North Twin- North Face G.Lowe & C.Jones Ascent 75-76

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 181 - 195 of total 195 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2014 - 08:42am PT
Grand adventure bump...
Psilocyborg

climber
Sep 8, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
what an amazing read.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2014 - 11:53am PT
Bump for the Alpine Climbing Jones...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2015 - 09:05am PT
Should be a good year for the Rubblies...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2016 - 11:49am PT
Tis the season bump...
crackfiend

climber
Springdale, Utah
Jul 24, 2016 - 07:14pm PT
Oh man, what a climb. Legendary status. thanks for the bump
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jul 24, 2016 - 07:46pm PT
The writing is understated, a masterwork of craft, brilliant. I remember reading this when it was first published. For all these decades, this article has served as a sort of personal Rosetta stone, a talisman for me to consult whenever I hiked a hard rock climb and needed a proper translation to underscore just how fabulously fun and silly and meager our antics were on those sunny California crags.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2017 - 07:15pm PT
Here is a thread Jim Brennan started about the first repeat of the North Pillar route.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2297509/North-Pillar-of-the-North-Twin-Repeated
okay, whatever

climber
Jun 21, 2017 - 07:49pm PT
Anyone who remembers that account in Ascent, and maybe more telling, the accompanying photos, will realize that the north face of North Twin is a very, very real challenge (not that I ever did it). To climb it, you have to hump loads a very long way, deal with less than ideal Canadian Rockies rock and weather, and you're a long way from anywhere if things go bad. And they didn't have cell phones in the 1970's, needless to say. And crampons and ice tools and gear in general were obviously not as finely tuned as they are now. George and Chris were on the edge, by their own admissions, but they made it.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Jun 21, 2017 - 07:56pm PT
arguably the finest example of alpine climbing in North America during the 20th century. Stellar from every angle.
okay, whatever

climber
Jun 21, 2017 - 08:11pm PT
Yes. Another sort of put-your-neck-on-the-line route in Canada was the Central Couloir on Mt. Kitchener. I can't remember what team did the first ascent of that, but I think Mugs Stump was part of it? Maybe with Jim Logan?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2017 - 08:14pm PT
Grand Central Couloir Jeff Lowe and Mike Weis August 1974.

Named for the boxcar-sized ice chunks that occasionally roll down it if I remember correctly.
okay, whatever

climber
Jun 21, 2017 - 08:16pm PT
Yes, you're right, Steve. My aging memory! I know Jeff's status these days, but have no idea where Weis is at, though I knew both of them a bit back in Boulder in the 1970's/1980's, and climbed an easy thing with Jeff above Chamonix in 1985.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2017 - 08:32pm PT
I can find out if you like.
I met him at Jeff's birthday party up at Snow Basin a few years ago.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Jun 21, 2017 - 08:36pm PT
could someone blow up the text or maybe reprint the text
Messages 181 - 195 of total 195 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews