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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 4, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
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In its Feb 2003 issue, Climbing ran a Matt Samet article about the country's five best and
five worst crags. Opening the issue, I skipped past the "Five Best" part (JTree, Gunks, yada
yada) to read about the five worst: Virgin River Gorge, Mount Potosi, Jacks Canyon, Sport
Park, Seward Highway. At the time, I'd only ticked two of these, leaving three more to go.
This week, I was reminded of the article when I visited a cliff and a local proudly said,
"This is one of the Five Worst Crags!"
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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oh so easy, #1 is Chickies Rocks in Pennsyltuckey.
must be the worst "climbing" cliff in the US- when I lived there actually someone died on it- ugh, what an epitaph.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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I've climbed at a lot worse crags than Jacks that aren't on the list...
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couchmaster
climber
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Who will be the first to tick all 5!
The race is on...think 'Seven Summits' of choss here.
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Florida and Delaware are probably worse than any of the five!
Really, the worst crag? The worst crags that are actually called crags.
How about Bunker Hill?
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anointed one
Gym climber
my mamma
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Samet can't even climb the warm ups at Potosi or VRG, no wonder he hates them.
I'm surprised he doesn't like Jack's though, where any 5.10 climber can onsight 12a's as long as the drilled pockets are ticked.
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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wait, are you deriding drilled pockets and extolling potosi in the same breath?
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anointed one
Gym climber
my mamma
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no, I'm subtly illuminating the difference between absurdly retarded pocket drilling and masterful sculpting a pile of choss into something useful.
Joe Brooks is my hero.
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cintune
climber
the Moon and Antarctica
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oh so easy, #1 is Chickies Rocks in Pennsyltuckey.
must be the worst "climbing" cliff in the US- when I lived there actually someone died on it- ugh, what an epitaph.
Some criteria there, but for a one-pitch quartzite nubbin you could do worse. When I lived there (up the tracks in Marietta in the early 80s) it was fun and easy access. Most deaths (pretty much annual events) were frat boys and rednecks swilling beer at the top who managed to stagger over the edge.
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jsj
climber
Boulder
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In my opinion, the VRG has some of the BEST climbing in America... it just has the WORST ambiance.
Oh, and annointed, I'm pretty sure Matt Samet knows how to climb.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Exactly right jsj.
VRG has fantastic climbing if you can climb .11+ and up.
Good enough to offset the crappy ambience.
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Evel
Trad climber
the cliffs of insanity
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Chickies certainly gets my vote. Some other stuff near Shamokin Dam, also in PA is pretty bad too.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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wow, it really is hard for me to name a worst crag. I always seem to find fun in almost any boulder scree. I have found myself having fun on a highway under pass.
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Lots of crap rock in Pennsylvania, but as far as established climbing areas:
Ralph Stover State Park -- PA
Safe Harbor -- PA
Delaware Water Gap -- PA
Bellfonte Quarry -- PA
Chickies Rocks -- PA [never been there, only from this thread]
All of these areas make Connecticut Traprock look like El Cap; and Traprock sucks.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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don't all shale based Canadian peaks fall under the category of
"Seven Summits of Choss"
??
*not having climbed El Canadia peaks, I'm just posting out loud here.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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I'm suprised Locker hasn't chimed in.
I know for a fact he knows where some of them are.
GHOST ROCK!!!!!!
But then it hardly meets the definition of a CRAG!!!!!!!!!!
Road side dump maybe'
;-\
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Rock!...oopsie.
Trad climber
pitch above you
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Gunkie,
Hah, I'll second Safe Harbor! Gotta love the slippery starts to the climbs where you have to get past the neo-nazi graffiti before the rubber meets rock... and then it's rail-road cut blasted basalt, what's not to love? I will say it has the (single) redeeming quality that you can climb rock in mid-winter in a t-shirt due to the south exposure and dark rock.
-Bob
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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John Harlin III always wants to hike up to some piece of sh#t rock telling me that we might find the best moves we've ever done. I tell him that just because it's rock doesn't mean there is rock climbing.
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Evel
Trad climber
the cliffs of insanity
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I take umbrage at calling Bellefonte a choss pile. It's a chossy sh#t-hole, now closed to the public.
Possibly one of PAs best crags though........just sayin.....
