North Twin- North Face G.Lowe & C.Jones Ascent 75-76

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Messages 161 - 180 of total 183 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Brandon P

Mountain climber
Canmore
Sep 13, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
Jon Walsh and Josh Wharton just repeated the North Pillar, the Blanchard/Cheesmond route!
http://gripped.com/2013/09/sections/news/history-is-made-walsh-and-wharton-climb-north-pillar-on-north-twins-north-face/
nah000

climber
canuckistan
Sep 15, 2013 - 09:47am PT
sweet stuff.

Brandon P [or anyone else who knows]:

in your [at least i'm guessing you're brandon pullan] gripped write up you say this is the fifth ascent of the face.

who nabbed the fourth?
BlackSpider

Ice climber
Sep 15, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
Question for those in the know: is there any chance the obvious diretissima (basically straight down from the summit, splitting the space between the Lowe-Jones and North Pillar routes) could go, or is there just no line there?
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Sep 15, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
Great bump
Spectacular ascent
Brandon P

Mountain climber
Canmore
Sep 15, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
I was not including the ridge climb.
Of the North Face:
74 FA Jones/Lowe
83? FA Traverse of the Chickens Freisen/Cheesmond
85 FA Bubba/Cheesmond
04 FA House/Prez (April, winter conditions)
13 Walsh/Wharton repeat Bubba route

North Ridge
65 Abrons
12 Myself/Welsted

I think the direct line has not been done because of a number of reasons, one being the lack of a consistent line. Walsh and Kruk had climbed all new ground on their last attempt on the headwall, I am not sure where they were, before Jon had his foot bashed by rock fall.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
Did you guys have as dry a summer as we did in Seattle?

Dry rock is crucial for the Blanchard-Cheesmond at 5.10d mandatory free climbing.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Sep 15, 2013 - 05:16pm PT
Bruce Kay why someone would head to the Ruth is beyond my. Don't get me wrong it's a cool spot but there's bigger and better stuff up here. I can think of a dozen peaks with the relief of Dickey that have virgin summits and twice that many that have only one or two routes. Are you still active in the alpine climbing game? I need some more partners. Here a shot of a 3000' virgin spire in front of a 7500' virgin face on a 14,000' peak that has been summited only twice. Kevin took this photo while we were rapping off of another virgin peak after getting spanked.

.
Photo Kevin Ditzler
Photo Kevin Ditzler
Credit: johnkelley
Brandon P

Mountain climber
Canmore
Sep 15, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
Driest September in years in the Rockies.
Here is an update after beers with Jon, Josh, Barry: http://gripped.com/2013/09/sections/news/history-is-made-walsh-and-wharton-climb-north-pillar-on-north-twins-north-face/

Jon Walsh, Josh Wharton and Bubba hangin at the Georgetown Pub in Canm...
Jon Walsh, Josh Wharton and Bubba hangin at the Georgetown Pub in Canmore the night of their return.
Credit: Brandon P
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Sep 15, 2013 - 08:02pm PT
Mental you beat me to it. Johnkelly that thing looks sick. Could you tell me where it is please?
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Sep 15, 2013 - 11:15pm PT
I'll tell you if I'm lucky enough to get up it
nah000

climber
canuckistan
Sep 16, 2013 - 01:19am PT
this is from the 1983 aaj and is written by cheesmond:

"In July 1982, Urs Kallen, Tim Friesen and I attempted to repeat the Lowe-Jones route on North Twin's north face. We were four days on the face but were unable to do the final wall as it was streaming with water caused by unusually warm conditions. Instead we traversed left to the ridge and followed this to the summit. We then crossed the icefield to the highway. We believe this is the most difficult face yet climbed in the Canadian Rockies. It still awaits a second ascent eight years after the first."

considering the above statement, cheesmond himself didn't consider his, friesen and kallen's 1982 climb to have been a successful ascent of the face. combining this and that any other public record considers house/prezelj to have made the third ascent of the face proper, i'd say it's a strange bit of historical revisionism to suddenly consider the walsh/wharton ascent the fifth.

pedantry aside, sweet shIt. always inspiring to hear about big stuff going down in your backyard.
Brandon P

Mountain climber
Canmore
Sep 16, 2013 - 10:41am PT
Very true.
But, House himself considers this the fifth ascent of the face, as he tweeted after they sent.
Originally I had it as the fourth, but after House said it was the fifth, well... he is Steve House.
nah000

climber
canuckistan
Sep 16, 2013 - 11:58am PT
interesting.

i still find that position and logic strange and strained, even if it is coming from house.

i'd find it less strange if all the press that house/prezelj received had touted their ascent as the fourth.

i.e. was there a change of heart on house's part in the intervening years, or has he always held this position and just doesn't read/contribute to the press he receives? it'd be great if he chimed in again as i'm sure he has strong reasons for stating what he has.

either way i'm definitely spearheading a discussion that trends towards determining the number of angels on pin heads ... so, another congrats to walsh/wharton to keep this somewhat balanced. and definitely a big kudos to anyone who's climbed out of that hole via whatever means. having been to the woolley shoulder, i know how little justice the pictures of that side of the north twin serve.

Brandon P, you previously mentioned you climb regularly with kallen.

you should see if he'd be willing to pull up a chair to this campfire. i'm sure there is a more interesting story to be told about his/friesen/cheesmond's climb than the five lines that exist in the caj and aaj.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Sep 16, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
Jon Walsh just keeps on going. He has an impressive list of big climbs done very quickly in good style.
BlackSpider

Ice climber
Sep 16, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
Jon Walsh's trip report:

http://www.alpinestyle.ca/2013/09/16/the_north_pillar

The most significant North American alpine ascent in years, and he's still so modest and understated.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Sep 21, 2013 - 12:37am PT
It would be best if I knew before then.
Johnny K.

climber
Jan 10, 2014 - 09:55am PT
up..
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 10, 2014 - 12:51pm PT
BlackSpider, that link ain't werkin'. Maybe it's temporary?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2014 - 02:00pm PT
Nick of Time Bump...
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Jun 26, 2014 - 09:26pm PT
as bumpy as I wanna be
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