North Twin- North Face G.Lowe & C.Jones Ascent 75-76

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Messages 161 - 180 of total 186 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Brandon P

Mountain climber
Canmore
Sep 16, 2013 - 10:41am PT
Very true.
But, House himself considers this the fifth ascent of the face, as he tweeted after they sent.
Originally I had it as the fourth, but after House said it was the fifth, well... he is Steve House.
nah000

climber
canuckistan
Sep 16, 2013 - 11:58am PT
interesting.

i still find that position and logic strange and strained, even if it is coming from house.

i'd find it less strange if all the press that house/prezelj received had touted their ascent as the fourth.

i.e. was there a change of heart on house's part in the intervening years, or has he always held this position and just doesn't read/contribute to the press he receives? it'd be great if he chimed in again as i'm sure he has strong reasons for stating what he has.

either way i'm definitely spearheading a discussion that trends towards determining the number of angels on pin heads ... so, another congrats to walsh/wharton to keep this somewhat balanced. and definitely a big kudos to anyone who's climbed out of that hole via whatever means. having been to the woolley shoulder, i know how little justice the pictures of that side of the north twin serve.

Brandon P, you previously mentioned you climb regularly with kallen.

you should see if he'd be willing to pull up a chair to this campfire. i'm sure there is a more interesting story to be told about his/friesen/cheesmond's climb than the five lines that exist in the caj and aaj.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Sep 16, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
Jon Walsh just keeps on going. He has an impressive list of big climbs done very quickly in good style.
BlackSpider

Ice climber
Sep 16, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
Jon Walsh's trip report:

http://www.alpinestyle.ca/2013/09/16/the_north_pillar

The most significant North American alpine ascent in years, and he's still so modest and understated.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Sep 21, 2013 - 12:37am PT
It would be best if I knew before then.
Johnny K.

climber
Jan 10, 2014 - 09:55am PT
up..
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 10, 2014 - 12:51pm PT
BlackSpider, that link ain't werkin'. Maybe it's temporary?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2014 - 02:00pm PT
Nick of Time Bump...
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Jun 26, 2014 - 09:26pm PT
as bumpy as I wanna be
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2014 - 08:42am PT
Grand adventure bump...
Psilocyborg

climber
Sep 8, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
what an amazing read.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2014 - 11:53am PT
Bump for the Alpine Climbing Jones...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2015 - 09:05am PT
Should be a good year for the Rubblies...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2016 - 11:49am PT
Tis the season bump...
crackfiend

climber
Springdale, Utah
Jul 24, 2016 - 07:14pm PT
Oh man, what a climb. Legendary status. thanks for the bump
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jul 24, 2016 - 07:46pm PT
The writing is understated, a masterwork of craft, brilliant. I remember reading this when it was first published. For all these decades, this article has served as a sort of personal Rosetta stone, a talisman for me to consult whenever I hiked a hard rock climb and needed a proper translation to underscore just how fabulously fun and silly and meager our antics were on those sunny California crags.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2017 - 07:15pm PT
Here is a thread Jim Brennan started about the first repeat of the North Pillar route.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2297509/North-Pillar-of-the-North-Twin-Repeated
okay, whatever

climber
Jun 21, 2017 - 07:49pm PT
Anyone who remembers that account in Ascent, and maybe more telling, the accompanying photos, will realize that the north face of North Twin is a very, very real challenge (not that I ever did it). To climb it, you have to hump loads a very long way, deal with less than ideal Canadian Rockies rock and weather, and you're a long way from anywhere if things go bad. And they didn't have cell phones in the 1970's, needless to say. And crampons and ice tools and gear in general were obviously not as finely tuned as they are now. George and Chris were on the edge, by their own admissions, but they made it.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Jun 21, 2017 - 07:56pm PT
arguably the finest example of alpine climbing in North America during the 20th century. Stellar from every angle.
okay, whatever

climber
Jun 21, 2017 - 08:11pm PT
Yes. Another sort of put-your-neck-on-the-line route in Canada was the Central Couloir on Mt. Kitchener. I can't remember what team did the first ascent of that, but I think Mugs Stump was part of it? Maybe with Jim Logan?
Messages 161 - 180 of total 186 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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