Photo Gallery -- Lost in America

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BriGuy

Trad climber
SL,UT
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 5, 2009 - 05:48pm PT
A selection of photos from the route. The distance shots are from local yosemite badass Tom Evans.


Sorting gear.



That open gate is no big deal.



Justin gets in done on P1, long pitch.


P2, team hauling.



All smiles, all day.



Start of the 3rd pitch, sporty heads for A2 I thought.



More P3 action.



Great rock, great photo.



Tipped out beaks on the Badlands, P5.



Looking up at the 5.10R section on P6.



Seth styles P6 like it should be done.



Only 1 fixed head for pro for a quite a ways off the belay.



A Korean team above.



Bonus photo, Shield headwall.



Bay of Pigs, P7.



One of the crux pitches, some sketchy loose hooking on P9.



P9 belay, getting ready for another.



El Cap salute, lazer cut cracks on P10.



Fly or Die!



Bonus photo, friends on Tribal Rite, taken from the NA wall.


Pigs in space.


FoD P11 from Tom.



T-rex, jugging after taking a 200' swing off the lower anchor!



Place of Dead Roads, P12.



Joining ZM for another excellent pitch, P13.



Lost in America joins Zenyatta Mondatta.



Summit Cobras!



Parting shot.



Cheers BriGuy.












Walleye

climber
A hard right down Big Tujunga Canyon
Aug 5, 2009 - 05:57pm PT
Excellent. Great juxtaposition of ground and "being there" shots.
kubok!3

climber
Austin, TX
Aug 5, 2009 - 06:03pm PT
Most excellent!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Aug 5, 2009 - 06:05pm PT
YessssS!1!!

Very, very cool, dudes. Thanks for sharing that.

Tom Evans should get some kudos too! You guys will cherish those pics he took. Tom, da man!
Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
Aug 5, 2009 - 06:05pm PT
Great Stuff!!!
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Aug 5, 2009 - 06:13pm PT
Very nice, gentlemen, very nice.
Zander
Gobee

Trad climber
Los Angeles
Aug 5, 2009 - 06:25pm PT
Nice walk in the Park!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Aug 5, 2009 - 06:32pm PT
El Badasso
klk

Trad climber
cali
Aug 5, 2009 - 06:36pm PT
some nice pix.

free climbing out of aid sh#t is always so grim. the movements are so different, even out of a belay i always hated it.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 5, 2009 - 06:40pm PT
Badass! Great TR- Said all of the important stuff with those photos!

Great work, great looking route!

Mucci
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Aug 5, 2009 - 06:48pm PT
Wow, pretty darn incredible. rock and roll ......and yo did.
kev

climber
CA
Aug 5, 2009 - 07:23pm PT
Proud with great pics!

kev
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Aug 5, 2009 - 07:52pm PT
What a superb route is L in A - excellent job with the photos, mixing 'em up from Tom and from the wall.

I was on Virginia while those Korean guys were above you, and man oh man, were they "fighting for their lives"! They had about a ten- or twelve-foot cheat stick that they were using rather frequently.

I saw them go up and down, up and down, easily at least half a dozen times on the crux "free climbing" pitch, which I hooked when I soloed the route.

Great send, mates! The summit King Cobra shot is my favourite, for sure!
Alex Baker

climber
Portland
Aug 5, 2009 - 08:10pm PT
Thanks dude!! What a great TR. Not sure if anyone noted above but this is just one of a few killer routes Brian did on the cap'n this spring. Cheers Briguy.

Alex

edit: The fly or die pitch looks way cool. The inverted wave thing and the color of the rock up and right, wow!
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Aug 5, 2009 - 10:32pm PT
Nice post!! A picture is worth a thousand words after all! Love those cloudy days for taking great shots!!
Morgan

Trad climber
East Coast
Aug 6, 2009 - 09:06am PT
Cool shots Brian and Tom. Nice send!
PhotogEC

climber
Aug 6, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
Bump for a kicka$$ photo TR.

Really nice mix of shots from Tom Evans and on the wall.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Aug 6, 2009 - 12:25pm PT
Great Job, guys!!!!!
What awesome shots, and a great report.
Those pitch names are something else, as is T-rex
doin' that 200' swing.

My heart's in my throat, I dern near pissed myself thinkin'
of that!

Whoo hooo!!!!
adam d

climber
CA
Aug 6, 2009 - 12:30pm PT
Sweet!
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Aug 6, 2009 - 12:41pm PT
Awesome send. Thanks for sharing. Always wanted to do that one. Is Fly or Die completely fixed by now?

Back in the day in C4, I remember someone asking Xavier Bongard what he did on the free section when he did the first solo. He just looked at the guy like he didn't understand the question and finally said, "I used a hook!"
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Aug 6, 2009 - 12:48pm PT
kick a$$ report.. Thanks for posting this business!!!

