Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 2512 of total 2512 in this topic |
scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 4, 2009 - 05:46pm PT
|
wtf? did the Horse nuke the entire thread?
That had some great stuff in it.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
You can only really nuke the first post. It could be searched and copied and posted here.
Don't have time myself today for it though
Peace
karl
|
|
scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 06:14pm PT
|
salsa as a search word turns it up right away. The last post was
from Dingus at 3:00.
How do you copy a whole thread?
Those were a lot of awesome photos, etc.
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
Thanks alot for wrecking another thread scuffy b. I asked a simple yes or no question and you have to go on and on like what seemed like forever with your big-worded smartypants answers that weren't even pertinent to the thread. I certainly can't blame the poor fellow, in fact what with some of the insensitive post, I'm surprised he didn't go postal like those trouble making Colorado kids did.(Grug and Tom, they worship Satan) I'm apologizing for everyone, even people who didn't post.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 06:28pm PT
|
Hey, the Paranoid Horse nuked the thing before my long-winded
post chock full of big words even got posted!
However, I think I'm detecting a pattern.
Not many threads get eliminated unless you and I both post
to them.
So make sure you put some wonderful irreplaceable writing and
pictures in this one, so the freakin OP can nuke the thing.
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
Citizens arrest, citizens arrest!
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
let me get this straight. I delete the thread because i think it's lame to talk about salsa, chipping, etc. when i want to talk about climbing and that means i chip holds. I've never chipped, but what good does it do to say it, sounds like everyone has already made up their mind.
It just so happens that i do know who has chipped in the area, which route, which sections etc. and i think it's a complete waste of time to pursue talking about it. The whole point of doing so would be to castigate the person as if everyone else is so freaking ethically pure. i don't believe in that.
I've put up ~50 routes in the area, and i'd be happy to go climbing with anybody from anywhere, any time i'm in the area on any of the routes i've put in and y'all can have a look for yourself. I'll even take you to the chipped routes if you want. Just so everybody knows, before we 'settle it in the parking lot'...what we're talking about here, seriously there's like 10 chipped holds in probably 200 routes. That's the size of the Jardine Traverse!!
matt schutz
2064370016
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
Yeah, now we know who the chipper is! Hey, before I heat up the tar, it's the butcher at Raley's isn't it? My second choice would be the waitress at El Cids where they serve very good watered down salsa, but not as good as the unwatered down salsa of yore. Next would have to be Ernest T. Bass. He does this kinda work as a professional. The locals have named a lake after him!
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
|
|
Heya, Matt. See what happens when you post totally anonymously? haha :) I know your routes are legit, and I'll go climb them with you. Are you back in the area?
But, when chipping comes up, that's kinda the way it's gonna go here, not cause "everyone else is so freaking ethically pure", but because most people don't chip holds and most can agree on this one ethical thing as being a HUGE no-no (for a change). It's quite a bit different from arguing about bolts, etc...
For the record, it's usually referred to as the Jardine Travesty and a huge shameful blemish on the face of the proudest stone around. All caused by one selfish guy. Shameful bummer.
--Ran (I believe you have my number)
edit - for the record, Matt's not out chipping holds.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
sure, nobody thinks the chipped holds should be there, and yet everyone who is trying to free the nose has used them. So what's the message? is it 'lets not do it, unless it's in a spot that's on a route that alot of people want to free'? then it's okay? I'm not saying it's okay, and i don't believe in it at all. All i'm saying is let's not judge, since if you were trying to free the nose, you'd probably use those holds too. Afterall, Jardine did alot for the sport, and for that he's got alot of my respect
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
I delete the thread because i think it's lame to talk about salsa, chipping, etc. when i want to talk about climbing
Matt,
You can start a thread, but you don't own it. You can light the campfire, but others who are standing around are gonna throw on a log.
I was kind of enjoying the conversation branching out. I mean, I chuckled at the salsa and the beard nets and I got sucked into some sarcasm and I blew it and others were cool with me and we went on. And I learned a lot about an area I'm very fond of, as you are, and I got a glimpse of some folks who are really active there, including you.
For years I have wondered who else has been working the place and what they are like, as people. Thanks to your thread I've been finding out not only a bunch about the unreported routes out there, but also how people who matter cuz they are activists feel about guidebooks, chipping and, yes, even the local salsa and margs.
I was just getting warmed up at that campfire. Please don't piss on it.
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
|
|
Just sayin' that this is the wrong crowd to try to preach that to... I'm hopin' you're not going to try to say he invented cams, `cause that's gonna get people fired up right away here. If so, don't. You'll just trash the thread in which you were trying' to get info and climbing partners in. Best to leave the valley history to the valley folks.
So, are you lookin' to climb or just spewin'? Seriously. You said you were lookin' to climb and blew over everything else I said.
edit: "I've been finding out not only a bunch about the unreported routes out there, but also how people who matter cuz they are activists feel about guidebooks, chipping and, yes, even the local salsa and margs. "
Don't forget the hot waitress, Doug! Sheesh! Now who's keepin' the thread on track!
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
Didn't Ray Jardine sport a big beard?
|
|
scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 07:18pm PT
|
Crazy Horse, the important issue here is that the thread got
deleted.
Somebody made a remark about the "identity" of the chipper.
That does not mean AT ALL that anybody actually believes you
to be the chipper.
The thread was filled (I mean, "contained") many wonderful posts
with information generally unavailable to the denizens of this
Forum. Many posters coughed up unbelievable content.
Deleting the thread because you don't like people to talk about
salsa...or you don't like people to joke around...you took
things from everybody that reads these threads.
I don't give a rat's ass about the identity of the chipper.
I'm glad to hear that the problem is smaller than it could be.
Deleting threads is like burning books.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
Kinda disrespectful to nuke a thread that people had put effort into typing and posting images too. Better luck next time, we all make mistakes.
Who chipped? It was the butler in the sitting room with a candlestick?
Peace
karl
|
|
scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 07:21pm PT
|
Hey Randy,
on your link I don't seem to be able to post a reply.
Do you know if there's a way to revive the thread, not just
see it as an artifact?
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
Really slipping here....
Second thread, second apology.
Hot waitress in a hair net, I will lick salsa off you....
But only if it's thick and hot
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
hey Ran,
i can't affort to be suuuuper interested in climbing right now since i live in Seattle now and our weather suuuuuuucks. it's a 550 dollar round trip to fly to Fresno and i just can't afford it. Plus it's ski season, so i'm heading up to the hill about 3 days a week right now. That said, i've been super lucky to get in 4 (about 11 pitches climbing) new routes last season, all on side trips from work gigs in Tehachapi.
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
|
|
Scuffy - Not sure. I tried to post a reply and got the same. I thin that's jsut some sort of cache we're seeing. Even tho it comes up in the ST search engine when I do a search for "salsa". I was under the impression that RJ had fixed it so that when a the OP removes his post that the thread stays on... Who knows what's going on tho.
Matt - Ahh... Thought maybe you were back in town. When you get in, look me up so we can finally hit some routes. Just so ya know, we're a lively bunch, and most are just razzin' ya, dude.
|
|
Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
|
|
scuffy, the deleted thread is now an artifact and you can not post to it. Only way to see it now is to click the link, read it there and then post here, in your new thread.
-n
|
|
scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 07:54pm PT
|
OK, Thanks.
I'm just thinking, What A Resource that other thread is/was.
By the time I ever get around to going to those places, I won't
remember the existence of the thread.
A bigger loss for other people than for me, realistically.
Better luck next time, Crazy Horse. So-called thread drift must
be respected (and expected).
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
hey there guys... say, i just stepped in to see what i could learn about southern yosemite.... '
oooooooooooopss...
sorry, say, perhaps this will grow again, and there will be some pics.... hope all will be well, guys...
sometimes, once the brush-fire clears, a wonderful new crop of trees can grow....
also---out of curiousity, technically, which part of yosemite is considered "southern" and for you climbers, which routes does this area contain, (yet, i need to know, by rock area, such as el cap, three brothers? glacier, etc, or i will not know what you all are talking about----then, you CAN name the routes, after i am placed, better...
thanks guys...
*not being dumb on perpose here, but where is the boundries for noth, and east... and even west, mark (chappy) lived in yosemite west, and i rememeber, we drove out on a long stretch of nicely walled road?? and through a tunned, ? if i remember right???
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
DMT --
Try the one around the corner on E Line, behind Galen's gallery
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
|
|
I agree with Doug - I like the place behind Galen's too.
Fact is though, unless it's really bad, I think if you've been out climbing hard all day and pull up to a Mexican joint that serves decent food and margs, it's probably the best place you've been to in a long time! Kinda the like the McDonald's I had on the way to the airport in Cairo, while I was starving, after eating weeks of Egyptian food...
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Hey Crazy Horse,
Sorry if I seemed a little unfriendly. I usually skim the drift and since I wasn't part of it I took offense.
Also Matt seems like a good guy and not chipper. I've meet him up there once or twice I think.
kev
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
A bit late to the party here, but just for the record, Like Matt, I LOVE Soyo as well. Kind of obsessed with understanding more of it's mystery/history, but little time to do so. Cool to hear a few folks here were climbing there in the 70s.
Roger B. - please do continue to track down those photos. Been years since I last prodded you. :) I think I know the roadside overhanging thing you mention.
JEleazarian - where's the one bolt you placed on Squaw?
Spencer did the best he could with what little info was available. Updated guidebooks are sort of in the works, but if you poke around and talk to the right folks, plenty new info is available already. Word of mouth is fun and trad, no? And lest anyone be mistaken that this vast area is overrun with sport routes, I beg to differ. Much of Shuteye Ridge maybe, but that's only a half to a third of the rock out there.
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
|
|
Never hear about the
"Southern Yosemite Mountain Guides" much here,
I lost a girl to one of them - there's a story there...
|
|
Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
|
|
So lets hear about the Southern Yosemite Mountain guides! Guiding in SoYo must be interesting...
-n
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
I'll say a little about Southern Yosemite Mountain Guides, since I've been guiding with them for years.
They're a thriving guide service started by some dirtbags who lived together at Bass Lake almost 20 years ago.
SYMG teaches rock climbing at Fresno Dome and beyond. And guides big mountains in South America. And -- you may not believe the audacity -- guides fly fishing where they snare their wily prey without a beard net.
But the bigger part of their business is backpacking, which ranges throughout the Sierra. They do trips into the Ansel Adams Wilderness, Yosemite and Sequoia-Kings. They even guide the entire John Muir Trail.
They do well by being really good to their clients, which regularly earns them magazine hype like "best outfitter on the planet."
You can check them out at www.symg.com
Good people.
|
|
east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
|
|
chippers' are barneys( I couldn't resist) the " other " mexican place in bishop- las palmas- good salsa bar, are we still allowed to talk about chippers' and salsa on this thread?
|
|
east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
|
|
amigos- mexi place on main drag- not bad for "cow" town like bishop here my quick and easy recipe for carnitas- crock pot,pork shoulder, onion, garlic, one MEXICAN beer, water, throw it in and come back in 4 hrs or so -muy bien!!
|
|
east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
|
|
actually, you could use one of those " hoppy" micro-brews gives a rich flavor to the CARNITAS- I love CARNITAS!!!!!!!
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
Hey Neebee,
So obsessed with salsa here we kinda blew past your question. Sorry, cuz it's a good one and there isn't a simple answer.
The heart of Southern Yosemite is a big plateau that sits off to the east as you're driving through Oakhurst going from Fresno into Yosemite.
If you look really closely from that grade on hwy 41 as it descends into Oakhurst, you'll see a few granite outcrops off to the east. Kind of underwhelming because they're far away, and anyway not recommended since you might drive right over a dropoff. What you see from the hiway is the tip of an iceberg.
The most obvious boundary of Southern Yosemite is the gorge of the San Joaquin River to the south and east. Though everyone allows a blip of land on the other side of the river because it happens to include Balloon Dome, the Half Dome of the area only bigger and a lot more mysterious. At least one Balloon Dome climb ropes up with the San Joaquin licking at your heels and goes some 3000 feet to the summit.
On the north the plateau rises to a ridge of peaks that form the southern boundary of a local park you may have heard of, Yosemite.
So here we have an area bigger than Tuolumne and with every bit as much climbable rock, crisscrossed by dirt roads and the odd bit of pavement, with one tiny store and a 20-year-old guidebook that is so far out of print you'll never find one.
I started to summarize the climbing history for you, until it began to feel eerily familiar and I realized I had written a bit of it out to go with a Climbing Magazine article on Shuteye. Since this new thread needs some photos, try these:
http://www.shawnreeder.com/index2.php?ver=v1
You'll recognize shots of the Ditch and Hetch Hetchy and Buttermilk, but the whole middle of this great slide show is all Shuteye Ridge, the New Wave heart of Southern Yosemite.
Here's the piece that includes highlights of the climbing history:
Hinterlands Expeditions
By Doug Robinson
Royal Robbins first turned me on to the Hinterlands. In the early 70s when he had taken to soloing in tennis shoes, Royal veered south from Yosemite. Between the park boundary and the deep gash of the San Joaquin River lay two hundred square miles, or probably more, of rolling forest sequestering the occasional granite dome. Like the South Platte country in Colorado, with dirt roads meandering through. Twenty-five domes cropped up in just the first few years. But Robbins wasn’t the first to get there. Not quite.
A few of the faces stretched up over a thousand feet, especially on Fuller Buttes and Balloon Dome. Fred Beckey – who else? – had started sniffing around the western Sierra’s 400-mile “dome belt” in 1970. How did that guy do it? Here he was, a thousand miles from his home range the Cascades, running down the western Sierra bagging the first ascents of whole regions. In 1970 he opened up the Needles, not a bad coup, then pioneered Charlotte Dome for good measure. That put the heat on for Sierra locals. The next spring – April in fact, long before snow usually melts enough to make the dirt roads passable – Galen Rowell grabbed the first major Hinterlands route, the Eagle Dihedral on East Fuller Butte. Galen was motivated, working hard to escape being forever branded as “a former second of Fred Beckey and Warren Harding.” But on the virgin face of Fuller Butte, Galen hit a blank spot right beneath an overhang that forced his aid climbing to get creative. He began throwing a nut on a rope up past the overhang. Over and over he tossed it up out of sight. When it stuck, he went up the cord and – chuckling at the bewilderment of the next party – called it A3+.
You can sense the grapevine at work, the buzz in Camp 4, in what happened next. Barely two months later Fred arrived in the Hinterlands, and in typical fashion climbed a natural line on the area’s biggest formation, remote and beautiful Balloon Dome across the river. He also copped a route on East Fuller Butte, the first route on Shuteye Ridge, and ran up the longest line on Wamello Dome, before moving on. He never looked back at the slew of quite lovely but more modest domes.
The rest of the Hinterlands was untouched until Royal came along, with his Rockcraft climbing school in tow, beginning in the summer of 1973. Every week a fresh gypsy caravan of cars would line up, with Royal’s classic VW bus leading us up a maze of logging roads. I’d bring up the rear in an even older bus, an itinerant guide in huarache sandals, shuffling a circuit between Bishop, Ventura and the Valley.
Sometimes Royal took us to familiar crags, sometimes to new ones. There seemed to be a lot of rock out there, but few clear vistas in the rolling forest. Royal would set his apprentices to work teaching, say, clean climbing, then slip off to scout the larger faces in those Tretorn tennis shoes. Next day, he would point us toward fine, natural lines on medium-sized granite domes, up to six pitches. Then camping rough on pine needles or in pocket meadows a night or two before moving on. Wine in campfire smoke. We definitely sampled the eastern side of Shuteye Ridge.
After two or three summers, Royal closed down Rockcraft. I returned to Bishop and the Palisades. And it wasn’t until I moved to the coast late in the eighties that I remembered the Hinterlands and went back for a look.
Wamello Dome was an early favorite, so I stopped there first. It sported great position, with a broad face six hundred feet high, looking south into the sun and commanding a sweeping view. It’s reminiscent of Manure Pile Buttress in Yosemite. Five times as wide, though, with inviting climbing everywhere you look. I recognized the South Buttress, which I had guided onsight for Royal. Now two bolts marked a direct start, and a guidebook listed a FA ten years after we had bagged it. Still, there was almost no one around. We lingered.
One day I was coming along the base of Wamello (called Fresno Dome on the map) when a familiar voice called down, “Do you know what we’re on?” It was Royal, leading a group of Boy Scouts. The Scouts saved his life as a teenager, he figures, by turning him on to climbing. So he keeps up a steady effort to return the favor. Or, more like pass it forward.
“I was hoping you could show me,” was all I could reply. First glance, I assumed Royal was on his own route, Mule Train. But then I’ve never been sure where it went, really. The guidebook is long out of print and, well, there is a lot of rock up there.
Sitting up on Wamello’s summit watching the sun sink toward almond orchards and cotton gins, our view to the south is dominated by Shuteye Ridge. Hints of its bold outcrops taunt us. Mike Arechiga comes back form there with his eyes spinning. Topos go up on Mike’s website. No one seems to notice. Years go by. Sean Jones brings a new wave from the Valley to Shuteye. In Tuolumne, Royal and I catch a sizzling glimpse of these photos on Shawn Reeder’s computer. Clearly, Shuteye Ridge is new wave Hinterlands. We make a date to go out there in October. But a big snowstorm intervenes. Now I hunker down on the coast with rain on the roof thinking once again, maybe next season…
Why publicize this secret backwater? Expose a private reserve of fine granite? I’ve watched other hidden domelands slam onto the cover of this magazine. Calaveras Dome comes to mind. Locals whimpered and cried doom. In the end outside climbers nosed around for six months, got poison oak and left. That was about it. Still, many favor hoarding. So, a bit nervously, I told Royal that I was going to write this. His response was swift and sure and open: “The more the merrier!”
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
Nice, Doug! Thanks for sharing!
I've heard a rumor that the guide is back in print? Anyone else hear this? Other than for directions on how to get to places, I've always thought the guide was kinda bunk. And seriously, what's with the sketches in that book?!
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Hey Nefarius,
Nice to meet you friday night.
Yeah I heard it was reprinted with NO corrections or additions.
kev
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
And seriously, what's with the sketches in that book?!
No kidding!
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
Hey Kev! Nice meeting you too! I'll keep my eyes peeled, Kev. Mine disappeared a number of years back.
Gene - the clothed cats always kinda freaked me out, Dunno why. Kinda like clowns; scary. Around these parts, Spencer is known more for inflating grades and grid bolting than he is for those pics or that guidebook though.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 12:47pm PT
|
Dingus sez:
I really detest corn tortillas, I'd never last in Mexico.
I wish I'd known that before I forced all those Mole tacos on
fresh-made corn tortillas onto you, back at Dingus Camp...
I'm So Sorry!!!!!!!
|
|
spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
|
|
I for one welcome the information about Southern Yosemite.
Being somewhat lazy, and coming down from the north on one of my free days or weekends, I naturally gravitate toward the closer location for the shorter drive. The lack of a high clearance vehicle will keep me from certain places as well.
But OTOH, it sounds like a fun place for the spring or fall, depnding on the snowpack.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
DMT,
there's a little, great tasting, spring coming out of a pipe just barely (~500 yards) down the hill from Rock Creek on your way back to north fork home of La Cabana the best mexican restaurant i have ever been to including all of the joints down in Fres. the cabana is not open on mondays though. The spring is just as good as the one in moab on river road. the one near rock creek is on your right as you're headed south.
Nice story BTW
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
Spyork,
in SoYo a 4WD is a help but you don't need it. The tales of mega gnarly roads up there are probably just folks trying to keep the place to themselves. The following is a list of the formations that you can get to with a standard 2wd and an hour or less of walking. I should preface this list by saying though that your 2wd will get f'd up by overgrown vegetation etc. scratching the crap out of your paint job. There are as well some fairly burly 2wd sections on the way up to little shuteye pass area that can destroy your car if you don't drive it right. Best to pull over since driving up to the winter gate from the burly area will only save you like 5 minutes of walking:
The Balls:
The Sphinx
Nightwatch
Golden Toad
Book of Revelations
Pretty much everything in the balls area...
Mammoth Pool Area:
Mammoth pool dome
squaw dome (this might be a bit over an hour depending on which way you go)
disappearing dome
Shuteye Ridge:
Both Eagle Beaks
Crocodile Rock
Big Sleep
Lost Eagle
Rock Creek
Queens Throne
The talon
High Eagle
Dreamscape area
Little Sleep
The Aerie
55 7's which i though was originally called 55-10's...whatever
Fresno and Hawk dome
there's probably one or two i'm forgetting.
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
"My latina hottie friend"
Everyone needs one of those, Dingus. Maybe a couple!
There used to be an online site that had a bunch of updated info on SoYo... Anyone know what happened to it? It would be nice to have again. I'm not holding my breath for a new guidebook anytime soon...
edit: Maybe some of you guys will know what this is... I used to guide a lot a lot of gumbies at The Balls, for Cal Outfitters when they were around. After a long day of belaying Boy and Girl Scouts on the slabs, we decided to head over to Fresno Dome to meet some other folks. We took this bumpy ass dirt road from Beashore Meadow Rd. over to the Fresno Dome area. I was riding bitch in a friend's truck and remember looking out over this canyon/gorge, to the left, which had a sizable rock face on the north wall, south facing. Anyone have any clues? Tried to find it on Google Earth about a year ago, but didn't really get anywhere...
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Bit's & pieces of new route info have been floating all over the internet for some time.
You may be recalling Thomas Hartmann's online supplement from Rock & Ice from the mid 90s. Clint somehow captured it before it was pulled. I only have print outs.
Certainly, as you know, a lot of new info is available for Shuteye Ridge on rc.com.
|
|
Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
|
|
Never realized that the two guide books I found at Wilderness Exchange in Berkeley, SoYo by Spencer and Sequoia/Kings by Vernon, Hickey and Moser, would be two of the hardest guidebooks to find. And I only paid $15 for both.
Guess it's about time to put them to good use!
Thanks for the writing DR, very cool read.
-n
edit: I wrote the wrong name for the author of the SoYo book. Thanks for pointing that out crazyhorse!
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
I think those books are hard to find for most people, for sure. But then I'll be somewhere and run into a stack of them. Same with the domelands guide right now. I know where about 50 of them are located. Original price.
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
I always have time to indulge in a Dingus tale!
"I bought my Spencer guide in Fresno from that Blaine dude that worked at what was it called, Blackstone Mountaineering?"
I think you mean Blaine Harmon at Heubner's? Could also be SHane at California Outfitters...
Blaine Harmon with a little less red hair, a couple of years ago:
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
Yep, Sean moved.
Just wrote me this morning that he's taking his kids to Florida. When he gets back to New England he's all jazzed about going ice climbing for the first time.
Crazy, thanks for the breakout of 2wd. My poor little car's already got enough dents down under.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
DMT,
HAHAHAH, at least you found Grey Eagle. Our first time we foolishly tried to approach from above and spent 6 hours bushwhacking and downclimbing not to find the dome. Tried to follow those wires too. Didn't work so well. The beers were earned that day.
Since then I have found the 30-40 minute approach from below. Much more pleasant...
kev
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
VIVA California and Mexican food, and the women (and men) that make it.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
Brad says the service bit donkeys arse and food was mediocre at best and the manager had asked how the food was and when Brad mentioned how it was the guy could have cared less.
hrm, mixed reports. Not enough for me yet.
Besides I like the family that runs La Morenita better. Too bad they never stay open late.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 02:22pm PT
|
Hey Hey Hey
what's all this about places further North than Yosemite?
Do you think I started this thread to talk about STEAK???
(where'd that ball go, anyway?)
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
Blaine is still fit as ever, Dingus. We went up to The Cookie last weekend and he was a machine. MiniTraxed Outer Limits, HARDD (sp?), Twilight Zone, Crack-A-GoGo, Red Zinger a couple of times, America's Cup a few times, and both pitches of Meat Grinder. Yep, a machine. Great guy.
He was probably headed out to Little Table Mountain with those bolts... I've only climbed there a couple of time; under the blackness of the night. Mountain biked from the park-and-ride to the huge boulder in the saddle on the very north end of the table, right on the 145, headed over to Friant. All stealth-like. Bummer that place is closed and I missed the time period when it was open. I can't imagine having good climbing 15 minutes from my door here. I know there have been attempts, even recent, I believe, to get it opened back up.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
Kev wrote: Since then I have found the 30-40 minute approach from below. Much more pleasant...
Dave Daly and I put some serious time into that approach on the way to put in a new line we called 'intrepid voyage' ~600 ft. 5.10a not alot of fixed pro. it still needs some work on the section just before you drop into the creek. If i've given you a topo of any routes i've put in, no doubt you have read the admonition to climb with a pair of pruning shears to help keep the area's approaches not insanely bad. 30 minutes on the way up or down will really help keep the brush back y'all.
My first time out to that dome we ended up bush whacking for hours, to get to a seriously classic route and ended up walking out in the dark. What a great time!!!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
When are we all going to meet up for climbing in So Yo this year?
We are all real nice "hoards" that bring beer. Though I've given up lopper addiction. I got a nice pair I'd like to give away. Does lopping ever feel like chipping to anyone?
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
You talking about the oven roasted pizza place next to Morenita?
bummer if so. I was hoping to try them out this year. The pie in the sky place just doesn't do it for me. Their place cooks in the summer time. No ac.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
This thread should read "Southern Yosemite Salsa"
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
Could open pretty early this year. There's just not been a lot of snow. I was at Courtright in December this year... Go figure.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
Nef. wrote: Bummer that place is closed and I missed the time period when it was open. I can't imagine having good climbing 15 minutes from my door here.
There's a new area with a few estd. routes that i helped get going we're calling the Mesa. Locale unannouceable at this point due to access issues but it's a great winter destination ~20 minutes up old auberry road from fresno. Very similar rock to Jailhouse with beautiful wildflower strewn approaches. Also covered in those big black tarantulas, a bit of poison oak here and there but not as bad as the grotto/jailhouse/gold wall, deer grazing on top of the table in the evening, yes there are a few rattlers here and there, and theres a hawk floating around as well. I can put anyone in touch with local FAers if needed as i'm not in the area anymore. approach is about an hour from the car.
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
I have an idea of where you're talking about, horse. I went up there a number of years ago with Carlos Daniels and this wanker dude, Alex, and someone from the group that owns it. They were considering opening it for climbing. Looked to be some pretty decent rock up there Particularly in a caveish area, and a lot of bad rock too. I remember pulling down plenty of microwave-sized blocks while putting up a couple of routes... Not sure what ever happened with the whole thing, as I just went on a couple of days to check it out and do some climbing. The hike in was actually pretty pleasant.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
May I've got sumpin brewing with a bit of time off planned, June would be groovy.
Tiki Jer? you out there? Tor? Matt? Brutus? everyone? hoards?
Ding, I remember now about the bbq spot. It has a bar and used to house 'Cafe 108' for a time. Duly noted.
edit - may have to go stealth, werd is I'm in arrears for my SSCA membership dues.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
They were considering opening it for climbing...
well there's like 10 routes in right now. A few up a serious 40-50' roof called the Matrix Roof all 12's and 13's very similar to an area I climbed at in Utah (in the Uintas range.) and a few moderates.
Skeleton Crew .10d ~25M
Circumstantial Evidence .10c ~25M
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
DMT, Munge,
Snake Crack on Squaw Dome is a moderate gem, IMHO. It's done in 3 long pitches, not the 5 or so as shown on the topo. Prepare to bushwhack if you don't find the right approach road from the south.
Speaking of Squaw, if anyone knows the author of the 5.10 slab pitch just to the right of Snake Crack, I'd love to know.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Last year I was heading to sqaw and discovered that the forest disservice had done stealth road closures. While a road closure plan it was up for public review they bulldozed up berms and dropped trees so you can't drive up to that gravel parking/camping area anymore.
