One of the Five Worst Crags

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bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
May 3, 2012 - 12:24pm PT
I too have climbed at many of the Bay area crags, once. They suck, bad.

People who have any experience climbing on the Seward Highway know about the crags up in the woods away from the highway with no traffic noise, very climbable rock and a view gazing out across Cook Inlet and the Alaska Range. You can also be on a route 30 minutes or less from leaving your desk and you can climb all night. There's something to be said for that.

I've climbed at many crags that are eons worse than that.
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
May 3, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
The climbs along the Patapsco River in Baltimore County have that distinct local flavor of rust belt decay and make Carder Rock worthy of visiting despite its destination rating...
OR

Trad climber
May 3, 2012 - 03:10pm PT
What was that chosspile behind the elementary school in San Fran? It had some crack/seam thing and the footholds were worn to a glassy sheen. That was something special. It actually had some history to it though.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
May 3, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
Sounds like Beaver St. wall.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/San_Francisco_Bay/Beaver_St_/

As far a $hitty crags go, I say that a $hitty crag is way the hell better than no crag at all.
OR

Trad climber
May 3, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
HAHA!! thats it. It's been 25 years. Funny how a pic can bring back some very vivid memories.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
May 3, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
^^^^^
There are crags in this guide that are far worse than anything mentioned-- Here is only one example:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/Orange_County/5_Minute_Crag/


AND, Check out what people have to say about this GEM:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1062970

___

In contrast, most of the climbing areas cited by others up-thread as bad are pretty fun.

__

I really like The Riverside Quarry. It has many brilliant climbs and can look kinda nice in the Spring when the hills are green. But otherwise it has a war-torn atmosphere to it.

There is also the potential for large bits of rock to become detached from the wall -- particularly as the glue ages.

It is a place to avoid on weekends when the gym climbing crowd swarm the routes, pull off holds and don't know enough to yell "Rock!"
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
May 3, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
I am pretty sure nobody else has been there, but the cut in Newbury NH is one of the worst places to climb in the country.

I learned how to climb there, and was blown away when I finally visited better venues.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
May 3, 2012 - 04:47pm PT
I am going to second the earlier vote for Carderock. That place is horrific!

Uhhh, I guess you need to see some more shyteful crags.
Carderock isn't even in the top ten.

On a weekday out there, in winter, there were few people around climbing.
This wasn't BITD, this was 2006-2008.

Reasonably warm temps, quiet space for being on the edge of a giant city, nice setting next to the river, and few, if any, holds breaking or crumbling.

If I climbed a lot of things unroped there, it can't be that bad....

I've climbed in a helluva lot worse places and I haven't been all over the country.
deschamps

Trad climber
Out and about
May 3, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
Jacks is about 100 times better than Carderrock outside of DC. Carderrock gets my vote for the worse place I have ever climbed. Everything seems to be 20 or 25 feet tall and the rock is the most river polished friction-less rock I have ever climbed.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
May 3, 2012 - 06:03pm PT
Probably the worst crags I've spent any rope time on are Mt. Erie (Washington), Mission Gorge (San Diego), and Devil's Punchbowl (north of L.A. over the Angeles Crest).

BUT...

a.) It's not their fault, and;
b.) I can have fun on just about any crag, and would go to all of them again.

Climb on.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 3, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
The worst crag is better than the best workplace. Ummmm.....except for the Seward Highway and then there is.....
Big Piton

Trad climber
Ventura
May 3, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
Mt Williamson in the Angeles Forest by far.
Landgolier

climber
the flatness
May 3, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
Carderock is one of the most important sites in US climbing history, it's slick because people have been toeing those footholds with river sand on their boots since the 20's. Complaining about the friction there is like kvetching that all the good pin placements on the nose are beat out. It's true that there are a couple of elimination routes there, but they aren't squeeze jobs, just people's attempts to challenge themselves for training and for fun over the years.

John will definitely talk your ear off if you hold still long enough and sometimes gets a little heavy with the beta, but he's also a dude over 70 who probably climbs 200 days a year and solos 60 foot 5.9's when the mood strikes him. If you want to spend your energy hating a guy like that, that's on you.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
May 3, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
Donini for the win.
FTOR

Sport climber
CA
May 3, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
index--

mostly rainy 9 months out of the year

inbred locals that don't seem to climb any place else

shooting range going off all day long

edit: ok, 2nd thoughts. guess what i was getting at was this could be a great local crag, the climbing and location are fantastic. but, it does rain there most of the year, didn't appreciate attitude when simply asking for beta on a rack my first visit there, then add to that the ambiance of climbing in a fire fight...
MisterE

Social climber
May 3, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
FTOR, you must be trolling - Index RULES! Land of the 5.11 crack...3 months out of the year. I just figured that the people at the gun range were already good, and just there to get better.

Or so I told myself...
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 3, 2012 - 09:35pm PT
Yeah Mr. E, dissing Index is quite a stretch. My favorite area when I lived in Seattle.
RP3

Big Wall climber
Temporarily Chapel Hill
May 3, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
Dang! I sure struck a nerve with Carderock! I understand it's significance in history and it CERTAINLY is better than not climbing at all.

I guess I got turned off by the massive waits to get on very uninspiring climbs all the while being hosed down by spray coming from every direction.

Perhaps I do need to go there on a weekday to experience the glory of this place!

-Roger
bit'er ol' guy

climber
the past
May 3, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
The Columns in the Truckee River Canyon
MisterE

Social climber
May 3, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
A show of hands - who DOESN'T like to bag on their own local worst climbing area?


I thought so...
Messages 81 - 100 of total 106 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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