I've unscrewed old 5-pieces in Owens (maybe 80-100 total?), Pinnacles (about 10-15), Tuolumne (about 10 or so), Josh (about 5?), Red Rocks (about 10), and maybe a few others here and there. Of those, I probably only extracted or drilled through the sleeve on about 10 of them - mostly I was switching Leeper hangers to modern hangers, replacing cold shuts, simply removing the bolt to turn a 3-bolt anchor to a 2-bolt, etc.
For cone spinners - I only saw a handful of those, and they always unscrewed by outward pull plus unscrewing (I often would just clip in with a draw, lean back, and unscrew the bolt).
I have had about 10 just plain snap off when unscrewing, always at the point where the threads start on the bolt core.
When the rust was super bad, I found that the sleeve would disintegrate into fragments, which sometimes jammed the cone so you couldn't funk it out. That's when I discovered that a 36V drill plus a 1/2" bit will just blast through the old bolt - much easier, especially since they were mostly crux bolts that should be 1/2" anyway. Not much use for hand drilling at Pinnacles though. A few times, I used custom sleeve extractors that Mike White made - they worked fine for a bit, then bent/wore out the little catch ears. Bernie & Shaggy used to pound a nail into the sleeve along the split in the sleeve, curling it in, and then using a long hook or needlenose pliers to pull the sleeve.
The worst rust was often on bolts at Owens where other bolts right nearby were in much better shape.
I thought someone (you?) suggested screwing in the correct size lag screw with a hanger, funking out the sleeve, then funking out the cone like normal (after tapping the cone in to disengage from the sleeve of course).
I'm sure some others here have experience and some more (or better) tips. It's a very good topic, since many of us will be replacing more and more rusted 3/8" 5-pieces in the coming years...
Thanks for the solid effort on the bolt replacement. I have climbed this route probably once a year for the last several. Some of the cleanest rock at the leap. Nice route. I looked at the run out bolts as I passed and deemed them old but in good shape! Interesting (read scary) to see how easy they actually came out. Seems pretty clear if one of those potential big falls were to be had, the bolts would have ripped.
I owe you a beer
Good job on the re-bolting Mucci. That routes been in the cross hairs of a few people for re-bolting for the last couple weeks. It's great to see that someone actually beat them to it. It means the local climbing community is aware, able and willing to get out there and upgrade these old routes.
Next time you're thinking of upgrading a route, give me a shout. I can give you a hand, also I have access to a lot of stuff to help get the job done. I also have a sh#t tone of beta for routes at the Leap.
Again, right on for the replacement.
Routes that have gotten new shiny bolts at the leap this year.
Fear No Evil,
and... Hemorrhoids in Flight.
Hey Nate, thanks for posting the links for the Rawl/Powers bolts! Those prices are way better that what we were paying for the non-stainless 3/8Ē x 1 7/8Ē. I didnít bother to search for better prices and just went with the local supplier that George has previously used. Iíve still got a box of Ďem left, but will order from the Internet next time! Thanks!