That 5.5/5.6 thing is fun fun fun.
kev
|
|
spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
|
|
Hey Munge, can I get in on this shindig? I can try and make the time to get down there.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
Speaking of Squaw, if anyone knows the author of the 5.10 slab pitch just to the right of Snake Crack, I'd love to know.
i've been told by a few people that it was put in back in the day by mark maciaczek.
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
The route I'm curious about is the big, wide crack that splits jackass rock... Not in the book, but so obvious.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Very obvious and eyed by many. Someone has had to do it. I can't believe it hasn't been climbed...
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
Oh. Well then, that's easy. I have a project for the upcoming season. It's simply a sin that it hasn't been done. I'd have thought it would have been one of the first in the area.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
it's been done, and it's really not as good as it looks from the road. I haven't actually done it, but when i went up there it looked very uninteresting. It's more like a tube, there's not much trad gear up there because the 'crack' is bolted.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
Hey fellas, have any of you done the South Pillar on Fresno Dome? I've had a woody for that route for a long time but wasn't sure of how sustained or runout it is for 5.8. Ive heard the belays are just slung chickenheads. I'm not super bold but would love to do this route. Is it really about 5-6 pitches? We're thinking of gittin in there early on motorcycles as soon as some of the snow melts, which should be soon sadly.
Scott
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
Yes, Micronut -- you gotta do the South Pillar! It is SO good.
I have done it 8-10 times, mostly guiding. It's more like 7 pitches thanks to terrain and rope drag. Longest route on the Dome, and a real favorite. I first climbed it while guiding for Rockcraft, a decade before the "FA" according to Spencer.
The 5.8 is right off the ground. Toe of the buttress, two bolts protect a few moves of delicate face (we initially avoided this little headwall by a minor variation to the right, but I recommend the "direct"), then one more bolt before you romp up onto cracks and chickenheads for several pitches that rarely get above 5.5.
Yes, there are chickenhead belays, but what chickenheads! We're talking a foot across with big chicken lips to hold your tieoff. You could anchor to two or three of them within arms reach some places.
After several pitches -- maybe 4 -- you come out onto the top of a tower on the buttress. Nice lunch spot. Above is a left-facing corner with slab climbing leaving it to the left. Good climbing but sparce pro. Diagonal right instead, up a steeper wall. The chickenheads have downsized here to beautiful plates. The next pitch goes up a short vertical spot -- feels a little like a roof -- then it slabs off toward the summit.
Just when you're ready to unrope there is one more spot to belay downclimbing into a notch. Bolt to protect the second here.
I'm going to go look for a photo now.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
Yeah,
i agree with DR's description. It's a great route. i've climbed it probably 6 times. It's fun!!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
"i've been told by a few people that it was put in back in the day by mark maciaczek."
As I suspected. Can you ask him, Matt? Is there an independent second pitch?
|
|
Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
|
|
Approaching squaw Dome on a hot summer morning, the bushwack through manzanita has us looking like we had been raked by an evil clawed mountain badger. Sweat dripped down my face. Lars Johansen knew the way. LOL!
I led the first pitch and upon setting up the belay, I spotted the nice open climbers trail leading to the base of the climb. It is farther up the road than you expect and it avoids the manzanita garden.
Don't miss the secret swimming hole.
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
Werner busted us all, suggested we rename this thread Salsa!
But I detect a strong theme of manzanita.
Munge threw down a clear gauntlet, Southern Yosemite's own ethical conundrum of Clean Approaching:
Does lopping ever feel like chipping to anyone?
And what does this lot do? Sweep it under the table. Twenty posts back he said it, a veritable voice crying in the wilderness. And nary a word (though I have learned a lot about the food along the Sonora Pass corridor...)
Well I'm here to tell you that I've never lopped. That's right, not once.
Oh, I've clipped the lopping of others. But hey...it was there.
I have even faced down Extreme Manzanita(tm) in shorts. I have a secret technique. It's called Sloth. I have noticed that the secret to Extreme Manzanita(tm) is to go slow. Pick my way through the thicket.
Some may call this mincing. But they cannot impugn my manhood. I may not be fast. I may not even be half-fast. But I rarely draw blood.
I am a follower of the Kauk way. In the venerable text, Ron of the headband admonished us to "get inside the move." This text has been variously interpreted by different sects of the brotherhood of the manzanita, I am well aware. Some even crawl. But I say unto them, "Stand up brothers! Were you not born into the sunlight of uprightness?"
There are those who say they have seen me, standing on a rock surrounded by a sea of manzanita and not moving. Stroking my beard and staring, as if completely flummoxed by the red-barked foe. Clearly they fail to see that in those moments I have transcended even getting inside the move, and have reached the ultimate state of fully "contemplating the move(tm)."
I pity those whose vision is so limited they think me stymied, when actually I have entered into the Zen of the Thicket.
Yours in the Eternal Brotherhood of Scratched Thighs.
PEace
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
Hey come on down Mungie. We'll get back on Chiquito too.
Nate, Dave and I would love to show you some areas.
You too Brutus and DMT and Nef.
Matt when your back in the area lets rope up!!
|
|
Wack
climber
Dazevue
|
|
"crazy horse
Speaking of Squaw, if anyone knows the author of the 5.10 slab pitch just to the right of Snake Crack, I'd love to know.
i've been told by a few people that it was put in back in the day by mark maciaczek."
Medusa was put up on lead by Pat Howes, Scott Furusho and Bob Nungester a couple of decades ago. We bailed on putting in the second pitch as things were getting a bit toasty. An ice cold beer while wallowing in Granite Creek sounded like more fun. We were fortunate that 5/16" Rawls were available then, sorry about massacring the first bolt. Prior to that with Jim Wellman we added Voyeur, named for the window at the top located R of West Face.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
Thanks for the beta Wack
for all interested, i found a weather station above north fork a month or two ago when i was up there checking out the extent of the snow. I'm not sure how well it's maintained and therefore the data might not be accurate, but here it is anyways
http://cdec.water.ca.gov/cgi-progs/queryF?s=PCK
Cheers
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
Here's another weather station located at the Minarets Workstation Heliport.
http://www.met.utah.edu/cgi-bin/droman/meso_base.cgi?stn=MTTC1
The heliport is about 4 miles north of Mammoth Pool reservoir and about 2 miles south of Jackass Rock.
This station does not have a snow pillow - but if the temp shows 34 or below and the humidity is above 90% - good chance that snow is falling even if the rain bucket shows no gain.
BTW - a friend of mine is wintered in at his cabin in the area - talked to him this morning - says it's puking snow with about 6 inches new on top of the 15-18 already on the ground.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
Sounds like its on. I'll try and ping some folks later tonight or this weekend since I prolly won't be climbing.
now, about this lopping thing. Don't get me wrong, I've made some trails. And I think trails can really be a good way to minimize plant destruction. It's just that I worry about the perception of heavy handed tactics. I mean, how do hikers create new trails officially? Just because they are part of 'trails' crew doesn't necessarily mean they should get to use explosives to make trails.
http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=43189&sid=90e617c1c8e09d0eebc1defd514f335d
Why not walk around? Redirect the trail? I'm just really confused about the whole standards of creating a hiking trail thang these days.
edit to clarify my irony implied by the explosives cross link.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Yes, thanks indeed for chiming in Wack!
Would you be able to peg the exact dates or years of your ascents? Future guide or no, some of us are at least trying to compile some accurate historical record of climbing in the area.
And Doug,
Excellent thoughts and writing on the sensitive manzanita chopping ethical debate. I was going to chime in earlier on Munge's subtle query, but didn't have the prerequisite strong opinion on salsa consistency.
Chopping does rub me the wrong way, as my fine climbing comrades know too well. They even threaten to bring trusty Cyndi Lopper to crags with an hour long approach. After all, who in their right mind will ever pass this way again? Then they pull out the old "if you build it, they will come" argument.
I wear my cuts and scrapes for weeks afterwards like a badge of honor - an ever present cherished reminder of my rare adventures into the obscure. I gloat when my kids wince at the site of my legs after a fine day in the brush. I mourn the loss of the peeling scabs.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
BwaHaaaHaa Haa...........you bushwhacker you!!
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
I know I was really saddened and pissed by the way the forest service f*#ked up the ridge at Tollhouse, when they removed the manzanita from the top... A total joke.
|
|
Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
|
|
Re: loping... I have always been a little uneasy with it myself. I am definitely not a fan walking through the middle of a thicket and cutting my way through. And a lot of the time, it is possible to find a longer, more circuitous way that does not involve so much destruction. Some times it can not be avoided. One of those damned if you do, damned if you don't kinda things.
Dingus said:
"I hear you dude. I don't worry about it myself. What few I've made no one is going to find without explicit directions...Oh well. Tiz better to seek forgiveness than it is permission.
DMT"
I am not trying to rag on you Dingus but how can you say no one will find your trails? There has to be an end point of your trail, some place you thought worthy of cutting your way to, you don't think someone else will see the same thing? Maybe not, just thinking out loud here...
Oh and I think the saying is, "It is easier to seek forgiveness than permission." =)
-n
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
Scuff, I want to use explosives too then. :)
|
|
Ropeboy
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
LOST TRAIL: Grand Imperial Highway. I climbed at Tollhouse Rock last weekend and could not find the trail cut through the brush that goes from the bottom of the decent gully to the Tollhouse Traverse area. I traversed left and right three times slong the bottom of the rock utterin' WTF under my breath and finally went further North and used an alternate path. This is a personal mystery to me right now because I am the one who cut the trail. I used this trail only a few weeks ago so it is not a case of being overgrown. I think that I missed the entry to it because I was not looking for it soon enough, or a mass of heavy brush had fallen recently obscuring the path right at the beginning.
Next trip I will be taking some (Gasp!)surveyor's tape to mark the trail.
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
Some SoYo shots fer yer viewing pleasure -
Slabby dome that sits on the north side of Mammoth Pool Reservoir back by Kaiser Creek -
Boulder the Globe -
Squaw Domes as seen from The Balls -
Roof of The Balls -
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
A ways upthread by now, but I finally found a shot of the South Buttress on Wamello (Fresno) Dome. Not great, but...
This would be pitch 5 or 6. That great lunch platform is in the background. My son Tory, much younger, on his second multipitch.
|
|
Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
|
|
Doug - a cleaned up version
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
Thank you Mike! That's amazing.
Can I ship you all my old slides?
|
|
Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
|
|
Sorry Doug - somehow this morning was right for messing with photos. Don't know when that will happen again. You know, it's pretty easy. I spent $60 on Photoshop Elements and have been having a lot of fun.
Mike
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2009 - 01:15am PT
|
you mean this one?
heh, you're looking like you could live on an oil derrick with the droop stache
--whoa, holy edits batman
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2009 - 01:58am PT
|
still experimenting with posting photos...
went out to do a route on this rock this fall supposing it to be an FA. Recently acquired ancient route descriptions cast some doubt on this, but i did find an anchor on the huge ledge 2/3 of the way up. Brand new/stainless steel 3/8. Anyone know who put this in? Where the route goes?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2009 - 02:51pm PT
|
The Balls dwarfted by the Minarets
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2009 - 02:54pm PT
|
Shuteye light
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2009 - 04:13pm PT
|
really nice pictures Tork,
i'll see your one rainbow, and raise you one rainbow
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2009 - 04:35pm PT
|
I'll see your rainbow Matt and raise you one giant dinosaur turd
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2009 - 04:39pm PT
|
I'll even throw in a crazy climber
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2009 - 10:02am PT
|
Don't let the SoYo thread die
Who has photos? Stories? Anything?
I know you have more, Matt,DR,Munge,Ricky...
Minerva,Red,Gray, and Electric Eagle
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2009 - 10:56am PT
|
OK Tork, I'll bite: where is that huge steep slab dwarfing the climber? Looks awesome, but maybe not TOO hard?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2009 - 11:46am PT
|
Doug, thats Matt S on a new route on Chiquito Dome. I think it's called the Big Banana 11a. 400' in two long pitches. One of the coolest faces I have ever climbed plus all the holds are natural I think.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2009 - 11:59am PT
|
dito. Big Banana is one of the best 5.11 face routes I've ever done. Steep, big gaps between holds with a little help from some thin feet. Great route. I don't think there's any doubt that all the holds are natural...Tork and his lady got the 2nd ascent of the route, I got the third, but i still have to do the finish pitch so i don't know if that really counts. I was just glad to get the first pitch without falling :)
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2009 - 12:08pm PT
|
That is an impressive looking face!
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2009 - 12:21pm PT
|
Beautiful, just beautiful.
Must get there someday..while I can still walk.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
|
Nate, thanks for the link! Good read and great history.
I would be into replacing the bolts although several routes cross the original line. The route in the photo is an independant line but the next three routes left of this one cross the original.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2009 - 06:26pm PT
|
Tork,
I usually have lots of ASCA bolts and hangers, and would be psyched to get back there and replace the bolts on Sahib.
Joel and I replaced the bolts on Elegant Inclinations last June, but didn't have time to fix both routes in the same weekend.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=621065
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2009 - 06:39pm PT
|
Speaking of Sahib,
has anyone done it? I remember walking up there probably 8 years ago with my minty Spencer guide and the route was so run out that i really couldn't tell where it was supposed to go. Even if i could link the sequence of holds and bolts together, i don't think i would have ever climbed it, even if the bolts were replaced.
I remember the bottom 40 ft of rope would have been spent clipping one bolt like 15 feet off the ground and traversing diagonally up and right through a very ballsy steep section to another bolt way over while climbing 5.9-5.10 slab and risking a definate decking fall on said terrain. Can anyone correct me on this? False impression from the ground?
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2009 - 06:42pm PT
|
The bolts on p.1 of Sahib were replaced by Brandon Thau and maybe Greg Vernon (correct me if I'm wrong), a handful of years ago. They didn't finish the rest. Greg also relayed that someone put in a direct start to p.1 of Sahib, just to the right. It appeared to me to be a steeper line and equally bold/scary (if I don't have the lines confused). I think Thomas Hartmann mentioned it also, so it's over 10 years old. Don't know if newer routes potentially obscure that pitch as well, as I haven't been back since all the activity.
Grahm and Brandon, I suppose, would best be able to identify the original line of Sahib. Don't know if any bolts on the higher pitches were utilized/replaced for the newer routes. If anyone else on this forum has climbed Sahib, feel free to chime in.
If you are reading, Tom (LongAgo), it would be cool if you had a much higher resolution version/scan of the one photo of the route posted on your site. Any other photos would be helpful as well.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2009 - 08:29pm PT
|
Well done Clint! Tom had said the Spencer topo was accurate to what he supplied and that the climber in that picture is either near or at the top of p.1 or the start of p.2. I reckon the climb continues up that rightward trending weakness, but what do I know? Don't have the guidebook in front of me, but I recall p.1 comes in from the left, so the new routes may cross p.1, but maybe not further up. Unless there is a route right of Big Banana. Tork?
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2009 - 08:48pm PT
|
Nate,
Here's the Sahib topo from the Spencer guidebook
(I edited out the Elegant Inclinations topo, which was shown a little too close on the right):
The topo shows a shaded bulge which p1 diagonals underneath. I'm not sure, but I think the same bulge is visible on both photos,
so that agrees with the climber in the AAJ photo being near the end of p1.
It should be easy enough to locate those belay bolts.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2009 - 08:48pm PT
|
cool pics, was just looking at the book last night and was thinking about the bolts... remembering that Clint and Joel had replaced one of the routes.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
|
CC,
Hmm, forgot the upper pitches trend back left.
I think the shaded area is evident in this photo of yours.
Before the new routes went in, I recall looking with binoculars and seeing a bolt with weathered tat just below this shaded/steeper area (the darkest spot in the lower middle), and I think a bolt further down below, but still in the knobs.
|
|
Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
|
Feb 12, 2009 - 01:21am PT
|
"Anyone know how The Balls got their name?"
Apologies for the following colorful language.
I can't remember if it was Virgil, the Miwok Indian who could still trace his tribes' old trade trail for many miles east of North Fork, or the local young (at the time) couple "Dave and Wanda"? whose dog was bitten by the rattlesnake or somebody else on the Minarets Work Station Crew, but somebody gave me the following info. the summer I worked up that way.
They said most of the formations in the area used to have other names, but they were later cleaned up. You can see why.
Squaw Domes was "Squaw xxxs"
Fuller Buttes was "Fuller's xxxx".
Balloon Dome was "Preacher's xxxxx".
the Balls was "Jackass Balls."
I don't know about Jackass Rock
None of this is too far from what is still called Hell's Half Acre.
That was long enough for the colorful language to be up. you can fill in the blanks now.
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Feb 12, 2009 - 11:41am PT
|
Why it's as if the local intellectuals were showing off their @q%#X$%& vocabulary.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Feb 12, 2009 - 11:04pm PT
|
Here is a quick topo of the the Sahib area in question. I am working on a Shuteye Guide and this monumental task is slowly moving along.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Feb 12, 2009 - 11:07pm PT
|
1. 13a - The Sickness - 35m - Bolts and Rings - Climb through the far right side of the roof and up the thin face. Louie almost passed from heat exhaustion trying to get the fa and hence came a great name for a thin masterful climb. FA Louie Anderson, 07
2. Open Project - 13+ abandoned anchor at 35 meters.
3. Project - Grahm Doe 12d - Wingo - 35m - Climb up the slab which leads to the middle rib on the steep face above. This one progressively gets harder the higher you climb.
4. 10b - Sahib - 120 meters - An old classic line with a traversing first pitch. New routes that go straight up the wall have been added but the bolts for Sahib are still in their original place. P1 10b 30m Start on Wingo and then traverse across the wall clipping bolts to an anchor just above the ramp. This pitch has had the original bolts replaced but higher pitches have not. P2 10b Follow three widely spaced bolts to an anchor. P3 5.9 find one bolt and continue to another anchor. P4 5.8 One more bolt to the top and a gear anchor. FA Tom Higgins, Chris Vandiver, July, 83
5. 11C - Constellation - 120m - A fun 400 foot route that climbs on knobs, knobs, knobs. There are just enough knobs to make it interesting climbing without being too hard. For added convenience there are anchors every 30 meters so you can bail with one rope or run pitches together for 60 meter pitches. P1 60 meters 23 bolts plus Chain Anchor, Chain Midway Rap Station. P2 50 meters 16 bolts Plus Chain Anchor, Chain Midway Rap Station. If you want to summit the climb an optional 2 bolt 30 foot 5.4 slab to Rings hanging on a block can be reached. Walk off left from here. A 60m rope will reach all the way from the lower anchor to the block. FA Brent Webster, 07
6. 11C - The Big Banana - 120m - P1 11b - 60 meters 18 bolts plus Ring Anchor. P2 11c - 60 meters 15 bolts, end on the shared ring anchor hanging on a block at the top of Constellation. Another mega classic climb. The Yang to Constellation’s Ying. Rather than incut knobs the whole way there a loads of slopey knobs to be savored a plenty. FA Grahm Doe, 07
7. Open Project - A fine looking line probably 5.10 or 5.11.
8. 10d - Optional runout climbing past bolts to join Sahib.
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
|
Feb 12, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
|
Nice routes - BTW - are you the force behind the Oakhurst Wall by chance?
You name sounds familiar is all.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Feb 12, 2009 - 11:13pm PT
|
Here are some fun pics of Chiquito.
Getting through the stream in early spring...
Chipping some trees on the way there...
Don on a 10b...
Enjoying a 12b...
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Feb 12, 2009 - 11:21pm PT
|
Yup, the Oakhurst Wall is at my house. Crazy Horse helped me build it. Here's some shots for ya...
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Feb 12, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
|
Grahm,
Thanks for sharing the cool photos and beta on the new routes.
I'm glad to hear you're making progress with the guide - that has got to be a very tough project!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 11:09am PT
|
Nate and Clint, sorry for not responding, power was out for a while here in Wawona.
Clint, would be into meeting up with you in the spring, whenever the road to the top is drivable, to replace those bolts. Nate should join us as well.
Nate, could the poot sling in this photo be the weathered tat you saw? It is on a route to the right of Sahib, mentioned in the Hartman write-up, route 8,I think, in Grahms photo.
Sahib does not continue on the right trending weakness as shown in Grahms photo. From the first belay it works back left and up.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 12:00pm PT
|
So something more like this?...
The first part of 8 definetly has a poot sling down low. Maybe 50 feet off the deck. Tork did you ever get a chance to finish your line to the right? What a beauty!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 12:43pm PT
|
Hey Grahm,
No, I didn't finish it. I went back all geared up then realized there were no drill bits in my bolt kit, IDIOT! Can't wait for the spring thaw to get back on it.
Are you sure about the placement of the anchor for Sahib on your picture? I think the route crosses back over BB and Constellation. I know I have seen old bolts left of Consellation. I think it goes roughly like this picture, that would match the topo from the Spencer guide.
Jeff
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 01:42pm PT
|
it seems that where the route goes is up for debate. it would be kinda cool though as has been suggested to paint hangers, something like that to link the old sahib sections together, and now that there's new routes with modern bolts in the area, perhaps we can go and climb the route with more than 1 or 2 bolts in a pitch.
The area is so knobby that it would also be fun to just climb wherever you want and link multiple sections of multiple routes in a single pitch. Like a girdle route...every bolt has to be on a different route!!! then weave back in the opposite direction for the next pitch.
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 02:11pm PT
|
I'm thinking that since there's a number of us here that spend time in the area, that we're looking at this as kind of like an open forum. The virtual campfire for SoYo issues, thoughts, stories, etc..
" it would be kinda cool though as has been suggested to paint hangers,"
I'd be against painting hangers on routes to differ from other routes. It's bringing the gym to the outside and we might as well paint the holds too, at that point. It's really removing any adventure on the routes and bringing the route down to a lower level. People should be able to read a topo and follow it. Routefinding is part of the game. If the route is runout, you should be prepared for this, as well as be prepared to take the consequences if you fall. If people can't wrap their head and skills around this, they should stay off the route and wait until they can. Simple.
Unless, of course, you mean paint the bolts a color matching the color of the rock to help them blend in... :)
I know SoYo and a lot of the rock in it is seldom visited, and mostly by the same people and that leads to a kind of "my crag" mentality and the loosening of ethics for some people. Maybe the thinking that no one will notice or it doesn't matter. I don't agree with that mindset and it does matter. It matters to me, as well as other climbers who frequent the area. There's already some chipping. Let's leave it at that.
If I'm misunderstanding the quote, then I digress.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 02:37pm PT
|
Hi Nef,
The painting of the hangers is an idea I suggested offline to several folks, simply because with so many modern lines now crossing and in the vicinity of Sahib, I see no way that even a seasoned climber can easily discern the original line, unless a topo clearly shows every bolt on every route, and which ones were the original ones for Sahib. Even without the new routes, it was hard enough to find the line. Tom had said before "Kamps told me once he and Herb Laeger couldn't find the starting bolts. I think there was one within the first 15-20 feet." I suppose a good photo topo would aid in this significantly. You are completely right that routefinding is part of the game, but now with a plethora of bolts on that section of wall, the game is significantly more perplexing. I know it sounds like a gym, but are there any other suggestions? Leave a bit of tat on the original bolts, since it was often there anyway?
Tork,
Yes, I do remember that bit of tat, as well as some on a bolt higher and further left, under the steep section, which I presumed to be the second bolt on Sahib.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 02:58pm PT
|
If I can add on to Nate's comment, by way of example, Grahm's quick topo and description where he says for the description of Sahib to "Start on Wingo" suggests it's not easy to find the original line even with the locals all right here at the campfire. With Sahib being (one of) the original line(s), it is a bit confusing to me and I've been climbing since I was 11.
I imagine Grahm will make it very clear in his final guide and show where Sahib goes and that Wingo project would be an extension or variant off of Sahib.
With that said, are the replacement hangers on the first pitch of Sahib of a different type or manufacturer than the bolts on the nearby lines? That seems a good way to go without the circus feel of paint. That or camouflage paint to match the rock in a different way, but that sometimes invites problems on runout lines anyways.
Just some morning thoughts...
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 03:15pm PT
|
I think the fixe tan bolts would match the rock yet not be totally impossible to see. If I remember right, most the bolts on the other routes are silver.
The original route isn't that hard to find. I don't understand how anyone would have had trouble finding it before all the additions. It is easy to find the start now, it's the only route that has a 1/4" bolt at the start, unless the first bolt was chopped. You pass right by other old 1/4"ers when you climb the other lines.
Jeff
|
|
aldude
climber
Monument Manor
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
|
What a cool lookin wall! One question Grahm : Why no partners listed on the modern FAs?
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 03:57pm PT
|
I'm really hoping I don't sound like a dick or anything like that. Not trying to and I know that email and the Internet aren't good at conveying emotion/meaning behind typed words. I'm just trying to open a dialogue. Sounds like you guys get that though. Thanks for understanding.
I haven't been on this wall so, of course, I really don't know what I'm talking about and pics only show so much. I'd be down for something like Tork and Munge are talking about; using some of the different, rock colored, anchors from fixe. My concern was just heading to the crag and seeing red and neon green anchors and some of the future issues it might cause.
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 04:04pm PT
|
Ran,
You sounded concerned, not antagonistic. I think everyone is pretty much in agreement. It's wilderness, not a mobile carnival climbing wall. We all love SoYo.
gm
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 04:14pm PT
|
Has Sahib seen a second ascent besides BT and GV rebolting the first pitch? When i went out there before all of the modern routes in the area, it was very foggy to me besides the one old rusty 1/4"er near the ground.
if any type of rebolting activity were to take place, obviously replacing the 1/4"ers will be a start, but i doubt with all the route activity on the first pitch that the original bolt holes are still around. Anyone know if the lower bolts were chopped as asked earlier? GV should fully be invited along in any rebolting trip. just a thought...
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 04:45pm PT
|
How about some pics of other SoYo areas
Heres my favorite, Wo Dome
A rare day of more than one party
A new route on Wo Dome, Move Over Rover 11b, dedicated to Bush
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 04:50pm PT
|
Al: "Why no partners listed on the modern FAs?"
Yer showin yer age, dood. NTTAWWT
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 04:53pm PT
|
Heres one of a good bud, Joe, bouldering above the Queens Throne
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 05:14pm PT
|
Jeff,
Sure, let's get together in the spring to replace the bolts on Sahib!
(Like on Space Babble, it should not take very long - there are not very many of them! :-) )
We could use black hangers or a different brand ("ASCA"!)to help distinguish between the routes - like SMC vs. Leeper back in the day.
I agree with Randy - don't want green, pink, etc.! (I don't think Matt meant that, either). I remember seeing those at City of Rocks back in 1990 or so.
Nice - that does match up with Spencer's topo much better.
I think the tat sling Nate mentioned was from some years ago, before the bolts were replaced on p1.
Probably near where (4) crosses (5) in Grahm's revised photo above, before the first big runout.
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 05:15pm PT
|
Cool stuff, Tork. I've never been up to Wo Dome. I know Richard Jensen and Mark Smith (yes, those guys) who put up a number of routes there and they've been telling me I need to get up there for a while now.
Thanks, Gene! :)
edit: Anyone who would like to impart their knowledge of the fine art of (re)bolting would get any help from me they'd like.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
|
me leading the FA of Balls Deep on Nightwatch
me and tork on a 5.12 that i finished with Nico Favresse two? years ago...still no anchor on top
welding up the oakhurst wall
the finished product
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 05:25pm PT
|
Nef. wrote:
edit: Anyone who would like to impart their knowledge of the fine art of (re)bolting would get any help from me they'd like
come to any SSCA event and you will have probably 5 dudes who would love to teach. Since i've been involved with the club, we've easily replaced 500 bolts with much help and assistance both in labor and supplies from Greg (ASCA).
