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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2009 - 09:47pm PT
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Everything including the name would have made my dear old dad nervous as hell. But it would be a good show with no binos required.
Underclings are pretty damn dramatic.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Anchors at end of 3rd (just left of the corner of the flake), and at top. Top might have been to save some bush or tree. You wouldn't have been able to rap from the top to the ground until 60m ropes came along (it's about 190' to the ground), so I assume there must have been a fixed station of some sort at the end of 3 (about 130' from there to the ground).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2011 - 12:21am PT
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Diabolical Bump!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 30, 2011 - 12:22am PT
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If I climb it, can I say that the devil made me do it?
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cmclean
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 26, 2011 - 02:58am PT
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A really fun route! I did this with my friend Keith on Saturday before the Salathe slideshow. The Reid and Meyers topos are pretty inaccurate. Each pitch is ~90' long and all have decent, small belay stances.
I thought the crux was immediately starting the second pitch--very thin hands in the roof with greasy feet. The p4 mantle was definitely interesting as well. It can be protected with a gray alien or similar. A red/yellow offset would probably be placed if it were brought. Doing this climb in the morning and the Moratorium in the afternoon was a great way to maximize the shade.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dec 21, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
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I don't remember any real stance for the first belay.
P4 was a lot of fun the last time I did it. I was talking to somebody who was complaining about the lack of pro before the mantel, and I thought Heck, last time I did it, David had no troubles there...
This time, I led up and placed a purple TCU, sticking out straight sideways. My only piece between the belay and the mantel.
I cranked up on the mantel, then moved back down. Dang that thing is fairly awkward. I moved up again and found an undercling that helped me--I had it in the bag. Until I tried to stand and found I was stepping on the rope. My balance was just precarious enough that it sent me flying, backwards and upside down.
Ha! that dang purple held. Bent the holy ghost out of it though. Now it's a souvenir.
An excellent climb, well deserving of the 3*s. I never found the 3rd to be .11 though.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2014 - 02:05pm PT
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Unique mantel bump...
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