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Shouldn't Quincy Quarries be on the "worst" list? I have to say I am surprised that Jacks is on there...I only went through there once but it is a really pretty area and relatively secluded. Also the camping is first rate in terms of no fees and an outhouse...
I had heard some noise about chipping and such there and that their grades are soft...but I also got it on pretty good authority that the reports of such elicit activities were much exaggerated.
I liked it(Jacks). Other people love Tensleep canyon in WY- I thought it wasn't great. Its sort of unfair to measure places that are small time (relative to traffic) against places that are zoos; flooded with climbers 9 months or more out of the year.
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dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
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I was probably the first to climb in Jacks.It wasn't a sh#t hole then.It was magic.Nature doesn't make shitholes.People do.
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Stoney has to be in there somewhere?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2009 - 08:37am PT
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Obviously, Matt Samet knew what he was doing. Who'd want to write, or read, an article that
just named five crumbling crud-heaps like the roadcut at the end of my street? No, for the
game to be any fun, his Five Worst had to be places with popularity, devoted developers,
redeeming features and users who would rise to defend them when dissed.
So far we've heard defenses of Jacks Canyon, Potosi, Sport Park and the VRG. (Plus a chorus
of Pennsylvanians miffed that their crags did not make the list.)
What's missing?
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona, Spain
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How about Pinnacles NM? Don't like a hold, pull it off and try the next one. Don't like bolts? Pull 'em out with your fingers and put 'em in your chalk bag.
Or what about Blacktail Butte in Jackson? Greasy tweaky little holds all over the place, S facing, and too damn hot in summer.
Just kidding, I had a good time at both places.
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Bazo
Boulder climber
Ky
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And the winner is...
Grand Ledge Michigan. I can't believe I climbed there year after year..
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Kindly indulge my ignorance. I've been through the Virgin R Gorge a number of times on the way to better places and marveled at the hideous nature of the choss. Where exactly, if one were so perversely inclined, would one find the actual climbing area?
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Chris2
Trad climber
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"Roadcut" in Juneau Alaska.
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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Pinnacles is a total choss pile, but come on, there are some real gems there, not to mention it's a super scenic area. Yeah the bolts are like 80 years old (one of the 1st bolts placed in N. America is/was here... so I've heard), and the rock is hardly solid, but if you climb there a few times, you get kind of used to it - hardly one of the worst climbing spots ever...
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FinnMaCoul
Trad climber
Green Mountains, Vermont
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Den Rock in Lawrence, Mass where I learned to rope up. Urban blight setting, truly one of the shittiest cities in the States. Where the original guide used the grafitti to topo the routes (follow the dihedral to the left of the "F#CK", etc...). Always dodging dumped refuse and crack vials at the base, we once had to climb around the burned out shell of a stolen car that had been shoved over the edge and then torched at the base; the face of the rock was oily and black from the smoke of the fire.
It was friggin great.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Pete's Pile in Oregon has to be one of the worse. Dirty, mossy basalt. Lots of loose rock. Above your head on the Schoolhouse Wall are these huge overhanging detached basalt columns just stuck there waiting to fall on your head if you speak to loudly. Its kind of a scary place for me to climb. It does have a stellar crack climb there called The Guillotine, 10a.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Beauteous shot Locker! Nobody can deny that Americans love their country.
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shutupandclimb
climber
So. Cal..............d00d
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Worst crag in America.....................EASY,
Tick Rock in LA. It is (has):
Road cut
Ticks
maybe 10 routes of dubious quality
major thoroughfare within 50yds
assorted cig butts and trash around the base
the smell of urine on warm days
the site of a sometimes homeless camp (wino's and addicts not dirtbag climbers)
used syringes found at the base on several occasions
I think that may cover it
Does it qualify?
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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We should head out there and put some grafitti up, locker! I'll bring the paint! :)
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Slater
climber
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The Trailer Park Crag off Hwy. 166 in Cali has them all beat.
Steve Edwards will agree.
In fact, if you DO find a good hold, take it home and show it off to your friends.
It's that easy. Matt Pollard was dumb enough to park his VW van beneath one of the routes (it's 25 ' off the Hwy) and on an ascent, the route fell off and landed on his roof and dented it in various places. I've been "pulled over" while on route twice by the CHP. I just lie and tell them I have permission from Cal Trans (which I sorta do?). Depends upon who at Cal Trans you talk to. I've since used the route to build a retaining wall at my house.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2009 - 03:35pm PT
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At One of the Five Worst Crags, earlier this week:
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Slater
climber
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yep, if you have to wear a helmet while you belay from the ground, that's a bad sign.