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 05:26pm PT
|
Matt,
The 1/4" bolts on Sahib p1 have been replaced with 3/8", as Nate mentioned.
klk,
aldude ain't showing no age - I'm sure he's well aware of the reason and just teasing. He puts up very hard face routes on lead.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 05:29pm PT
|
Well if they're still there, then that would be a pretty easy way to see where the route went since all of the modern routes have been put in within the last 2 years
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
|
Grahm climbs fricking hard. Wouldn't surprise me if that was rope solo stanced/hooked.
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 05:36pm PT
|
clint-- yeah, i know al or used to. i was just giving him a hard time.
it's not appropriate for this thread, but it was also because i've been thinking a lot recently about the rise and fall of climbing as a partnered sport.
there's a whole social history in the way the newer routes cross over the old.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 05:37pm PT
|
Randy,
I have a bunch of topos of those guys routes. Some scary looking sh#t, way bold.
Wo Dome is another candidate for bolt replacement
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
|
Tork - That sucks! I hiked all the way to Electric with gear ropes etc to finish a route and same thing... No drill bits. Dooh! Thats the worst feeling.
Sahib definitely has an anchor a ways right of Banana. Maybe not quite as far as pictured but its over there.
I did notice an old quarter incher left of Constellation somewhere. I thought this was just an odd ball bolt you find hanging on walls sometimes from other people checking it out. Maybe Sahib weaves way back left and finishes above Wingo. If that's the case then the route traverses right 60 feet on the first pitch and then back left 60 feet maybe more before finishing. They mentioned a small crack toward the top. This should help finding it. I actually originally thought Sahib went up "8" past the poot sling to the anchor and the real Sahib was a contrived variation start because it had newer bolts!
I also thought Sahib went up the trough to the right on the second pitch because that looked like the path of least resistance. And they talked about climbing through a "depression" However I could see how they could trend out left as the knobs are gigantic even though they run diagonally across the wall. Had no idea we were even crossing Sahib. I thought the whole thing was to the right when we were putting up our lines.
The bolts on Sahib's first pitch stand out against the all stainless steel bolts on the new routes. Also it follows the easiest line of knobs across the wall. It would be hard to get lost. Just stay on the biggest knobs. Probably same thing for the other pitches.
Nobody chopped any bolts so whatever was there before should still be.
I don't plan on adding more pitches to Wingo. Not really interested in climbing a 12d and then finishing up a 5.9.
Also Sahib probably starts further left of Wingo where the features are bigger and the climbing is easier. Because of all the huge traversing this route is a bit of a mystery for now.
Looking forward to figuring this out in the spring!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
|
ParTAY at Chiquito
Chiquito Burrito Mosquito SPIRito
|
|
hungry man
Trad climber
around
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
|
Thanks for the awesome thread, everyone! beautiful pictures.
I've posted this one before,
Edit:
I was really disappointed when I got up there last time. Someone recently drilled a bolt ladder on the 2nd (or 3rd) pitch of the Beckey Route/Blue Moon. I was shocked because it has been climbed so many times without those bolts.
Bummer! Anyone know the story?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
|
Grahm,
Thanks for the input.
Forgetting the bits wasn't so bad, I got a lot more climbing in that day.
Munge,
Your right, Grahm is wicked strong but I don't think hooking is his thing.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 06:17pm PT
|
I'll see your scenic shot and raise you four!
The magic sign...
Wish there was something to climb around here...
Peekaboo Beak...
Electrified by Gray...
What to climb first?
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 06:21pm PT
|
That's a lot of rock...
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 06:28pm PT
|
I almost got electrified getting this pic above Gray
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
|
From the road!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
|
Shocking! I can almost hear the sizzle in the air!
Munge - It would surprise me! Rope solo stance hooking is more a Crazy Horse kinda thing...
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 06:36pm PT
|
Matt,
How about the pics of you putting up that route in the snow storm?
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
|
"I almost got electrified getting this pic above Gray "
Ummm... don't do that, Jeff. It is HIGHLY not recommended. Don't ask how I know. :(
Also, I've found that Richard and Mark's aid routes are pretty bold and stout too. Really nice guys.
matt - yeah, I should probably spend some more time with the SSCA folks. It's been a while. Picked up a bulldog from Eppie last year and have been anxious to get out and learn the tricks. Was thinking about replacing some bolts in Courtright this year with my partner Blaine.
Damn! There's some fine looking stuff in here! Love the last batch of pics, Graham.
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 10:46pm PT
|
Since you bros is in the knows - curious as to who among you laid out the bolt walks on the third tier of The Balls?
Curious because whoever set these things must be 7 foot tall cause the lead-off hangers are way the hell up there...and there's NO room to drop back if you blow that first move!!!!!!
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 10:50pm PT
|
Wow! can I come?
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2009 - 03:48am PT
|
Crazy Horse's pic...
Tor, Munge, Crazy Horse, and ? (doh, the mental acuity ain't what it used to be. Sorry.)
Tiki-Jer, did you take the pic? memory is shot for sure.
This was after topping out on Chiquito. We had started on Tootsie, and connected to The Acolyte I believe based on the notes I wrote down from CH.
Which formations are in the background in the pic? Shuteye?
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2009 - 11:52am PT
|
Hey Mungie, Yeah I did take that photo. The guy on the right was a visiting climber from France. I think his name is Benoit.
Never saw him again after that trip.
You guys climbed Tootsie and Matt and I did Jigsaw.
I helped him on the rebolting of that route.
It was a project that was done at that event.
Got to climb the 2nd pitch on the old 1/4" bolts w/ leeper hangers, Crazy Horse followed the pitch after rebolting with new stainless.
If I'm not mistaken the 2pitch had 3 bolts. Old school 5.8 and run.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2009 - 11:55am PT
|
Oh Yeah...........in the extreme background you have the Eagle Beaks too.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2009 - 11:58am PT
|
One more thing...I remember Jack Delk telling me that there is a nest of Rattlers up on top of Chiquito. Not too far from where we were standing. Maybe one of them got Benoit??
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2009 - 01:04pm PT
|
Clint,
On Elagant Inclineations, your topo shows one bolt at the anchor on pitch 3 after the crux, is that all you get or is ther gear or a knob as well?
Jeff
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2009 - 04:00pm PT
|
Jeff,
I think the way to anchor there is to clip that bolt and the next one as well, then climb back down to the first one. I don't remember seeing gear there. Maybe on the first ascent they led to the second bolt after the traverse and then realized there was too much rope drag, so they used both to anchor.
I was just trying to reproduce Spencer's topo, which I believe is close to Higgins' original topo. When you rappel the route, you go straight from (4) to (2) (or even (1) ). We did at a bolt at (5), using my own bolt and hanger.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2009 - 04:00pm PT
|
thx Ger and Clint for the IDs
heh, I have written in my guide book: "snakes" on top of the dome because of that story.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2009 - 05:45pm PT
|
Ricky,
If I'm correct in my guess of where you are talking about - those were done by Jerry & Sigrid Anderson and a few by our resident crazy horse.
A friend goofin' off at the Balls.
The softer side of Chiquito, by tiki-jer. Climbers starting up Jigsaw Puzzle and The Acolyte.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2009 - 07:57pm PT
|
A few photos:
Debbie on p2 of Eine Kleine Nachtmusik, High Eagle
Mike on Paradise Lost, Shangri-La
Dan on the summit boulder of Shangri-La, The Balls in left background
|
|
randomtask
climber
North fork, CA
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2009 - 06:12pm PT
|
bump
-JR
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2009 - 10:07pm PT
|
Clint,
Love that photo of Dan on the summit of Shangrila.
There are some fun routes there, its just way to bad they had to squeeze them so close together. It really shows in the photo of Paradise Lost.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2009 - 11:00pm PT
|
bump...nice pics, Clint...
|
|
east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2009 - 11:05pm PT
|
the rock on high eagle looks soooo gooood!!!
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2009 - 10:06pm PT
|
Tiki-jer - this is the formation I was referring to -
Close up of the third tier
Did someone say chicken heads -
Charming Dawn tops out -
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2009 - 10:49pm PT
|
Pitch three of Wanderlust on Gray Eagle, loaded with chicken heads.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2009 - 11:02pm PT
|
Anyone want to do the Obelisk?
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2009 - 01:02am PT
|
Ricky D,
I've put up several routes on the formation. I've forgotten the names of many of them. Almost all of them were put up from the ground up rope solo (no hooking) after guiding days at SYMG, so wherever the bolts are, were from stances looking at serious falls myself...On the steep tier (the 3rd) above the slabby part (the 2nd), there is a route or two that are Mark Spencer FA's that have been rebolted, and all the rest were put in by Jerry A as far as i know. BTW he is a tall dude!!!
I remember free soloing on the formation when a huge tree between me and the road spontaneously fell over!!! It was so loud i thought the world was coming to an end and nobody that i know of besides me heard it. i was pretty sketched!
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2009 - 07:53pm PT
|
Hey Gang...Tiki-Ger, Matt, Nater, munge etc!
Been out of the office breaking the govt's "33 million dollar a copy Sierra noise maker". ;) Good stuff and sweet pixs too. As Nate mentioned, SoYo is deeply embedded in my soul. What a great place it is. "Cyndi" agrees too, eh Nate? BTW, slashed up pale, hairy legs are unbecoming there in the Bay area these days.
Props to 'King Tiki-Ger'....long live the king!
Tiki-Ger on some fine SoYo slab
Grahm on 'Twilight' (.12d), Lost Eagle. This route is on the buttress behind Ger in the previous photo.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2009 - 07:59pm PT
|
Very sweet looking rock and location for sure.
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
|
Oh yeah....consider your backside smooched by the mooch DMT. El Cid SUCKS ASS! Its gone downhill. Rather get a can of corned beef hash from the Jones Store...shelf life dated 1305 BD.
Salsa?? You mean the weak watery tomato bits they serve to keep a starving person at bay? Pffffffttttt.....
Much love,
Dave
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
|
OH NOOOOOO - you had to go and mention the word "salsa"!!!!
That's what killed the last SoYo thread.
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
|
Crazy Horse (aka Neil's Son) -
What was that route you and I did on Gray Eagle that was right of Lightning Bolt (I believe you see the start on the left part of the photo)...possibly a Sean Jones route? .10c?? Stellar good stuff....runout slab above as I remember....or did I skip a few along the way? ;)
Hey Munge.....Brutus and The Good Nurse Ratchet gave Ger, Nate and myself the invite to Hoffman this go around. Sounds like supreme fun!!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2009 - 09:07pm PT
|
Nice shot of the King on his throne!
Heres a few more.
Tom Slater on See You In Heaven - 10a
A mysterious well featured wall with all gear routes.
Hanging 30 - 11d High Ball
Swing Town - 13a or b
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2009 - 10:09am PT
|
Hey Grahm, Very nice picture of Hanging 30.
Love the gnarly tree and the snowcapped peaks.
That pyramid shaped boulder below looks like a head splitter.
How's the landing?
Was that 'Prolly Bomber' on the the mysterious wall?
Ger
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2009 - 10:15am PT
|
Mooch, I am in NO way a King.
Only a lowly court jester or a freak on a leash.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2009 - 11:19am PT
|
Hey Ger,
The landing on Hanging 30 is "good" in places. The crux is going out the middle of the roof down and right of the pic. A blind throw to the lip while your body is horizontal 20 feet above some bushes. Then the easier moves of the finish move out left over the death pyramid. Pretty easy to set up a top rope for working it.
Good eyes that is indeed "Probably Bomber". Did I hear correct that you got the second on "The Spice Is Right". Just to the right?
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
|
Court jester? I thought that was Nate. ;) Pretty sure I've been appointed as 'The Bushmaster'.....trusty lopers in hand!
More good stuff: The Bushmaster on "Snackin' With Oprah", 10b (Taffy Wall)...
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
|
Grahm, I don't think I,ve done that yet.
Did you ever get on WingMan?
Ger
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2009 - 02:49pm PT
|
Don't think any of us has tackled 'The Spice Is Right'. After hearing Grahm grunt a bit thru the stretched out crux (I think it was a slung marginal chickenhead 20-25' below), I would more than likely require some "liquid courage" prior to the attempt. As I recall, a fall at that point might end up as a face plant on the deck below! =[
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2009 - 07:43pm PT
|
Ahhhh, yes....the beloved 'Melting Wall'! Slings anyone? :)!!Good shot of you Grahm on 'Prolly'! As I remember, you're just below the crux (The "Prolly Bomber" piece: #5 Met TCU?)
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2009 - 07:49pm PT
|
The way the rock is featured in that area is stunning!
(almost like the rock was designed by a climber)
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
|
Nice shot of "Snackin". Looks like fun. I think I see some steep stuff to the left? No don't tell me, I have enough to do!
Haven't tried Wingman yet. Maybe I'll get a chance before the Shuteye Pool Party this year...
For "Spice" you get to sling those bomber chicken heads just right of my foot. After that you have to go aways. I do remember grunting and not wanting to fall!
Yup, a sweet tcu on "prolly" is key just before launching into the crux. It slides in between two knob flakes. I remember thinking its "Probably Bomber".
Speaking of the pool party...
Does something smells like wet dog!?
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 01:28am PT
|
HA! As you know, the steep stuff is always "just around the corner". Nice shots G.
Ah, yes....the pools. What a great place to cool off after a day of climbing!
And before its asked by......its somewhere in SoYo. ;) You boys and girls can keep The Big Ditch.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 02:41am PT
|
Brutus coming up on Red Tail
|
|
scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2009 - 11:57am PT
|
So it seems the "salsa" at El Cid's ain't so great these days.
Where's the GOOD stuff, then?
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 12:07pm PT
|
I'll bring my chopping board and some homegrown 'maters when we all rendezvous in the heat of the summer to share a pulldown and a brew in celebration of these Hinterlands that I can't quite bring myself to call SoYo.
This has been a GREAT ride here. I've learned so much and become so inspired and my drool list is reaching bout to my knees by now. I had no idea so many are so active, and the stone you're posting is nothing short of stellar. Now I'm so ready to met you guys and share a campfire...with salsa.
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 12:13pm PT
|
DR,
You bring the 'maters and I'll throw in the home grown peppers and onions.
gm
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 01:16pm PT
|
"had no idea so many are so active, and the stone you're posting is nothing short of stellar"
Don't be mistaken Doug. We're just a mere handful of poseurs, and most of the choss in the photos has been highly photoshopped.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
|
mos def.
photochopped.
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 01:42pm PT
|
photochossed?
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
|
yesh!! technical term meaning to make something look good despite it being udder cow choss. heh
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 02:36pm PT
|
Wouldn't photochossed be making the rock look worse than it is in reality?
Similar to photomossed, which I know Munge is guilty of doing.
OR photoslopped.
Photomopped?
I don't know, you're the pro at this Gene!
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 02:49pm PT
|
Wouldn't photochossed be making the rock look worse than it is in reality?
Don’t know. But I hear the “beta” version of Photochoss™ was only tested by sport climbers.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
|
Sounds like a Super Taco Salsa Fest!!!
I'm in!
When?
Jeff
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 03:59pm PT
|
Grahm,
Your delusional!
"The landing on Hanging 30 is "good" in places"
whatever??
Jeff
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 04:16pm PT
|
Y'know, what's a little PhotoChossing between friends? That we can handle. I mean, we're all quite sure the origins of the Ancient Art of the Sandbag are lost before recorded history.
No, it's some of the more subtle and diabolical effects I'm watching out for. Specially with you lot. I mean, when we have displayed a mouthwatering wall all advertised as totally trad, and then they start laying it on even thicker by naming climbs the likes of "Prolly Bomber," -- it's then that I start looking for the sly photo-insertion of a wee slot for that "#5 Met TCU" that gets oh-so-casually slid into the conversation.
Climbers....
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
|
The aforementioned "mouthwatering wall" will no longer be advertised.
The budget has officially run dry. Must be the economy. No wonder the first route there was named "Seek and Ye Shall Find".
My, my, but don't that pic of Red Tail by Munge, High Eagle by Clint, and Wanderlust by Tork look awful tasty!! Plates and plates a plenty! A 7-course feast to be exact! (Salsa included). Surely THOSE pics haven't been photochossed...
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 05:15pm PT
|
make our own chips? what kind of oil would be best?
photochossed?
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
|
The power of Photochoss™
Before
After
Let’s keep the idea of a Taco and Salsa Fest alive and make it happen this summer.
gm
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 05:37pm PT
|
Classic 'choss job, Munge!
I mean, if I had to climb on that pile, I would at least 'shop in a few extra pads....
See, the second guy's got it right, with those cutting-edge air-filled pads under
TacoFest, yummmmm....
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 06:00pm PT
|
DR-
Ever heard of 'entrees', sir? Drool till your hearts content.....but to get to them tasty morsels, you gotta hunt for 'em! ;) As for said "Shuteye Salsafest"......I'll bring the limes. Cinco De Mayo weekend (snow cleared off of Beasore dictating)?
Munge.....heard from Brutus in the past couple of weeks? Tried to reach him and Em. No joy.
Dingus.....bring it! Drag Brutus and Em, the Five Amigos (minerals, Nate, Tiki-Ger, I-Doc and me), DR, Gene, Crazy Horse, and Grahm....its on!
SHUTEYE SALSA-FEST '09!
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 06:11pm PT
|
I was thinking more on the lines of a Balls Brew-Ha-Ha.
But that's just me.
Maybe do 'em both.
gm
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
|
no recent direct word from Brutus. Saw a post on SPH a few days ago i think.
Prolly out on his next trip. I suspect snow disease, but could be any malady like rockdrill syndrome or his widefetish kicking in.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2009 - 07:37pm PT
|
Brutus posted this morning on
SuperTopo
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
|
I Love it. SHUTEYE SALSA-FEST '09!
I built a little grilling campfire spot next to the hot tub last year. We could grill over the open flame and if you guys are up for it I could bring out the Snorkle Stove.
Fire away...
Soakin it up...the lid is good for warming up tortillas!
|
|
randomtask
climber
North fork, CA
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 10:35pm PT
|
Grahm, how in the hell is it that you have the set-up for everything???!!!
Actually, with the way you are laughing it looks like a big big water pipe. I guess, I mean. Saw one in a film once..
-JR
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2009 - 12:22am PT
|
What in the holy fukcin hell is that GD?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2009 - 12:48am PT
|
Sheesh, u guys don't know what a Snorkle Stove is?
http://snorkel.com/hot-tub-info/snorkel-and-scuba-stoves.php
Why try to find a hot spring when u can just make your own? You can't hike very far with it but if there is running water and a tub your in there!
Nothing beats enjoying the night sky from a hot tub. Unless of course your enjoying it at Shuteye near the crags...
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2009 - 01:12am PT
|
son of a biscuit, pure geniush!
|
|
hungry man
Trad climber
around
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2009 - 01:18am PT
|
Hey that is very Kool.
But those pools of standing water are usually disgusting!
Am I a prude, or is that a special clean one?
It looks clean.
I like things to be clean.!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2009 - 01:18am PT
|
is it ethical to mix salsa and climbing?
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2009 - 01:40am PT
|
"is it ethical to mix salsa and climbing?"
yes, but seiging the bowl, laying fixed coolers, and caches of peppers have their limits. It's a lot like ice climbing, at some point it becomes mixed and guacamole-ish.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2009 - 04:05am PT
|
i'm coming out 4th of july for a week. i'll be there for sure. anyone is welcome to join up and i can show them the area
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2009 - 11:05am PT
|
Hungry Man - " But those pools of standing water are usually disgusting! Am I a prude, or is that a special clean one?"
I am not down with stanky water. You have to drain the standing water and wipe clean before filling with fresh mountain spring water. Don't ask how. I have my ways.;-)
Crazy Horse that weekend works for me too. Maybe on the 4th I'll have to be home but the rest of the weekend is open.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2009 - 12:40pm PT
|
Crazy Horse, you're not supposed to sink to the level of
talking about salsa. You're just reaffirming the total
uselessness of Super Topo, don't you know?
Edit, GD stylee
Wipe clean!! lol
|
|
hungry man
Trad climber
around
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2009 - 01:17pm PT
|
That is nice!
"Can I pee in it?"
 Homer Simpson
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
|
I just have to say that I find the redneck hot tub a bit repulsive.
Sorry, brother Grahm.
The pools were better unadulterated, unscoured, and bolt free... and I'm sure the fish agree.
But you know me, I've never liked the idea of lopping either...
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2009 - 11:07pm PT
|
To each his own. I did remove the hangers and covered the two stainless steel studs with rocks the last time I was there.
On a different note I hit up one of the new winter crags I have been working on and got 5 new routes done today. 10a,10d,11b,11b,12a This ones a shorter wall but has some great climbing.
The season never ends!
Here's some pics...
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2009 - 11:04pm PT
|
I'm with you Nate on the "el naturale" pools.
We could elaborate further..... lopping comes at the same price as bushwhacking the same "beeline" to a crag and eventually wearing in a trail. Pretty much the same level of impact.....either today or years later. Now, the use of a chain saw to cut back anything bigger than 2"....that's going a bit far. Besides, it's not like concrete is being laid out with trail side signs. Cutting back some foliage doesn't makes the same level of impact as say.......chipping?? Plants grow back....rock doesn't.
You need to kiss and make up with "Cyndi", Nate!
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2009 - 10:16am PT
|
Hey as much as I like the Redneck Stove-thingy, I don't think it belongs out there. I was real bummed when I saw all the debris and the murky pools after the cleaning of the tub.
There are fish in there man! German Browns and they are naturals.
Fishermen have been there before us ya'll. Lets keep it pristine.
Perhaps that is why the stove was thrown out of Frustration Creek?
Think of the Fish, Man!! (Sounds like the Lorax)
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2009 - 12:26pm PT
|
Wow! Didn't realize you guys were so pissed off about this. I apologize if the initial cleaning out of the little pool negatively effected your experience out there. I am sure with all the storms we have had mother nature has scoured the whole area back to the way it was. The Snorkle Stove is never left out there.
It was not thrown out of Frustration Creek for any other reason than some vandals found it and thought it would be fun to throw it off a cliff. They did some other juvenile crap too but its not worth discussing here.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2009 - 12:51pm PT
|
Grahm, these folks don't sound "so pissed" to me,there just letting you know maybe some of the things you do out there is not cool with everybody.
At least you were invited by mooch to his salsa fest.
Jeff
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2009 - 01:09pm PT
|
Yea Grahm, we should have spoken up sooner. But, what's done is done, and none of us own the place (which I suppose is the point, really).
|
|
jstan
climber
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
|
Graham:
If the land on which you made "improvements" was included in areas open for homesteading or perhaps gold mining you are required to file a claim and further "prove it up" according to Federal requirements. This has been the rule for much longer than 100 years I believe.
Now I have another suggestion that might well permit you to do fifteen first ascents a day instead of just five, and you could, perhaps, fully use up all the possible routes in your area in just a couple of months. Just think. Fully used up in just a month or two! One of your photos shows two metal attachments to the rock right next to a natural feature that would have allowed you to scoot up it in a minute rather than having to go to the time and expense of firing up an electric drill for what? Twenty minutes? Think of how much more you could get done.
These times are so strange it is actually possible you were entirely unaware of all this prior art. If this is the case just know we understand and we hope you will soon discover the really important things available to us all in these wild areas.
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2009 - 03:07pm PT
|
HA!
Getting back to Salsafest '09.....I'll start by bringing the following:
1) "UberVegan Gringo Boy Salsa" (made especially for those jumping ship from Sushifest).
2) "Shuteye Sh#t Hot Chili Lime Salsa" (bomber!.....better than chipped/"enhanced" incuts on Chichito Dome)
3) "Loppered Loose Leaf Chutney"....surprise, surprise, surprise (insert shallow Gomer Pyle voice)! Tiki-Ger would be proud!
Top it off with ice cold Two Ikkies!
Next!
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
|
I'll start by bringing the following:
"UberVegan Gringo Boy Salsa"
Must you?
I'll bring the IPA - 'Interlands Powered Alcohol.
gm
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
|
IPA with salsa??? Ekkkkkkk!! And you say you hail from Madera Gene?
Che boludo!
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
|
I ain't no 559er. Madera! Who you kiddin'? I roll in the 209. We sauve up here.
2 ickies is brew with training wheels. Coors of Cortez. Salsa requires a beer with roughage.
IPA, babe.
Get an edjumakation, Bro!
gm
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
|
Inquiry has been made with my chef as to how best to make authentic fresh chips in the wilderness.
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2009 - 05:50pm PT
|
Salsa requires a beer with roughage
Man, you've never heard of Tijuana Tap Water?? IPA is for old fat dudes who wear plaid and eat Dinty Moore stew while tuning into The Ross Perot Chronicles.
Consider yourself uninvited gringo. ;)
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2009 - 06:05pm PT
|
"I ain't no 559er. Madera! Who you kiddin'? I roll in the 209. We sauve up here."
That's right, you're up *there* You guys stole our area code AND our UC. Bastards! hahaha And people think that *Fresno* is a hick town. Sheesh!
"Consider yourself uninvited gringo. ;) "
HAHAHAHA :)
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2009 - 07:43pm PT
|
Hey Randy.....would love to see you up there this year. Gonna try to drag Solem and crew up there as well. Hoping to put together 'Salsafest', with the help of a few 559ers and maybe a few gringos. See the 'Salsafest 2009' thread.
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2009 - 07:46pm PT
|
Mooch,
IPA is for old fat dudes who wear plaid and eat Dinty Moore stew while tuning into The Ross Perot Chronicles.
Yeah. So what? What's your point?
gm
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
|
Hey Guys,
i'm really enjoying this thread and hope that we can make the Salsafest happen. 1. i'd like to say that i'm actually in favor of the kick ass stove. If i'm up when grahm breaks it out i'm freakin jumping in!! Plus you could use a bilge pump and take the water out of the pool and put it in the bushes so that anything that came off the stove would be in the soil, probably nothing more than a bit of dust and whatever is on the outside of an iron stove (iron???). 2. The SSCA calendar of events has been announced. Notice there are two dates with SoYo as the venue. Might I reccomend the salsafest occur on the same days as the balls event when i am likely to be in the area...August 8-9 lets make it happen!!!!
Hello Friends,
Please mark your calendars for the following SSCA events:
March 21-22 Alabama Hills Eric McGee/Mickey Dunagan
May 23-25 Bart Dome Eric McGee
June 20-21 Needles Event Entire Board
July 18-19 Shut Eye Ridge/Lost Eagle Jerry Jessurn
Aug 8-9 The Balls Matt Schutz
Sept 12-13 Shaver Lake Area Eric McGee
Oct 3-4 Tollhouse Face Off Eric McGee
Nov 7-8 End of season planning meeting Location TBA Jim Schrodt
If you have suggestions for service projects or comments please let me know.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2009 - 10:25pm PT
|
Could always have 2 salsafests.
What's the SSCA?
|
|
randomtask
climber
North fork, CA
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2009 - 10:33pm PT
|
I think the SSCA is like the California version of the German SS.
Actually, its the Southern Sierra Climber's Assosciation.
-JR
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
|
"I think the SSCA is like the California version of the German SS."
UND YA, Iz ver vee put on zee jack boots!
|
|
randomtask
climber
North fork, CA
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2009 - 06:32pm PT
|
Hey Munge I don't speak no damn French!!
-JR
|
|
Camahoo
Trad climber
Shaver Lake
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2009 - 06:58pm PT
|
Salsa party? Doesn't anyone go climbing for the climbing? You all sond like a bunch of gate-inners.
|
|
Radish
Trad climber
Seki, California
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2009 - 07:11pm PT
|
Hey Matt, Good to hear your out there! Might make one of those SSCA events this year. Shuteye sounds like the one. When we did the Tollhouse cleanup that one year we made friends with the Fresno Four wheelers, who took all those bags of trash we collected. They offered to help shuttle folks up the road to shuteye there....ever hear from them??
