North Twin- North Face G.Lowe & C.Jones Ascent 75-76

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 161 - 180 of total 190 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
nah000

Mountain climber
canuckistan
Feb 19, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
here's cheesmond's very short writeup about his, kallen and friesen's summer 82 attempt of the lowe/jones.

there's a note in gadd/scott/dornian's The Yam: 50 Years of Climbing on Yamnuska mentioning steve demaio and ward robinson's late 80's attempt of the nt [p. 106]. all it really says is "we didn't get very far".

ian welsted wrote up his attempt with chris brazeau in summer 04. the article is in the 2005 canadian alpine journal and is titled dead. if i understand correctly, over two days, welsted/brazeau made about 30 raps on a single 50 m line to get off the face after rockfall broke welsted's arm. crazy intense story.

jason kruk has made a couple of attempts recently. one with hayden kennedy in spring 11 and another with jon walsh in summer 11.

as far as writeups regarding other partial attempts i don't remember seeing any. but if there are more out there, i too would be interested in knowing where i can find them.

with the likes of blanchard and house chiming in, this thread has been an awesome one. it'd be cool to see more first hand accounts continue to come out of the woodwork. i'm sure there is still a lot of oral history floating about.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Feb 19, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
on apparent armchair mountaineers (coast climbers are not Rockies climbers fyi)"


haha! I didn't see that little dig first time around! Who you calling arm chair you little slagg baggin' pud knocker? Real Beer? in Al-fukin -butthurtin' -burta? not likely. Anyway anytime you want to escape that gravel quarry you guys call climbing come on out and we'll show you both quality beer and quality rock and we won't even have the gall to call ourselves Moontaine Geede and invoice you for our time!
Brandon P

Mountain climber
Canmore
Feb 21, 2013 - 03:11am PT
Tim F is still around. I climb with him, Urs Kallen, Andy G, Trevor Jones once a month at the indoor cave in Calgary.
The boys are keen! Led by Urs Kallen!
These guys are retired, experienced and searching keen dudes on the regular, it is hard to keep up.

If you want to know more I have aimed to know much about Rockies history.
Email away: bmpullan@gmail.com

Cheers,
Brandon
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Feb 21, 2013 - 11:50am PT
I think the fa of the Wall of Shadows(Kennedy/Childs) ranks pretty high as well

It's pretty amazing that so many outstanding alpine first ascents have a Lowe associated with them.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Jun 3, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
this thread always gets my mojo flowing
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Sep 9, 2013 - 07:08pm PT
tired of seeing inferior threads rise (if that's the word) to the top
Brandon P

Mountain climber
Canmore
Sep 13, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
Jon Walsh and Josh Wharton just repeated the North Pillar, the Blanchard/Cheesmond route!
http://gripped.com/2013/09/sections/news/history-is-made-walsh-and-wharton-climb-north-pillar-on-north-twins-north-face/
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 14, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
well done! I certainly hope JR took plenty of pictures
nah000

climber
canuckistan
Sep 15, 2013 - 09:47am PT
sweet stuff.

Brandon P [or anyone else who knows]:

in your [at least i'm guessing you're brandon pullan] gripped write up you say this is the fifth ascent of the face.

who nabbed the fourth?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 15, 2013 - 11:06am PT
I think BP himself did, if the NW ridge is considered part of the face

I get 7 ascents with the ridge included:



1). Fa nw ridge, h Abrons et al.

2). Fa. N face, Lowe/ jones

3) fa Traverse of the Chickens, cheese / freisen / kallen

4) Fa n pillar bubba / cheese

5) house / pretzel route

6)) Repeat nw ridge. BP and partner

7). Repeat n pillar, jr / jw



I have a hard time thinking of a more magnificent, challenging and aesthetic alpine rock climb in the whole of North America than the North pillar of north Twin. Best on the continent with few rivals when you stack up all the attributes. It is remarkable how little mention this recent 2 nd ascent gets here while the squabbles about how many bolts go into a 100 foot slab goes on add infinitum! I guess this stuff isn't,t for everyone but anyone concerned about running out of sack terrain always has the north pillar of north twin in their back pocket.