Here is Doug Englekirk at the Trailer Park, about to pick out his favorite hold to take home. He called the .11a route "insecure". Words from a .13 climber. He's making it look easy. I think the route is called Wife Beater.
photo Tom Slater (c)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2009 - 09:51am PT
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When I started this thread, with a post made between flights at PHX (free wifi), I meant to contribute
a micro-TR about some fun evening trips to One of the Five Worst Crags earlier this week.
Never got 'round to that, but to add color to the thread here are a few more photos.
The ambience is good and bad: you have to wait for breaks in the traffic to communicate with your
belayer, but when the breaks do come, lookit where you are.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2009 - 11:15am PT
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Helmets are a good idea even on 4-star routes, but the climbing still is fun.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2009 - 11:28am PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2009 - 09:02am PT
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Road Warrior, 5.9. Said to be one of the best Seward Highway climbs. I thought it was fun,
and would be popular anywhere.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Hey Chiloe! I was there last summer- I pulled over to park and sleep and woke up and saw some bolts...so I said what the hell and went for it. Pretty scary, but fun climbing. It was just a real surprise to scroll though this thread and see the place where we climbed!
Did you happen to climb at all on the little island on the other side of the tracks? There are a few bolted routes there, but they look a bit rusty and it was COLD so we agreed to save it for next time!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2009 - 11:16am PT
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Did you happen to climb at all on the little island on the other side of the tracks?
Hah, prolly not the same place you're thinking of -- but I recall a little bolted island on the
other side of the tracks years ago. Story I heard (maybe locals can improve this) is that
the railroad folks discovered climbers were crossing the tracks to climb there, and decided
to end that by dynamiting the small crag into rubble.
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anointed one
Gym climber
my mamma
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that looks worse than eastern washington choss. a little epoxy should help with some of that choss.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2009 - 11:50am PT
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I kept watching for beluga,
but this was as close as I got:
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hooblie
climber
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you don't often see something like that just sitting on a bench.
ooops...wrong thread
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Aug 18, 2009 - 03:28pm PT
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I had a blast this weekend at one of the five worst crags.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2009 - 03:33pm PT
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Post more photos so we can all appreciate the badness!
Bob D's Boulder Canyon guide just arrived in the mail. Maybe sometime soon I'll tick another
of the Five Worst Crags.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Aug 18, 2009 - 03:42pm PT
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Actually Sport Park is not all that bad even with the grid bolting.
Now if you want a real fecal fest of a climbing area I nominate the Iron Clads.
Calling that place choss is an insult to choss.
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
Arkansas, I suppose
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Aug 18, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
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I guess I'm fortunate to have a pick of Arkansas crags, none of which I think would qualify for the 5 worst.
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Porn, CA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
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Don't forget Mount Erie!
The rock is nice a solid in most places but holds have been known to break off. The face climbing is your best bet here, as the cracks tend to be shallow and end at inopportune times. Park hours are from 6am to 10pm and there is a gate, so don't get locked in. No overnight camping. Watch out for crowds at the upper walls and heed the guidebook warning of falling junk, beer bottles, and people! (This happened once when I was there!) Wear a helmet! You can scope the upper walls from the store and if you see a sea of helmets don't even bother to go up.... Speaking of, go visit the Lake Erie store. Its an old time general store with an ample beef jerky selection. Help support the little guy/girl. Ticks abound at Erie in season. Check yourself for ticks and remove them properly. Enjoy this with a friend!
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
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My experience is quite limited, but I respectfully submit:
Point Mugu (ventura county, Southern California)
 greasy, spray-painted little boulder in a paved turn-out next to the highway. I once drove from downtown LA specifically to that spot during a business trip, with 2 other climber buddies.
Indian Joe Caves near Sunol, SF east bay, California)
hot dry multi-mile approach, for a series of low poison-oak covered rocks. A little anti-climactic. Nice hike, crap climbing. Maybe there was a time when poison oak didn't blanket everything?