We were watching your back buddy..........
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2009 - 07:13pm PT
|
Oh NO!!! It's a Camahoo sighting! hahahaha
What's up, bro?
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2009 - 07:55pm PT
|
wassa "gate-inner"?
|
|
LongAgo
Trad climber
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2009 - 08:41pm PT
|
Note on Sahib:
In Feb 13 post (have not been looking at Supertopo in a while), Clint tries to indicate where Sahib goes in the picture of various routes on Chiquito Dome, and seems to agree with the big blue dots in the photo, as opposed to the route going way right. I think the blue dots are about right too, but it's very hard to tell from the straight up photo.
Here's a picture which might help. It's from my website, taken from taken from the AAJ '84 by permission:
http://www.tomhiggins.net/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=6&Itemid=20&limit=1&limitstart=4
It's not a great pic, but I seem to recall the picture was taken while I was drilling at or near the belay station at the end of the first pitch. That place is atop a faint "buttress" not particularly visible in the supertopo pic. But notice I am right of what looks like a kind of long eyebrow of rock. If one looks at the blue dot photo (with lots of other routes dotted too), one sees what looks like the very same eyebrow of rock, so I'm pretty sure the route goes back above that eyebrow as per the big blue dots.
Of course, the line of old bolts will tell the tale. And of course, I'm fine with them being replaced. Happy trails finding the old line!
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
|
Tom,
There is a higher resolution version of the AAJ photo in the online AAJ. I matched up features on the rock in the old photo to a new photo, so I think the location problem is solved.
Here are the photos from my post on the thread of February 11, 3:47pm. The purple circles indicate the position of the climber in the other photo.
|
|
NoRushNoMore
climber
|
|
Ok, could not resist posting a few pictures from a few years back
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Now thats's what I want to see in this thread.
More pics
more more more
I know you got em
Grahm,Matt, anyone?
but don't rush
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
NoRush, are one of those shots 50 5.7s Dome?
Those two long 10+s are two of the best out there.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
halacious rock quality!
|
|
LongAgo
Trad climber
|
|
Clint,
I think you got it, especially comparing the "indenture" above my head in the old photo to that in the new. As I said, I think the second pitch of Sahib goes up and left from where I was pictured at the end of the first pitch, so that's somewhere in the vicinity of the climber you show. Again, of course, old bolts will tell the story. Thanks!
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
|
|
Camahoo
Trad climber
Shaver Lake
|
|
In climbing (rock only) the ethics, style and peer respect has always rotated around the age old argument of gate in or out. As for me i'm a gate out lifer.
Thank you GRAHM DOE for letting me get the 2nd on "Limp-Wristed Dike Fistin 5.10a". I had loads of fun on it and look foward to climbing it again. I hope the next time I climb it, the crack does not have to appear as if has just been aided.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
thx Camahoo. totally see it now.
I used to gate in. No exceptions.
Now, I do gate out on my harness for draws. Rack still is gate in.
poor bastard partners that don't know that I put the buckle on my gear sling on my backside... then they have all the gear going the wrong way. suckahs!
small gear front. big gear back, until a certain size.
what's the local ethic for SoSierra?
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
O a k t o w n
|
|
NoRushNoMore , sick photes .
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
G,
looks steep. nice pics
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
"You all sound like a bunch of gate-inners."
We'd rather be know as gate-inners than say......gate puller outers! HA! Poor Tim.
What's up Cam? Would you please quit work and show up from time to time. Damn you man! Would love to see you in July at the LE gig. Come check out the fun stuff. BTW, Roger and I finally tried out 'Howdy Douty Time' (sp?). You guys are royal sandbaggers!! Exfoliation hell I say! For some reason, the Peter Gabriel song, "Digging In The Dirt" comes to mind. ;)
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
For your salivating pleasure...... (sorry Nate)
FAing 'Burrito Bandito' on Cinco De Mayo day
Enjoying the casual end on 'Three Feathers'
Tiki-Ger showin' off his pride and joy 'Power To The People'
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
WHOA! How hard is that one Tiki?
Protected?
beeyootimus
it looks familiar to me. have I seen that before?
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
I think you have Rob. Ger has it posted on SP as one of his profile shots. The root Ger is on is 5.9R. First bolt is 20' up then runs out on little nubbins for 35' before reaching the next bolt. 4 bolts (with a few knobs near the top to sling) in 130'. Stuff that puts hair, instead of peach fuzz, on your bolsa!
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
One of the opening moves on Howdy Doody Time was pretty stout (perfect pro placement tho). The rest was pretty mellow though. Cool route though.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Camahoo - Great job on the 2nd of "Limp-Wristed Dike Fistin 5.10a". Thanks for helping to come up with such a great name! One of things I love about putting up new routes is sharing them with others. It was great to see you fighten for the send. Heres a pic I snapped of you on it.
Heres one of me on that high ball too...
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Great photos from everyone so far! I have been to all the areas shown. Except Mooch's shot of the Taffy Wall. Which I suspect is out in Exile. Don't worry I won't spill the beans on that spot. Nothing wrong with the guys who find a new crag keeping it to themselves for a while to pick their cherry lines.
In the spirit of having a little fun here's a few shots of walls seen only by a few Shuteye explorers. I know of heaps more but 2 out of the 3 walls pictured below still have NO routes yet. With out disclosing their exact location has anyone out there seen all 3 of these gems? Do you know which one has routes on it? If you wish to play you can be vagely general in the area of your answer. For example "High Eagle Area" Crazy Horse is the only one I can think of that may have seen all three. So hold out a little while Crazy to see if anyone else has earned their bush whacking metal of honor.
#1
#2
#3
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
"The rest was pretty mellow though."
Mellow??? By bolt #4, Roger was peeling dirty micro flakes and blowing off the route three seperate times! Rog grew up sending 5.10 Tollhouse slab route, my friend. The opening move (protected by a bolt) was no harder than 5.8, at best. The upper section (which skirted to the left of 'Mineral Magic' about 30') got tougher, exfoliating and dirtier!!
Randy, are you thinking about 'Think Nothing Of It' (.10b)? Put up by Cam, Lenni and Barry in '03? The first 25' of that route are tough while the remaining pitches are fairly moderate.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
Speaking of Tollhouse....we were out there Saturday morning early (on the first pitch at 4:30 am.......had to be back before family breakfast) and brought my new little HD camcorder. Have a peek all yall So Yo Punks. This is how we do 5.7 in style.
http://www.vimeo.com/3447948
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
too nice Grahm. looks perfect for slinging knobs to drill from. :)
|
|
NoRushNoMore
climber
|
|
Grahm, your pix cropped too small to be any useful for guessing ;)
I have not seen #1 but the other two (or at least one of them) could be parts of the dome that you find going west/downhill from the observation tower (passing by a fun short 30 feet or so overhanging on all sides tower/boulder).
It's a smaller dome may be 150 feet or so. There was just one bolt that I saw on it leading nowhere (may be a trad route)
|
|
perswig
climber
|
|
Sweet edit on the vid, micronut. Thanks for putting that together. You earned your cholesterol that day.
Dale
|
|
dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
|
|
Lets see some crack pics.Wheres the "Love Supreme"of s. Yos.?
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
Grahm wrote:"Nothing wrong with the guys who find a new crag keeping it to themselves for a while to pick their cherry lines"
And when we get the moderates out of the way, We'll get you to come over and send the hard stuff Grahm.
Soyo dreamin'!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Nice job Micronut!!! Thanks for the video
Fun route!
Grahm thanks for the pics, keep em coming
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Sweet video Micronut. Really captures the vibe of early morning sessions and how special sunrises in the Sierra can be.
NoRush - Good guess but, they're not from that area.
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
"Randy, are you thinking about 'Think Nothing Of It' (.10b)? Put up by Cam, Lenni and Barry in '03? The first 25' of that route are tough while the remaining pitches are fairly moderate. "
I might be, Dave. Things are really fuzzy for me in the mornings and I'm bad with route names. Pretty sure I've done both, although the route you describe sounds more like the route I was thinking of.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
Thanks for reminding me to wake up earlier!
Nice Video, Micro.
I like the Les Stroud camera angles;)
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
Hey I'd prolly be interested in that Salsa Fest if it's an open invite. I have a bunch of packets of Taco Bell Spicy Red Sauce floating around in the back of my truck. I could pitch in a few if you need. Born and raised here in the "No" but have never been out to Shuteye. Would be stoked to see the place with somebody who knows their way around. Keep me in the loop if you can.
Scott
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Dick,
> Lets see some crack pics.Wheres the "Love Supreme"of s. Yos.?
I haven't been there that much, but from browsing the guidebook and photos, it does seem to be mostly face climbing on domes and some steep walls. Not every area gets a Love Supreme, or lots of steep cracks like Yosemite, Tuolumne, Needles, Donner, etc.
There may be some stuff at Fuller Buttes, and a little at Shuteye.
There's a nice looking 5.11/5.12 roof crack to arete on the right end of High Eagle - The Eagle Has Landed 5.12b.
Also Matt's new route, Storming the Castle 5.11+, on Gray Eagle - see his page for photos:
http://www.southernsierra.org/grayeagle.html
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
"... but have never been out to Shuteye."
Scott, you poor deprived lad. Tollhouse is magical but Shuteye is the next dimension my friend. You are sorely missing out on pure unadulterated heaven. SoYo is truly dah shizzle. BTW, hoping to get out to Tollhouse this Friday with Mrs. Mooch and Tiki-Ger for some slab time. Wandering Taoist comes to mind! ;)
Mark Haymond did several notable roots on T-House back in the 70's. Still active too. One of the OG's of SSCA. However, he's hung up his skates these days. Still hangs off walls with dirtbags like me.
Mark (right) after finishing the FA of Tollhouse Traverse....in skates.
Mark enjoying the ping of iron on pitch #2 on 'Bear Claw Headwall (5.8, A3), Kerkhoff Dome. Love them Frost knots!
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
Not wanting to screw up this magnificent thread too much - but since salsa has already been mentioned - heard from an Oakeydokian friend that El Cid's salsa apparently poisoned about 15 people last Thursday.
Madera County Health was there on Saturday to check them out for nasties in the food.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
next to the 'Tower of Love,' Dick.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Can't wait till spring....
kev
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
You guys might want to bring wetsuits Mooch. I think we are in for more drizzle all week. I'm cool with that 'cause the Sierra Summit Telefest is Satuday and we could use a little fresh. Lets totally get together sometime. Keep me in the loop and we'll make it happen. I'm totally for getting into Shuteye as soon as the snow melts. I have no idea why I haven't been up there yet.
And by the way. Mark isn't t he only one who rolls in style.
Yours truly on a random day at Sierra Summit last year. And yes...that's a cape.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
too nice Grahm. looks perfect for slinging knobs to drill from. :)
usually they're big enough that you can keep running up the route, no drill required and leave the sling in place.
|
|
Camahoo
Trad climber
Shaver Lake
|
|
Me, a sand-bagger! Look I'am a gate-out lifer. Yah I'm totaly out with it.
Howdy Doody Time should be a "must climb" 3 star. The way I see it, there is at least 35 to 50 feet of sustained 5.9 on the second pitch. I think it should be at least 5.10a. however I did not have anything to do with the 2nd pitch, only the second assent.
The first pitch on the other hand. My wife I were graciously invited to try a line we spoted to the belay bolts. So we did, and OMG it was a bold first. The only piece of gear was just off the start ledge and put in just so I would not crater the trail 20+ feet below the start of the route. Bolts were added later. I have returnd to climb this route every year (if not on the IL).
Sand bagging is more a gate-inners trait ie, "Loaded Gun". O-ya I went there!
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
Sorry Cam....more like 1/2 a star. That's one of Tollhouse's dirtier routes. Flakes peeling off and decomposing rock....with a nice touch of dirt! Dood...are we even talking about the same root???? Now, 'Think Nothing Of it'....that wasn't too bad....second pitch needed a bit of traffic but all in all....good stuff.
Give Roger Hayashi a call.....he lead HDT. Strong leader I might add.
|
|
Radish
Trad climber
Seki, California
|
|
Love those Tollhouse face routes.........
Frantic Mantic.....I believe??
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
Yep, Frantic Manic....all of .10a! I beleive 'Free James Brown' is immediately right to it.
|
|
Camahoo
Trad climber
Shaver Lake
|
|
Yeah it can be dirty after it rains. It's a water steak but when you add the lose flakes, it's like every time you climb it, it feels like a first assent. There is no guessing how the route felt to the first assent team. You just can't find that kind of quality on trade routes.
|
|
tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
|
|
Grahm... I'll take Wall #1 please.
Damn! That's worth sending the wife and kids to Disneyland for a week.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Wall #1 looks an awful lot like Disneyland to me! If it's virgin, it sure don't need any bolts. A pure plate slingin' frenzy, and/or nuts in those dandy fissures. I'm a guessing a long approach in Shuteye's southern hemisphere, but if I'm actually right, best not to say so on this forum. :)
Does 2.5 hours of continuous bushwhacking get me a medal of honor?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Mar 10, 2009 - 12:00pm PT
|
#1 is where the Eagles Beak doesn't point the way.
#2 is a companion to a Queen.
#3 is a dreamy location and has some established routes on it.
;-)
Heres some pics of Randomtask I dug up enjoying some Shuteye bouldering...
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Mar 11, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
|
Savage!
Howz life in NoFo? HA! Got shots of Slayer? Not that I'll ever send anything in the arena of SoYo bouldering hardmen ;)
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2009 - 11:04pm PT
|
Hmmmm, have we decided on dates yet? Salsafest!!!!
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2009 - 11:59pm PT
|
Too rad you OakeyDoke Sledneck you!
I was wondering how much snow was still on the access roads - talked to a two-wheeler on Monday who said he ran into 18 inches of snow at the red-zone on Beasore Road.
Also told me that some local sledders were calling 6 feet at Cold Springs Summit.
Too deep to muddle through with my Jeep for now.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2009 - 12:04am PT
|
Look at the size of those chickenheads!!!
Me gotta go.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2009 - 12:29am PT
|
HaHa! Too cool Grahm, Leo talked of that kind of approach before.
Ahh Yes the slingable horns. Gotta love the cowboy tactics.
HeeHaw!!
And Leo is Da-Man!
Great pictures BTW.
|
|
tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2009 - 01:02am PT
|
man... now I gotta add snow mobile to my list.
And I thought cams were expensive.
Bet it was uncrowded.
Post a couple more gems from this day for those of us who have old school computers with no flash...
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2009 - 01:54am PT
|
but where do you get the snow mobiles. this theory works but just gotta get them tools.
hrm
rad knob ya got there (i bet all the tourists say that)
|
|
tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2009 - 02:43pm PT
|
More pics!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2009 - 01:47am PT
|
We had green underwear on!
This might work better for ya Tom, I don't think this has flash:
http://s625.photobucket.com/albums/tt336/sierraclimber1/Fresno%20Dome%20Winter%20Ascent/
I am now shopping for a used snow mobile! So much good rock thats dry and warm if you can just get to it. The base was about 4 to 6 feet.
Hey Ricky what kinda jeep you got? Any mods?
Heres a pic of the Shuteye Climbers Jeepin Club with Mike, Leo's and my rig.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2009 - 01:53am PT
|
Combining snowmobiling and climbing is just awesome!
Add beers and I think you have a Trifecta.
|
|
tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2009 - 12:12pm PT
|
yeah, that worked! Man, what a killer adventure! Was that the South Pillar route?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
|
Yup, South Pillar.
As I mentioned earlier in this thread I am working on a Shuteye Guide book. My intent is to have all the major areas, routes and boulder problems. I also plan on including Lewis Creek, Fresno/ Wamello, Willow Creek, and the San Joaquin as bonus sections because they are not in Shuteye proper. I know Tom and someone in the Bay Area are doing select guides to Shuteye soon but I want to do a more comprehensive guide.
I have been climbing almost exclusively at Shuteye for about 5 years and have tons of info but I am still missing bits and pieces.
This is a huge project and I would be crazy to think I can do it alone and have correct names, history and grades. A lot of climbers have contributed over many years to the area. So I am going to need route names, fa party and dates for some routes. The ones I don't get I will leave blank and fill them in after the first release. I won’t be making up names if I don’t know them.
Once I complete a section over the next year with all the info I have I will post it here for a review and hopefully get feed back from those who have climbed the area. Or hopefully get pointed in the right direction to fill in some of the blanks.
To start with here is a break down of the areas. If you know a different name or feel a section name should be different let me know. I tried to give (section names) a different name than the walls to avoid confusion. There are 53 areas so far. I bet there will be around 1,000 routes and boulder problems listed.
If you want to send me a private email its didgeridoings@aol.com
Shuteye Sections - From North to South
(North)
Lewis Creek Bouldering
Fresno / Wamello Dome
Hawk Dome
Willow Wall
(Chilkoot Lake)
Top rope Sector
Half Day Dome
(Hidden Zone)
River Wall "Swimming Hole"
Lost Eagle
Helmet "Unapologetic Statement Dome"
Exile
(Castle Crag)
Watch Tower
Battlement Boulders
(Central North)
Dreamscape
Kings Tower
Queens Throne
Queens Throne Boulders
(Central South)
Shangri La
Short and Steep
Campsite Boulders
Talon
High Eagle
High Eagle Boulders
Aerie
Hobbit
Fifty Five Sevens
(Chiquito)
(Shorty Domes) ( Past High Eagle on the lookout road)
Cat Nap
Next dome up the road, Evolution?
Next one after that, Family Wall?
(Shuteye Peak)
"Look Out"
"Peak Boulders"
(Shuteye Creek)
Electric Eagle Upper
Electric Eagle Lower
"Bastion"
Gray Eagle
Red Eagle
Minerva
(Shuteye Pass North)
"Little Sleep"
Big Sleep Boulders "Sleepy Boulders"
Big Sleep
Voodoo
Crocodile
Crocodile Egg Boulders "Croc Blocks"
Golden Nugget
"Eggs"
(Shuteye Pass South)
Fallen Eagle
Eagles Nest Boulders
"Eagles Nest"
(Eagle Beaks)
"Rock Creek Wall"
Incinerator
North Eagle Beak
Chickadee "Baby Eagle"
South Eagle Beak
(Power Zone)
Power Towers
Hide Out
(San Joaquin River)
Redinger Dam
Power House 4 Boulders
River Gorge Boulders
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2009 - 08:35am PT
|
River Wall? Are you referring to the wall downstream from the parking area for Lost Eagle, G? Hmmm....I think out of respect to the original FA's, they actually refered to thast wall as 'Skinny Dip' Wall. Check with Tiki-ger and Nate D.
As a side note, hoped to make the Helmet named as 'Dark Helmet' a) since there already is one out on the western side b) it was referred to as such because it looks like the helmet similiar to the one in Space Balls....obtuse and dark. HA ;)
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2009 - 09:12am PT
|
Mooch and Grahm, Skinny Dip Wall was coined by Jerry Anderson and his wife. My son actually got the FA of the center route before the bolts. 'Dog on a Log' 5.9. Couple of nice boulder problems up canyon too. I'll get the names and numbers for the other routes.
Hidden Zone, I likey
gj
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2009 - 11:37am PT
|
Ok, Thanks guys! I updated the list for Skinny Dip. I believe Matt did the first work on the Helmet so we should check with him if Dark Helmet is cool.
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2009 - 02:32pm PT
|
G -
Talked with Matt on Saturday and mentioned Dark Helmet. He didn't seem to have a problem with it....unless he still wants to refer to it as "Unapologetic Dome". :/
Also, I saw in another thread that Tom was curious about folks leading Pennies on The Patio (Moro rock). Is he including Sequoia NP stuff in his No. Cal climbing guide? Just curious.
Wut up Savage!?
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2009 - 03:17pm PT
|
Nice work on Wamello by sled! Great adventure value I'm sure. Prolly quicker than driving. Thanks for the photos. Hope to hook up with all you guys sometime. See you 'round.
-Scott
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2009 - 06:11pm PT
|
Grahm,
Don't know if you are excluding some stuff intentionally, but here are several crags not listed above that have previously reported routes (Spencer or Hartmann):
The Eggs
The Bastion
Little Sleep
The Lookout (must be more routes now than the one Hartmann did in the 90s)
Rock Creek Wall
I'll email you further input.
I see Mr. Ross has been busy!
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2009 - 08:17pm PT
|
What up Mooch?
Still Desert stranded?
So...Needles this Summer???
-JR
Yep, still in the 'Armpit Of The Mojave'. Welllllll......got my eyes set more on The Domelands (Church, Bart, The Pulpit). K. Solem recommended a bunch of routes to me a few years back and I intend on sampling these beauties. Of course the rest of the year will be hangin' out with you boys (damn East sider!) and "gettin' it dun". Also got some high country trips planned too.
Needles?? Maybe in the fall. But not before playin hooky with Munge and Brutus @ Hoffman.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2009 - 12:28pm PT
|
Thanks again! I updated the list. Wow, if you climbed just one day at each area it would take two months straight to hit them all! Not to mention all the unclimbed walls yet to be done.
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2009 - 11:43am PT
|
Anyone checked out that formation near the Jones Store (near the meadow)??
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
|
All:
There is a good chance I'll be in SoYo Easter Weekend April 10-14 or so. Love to get on some stone then!!
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2009 - 03:12pm PT
|
Noted Matt. Wish I could.....takin' the daughter to D-Land that weekend. Ask Leo....he's the one with the snow mobile. ;)
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2009 - 12:41pm PT
|
Ok, here's the first section up for review. "The Talon"
http://www.gigmax.com/user.php?f=32747&u=sierraclimber1
Select the "Talon" file and click on the little download button on the right side. Its a pdf file so you will need a pdf application like Adobe Reader to view. Adobe has free downloads of the apps if you need one.
If you have any input let me know. Names, grades, star rating, history? Nate mentioned Vernon might have established top ropes here back in the day?
If you have a good action photo you would like in the guide for this section let me know as well. Ideally at least 3 megs in size. Older "vintage" photos a plus! I can scan them and mail back. Can't pay for pics but will give photo credits. I don't plan on using many pics of me but these are the only action shots I have so far.
Colored lines on the topo represent difficulty. Green - 5.9, Blue - 5.10, Yellow - 5.11, Purple - 5.12, Red - 5.13, Black - Project.
Star rating is out of three stars. I am thinking the rating system should be by wall. So three stars would be the best one on that wall but not in all of Shuteye.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2009 - 07:42pm PT
|
Bump it It's climbing!!!
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2009 - 11:37pm PT
|
FYI - a buddy of mine managed to punch through the snow drifts at Dutch Oven Creek and made it as far as Jackass Rocks over the weekend going up Minarets Road from North Fork.
He's guessing that another week or so and all the snow below 7000 feet should be gone - at least on that route. Beasore is another story - some sledders he ran into say that 4 feet or so still sits on Cold Springs Summit.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2009 - 04:20am PT
|
Grahm,
Nice work on the Talon!
> I don't plan on using many pics of me but these are the only action shots I have so far.
It's probably a wise move, but I don't see anything wrong with 1 or 2 action shots of yourself - you have some good ones. But 50% shots of you would look suspicious! :-) Good to start out now seeking a variety of shots - there's a long season ahead.
> Colored lines on the topo represent difficulty. Green - 5.9, Blue - 5.10, Yellow - 5.11, Purple - 5.12, Red - 5.13, Black - Project.
This sounds interesting, but it might not work so well if lines of the same color cross each other. Would you use a different pattern of lines, like dots or dashes to solve that?
> Star rating is out of three stars. I am thinking the rating system should be by wall. So three stars would be the best one on that wall but not in all of Shuteye.
What happens if there are only 1-2 routes at a crag? Then the stars are not very informative.
Also, if the stars are relative for each crag, then they don't help for choosing between crags. But maybe that is a good thing?
I was joking with my climbing partner last weekend about the 3-star vs. 5-star system. He likes the 5-star system, because it allows some lesser routes to get a single star instead of none. I feel that the 5-star system is inflated. Even a single star system is pretty good - it lets you know which routes to make sure you look at/consider doing, if you have limited time.
I like the 3-star system, but I'm concerned that 5-star guides might sell more, "because they have better climbs"?? :-) So I proposed a 6-star system - 0, 2, 4, or 6 stars. :-)
In the Index guidebook, we had a ratings survey, where we had a preliminary list of routes by grade with stars attached - I mailed several, and we also distributed some at the parking lot. People checked off or circled the routes they had done, and either agreed with the rating or supplied their own. I also had them fill in their height, so I could make a special list of routes where the ratings ranged the most for short vs. tall people. It was fun to tally up the results and use them in the guide.
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2009 - 09:55am PT
|
"Would you use a different pattern of lines, like dots or dashes to solve that?"
I agree that dashed lines should be used for the intended line and direction of the route. And "x"s be used for fixed pro (prehaps "P" for fixed pins). Keep it traditional in nature G.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2009 - 01:00pm PT
|
more comments from the peanut gallery: :)
I think color coding the lines is clever. I don't own many guidebooks, unlike Clint, but I've seen it used in the french Fontainebleau bouldering guide. Even though the same colors may cross, as long as another number marker is used at the split or intersection to indicate which route is which, it's no different than what is done on most 1 color topos.
To mooch's comment, correct me if I'm wrong Grahm, but it sounded like you said before that fixed protection would not be shown in your topos. I realize it's a ton of work, esp. to be accurate, but without it, it takes a lot more reading/time to figure out which routes are sport vs. trad vs. mixed, vs. runout, etc. This seems somewhat important in a region like Shuteye, where there is quite a mix of these different types of climbs. And what about natural vs. bolted anchor differentiation? But on the other hand, I must admit that I do sort of like that it requires a little more work to "read" the routes. Might increase the adventure factor a tad, as people still have to stand at the base of a climb and suss it out.
Photo topos, as helpful as they can be for smaller crags, have drawbacks for larger faces/cliffs, as it can often be hard to get good views of an entire face and it's climbs. Not as easy to xerox either, for stuffing in one's pocket, as some tend to do, esp. for multi-pitch climbs. Don't know if you intend to supplement photos with drawings for some crags.
To the comment on dashed lines, they can be more problematic to read for photo overlays (depending on the photo and the colors used), but it does help discern cracks and features on a route that can get covered up by solid lines.
I like the idea of the star system for individual crags, but to Clint's point, it might also be helpful to have some way of indicating "overall" Shuteye classics. Sometimes this is just a "best of" list in the back of a book, but seeing as you are going 4 color, you could even have some route names in red, or the stars in red, indicating overall classics. Many options here.
I'm sure you've considered all of this already. Real cool, IMO, that you are so open in sharing this work in progress!
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2009 - 03:57pm PT
|
In response to the star system, the idea of doing stars relative to other routes on the same crag seems foreign to me. Aren't pretty much all guidebooks that use the system using either:
1. stars evaluated based on the general area or
2. stars are evaluated based on the general classicness (i know that's not a word) of the route?
it might be tough using #2 since the scale will be tipped toward everything being rated at 3 stars. Paraphrasing a friend on a route we did (that wasn't way more spectacular than anything else in the area) a few years ago "this is a good as any of the three star routes in Tuolumne"
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2009 - 05:01pm PT
|
"...The stars weren't so big; they were really quite small.
You would think such a thing wouldn't matter at all." :)
I like the consensus survey idea you used for Index, Clint. Difficult to do at Shuteye, however, with many routes seeing very very little travel.
Matt-
Plenty of crappy 0 stars still to do out there. It's just that all the gems naturally get plucked first! ;)
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2009 - 05:18pm PT
|
"I like the consensus survey idea you used for Index, Clint. Difficult to do at Shuteye, however, with many routes seeing very very little travel." Agreed
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
Oh, Nate.....you put a stitch in my side with the Dr. Seuss "Star Belly Sneets" (sp?) bit.
