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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Jun 11, 2009 - 11:44pm PT
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anointed one averred I hate people who have their gates facing the opposite direction on their draws.
Please convince us that this configuration has negative effects.
(The draw in the linked pic is upside down though.)
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Oct 18, 2016 - 08:48am PT
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Good thing Samsung didn't make draws...
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Oct 18, 2016 - 01:53pm PT
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Always rack under! Spine of the caribiner through the bolt. If you rack over (clip the bolt by pushing the caribiner hook through from above) the gate will hit the bolt as the draw pulls upward. This happens when a bolthanger is loose and gets horizontal or when a bolt was errantly placed. Over time, bolts get sideways from draws yanking up when climbers fall or dog higher on the route. Its worse than backclipping. The gate opens and gets snarelled on the bolt.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Oct 18, 2016 - 02:08pm PT
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Petch, it worked out for your situation, but statistically it is an unlikely outcome.
There is about a 2-3 foot vertical range where a horizontal body position is helpful to avoid leg impact. If you had fallen a little farther, at that point being horizontal would lead to crushed organs and bleeding to death, versus "just" broken legs.
I think jstan was trying to make a public service announcement that if you have to hedge your bets, you are better off trying to keep upright and use your legs as shock absorbers rather than staying horizontal and hoping to avoid any damage at all.
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