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apogee
climber
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Aug 18, 2009 - 04:19pm PT
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I visited Stoney Point a couple of weeks ago, and very sad to say it is well on it's way to one of the least desirable places to climb. The High Desert crags that Locker bravely haunts are right up there, to be sure, but of late, SP is giving them strong competition in the way of trash, graffiti, the wonderful smell of piss, condoms, and the occasional homeless person's 'bed'.
Especially sad given the long, illustrious history of SP.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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Aug 18, 2009 - 04:29pm PT
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I taught myself to climb a little at Indian Joe Rocks.
The poison oak used to be smaller.
Here's one....Rocky Canyon, Boise.
At first glance, it looks like a pile, but upon further inspection, you notice that it's a grainy, chossy pile.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Aug 18, 2009 - 05:07pm PT
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Chiloe,
My mantra for the Seward is, it's crap, but it's close. And you know what, access is what drives less then steller crags to be developed. When you look at all the factors of what makes a good or bad crag, you could say that the Seward is one of the best. Heres why:
How many big cities have rock and ice climbing 15-30 minutes from downtown? How many folks can get in a climb during their lunch hour? How many crags have outstanding views and good chances of seeing wildlife? With Southern exposure, the climbing season for Alaska is very long, certainly April-Sept for the rocks.
The downside is also the upside, being right off a highway there is alot of road noise. There are some cliffs that are a little way from the road and well enough away from the noise. Other than the ice routes, I typically won't climb right off the road. Way too many cars in the summer. The rock quality varies tremendously. There is some solid very frictiony stuff, but that stuff occurs on the lower angle shorter formations. The more featured and steeper routes have many fractures and loose blocks. The other downside is weather. There is plenty of rain of snow, and when that isn't coming down, the arm can be a real wind tunnel. I thought my eyes were going to pop out of my head one time while soloing up across from Beluga point.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 06:26pm PT
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Pardon me - as a former traprock dweller, there is something fabulous about having so many crags minutes from your doorstep. Not every little crag deserves a visit there unless you are trapped there and desperately seeking variety. Pete's Pile is quite nice once you get past the nasty little approach trail.
For Crags truly unworthy of a visit, my vote goes to:
1) Rocky Butte in Portland - There is simply no competition. I'd go inside to climb first, and I don't do that. Why go cragging suspended over the interstate? Add trash, crowds, short climbs, moss, poison oak, 6 months of wet weather and other wining qualities for an experience that will inspire you to take up golf.
2) That little crag near the Jackson Hole Airport (Black Tail Butte??)- it's only saving grace is the short approach. Go to the airport earlier and have a drink instead.
3) Peshastin Pinnalces - Much ado about nothing special there. Keep driving - another 20 minutes will get you to far better climbing.
4) Carder Rock in DC - Couldn't take a job in DC after visitng what would be my home crag.
5) Horsethief Butte in Washington. Drive forever to get to a choss pile covered with poison oak. I am not allergic, but my partner never forgave me for stopping there. No wonder no one has published a guidebook.
6) Electric Rocks in CT - There is a dud or two in Traprock land. To be fair, this one has no New England charm - unless the sizzle of power lines turns you on. The bolt chopper himself placed the bolt over there on a 30 foot climb, only to later chop it.
7) White salmon slabs - belay from your bumper for 4 - 5 short pitches. You can climb this out in 30 minutes. That is a great climb/travel ratio since it is over an hour from Portland...
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Ezra
Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
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Aug 18, 2009 - 06:41pm PT
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I'd have to add
Heise, Idaho- It has a ton of bat guano, shite rock that often pulls off and some routes are not well protected (which is a problem with the shite rock)
Pilot Mountain, North Carolina- any body who's climbed there knows why it's on the list- massive gumbies and shite rock. Although the views are pretty admittedly.
Ross Park in Pocatello, Idaho- routes are max 40 feet high and next a major train depot with massive road noise in addition.
Black tail butte in Jackson is a 5 star destination compared to Heise!!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 18, 2009 - 07:52pm PT
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How about the most OVERRATED areas. I'll pick two- Wild Iris for rock and Lee Vining for ice.
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Jackson, WY^
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Aug 23, 2009 - 01:51pm PT
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The worst place I have ever climbed in the US is Massacre Rocks in Idaho. Ledgefall potential on the cruxes of many routes (bolted sport, motorheads everywhere, and rattlesnakes under every rock. I've climbed a lot of places, for a long time, and have never seen a more stupidly bolted crag anywhere.
