One of the Five Worst Crags

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Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 4, 2009 - 10:22am PT
In its Feb 2003 issue, Climbing ran a Matt Samet article about the country's five best and
five worst crags. Opening the issue, I skipped past the "Five Best" part (JTree, Gunks, yada
yada) to read about the five worst: Virgin River Gorge, Mount Potosi, Jacks Canyon, Sport
Park, Seward Highway. At the time, I'd only ticked two of these, leaving three more to go.

This week, I was reminded of the article when I visited a cliff and a local proudly said,
"This is one of the Five Worst Crags!"
rick d

climber
tucson, az
Jun 4, 2009 - 10:42am PT
oh so easy, #1 is Chickies Rocks in Pennsyltuckey.

must be the worst "climbing" cliff in the US- when I lived there actually someone died on it- ugh, what an epitaph.
zardoz

Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
Jun 4, 2009 - 11:24am PT
I've been to the Sport Park about three times, but never did I find it to be the worst place I have ever climbed. The Clock Tower does have an incredible amount of guano all over it. The sport routes are packed in pretty tight, but no big deal. Only a few routes are all that good, as far as I have seen. Meh. Kind of done with it. Not a bad nOOb destination, though. Noobs gotta have something, right? No need to poop on it, too.
MisterE

Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
Jun 4, 2009 - 11:46am PT
I've climbed at a lot worse crags than Jacks that aren't on the list...
couchmaster

climber
Jun 4, 2009 - 12:28pm PT
Who will be the first to tick all 5!

The race is on...think 'Seven Summits' of choss here.
TradIsGood

Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
Jun 4, 2009 - 01:13pm PT
Florida and Delaware are probably worse than any of the five!

Really, the worst crag? The worst crags that are actually called crags.

How about Bunker Hill?
anointed one

Gym climber
my mamma
Jun 4, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
Samet can't even climb the warm ups at Potosi or VRG, no wonder he hates them.

I'm surprised he doesn't like Jack's though, where any 5.10 climber can onsight 12a's as long as the drilled pockets are ticked.
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Jun 4, 2009 - 02:07pm PT
wait, are you deriding drilled pockets and extolling potosi in the same breath?
anointed one

Gym climber
my mamma
Jun 4, 2009 - 02:23pm PT
no, I'm subtly illuminating the difference between absurdly retarded pocket drilling and masterful sculpting a pile of choss into something useful.

Joe Brooks is my hero.
cintune

climber
the Moon and Antarctica
Jun 4, 2009 - 02:45pm PT
oh so easy, #1 is Chickies Rocks in Pennsyltuckey.
must be the worst "climbing" cliff in the US- when I lived there actually someone died on it- ugh, what an epitaph.


Some criteria there, but for a one-pitch quartzite nubbin you could do worse. When I lived there (up the tracks in Marietta in the early 80s) it was fun and easy access. Most deaths (pretty much annual events) were frat boys and rednecks swilling beer at the top who managed to stagger over the edge.
jsj

climber
Boulder
Jun 4, 2009 - 02:57pm PT
In my opinion, the VRG has some of the BEST climbing in America... it just has the WORST ambiance.

Oh, and annointed, I'm pretty sure Matt Samet knows how to climb.
stevep

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
Jun 4, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
Exactly right jsj.
VRG has fantastic climbing if you can climb .11+ and up.
Good enough to offset the crappy ambience.
Evel

Trad climber
the cliffs of insanity
Jun 4, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
Chickies certainly gets my vote. Some other stuff near Shamokin Dam, also in PA is pretty bad too.
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Jun 4, 2009 - 04:36pm PT
wow, it really is hard for me to name a worst crag. I always seem to find fun in almost any boulder scree. I have found myself having fun on a highway under pass.
Gunkie

climber
East Coast US
Jun 4, 2009 - 04:49pm PT
Lots of crap rock in Pennsylvania, but as far as established climbing areas:

Ralph Stover State Park -- PA
Safe Harbor -- PA
Delaware Water Gap -- PA
Bellfonte Quarry -- PA
Chickies Rocks -- PA [never been there, only from this thread]

All of these areas make Connecticut Traprock look like El Cap; and Traprock sucks.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 4, 2009 - 05:11pm PT
don't all shale based Canadian peaks fall under the category of

"Seven Summits of Choss"

??



*not having climbed El Canadia peaks, I'm just posting out loud here.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Jun 4, 2009 - 05:12pm PT
I'm suprised Locker hasn't chimed in.

I know for a fact he knows where some of them are.

GHOST ROCK!!!!!!

































But then it hardly meets the definition of a CRAG!!!!!!!!!!













































Road side dump maybe'

;-\
Rock!...oopsie.

Trad climber
pitch above you
Jun 4, 2009 - 05:51pm PT
Gunkie,

Hah, I'll second Safe Harbor! Gotta love the slippery starts to the climbs where you have to get past the neo-nazi graffiti before the rubber meets rock... and then it's rail-road cut blasted basalt, what's not to love? I will say it has the (single) redeeming quality that you can climb rock in mid-winter in a t-shirt due to the south exposure and dark rock.

-Bob
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jun 4, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
John Harlin III always wants to hike up to some piece of sh#t rock telling me that we might find the best moves we've ever done. I tell him that just because it's rock doesn't mean there is rock climbing.
Evel

Trad climber
the cliffs of insanity
Jun 4, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
I take umbrage at calling Bellefonte a choss pile. It's a chossy sh#t-hole, now closed to the public.


Possibly one of PAs best crags though........just sayin.....
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