The writing is understated, a masterwork of craft, brilliant. I remember reading this when it was first published. For all these decades, this article has served as a sort of personal Rosetta stone, a talisman for me to consult whenever I hiked a hard rock climb and needed a proper translation to underscore just how fabulously fun and silly and meager our antics were on those sunny California crags.
Anyone who remembers that account in Ascent, and maybe more telling, the accompanying photos, will realize that the north face of North Twin is a very, very real challenge (not that I ever did it). To climb it, you have to hump loads a very long way, deal with less than ideal Canadian Rockies rock and weather, and you're a long way from anywhere if things go bad. And they didn't have cell phones in the 1970's, needless to say. And crampons and ice tools and gear in general were obviously not as finely tuned as they are now. George and Chris were on the edge, by their own admissions, but they made it.
Yes. Another sort of put-your-neck-on-the-line route in Canada was the Central Couloir on Mt. Kitchener. I can't remember what team did the first ascent of that, but I think Mugs Stump was part of it? Maybe with Jim Logan?
Yes, you're right, Steve. My aging memory! I know Jeff's status these days, but have no idea where Weis is at, though I knew both of them a bit back in Boulder in the 1970's/1980's, and climbed an easy thing with Jeff above Chamonix in 1985.