You know who could really get some fine "ax-shon" photos is nefarius! Need to get him up there this season. Made a few of us look like action heros :P
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Some good food for thought you guys! Once more crags get indexed we should definitely come up with a must do tick list for all the grades.
I don't think I can handle showing every bolt placement at Shuteye and ever actually finish the Guide. The route description will have bolt counts, anchor description and gear requirements. Nate has a good point about noting whether its sport or spicy. The bolt counts should give that away but maybe a cool little icon or the movie system ie. G, PG13, R would be better.
On another note I found a great deal on a 2003 900cc snowmobile and added it to my rack. Leo and I took them out for a test run ride last night. You can literally go anywhere on these things, just point toward a crag and pull the throttle! It only goes 115 mph...
There is still 6 feet of snow at the top of Beasore and Central Camp road is totally buried. Its still going to be a while before 4x4's can make it out there.
Also, this last weekend there was no snow to Mile High overlook on Minerets.
We are going to try to romp the snowmobiles up to Crocodile on Saturday and get some climbing in.
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
"You know who could really get some fine "ax-shon" photos is nefarius! Need to get him up there this season."
hahaha Thanks, Dave! I'm definitely down to get up there with you guys!!! Would love to get some shots. That place is so sick for shooting! Have some new ideas this year too, so... Not to mention my new camera will hopefully be available by then!
Just had a look at my calendar - I'll be in either Utah or Mexico May 21-31.
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
Hey Randy,
As you can see from Grahm's info above, there is still a bunch of snow burying Beasore (and I'm sure the same is true about Grizzly Rd). I'm thinkin' about trying for mid-May (May 15th-17th....got Friday off that week). If the snow is minimal, anyone wanna shoot for that weekend? Think you can make it that weekend Randy? G? Nate?
|
|
tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
|
|
I'll play devil's advocate just for fun -
If I read a route listing, and it says 4 bolts + pro to 3" I know it isn't going to be a true sport route. If it says 4 bolts, it may mean it's a sport route, OR a runout route. So if you don't put in bolts on the topo, then just use a R or X next to the rating. If it only says pro to 3" I'll expect a trad line. And if it has a R next to it I know also what to expect.
As far as colors and icons... sometimes too much is just too much. Some topos are REALLY over done. Giving me the cam sizes for a belay at each point implies that I won't be able to figure it out. Some say it is to remind you to save pro for the belay, but who told the first ascent party? And didn't they live to tell the story? Perhaps a lot of adventure is lost these days due to over done topos and route descriptions. If I'm ever on a route and I'm stopping to read my topo each time I place a piece... I think i've lost something important.
Stars... man, people are obsessed, but nothing in a book is more subjective. Even ratings are less subjective. I remember being a new climber and gunning for the ultra-classic water cracks on Lembert.. the guide said * out of *. It's still one of the lamest routes I've ever done to this day. For one it isn't a crack. And you pretty much do the same move 50 times in a row. Not sure what is so classic about that.
My POINT is just that different climbs appeal to different people, like salsa.
To engage the reader, write a description and maybe say "classic for the area" or "good climb". That will get people reading and not just scanning for stars. Descriptions can do more than stars - "First pitch is classic, but skip the loose 2nd pitch." Or, "after you endure the grainy first pitch you'll be rewarded with a classic splitter crack."
And if you screw up on a bolt placement, or number (heaven knows they tend to change) of bolts, someone is likely to be pretty torqued. You're messing with safety now, not quality, which is different.
Anyway, that's enough, I say less is sometimes more. But that's just me. Some climbers want a map from the car to the summit and back.
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
To engage the reader, write a description and maybe say "classic for the area" or "good climb". That will get people reading and not just scanning for stars. Descriptions can do more than stars - "First pitch is classic, but skip the loose 2nd pitch." Or, "after you endure the grainy first pitch you'll be rewarded with a classic splitter crack."
The same stuff you're mentioning Tom is the same stuff that caught my eye from the narratives for some of the routes described in the SEKI, Needles and Domeland guidebooks! (well, not all of it was well put together). Then again, the Shuteye region in general won't see the circus lines like Owens River Gorge or other easier access areas. Stars.....no star....that is the question. My take: leave them stars alone*
* 5 stars for 'Three Feathers', Lost Eagle heehee.
|
|
tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
|
|
I'd like to hope that Shuteye won't see the circus... but man, I live like 5 hours away and I've driven up there just for a day of climbing it's so good. I pray the road stays long and crappy, and that will detour most. But then again, I go, so it's lame to want everyone else to say away. Human nature. I have to share... but it's hard. But someone shared with me...
I gotta give Vernon hats off though for the guides he (they) did. While not perfect, and having some of the worst covers ever (I know it wasn't Greg's fault), they covered areas that were mostly off the radar. Any pioneering effort is a bigger effort than anyone else just building off of what was already done. Grahm is doing that too, so hats off to Grahm as well. These types of guides break ground, and fertilize the soil so to speak for the rest of us. We see pics, or potential, and fill the fields.
All in all, more climbing is good. Shuteye can't help it if it just happens to be better than most other places. It's the hot younger sister to Yosemite for sure, that many people have over looked, or just haven't noticed yet. Well, she's turning 18 boys! Come have a look! But be gentlemen! Treat the place with respect.
Oh yeah, and no stars for me. Make me work for it, even though it goes against my lazy nature. Make me read a sentence or two. Or even worse (!), go climb it myself and form my own opinion!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Good input all around, Tom. I confess I too have done the 10 hrs. total driving time for one day of climbing at Shuteye thing. Many times. Really pretty messed up, actually.
Hey Grahm,
You could always go with this no nonsense fixed protection ONLY topo format™®©. That'll keep 'em guessing - and the adventure alive! Are they routes or constellations? Less is indeed more.
I'll look into May, mooch man. But don't you know we punters and our tinkerings are not worthy of the paparazzi?
|
|
tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
|
|
lol
yes, perfect. That's a topo for Shangri La!
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
lol
yes, perfect. That's a topo for Shangri La!
"F" on your exam Tom. I know exactly where this "constellation" is at! ;)
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
topos (not photo overlays) are pretty tough for this area. If you were to draw a topo for some of the routes I have put in, it would be very hard to convince the uninitiated guidebook reader that it's not an R/X route because there is so much face climbing, protected by cracks and chickenheads that the person on route might not see depending on the sequence they take. There are alot of places where the knobs are so plentiful that you can't drill a bolt even if you wanted to, unless you were to put the bolt on a knob. Contrast this with some of the more blank formations that have just plain sick runout slab routes and it makes a pretty difficult situation for a guidebook author to help make the area accessible to folks without alot of hard to acquire detail.
It really is an area that would be tough to start out climbing, but if you were to get through that learning curve, provide some rad training for high sierra routes and long valley routes.
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
All the more reason to attach a narrative to the route listed. That way the route can be described: "...overcome a small roof (5.10a) by traversing left on chickenheads then continue up a full pitch while slinging a constellation of knobs." Problem solved.
There's that word "constellation" again. ;)
Nate, I've never known you to be camera shy....straw hat and all. You can pose with Cyndi.....I won't mind. :D
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
That weekend should work for me, Mooch. Keep me posted. Maybe I can get out a couple of days between now and then so that I might at least be able to climb some lowly 5.9's again! hahaha Not been a lot of climbing in the last year.
On the positive side, I'll certainly be ready to shoot. :)
edit: I saw Graham had a snow mobile a few posts back... We should head up *while* there is snow still up there. That'd make for great shots! :)
|
|
tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
|
|
Hmmm... (black topo guess) ok, it's a place where there are a mix of trad climbs and bolted face routes, but not necessarily "sport" routes. Cliff is realatively short, maybe one pitch or two at most. Since it's mixed trad, it's in the valley or nearby?
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
What am I going to do with my old hand-drawn topos given to me 15 years ago by some homeless dude camping out at Fresno Dome Campground? The Hinterlands rock. I'll miss taking big bros on fingercracks and quickdraws on offwidths but I'm stoked for all the work you are putting into this thing.
Great job. Can't wait to see the final product and git out there.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
That's a good one Tom - "Since it's mixed trad, it's in the valley or nearby?" :)
And this trad line must be in the valley as well!
And this one:
|
|
tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
|
|
No, because it's a thread on So. Yosemite and we're talking about Shuteye.
So is it just some random topo?
And I want royalties if you're gonna be throwin' my image around.
I work hard to look that good...
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Not random, my friend. Just a portion of one of roughly 55+ known crags/domes/formations at Shuteye. Don't know 'bout the climber, but that route on the Hobbit does look quite good. :)
And micro-
Don't worry, there are, and will still be, plenty of obscurities where you can take all the wrong gear in the Hinterlands. But if you want to put those big bros to work, hook up with us this summer - as we know of a few "fingercracks" where they'd come in real handy!
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
NICE!!!
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
*gasp*......can't.....catch my breath....HAHAHA! *gasp*!!
Tom....if you keep making guesses like that, you'll surely be laughed off this thread! Keep 'em comin'!
Hey Ger....you guys get out to Tollhouse? Sent you, Rog, Leo and Nate an email regarding our outting yesterday at Suicide. Surprised I'm not typing this from a hospital bed....darn near got blown into the next county while attempting 'Mickey Mantle'.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
Nice grahm,
you've managed to squeeze yet another month or two out of the already stellar climbing season in SoYo
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
Jeremy - The Forest Service has not officially declared Minarets Road open to any extent, but yes, the road is clear to a about a mile past Jackass Rocks.
Beasore side is still too deep for vehicles - mostly at the Cold Springs crest.
The Weather Service calls for a couple of light storms between now and next Saturday with snow levels down to 5000 feet - but only a couple of inches of snow expected at the most.
Rick from Arnold Meadows
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
I completely agree JR. Not sharing information could only hurt the shuteye community by having alot of what you just described. One way to minimize the issue: use the 3/8" red heads that are all over shuteye. Drill the hole deeper than you need to place the bolt, put the hanger on and tighten it. If you've added a bolt and need to chop it, or more pertinently if you need to rebolt the placement in X years you can back the nut off and center punch the stud back into the rock and epoxy patch the hole. There is a particular type of epoxy that's kosher that I've used on many ASCA rebolting missions. You mix it up, throw it in the hole, and then schmeeer a bit of sand/dirt from the local area that you've carried up in a film canister and you're golden.
There is the issue when you drill the hole to deep that water can seep in over time and in winter freeze. Then you've got a little freeze thaw cycle going on in your bolt hole. I've never heard any science on this if its really an issue, if it hurts the placement, causes it to rust out too quick. Can anyone comment?
|
|
tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
|
|
Grahms got all my FA info for the area, and some of my pics. And some of his pics are in my new guidebook for Nor Cal. Share and share alike.
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
While we're talking about bolts (perhaps include lopers, chainsaws, quad runners and straw hats), anyone used Hilti's Kwik Bolt 3 Expansion bolt?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
I have used them and they are great but... way too pricey. Here's where I get my bolts and they usually ship out quick.
http://www.toolup.com/itw-ramset-red-head/ww-3836.html
Stainless Steel 3/8 X 3-3/4" for $.99 ea!
Go with 3" and their only $.84
I have checked their specs and while not as strong as Power Bolts (Rawl 5 piece) they are still super strong. They are rated to 4,500 pounds shear strength in 6,000 psi concrete. Granite of course is harder. Plus they have a safety margin built in. I figure if it can hold my jeep up in the air its safe to whipper on.
Heres the spec sheet.
http://www.itwredhead.com/trubolt_perf_1.asp
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Or $.82 each for 3/8" x 2.25" SS, for us hand drillers. :-)
http://www.toolup.com/itw-ramset-red-head/ww-3822.html
Too bad I just bought a box someplace else for about $1 each, although that included shipping.
I bought Fixe (4mm thick) hangers in quantity when they were on sale a couple of years ago for about $2 each. I've heard the SS hangers at Pagan Gear were pretty low prices for large quantities. It looks like they are now called Climb Axe, and cost $1.75 each?
http://www.climbaxe.com/climbaxebolthanger.aspx
The Spadout page looks for low prices, and most SS hangers (Fixe, Metolius, Petzl Coeur) are listed at $2.95 each
http://www.spadout.com/c/bolts-and-hangers/
(it does say $1.75 for Fixe on the page, but that links to a plated steel hanger)
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
I'm tired of the Powers 5-piece bolt. Especially when bolting on lead. Can't seem to find a system that keeps them from loosening up when pre-installed with hanger. Last bolt job using them was a near abortion (insert image of humbled, embarassed louse!). The upper sleeve on one of them started to "flower out" as I was hammering in the last bit of length. Granted, they are ideal if you're considering removal later on but I'm over 'em. Thinking Red Head, Fixe or Hilti SS bolts are the way to go.....simplicity.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
I don't use rawls for anything except for anchors on a ledge. Any kind of bolting on lead scenario just does not jive with rawls. They come apart, and you need two hands to place them after the hole is drilled. Unless you're using hooks, this is usually not possible on vertical terrain.
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Apr 16, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
|
Nate -
Have you been in contact with J. Anderson lately?
|
|
tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2009 - 04:00pm PT
|
OK, some health advice... Make sure you have insurance if you ride with Grahm on his snowmobile. Psycho. That said... Shuteye in the snow is bitchin' and well worth the effort. It was cool to see High Eagle buried in a snowfield. Still lots of climbing to do. Grahm - post up a pic with some of the white stuff in it.
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2009 - 11:23am PT
|
Tom and Grahm -
Howz Beasore lookin' with snow coverage? Diminishing? Any word from the Frenzy Circus when they will get in there and clear to the Jones Store?
|
|
tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
|
|
... photos by Slater.
I was too baked to walk up to the Talon and take a closer shot.
But it turned out pretty cool anyway I think.
Nice day and a FA on Arkenstone .11b... sweet.
I got my pics up on-
http://slatervision.com/id3.html
Not sure how to post them otherwise I would have.
Feel free anyone who knows.
|
|
rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
Salsafest bump?
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
May 12, 2009 - 03:07pm PT
|
Hey Tom,
FYI, looking through your photos from your last post. Some amazing shots in there. I saw one that said FA of 'thief in the night'. I'm pretty sure there is a route by this name already on Queens Throne. I'd have to look back at the old Greg Vernon typewriter era guide i have.
In other shuteye news, I will likely be in town for Memorial Day weekend going out with a few amigos. Whomever wants to join is welcome provided you pass the shuteye test...
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
May 12, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
|
There is "Thieves in the Night" at Queen's Throne:
Queen's Throne
303. Easy Does It 5.9, 3p
304. Paper Tiger 5.6
305. Thieves in the Night 5.7
306. In the Heat of the Night 5.8
307. Tap-dance Buttress 5.10
308. Snake Eyes 5.12c
309. Catching Some Shuteye 5.11b
310. A Climber's Requiem 5.10c, 3p
311. Midnight Caller 5.11d or 5.10 A1
312. Risin' of the Moon 5.10
313. Black Madonna 5.12a or 5.10a A1
314. Whiplash 5.12a or 5.10b A2
315. Wait Until Dark 5.10c, might be L of Black Madonna - see topo
316. Welcome to Shuteye Ridge 5.11
317. Crown Jewel 5.12b
318. Jeepers Creepers 5.11
319. Scepter 5.6, RFC, 5p
320. Pit and the Pendulum 5.9 A2, 6p, crosses Scepter to L
321. Coronet 5.8, 6p
322. Nipple by Pass 5.8, 3p
|
|
tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
May 12, 2009 - 06:05pm PT
|
Phew... scandal over.
Since it's Hobbit Dome (I'm an English teacher and teach the book and am a fan), "Thief in the Night" is one of the chapter titles where he gives the Arkenstone (the latest new route I did with Grahm - Arkenstone .11b) to the "enemies" to bargain for peace.
Route and name still intact... Thief in the Night 5.8 pro to 3"
Go do it... killer dihedral and natural pro with only two bolts added on face section.
Topo of dome due out in Nor Cal guidebook (due out this summer - see upcoming R&I article issue 179).
ps- you won't be alone Memorial Day... :)
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
May 12, 2009 - 06:34pm PT
|
Pretty sure 'Thief in The Night' (.10d) is also a route in The Flatirons.
BTW, anyone know how many 'Smiths' are on the planet?? 1111
|
|
tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
May 12, 2009 - 08:28pm PT
|
ha ha, get over it... it's called Thief in the Night.
Probably not as popular as "Regular Route", or "Tree Route", or the ever popular "Unknown" so it's all good.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
May 13, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
|
NOTE: The old trad route "Looking Glass" on Fresno Dome has been bolted by someone (at least 2 bolts next to the initial dandy crack). In the off chance that someone 'round these parts actually did such a thing, the bolts will be removed and holes patched within the week. Bolts appearing on bold and unreported lines has happened on occasion in the region, but on a well known and well protected line is obviously an entirely different matter.
Just an FYI.
Tom - did you hear that Peter Jackson will finally be doing a film of The Hobbit?
|
|
tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
May 14, 2009 - 12:10am PT
|
I didn't hear that. The old movie sucked, but my students still beg me to show it.
It's so bad it's fun to watch. And just for the record, I'm a fan, but I don't dress up as a hobbit for Halloween, have Arwyn poster over my bed, or think I'm part elf. Royal was a fan, so that makes it OK. Plus, since he called that area the Hinterlands, it seemed fitting, the dome's name is my nod to him. Royal is my hero.
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
May 18, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
|
ha ha, get over it... it's called Thief in the Night.
Nah....I'm the type that digs further. Not over it yet. A teacher, eh? I see "research" isn't part of your rhetoric.
Thief In The Night.....Ha ha.....original.
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
May 18, 2009 - 12:38pm PT
|
Dude... everyone should have an Arwyn poster over their bed! Sheesh!
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
May 18, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
|
No, 'good' is when you fail to do your homework and label routes in a guidebook as 'Unknown' when they actually have names (insert Pink Floyd's "Money"). Hmmm.....the internet would be a good place to start.
Pass me the lighter fluid JR. ;)
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
May 22, 2009 - 04:22pm PT
|
Hey JR or Grahm -
What's the word on Beasore? Still snow up near Cold Springs summit? Tiki told me that Grizzly is open. Gonna be up in Shuteye 2moro. Crazy Horse said he's showing up at LE on Saturday (solo) and looking to link up with one of us to partner with.
Sup?
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
Thanks for the update Grahm. I'll be sure to bring the Busey's to scare away them demon thunderheads!
Will be up there on Saturday morning thru Sunday.....dodging hail and wearing my down jacket!
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
My brother went hiking from the Norris trailhead last weekend. The norris trailhead is a bit towards Clover Meadow from the bowler campground. He accessed it from Beasore. He's got a pretty big truck and got stuck hard back there and had to shovel out. as far as I know it's open now, but might still be 4wd only. Either way Grizzley should be open though you might have to access it from minerets road if you want to do it in 2wd.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Um, the roads are clear unless it snowed Monday.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Beasore has been open for a week, due to our resident Tiki-Jer spending a couple hours on it and mustering many anxious folks mostly from the Meadows! Way to go!!
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
Was up last weekend and Beasore was open through the meadow. Grizzly was clear all the way down to Minarets Road.
Didn't go look for myself - but was told by folks in the area that truck eating snow drifts still block easy access into Clover Meadow from both directions.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
"Beasore has been open for a week, due to our resident Tiki-Jer spending a couple hours on it and mustering many anxious folks mostly from the Meadows! Way to go!!"
sweet. Thanks Gerry. You were probably the guy my bro borrowed the shovel from!!
|
|
Slater
climber
|
|
Two new routes went in on Hobbit Dome.
Mixed gear and bolts, 140' each.
Excellent if I do say so.
photos on slatervision.com on "sierra climbing" page.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Tom,
The rock and routes looked good indeed. Roger shared a few pics.
|
|
Slater
climber
|
|
Not hard, but engaging. Roger was a positive influence, loved climbing with him, he's pretty chill and he has kids, so I related. Can't wait to try out your developing area in the future. With my current projects now done, I'm gonna play elsewhere for now... Needles and later Kings. But I'll be back up in the fall. Maybe then?
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
Hey Matt...I climbed with your brother at Chiquito....remember??
But some guy did borrow the shovel at cold springs.
Some old guy had a breaker bar that came in real handy for the icy sections.
Learned some history from the old cabin owners.
Next day saw the old "hawaiian shirt dude" (kinda Ernest Hemingway)
at the Mtn. House with Roger.
|
|
Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
|
|
Grahm,
Those are cool pics of "Eagle's Gift"! I had to stare at them for a few minutes before I realized that's a route Dan McDevitt and I put up called Va-Va-Voom. It's right at the corner of High Eagle where the south face turns to the east face. The climber is falling at the crux where you have to move right around the corner on some thin edges. Hasn't Dan given you route info? If not, I'd be happy to help. Please email me!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Right On! I haven't received anything from Dan. But, I haven't been ready for more info until recently. I have been making notes on all the climbs and figured when the time was right the info would come along.
I figured some routes from you guys might have been renamed over the years. I would love to get the scoop on all the stuff you guys did and set the record straight for the guide. We are planning on sending the route this Sunday. The moves getting to the arete are nuts! Va VA Voom... You guys did a great job.
I have 50 climbs documented just on High Eagle but half don't have names or FA info yet!
My regular email is didgeridoings@aol.com
I think I have climbed most of the routes already and have some of the info but...
If possible I am organizing the info for routes like this:
Location - Grade - Name - Bolt count, Gear Req., Anchor type - Length in Meters - Description - FA Party, Date
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Urmas,
For High Eagle SE Face, there's a whole topo which I think Louie Anderson made, on rockclimbing.com. Here is a revised version of it:
[topos and route list updated 6/6/09]
and a redrawn version:
Here's a photo overlay based on it, using a photo from Matt's page:
And a route list - many of the names are missing:
High Eagle Dome - SE face (approach trail from notch campsite)
361. Song of the Night 5.10a *, 4p, p1: 5.8 or 5.10 ow, p2: 5.10a to 5.7, p3: 5.8
362. Gravity's Rainbow 5.10, crack, R of last pitch of Song of the Night
363. Night Hawk 5.10c *, 4p, p1: 5.10a to 5.10c, p2: 5.9 to 5.6 knobs
364. un HE C 5.10a, 6x, gear, 120'
365. un HE D 5.10d, 4p, 5.10b/d ow
366. un HE E 5.11a, 11x, 100'
367. Eagle Dreams 5.10b *, 4p, p1: 6x, gear, 100'
368. un HE G 5.10d *, 12x, 100'
369. un HE H 5.11b, 8x, 80'
370. un HE I 5.10c, 5x, gear, 55'
371. un HE J 5.10a, 6x, 80'
372. un HE K 5.11a *, 8x, 80'
373. Easy Rider 5.11d, 16x, 140', black hangers?, at start climb K and reach over to clip ER bolts
374. Tranquility 5.13c *, 16x, 130', wide black streak on headwall, some chipped holds
375. Spirit Waves 5.11b, 10x, 90' to midway anchors, or 165' finish on VtA
376. Sky Clad 5.13d pr., belay at top of Spirit Waves/VtA, face R of black streak
377. un HE O 5.12, __x, crack between Spirit Waves and Voyage to A., 110'
378. un HE P 5.12d, __x, upper wall, p1 to anchor, p2 crosses streak
379. Voyage to Antiquity 5.10a, 13x, gear, 175', parallel and L of EKN
Joins Spirit Waves
380. Turkey Vulture 5.13a, 20x, right from top of VtA on obvious underclings, 2nd half 12b, reachy, 165'
381. Eine Kleine Nachtmusik 5.10a *, 3p, p1: 5.9 60m, p2 5.10a slab, p3 5.6 knobs
382. A Gathering of Eagles 5.11 *, 1p, __x, gear
383. Threatened and Endangered 5.11d *, 11x, 175'
384. Bio Luminescent (halfway) 5.11a, starts just right of TaE
385. Bio Luminescent (full) 5.12c, 20x, shares anchor with TaE, 165'
386. Eagle's Gift 5.12a *, 1p, joins The Eagle has Landed
387. Illuminati
388. Crack Attack 5.11c, 3x to L-arching crack which joins Illuminati, 80'
389. The Eagle has Landed 5.12b *, 3p, over roof and up arete
and some FA info which is probably incomplete/wrong:
361. Song of the Night FA: Eric Richard, Herb Laeger, Greg Vernon, 10/87
364. un HE C FA: (for several of these routes) Dan McDevitt, Sue McDevitt, (some) Urmas Franosch
367. Eagle Dreams FA: Jim Matthews or Patrick Paul, Greg Vernon, 9/88
377. un HE O FA: Sean Leary
378. un HE P FA: Sean Leary
379. Voyage to Antiquity FA: Gary Henning, 9/05
380. Turkey Vulture FA: Grahm Doe, 2007
381. Eine Kleine Nachtmusik FA: Jim Matthews, Greg Vernon, 10/88
383. Threatened and Endangered FA: Richard Leversee, Kevin Daniels, Herb Laeger, Pete Cassam, 1997
385. Bio Luminescent (full) FA: Grahm Doe, 2007
386. Eagle's Gift FA: Andrew Stevens, Ron Carson, 10/88
388. Crack Attack FA: Grahm Doe, 2007
389. The Eagle has Landed FA: Ron Carson, Andrew Stevens, 10/88
And for historical reference, the page from Greg Vernon's supplement (sorry this does not reproduce very well):
|
|
Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
|
|
Thanks Clint! Dan's the one who recorded the route names and other info. I left him a message and hope to hear from him soon. I'll be going there myself in a couple weeks, and my memory will be refreshed. For now there's not much I can add to what you guys alredy know. Do you have a photo of the east face?
Grahm, May you send on Sunday!
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Urmas,
Here is a long distance shot of High Eagle East Face (SE on L, NE on R) with a crummy camera from the east (Chiquito Dome). Grahm and Matt probably have much better shots of the East Face.
High Eagle East Face - SE on L, NE on R
[other photos deleted - see Grahm's below!]
Again, Grahm probably has a much better shot of this.
|
|
Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
|
|
Thanks again clint! I'm impressed by your detailed route knowledge, and the photos to back it up. I really liked your photo of the DNB, showing the aid and free variations. It made me want to get on it again!
These east face shots show a few of the lines, but a clearer straight on shot taken earlier in the day would be needed to really show all the routes.
Keep up the good work!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Great work Clint!
I do have some good shots of the East face and I'll post them up in a bit. I have been on all the routes except one on the far right side. We will get on that one soon too. I got that old poot sling off one of the routes last year. Its been hanging there for 5 years!
Urmas, I would be happy to meet you up there and go over your routes with ya when you come out if its helpful.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Sheesh, 50 routes on High Eagle alone?? Why would anyone go anywhere else? Does that include the Baby Blues Wall (Vernon) up top?
Clint, good pic of Delk's "East Crack". Heard it's kinda dirty though.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Nate,
I left out Baby Blues Wall, (upper L SE face), because I figured the route names/history was known for those. (But now that I looked, I don't see any FA info for those climbs....) Here it is - didn't mean to neglect it! :-)
Baby Blues Wall (upper SE face of High Eagle, can approach from top)
354. un BB a 5.8/5.9 tr
355. un BB b 5.8/5.9 tr
356. Baby Blues Buttress Left 5.10 tr, slightly overhanging arete to BF anchor
357. Baby Blues Buttress Right 5.10+ tr, slightly overhanging arete to BF anchor
358. Bird Feed 5.10c, 5x
359. Song of the Birds 5.9, double ropes recommended
360. BB chimney 5.5
We apparently walked down past this when descending from Eine Kleine Nachtmusik last summer, but I didn't check out the climbs.
|
|
Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
|
|
I'm pretty sure the 2 5.10+'s were done by Dan.
