North Twin- North Face G.Lowe & C.Jones Ascent 75-76

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Messages 181 - 192 of total 192 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 16, 2013 - 11:35am PT
I wonder if Cheese didn't just mean The Jones / Lowe route remained unrepeated? Regardless, I don't see how their route can be discounted seeing as a huge amount of their climbing was on the real goods, then it followed its nose to more expedient terrain which led to the summit all the same.

Its like claiming Bugs Mckeiths route on the eiger wasn't a real eigerwand route because it never went through the white spider or something. Sort of true, but if its on the north face I'd say its an ascent of the north face.

I'd love to hear a bit more than the usual sentence or two about the traverse of the chickens route.
I'll have to ask Ward about his and Demaio's attempt. I think they were gunning for the pillar.

John kelly - thanks for the offer.... do I detect a hint of desperation? I feel for you. all those toys and no one up there into it? Are you saying that there are still gems like the Wine bottle kicking around?
Anyway, I'm out. I tend to go south to climb these days, not north. Good luck - the routes you have been doing look world class!
nah000

climber
canuckistan
Sep 16, 2013 - 11:58am PT
interesting.

i still find that position and logic strange and strained, even if it is coming from house.

i'd find it less strange if all the press that house/prezelj received had touted their ascent as the fourth.

i.e. was there a change of heart on house's part in the intervening years, or has he always held this position and just doesn't read/contribute to the press he receives? it'd be great if he chimed in again as i'm sure he has strong reasons for stating what he has.

either way i'm definitely spearheading a discussion that trends towards determining the number of angels on pin heads ... so, another congrats to walsh/wharton to keep this somewhat balanced. and definitely a big kudos to anyone who's climbed out of that hole via whatever means. having been to the woolley shoulder, i know how little justice the pictures of that side of the north twin serve.

Brandon P, you previously mentioned you climb regularly with kallen.

you should see if he'd be willing to pull up a chair to this campfire. i'm sure there is a more interesting story to be told about his/friesen/cheesmond's climb than the five lines that exist in the caj and aaj.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Sep 16, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
Jon Walsh just keeps on going. He has an impressive list of big climbs done very quickly in good style.
BlackSpider

Ice climber
Sep 16, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
Jon Walsh's trip report:

http://www.alpinestyle.ca/2013/09/16/the_north_pillar

The most significant North American alpine ascent in years, and he's still so modest and understated.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Sep 21, 2013 - 12:37am PT
It would be best if I knew before then.
Johnny K.

climber
Jan 10, 2014 - 09:55am PT
up..
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 10, 2014 - 12:51pm PT
BlackSpider, that link ain't werkin'. Maybe it's temporary?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2014 - 02:00pm PT
Nick of Time Bump...
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Jun 26, 2014 - 09:26pm PT
as bumpy as I wanna be
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2014 - 08:42am PT
Grand adventure bump...
Psilocyborg

climber
Sep 8, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
what an amazing read.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2014 - 11:53am PT
Bump for the Alpine Climbing Jones...
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