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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jun 29, 2009 - 01:38pm PT
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yes hardmannknot,
someone posted that the anchors had been re-installed. then deleted the post.
we are dealing with little boys (or girls?) here.
maybe just outta high school? i'm guessing this based on their conduct and demeaner.
these kind are simple to deal with.
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ChirpioBartholomew
Boulder climber
Dixon
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Jul 15, 2009 - 05:25pm PT
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"Anchors with rappel rings were also added to the top where good gear and three solid pins made up the original anchor." Salamanizer
Salamizer "the Chopper" chopped the bolts but left the pins.
Gerbals - Of course the anchors are manky. The good one's got pinched. Why? Because Salamizer" the Chopper" stole the good anchors to put them on his own project.
"And those chains have already been donated to "re"-bolting a worn out rappel anchor at the leap.................. These sorts of situations are unfortunate, but no one owns the rock and we all have to find a way to get along." Salamanizer
fattrad - Ever climbed in Yosemite?
Salamanizer - Are you trying to tell people that old routes can't have modern conveniences?
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jul 15, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
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Chirpio, it's against ASCA policy to replace pins with bolts except in special circumstances. Especially since many piton anchors are not original.
I've emailed you - please contact me. Thanks.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Jul 15, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
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"Are you trying to tell people that old routes can't have modern conveniences?"
Seriously?
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ChirpioBartholomew
Boulder climber
Dixon
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Jul 16, 2009 - 10:06am PT
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Greg- What defines special circumstances? Bail slings?
slobmonster - Salamanizer "the Chopper" seems to be the judge on that one
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jul 16, 2009 - 12:12pm PT
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What defines special circumstances is, for instance:
 manky anchor with at least one original bolt, plus various pitons, fixed hexes, knot jams, slung now-dead tree, etc. This is the only case where we normally replace with bolts - the key being at least one original bolt.
trees getting damaged and the climbing community is totally behind replacing with bolts.
original piton anchor required for rappel where the climbing community is behind it.
request from the FA team to replace their original rappel anchor(s) with bolts, and the climbing community is OK with it (for instance the Speed of Life anchors, where both members of the FA team asked us to fix up the mess).
replacement of key pro piton with bolt when there's no modern pro, the community is behind it, and the FA(s) are fine with it. And the opposite is true - when the FA and/or community is not behind it, no replacement.
I'm not saying that this isn't a case of an original anchor where nearly everyone was behind it (minus one person), but you need to talk to us before replacing piton anchors with bolts. Is there a walk off? Is there pro for a belay if the pins are removed?
I've had the OK from FAs to replace original piton anchors with bolts, then after pulling the pins and cleaning the crack, found that the crack takes bomber gear and so bolts were not needed. Yes, it changed the nature of the route - fixed anchor to no fixed anchor - but the route was not originally rappelled, and bolts were not needed. And in the immediate term, it changed the nature of the belay from a nasty-old-pitons in dirty crack (sketchy) to clean crack with no pins in the way of cams (not sketchy).
But regardless, the ASCA policy is very simple: one-for-one bolt replacement, anything else you need to talk to us (and nearly always the community) before acting.
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ChirpioBartholomew
Boulder climber
Dixon
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Jul 16, 2009 - 12:22pm PT
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Greg - Thanks for clarifying
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WhyCantGerbalsDrive
climber
Lee Vining, CA
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Jul 19, 2009 - 04:38pm PT
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foothill choppers at it again, fandango anchors stolen for the second time this month. you were right kasang.
locals will rap this route until the end of time...
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bwancy1
Trad climber
Here
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Jul 20, 2009 - 11:38am PT
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Greg,
Can we find the ASCA rebolting policy on the web?
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ChirpioBartholomew
Boulder climber
Dixon
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Jul 25, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
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So what say you Salamanizer
You "The Chopper" gave options above.
What say you.
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Joe Monectose
Big Wall climber
Oakdale, CA
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Jul 25, 2009 - 08:45pm PT
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what's up with this rap route? is it still there? mixed details on this site.
thanks, joe
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jul 27, 2009 - 11:15am PT
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i must rappel. i must rappel.
i must rappel. i must rappel.
i must rappel. i must rappel.
FREEDOM to rappel is MINE. all MINE.
you maybe should try a different brand of coffee.
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ChirpioBartholomew
Boulder climber
Dixon
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Jul 30, 2009 - 10:21am PT
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Joe- I did the rappel Sunday. No problems but did have to leave some tat at the top anchor.
Bird
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