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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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I too have climbed at many of the Bay area crags, once. They suck, bad.
People who have any experience climbing on the Seward Highway know about the crags up in the woods away from the highway with no traffic noise, very climbable rock and a view gazing out across Cook Inlet and the Alaska Range. You can also be on a route 30 minutes or less from leaving your desk and you can climb all night. There's something to be said for that.
I've climbed at many crags that are eons worse than that.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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The climbs along the Patapsco River in Baltimore County have that distinct local flavor of rust belt decay and make Carder Rock worthy of visiting despite its destination rating...
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OR
Trad climber
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What was that chosspile behind the elementary school in San Fran? It had some crack/seam thing and the footholds were worn to a glassy sheen. That was something special. It actually had some history to it though.
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OR
Trad climber
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HAHA!! thats it. It's been 25 years. Funny how a pic can bring back some very vivid memories.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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I am pretty sure nobody else has been there, but the cut in Newbury NH is one of the worst places to climb in the country.
I learned how to climb there, and was blown away when I finally visited better venues.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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I am going to second the earlier vote for Carderock. That place is horrific!
Uhhh, I guess you need to see some more shyteful crags.
Carderock isn't even in the top ten.
On a weekday out there, in winter, there were few people around climbing.
This wasn't BITD, this was 2006-2008.
Reasonably warm temps, quiet space for being on the edge of a giant city, nice setting next to the river, and few, if any, holds breaking or crumbling.
If I climbed a lot of things unroped there, it can't be that bad....
I've climbed in a helluva lot worse places and I haven't been all over the country.
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deschamps
Trad climber
Out and about
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Jacks is about 100 times better than Carderrock outside of DC. Carderrock gets my vote for the worse place I have ever climbed. Everything seems to be 20 or 25 feet tall and the rock is the most river polished friction-less rock I have ever climbed.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Probably the worst crags I've spent any rope time on are Mt. Erie (Washington), Mission Gorge (San Diego), and Devil's Punchbowl (north of L.A. over the Angeles Crest).
BUT...
a.) It's not their fault, and;
b.) I can have fun on just about any crag, and would go to all of them again.
Climb on.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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The worst crag is better than the best workplace. Ummmm.....except for the Seward Highway and then there is.....
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Big Piton
Trad climber
Ventura
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Mt Williamson in the Angeles Forest by far.
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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Carderock is one of the most important sites in US climbing history, it's slick because people have been toeing those footholds with river sand on their boots since the 20's. Complaining about the friction there is like kvetching that all the good pin placements on the nose are beat out. It's true that there are a couple of elimination routes there, but they aren't squeeze jobs, just people's attempts to challenge themselves for training and for fun over the years.
John will definitely talk your ear off if you hold still long enough and sometimes gets a little heavy with the beta, but he's also a dude over 70 who probably climbs 200 days a year and solos 60 foot 5.9's when the mood strikes him. If you want to spend your energy hating a guy like that, that's on you.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Donini for the win.
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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index--
mostly rainy 9 months out of the year
inbred locals that don't seem to climb any place else
shooting range going off all day long
edit: ok, 2nd thoughts. guess what i was getting at was this could be a great local crag, the climbing and location are fantastic. but, it does rain there most of the year, didn't appreciate attitude when simply asking for beta on a rack my first visit there, then add to that the ambiance of climbing in a fire fight...
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MisterE
Social climber
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FTOR, you must be trolling - Index RULES! Land of the 5.11 crack...3 months out of the year. I just figured that the people at the gun range were already good, and just there to get better.
Or so I told myself...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Yeah Mr. E, dissing Index is quite a stretch. My favorite area when I lived in Seattle.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Temporarily Chapel Hill
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Dang! I sure struck a nerve with Carderock! I understand it's significance in history and it CERTAINLY is better than not climbing at all.
I guess I got turned off by the massive waits to get on very uninspiring climbs all the while being hosed down by spray coming from every direction.
Perhaps I do need to go there on a weekday to experience the glory of this place!
-Roger
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bit'er ol' guy
climber
the past
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The Columns in the Truckee River Canyon
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MisterE
Social climber
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A show of hands - who DOESN'T like to bag on their own local worst climbing area?
I thought so...
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