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| Messages 1 - 46 of total 46 in this topic |
BriGuy
Trad climber
SL,UT
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 5, 2009 - 08:48pm PT
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A selection of photos from the route. The distance shots are from local yosemite badass Tom Evans.
Sorting gear.
That open gate is no big deal.
Justin gets in done on P1, long pitch.
P2, team hauling.
All smiles, all day.
Start of the 3rd pitch, sporty heads for A2 I thought.
More P3 action.
Great rock, great photo.
Tipped out beaks on the Badlands, P5.
Looking up at the 5.10R section on P6.
Seth styles P6 like it should be done.
Only 1 fixed head for pro for a quite a ways off the belay.
A Korean team above.
Bonus photo, Shield headwall.
Bay of Pigs, P7.
One of the crux pitches, some sketchy loose hooking on P9.
P9 belay, getting ready for another.
El Cap salute, lazer cut cracks on P10.
Fly or Die!
Bonus photo, friends on Tribal Rite, taken from the NA wall.
Pigs in space.
FoD P11 from Tom.
T-rex, jugging after taking a 200' swing off the lower anchor!
Place of Dead Roads, P12.
Joining ZM for another excellent pitch, P13.
Lost in America joins Zenyatta Mondatta.
Summit Cobras!
Parting shot.
Cheers BriGuy.
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kubok!3
climber
Austin, TX
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Most excellent!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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YessssS!1!!
Very, very cool, dudes. Thanks for sharing that.
Tom Evans should get some kudos too! You guys will cherish those pics he took. Tom, da man!
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Great Stuff!!!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Very nice, gentlemen, very nice.
Zander
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Nice walk in the Park!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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El Badasso
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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some nice pix.
free climbing out of aid sh#t is always so grim. the movements are so different, even out of a belay i always hated it.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Badass! Great TR- Said all of the important stuff with those photos!
Great work, great looking route!
Mucci
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Wow, pretty darn incredible. rock and roll ......and yo did.
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kev
climber
CA
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Proud with great pics!
kev
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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What a superb route is L in A - excellent job with the photos, mixing 'em up from Tom and from the wall.
I was on Virginia while those Korean guys were above you, and man oh man, were they "fighting for their lives"! They had about a ten- or twelve-foot cheat stick that they were using rather frequently.
I saw them go up and down, up and down, easily at least half a dozen times on the crux "free climbing" pitch, which I hooked when I soloed the route.
Great send, mates! The summit King Cobra shot is my favourite, for sure!
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Alex Baker
climber
Portland
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Thanks dude!! What a great TR. Not sure if anyone noted above but this is just one of a few killer routes Brian did on the cap'n this spring. Cheers Briguy.
Alex
edit: The fly or die pitch looks way cool. The inverted wave thing and the color of the rock up and right, wow!
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Nice post!! A picture is worth a thousand words after all! Love those cloudy days for taking great shots!!
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Cool shots Brian and Tom. Nice send!
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PhotogEC
climber
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Bump for a kicka$$ photo TR.
Really nice mix of shots from Tom Evans and on the wall.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Great Job, guys!!!!!
What awesome shots, and a great report.
Those pitch names are something else, as is T-rex
doin' that 200' swing.
My heart's in my throat, I dern near pissed myself thinkin'
of that!
Whoo hooo!!!!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Awesome send. Thanks for sharing. Always wanted to do that one. Is Fly or Die completely fixed by now?
Back in the day in C4, I remember someone asking Xavier Bongard what he did on the free section when he did the first solo. He just looked at the guy like he didn't understand the question and finally said, "I used a hook!"
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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kick a$$ report.. Thanks for posting this business!!!
Keep it coming...
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the Fet
Supercaliyosemistic climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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"Pigs in Space". LOL
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Awesome photos both by you guys and Tom. That pic looking up at the Koreans ledge is stellar.
Cheers,
Doug
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Very Very cool. Thanks for bringin' it!
