Photo Gallery -- Lost in America

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 41 - 53 of total 53 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Aug 30, 2012 - 04:45pm PT
Cheers

DMT
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Aug 30, 2012 - 05:57pm PT
We're planning on both the leader and second climbing with a set of butterknives. I'm rather tired of "A4" routes that are really just clipping up a line of heads.

BUT

DON'T FORGET

everyone is brave on the internet and on the Bridge.

;-)
IV

climber
tahoe
Aug 30, 2012 - 06:19pm PT
Is cleaning all the heads that great of an idea? Doesn't placing new heads cause more damage to the rock? Lost in America is hardly a clip up.... at least when we did it in a push it wasn't. Besides, the A4 pitch doesn't have many if any fixed heads...just good ole fashioned knife blades and beaks.
Cheers
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Aug 30, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
If heads are such a bad idea they should have drilled bolts in the first place, or we should be drilling bolts now.

I've probably removed more heads, deadheads and heads with broken wires than anyone in the past 10 years and I can tell you that no, removing the heads with a butterknife, does not damage the rock anymore that the original placement of the head does.
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Aug 30, 2012 - 06:32pm PT
FIGHT FIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


HAHAHA!

;-)
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Aug 30, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
Well, placing and removing heads does far, far less damage to the rock than placing and removing pitons and no one mentions that when you go up on one of these routes that still require "nailing".
IV

climber
tahoe
Aug 30, 2012 - 07:26pm PT
head = head
deadhead = deadhead
cleaning heads = bummer
cleaning deadheads = happy fun time, thank you
Cheers
micronut

Trad climber
Aug 30, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
Credit: micronut
Deadheads



Awesome TR and photos by the way. Killer send.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Aug 30, 2012 - 08:10pm PT
Really great route and pictures to boot! Thanks for posting.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Aug 31, 2012 - 05:27pm PT
Okay, you can all breath easier. Both of my big wall mentors recommended taking out deadheads, heads with broken wires and heads I can avoid by other means, but otherwise leaving the fixed heads alone.

So there ya go!
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Oct 24, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
Missed this TR first time around.

good on ya!!!
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Oct 24, 2012 - 06:26pm PT
RADNESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Oct 24, 2012 - 08:58pm PT
excellent job guys, great shots!
Messages 41 - 53 of total 53 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews