. Nice work.

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
Sep 23, 2009 - 12:16pm PT
An engrossing report and thread. Thanks for your work.

Sep 23, 2009 - 12:41pm PT
Thanks for doing this, Mucci; this excellent route deserves it!

Nothing in life is to be feared. It is only to be understood.
-Marie Curie

Social climber
The Deli
Sep 23, 2009 - 12:51pm PT
Ahhhhhh… You are using wedge bolts!!! Ahhhhhh!!!!!!!!

Please, no!!!! They cannot be pulled for replacement!

No more wedge bolts!!!!!!

Sep 23, 2009 - 01:30pm PT

The 1/4 inchers would only be temporary...Bad stance want to drill fast.

Ray-j = TROLL


?? They can be pulled, but they'll need to be replaced with something with a bigger diameter.

Greg Barnes

Sep 23, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
kev, I use 1/4" all the time for temporary bolts, but always with stainless SMCs (or other reliable hangers). I'd never use the old thin even for temp bolts - I wouldn't trust them to hold even body weight if you get a bad one.

Minerals isn't talking about the 1/4" - he's talking about the new 3/8" bolts, which are called stud bolts, wedge bolts, etc. They won't be able to be removed in the future when they deteriorate. The ASCA stopped using all stud/wedge type bolts some years ago for that reason. Now we only use removable bolts like 5-piece and Triplex (and glue-in bolts where needed in soft rock).

On the other hand, the new stud bolts will last a good long time considering that mucci used stainless steel, and considering how long little 1/4" compression bolts have lasted. And by the time they deteriorate it might be possible to drill them out.

Sep 23, 2009 - 01:51pm PT

They can be pulled - it's just a big PITA, and I suspect you're need to replace with a 1/2, no?

Greg Barnes

Sep 23, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
kev, nearly every bolt of that sort breaks during pulling. Since stainless is softer, and since it will be a long time before it starts to corrode, you'd expect that most of them would break off in the hole.
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