Most useful Offset Cam sizes?

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Messages 21 - 27 of total 27 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Boise....
Aug 31, 2009 - 08:05pm PT
They're never "necessary".....merely useful & handy.
Anything done with them, I can do without them, guaranteed.
That said, I do like 'em.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Aug 31, 2009 - 09:01pm PT
As the user of two sets of Hybrids and also Master Cam Offsets I can say from my perspective that the only criticism on Nefarious' list of four that has any merit is:

"* The lobes are too hard - they simply don't hold nearly as well in flares, etc. as the Aliens."

Metolius uses a harder allow for there cams and I agree, on a hard rock like Valley granite, that may not be your cup of tea. Work great for me however so I've stopped using the Hybrids altogether.
rhyang

climber
SJC
Oct 21, 2009 - 03:35pm PT
Pazreal -- what did you think of the offset master cams ?
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
Oct 21, 2009 - 03:54pm PT

IME, on trade walls in the valley, the blue-green and green-yellow get placed most. I won't get on a wall without a double set from blue/black to red/yellow.

Been a metolius tcu guy on my small cams forever. But the Mastercams are sh#t, imo. Won't rack them, period. Have replicated the self-retraction on the lobes when edge-loaded, that was all I needed to see. Bad design from a good company.
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Oct 21, 2009 - 03:57pm PT
I don't have any offset master cams, but I have found that the TCU offsets really compliment my alien offsets very well. If one doesn't fit the other will. TUC's are great in Zion.

Blue/Green, Green/Yellow (MVP) and Yellow/Red are the key ones.
pazreal

Trad climber
Spokane, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2009 - 04:46pm PT
They worked very well and I ended up using the middle sizes the most often. The action was smooth, the lobes did not do any sort of skating or other weird movement. There was very good flex by the stem without any sort of cam contraction like some people mentioned with the regular Master Cams.
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Oct 21, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
A friend and I had 1 Offset master cam that we took up Never Never Land with us. It was a Purple/Blue size (similar to a Blue/Green Alien). We were very surprised at how bad ass it performed. It did everything our Alien offsets did, and sometimes did it better because of the narrowness of the head. It was wonderful...until it broke.

The thing was brand new, it didn't last 10 pitches of occasional placements. Now, I recognize that this could have just been dumb luck or any number of things, but from my experience with Metolious gear it wasn't quite that.

It broke because the cam-stops, which are really small little metal pegs off the inside edges of the cams to stop the lobes, it just snapped off. This is an issue him and I have noticed before on Metolius pieces, the cam stops are small, thin and fragile. So while it was an awesome piece, like any gear, it had draw backs.

I have also heard that the Kevlar trigger cords are prone to breaking. Haven't sen that first hand yet though.
Messages 21 - 27 of total 27 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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