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WBraun
climber
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The newer yellow Jumars were redesigned and they are harder to get on and off the rope then the gray ones. The gray ones were the most efficient getting on and off the rope.
Everything after the gray ones were designed for maximum safety and thus became a nightmare for efficiency getting off and on the rope.
WTF is up with you jumar designers? Do you jumar engineers even do walls or even jumar?
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Double D
climber
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Yer good to go with some new webbing doubled. Shesh... does old metal loose it's strength just 'cause it's been collecting dust?
The bigger question is what wall?
ps I'm still using my 30+ year yellars and they work fine.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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It looks like those jumars just upthread are much the worse for wear (and corrosion) due to exposure to salt water.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Yes Anders-funny, the unforgiving nature of salt air and the marine environment. Actually amazing what little corrosion exists.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2009 - 09:46pm PT
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Here they are.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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from a scanned edited page from my 1987 "Big Wall Tech Manual"
Those ones corroded by the ocean air would probably have significant weakening, I'd look hard at the hardware and cast material holding the cam in place. i wouldn't use them. Anyway, you's best be tying in short in any case!
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couchmaster
climber
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All you need it the top cord shown in Johns illustration there Mark.
PS, Guido, yours (and mine) are wrong!
Thanks Clint and john for the great pics!
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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I'd take a good look at the springs. The typical spring steel is high carbon music wire, with little or no chromium or nickel to reduce corrosion. Once they start rusting and getting little pits, springs like that can suddenly break with little warning. If anything, they'll feel a bit softer before breaking, but even that isn't a reliable indicator. They'll tend to rust fastest where they are most highly stressed, in the coils, where it can be difficult to see.
EDIT: If I had Guido's sea-crusted jumars, I'd drill out the axle rivets, and replace them and the springs with stainless steel. And I'd wind my own springs, instead of trying to find existing ones that are correct. The safety catch pins could probably be pressed out, the holes reamed out, and new SS pins pressed in - only one side should be an interference fit.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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I do like the variation that Clint has used for the upper knot on the backup sling. Actually, it's not really a full knot there, rather, it's a slip knot. The actual knot tying the backup sling together is down where it gets clipped in.
Like every good system on a big wall, redundancy is key. Two distinct slings would have to fail before the tie-in system fails.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I just remembered the first pair of jumars I had. My friend Steve and I did a short route at the base of the Grand Wall, in the early 1970s. The descent is a ledge traverse. We were always on the lookout for booty gear, and found some stuff on the ledge, including the jumars. They must have been dropped from University Wall or Uncle Ben's, and so have fallen a fair way, and bounced on the steep slab.
We used them anyway, for a few years, until we could afford to buy some. No harm done.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Would someone else PLEASE yank Addison's chain about his old cmi ascenders with broken springs? Someone's gonna die on those things and he swears they're fine.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Who would dare question RR and YC and live to tell the tale?!?
A quick look at the modern Jumar and you can easily see that the desired loading point is in line with the rope hook. On the older but essentially identical frames, this is the weakest point in the casting.
What you boys are yearning for is the old school hitch that makes it all better! LOL
These are the oldest widely available model that I bought used from Marty Woerner back in high school.
The hitch even protects the otherwise exposed weak point. A single piece of 1" allows this set-up to work on older Jumars. The trick is to stack several wraps to form a flared pad for your hand at the handle bottom.
I pre-rig my jugs with a full length sling down to the bootloop.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Some pictures of a very early Clog ascender. Beautiful, foolproof design and solid construction.
Not suitable for any real aid work as it ain't comin' off the rope easily!
I used this along side a Sticht spring loaded belay plate as my solo belay system on the Turning Point. As I climbed along, the ascender was replaced by a locking carabiner and stacked overhand slip knots.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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>
Nice, Mark. Model B with the aluminum safeties, and no visible rust - those were built to last!
I agree with Steve that the lower hole on the Yellow Jumar model was an important place to make stronger.
And another lesson in Steve's photos which I see violated sometimes is that it is important to use a sling in the lower hole instead of a biner. The Storrick page, when discussing the Clog Expedition ascenders, mentions that they once had a lower hole, but it was discontinued after some accidents where people clipped there with a biner which broke when cross loaded.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Gotchyer Hi-Tech Russkie Ascenders here.
Come and git 'em!
For you weight-conscious types here's the
Mini-Me Jug
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Mimi
climber
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Cool Soviet funk, Reilly. You must have quite the collection from your trips.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Second widely available model- smooth paint.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Steve is right - roughly second generation - smooth gray paint, plastic safeties.
I was going to link to the Storrick page again, but I see its bandwidth has been exceeded! Lots of people checking it out - it is defnitely worthy, and hopefully will be available again soon.
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