I must agree with Donnini about Wild Iris being overrated. Its pretty, but the routes are all sanitized (manufactured)and squeezed in pretty tight.
Scole
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 23, 2009 - 02:02pm PT
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One I can add is the cliff above the railroad
in Harper's Ferry, W.VA. . .
Ugh. . . chopped rope and all.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 23, 2009 - 05:43pm PT
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Hey, take it easy on Peshastin Pinnacles! Its where I cut my teeth and also many of my buddies back in the day, 1970's. Whats wrong with Butter Brickle or Bombshelter or Empire State or Dr. Leike? Many good fun climbs there on sandstone when it can be to cold to climb in the canyons.
Yeah, Horsethief Butte is a pile. Two people just died there this summer. Since it is Indian grounds, they don't allow bolts, and people don't realzie that it is choss, so they place gear on top in what is loose rock for a top rope, and when it gets loaded up, it can all go to heck in a hurry. Not a good place for anything but bouldering.
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charley
Trad climber
nw pa.
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Aug 23, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
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As far as bellefonte is concerned. How can a hole in the ground be considered a crag. It is a quarry. It has some decent climbs. It is closed now. Pa. doesn't exactly have a plethora of fine climbing areas.
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jbaker
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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Aug 23, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
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I've got to agree with SteveW about Harper's Ferry. It is pretty ugly. A few of the crags in the DC area made me realize what a paradise Stoney Point is.
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Ezra
Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
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Aug 23, 2009 - 09:03pm PT
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Scott,
Massacre is a great area.... compared to Heise! Trust me.
The rock at Massacre isn't bad and at least you can climb there in winter!
-e
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Prezwoodz
Big Wall climber
Anchorage
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Aug 23, 2009 - 09:34pm PT
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I am going to have to agree with the Seward Highway being choss and if you consider simply the rock it is probably one of the worst crags in the country. But there are so many other factors that make this place amazing.
First its close to town. You could be roped and climbing 20 minutes from downtown.
The crag is actually quite long! If you consider the crag to be the "Seward Highway" that is about 300 routes and stretches for 20+ miles.
The views! The mountains, ocean , and life surrounding is amazing. It is usually more sunny then other climbing areas around.
Heres a few pictures.
My dad enjoying Goats Head Soup
Having dinner, sometimes I love to solo the cliff to the top and just have dinner.
From Sunshine Buttress
Allison on a climb at Goats HEad
Rainbow Peak on the Seward Highway
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
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Aug 24, 2009 - 02:20am PT
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Riverside Quarry, Mormon Rocks, & Eagle Rock.
"The Bouldering at the bottom of Mount Baldy which I visited and found after reading some Stonemaser stuff, is up there also."
That is a pretty tough boulder, slick as hell. If you look around though, there are some pretty cool problems in that area.
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Ray-J
Social climber
east L.A. vato...
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Aug 26, 2009 - 01:57am PT
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Funny, good suggestions...Tick Rock?
Ffuk.
Anyway, oh yeah, I went to Stoney Point in the '80's and thought the place was disgussting, then.
But, you know what...that could change...it really could...cleaned up, admission fees, trash cans paved trails...maybe a few years.
Now, Tick Rock?
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Seems to me the worst crags can't just be choss. Examples of choss are legion. I'm two for five on the original list--Jacks and Seward. Between the two Seward is much worse because of the highway. I just can't imagine the humiliation of being killed by a car while climbing in Alaska. The actual environment at Jacks is quite pleasant.
For me, the worst rock climbing in America is in the Bay Area. It is a collection of widely spread, poison oak covered, smooth, crowded, weird and uninspiring lumps of jumbled and unaesthetic "cliffs." I have climbed at every Bay Area climbing area-- ONCE.
Lest anyone think I am completely biased or unreasonable, I will give the bouldering at CRSP one half of a star.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Temporarily Chapel Hill
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I am going to second the earlier vote for Carderock. That place is horrific! My girlfriend and I stopped there on our way home from visiting some family in the DC area and tried to climb. There were actual ques for about every climb (all of which are topropes of slick-as-snot 40 ft high schist cliffs).
