North Twin- North Face G.Lowe & C.Jones Ascent 75-76

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Messages 141 - 160 of total 184 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Feb 10, 2013 - 04:25pm PT
is it possible to romp around there alone shooting photos of the faces, or do the glaciers and terrain make solo travel inadvisable? haven't been up there, so I don't really know what to expect

edit: happy to "Norman Clyde fourth class" it, just don't want to fall into a crevasse or walk off a cornice
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
Dig Reilly, Dig!!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
Chris recently informed me that I had left out the fourth and fifth pages now posted from the OP.

I wonder if George ever recovered this singular and classic helmet which famously went missing for a while.

eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Feb 16, 2013 - 08:24pm PT
Just climbed with George this afternoon. Among other things, we did Handcracker on the West Ridge at Eldorado. Now even though BOTH of us had done it about a year ago, between the two of us we missed the middle two pitches, ascending crappy gullies instead. In our defense, the wind was fierce and it was hard to hear (and, in retrospect I'm thinking, hard to think). Got me to "thinking" what if it was hard to hear AND we had been up there for 4 days AND we were on a route that had never been done before and that we might be lost on AND it was cold and snowy AND we were running out of food AND it was way harder AND it was frigging the North Face Of North Twin or something. But then I remembered, I only do rock climbing and I still need to get some shopping done before dinner with the wife.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
Ask George if he ever got his helmet back! I never heard the ending of that story.

And while you are at it, get him to chime in.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Feb 16, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
Moonflower (to the summit) wasn't a shabby climb, but I'd agree that Loew-Jones is probably the highwater mark of North American alpinsm

edit: maybe Waterman in Alaska. Crazy-super-fukkd-up-gonzo. Wow.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Feb 16, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
George is certainly aware of Supertopo but is not inclined to spray in any way (unlike me). I think that anything he could say would sound like spraying to him, so he's not likely to do it.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
Can't keep a fella from trying...and I have been with George.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Feb 16, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
Not in the biblical sense I hope.
nah000

Mountain climber
canuckistan
Feb 16, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
while there are other contenders, [based on my reading and mental speculation, the moose's tooth, dance of the woo li masters, stump/bridwell, 1981, would be the one i'd make a case for], the reason why it's hard to not see the north face of north twin as a pinnacle of north american alpinism, is the point in history that it was climbed.

1974.

here we are almost 40 years later and the face, as a whole, has still only been climbed to completion three times. and so in 2013 these discussions are still based on first hand accounts that, to my knowledge, number in the single digits. [that's including the published partial attempts.]

and so while there is a list of late 70's / early 80's alaskan climbs that are likely of comparable difficulty/commitment/duration, like conrad kain's climbs of the 1910's, george lowe's climbs of the 70's in general [and the nf of nt in particular] were definitely way out there relative to the time that he climbed in.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 17, 2013 - 01:40am PT
Most people head up After Six with a bigger rack than what those guys started with.
What did they finish with, a dozen pieces?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
Talking trying not plying with respect to George. Besides what DIDN'T folks do in the Old Testament? LOL

Over a glass of wine, Greg Lowe told me that George was in the habit of paring down the rack to the minimum only to bitch about the shortage once climbing. Doing the adventure dance to an old school tune.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Feb 18, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
I was thinking today of how George Lowe, whom I have not met, has influenced my climbing, and three things came immediately to mind: first, his uncanny ability to spot "the line" (e.g., in addition to North Twin, the Infinite Spur, the Kennedy-Lowe on Hunter, the Black Ice/West Face, etc.); second, his single-minded commitment to the climb (obviously); third and perhaps most personally relevant, as far as I can tell, he wasn't/isn't a guy who climbed/climbs 300 days per year -- maybe not even 50 days in any given year. It's one thing to hike the Cassin when you've been guiding the West Butt all season long and are 25 years old, but quite another if you're a thirty-something cube monkey using all 3 weeks of his vacation.

So GL has been a big influence on me, for sure. I hope I get a chance to see him at an AAC or other event.
Brandon P

Mountain climber
Canmore
Feb 19, 2013 - 04:02am PT
Cool Forum.
Lots of rad facts and cool opinions.

This summer Ian Welsted and I made the fastest ascent car to car out of the Black Hole via the Abron Route (North Ridge) of the Twin. Under 30 hours car to car. 2nd ascent of the route.
Here is the write up:
http://brandopullan.blogspot.ca/2012/08/north-twin-via-black-hole.html

Try writing some local Rockies climbers for further info instead of relying on apparent armchair mountaineers (coast climbers are not Rockies climbers fyi)
All Canadian ascent. Welsted tried the face a few years ago but after rock fall shattered his arm they made a 2 day descent from near the top of the North Pillar, bad ass! Ian is the stoke factor that drove the first all Canadian ascent of Twins Tower this year out of the black hole. Rockies climbers... well... we are kinda the real meal deal(in terms of we drink Canadian beer and eat Canadian Beef). No we did not do the North Face proper we climbed just to the right because during that time of year it is suicide.
O Canada eh!

Peace,
Brandon Pullan

PS: Pick up the next issue of the Canadian Alpine Journal for further details.

RDB

Social climber
wa
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
"Try writing some local Rockies climbers for further info instead of relying on apparent armchair mountaineers (coast climbers are not Rockies climbers fyi)"

Nice :) I like it!
nah000

Mountain climber
canuckistan
Feb 19, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
here's cheesmond's very short writeup about his, kallen and friesen's summer 82 attempt of the lowe/jones.

there's a note in gadd/scott/dornian's The Yam: 50 Years of Climbing on Yamnuska mentioning steve demaio and ward robinson's late 80's attempt of the nt [p. 106]. all it really says is "we didn't get very far".

ian welsted wrote up his attempt with chris brazeau in summer 04. the article is in the 2005 canadian alpine journal and is titled dead. if i understand correctly, over two days, welsted/brazeau made about 30 raps on a single 50 m line to get off the face after rockfall broke welsted's arm. crazy intense story.

jason kruk has made a couple of attempts recently. one with hayden kennedy in spring 11 and another with jon walsh in summer 11.

as far as writeups regarding other partial attempts i don't remember seeing any. but if there are more out there, i too would be interested in knowing where i can find them.

with the likes of blanchard and house chiming in, this thread has been an awesome one. it'd be cool to see more first hand accounts continue to come out of the woodwork. i'm sure there is still a lot of oral history floating about.
Brandon P

Mountain climber
Canmore
Feb 21, 2013 - 03:11am PT
Tim F is still around. I climb with him, Urs Kallen, Andy G, Trevor Jones once a month at the indoor cave in Calgary.
The boys are keen! Led by Urs Kallen!
These guys are retired, experienced and searching keen dudes on the regular, it is hard to keep up.

If you want to know more I have aimed to know much about Rockies history.
Email away: bmpullan@gmail.com

Cheers,
Brandon
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Feb 21, 2013 - 11:50am PT
I think the fa of the Wall of Shadows(Kennedy/Childs) ranks pretty high as well

It's pretty amazing that so many outstanding alpine first ascents have a Lowe associated with them.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Jun 3, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
this thread always gets my mojo flowing
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Sep 9, 2013 - 07:08pm PT
tired of seeing inferior threads rise (if that's the word) to the top
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