Grahm, It would be great if you and Dan and I could meet up out there! I'm not sure I can arrange that, but I will email you to let you know when I'm coming out. I look forward to meeting you and exchanging info!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Just let me know when your ready, I can meet up any time.
Jeremy - Changeling went down at 11c with gear and bolts it shares the 50 meter anchor with Shape Shifter 12b. Now stop hassling me or I'll slap u with my giant mits! ;-)
Heres my topo for the East Face. I have been calling it the "Dark Side Wall" because it is so dark with lichen and its in the shade most of the day. The wall to the left is Shape Shifter Wall and has 5 routes. I have all the beta on those. This wall needs FA, date info and maybe a consesus on grades.
The Dark Side - This large slab wall has dark colored rock that extends from the Shape Shifter Wall all the way right to the first routes encountered on High Eagle.
1. 5.8 - Gear - A three pitch route up the deep depression in the dome. Originally done in 5 pitches. FA Jack Delk, Guy McClure 7-75
2. 11c or d - 60m - 16 bolts plus gear to 1.5” for a 30 foot long seam section higher on the route. Shared closed cold shut anchor with 3. A great route.
3. 10d - 60m - 19 bolts, 9 to midway chain anchor 10b and 10 more to shared closed cold shut anchor with 2. A short crux above the 30m anchor leads to wandering seam climbing above. Bring many extendible draws to reduce rope drag from low on the route and especially for the upper section.
4. 11 c or d - 3 older bolts and gear. 3 pitches. Start by climbing a short 12 foot crack to a bolt. Follow around a flake system and then clip two more bolts up a slick slab. Run it out to a good ledge system below the big left facing dihedral. Follow the dihedral up on gear and then continue up to the summit.
5. 10b - 14 Bolts, open cold shuts - 30m - An excellent climb with fun holds. Start up a thin short dihedral past 2 bolts and then work your way up the face. Eventually you reach a good crack system. Easy run out 5.9 climbing leads to more bolts. Place gear up to 1.5 inches if you like. After following the crack / dihedral left climb back right across the face to the anchor. A tough move to the anchor makes most people grab the anchor to drop the rope in.
6. 11b - 10 Bolts, ring anchor - 30m - Start off a high ledge by either traversing in from way right or by climbing any of the short cracks below the ledge. Any easy but commiting step up leads to the first bolt. Follow a short left trending seam before climbing back right. Continue moving right across the dome on wild moves with slopey feet. Past the last bolt mantle off a ramp to reach the anchor.
7. 10a - 7 bolts, chain anchor - 25m - Start off a ledge and trend left until reaching a thin under cling flake that leads back hard right to the anchor.
8. 11a - 11 bolts, chain anchor - 30m - Shared first bolt and last 2 with 9. Climb up the thin flake and straight over to a difficult face move. Then move right across a delicate traverse and then up to the anchor.
9. 11a - 10 bolts, chain anchor - 30m - Move right off the first bolt and then up thin seams and a steep bulge. While the holds are clean the lower section off the route could use a good wire brushing to remove lichen. A bit spicier lead than 8.
10. 10c? Bolts Climb up the steep bulges. Haven't climbed yet.
11. Spencer guide shows route up the right shoulder of the dome.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Very nice, Grahm! Your guide is gonna be great! This should make it easy for Urmas and Dan to spot their routes.
|
|
wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
|
|
I didn't see Stanley anywhere on the FA list for high eagle...Didn't he do Turkey Vulture, or something right in that region?
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Sean Leary (aka Stanley) did some FAs at the Aerie, which is right next to High Eagle. Maybe that is what you are thinking of? And of course my FA list is quite incomplete. I'm sure Grahm's is better. Hopefully Dan and Urmas will fill in the blanks on their routes, too (using Grahm's photo overlay on the previous page).
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Clints topo shows Sean Learys 12d on High Eagle as Turkey Vulture. Turkey Vulture is actually one of my lines and its just to its right. Don't remember getting a name from Sean on his route. He also did an optional approach pitch to his route just left of Voyage to Antiquity. I think thats all of his routes on High Eagle.
|
|
wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
|
|
Yeah Grahm, I was belaying Sean on his route right next to turkey vulture, at my friend Brian's bachelor party. You were climbing right next to us. I just didn't see it on the topo, and based on the topography, figured it was turkey vulture.
|
|
Slater
climber
|
|
Way to go "big mitts!"
They made me do it...
Too bad they were lame and used old stock footage (9 year old pictures!?? WTF and recycled! from May 2000 issue of Climbing no less) instead of the rad shots we got during the cover shoot. I have to say, I lost a little more respect for the rag. Not sure what they were thinking and it makes me question Duane's eye.
In fact, Grahm, post up the horizontal shot of you on Shangri La.
I would if I could figure out how. Something something... Img blah blah blah[ ] ?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Dave - My email is didgeridoings@aol.com Please send me any info you would like to share. We have been looking at those cracks and wondered if they had been done yet. I can get your pin back to you if you want it. There also was a small stopper just above it. I also puller some mank stoppers and a hex out of the lichen covered dihedral crack to the right. I assumed Crocodile Hunter was never freed past the roof. Was I correct? Did you have a working name?
I can send you a topo of Crocodile for referencing where your other routes are once I get your email.
Tom - You got some amazing shots and its a shame they didn't publish them.
Rather than send you privately how to post pics I'll do it here in case someone else wants to know.
Go to www.photobucket.com and create a free account. Other free image photo sites are similar like flikr. From your account choose upload and find the image on your computer. It will resize it for you for the internet. After its uploaded put your mouse over the image and a bunch of options will show. Copy the "img" code into your text on the forum and bam! you've got pics!
|
|
Slater
climber
|
|
This never translates successfully on a Mac.
When I put my mouse over a picture nothing happens.
And I spend all my time uploading onto my own website, I don't want an additional site to spend time on.
Shouldn't I be able to use my own site addresses? Email me... told you I had issues.
Thanks Mitts!
|
|
Slater
climber
|
|
Did it work?
Right click for a Mac user = hold down the "control" key while depressing the mouse, then "copy image address"
then do what Grahm said.
This pic is pre-photoshop adjustments. Would probably darken it a tad.
Grahm on Shangri La, Shuteye Ridge. (above and below)
and one from Hobbit Dome... Majestic Arch-(below)
|
|
socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
|
|
I love seeing pics of Shangri La (the wall and the route). It's such a colorful expanse of stone and the route is one of my favorite FA's of all time.
Thanks for posting.
And in case you ever had any doubt, magazine editors publish and print whatever they feel like printing...including replacing feature pieces with stock shots they might already have.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Where is Shuteye ridge?
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Grahm
> Clints topo shows Sean Learys 12d on High Eagle as Turkey Vulture. Turkey Vulture is actually one of my lines and its just to its right.
Fixed now - thanks for the correction. Sorry about my confusion.
Jay,
Shuteye Ridge is east of Oakhurst, and NE of Bass Lake.
West of Mammoth Pool and West of Minarets Road.
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
Hey Crazyhorse and Grahm -
You guys get up into Shuteye this weekend? Matt, did you make it out to something "long and easy"? ;)
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Three of us made it out on Sunday to High Eagle, Aerie and 557's. We had morning sun, afternoon clouds, a bit of wind and temps around 60. Good for sending!
We all sent Eagles Gift aka Va Va Voom. It even saw a flash which was pretty cool.
I finally finished the trail work to 557's from the Aerie. Now its quicker and with less up and down hiking. There was an old trail and I was able to link the new one into it with some clearing. Now the trail comes out of the woods right across from Hobbit Dome.
On 557's Fa'd a new 10b/c just right of See You In Heaven. 200 feet of amazing face climbing and the second half climbs on both sides of a water runnel that looks like a pipe split down the middle. Dreamy incut horns pop out every time you need one. 21 bolts with a mid way rap station. It sounds like a lot of bolts but it doesn't feel like a sport climb with an average spacing of 9 to 10 feet apart. I am calling it "Half Pipe Dreams"
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
Nice Grahm! '5 Amigos' (the unfinished project just left of the Gold Buttress) was finally finished. Went down at .10d with 2 bolts linking up the lower to the upper crack. Goes a full 60 meters before the crack (5.6) ends in the corner next to the buttress. Also, put up two new routes on the Gray Slab (75' left of '5 Amigos'). The left route (which is just 10' right of 'Fill In The Blank', the OW/crack climb) is still a TR. Tough slab/face climbing.....checks in at solid 5.11. Calling it 'Blister The Bird'. The right route, which starts on a boulder, is a bolted line (7 bolts, 85 feet) heading up steep slab with subtle dishes and tiny smears with two demanding cruxes (both mantles, the first involving a balancy high step/rocker over move). Calling it 'A Touch Of Gray', .10c.
|
|
Slater
climber
|
|
Grahm, glad you put in a mid-way rap station next to ...Heaven. Now we don't have to walk all the way around :) or risk a rope snag. Thanks man! Those two routes are gonna get a LOT of traffic.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Heaven forbid anything at Shuteye gets a LOT of traffic. A lot of traffic at Shuteye is like a ghost town anywhere else. :)
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Too true. Maybe they will see two ascents this year! Congrats on the new lines Mooch and team Lost Eagle! The mantles sound rad. I look forward to trying them next time I am out that way.
|
|
Slater
climber
|
|
I bet they see THREE ascents a year. Cause I'll do them three times in a row.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
Saturday's temps were ideal......Sunday a bit warmer making those subtle dishes and tiny smears a little more peely.
Def-Nately a temperature dependent route. ;)
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
I should have some things to report soon - expect a report in a few weeks...
Tiki, you had good weather Sat? It look like it was going to storm all day over by Gray. Turned out only to drizzle a little.
kev
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
Kev, I should clarify. It was very ominous looking all day.
Cool rock equals good friction. Good for sending!
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Tiki,
Sat I figured out the approach to what we've named "The Nest."
Looks like 4-10 2-3 pitch routes of varying difficulty. I will report when finished.
A few friends of mine put up a 3 pitches on another formation and I think finished their line Sunday. I haven't heard from them since Sunday AM and I'll let them tell you about it...
Anyhow give me a few more weeks and I should have some new stuff to report.
Yeah the clouds sat were all show no go!
kev
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
tiki - Call me re shoes, in the next few days... I was in storage recently and pulled a bunch out. I think I got both pairs out that you were interested in...
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Jeremy,
No it's not "Eagles Nest." It's a small lower seperate buttress
near some other domes. The name seemed appropriate given it's size, the number of nest like pine needles around it and it's overall shape. Plus there aren't a lot of names left staying with the tradition up there. That and "Baby Eagle", "Little Eagle", and "The Eaglet" didn't seem right for the formation plus are a bit, uh, well girlie. I'll post a report in a few weeks when I've got more to report, and give Grahm and others the topos.
kev
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Jeremy,
No eagle in the name!
kev
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
sf ca
|
|
1 vote for Kev naming it
"Chicken Hawk Eagle Rapist Domelette"
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
How about Berchtesgaden, has that been used up there yet?
hehe....
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Cool, kev.
Beagle Dome? :-)
Raptor Snack?
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
Hey Kev, besides the Eagle names there is the religious names as well....Check out some of the old Jack Delk routes and there is the Book of Revelations. We're working on one called Exile Dome.
I'm done with the eagle names myself.
Our last was Lost Eagle Dome.
Ya also got Queen's Throne......perhaps something along those lines??
JR....what's up....call me.....you so funny!!
Ger
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 11:50am PT
|
Yea, what's up JR? Woulda been great havin' you there this weekend. Still up for the idea of enjoying cervs at North Fork. Yep, Sat. actually was ideal for sending. Hey Ger.....post a few pix. Especially that one of that guy freakin' out on '5 Amigos'.....what a hoot!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 12:49pm PT
|
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
|
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 06:00pm PT
|
Tork -
Anyway you can post those photos in another format? Not showing up on my end.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 07:37pm PT
|
Not sure how????
Are they showing up for anyone else?
Jeff
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
|
I can see 'em. Just can't figure out where they are, except for the 1st one on Chiquito.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
|
I can see!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 09:41pm PT
|
Slowona Dome
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2009 - 02:19am PT
|
Just can't figure out where they are....
Here's a few that you CAN figure out Nater.....Shuteye photo tease time! ;)
Whimpering through the FA of 'Five Amigos' (.10c/d)
Tiki-Ger on the sharp end while jamming up 'Fill In The Blank'
The "Lost" Boys: Doct R, Nate D, Miner, Mooch and Tiki-Ger
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2009 - 09:19am PT
|
mooch, now I can't see your pic????
Jeff
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2009 - 11:08am PT
|
Grahm, where is See you in heaven? What's it rated? Pictures?
Jeff
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2009 - 01:06pm PT
|
Tork, I like the chiquito pic, really shows the size of the dome, like a fly on the wall.
See You In Heaven 5.10a (two cruxes, one is the thin start, the second is on the small roof). If you're facing 557s dome, it is on the far right side of the cliff near the end. The best way to get to it though is to rap in from the other side, it'll save you 20 minutes of hiking (but there are also many good routes on 557s you'll pass by if you do the hike... depends upon what your objective is). You rap the route to its right (climber's right) to a midway station that Grahm just put in. That route is also 5.10 and that section of the cliff is amazing. The impressive face between the top of the route and the Aerie is Hobbit Dome (lowest formation of the three clusters).
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
|
Ya Tom(?), that side of Chiquito is awesome. Took a couple of friends from Tasmania (Nick and Heather) out there last weekend, they loved it. The pic is of Nick on the first pitch of a route I started last fall. Just finished the pitch,60ms, a few weeks ago, two more long pitches to go.
As far as 557's, the two long 10+s are my favorite pitches at Shuteye. So See You in Heaven and Grahm"s newest are way downhill from those?
Is the arrow pointing to Hobbit Dome in the pic?
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
|
Yes, your arrow is actually pointing exactly to the notch where you climb up to the top and then down to the rap anchors for the south face routes (on Hobbit). All the routes are on the other side, which is about 140' tall.
You'll walk from the Aerie over across the white sandy pebble/mini-scree in the picture to that notch. You'll do a mantle move between a sharp edged boulder and the Hobbit (you can stem it), then traverse left across a tiny ledge. That'll get you to the top. There are 4 really good 5.8 routes with bolts/pro mix and a fun .11b on the cap stone that you can TR if you want, or lead (6 bolts). Enjoy!
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2009 - 03:57pm PT
|
A few photos of John and Sue on the FA of Guns of Brixton
near Gray Eagle.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2009 - 04:45pm PT
|
Tasters Choice!!
Looks good Kev, what's it go at?
That upper area looks sweet!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2009 - 05:02pm PT
|
doh, Matt, some bad news for my So Yo/Sierra visit. Was thinking over 4th of July when you was around, but no can do that weekend now.
Have to go East Side due to being outvoted. Sudern stuff will have to be a later weekend. Anyone need a belay monkey on a particular trip? Tiki-ger, whaddayathink?
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2009 - 05:42pm PT
|
Um tentatively .10bish
kev
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2009 - 07:39pm PT
|
Mungie, We'll be meeting up around the 4th of July.....Hopefully all 5 Amigos(in da photo)will be around.....you are more than welcomed to join. Mooch is with Brutus now for the Spire.
My email did get hacked into awhile ago....thanks for bringing it to my attention. I can't use that account no more.
Cool Kev! We need some consensus at our area as well.
SSCA is to have an event in the area soon.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2009 - 07:56pm PT
|
oh sh#t, that sucks then. I can't make that weekend on the 4th of July. :(
ok, I'll touch base with you guys as we get into July.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
|
So I did Thief in the Night on friday afternoon. Super fun but I have a question - why traverse left under the roof I continued along the natural line. Also in case anyone is looking for consensus it felt like honest 5.8. Super fun!
kev
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2009 - 03:13pm PT
|
Did the natural line stay natural?
By the way, cool pics earlier, kev. Assuming that trad line is truly virgin, isn't it such a gift that they are still out there for the taking?
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2009 - 04:06pm PT
|
Yeah that's what confused me. The natural line continues with plenty of pro. It's a tiny bit dirty but not a munge fest. It ends at a horizontal crack (which takes gear) between the two bolted anchors. If it hasn't been done, guess it should be called the "The Direct Kev Variation." It's pretty mellow, can't be harder than 5.6 but does follow the natural line.
Really no need for both bolted anchors 20 ft apart with a bomber horizontal crack between them. The lower anchor raps with a 70 no problem and need chains. I left a sling and rapped the sling.
There's a bunch of good locking stuff in that area btw.
kev
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2009 - 04:14pm PT
|
Kev said: "The Direct Kev Variation."
More like the "Sparks Direct Variation"
God you SOYO guys are having too much fun!
Good show down there.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2009 - 02:28pm PT
|
Didn't see anyone at LE on Sunday where were you guys hiding?
More pics to post this week (once get motivated for this computer stuff.)
kev
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2009 - 03:12pm PT
|
Hey Kev, I had the kids this past weekend.
What did you guys get on?
Will be back there on the 18th.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2009 - 03:57pm PT
|
Spent sat over at Gray, then we had a sun induced mutiny and went
over to LE. We did more of the stuff on the super featured wall (the burrito climb, etc).
We'll be back friday PM as usual...I'll be there until monday PM. I'll try to find time/energy to post a few more pics.
kev
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2009 - 04:14pm PT
|
My partner and I may be in the area for our first time this Saturday. We're stoked. We'd like something fairly long, 5-7 pitches, and kinda easy 5.6-5.8. Any recommendations? I've seen photos of Captain Obvious before. Is it an easy approach. We are looking for a relaxing day out rather than "full value." We have one of those planned for later in the summer.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2009 - 07:30pm PT
|
Hey Micro, Welcome back!
LE is just a crag really having a few 2 pitch routes on it.
PM me or send an email and I'll give you directions.
SSCA will be there Saturday too.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2009 - 07:59pm PT
|
"sun-induced mutiny"
I smell route name potential, kev.
I'll possibly see you guys Sat. afternoon, with a few kids in tow.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2009 - 09:16pm PT
|
Nate,
I'm eying a roadside cragging area, that if it pans out, will be called Mutiny Wall.
kev
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
|
"sun-induced mutiny"
That's not quite as good as "The Kiosk of Spray".
Have fun at LE guys! Nate and Kev.....go do our new slab to the FAR left called "Today's Gift" (dedicated to Bruce and Em). Tell us what you think.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2009 - 10:58pm PT
|
(dedicated to Bruce and Em). Tell us what you think.
That's f*#king really cool....One for the story (guide) books!
Cheers, guys, I may make it up there in August for KevFest!!!! I've already gotten wife-approval.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2009 - 11:13pm PT
|
Nate
Cool on putting up the route for Brutus and Em. Hope it was cathartic. Anyone sticking around Monday besides myself and my partner?
Bluey there's no kev fest going on just a mellow birthday party somewhere in the woods...
kev
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2009 - 06:27pm PT
|
Actually, the route was put up by Tiki-ger and I (for the record).
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2009 - 06:31pm PT
|
Sorry Mooch,
My memory, reading ability, and eye sight are apparently going with my old age...I'm good with faces, yes, but sometimes connecting names and faces gets jumbled - never mind the online names...Anyhow cool on the line.
More pics when I get home from work - I promise.
kev
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2009 - 08:03pm PT
|
I unfortunately never met Brutus, but in an email exchange, he did express interest in getting back to Grey Eagle and doing a possibly unclimbed OW that was - from what I gathered - up high and to the right of the alcove.
You could go jump on it Kev, and dedicate it to Wyde.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2009 - 08:21pm PT
|
I actually think I know the line you're talking about.
It's actually in the alcove on the right center then jogs
left under a big roof to double crack system, no? If that's the one then it's already on the to do list.
The Great Depression is dark dank and nasty BTW....I think I'm avoiding a lot of lines in Spencer's book and sticking to the new stuff or stuff that's been done by 'The Lost Boys'...
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2009 - 09:09pm PT
|
There's bound to be some older classics out there, kev. Most just haven't been reported, eh? And RRs lines on Queens look tasty, but I haven't been yet.
Here's what Brutus had to say:
'Would you happen to know if that OW roof just to the left of “The Wing Feather” has been climbed? That line looked sweet, and I could see myself making another visit to the area just for that! Looks like #5 Camalots through #12 Valley Giants.'
Later, he clarified it was 'right of the rap route, OW in left-facing corner'
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
|
So call me a liar - the pictures are going to have to wait - can't find the stupid cable....Sorry about the pics I'll try again tomorrow.
Nate,
Yeah there are 2 OW's to the right of the raps.
I'll give you a full report on them in the next few weeks.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2009 - 10:46pm PT
|
Kev,
I'm hoping to be out there Sun & Mon, still trying to line up a partner. Don't hog all the campsites! Just kidding. Is the lower spot tree free?
Tork
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2009 - 09:21pm PT
|
Jeff,
The lower spot is our new home, complete with a table! Plenty of parking now.
All, pics as prommised...
John on the FA of a sweet 10.c roof!
Yours truly working my Gray Eagle Project
Me on the FA of The Path of Tree Resistance - the easiest way to the Owl.
The Beagles Nest
Me on the FA of Phat Beagle Booty Want to Dump a Load.
John and Sue on a possible FA on Grey Eagle.
Owl Wall.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2009 - 10:05pm PT
|
Thanks for sharing the pics, Kev! The owl is very distinct in that 3rd pic.
That "possible" FA by John and Sue is too "obvious" to be an FA, no? :) Seriously though, Tork can verify if his route "A Dream Within a Dream" (10a/b) goes up that corner or stays on the face to the right.
(Don't know if you saw, but I responded to your route order list on rc.com, BTW. Gave my armchair interpretation anyway...)
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 16, 2009 - 02:34am PT
|
Nate,
Yeah we think that route may have been done before not sure though. It all comes back to the 'obvious' qn.
More pics to come....If you guys get bored stop by and say hi this weekend - we'll be at our current home (8 weeks now :)
Gotta set up the bar this weekend...
kev
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jul 17, 2009 - 12:15am PT
|
Nice pics Kev and thanks for cleaning out that site.
Nate, I think Pete said he did that corner. No matter, it sure is sweet. My line, A Dream within a Dream, and the original var are shown in Kevs photo below.
Kev, are you guys gonna be out there Sun and Mon?
Jeff
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Jul 17, 2009 - 01:09am PT
|
Looks cool Tork, met you and the wife at Shuteye a few years back. Ya'll were camped out across the road from Nate and I.
Ever been to LE?
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 17, 2009 - 01:50am PT
|
I'll be there friday pm till monday pm this weekend, and will prolly be there every weekend for a while. Why break tradition this is week 8 in a row...I'll also be there either the 24th-1st or more likely the 31st - 1st. Might wander over to LE sunday PM. See everyone this weekend!
kev
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
the ground up
|
|
|
Jul 17, 2009 - 03:22am PT
|
Looks fun up there .
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jul 17, 2009 - 09:58am PT
|
Tiki, been there once. Way cool.
Who all will be out there this weekend? No partner, who can I join?
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Jul 17, 2009 - 10:36am PT
|
Tork, Nate and I will be there as will several others.
Please swing by and say hello. I'll be there tonite thru Sunday!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Jul 17, 2009 - 12:47pm PT
|
Nice work kev! Those are some cherry lines. Way to get them done. 8 weeks is a long time but it looks like its paying off big time.
That roof shot is sweet! I want to come check them out ASAP but I screwed up my back.
Its going to be a hot one this weekend so bring lots of beer... um water...
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jul 17, 2009 - 10:18pm PT
|
Grahm, sorry to hear about your back, what did you do?
How early does Chiquito get sun?
Does anyone know if the road is clear all the way to the top of Chiquito, heard a tree was blocking the way earlier this year.
Tiki, are you gonna be at Lost? What's the shade sitch out there?
I think Gray has the most shade potential. Looks like Kev is working a new route there on the far right that gets shade most of the day. Anyone up for Gray?
I have Sun & Mon off for sure and am on call for work tomorrow til 9am, so good chance I will have most of Sat.
Jeff
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2009 - 01:32pm PT
|
Bout once a year for no good reason the muscles in the middle of my back go into spasm and it hurts like hell. Takes a week for them to relax and stop hurting. I am thinking of trying some of them black arts and seeing if acupuncture will help.
Chiquito gets morning sun till late afternoon. I haven't chainsawed the tree out of the way yet. Its possible other users have. Its been too hot for Chiquito lately. I am waiting for Fall.
Lost has the same sun situation but maybe goes into the shade a bit earlier.
Heres info on some new routes on 50 5.7's:
Three Stooges Wall : Follow the creek down to where the wall gets the closest to the water.
A. 10c - 25m- 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor - Start off of a large white slab at the base of a rust colored section of the wall. More pitches to come. FA: Urmas Franosch and Hunter Sibbald 7-09
These three routes share the same starting area under a detached pinnacle.
B. 11b - LARRY - 30m - 10 bolts, ring anchor - Head a little left over the blocks and then back right and up the slab to the big ledge. Optional 1” piece before first bolt. Climb up the arête. One more optional 1” piece to get the high bolt. Power through a steep dihedral and bulge to the anchor. FA: Urmas Franosch and Hunter Sibbald 7-09
C. 11b - MOE - 35m - 7 bolts, gear to 3", shared chain anchor - Follow a right trending crack a short ways before climbing the left side of the pinnacle. Continue up through a steep featured dihedral and bulge. FA: Urmas Franosch and Hunter Sibbald 7-09
D. 11b - CURLY - 35m - 4 bolts, gear to 3", shared chain anchor - Follow a right trending crack through the right side of the pinnacle. Follow the crack / seam up to an undercling and power through a bulge. FA: Urmas Franosch and Shayd Otis 6-09
E. 10b - Lucky 7’s - 60m - 7 bolts, 7 slings for horns and a few gear placements up to 2” - A full 200 feet of knob climbing. Climb B, C, or D to the 35m anchor. Head straight up the dome and through the big pillar of stacked blocks. Continue up to a left trending dike to reach the steeper head wall. Giant knobs and tuffas lead to the top of the dome. Sling giant horns at the top for the anchor which is 10 feet below a bush and summit boulders. FA Grahm Doe, Leo Miner 7-09
F. 10b - 3 Pitch - Gear to 4" - Hike right of Three Stooges. Head up the crack systems to the top of the dome. FA: Urmas Franosch and Hunter Sibbald 7-04
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2009 - 12:49am PT
|
Thanks for the info Grahm. Good luck with the pins and needles.
Jeff
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 20, 2009 - 11:47pm PT
|
Grahm,
Sorry about your back - perhaps you should avoid the pins and needles and just try some good old fashioned Jack?
Actually my ankle is torched right now so I feel your pain in much more than a figurative way.
I think we're there for pretty much the whole season or until a rattler gets us. We had a bit of a scare getting wood for the fire last night.
Jeff,
You've got to come by some time. The parking situation is much improved! Yeah, I'm working something over on the right side, John and Sue have a bunch of stuff floating around too.
Anyhow I'll post up some pics this week - I'll even throw in the bonus movie!
cheers all
kev
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Jul 20, 2009 - 11:52pm PT
|
Hey Kev, nice seeing you guys again!! Nice meeting you Mucci. And of course John and Sue. Can't wait for the tour ya'll.
Did you guys encounter some buzzworms?