One guy pointed out one of the "classic" climbs to us: a single dihedral that had 5 different ratings depending on how you climbed it (ex: use only the left wall, use only the right wall, use your feet on the left and hands on the right, etc...)
I felt like it was a mocumentary of the climbing world.
I would EASILY take any of those "worst climbs" over that.
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OR
Trad climber
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Haaaaa thats hilarious^^^^^^. " Its 5.9 if you dont use your right foot" . I remember some sort of hierarchy there as well. Local's walked around like the were the second coming...offering unwanted beta and dressing down noobs. Awful. Cool place though with the class 5 whitewater scene next to almost acceptable climbing in a major east coast city.
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MisterE
Social climber
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What? Texas Canyon didn't make the cut? I am appalled.
Bat Caves? Meh. Bat guano everywhere, huge bee hive with swarming bees and dubious rock quality.
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jstan
climber
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I'll speak up for Carderock. All kinds of interesting problems if you just leave your rope in the car. Without a doubt someone stepping down out of their SkyCrane helicopter to stand on the summit of Everest will one day say, "Shitty climb, but at least it is easy."
If you are willing to ford the Potomac to get to islands there is even wilderness. And you can't beat the run on the C&O Canal. I did get cited once for "improper use" of the outhouse. I still have the ticket somewhere.
The good news? Carderock will soon be considered a destination. Traffic has become so bad it now takes two hours to drive there.
And it has ambiance. On Saturday a friend fell off a high ball breaking his ankle. On Sunday we found him sitting underneath the same problem complaining bitterly about poor quality control in our health system. He said, "Look at this! This cast is barely one day old and it is already broken."
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Great story, John!
Aside from the heat and humidity, Carderock did afford a n00b like
me a way to learn the ropes, so to speak.
There are certainly worse places than it. Just too bad Trav's is
no longer with us!
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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I've climbed at Chickie Rock. There are certainly five crags that are worse than that one.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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John--"improper use of the outhouse"--that must be some story---though probably not fit for telling in public--even on the Taco!!!! Great story about your friend with the broken ankle--typical climber. I personally enjoyed my brief visits to Carderock even with the heat, humidity and bugs of summer, but then I also used to hang out at Quincy Quarries!!!!!
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jstan
climber
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I have forgotten the name of the pub that replaced Trav's. Just down the road toward town. Donovan's? Once I had to move over in my seat to avoid being drawn into a biker fight.
Trav's has been reopened as a yuppie place not a biker bar. Trav's atmosphere was celestial. Truly. One evening one of our lady climbers, now wearing deck shoes, was complaining bitterly over her beer about Buck Harper's poor maintenance at the pavilion in Seneca. She said he needed to do something about the outhouse. "The last time I used it, I had to pat it down!"
Edit:
In my whole life I have never encountered a story that could not be told. Should is another matter.
The ranger found me on the roof of the outhouse. He looked very confused while writing me up. I think he thought I was trying to look down the vent pipe for the women's section. I don't think he knew much about plumbing. I considered showing him this mantel problem on the outhouse that was really excellent as long as you did not use your feet. In light of his poor knowledge of plumbing, I decided doing this would probably not help me.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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I too have climbed at many of the Bay area crags, once. They suck, bad.
People who have any experience climbing on the Seward Highway know about the crags up in the woods away from the highway with no traffic noise, very climbable rock and a view gazing out across Cook Inlet and the Alaska Range. You can also be on a route 30 minutes or less from leaving your desk and you can climb all night. There's something to be said for that.
I've climbed at many crags that are eons worse than that.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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The climbs along the Patapsco River in Baltimore County have that distinct local flavor of rust belt decay and make Carder Rock worthy of visiting despite its destination rating...
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OR
Trad climber
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What was that chosspile behind the elementary school in San Fran? It had some crack/seam thing and the footholds were worn to a glassy sheen. That was something special. It actually had some history to it though.
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OR
Trad climber
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HAHA!! thats it. It's been 25 years. Funny how a pic can bring back some very vivid memories.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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I am pretty sure nobody else has been there, but the cut in Newbury NH is one of the worst places to climb in the country.
I learned how to climb there, and was blown away when I finally visited better venues.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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I am going to second the earlier vote for Carderock. That place is horrific!
Uhhh, I guess you need to see some more shyteful crags.
