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deepuan
Ice climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 11, 2009 - 09:15am PT
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So i was out climbing today and my friend and i were warming up on an easy 5.8. He lead it, left the draws up and then i was going to lead it.
I clipped the first bolt fine, clipped the second bolt fine and as i made my moves to get above the 2nd bolt, i looked down to see my quickdraw unclip itself from the bolt hanger and slide down to the first bolt.
I didnt backclip or anything, it was just spooky cause i immediately realized i would deck if i fell. anyways has this ever happened to anyone else? how does it happen and how can i avoid it in the future?
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troutboy
Trad climber
Newark, DE
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Jun 11, 2009 - 09:45am PT
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I didnt backclip or anything, it was just spooky cause i immediately realized i would deck if i fell. anyways has this ever happened to anyone else? how does it happen and how can i avoid it in the future?
Easy, don't sport climb :)
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Nor Cal
Trad climber
San Mateo
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Jun 11, 2009 - 10:03am PT
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I was on shagadellic last summer and I had a quick draw unclip from the bolt. I watched it spin down the rope and come to rest on the draw below it.
This was one of the only "sport" climbs I did last year. Guess that is one more reasons to climb trad. I can remember the last time a nut lifted out on me!
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jun 11, 2009 - 10:22am PT
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It's pretty rare, but not unheard of. Much, much more common is that the upper biner on the draw (i.e. the bolt-side biner) will hang up such that the biner is totally cross-loaded or in a position where it will unclip if you fall. This happens all the time, and often self-corrects with some rope jiggling (often without even trying). If you fall on a totally cross-loaded biner, especially if it's hung up at the base of the gate (most common), the biner is far more likely to break.
A (less dangerous) cousin of the self-unclipping draw is the self-unclipping gear from your harness or rack - something gets tangled up or somehow unclips itself, and there goes your favorite draw/cam/etc. Happened to one of my favorite draws when rapping from Middle Cathedral in the rain.
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
I don't even know any more
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Jun 11, 2009 - 10:36am PT
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On the flip side, I got my (double-knotted) shoelace clipped into a draw, at foot level, at the crux on a sport route once.
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Petch
Gym climber
Lover's Leap
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Jun 11, 2009 - 12:38pm PT
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I was working a FA(The White Scar 12b, Hannahs Hideout)for the second day. When I got up to my highpoint, which was the second bolt, I clipped a draw on the hanger leaving the bail beener from the previos day. The draw was on top of the bail beener not through it. After several falls, I let my partner try, with no luck and falls. I attempted it again fell several times. On my last attempt the quick draw came off and I was lucky to start flipping upside down. I stopped a few feet above the ground totally horizontal, which saved me from breaking my legs.
Lessoned learned: Always clip your draw under any bail beeners or just remove them completely.
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WallMan
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Jun 11, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
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If you are at a good stance - with crux above - the obvious remedy is to clip two opposite and opposed draws to the bolt - or a draw with lockers.
Similar concept with trad climbing - two bomber pieces before a crux move if you are at a good stance with good gear placement opportunities.
Climb Ohn.
Wally
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 11, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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In an inherently dangerous activity, qd's unclipping themselves from bolts is way down the list of bad things that can happen- don't loose any sleep. Besides, in most "modern" sport climbs, the next bolt is only a body length lower.
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Jun 11, 2009 - 04:09pm PT
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Maybe a quick-draw, or the one you were using, was simply the wrong equipment for the line.
Consider carrying biners on runners in addition to quick draws. They can be extended readily to match the line and are less likely as a result to perform "biner-gymnastics" as you progress above.
I have witness very experienced and capable trad climbers clip gear with draws and then watched them fight the rope drag imposed by the rope getting pinched between the biner and the rock.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jun 11, 2009 - 04:57pm PT
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Had the rope unclip from a slung green camalot last year. kicked it with my foot as i went by and the wiregate biner slapped against the rock and the rope popped out slicker than cat sh#t on linolium. same thing happened last winter with an ice screw.
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jstan
climber
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Jun 11, 2009 - 05:01pm PT
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The trick is to reach six inches to the right or left and get a bomber cam placement in the crack. Mucho bueno.
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S.Leeper
Sport climber
Austin, Texas
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Jun 11, 2009 - 05:12pm PT
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"On the flip side, I got my (double-knotted) shoelace clipped into a draw, at foot level, at the crux on a sport route once."
Did you unclip it before you fell?
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Jun 11, 2009 - 05:17pm PT
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He said "flip side"...
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jstan
climber
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Jun 11, 2009 - 05:19pm PT
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Petch:
Next time, break your legs. Your legs are intended to be your shock absorbing system.
You were that close to being in the worst of all possible positions.
Edit:
If you have not been warned about this, you need to take corrective action.
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Petch
Gym climber
Lover's Leap
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Jun 11, 2009 - 09:57pm PT
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Jstan, I pretty happy with the outcome I had. No broken legs or neck!
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Jun 11, 2009 - 10:10pm PT
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Past performance being a perfect predictor of future results, and all....
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Jun 11, 2009 - 11:15pm PT
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Sounds like some kinda black magic voodoo shizz.
We'll have no part o' that!
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