Keep it coming...

the Fet

Supercaliyosemistic climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Aug 6, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
"Pigs in Space". LOL

Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
Aug 6, 2009 - 01:52pm PT
Awesome photos both by you guys and Tom. That pic looking up at the Koreans ledge is stellar.

Cheers,

Doug
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Aug 6, 2009 - 01:59pm PT
Very Very cool. Thanks for bringin' it!
BriGuy

Trad climber
SL,UT
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2009 - 05:15pm PT
Thanks again Tom Evans!

Yeah, Fly or Die was mostly fixed. T-rex placed a couple of pieces near the beginning and mabey 1 or 2 in the traverse, that's it.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
crimping through the start of the Generator
Aug 9, 2009 - 03:32pm PT
yeeee-haw!
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Sep 11, 2009 - 12:51pm PT
motivating! All those Tom Evans shots are SO good! He gave you guys some major love.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Sep 11, 2009 - 07:30pm PT
Nice Trip report.

Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Sep 11, 2009 - 07:51pm PT
Dudes..

That "Great Rock, great photo" shot is badass!!! Love the striping on the rock.


Pitch 6 looks super thin.. Dude was stylin!


Nice send. Really great trip report guys.

You deserved that Summit Cobra
klaus

Big Wall climber
San F*#kincisco
Sep 11, 2009 - 08:11pm PT
nice pictures
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Sep 12, 2009 - 09:57am PT
Sweet trip report & great pics!! You gotta love that stone up there. Leavitt & Child bagged a real quality FA on this one, to be sure.

I like the mottled rock like grey tiger stripes. Very asthetic & beautiful.

Thanks for sharing.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 2, 2011 - 10:22am PT
Nice to see this one dug up from the past!
426

climber
Jul 2, 2011 - 02:49pm PT
ya, I missed this one first go, nicepix
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Apr 26, 2012 - 09:31am PT
bump for wall stoke!
Blakey

Trad climber
Newcastle UK
Apr 26, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
Fabulous work, I'm really, really jealous!
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Apr 26, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
SITTING AT A F*#KING COMPUTER AND NOT OUT CLIMBING BUMP!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Aug 30, 2012 - 09:45am PT
Yeah, Fly or Die was mostly fixed.

Hmmm… that might change soon…
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Aug 30, 2012 - 10:04am PT
BAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Gagner

climber
Boulder
Aug 30, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
Not sure if I ever mentioned this, but when Brand (AKA the Incredible Bulk) and I did the second ascent, I led the Fly or Die pitch. Problem was, whoever cleaned the pitch on the FA pulled the wires on all the heads, so there were a bunch of dead heads, especially up in the business. It's soooo steep in there, and I remember being gripped, bouncing around trying to clean the heads, and cussing out Greg and Randy. Wish I'd had one of your butter knives Mark.....

Paul

The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Aug 30, 2012 - 01:29pm PT
Way impressed that you topped out with beer. I've never been able to do that.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Aug 30, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
Cheers

DMT
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Aug 30, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
We're planning on both the leader and second climbing with a set of butterknives. I'm rather tired of "A4" routes that are really just clipping up a line of heads.

BUT

DON'T FORGET

everyone is brave on the internet and on the Bridge.

;-)
IV

climber
tahoe
Aug 30, 2012 - 03:19pm PT
Is cleaning all the heads that great of an idea? Doesn't placing new heads cause more damage to the rock? Lost in America is hardly a clip up.... at least when we did it in a push it wasn't. Besides, the A4 pitch doesn't have many if any fixed heads...just good ole fashioned knife blades and beaks.
Cheers
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Aug 30, 2012 - 03:24pm PT
If heads are such a bad idea they should have drilled bolts in the first place, or we should be drilling bolts now.

I've probably removed more heads, deadheads and heads with broken wires than anyone in the past 10 years and I can tell you that no, removing the heads with a butterknife, does not damage the rock anymore that the original placement of the head does.
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Aug 30, 2012 - 03:32pm PT
FIGHT FIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


HAHAHA!

;-)
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Aug 30, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
Well, placing and removing heads does far, far less damage to the rock than placing and removing pitons and no one mentions that when you go up on one of these routes that still require "nailing".
IV

climber
tahoe
Aug 30, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
head = head
deadhead = deadhead
cleaning heads = bummer
cleaning deadheads = happy fun time, thank you
Cheers
micronut

Trad climber
Aug 30, 2012 - 05:02pm PT
Credit: micronut
Deadheads



Awesome TR and photos by the way. Killer send.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Aug 30, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
Really great route and pictures to boot! Thanks for posting.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Aug 31, 2012 - 02:27pm PT
Okay, you can all breath easier. Both of my big wall mentors recommended taking out deadheads, heads with broken wires and heads I can avoid by other means, but otherwise leaving the fixed heads alone.

So there ya go!
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Oct 24, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
Missed this TR first time around.

good on ya!!!
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Oct 24, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
RADNESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Oct 24, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
excellent job guys, great shots!
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