Carderock isn't even in the top ten.
On a weekday out there, in winter, there were few people around climbing.
This wasn't BITD, this was 2006-2008.
Reasonably warm temps, quiet space for being on the edge of a giant city, nice setting next to the river, and few, if any, holds breaking or crumbling.
If I climbed a lot of things unroped there, it can't be that bad....
I've climbed in a helluva lot worse places and I haven't been all over the country.
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deschamps
Trad climber
Out and about
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Jacks is about 100 times better than Carderrock outside of DC. Carderrock gets my vote for the worse place I have ever climbed. Everything seems to be 20 or 25 feet tall and the rock is the most river polished friction-less rock I have ever climbed.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Probably the worst crags I've spent any rope time on are Mt. Erie (Washington), Mission Gorge (San Diego), and Devil's Punchbowl (north of L.A. over the Angeles Crest).
BUT...
a.) It's not their fault, and;
b.) I can have fun on just about any crag, and would go to all of them again.
Climb on.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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The worst crag is better than the best workplace. Ummmm.....except for the Seward Highway and then there is.....
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Big Piton
Trad climber
Ventura
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Mt Williamson in the Angeles Forest by far.
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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Carderock is one of the most important sites in US climbing history, it's slick because people have been toeing those footholds with river sand on their boots since the 20's. Complaining about the friction there is like kvetching that all the good pin placements on the nose are beat out. It's true that there are a couple of elimination routes there, but they aren't squeeze jobs, just people's attempts to challenge themselves for training and for fun over the years.
John will definitely talk your ear off if you hold still long enough and sometimes gets a little heavy with the beta, but he's also a dude over 70 who probably climbs 200 days a year and solos 60 foot 5.9's when the mood strikes him. If you want to spend your energy hating a guy like that, that's on you.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Donini for the win.
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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index--
mostly rainy 9 months out of the year
inbred locals that don't seem to climb any place else
shooting range going off all day long
edit: ok, 2nd thoughts. guess what i was getting at was this could be a great local crag, the climbing and location are fantastic. but, it does rain there most of the year, didn't appreciate attitude when simply asking for beta on a rack my first visit there, then add to that the ambiance of climbing in a fire fight...
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MisterE
Social climber
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FTOR, you must be trolling - Index RULES! Land of the 5.11 crack...3 months out of the year. I just figured that the people at the gun range were already good, and just there to get better.
Or so I told myself...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Yeah Mr. E, dissing Index is quite a stretch. My favorite area when I lived in Seattle.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Temporarily Chapel Hill
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Dang! I sure struck a nerve with Carderock! I understand it's significance in history and it CERTAINLY is better than not climbing at all.
I guess I got turned off by the massive waits to get on very uninspiring climbs all the while being hosed down by spray coming from every direction.
Perhaps I do need to go there on a weekday to experience the glory of this place!
-Roger
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bit'er ol' guy
climber
the past
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The Columns in the Truckee River Canyon
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MisterE
Social climber
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A show of hands - who DOESN'T like to bag on their own local worst climbing area?
I thought so...
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Trona Pinnacles
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Red Wing, about an hour south of Minneapolis, is pretty crappy: an old quarry that is attracts broken glass, graffiti, chain smokers, teenagers, dogs, white trash, literal trash
crappy, suspect rock that's ready to blow, plus crappy, suspect anchors that I wouldn't hang a pinata from
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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I think the idea behind the selection of the areas was that it be somewhat popular. The climbs in Cheyenne Canyon in Colorado Springs are really awful compared to say, the Sport Park in Boulder Canyon, but the crags are so obscure that no one really cares.
I liked those Cheyenne Canyon routes. Crack Parallel is a good route, cool walk off, nice summit if you scramble for it. Peaceful up there.
Echo Cliffs outside of Malibu gets a lot of grief as being one of the worst crags in the country. I've always enjoyed it.
Mt Diablo is a crag that I have never enjoyed.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Pine Creek Canyon on the other side of Diablo is about the only SF crag, besides Indian/Mortar, that I've been to more than once. It's kind of cool.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Ok, I'll say it.
Malibu Creek State Park is kind of a pile. I was a local for quite a few years and used to love it dearly, but that baby is ugly.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
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2013 update:
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| Messages 1 - 106 of total 106 in this topic |
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