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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 9, 2009 - 06:39pm PT
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another blast from the past! me and johnny barbella on the big stone...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Bitch'n
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Wow! cool stuff, John. That roof sequence was wild.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Wow, best quality photos of all so far! Did you use a different camera?
(The climbing looked really cool, too).
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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This may be the best one yet!
The new ground, the roof, the trundle, arriving at the belay to eye the next pitch. Bag toss, the free gun in the Fires. I love it! Thanks Deuce.
(So how much of that thing is still up there?)
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yo
climber
I drink your milkshake!
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Sickness.
(Too bad Skully missed this one. Right, Skully?)
Edit: What's the story on this Barbella cat? Seems like homeboy ticked every other sick route on EC.
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Bruce Perschbacher
climber
Carbonale,Ill. 62901.
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Superb photos of way cool stuff. Thanks again John for sharing with the rest of us.
Cheers,
Bruce.
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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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Exploring a sea of stone, rad.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Somehow missed this one too....really nice! Glad it resurfaced!
EDIT: now that I look at the photos again, and look at the timestamps on the posts, I'm confused on how I didn't see this earlier today...crazy how stuff slips by you...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Dude, totally GRATE stuff and totally serious Jazz ! Yo pics brought me BITD when my dudes were doing this. Grate memories. Blessings to yo ..... special !!! lrl
Edit: Some of those flakes looked a little unhinged....glad they didn't decide to "dance" when you were there. Peace.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Somewhere, CA
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The Bag Toss is teh awesome! I have ALWAYS wanted to do that, but figured I'd kill someone on the ground...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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PRICELESS!!!!
This is just awesome Deuce.
I have not seen Barbella in such a looong time. What a cool mellow guy he is.
He did a lot with Avery Tichner when he was alive. I remember when they got the hell stormed out of them on the Mushroom and managed to finish.
I wish I had some audio tape of Avery on one of his rants. He was one of a kind for sure!!
If you ever talk to Barbella, please say hi for me.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Feb 10, 2009 - 12:21am PT
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This ain't no goddamn winnie roast!
Love the pic where you're standin' on that #2 friend ...
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 10, 2009 - 11:47am PT
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Definitely the best yet, probably because the photos are actually in order!
I like the cleaning photo with the three poinked-out heads on the rope.
Do you have any photos from the first three pitches that have since fallen off? I would really like to see what used to be there, and what you guys actually climbed to reach El Cap Tree. I walk over those first few pitches from time to time.
And what were you thinking climbing up there without helmets??? Sheesh.
P.S. concur with poster below - would love to hear the stories!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Feb 10, 2009 - 11:50am PT
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John,
You need to get in here and participate in your threads a little more brother.
How about some stories? We need some meat to go with all this pudding, and then you can be counted amongst us Shameless Self Thread Bumpers!
PS. All should go read Reillys "Thread of Life" thread.
What a story!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 10, 2009 - 01:07pm PT
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Gee Survival, Deucie has posted a zillion photos in the last several weeks and you want MORE! (tongue in cheek).
Fun aside, Deucie, you should at least also post your account here about enduring the 100-year storm while on the back of Half Dome. Truly one of the strongest accounts ever of The Ultra-Hideous.
Been so loving your photos. Thanks tons for all that scanning too!!
best ph.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
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Bump disguised as a story, or story disguised as a bump? No matter.
Hmm, AO story. Yep, that was a wild fall Barbella took with those poinked heads. He was up, maybe 20-25 feet, knowing it was going bad. I think he was trying to outrun them. Then, whoosh, back to the belay, I pulled a yard of rope in and he stopped about 2" above the small ankle twisting ledge we had the belay on.
Now that I see all the photos, I wonder what Alpinist has done with my missing photo on the roof. Somewhere out in magazine land, I suppose. There's a shot in Alpinist 25 shows me wildly hanging--that was posed, as I just got my first good piece. Another thing I remember about the roof is that I had to nail at the base of a huge cantilevered block. I called it the Tombstone. I am gobsmacked that thing is still there. The only connection of the 10 foot long block was about a foot or so of its base, right where you had to nail, otherwise the thing was fully suspended.
Pete--the first pic--that's the only pic I have of the start-- where you can see one of us jugging a rope to our belay over the roof (if you look closely). There was one belay which was all knifeblades in a thin crack (we weren't hauling at that point, so it was ok for body weight), and the wall was popping and cracking and making sounds I've not eard before or since--ominous sounds.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Feb 11, 2009 - 07:10pm PT
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Wow. Your story bump worked Deuce!!!
I just missed it the first time around, or I would have posted then. Did you ever know Avery T.? I was trying to poke a comment out of you. I thought you knew him.
I'm tryin' to keep this wall up front John, it deserves it!
Bruce
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Feb 11, 2009 - 07:52pm PT
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I'm wondering how the poli-trolls can out post one of our own with sixty photos of a first ascent of El Cap on a climbers web-site.
I see why guys like R_ _ _ and S_ _ _ _ _ bail out.
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scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
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Feb 11, 2009 - 08:00pm PT
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"Cleaning" photo with plinked heads...
I see there are 4 heads there, at least.
So, what's next? He just goes up again and hopes they
stick better on the 2nd try?
Thanks, John. Awesome set of shots.
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