Fifi hook with rubber coating? Please help a noob...

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 1 - 20 of total 29 in this topic

<< First | < Previous | Show All | Next > | Last >>

Till

Trad climber

Palo Alto, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 10, 2009 - 03:31pm PT

hey there,

this is my problem:
a friend and I like to climb long alpine routes. when he follows he likes to rest on gear to avoid the rope elongation. to do that he clips a biner into the lower biner of any available draw - this biner on biner action tends to wreck the draw and it appears to be quite difficult to unclip again when the going gets tough.

would this solution work:
to avoid the hassle of clipping and unclipping I would propose using a fifi hook. however, that would surely be even worse for the lower biner of any draw used for resting. thus, the perfect product - in my humble opinion - would be a rubber coated fifi hook that avoids any damage to the biner.

have you heard of such a product?
do you know of a better solution for resting on gear?
if this product does not exist, but you think it is a good idea, do you have any suggestions on how to make one?

sorry to bother you with this.
any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

many thanks

till

slobmonster

Trad climber

berkeley, ca

Aug 10, 2009 - 03:40pm PT

You're worried about your aluminum getting scratched?

Any "damage" from what you describe is cosmetic only.

Prod

Trad climber

A place w/o Avitars apparently

Aug 10, 2009 - 03:40pm PT

Resting on gear? How about keeping on climbing and resting at the belay, or on stance?

Prod.

Nefarius

Big Wall climber

Fresno

Aug 10, 2009 - 03:41pm PT

^^^ What Prod said. Or, maybe bite off what he can actually chew.

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

crimping through the start of the Generator

Aug 10, 2009 - 03:45pm PT

I think what your friend needs is a complete rack attached to h/h gear loop, perhaps dangling on an adjustable daisy and ready to be deployed at the slightest hint of difficulty. In this manner a rest may be had at any point without your poor friend having to rely on your perhaps insufficiently frequent placements.

I'd think about purchasing a small haul bag to prevent scratching up the extra rack.

piquaclimber

Trad climber

Durango

Aug 10, 2009 - 04:06pm PT

This must be a troll.

Shimanilami

Trad climber

San Jose, CA

Aug 10, 2009 - 04:09pm PT

At times like these, I try to tell myself, "He's just a noob. You were a noob once, too."

But this time, it isn't working. Because never in my life have I been as lame as you and your friend.

Learn to climb like a man, you frickin' wussies.

Redwreck

Social climber

Echo Parque, Los Angeles, CA

Aug 10, 2009 - 04:23pm PT

I just clip my Prince Albert into the bottom 'biner when I need to hang.

slobmonster

Trad climber

berkeley, ca

Aug 10, 2009 - 04:24pm PT

We could suggest that he dip his willy in Plasti-Dip to serve as a permanent condom. For full Darwin-award status, dip head, too.

happiegrrrl

Trad climber

New York, NY

Aug 10, 2009 - 04:37pm PT

(Happie channeling one of the Supermen. Who, I haven't the faintest idea...)

Sheep ain't mountain goats, dude. They just don't have that same ability on 3rd class. It's no wonder she's balking. Get yerself a goat and she'll be up that trail faster that you can say "Wait for me honey; I'm a comin'!"

Josh Nash

Social climber

riverbank ca

Aug 10, 2009 - 05:20pm PT

I just clip my Prince Albert into the bottom 'biner when I need to

I havn't laughed that hard in a long time. My God that's funny!

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Aug 10, 2009 - 05:21pm PT

AHHH, make sure you use a Trojan for slipping over your FiFi. Durex barely hold bodyweight, and Lifestyles are better for your camelback hose.

Quit climbing with Mr. A0

kev

climber

Aug 10, 2009 - 05:27pm PT

The best thing to do is to get a tibloc and attach it to the rope. You'll have no wear on your beaners or pro!

Josh Nash

Social climber

riverbank ca

Aug 10, 2009 - 05:27pm PT

take a spare cord tie one end in a figure eight on a bight and the other end like this....
now give it to your second and bingo a convenient way to hang from gear....

Till

Trad climber

Palo Alto, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2009 - 05:32pm PT

you guys/gals are awesome - seriously!

now I know that we suck salty donkey balls. i especially enjoyed the recommendation of taking an extra haul bag to keep the additional gear from being scratched. pricesless. we'll do.

but befor I buy the bag, just one more try:
a) any better ideas for resting on gear? come on guys, I know you know, just share the wisdom...
b) yes we will die, but probably a bit later
c) if you follow 5.12 trad with a backpack without hanging thats brilliant. we are not quite there yet, but with your help the resting could be a whole lot more efficient.

I would really appriciate some helpful answers, but either way: thanks for listening!

best to all of you!

till

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

crimping through the start of the Generator

Aug 10, 2009 - 05:41pm PT

1.Dedicated runners with bail biners (you'll know what this means, sooner or later)upon which it is okay to rest. This means you need to put 2 draws on each piece. Clearly mark the old ones so Homey doesn't get scratch marks on the good ones.

2. Switch to clip-ups with convenient dog bolts preplaced at comforting intervals. Fifi into these, instead of shiny new biners.

3. Pre-rigged skyhook on second's harness.

4. Fifi directly into gear placed by leader. Practicing this motion repeatedly will ensure endurance later in life (possibly) and surely entertain onlookers.

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, Ca.

Aug 10, 2009 - 05:58pm PT

As suggested earlier by Josh, just have him girth hitch a sling or cord (or daisy) around his harness belay loop with a biner attached to the free end. When climbing the 'leash' clips onto a gear loop, when resting deploy the leash and clip the free loop onto the biner of the gear to be rested on.

I still don't understand the "wear" of biner to biner contact, especially if he's just resting on it. Whatever, just use the loop to keep your gear looking fresh and new.

kev

climber

Aug 10, 2009 - 06:13pm PT

Till,

Perhaps the best solution is to trail a static line then belay your troll on that. No elongation issues. Otherwise your troll needs a whole rack so he can place his own gear and clip to it.

kev