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2009 - 01:37am PT
|
Hey Jer,
Good times on Saturday. Thanks for showin' us around. We hit those pools on the way back....unbelievable. We were so dehydrated I was having vision issues in my left eye. We hadn't been out for a while so we went pretty hard for a couple weekend warriors. Total of 5 routes and nine pitches on two formations separated by 15 miles of road, door to door home by 9:00pm. Fun day. We actually thought the second pitch 5.8 sections on Funnel Runnel were kinda tough. Between those two upper bolts and that skinny left leaning corner, it was kinda slippery. Thanks to you and Nate for sharing the place. We'll keep it on the DL. See you around.
|
|
The Wedge
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2009 - 03:07pm PT
|
Nice to see that Urmas is still getting it. I like that guy and his routes too. He sucks as a TELE skiier....I so have to get me butt there. Reeder talks so highly of it and the pics he has are amazing. Heading to Tahoe for a guick trip maybe I will get there before school starts in late Aug. Keep on getting IT!
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2009 - 04:00pm PT
|
Lost Boys & Beagle Cru ~
Anyone run up 'Todays Gift' at LE? Glad all enjoyed the pools. Speaking of which.....some of us here in the climbing community need to work on their "Give A Hoot" ethics. Diving for beer bottle caps and fishing out plastics cups should not be happening at such a special place. Walk the walk.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2009 - 05:42pm PT
|
All,
Mooch is right and on that note here a msg for all the smokers in the area....
We all (if not, you'd better start) pocket our butts. HOWEVER WATCH OUT if you jump in the swimming holes they can sneak out of your pockets. So clear the pockets of crap before swimming. Let's keep this place pristine!
On a side note canned beer doesn't have glass to break or tops to loose so consider getting hydrated with crappy cans!
Your crap beer spokesman,
kev
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2009 - 07:04pm PT
|
Yeah, this is my go-to cragging package...
Now I'm thirsty.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2009 - 07:36pm PT
|
That's right folks, pack it in pack it out. That includes tp, or at least burn it. Finding a lot of tp sticking out of a lot of rocks at Gray.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2009 - 07:55pm PT
|
Jeff,
I've been puzzled by that one too. We've been good about cleaning stuff up but I keep seeing stuff around there, and honestly have been confused by it. There was stuff at the 'new/old' site when we cleared it out. I've been wondering if there's a garbage bag hiding around there somewhere and stuffs driftin in but it hasn't been windy either. Any ideas - I'm really puzzled on this one? What I've seen is not TP but paper towels.
Also there's some crap right off the road now which seems to be growing. I wonder if others have been up there? We have seen a few motorcycles on the road once or twice and something was leaking a fluid on the road (i'm guessing and OHV).
I did a little experiment Monday and will let you know the results in a week. I'll email you about it.
FYI other than mile high point the only trash friendly places are the FS campground off the road heading down to the reservoir.
I practically got attacked by the campground host trying to put a bag down in the trash at rock creek or whatever campgrounds are right off 81...Seems like a silly policy - the FS want to encourage people to keep stuff clean, no? Moreover we're talking about a single garbage bag.
Also watch out there a rattler living in the wood pile above the new site - we met him sunday PM...
kev
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
|
Nice, kev and mucci!!
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2009 - 11:35pm PT
|
Tork, Kev and Mooch. I know the Lost Boys do a good job at cleaning themselves......no trace. Seems like paper towels are a step up from newspaper though....never mind the cackling hens.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2009 - 12:09am PT
|
Enough with the LNT, I know a bunch of folks were out there over the weekend. Post up, anyone get some pics?
I made it out to Fresno Dome on Sat, got to climb an exciting new route put up recently by clmbmtns.Then on Sunday I got to climb Larry, a new route put up a few weeks ago by Urmas, on 50 5.7s Dome. Had a great time with friend but no photos.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2009 - 12:35am PT
|
Jeff,
Not too many pics this weekend. However this is Josh on a new 5.9 on the Owl. Not yet named.
kev
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2009 - 12:55am PT
|
Thanks Kev, looks good.
You've got me curious about your experiment, send me a pm.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2009 - 01:14pm PT
|
Nice work everybody.
I have some photos I'll post soon. Our routes for the day included:
-West Face of the Golden Toad 5.7 3 pitches to summit?
-Tales From the Wadi 5.10a.....nice little route Jerry.
-Seek and Ye Shall Find 5.8....steep awesome knobs...sooo good.
-Funnel Runnel 5.8 3pitches to summit
Awesome day in a new place.
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2009 - 04:46pm PT
|
West Face of the Golden Toad 5.7
Where's that route????
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2009 - 05:09pm PT
|
Mooch,
The Balls, no?
kev
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2009 - 05:11pm PT
|
That's right! Thanks brother Kev!
Going to be up there over the long Labor day weekend (Sept 5th/6th). Let's link up! Tiki, Kev, John, Sue, Nate.....you game?
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
|
We'll be there. If I can keep my pace up that'll be 15 weekends in a row!
kev
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Jul 23, 2009 - 12:35am PT
|
You're an animal!!
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 23, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
|
An animal - haha, not so much. My ankle might be better this weekend. Regardless I'll be there...Prolly over at LE on sunday.
kev
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 23, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
|
An animal - haha, not so much. My ankle might be better this weekend. Regardless I'll be there...Prolly over at LE on sunday.
kev
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Jul 23, 2009 - 01:32pm PT
|
Dang! Wish I could make it up there this weekend.....a few cans of brew in tow for Kev "The Animal". Deb and I are playing "sporto" this weekend and enjoying some fine vino from Stuart Cellars to boot.
Hey Ger.....you think you can make Brutus' public memorial on the east side (August 28th/29th). Any of the rest of the SR crew?
|
|
Macronut
Trad climber
Fresno, Ca
|
|
|
Jul 23, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
|
Want to second everything Micronut had to say. Thanks for the enjoyable weekend and the pools were key for finishing up an awesome day of climbing. Hope to see you guys and gal out there again soon.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2009 - 11:04pm PT
|
Just wanted to share some recent pics from Shuteye Ridge...
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
|
All here is my lazy weekend mini TR.
Sat at Gray - repeated pitch one of one of John's new things (Eschers Way - which kicked butt!). Later, took the easy way to The Owl then put up one new pitch. Put in second bolt and chains such that one can get off from with 3 70m raps (provided you know where the trees are to do the first 2 raps.) Hit the river, drank the beers I had chillin in the river (left one for J & S) went back to camp. Chilled with Grahm for a bit before he went home, cooked and drank.
Sun - Got up late and went to the pools at LE. Enjoyed the water and sun. Went and did a few routes. Drove out. Cooked burger near Bass Lake. Finished the drive.
No pics, sorry - perhaps next weekend. I'll be back Friday PM.
kev
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2009 - 08:30pm PT
|
Kev, you keep promising pics man, post up.
Also, can you send new route info my way?
You need to check out Wanderlust.
Might finally be able to make it out there next Sun & Mon.
Jeff
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2009 - 11:18pm PT
|
Nice pix GD!
What do you guys know about mountain lions around a chef's camp?
Kev? Tiki?
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2009 - 11:21pm PT
|
I just talked to kev, he may have some beta on that, Josh.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 28, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
|
Yeah there was mountain lion scat in the site sunday AM...
Jeff,
Alot of the topos are paper but we have copies. You're welcome to them. Come on by this weekend! Bring yours to - we're trying to piece everything together....
Here a pic or two...
J & S on the FA of Carin Crack .11
S on the FA of TicOwlish
And I.C. in the happy swimming holes
kev
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Jul 28, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
|
Hey Mucci, there are cats around. Saw tracks on the LE trail last year. Just keep the Salmon wrapped up good.
Course the more we're out there chances are we'll have a sighting for sure.....and the more folks there....well safety in numbers, eh?
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Jul 28, 2009 - 03:53pm PT
|
Being the short and port chef in our camp, I have wondered if the cat would rather enjoy me or the Tri-Tip that john and sue always bring?
Kev is in the clear, all the big cats know not to mess with a "Hard swilling, bushwhackin, load humpin, spider monkey with a broken axe in one hand and a bottle of gin in the other!
Hope to see you this weekend Tiki
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2009 - 11:19am PT
|
Beautiful photos Graham! Really evoke the peacefulness of the place. Good to see you last weekend!
Mooch - Not sure where we'll be Labor Day w/e yet. Been promised a first trip to Needles one of these long w/e's... and I'm kind of holding to it for now! Hopefully we get to see you again up there before then? :)
Mucci - Power in #s with the Cat burgler around! Glad you'll be there this w/e... not just bc as you say you may be the tastiest choice of all of us... Should be fun!
See ya's!
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2009 - 03:35pm PT
|
Busy schedule these next 2 weeks, with a jaunt up Charlotte Dome this coming week and some projects with Pat Brennan in and around Lake Arrowhead/Big Bear area next week. Sure miss those refreshing pools at LE.....magical! Anyone heading out at the end of the month to attend Brutus' public memorial August 28th-30th @ Lone Pine Peak's Stonehouse?
Kev and crew....did Nate send you an updated topo of LE?
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2009 - 03:37pm PT
|
You mentioned Labor Day-ish, for Shuteye. Might be into that. Finally get some shots of you guys. I have some time off scheduled, although I may be moving it to October for a wall project with Ammon. Keep me posted on your plans, Dave.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2009 - 04:09pm PT
|
Dave,
I need to email Nate - been busy this week.
Those pools are super special.
I doubt that I'll make it to the memorial - I might have met Brutus for a moment once (not sure) but didn't know him and it just doesn't seem respectful for me to go. That may sound stupid but it's just my strange ethics. Hope it makes some sense.
Have fun on Charlotte Dome that sound stellar!
Randy,
This will be 10 weeks in a row for the three of us. There are no plans of leaving (except perhaps for some much need bolt removal one weekend) until the weather gets bad.
kev
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
Randy -
Yeah, we are planning on Labor Day weekend to hang out in Shuteye. You can finally meet Mrs. Mooch! And sure would be good to hang out with you......literally! We need some good shots of folks on routes at LE. I'll be sure to bring my feather boa and wind fans.....need that poser/windblown shot on 3 Feathers.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
Gonna be up there this coming weekend at the Balls August 8-9, for the second SSCA balls event. Mostly climbing on Nightwatch dome with the club. Anybody that wants a tour of the area is welcome out for good company, good times, and good stone. We'll be camping at Bowler, some come on out and join us.
Also, we won't make you join the club, but it's worth coming out to see first hand the trail work, rebolting, and other stewardship projects that the club puts forth whenever possible. I've got topos to share for anyone that wants to get out on some quality routes.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Pictures will get posted after work tonight. Got shots of
Grahm, Tork, me and others for this weekend!
kev
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
Cool, mooch. Would be good to hang, for sure. Lemme see what the deal is as far as shuffling time around for the other project. I have three days, regardless.
crazy horse - wish I could make it that weekend. Have plans to head up north tho, to hang with friends for the weekend. One of these times you're down we'll be able to hook up. Have fun out there. Planning on getting out there and checking out the topo you sent soon. Thanks for that, btw.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
After about a month away, I made it back to the Gray. Never thought I'd see that many partys on that wall. Kev and mooch hanging it out on their new proj, Grahm working on his steep ass new line, John and Sue tossing rocks off their new variation and Mon and I trying to clean up a very overdue job(sorry folks) and starting another. The fixed rope is finnally down. After about 110' of never ending pump, the route ends at two bolts(Hellion 11a/b or maybe 10+ and I was just tired??).Maybe more pitches to come?
It was nice to hook up around the camp fire afterward even if it was for a short time. Had a great time all, too bad the approach is such a long, steep, overgrown bushwack and the rock is all choss. You guy are great hope we all hook up again soon.
Jeff
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
It was good to see more people this weekend!
Ok here are a few pics. More will come when I find my camera there are from Josh's camera....
Me and Josh at the belay just before I set off to continue the FA of "The Physics of Death". I was heinously hungover. People said I was green that morning.
Me above the roof - it's way bigger than it looks.
Josh rapping from the end of P2.
Grahm was 'hanging out' doing some work too!
Later in the day Josh was taking his usual dirt bath....
How do you say never been climbed better than a dirt bath?
Tork gettin busy on Gray!
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
Hey Kev.....what did you think of 'A Touch Of Gray'? Still have yet to lead it (Roger is the only one who's lead it). Waiting for cooler temps before launching into it.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Um if that's the bolted slab to the right of the fun widish 5.7 corner - its frickin HARD. John lead most of it with hangs (he was prolly hung over). I made it up on TR without hangs but it's hard. Nice line! Yeah cooler temps might help - plus perhaps being hangover free for slab.
kev
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Man,
Now you've got me thinking about that route. The friction moves are sustained! Sustained and cruxy until almost the very end.
kev
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
"The Physics of Death", as opposed to "The Art of Life", eh? Heheh. So you're a cup-half-empty (or beer-can-half-empty, as the case may be) type of guy, kev?
Looks like dirt-groveling fun! Now I understand why you carry the huge wire brush. But dirt is the new black...with maybe a touch of gray.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Mooch,Kev, where is A Touch of Gray??
Bolted slab, how many and how long??? Need the info.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
Big Kev really bucked up for that lead....STEEP!
Tork- nice to meet you, looked like you guys had fun over the weekend.
Graham- thanks for the words up high, couldn't quite stick it though, HA!
Take care all,
Mucci
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
F*#k, you guys are having waaayyyy too much fun out there!
I'm coming...soon!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Likewise mucci, next time we'll hang out by the fire a little longer. You guys and gal sure know how to have fun out there.!
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Nate,
Life's been crazy - I'll email you tomorrow....
The name comes from Sean's route and the anchors we originally placed (before they were bolted/pinned.) When you climb it you'll understand - not so happy. We're calling it 5.8 if you don't link to The Art of Life and 5.9 if you do. Might be a little sand on the route if you get my drift :)
kev
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Tork,
A Touch of Gray, contrary to what the name suggests, is not at Gray Eagle, but at LE. 1 80' pitch, but if you had a 70m rope, and continued up thru p.2 of Fill in the Blank, you could go all the way to the top of the dome in one long pitch.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
We went up Friday to LE and did Funnel Runnel, the route to the right of it and Tales from The Wadi again. Then We tried to find a way up the face of The Matterhorn...Only to find out that it gets really tough......like .12c or something. Downclimbed rather than leaving a biner. Dumb. Great day out though. The Pools are worth the trip alone. Had the place to ourselves. Thanks agian for showing us the place.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
You betcha, micronut. So you didn't find The Yodeler Indirect 5.9 on the Matterhorn? All trad to the right shoulder.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Micro - Yup, the Matterhorn route you got on was "Summit Fever" 12 b or c. Still needs a second ascent I believe.
Great to see everyone out at Grey last weekend! Tork glad you finished the first pitch on your route. Looking forward to trying it.
I finished the work on my route but am having trouble finding a partner for Saturday. First pitch is 5.11 then some 5.10 pitches and easier to the top. I would like to lead all the pitches for the FA.
If anyone wants to come up and climb I could sure use a partner. If 5.11 is too hard you can always jug through the short crux sections.
My email - didgeridoings@aol.com
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Thanks for setting me straight Nate!
Grahm, would love to hook up on your route but this weekend wont work. I will need a partner for next though. Also, can you send me a topo of 40 Miles of Rough Road on Gray?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Thanks guys,
Unfortunetly, next weekend won't work for me. We are organizing the 10th and final year of JT Didge Fest. If your a didgeridoo lover come on out and get some climbing and jammin in.
http://www.jtdidgefest.com
I left Hans a message, John and Sue graciously offered to join up so one way or another its getting done! woohoo!
Heres the beta on Urmas's route Tork. Can you please send me the info on your lines at Gray?
11a - 40 Miles Of Bad Road - (in memory of Dennis Yates) 5 pitches - Gear to 4.5", bolts -
P1 11a Follow a right trending crack / ramp to 3 bolts and a roof. Climb out the left side of the roof and back right to two bolt anchor.
P2 10a Climb up on gear and then through 4 bolts to a two bolt anchor.
P3 5.9 Use wider gear to climb along a unique water groove to a small roof and then one bolt to a 2 bolt anchor.
P4 5.7 Climb up a dihedral and then easy 5th to the top.
FA: Urmas Franosch and Hunter Sibbald
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
I might be tempted to go up Sunday...
I'll be up at the Balls on Sunday if you'd want to come join us JR. Camping in Bowler, getting a lazy start, then i'd like to get some time in on a proj i've been looking at for the last 2-ish years
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
Any of you guys know if the following sweet crack has been climbed up at Lost Eagle.
Its on the "Bonus Wall." Left of the Matterhorn. Its the sweet looking finger crack on a golden wall, prolly 40 feet high. Uphill from Book Ends, but before you get to the "Cave" around the corner. I assume its been done, but you know what happens when you ass u me. Are there anchors on top that are easily accessible for a top rope?
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Yes please do tell all about said crack...It could be a Sunday project if it hasn't gone yet :)
Odds are 50/50 on me being at LE on Sunday. Gray for Sat and either gray or LE on sunday. I'll be up there for about a week and a half starting late next week - can't wait
kev
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Grahm could confirm, but I'm pretty sure his TR line "Double Bonus" 5.11c goes up thereabouts, although I don't think the description mentions the crack. This is based on his photo topo, which he can post up, when he sees this and if inclined. Looked to me like, with all the plates and edges on the upper half, it's more easily climbed as a face climb than a pure crack climb. But it could be a cool shorty trad lead if it takes gear. Grahm?
OH, and it's not on the topo yet, but worth mentioning that Roger recently climbed a short steep handcrack a bit right of Book Ends, and left of Garudas in Bermudas, which went at roughly 5.11a just off the deck and then easing up. Called it The Hardmouse Stem, due to the mouse living within, which exhibited excellent stemming skills.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Stemming mice? Rad! I also love how squirrels and lizards make us climbers look so lame as they free solo across smooth rock. As if thats enough the lizards will stop and pump out a few push ups as if to say "what?! you want some of this punk?"
Did all these back is sept, 07. Was thinking about leading them but didn't think they were worth the cost of more bolts. Have at em if your interested. B will probably need a bolt or two before you can plug some gear in.
A. 11c - Bonus - 10m - 2 Bolt Anchor - Toprope - Climb the big yet funky to use flakes to two shallow horizontal seams. Moving left at the top makes for an easier finish.
B. 11c - Double Bonus - 12m - 2 Bolt Anchor - Toprope - Fantastic line with hard moves down low to enjoyable face and seam climbing higher.
C. 12b - Triple Bonus - 15m - 2 Bolt Anchor - Toprope - Climb up the arete and move left off the lower block. Puzzling small face features and off balance moves lead to bigger holds and the top.
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 11:00am PT
|
Speaking of 'Garudas In Bermudas', has anyone else done that line other than me and Roger? Still thinking it goes .10d/.11a....need some folks to check it out. Will be up there Labor Day weekend (hopefully with nice cool temps to get on the sharp end to do 'A Touch Of Gray') to get some hang time with the Shuteye crew.
|
|
Setageus
Trad climber
East Bay San Fransisco
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 11:23am PT
|
Hi Mooch,
All we've done at LE yet is Burrito Bandito, Prolly Bomber, Seek and Ye Shall Find, If Found Please Call, Tales from The Wadi, Touch of Gray, and something not in the guide that's bolted and just left of Gold Buttress. Need to go back and get the last two finished. The Melting Wall is full of classics.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 11:29am PT
|
Try Power to the People, Let it Bleed and Dazzed Vizzzion.
All good to do in cooler temps! And classics in their own right.
Oh and then there is WingMan.
Remember I tried Garudas Davey. No doubt with some time off and shoulder healing, I'll have to give it another go!!
Cooler temps rock!!
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 12:19pm PT
|
So sad it's curtains for the didgefest. Was hoping somebody would step up and take it over.
Dude's, I'd climb Southern Yosemite and do the didgefest at night. What a sweet combination that would be
http://www.jtdidgefest.com
PEace
karl
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 12:30pm PT
|
S -
Wondering if you were on 'Five Amigos'(.10c/d).... steep face climb, passing two bolts to a fist/hand crack above which leads to easier terrain.
Here's yours truly whining his way during the FA of Five Amigos...
Then again, you could be talking about the bolts on the vary FAR end of the Gray Slab (near a deep slot, next to the Gold Buttress). That would be Grahm's line leading up to the arete route.
Tiki-
Charlotte Dome went off without a hitch. Sweet route.....that South Face is a true classic. Rock is very similar to Courtright! Mrs. Mooch and I did the route in a little under 7 hours.....simul'd the first 5 pitches. Photo TR to follow soon. Check out the Lost Boys Flikr account. The return hike out to Onion Valley blew chunks though :/
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 01:13pm PT
|
Weekend report to come soon (tonight or tomorrow).
Karl,
Check your link - it's on this year. Talked to Graham Sat he's there (he runs a didgee shop)
kev
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 01:17pm PT
|
I was commenting about this being it's final year. Sorry for the misunderstanding
Peace
Karl
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 01:37pm PT
|
The route just left of the Gold Buttress is Blazing Saddles 5.12a, by Hansel. Heads up the blunt slab then tackles the steep arete, as mentioned. Look forward to seeing your pics of Charlotte, mooch!
Oh, and Grahm, it was a climbing mouse indeed, as it reportedly had a nest made of someone's chewed up bright blue webbing. Don't think it was sporting a chalk bag yet, though!
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 03:42pm PT
|
Ok it looks like I won't have time to post pics this week, so here's the quick report. Graham's got some good shots. Especially of his new patented super dynamic sling!
Graham, John, and Sue did the FA of Grahams new 5.11a on Gray. Reports are that it is a STELLAR line. Good job all!
I put up "Don't Leave Your Bro Behind" 5.7 pro to 6 inches on Beagles Nest. It follow P-Crack then veers out onto the face a bit when it gets really wide. I think the name explains why I didn't follow P-Crack all the way.
Mucci and I are heading up thursday PM for a while (read as 10+ days) so get a hold of me if you want to know more details about our lack of a plan.
kev
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
|
"I think the name explains why I didn't follow P-Crack all the way."
No Kev, it's because you left your Huevos at the camp.
Oh and you didn't have me yelling at you, which we both know makes you send.
Edit: # 600 Baby Whoooooop!!!!!!!!!!!
|
|
Setageus
Trad climber
East Bay San Fransisco
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 05:29pm PT
|
O damn, Mucci, you beat me to the 600th post!
Had a lot of fun climbing Grey Ham and Chicken Heads at Shuteye! It's amazing!
The climb in question at LE involves face climbing to slopers around a bulge, but we took the thin crack that's right there until it runs too far from the bolt line. Nice photo Mooch! That climb looks really good.
We probably will be around Labor Day wkend afterall. Just can't seem to leave the area!
Did first 2 pitches of Tork's climb Dream within a Dream. Needs some traffic on the 2nd pitch, but it's beautiful climbing!
Trying to post a photo of Tork on his last climb finished at Shuteye if I can get my first ST photo posted properly:
BubbleShare: Share photos - Find great Clip Art Images.
Will have to try posting photo again later...
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
|
Look forward to seeing your pics of Charlotte, mooch!
See our Flikr account for recent photos Nater. ;)
Wow! I got the 602nd post.....whoopee!
Set, kev, John, Sue and crew.....everyone is planning on Labor Day? God, we're total Shuteye whores! :D
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
|
mooch,
Unless I don't make it up on the 29th, that'll be 15 weeks in a row...Swing by on the 22nd if you're in the neighborhood, it's my bday! There will be beer!
kev
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
|
Hey Seta,
Heres and easy way to post pics.
1) Get a photobucket account.
2) Make the account private (otherwise you'll get weird stalkers)
3) Upload your photos
4) Go back to the album view, scroll the mouse cursor over the photo, copy the IMG link (I think it's the last one that shows up when you scroll over a photo
5) Paste the IMG link into the taco and voila!!!
kev
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 05:43pm PT
|
mucci,
Um, yeah wait till you climb it... Last pro 20 feet below marginal nut and green yellow alien tied as a mini anchor....
"It's only 5.7 but a little sandy'
Reguardless P-crack will get finished friday or monday...
kev
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 05:44pm PT
|
Sh*t!!! Got plans with family...sorry bro. Belated beers comin' for your b-day present....and it won't be Bud Light. Surprise! :)
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 05:46pm PT
|
mooch,
Hahah. I actually have been drinking bud light because it really seems to hydrate me pretty well. That and the cans crush down.
See you in a few weeks at some point either way!
kev
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
|
Kev, Do I need to bring the 2x4's?
It's only 5.7 reads: Your getting "Wydebagged", Been there, done that, needed 2 #5's!
As to the Beer switch, Kev had a honorable "good beer" drinking ethic which has since disappeared. During the winter times the "Kev" can be found in the lower canyon of the Valley. He usually needs those extra calories to stay in proper fighting shape. Thus mass quantities of pale ale and some brutal elixir named eye of the chickenhawk or something usually get consumed and little climbing gets done.
Right now he is prepping for wall season and wants to maintain his ghastly figure for the ladies at the pools and those occasional wide sends.
As for me, the lightweight stuff is killing me and I vow to bring some good micros for the weeks to come.
Oh and I can't wait to get on some of that good LE stuff! Whooooop!
Mucci
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
|
Tork at Shuteye Ridge Finishing his project:
Also have a one-second movie by accident of you Jeff! Learning to use this camera still. :}
Photo of pools:
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 12:27am PT
|
Kick ass!!!!
I've received clearance from my wife that I can go to Shuteye for the KevFest 2009!!! She was gonna come too with my son but decided to stay local.
I'll be there the weekend of the 22nd. See you Shuteye bumbs there!
(kev already gave me the down-low on etiquette for the area)
I'm stoked!
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 01:10am PT
|
Yeeaaahhh Bluey, can't wait buddy!
By that friday me and kev will probably be on a rationing program with the 4 thirty packs we have for the trip.
I know Col. Blue will bring in some 12 oz reinforcements!
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 02:00pm PT
|
Kev....its all about resistance training, bro. How on earth will you cope when we need to hit the higher reaches of Shuteye and you're toting foo-foo water?
Again, this will "fix" that discrepancy:
Substitutes as a big bro for uberwyde lines......problem fixed.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 02:13pm PT
|
^^^^BWHAAAA!
"toting foo-foo water"
that needs to be a route name!
Kev is turning in his cubicle right now, " If i drink ten good ones, I can't manage the approach, If I drink twenty foo- foo's, you'll be catching up all day"
I have heard a version of this explained to me at one point or another, once again I do not condone any of this FOO-FOO!
Mucci
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 04:02pm PT
|
Wait,
You mean I can use that can for the wide instead of bringing 2x4's to make my big cams bigger! Wow I can drink, partially crush and wedge between cam and wall! Perfect for the wide.
Graham,
Post up some of those pics....Especially of the Hane's Pro!
kev
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
|
Mucci thinks we have only 4 thirty packs...snicker....
New rout name
"Foo-foo brew - I will send and you will spew"
kev
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 04:14pm PT
|
DMT,
Apparently the stove thing is a portable set up - bring in, use for an evening and take it home...It doesn't reside there.
kev
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
|
Hahahaha,
Um, it resides within 30 miles of Bass Lake. It's not an LA type thing - it doesn't require gasoline or lighter fluid...
kev
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 06:43pm PT
|
'Foo-foo brew - I will send and you will spew'
HHHAAAAAA!!! Count me in on the FA! Mucci, you in?
FFA = Foo-foo ascent
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 07:32pm PT
|
It's settled then, Mooch you and me get hammered on good beer (5% or better). Kev drinks his 20 buttlights and we send him off. This needs to happen!
Sometimes just watching kevin lead will cause an involuntary upheaval of the grandest nature.
The guy never pukes, he turns aqua green. Throw him on something runout or steep and it's like the bile just gives up on it's mission to impede climbing for that particular morning.
Kev- bring the beer bandolier
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 08:04pm PT
|
Sheesh, you guys ever heard of this stuff called water?
