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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2009 - 02:04am PT
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Aldude- See op. New guidebook is coming out in the spring. Guide will be available everywhere that fine guidebooks are sold.
Regarding the route in the photo- Need to see more of the route, or more of the background, or different perspective to be sure. However, it does not look immediately familiar. Since I have been on, or inspected from close by, virtually all of the 1200 routes in the guide, I suspect this is not a route currently included in the new guidebook. But I could be wrong without a wider angle photo.
Is it within the boundaries laid out in the op? Either way I would like to hear the details.
To figure out the area covered:
Start at the intersection of Highway 50 and Highway 28 at Spooner Summit, draw a line across Lake Tahoe to Homewood. Most everything north of there to Interstate 80 is included. West, down I-80 to Highway 20 is the northwest boundary.(still undecided whether there is going to be room to include The Emeralds/Bowman, which is further down Highway 20. Started working on those areas, but they are mostly incomplete and probably won't make the cut) Crags heading east past Carson City all the way out to Dayton are included. North, past Reno all the way out to the Pyramid Lake region is the northeast boundary.
Howdy-Thanks for the support. The errors regarding Big Chief/Sawtooth Ridge/Light Deprivation Buttress etc. are going to get cleared up.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 14, 2009 - 10:06am PT
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Will it have the areas off the Mt Rose highway?
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2009 - 12:39pm PT
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Thomas Creek and Trippy Rock (volcanic crags off of Mt. Rose Highway) are included. Currenty none of the granite off of Mt. Rose Highway is included because I have yet to find anyone with route info for the rock there. I have not been up there in a long time. Would love to add anything there if you have beta on established routes. The little granite outcrop on the north side, just before the meadow, always has looked interesting.
Have you climbed anything on the back (north) side of the ridge? Would like to have an excuse to head back up there, even if it means snowshoeing or skiing in with climbing gear. Anything between Mt. Rose Highway and Spooner Summit would be of interest to hear about as well, as I have not spent enough time exploring that area.
Edit- Speaking of Thomas Creek, anyone have fa/route names on the three, super short, sport routes at Thomas Creek on the wall to the left of the main routes?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 14, 2009 - 01:09pm PT
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Steve Glotfelty (sp) is the one to talk to about Thomas Creek. I;ve explored a bunch of those outcrops you mention with little success. I was hoping, you had something more.
edit, I thought it might be grouse slab as well
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howdy
Social climber
Donner Lake
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Oct 14, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
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aldude-
That looks like it is over on Grouse Slab. Or is it on the Green Phantom?? I think the perspective is a little off for the Phantom though??
Cheers,
Howdy
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Oct 14, 2009 - 01:30pm PT
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Hi Al... Greese
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
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Is the route in the photo the .10cish route just to the right of "Europa" and "The Slash" at Grouse Slabs? Don't remember it being quite that steep, but the rock looks similar. If so it is in the new guide with unknown name/fa info. Is that one of your routes?
I was just there climbing some routes on a little wall 100' below there a week and a half ago and still didn't recognize the photo. Some other (old) "new" stuff on that side of Grouse Slabs is included as well.
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DHike
climber
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Oct 14, 2009 - 02:01pm PT
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John,
Nice work, contact me by email if you want a couple of more obscure routes to add.
Dan
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Oct 14, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
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AO - you are right sir (w/help from howdy&Brian). 10c sounds right but if Europa is 10d then this route is 9c!! Seriously - Europa feels 5.11 to me*
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2009 - 05:04pm PT
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Aldude- If that is your route, did you put a name to it? Year?
Were you involved in the route on a small wall directly below this route? Guessing they went in at about the same time. A couple of bolts on a similar slab, but a bit easier, just to the right of a .10- flared crack? Route name?
edit- Yeah, Europa is a bit of a sandbag, especially if you don't do a lot of super thin, steep slab.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 07:54pm PT
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A timely bump.
If you still have any obscure route info to get to me, please do it now as I am wrapping up this project and hope to have it ready for editing by Jan 1rst.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 16, 2009 - 07:58pm PT
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Need a reviewer? Fire one this way...
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FINCH
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Is there an update on when this will hit the stores?
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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John, congrats. That's a lot of work. Can't wait to see it.
Tom
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2010 - 10:43pm PT
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Hoping to send it off to the printers in about a month. Probably in stores late May or early June. Still have a couple of key people from bitd that I am trying to interview to finish the historical narrative and review the book for first ascent accuracy. The guide is otherwise just about complete and making the rounds for feedback. Over 1300 routes now (650 never before published) Still not to late to add some last minute fa info if anyone has not contacted me yet.
I will update when I know a definite availability date.
John jackson
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FINCH
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Awesome! Thanks. I'm moving to Reno in 11 days and am not very familiar with the local crags. This book is coming at the perfect time. Great work.
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tomas.bosque
Sport climber
Reno, NV
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Hey OP-
Now that it's May, just curious when you think this will hit the shelves?
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Mtbphoto
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Can't wait for this guide, hope it comes out before I leave Tahoe!
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tomas.bosque
Sport climber
Reno, NV
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Jul 14, 2010 - 04:51pm PT
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Bump.
Is there any news on a release date for this book?
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nano
Trad climber
truckee
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Apr 21, 2011 - 02:01am PT
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bump
You know I love you, John Jackson!
The book is coming out soon....June of 2011...I have so much respect for you in the way that you dedicated your time and passion. over a span of 20+ years, to this amazing project....thank you!
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