Photo Gallery -- Lost in America

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Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber

And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...

Aug 30, 2012 - 01:45pm PT

Cheers

DMT

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Aug 30, 2012 - 02:57pm PT

We're planning on both the leader and second climbing with a set of butterknives. I'm rather tired of "A4" routes that are really just clipping up a line of heads.

BUT

DON'T FORGET

everyone is brave on the internet and on the Bridge.

;-)

climber

tahoe

Aug 30, 2012 - 03:19pm PT

Is cleaning all the heads that great of an idea? Doesn't placing new heads cause more damage to the rock? Lost in America is hardly a clip up.... at least when we did it in a push it wasn't. Besides, the A4 pitch doesn't have many if any fixed heads...just good ole fashioned knife blades and beaks.
Cheers

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Aug 30, 2012 - 03:24pm PT

If heads are such a bad idea they should have drilled bolts in the first place, or we should be drilling bolts now.

I've probably removed more heads, deadheads and heads with broken wires than anyone in the past 10 years and I can tell you that no, removing the heads with a butterknife, does not damage the rock anymore that the original placement of the head does.

Jeremy

Social climber

Albuquerque, NM

Aug 30, 2012 - 03:32pm PT

FIGHT FIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

HAHAHA!

;-)

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Aug 30, 2012 - 03:34pm PT

Well, placing and removing heads does far, far less damage to the rock than placing and removing pitons and no one mentions that when you go up on one of these routes that still require "nailing".

climber

tahoe

Aug 30, 2012 - 04:26pm PT

head = head
deadhead = deadhead
cleaning heads = bummer
cleaning deadheads = happy fun time, thank you
Cheers

micronut

Trad climber

Aug 30, 2012 - 05:02pm PT


	Credit: micronut

Deadheads

Awesome TR and photos by the way. Killer send.

StahlBro

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Aug 30, 2012 - 05:10pm PT

Really great route and pictures to boot! Thanks for posting.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Aug 31, 2012 - 02:27pm PT

Okay, you can all breath easier. Both of my big wall mentors recommended taking out deadheads, heads with broken wires and heads I can avoid by other means, but otherwise leaving the fixed heads alone.

So there ya go!