North Twin- North Face G.Lowe & C.Jones Ascent 75-76

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nah000

climber
canuckistan
Sep 15, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
this is from the 1983 aaj and is written by cheesmond:

"In July 1982, Urs Kallen, Tim Friesen and I attempted to repeat the Lowe-Jones route on North Twin's north face. We were four days on the face but were unable to do the final wall as it was streaming with water caused by unusually warm conditions. Instead we traversed left to the ridge and followed this to the summit. We then crossed the icefield to the highway. We believe this is the most difficult face yet climbed in the Canadian Rockies. It still awaits a second ascent eight years after the first."

considering the above statement, cheesmond himself didn't consider his, friesen and kallen's 1982 climb to have been a successful ascent of the face. combining this and that any other public record considers house/prezelj to have made the third ascent of the face proper, i'd say it's a strange bit of historical revisionism to suddenly consider the walsh/wharton ascent the fifth.

pedantry aside, sweet shIt. always inspiring to hear about big stuff going down in your backyard.
Brandon P

Mountain climber
Canmore
Sep 16, 2013 - 07:41am PT
Very true.
But, House himself considers this the fifth ascent of the face, as he tweeted after they sent.
Originally I had it as the fourth, but after House said it was the fifth, well... he is Steve House.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 16, 2013 - 08:35am PT
I wonder if Cheese didn't just mean The Jones / Lowe route remained unrepeated? Regardless, I don't see how their route can be discounted seeing as a huge amount of their climbing was on the real goods, then it followed its nose to more expedient terrain which led to the summit all the same.

Its like claiming Bugs Mckeiths route on the eiger wasn't a real eigerwand route because it never went through the white spider or something. Sort of true, but if its on the north face I'd say its an ascent of the north face.

I'd love to hear a bit more than the usual sentence or two about the traverse of the chickens route.
I'll have to ask Ward about his and Demaio's attempt. I think they were gunning for the pillar.

John kelly - thanks for the offer.... do I detect a hint of desperation? I feel for you. all those toys and no one up there into it? Are you saying that there are still gems like the Wine bottle kicking around?
Anyway, I'm out. I tend to go south to climb these days, not north. Good luck - the routes you have been doing look world class!
nah000

climber
canuckistan
Sep 16, 2013 - 08:58am PT
interesting.

i still find that position and logic strange and strained, even if it is coming from house.

i'd find it less strange if all the press that house/prezelj received had touted their ascent as the fourth.

i.e. was there a change of heart on house's part in the intervening years, or has he always held this position and just doesn't read/contribute to the press he receives? it'd be great if he chimed in again as i'm sure he has strong reasons for stating what he has.

either way i'm definitely spearheading a discussion that trends towards determining the number of angels on pin heads ... so, another congrats to walsh/wharton to keep this somewhat balanced. and definitely a big kudos to anyone who's climbed out of that hole via whatever means. having been to the woolley shoulder, i know how little justice the pictures of that side of the north twin serve.

Brandon P, you previously mentioned you climb regularly with kallen.

you should see if he'd be willing to pull up a chair to this campfire. i'm sure there is a more interesting story to be told about his/friesen/cheesmond's climb than the five lines that exist in the caj and aaj.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Sep 16, 2013 - 10:55am PT
Jon Walsh just keeps on going. He has an impressive list of big climbs done very quickly in good style.
BlackSpider

Ice climber
Sep 16, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
Jon Walsh's trip report:

http://www.alpinestyle.ca/2013/09/16/the_north_pillar

The most significant North American alpine ascent in years, and he's still so modest and understated.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Sep 20, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
It would be best if I knew before then.
Johnny K.

climber
Jan 10, 2014 - 06:55am PT
up..
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 10, 2014 - 09:51am PT
BlackSpider, that link ain't werkin'. Maybe it's temporary?
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