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BriGuy
Trad climber
SL,UT
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2009 - 08:15pm PT
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Thanks again Tom Evans!
Yeah, Fly or Die was mostly fixed. T-rex placed a couple of pieces near the beginning and mabey 1 or 2 in the traverse, that's it.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
crimping through the start of the Generator
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yeeee-haw!
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Sep 11, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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motivating! All those Tom Evans shots are SO good! He gave you guys some major love.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Sep 11, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
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Nice Trip report.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Sep 11, 2009 - 10:51pm PT
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Dudes..
That "Great Rock, great photo" shot is badass!!! Love the striping on the rock.
Pitch 6 looks super thin.. Dude was stylin!
Nice send. Really great trip report guys.
You deserved that Summit Cobra
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Sep 12, 2009 - 12:57pm PT
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Sweet trip report & great pics!! You gotta love that stone up there. Leavitt & Child bagged a real quality FA on this one, to be sure.
I like the mottled rock like grey tiger stripes. Very asthetic & beautiful.
Thanks for sharing.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Nice to see this one dug up from the past!
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426
climber
☬
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ya, I missed this one first go, nicepix
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Apr 26, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
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bump for wall stoke!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Apr 26, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
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Fabulous work, I'm really, really jealous!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Aug 30, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
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Yeah, Fly or Die was mostly fixed.
Hmmm… that might change soon…
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Aug 30, 2012 - 04:21pm PT
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Not sure if I ever mentioned this, but when Brand (AKA the Incredible Bulk) and I did the second ascent, I led the Fly or Die pitch. Problem was, whoever cleaned the pitch on the FA pulled the wires on all the heads, so there were a bunch of dead heads, especially up in the business. It's soooo steep in there, and I remember being gripped, bouncing around trying to clean the heads, and cussing out Greg and Randy. Wish I'd had one of your butter knives Mark.....
Paul
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Aug 30, 2012 - 04:29pm PT
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Way impressed that you topped out with beer. I've never been able to do that.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Aug 30, 2012 - 05:57pm PT
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We're planning on both the leader and second climbing with a set of butterknives. I'm rather tired of "A4" routes that are really just clipping up a line of heads.
BUT
DON'T FORGET
everyone is brave on the internet and on the Bridge.
;-)
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IV
climber
tahoe
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Aug 30, 2012 - 06:19pm PT
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Is cleaning all the heads that great of an idea? Doesn't placing new heads cause more damage to the rock? Lost in America is hardly a clip up.... at least when we did it in a push it wasn't. Besides, the A4 pitch doesn't have many if any fixed heads...just good ole fashioned knife blades and beaks.
Cheers
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Aug 30, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
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If heads are such a bad idea they should have drilled bolts in the first place, or we should be drilling bolts now.
I've probably removed more heads, deadheads and heads with broken wires than anyone in the past 10 years and I can tell you that no, removing the heads with a butterknife, does not damage the rock anymore that the original placement of the head does.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Aug 30, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
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Well, placing and removing heads does far, far less damage to the rock than placing and removing pitons and no one mentions that when you go up on one of these routes that still require "nailing".
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IV
climber
tahoe
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Aug 30, 2012 - 07:26pm PT
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head = head
deadhead = deadhead
cleaning heads = bummer
cleaning deadheads = happy fun time, thank you
Cheers
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micronut
Trad climber
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Aug 30, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
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Deadheads
Awesome TR and photos by the way. Killer send.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Aug 30, 2012 - 08:10pm PT
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Really great route and pictures to boot! Thanks for posting.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Aug 31, 2012 - 05:27pm PT
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Okay, you can all breath easier. Both of my big wall mentors recommended taking out deadheads, heads with broken wires and heads I can avoid by other means, but otherwise leaving the fixed heads alone.
So there ya go!
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Oct 24, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
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Missed this TR first time around.
good on ya!!!
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Oct 24, 2012 - 08:58pm PT
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excellent job guys, great shots!
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| Messages 1 - 46 of total 46 in this topic |
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