I eagerly look forward to the tale and photos. The final head wall must be out of this world!

Next repeat that has gone on for too long..... dickey wine bottle buttress. The Cali granite boys shouldn't,t have too much of a problem with this one
BlackSpider

Ice climber
Sep 15, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
Question for those in the know: is there any chance the obvious diretissima (basically straight down from the summit, splitting the space between the Lowe-Jones and North Pillar routes) could go, or is there just no line there?
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Sep 15, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
Great bump
Spectacular ascent
Brandon P

Mountain climber
Canmore
Sep 15, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
I was not including the ridge climb.
Of the North Face:
74 FA Jones/Lowe
83? FA Traverse of the Chickens Freisen/Cheesmond
85 FA Bubba/Cheesmond
04 FA House/Prez (April, winter conditions)
13 Walsh/Wharton repeat Bubba route

North Ridge
65 Abrons
12 Myself/Welsted

I think the direct line has not been done because of a number of reasons, one being the lack of a consistent line. Walsh and Kruk had climbed all new ground on their last attempt on the headwall, I am not sure where they were, before Jon had his foot bashed by rock fall.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
Did you guys have as dry a summer as we did in Seattle?

Dry rock is crucial for the Blanchard-Cheesmond at 5.10d mandatory free climbing.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Sep 15, 2013 - 05:16pm PT
Bruce Kay why someone would head to the Ruth is beyond my. Don't get me wrong it's a cool spot but there's bigger and better stuff up here. I can think of a dozen peaks with the relief of Dickey that have virgin summits and twice that many that have only one or two routes. Are you still active in the alpine climbing game? I need some more partners. Here a shot of a 3000' virgin spire in front of a 7500' virgin face on a 14,000' peak that has been summited only twice. Kevin took this photo while we were rapping off of another virgin peak after getting spanked.

.
Photo Kevin Ditzler
Photo Kevin Ditzler
Credit: johnkelley
Brandon P

Mountain climber
Canmore
Sep 15, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
Driest September in years in the Rockies.
Here is an update after beers with Jon, Josh, Barry: http://gripped.com/2013/09/sections/news/history-is-made-walsh-and-wharton-climb-north-pillar-on-north-twins-north-face/

Jon Walsh, Josh Wharton and Bubba hangin at the Georgetown Pub in Canm...
Jon Walsh, Josh Wharton and Bubba hangin at the Georgetown Pub in Canmore the night of their return.
Credit: Brandon P
FortMentäl

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Sep 15, 2013 - 06:29pm PT


Holy crap! Look at the ice climb just to GET to that thing!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Sep 15, 2013 - 08:02pm PT
Mental you beat me to it. Johnkelly that thing looks sick. Could you tell me where it is please?
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Sep 15, 2013 - 11:15pm PT
I'll tell you if I'm lucky enough to get up it
nah000

climber
canuckistan
Sep 16, 2013 - 01:19am PT
this is from the 1983 aaj and is written by cheesmond:

"In July 1982, Urs Kallen, Tim Friesen and I attempted to repeat the Lowe-Jones route on North Twin's north face. We were four days on the face but were unable to do the final wall as it was streaming with water caused by unusually warm conditions. Instead we traversed left to the ridge and followed this to the summit. We then crossed the icefield to the highway. We believe this is the most difficult face yet climbed in the Canadian Rockies. It still awaits a second ascent eight years after the first."

considering the above statement, cheesmond himself didn't consider his, friesen and kallen's 1982 climb to have been a successful ascent of the face. combining this and that any other public record considers house/prezelj to have made the third ascent of the face proper, i'd say it's a strange bit of historical revisionism to suddenly consider the walsh/wharton ascent the fifth.

pedantry aside, sweet shIt. always inspiring to hear about big stuff going down in your backyard.
Messages 161 - 180 of total 190 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews