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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 11, 2009 - 08:06pm PT
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Barbella was mellow and stoic.
'Dude had massive lats too, just in case he wanted to free climb...
Nice rollout John.
I sort of like that there is not a single word to go with it along the way.
This way we just keep quiet, look & listen to the big space...
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Feb 11, 2009 - 08:15pm PT
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Great pictures John, Thanks so much for taking the time to post them up. Rick Lovelace and i did an early ascent of the AO and climbed the original pitches that are now at the base. We to were not hauling through that section. I remember having a very uneasy feeling climbing through all that loose rock.
Funny side note: Rick and I had done the route and were trolling the base afterwards in a altered state of mind picking up trash and sh#t bags (this was back when it was acceptable to chuck your sh#t.) Anyway you may recall that there was a big wide horizonal see through crack, maybe some 20 feet off the deck and traversing like 40 or 50 feet. There was a guy aiding across this huge expanding looking crack big cams and all. We asked what he was doing and he explained how he was practicing some aid climbing. We were trippin out on his choice of rock to climb on. That crack now rest's under all that rubble.
This may be up on the Turn pike section
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 11, 2009 - 08:31pm PT
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'Could do a whole thread on Lovelace right?
One of those guys that had a single-minded feeling about El Capitan.
He hit it pretty good too.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Feb 11, 2009 - 11:26pm PT
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Nice job T2.
Thanks for adding your pix and thoughts.
How many ascents has that thing had, and what is done for the bottom section now?
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2009 - 01:35am PT
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wow, the thinly disguised bump worked. All the usual suspects posting up though, heh, heh...
SuperPundits Unite!
(I think I'll see 'bout posting sometin' on one of Survival's threads now...)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
pads are for girls
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Feb 12, 2009 - 02:39am PT
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Oh !
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 12, 2009 - 02:49am PT
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There are some great shots here! Thanks, but it seems somebody 'shopped' (brightened the shadows, etc) them from the first time I looked at 'em. They look much better, or maybe I'm getting more blood to my eyes than normal...
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Feb 12, 2009 - 02:57am PT
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T2: That probably is the Turnpike section. This looks like the same pitch from our Iron Hawk outing, where it hits the Turnpike too. The topo calls it pitch 14, A3+ heading to rivets.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Feb 12, 2009 - 09:13am PT
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Did I miss something?
What do people do on the bottom section now?
Scary stuff reading about you guys climbing through that BITD.
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Delhi Dog
Trad climber
Good Question...
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Feb 12, 2009 - 09:50am PT
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Whoa thanks for sending this one back up!
Fine shots.
"I sort of like that there is not a single word to go with it along the way.
This way we just keep quiet, look & listen to the big space..."
I'd have to agree.
It work.
Thanks for sharing!
Cheers,
DD
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Feb 12, 2009 - 04:15pm PT
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WHAT DO PEOPLE DO ON THE BOTTOM SECTION NOW?
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2009 - 04:31pm PT
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I reckon you can just climb El Cap Tree...
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Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Social climber
CO
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Feb 12, 2009 - 04:53pm PT
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John, Remember running into Alex Lowe coming down off the AO in 1993? He'd been trying to guide it. Remember his client? "Yeah, he could do it, I couldn't." But Alex blamed hot weather or some such. What class.....
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 12, 2009 - 05:05pm PT
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Thanks, John. AO is still on my Hit List. I think these days I would prefer a rope gun for the finish - that scared the livin' bejeepers outa me when I soloed Iron Hawk.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2009 - 05:18pm PT
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Cam, yep I remember that. What a guy that Alex.
Pete- yeah, but soloing that thin face is a lot different than having a partner down below... I've led that thin face twice, and it's most likely 5.10, 30 foot runout stuff, sort of like the 5.9 over on Middle.
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jiff
Mountain climber
autin, texas
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Feb 12, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
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Wonderful pictures! thanks for sharing.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Feb 12, 2009 - 11:08pm PT
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Russ: Yea my pic is taken probably right where you are at in yours. The shadow in you pic is really cool
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 12, 2009 - 11:16pm PT
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"but soloing that thin face is a lot different than having a partner down below"
No doubt! IH was my first solo, and I was using a Solo Aid. I didn't know how to pay out slack one-handed, so I just pulled out 30 feet and went for it. Holy Factor Two, Batman! [I have since switched to a Grigri]
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Feb 12, 2009 - 11:26pm PT
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Maybe Russ should post some more shots...I know he's got 'em!
Cool thread though. Aid climbing used to seem like cheating to me but some of the shots John and Mussy post obviously are likely to disprove that.
20 foot falls on the belay would make most free-climbers sh#t their pants...and then pray to God. Let alone 40, 60 foot falls!
I respect you weirdos.
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