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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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EDIT - post removed at what seem to be the wishes of the bereaved
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S.Powers
Social climber
Jtree, now in Alaska
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there are no mussy hooks on the formation in question, were never any.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Thanks Wendell and Locker.
Rest in peace, Woody! God bless ya.
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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aww, thanks locker....I always try to take things in a healthy direction, which is why you are invited for unlimited beer and h.lettuce on your next trip to Bishop. Wait, are those things healthy?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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In that same vein, I would further say that I believe that lowering or belaying a climber directly from one's harness is to be avoided unless there is a compelling reason to do so.
I usually only do it when I know the anchor won't hold.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2009 - 08:03pm PT
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Jstan, I was tied in ready to climb. We would have had both ropes up there after I had finished.
This disscussion though is geting off the point and this is one of the reasons I did not get into the mechanics.
This accident was initiated by a communication breakdown and finalized by not following good proceedure
The exact same kind of accident has and will continue to happen with differing mechanical starting points. Focusing on those issues misses the point and won't prevent another one.
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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EDIT - post removed at what seem to be the wishes of the bereaved
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Hey Wendell, now I understand why this must have been a bitch for you. Sorry you lost a buddy, and sorry you had to be there to see it.
I can't imagine the pain. Same for Al. F*#k, that must have sucked.
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WBraun
climber
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TGT -- "Focusing on those issues misses the point and won't prevent another one."
Maybe, maybe not, you don't know. But to me it provides an urgency of awareness to double check for these types of error scenarios in the future. Hearing about this will stay in my consciousness next time I'm in a similar setup to hopefully not become complacent.
We had a big rescue on El Cap many years ago and after the victim and rescuers were raised to the top, they started to tear down the anchors. Communications somehow stopped and there was one edge person still hundred feet below demobbing edge protection. A directional anchor was removed while the edge guy was jumaring back towards the top unknown to the guys tearing down the anchors.
Whamo, the rope went sideways and a stream of profanities came from below. Hahaha The rope suffered some damage as I seem to recall.
The guy could have died.
Anyways the point is someone some where will remember these things and be glad they came up, for knowledge can save.
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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EDIT - post removed at what seem to be the wishes of the bereaved
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BillL
Trad climber
NM
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Thank you for putting out the details and answering the questions, Wendell and Locker. They are helpful beyond just the curious. And the community should be greatful and ought now to continue giving you two, the family, other friends, and Al tons of support.
Best regards,
Bill
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WBraun
climber
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dmalloy
It's pretty clear if you spend the time to read lockers descriptions in this thread only. Read them carefully over and over if you have to.
Maybe Clint C. will lay it out clearer later as he's a master at doing that.
jstan -- yes .... in referral to your earlier post.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Good point Werner!
I, for one, will always pay attention to the, extended, woody check. It's easy to say, anyway.
Another one that I have learned, is the 'Freddy check'. There is someone out there reading this that might want to enlighten our world on the equal necessity of said Freddy check. (ie, be sure if you are are being lowered, or rapping) Though that was a a long time ago, and he only broke a few vertebrae, and only had to survive a few months in a body cast, and now, ~15 yrs after, appears to be climbing harder than I will ever, in this life time, match. Still I think it would be helpful if he spoke up.
little bro?
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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A horrible experience, clearly described.
As Jaybro said, let's all move along now......
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Here is a summary I just posted on TGT's original "Joshua Tree Accident" thread (although locker's summary above is also very good):
1. Woody Stark led a 100' climb on The Great Burrito formation (Real Hidden Valley). He placed an anchor on top.
2. Al Kwok followed the climb, trailing a second rope for the third person (Wendell Smith). The second rope was attached to the back of his harness.
3. 65' (approx.) of slack in the second rope was pulled up, to prepare for belaying Smith, and a knot was tied in the second rope at this point (65/100). This knot was clipped to the anchor by Stark. Smith was tied into the second rope at this time.
4. Before Smith started climbing, Stark requested that Kwok lower him to the ground. At this point, Kwok probably believed that the second rope anchored him closely to the belay anchor, but there was in reality 65' of slack in between.
5. Kwok began lowering Stark. [Edit:] After Kwok had lowered Stark about 35', Kwok probably shifted his weight forward, expecting to be held by the second rope. Due to the slack in the second rope, Kwok kept moving forward and fell along with Stark.
6. Kwok fell 65' (approx.) and was held by the second rope at this point (the haul loop on the back of his harness was strong enough). [Edit:] During the 65' fall, Kwok did not lose control of the lowering device. Stark fell [Edit:] 65' to the ground, receiving a fatal head injury.
7. Smith untied Stark from the lead line, to relieve pressure on Kwok.
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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EDIT - post removed at what seem to be the wishes of the bereaved
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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wendell--
thanks so much for doing this. had to be difficult.
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BillL
Trad climber
NM
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#3 could use more work - I don't see it as an imperative for the rope to go from the belayer to the anchor to the climber.
There's gotta be at least a #6 - walk off when possible? That said, I've chosen to not walk off on occasion.
However, my preference is just to remember the story and be vigilant in like situations - not memorize a list to be confused with other lists for unlike situations.
Respectfully,
Bill
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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I have to come clean here. I used to go up on the first four pitches of astroman as a crag climb. One time I went up with a pretty inexperienced yet very well book read youngster named Jonn Black who I had been mentoring for a while. I always led everything and after the boulder pitch John was going to practice his jumaring skills. I tied off the rope as I had always done for years on walls, that being right where the rope was tied to me or so and gave the all clear for John boy to jumar on up. He asked me at least twice if we were tied off and I said yep. Thank god the youngster decided to pull the slack down before he weighted the jugs, he was starting to jug the end of the rope thinking I had pulled up the slack. Scared the crap out of me. and I would have never forgiven myself.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Bill,
> #3 could use more work - I don't see it as an imperative for the rope to go from the belayer to the anchor to the climber.
I think dmalloy agrees. He just stated it was "best" for the rope to be routed through the anchor. (easier to control ATC type device)
> There's gotta be at least a #6 - walk off when possible? That said, I've chosen to not walk off on occasion.
Same here - risks vary. I remember some years ago on the first day of a Joshua Tree trip, my partner and I had climbed Friendly Hands to summit on the Jimmy Cliff formation. Seeing no rappel anchor, we followed the arrowed descent direction in the guidebook photo. After lengthy sketchy downclimbing, we were descending blocks in a chimney and my partner jumped off a short drop. However, the rope (over her shoulder or on her back) caught on something unexpectedly and flipped her forwards. She landed on her wrist and broke it, although at first we weren't sure exactly what the injury was. At 2am that night, the pain level was very bad, so we packed up and started driving back to the SF Bay Area immediately. (This ensured that she would be treated by her doctor).
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