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Messages 1 - 29 of total 29 in this topic |
Till
Trad climber
Palo Alto, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 10, 2009 - 03:31pm PT
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hey there,
this is my problem:
a friend and I like to climb long alpine routes. when he follows he likes to rest on gear to avoid the rope elongation. to do that he clips a biner into the lower biner of any available draw - this biner on biner action tends to wreck the draw and it appears to be quite difficult to unclip again when the going gets tough.
would this solution work:
to avoid the hassle of clipping and unclipping I would propose using a fifi hook. however, that would surely be even worse for the lower biner of any draw used for resting. thus, the perfect product - in my humble opinion - would be a rubber coated fifi hook that avoids any damage to the biner.
have you heard of such a product?
do you know of a better solution for resting on gear?
if this product does not exist, but you think it is a good idea, do you have any suggestions on how to make one?
sorry to bother you with this.
any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
many thanks
till
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 10, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
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You're worried about your aluminum getting scratched?
Any "damage" from what you describe is cosmetic only.
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Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Aug 10, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
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Resting on gear? How about keeping on climbing and resting at the belay, or on stance?
Prod.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Aug 10, 2009 - 03:41pm PT
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^^^ What Prod said. Or, maybe bite off what he can actually chew.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
crimping through the start of the Generator
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Aug 10, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
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I think what your friend needs is a complete rack attached to h/h gear loop, perhaps dangling on an adjustable daisy and ready to be deployed at the slightest hint of difficulty. In this manner a rest may be had at any point without your poor friend having to rely on your perhaps insufficiently frequent placements.
I'd think about purchasing a small haul bag to prevent scratching up the extra rack.
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
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Aug 10, 2009 - 04:06pm PT
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This must be a troll.
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Shimanilami
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Aug 10, 2009 - 04:09pm PT
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At times like these, I try to tell myself, "He's just a noob. You were a noob once, too."
But this time, it isn't working. Because never in my life have I been as lame as you and your friend.
Learn to climb like a man, you frickin' wussies.
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Redwreck
Social climber
Echo Parque, Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 10, 2009 - 04:23pm PT
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I just clip my Prince Albert into the bottom 'biner when I need to hang.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 10, 2009 - 04:24pm PT
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We could suggest that he dip his willy in Plasti-Dip to serve as a permanent condom. For full Darwin-award status, dip head, too.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Aug 10, 2009 - 04:37pm PT
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(Happie channeling one of the Supermen. Who, I haven't the faintest idea...)
Sheep ain't mountain goats, dude. They just don't have that same ability on 3rd class. It's no wonder she's balking. Get yerself a goat and she'll be up that trail faster that you can say "Wait for me honey; I'm a comin'!"
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Josh Nash
Social climber
riverbank ca
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Aug 10, 2009 - 05:20pm PT
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I just clip my Prince Albert into the bottom 'biner when I need to
I havn't laughed that hard in a long time. My God that's funny!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 10, 2009 - 05:21pm PT
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AHHH, make sure you use a Trojan for slipping over your FiFi. Durex barely hold bodyweight, and Lifestyles are better for your camelback hose.
Quit climbing with Mr. A0
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kev
climber
CA
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Aug 10, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
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The best thing to do is to get a tibloc and attach it to the rope. You'll have no wear on your beaners or pro!
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Josh Nash
Social climber
riverbank ca
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Aug 10, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
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take a spare cord tie one end in a figure eight on a bight and the other end like this....
now give it to your second and bingo a convenient way to hang from gear....
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Till
Trad climber
Palo Alto, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
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you guys/gals are awesome - seriously!
now I know that we suck salty donkey balls. i especially enjoyed the recommendation of taking an extra haul bag to keep the additional gear from being scratched. pricesless. we'll do.
but befor I buy the bag, just one more try:
a) any better ideas for resting on gear? come on guys, I know you know, just share the wisdom...
b) yes we will die, but probably a bit later
c) if you follow 5.12 trad with a backpack without hanging thats brilliant. we are not quite there yet, but with your help the resting could be a whole lot more efficient.
I would really appriciate some helpful answers, but either way: thanks for listening!
best to all of you!
till
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
crimping through the start of the Generator
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Aug 10, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
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1.Dedicated runners with bail biners (you'll know what this means, sooner or later)upon which it is okay to rest. This means you need to put 2 draws on each piece. Clearly mark the old ones so Homey doesn't get scratch marks on the good ones.
2. Switch to clip-ups with convenient dog bolts preplaced at comforting intervals. Fifi into these, instead of shiny new biners.
3. Pre-rigged skyhook on second's harness.
4. Fifi directly into gear placed by leader. Practicing this motion repeatedly will ensure endurance later in life (possibly) and surely entertain onlookers.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 10, 2009 - 05:58pm PT
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As suggested earlier by Josh, just have him girth hitch a sling or cord (or daisy) around his harness belay loop with a biner attached to the free end. When climbing the 'leash' clips onto a gear loop, when resting deploy the leash and clip the free loop onto the biner of the gear to be rested on.
I still don't understand the "wear" of biner to biner contact, especially if he's just resting on it. Whatever, just use the loop to keep your gear looking fresh and new.
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kev
climber
CA
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Aug 10, 2009 - 06:13pm PT
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Till,
Perhaps the best solution is to trail a static line then belay your troll on that. No elongation issues. Otherwise your troll needs a whole rack so he can place his own gear and clip to it.
kev
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 10, 2009 - 06:18pm PT
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trail a static line then belay your troll on that.
Bwahhahahaha!!!
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Aug 10, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
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Static line?
"Ouch!"
AF
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 10, 2009 - 07:08pm PT
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Perhaps your second should invest in a pair of ascenders, or you should climb routes that are better suited to her/his abilities.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
crimping through the start of the Generator
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Aug 10, 2009 - 07:16pm PT
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You guys are no fun, Anders!
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Aug 10, 2009 - 07:25pm PT
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"Tough crowd. This topic would be met with warm fuzzy cocktails, two moderators, 3 mentors-for-hire and a goddamn group grope pver at rc.noob. Plus it would foster 9 sub-threads and the banning of at least one regular "I just can't take it anymore" noob school graduate in a deluge of foul language and golden showers.
Here you just get the door slammed in your face.
I love you guys."
Best post of the year, IMO.
"trail a static line then belay your troll on that"
Close runner up!
:)
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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Aug 10, 2009 - 09:33pm PT
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I don't worry about scratched gear.
When I buy gear, I will scratch it, so that it blends in on the rack.
I think one of you is free climbing, & the other is aid climbing.
Pick one or the other, & do them together.
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Aug 10, 2009 - 09:51pm PT
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GSG 9 has some. You could ask them.
. . .Or, you could just use the same density metal and clip into the higher biner.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Aug 10, 2009 - 10:57pm PT
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DMT & Skully,
You guys hit the nail on the head!
Thanks,
Doug
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Aug 11, 2009 - 02:56am PT
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For this type of trolling, I recommend a large fishhook. Bend the barb down to avoid scratches.
Are you related to Ashley Blue?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Aug 11, 2009 - 03:03am PT
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
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Aug 11, 2009 - 03:20am PT
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Or just lead on the static line so you don't have to haul another rope. Fix it at the anchors and then your second could just jug up the line.
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