southern yosemite

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Dingus Milktoast

climber
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:06am PT
Blaine. Huebners. Yup, that's it.

Fit as ever I see.

Nice guy.

Last time I saw him he showed me this stash of like a hundred bolts - he was going to put up some route on something volcanic he said. I take that back I saw him once after - he said they bailed low on the project, rock too loose.

Cheers
DMT
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:08am PT
VIVA California and Mexican food, and the women (and men) that make it.





Dingus Milktoast

climber
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:13am PT
That Diamond Jim's steak house in Miwuk is killer munge. You ever tried it out? Angus and I did on a lark, last summer.

Mmmmmm! A great steak at a decent price, fast service even when they're busy, and cute waitresses to boot.

DMT
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:19am PT
Brad says the service bit donkeys arse and food was mediocre at best and the manager had asked how the food was and when Brad mentioned how it was the guy could have cared less.

hrm, mixed reports. Not enough for me yet.

Besides I like the family that runs La Morenita better. Too bad they never stay open late.
scuffy b

climber
just below the San Andreas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 11:22am PT
Hey Hey Hey
what's all this about places further North than Yosemite?
Do you think I started this thread to talk about STEAK???

(where'd that ball go, anyway?)
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:31am PT
Blaine is still fit as ever, Dingus. We went up to The Cookie last weekend and he was a machine. MiniTraxed Outer Limits, HARDD (sp?), Twilight Zone, Crack-A-GoGo, Red Zinger a couple of times, America's Cup a few times, and both pitches of Meat Grinder. Yep, a machine. Great guy.

He was probably headed out to Little Table Mountain with those bolts... I've only climbed there a couple of time; under the blackness of the night. Mountain biked from the park-and-ride to the huge boulder in the saddle on the very north end of the table, right on the 145, headed over to Friant. All stealth-like. Bummer that place is closed and I missed the time period when it was open. I can't imagine having good climbing 15 minutes from my door here. I know there have been attempts, even recent, I believe, to get it opened back up.
crazy horse

Trad climber
seattle, wa
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:31am PT
Kev wrote: Since then I have found the 30-40 minute approach from below. Much more pleasant...

Dave Daly and I put some serious time into that approach on the way to put in a new line we called 'intrepid voyage' ~600 ft. 5.10a not alot of fixed pro. it still needs some work on the section just before you drop into the creek. If i've given you a topo of any routes i've put in, no doubt you have read the admonition to climb with a pair of pruning shears to help keep the area's approaches not insanely bad. 30 minutes on the way up or down will really help keep the brush back y'all.

My first time out to that dome we ended up bush whacking for hours, to get to a seriously classic route and ended up walking out in the dark. What a great time!!!
Dingus Milktoast

climber
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:33am PT
Ah La Morenita and their Break Neck carnitas!

I have not forgotten. I used to eat at the one in Modesto at least twice a month.

Yes the family is nice munge. But as you say... they are never open anymore.

That new barbecue place SUCKS DONKEY BALLS though. The one just above Twain Harte.
\
DMT
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:36am PT
When are we all going to meet up for climbing in So Yo this year?

We are all real nice "hoards" that bring beer. Though I've given up lopper addiction. I got a nice pair I'd like to give away. Does lopping ever feel like chipping to anyone?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:38am PT
You talking about the oven roasted pizza place next to Morenita?


bummer if so. I was hoping to try them out this year. The pie in the sky place just doesn't do it for me. Their place cooks in the summer time. No ac.
WBraun

climber
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:38am PT
This thread should read "Southern Yosemite Salsa"
Dingus Milktoast

climber
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:38am PT
Munge I've never climbed Squaw Dome - let's go do it in May or June, when the road finally reopens.

Or Feb. - whenever the snow melts.

DMT
Dingus Milktoast

climber
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:40am PT
"You talking about the oven roasted pizza place next to Morenita? "

No no way down the road, just above the Confidence Fork. On the right, headed up hill. It was a brand new establishment. It looks nice but the barby was bloody awful.

DMT
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:40am PT
Could open pretty early this year. There's just not been a lot of snow. I was at Courtright in December this year... Go figure.
crazy horse

Trad climber
seattle, wa
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:41am PT
Nef. wrote: Bummer that place is closed and I missed the time period when it was open. I can't imagine having good climbing 15 minutes from my door here.

There's a new area with a few estd. routes that i helped get going we're calling the Mesa. Locale unannouceable at this point due to access issues but it's a great winter destination ~20 minutes up old auberry road from fresno. Very similar rock to Jailhouse with beautiful wildflower strewn approaches. Also covered in those big black tarantulas, a bit of poison oak here and there but not as bad as the grotto/jailhouse/gold wall, deer grazing on top of the table in the evening, yes there are a few rattlers here and there, and theres a hawk floating around as well. I can put anyone in touch with local FAers if needed as i'm not in the area anymore. approach is about an hour from the car.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:47am PT
I have an idea of where you're talking about, horse. I went up there a number of years ago with Carlos Daniels and this wanker dude, Alex, and someone from the group that owns it. They were considering opening it for climbing. Looked to be some pretty decent rock up there Particularly in a caveish area, and a lot of bad rock too. I remember pulling down plenty of microwave-sized blocks while putting up a couple of routes... Not sure what ever happened with the whole thing, as I just went on a couple of days to check it out and do some climbing. The hike in was actually pretty pleasant.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:47am PT
May I've got sumpin brewing with a bit of time off planned, June would be groovy.

Tiki Jer? you out there? Tor? Matt? Brutus? everyone? hoards?



Ding, I remember now about the bbq spot. It has a bar and used to house 'Cafe 108' for a time. Duly noted.



edit - may have to go stealth, werd is I'm in arrears for my SSCA membership dues.

crazy horse

Trad climber
seattle, wa
Feb 5, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
They were considering opening it for climbing...

well there's like 10 routes in right now. A few up a serious 40-50' roof called the Matrix Roof all 12's and 13's very similar to an area I climbed at in Utah (in the Uintas range.) and a few moderates.

Skeleton Crew .10d ~25M
Circumstantial Evidence .10c ~25M
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Feb 5, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
DMT, Munge,
Snake Crack on Squaw Dome is a moderate gem, IMHO. It's done in 3 long pitches, not the 5 or so as shown on the topo. Prepare to bushwhack if you don't find the right approach road from the south.

Speaking of Squaw, if anyone knows the author of the 5.10 slab pitch just to the right of Snake Crack, I'd love to know.
kev

climber
CA
Feb 5, 2009 - 01:48pm PT
Last year I was heading to sqaw and discovered that the forest disservice had done stealth road closures. While a road closure plan it was up for public review they bulldozed up berms and dropped trees so you can't drive up to that gravel parking/camping area anymore.

That 5.5/5.6 thing is fun fun fun.

kev
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