So Grey Crew,
Pete did confirm that the corner pictured (along the right side of "The Wing Feather" buttress) is indeed "Book of Spring Pages". Note that this is contrary to the route location that he posted on rc.com.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 08:24pm PT
|
Nate,
Isn't that what's in those blue cans market bud light?
I thought they were one in the same....
kev
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 08:27pm PT
|
Nah, it's the ultimate foo...
and cheap as cheap too!
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 08:36pm PT
|
Keep it comin all, hopefully we can get kev to kick the Foo by week 15!
P.S. I wonder how many "Pete Routes" I have had my eye on.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 08:38pm PT
|
Hey now - I'm not the only fooster there!
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
|
Kev's choice of agua brew when he's on holiday in the Land Down Undah.....
...Foo-sters
Grey Crew?? Are you playing "Shut-Eye Mind Tricks" again Nater?
Great root name, eh?! ;) courtesy of your local Mooch
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 02:52am PT
|
Hi Nate -
Is Pete sure he's not thinking of the corner system that comes out of the 1st pitch of Wing Feather? At the 150-foot point in the corner we are pictured climbing here, the crack was so covered in black potato chip lichen and crusted rock, it's hard to believe anyone stepped foot there before.
Also, there would be no possible means of getting down without leaving signs. There's not too many ways to continue up, and someone would remember how even if it was 15 years ago. We know those options and would be interested in a description from Pete.
We are not a big fan of the blanket statement that anyone climbed everything obvious but left no topos. There's scores of lines we consider obvious. Did he climb them all?
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
|
Hi Sue,
He's been very busy, but says he'll dig for details. I've also pointed him to this thread, and he enjoyed the pics.
For better or for worse, SoYo's climbing history is simply riddled with mystery and ambiguity.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 03:25pm PT
|
Thanks Nate.
More Shuteye just bc would be nice to be there now:
Just a section of Gray's few picked plums, and many still waiting to be picked:
& Kev at Owl Wall area w/Gray in background:
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 03:49pm PT
|
You mean you're not sick of the place yet?!!
Which plum has the dandy splitter crack start pictured?
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 03:56pm PT
|
Sick of the crowds, the rangers, the snakes, tigers and bears? Ohhhh No! When are you guys going to get over there?
Hopefully not *too* obvious, as it looks really different when right under it. If referring to the one that tilts like a feather spine w/another crack stemming off it, that's Escher's.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 03:57pm PT
|
I believe that's the start to Escher's Way? Susu is that the case? If so I will say it's fun fun fun for all of pitch one!
kev
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 03:59pm PT
|
Nate,
Rumor has it I might be passing one of those decade marks soon - and it will happen at Gray!
kev
|
|
sneville
climber
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
|
Susu,
You are right about Escher's. From far away like in the picture it looks so sweet and we were jealous watching you guys climb it, but then we came over to get the second accent and it was hard to tell where it started. Nice route. Did you guys make it any higher. I am trying to get away for one of these weekends to try your new lines. Save one for me.
Sean
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 04:15pm PT
|
Sean... We would all love to see you & Jess out there anytime. We have better topos to share now, too. We could hop on Friendly Skies with you guys and the Pink Balloon.... there's a bunch more cragging to do up at Owl ledge. Plenty to go around...
We hear you guys may make it out for the Kev fest hopefully? s
Here you are Sean on Escher's that day - a little fuzzy tho:
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 04:18pm PT
|
Sean,
Physics of Death has yet to see a 2nd ascent! It's just to the left of Escher's Way - passes through the roofs!
kev
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 04:52pm PT
|
susu wrote:
When are you guys going to get over there?
What?? You guys haven't built an escalator up to Gray yet? I'm too old for approaches like that! ;)
BTW, has anyone in the crew sampled 'Intrepid Voyage' yet?
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 04:55pm PT
|
I have a nice little video montage I put together last night from a couple weeks ago at Lost Eagle. I'll try to get it up here soon.
I'm thinking of bringing the wife and kids up to Lost Eagle this weekend, Fri thru sunday. We plan on camping for the weekend. I'm taking each kid on our annual "overnight backpack trip with Dad." I'll prolly try to get on something one afternoon.
|
|
sneville
climber
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 05:07pm PT
|
Thanks for the picture Susu. Yeah we will try to get some days up there and do all the new stuff. Kev does your route go to the top? Did you just try calling me? Can you send me a topo of physics of death?
Sean
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 05:11pm PT
|
Mooch, Hmmmm... righhhht, you'd run circles around... well... for sure at least me! But, somehow I think you know that! [How long does the edit button last on these posts??? I keep adding changes til the last moment.]
I've not yet tried Intrepid. Have you? Any recommendations here?
Geesh... I've got to get back to work. ST is addicting.
s
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 05:26pm PT
|
mooch,
I haven't tried Intrepid Voyage yet. It's in the sun zone....
In a few weeks once it cools down.
Sean,
It links to the Art of Life. We are working on taking a line off of it to the top.
Ummm, the topo is in my head but I can draw you one when you arrive.
Yup that was me calling...
kev
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 06:39pm PT
|
'Intrepid Voyage' was put up by me and Matt Schutz in '04. 3 pitch route, mixed gear and bolts. Checks in at .10a. 1st pitch is the crux. All the rest is cruiser 5.7/5.8. Matt had the sweet topo I gave him. Dunno if he's still got it. Kev, you find it (the topo) somewhere online? I think I posted it by description on rc.com and mountainproject.
susu -
Always underestimate an overachiever.....unless he's got a pair of "Cyndi" lopers. Eh Nate? The escalator.... er, trail out to LE proves it!
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 06:44pm PT
|
mooch,
John and I have the topo. Basically waiting till fall for that and "Around the Corner"
It's too sunny over there right now for me.
kev
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
|
Be sure to bring also the "Crud Light" for pro between the narrow slots of the patina plates.
"Nudge, nudge....nowuddahmeen?" ;)
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 06:58pm PT
|
Can't beat those BOMBER Sapporo cans!
They would surely handle a wyde section!
Buttlight would crumple under my body weight!
Kev, if he stays on this Diet plan of low calorie/hops water will get all of those dicey A3 pitches this autumn!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 10:48pm PT
|
Well, now i want the topo of Intrepid Voyage... will be on the lookout for it.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 11:03pm PT
|
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 11:12pm PT
|
Thanks Heffe'! And I stand corrected on the FA date (Aug. 05). The hand drawn topo is a bit better IMO.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 11:16pm PT
|
Wait there's a hand drawn one! I want a copy of that!....
kev
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 11:20pm PT
|
Kev -
You'll have to torment crazy horse (Matt) for the damn thing. Wondering if he used it as a snot rag. Arrgggg.....I spent some time on that one. Should've burned a copy.
Matt working the 2nd pitch of I.V.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 11:23pm PT
|
Who has info on the routes just right and left of Intrepid Voyage?
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 11:25pm PT
|
Jeff,
Matt sent me a topo for around the corner - you want that?
kev
I've also got a pic showing the line to the right somewhere that I dug up on the web....
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 11:27pm PT
|
please
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
|
Jeff,
I'll bring em with me - think it's at work (where i'm going tomorrow AM only :) I'll be there from tomorrow night through the 25ish...
kev
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2009 - 11:38pm PT
|
What's that halacious roof in the background?????
Unholy!!!!!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 13, 2009 - 02:54am PT
|
Isn't that roof part of "Storming the Castle"? Or is it still unclimbed...
Have a great many days out there Kev (and mucci?), but do leave a bit of untouched rock for the rest of us greedy & wayward souls, eh? :) Happy b-day too!
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Aug 13, 2009 - 11:15am PT
|
Here's a few minutes of Lost Eagle for your viewing pleasure.
Its a little herky jerky for some reason in the beginning. Pause it and let it load for a while so it doesn't have to buffer.
Something is kinda messed up with the compression, because on my Mac Book Pro its High Def and crystal sharp.
Enjoy.
http://www.vimeo.com/6076987
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 13, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
|
Nice film Micronut! Makes me want to see a longer version - a climb, then the pools, another climb, more pools, more...
Also, the rock on the photo above of Intrepid Voyage looks amazingly clean in the photo Tork posted. Is it as clean as it looks?
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 13, 2009 - 12:12pm PT
|
susu,
Nah it's a pile of choss like all of Shuteye....
T minus 51 minutes and counting till I depart!
kev
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 13, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
|
Yeah Micro! Nice Video!
I am gonna hit up LE this week and see what all the fuss is about.
If I make it past the pools!
See you guys at one point or another!
Mucci
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 13, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
|
Kev - Just keep teasing us and you'll have us crowding you guys in no time! s
|
|
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
|
|
|
Aug 13, 2009 - 02:01pm PT
|
T minus 51 minutes and counting till I depart!
You suck Lost Eagle eggs, kev! JEALOUS!! :/
Beautiful vid of LE, Micro! You captured the pools beautifully!
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2009 - 02:59pm PT
|
I see Tom Slater's NorCal guidebook is out (Maximus Press is selling it). 'California Road Trip' retails at $49.95. Nice shot of Grahm on the front!
Randy.....can you make it out Labor Day weekend? Hoping to get a good "hero" shot on Three Feathers! HAHAHAHAHA!!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2009 - 05:00pm PT
|
I'll email you, JR. I reckon you are referring to the thin friction climb "God In An Alcove" 5.10c
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2009 - 05:25pm PT
|
"Randy.....can you make it out Labor Day weekend? Hoping to get a good "hero" shot on Three Feathers! HAHAHAHAHA!! "
Hard to say, mooch. I'm supposed to possibly be working with Kris on a project and also a friend of mine has asked me about a shoot on El Cap. That week is filling up fast! Chat me up on FB or shoot me an email so we can chat about it.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2009 - 10:31pm PT
|
Trip reports are due on my desk first thing in the morning!!!
You know who you are.
And don't forget the pics!
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2009 - 11:36pm PT
|
We're swillin right now preping for our 35 pic masterpiece!!!!
Not to worry Brah - you're in it too :)
kev
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
|
bring it!!!!
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 12:57am PT
|
So you asked for it!
First off I want to say thanks to everyone for comming to the KevFest! Thanks for everything all. A special thanks to John and Sue my shuteye buds for 13 weeks in a row!!!! You two ROCK!
Also want to add a 'Kick Ass' to Tork for the fun day and to Bluey for the B-day entertainment value!
Ok so here it is............
The fully stocked camp. Not all the adult beverages are pictured but this gives you an idea of the proper preparational efforts.
Mucci way to excited, modeling the beer bucket.
A typical meal professionally prepared by the iron chef Mucci.
Really the whole trip was a carcathon.
A few photos of the Beagles Nest...
The FA of 'Poultry in Motion' 5.7 (? - we've been called sandbaggers so you go climb it and let us know whacha think!)
The FA of 'The Will to Live' 5.10a. The name comes from comments made after lowering of the second bolt. The belayer MUST bring his A game and jumping skills to the belay.
Jeff doing the second Ascent of 'The Will to Live' a day later.
Don't blame us for the rating it was Jeff's call!
First bolt on another project after the patented Mucci slide.
Jeff drilling by hand - Josh and I are wondering when he'll toss aside his Bosch just as he's wondering when we'll pick one up!
Kev preping for the FA of P-Crack 5.8 OW. Mooch, notice i took your beer recomendation!
Sportin the wood!
The start...
Obligatory photo of Crunchy Corner 5.9 (done a few weeks prior).
Ok everyone, we're taking a beers break (no that was not a typo...and this realtime during the production of the TR...)
Ok were back now.
So a few months back I put up
Phat Beagle Booty Wants to Take a Dump (5.7).
I had to stop at the Death Dump. Since the climb felt unfinished I sent Josh down to flush the load. Here's the video of the flush - the climb has been renamed 'The Loose Stool' 5.7.
[url=http://s430.photobucket.com/albums/qq21/kevinclimbs/Bday%20TR%2009/?action=view¤t=S7300924.flv]{{img}}h~~p://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq21/kevinclimbs/Bday%20TR%2009/th_S7300924.jpg[/img][/url]
Next up for your viewing pleasure...Yours truly putting in the second set of anchors down the left side of the Beagle. Two raps with a single 70m gets you down...Looks like I had a lot of beer for breakfast that day....
I earned this one.
Late in the day some day - chillin.
A typical evenings entertainment consisted of nature walks showing a few of the shuteye locals. We had 10 of the little suckers in our site one night. Not to worry we later learned of their high caloric value.
Followed by Sylvester the puddy cat. Susu, don't look at this.
A typical rest day.
Screw Gilligan and his little dingy - we set sail on the FA of 'The Titanic.' It's the chimney/crack system going half way up Grey Eagle.
Me cleaning to the new anchors on the Iceberg Ledge. You remember what happened to the Titanic with the Iceberg don't ya?
So sitting on the Iceberg, Josh start telling me that the A3 lead is mine. WTF I think, I've never nailed, only climbed two easy walls and he's the self proclaimed God of aid. I respond 'A3 is not my fortay!' So Josh tensions left to the corner and begins the scariest 2 hours of our lives. As he heads up to 'The Sail' (the big f*#koff detached flake in the photo below), I hear moans of fear from josh and moans of our deaths from the flake. Midway into A3 expando nailing Josh yells 'I've got to throw a few hooks, hang on.' I can hear the wimpering as he drills a bolt from the last hook. With the bolt in place suddenly he yells 'Kevin extend your leash and move to climbers left! CLIMBERS LEFT - THIS THINGS GONNA BLOW!!!!!' I immediately light up what appears to be my last cig of my life and tell him to stop f*#king hammering. The dust settles, the flake moans more then seems to go back to it's nighmareish sleep. Josh lowers off the bolt, leaving all the half driven baby lost arrows in place too scared to clean them. We will finish this over labor day weekend :) And now you know the story of 'The Sail.'
On our rest days we did a bit of exploring...And it payed off.
Some goodies around here.
Obligatory B-day Bluering shoot.
B-day weekend begins...
Susu leading the second ascent of Gray Ham and Chicken Heads (Grahm's new line.)
Josh rapping it later. Mucci says 'Susu you're his hero!'
Me on my birthday starting up yet another Owl Wall project, 'The Golden Shower.'
Check the the B-day post that Mooch started for the after party pics....
Here's a topo of a route we did a month or so ago just incase you're interested in checking it out - seriously we want to know how you think it should be rated.
Sadly I'm back to home, taking a rest weekend (WTF - you thought i could keep up this pace all year? I had to take one weekend off to clean house (my truck) - not to worry I'm back for 4 days the holiday weekend!
G'night all!
kev
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 01:15am PT
|
Unbelievable, A fine TR on what was the best 11 days of my climbing career!
Way to go Kevman!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 01:26am PT
|
yep, 100% badass!!!!!!
I had a great time. One of those pieces of wood seemed to have a .40 caliber hole splitting it (after I got there).
How did that happen? Good times!!!!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 03:02am PT
|
nice rock. crazy peeps. :)
FYI, it may not be the first, but Gerry (tiki-jer) has a shorty sporty route on Fresno Dome called "Golden Showers", est. in 1992.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 03:13am PT
|
Damn, Tiki beat us to it by 17 years! Great name.
Where is Tiki, haven't seen him around lately?
That guy is one cool cat.
Mucci
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 09:43am PT
|
Good work boys, A+!!!!!!!!!
Heading out there today. Planen on getting back on Gray Matters, that big ass chimney above the Hellion.Wish me luck.
Jeff
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 11:41am PT
|
Love you guys! Totally faithful to it all. Hoping we can hook up on Labor day. Jealous on this end.
Kev-- you buccaneer! you've earn 5 mooch points by converting to the "dark side". HA!
Davey wanna try scary A3 root!!!
Good job guys.....and gal!!
As for Tiki-Ger.....he's been working a bunch and putting some focus on his family. Working on getting him up there on Labor Day. Want you guys (kev, tork, john, mucci, sue and crew) to check out a formation. Will email Kev.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 12:13pm PT
|
Tork,
Nice route names - love Gray Matters!
kev
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 01:17pm PT
|
Sweet TR! Kev earns the honorary local award this year. Your prize is more wide crusty cracks. You know you love em!
Those scorpions are huge. In the years I have been up here I have never seen them that big. Guess your just lucky. I don't know about eating them though!
Congrats to Sue on getting the second on the first pitch of Grey Ham and Chicken Heads. Bad ass.
Keep the FA's coming all. I'll post some pics up when I get a chance too.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 01:21pm PT
|
Grahm,
Thanks for the award, although I think that award has to be shared 3 ways between John, Sue, and myself...Thanks though. Headed back for 4 days in a week! Not to worry we'll keep the FA's coming.
We had 10 scorpions in the sight one night. At first they creeped me out a bit but after days of hanging with em, they're my buds now.
:)
kev
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 01:25pm PT
|
Again, not that it really matters...
but there is a route called Gray Matter already on the Aerie. (see rc.com)
although it definitely seems more appropriate for Grey Eagle. ;)
moochers,
And what "formation" might that be?
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
|
Nater -
DH.
Hey Grahm or Nate-
Either of you got a current topo of Chiquito Dome? Pat Brennan is heading up on the 29th of Sept to hit up Chiquito then head over and check out LE.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 01:42pm PT
|
I drew up one last year that includes all the right side routes - right of Liberty, that is.
Will need to scan it though. The Spencer guide or Vernon's topos will show best the center routes (although there are discrepancies between the two). I'm sure Grahm has the left side mastered.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 06:21pm PT
|
Good name Tork, Hope you brought the tape and high tops for that one!
Grahm- Steep is all I can say about GH and CH!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 07:45pm PT
|
Such a sweet place around Grey Eagle...I haven't even been to Lost Eagle yet, either.
Lots of stone out there at Grey!
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 07:59pm PT
|
You can also take a pic using a digi camera, rather than scanning. Usually a lot easier.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 12:27am PT
|
Just got home, Gray Matters went down. 3 pitches w/70m. On the 2nd pitch you're inside that thing the entire way. I almost needed a headlamp. Rack is a single set of cams from 0 C3 to #3 Camalot, I had almost a double set of HB offset stoppers plus I used several Tricams. I also dragged a new #4,5&6 and old 3.5,4 &5 Camalots plus two Big Bros that never got placed, the crack was too big.One of the most sustained and physical pitches I have ever led.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 12:30am PT
|
Oh I almost forgot, I left the Bosch at home and went with the hand drill.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 01:42am PT
|
Well done Jeff!
Bluering- I'm guessing if you were to multiply the amount of rock around Gray by about 10, you might come up with us much rock as exists throughout all of Shuteye.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 02:24am PT
|
Jeff,
SH#T I missed a wide beauty! Ok gotta get the second on that - send me the topo - Congrats! BTW i want a piece of 'Slack-Ping' given my pinging efforts so far - i'm emotionally invested (I had so much fun hucking Josh off :)
Nate,
Are you coming up for the holiday weekend? We've got some routes that need a second!
All,
What do you think of the Titanic so far? The aid is all Josh, but I'm thinking about taking the face to the cracks to the right of lighting bolt!
Although I love my job I really would rather be back at my new home - shuteye :)
kev
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 02:25am PT
|
Jeff,
Props for the hand drillin - Kick ass!
kev
BTW you're a FMFD - Fast Mother F*cking Driller
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 02:40am PT
|
Nice job on that Jeff, where was the second belay? ON the right wall or left? The right wall looked like it had a ledge at around the 300+ foot mark up the chimney.
BWhaaa! I just saw the hand drill post! Now toting a big klunky Bosch along with your rack between your Huevos would be too much in dark!
Nice send, hoping to get on that pretty quick like.
No topo needed, you explained the route perfectly with that last statement!
Great job gettin those two done this week, your on fire!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
|
kev,
Hoping to make it out for a few days - but I've got long overdue dates with a few humble firsts. So I'll have to forgo the opportunity to nab seconds on your knarly lines. :) They all look good though!
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 05:46pm PT
|
Well done fellas. Hope to get out there and hook up with some of you guys sometime.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 05:54pm PT
|
M-nut,
Well I'm there almost every weekend. This is my first weekend off after 13 weeks so. I'll be there next thursday PM....
kev
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2009 - 11:13pm PT
|
Thanks guys, I am way psyched about the new route!!! It was a total adventure plus it worked out so well. But, I will be sore from that second pitch for a few days.
Kev, when Mony and I started the route I placed two bolts on the second pitch with my Bosch. I climbed past the second bolt a little ways to check it out, down climbed, then lowered off the second bolt. Yesterday, all I did was drag the handrill up the climb along with a bunch of giant cams. I didn't use the drill or any of the big cams. There is a long runout after the second bolt. I was very happy when I got a good peice of pro in. If I had the Bosch there would be one more bolt in the middle of the runout. I want to do the climb again without all that extra weight to see how hard it feels. I may add a bolt in the future but will let you and Josh check it out first. The crux is the bit above the second bolt, after that it's just a sustained grunt.
mucci, I am happy to give you and Kev all the info about the route you want but don't want to give you more than you want. You ask and I will tell.
I have Sat, Sun & Monday off, who wants to go out there????
Jeff
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 10:38am PT
|
Wow, so quiet out at Gray yesterday. Just like it use to be.I kinda like having all you bums around.
I am changing the name of 40 Miles of Bad Road to 50 Miles of Sandy Road. Who broke the bags??
Susu, great job again on Gray Ham. I got it yesterday but hole E shite! Did I ever have some rope drag??? I used several long slings but still didn't get it right. Not sure how much weight I was pulling on those final moves getting to that anchor. Plus I didn't know it went all the way to the anchor on the second pitch of the Art of Life.Loooooooooooong pitch, I didn't have much gear or slings left for that final crack.
Jeff
|
|
socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 11:10am PT
|
Had to bag post number 700 in a thread that I routinely follow.
Glad you guys continue to have fun there. It really is a magical place.
I'm looking forward to returning myself at some point and sampling all of your new routes.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 12:27pm PT
|
Still too hot, but soon!!!
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 12:40pm PT
|
Jeff,
Nice shots! Josh and I will be up late thursday night. Are you heading up this weekend? Sorry we weren't around to provided our usual comic show.
kev
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
|
Hey Kev! Can't make it this weekend, unless the Tioga road gets closed. I have a bud from Utah that will be in the Meadows this weekend. I want to see him but it's hard staying away from Gray. If work is slow I might be able to make Thus or Fri.
Jeff
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 02:17pm PT
|
Nice pics Jeff,
Endless bumps!
Have a good week my friend and maybe we'll see you at the grey!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 04:04pm PT
|
Jeff, Freakin' great job on Gray Matters! That's inspired! This FA should have had a peanut gallery! Amazing it took only to a #3 camalot... How far is the runount? Wonder what you'll rate it, quality wise too if you do that...
Also, thanks going a ways back for nice comments from Mooch, Grahm, Mucci, Bluey, Jeff, Kev! :)
And Grrrrreat TR Kev!! Wish I had known Sylvester paid another visit tho. It's scarey good fun! Til someone gets eaten. You know a couple weeks ago, we caught an early morning sighting from the car of a beauty crossing Minarets Rd. several miles west or so of the fire station.
Jeff-Nice pics! Chiquito is it? Also, on Gray Ham's route, sounds like you went left above the 2nd roof not right? What did you think otherwise just up past the 2nd roof?
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 04:16pm PT
|
Daggone it!......sorry to say I won't make it up to The Magic Ridge this Labor Day weekend. Too many family honey-do's to finish. Totally slackin' on this end. So I won't be doing any mooching from my dear friends this time around (save for a cold beer, thanks to kev). We will be coming up the weekend of the 28th/29th of Sept. along with the ROWCC (Rim Of The World Climbing Club). Introducing Pat Brennan and crew to LE. I think its the same weekend that 'Friends Of SoYo' will be sampling the newly developed areas. Wow!......SoYo crowded?.......who wouldah thunk!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 05:18pm PT
|
Bummer! Would have been nice for us to meet you again Mooch, and to meet your Missus Mooch, and any little Mooches. Hope you get out and climb sometime over the long w/e!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 05:47pm PT
|
Mooch is preggers?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
|
susu,
Gray Matters is very hard for me to rate. Some might only call it 5.8. The second pitch is very long and very continuous. There is no 5.10 move on it, so I will call it 9+. But you know how ratings are. I tried 40 miles before Gray Ham, both 11a. I felt the crux on 40 miles was way harder then Gray Ham and Gray Ham felt like 11a to me so who knows. I hope someone climbs Gray Matters soon though and lets me know what they think. Quality is also hard to rate.That first pitch, even with the clipping, is kinda a drag. Also a bit dirty and loose, though nothing dangerous. But it is so f-ing cool that I think it is 4 out of 5 stars. Most climbers would hate it.
The runout is around 30+'. I was dragging all that extra sh#t so it felt very exciting. Without the extra drag it may not feel to bad, your hole body is inside.
Yep, photos are Chiquito.
Left? Right? Not sure what your asking? After the roof about midway on the route I followed several bolts that trended to the right. Then , when no more bolts were visable and no anchor in sight, I went straight up to a crack that ended at the anchors on the 2nd pitch of The Art of Life, right below another very nice looking bolted face. Without the rope drag the pitch would have been awsome. I need to do it again with more slings. I also think it would be nice to have a bolt next to that flairing crack, the pro there was crap.
Kev & mucci,
Thanks! Hope to hook up with ya soon but don't think this weekend will happen. Maybe the following if your out there. Get on Gray Matters and let me know what ya think.
Jeff
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 07:39pm PT
|
Mungeclimber, O No, didn't mean to start anything... no one's preggars to my knowledge!
Jeff, is that 60+ foot fall potential then or a total of 30 foot? Yikes in either case! Congrats again!
As to GHCH, sounds like you were on it to the 1st anchors to me. Just over the 2nd roof on P1, bolted face climbing trends climber's right to a crack that trends climber's right. Then there's a comfy belay ledge at rap anchors. Directly overhead, there's another section of bolted face on P2, w/ a small roof about 30 feet (?) directly up.
That flare is the one standout questionable gear placement to me, but I ended up mostly liking a blue #3 camalot there. I'll pay closer attention to that next time.
Edit: Jeff, I'm sure you knew if you were on Art of Life... John just told me AL has black bolts and the anchor a blue sling, then described how you must have trended more diagonally to the right than up.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 07:44pm PT
|
ok, thx for the clarify.
heh
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 07:48pm PT
|
Sorry susu, 60' fall potential. I will likely add a bolt but wanted to get on it again without all the extra crap.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 07:56pm PT
|
Your knott in a rush to add that bolt on GM any time soon are you?
Sounds like big fun, hopefully me and the old man can get on it this weekend.
Yeah, double length runners on the Doe line looked like it would help out alot for the leader. However, that route is something I will undoubtedly have to work up to for the lead (thanks Susu!) So as a follower I hold no stock. But man what a superpitch!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 07:59pm PT
|
Susu definitely climbs with more sack than I do.
That was a badass onsight! Sh#t, now I may have to try it with all the praise it's getting. Somebody rope-gun for me!
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 08:06pm PT
|
Old man huh? WTF you little youngster...
kev
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 08:09pm PT
|
Okay, MAYBE I would have thought about trying to lead Gray Matters if it had only a 30-foot total fall potential... ;) Just kidding. I mean even then that's too thick for my blood... Should it not be? I mean, aren't you a pinball if you do fall there? Would love to follow it tho sometime, esp. now that we know you don't need to carry all the big gear. Does look classic!
Bluering - I didn't onsight Gray Ham... John and I followed Grahm up it on his FA. Are you coming out again this w/e? You should try it; you'll like it!
Woops. new to posting... i think i posted accidentally before finishing editing... a time or two.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
|
Ha^^^
Old, sometimes wise, definitely FOO FOO!
OH and I found us some wyde old buddy! Bring the Sapporo Gold!!!!!!!!!!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2009 - 08:45pm PT
|
No worries mucci, if I add a bolt it won't be any time soon. Now go get er done!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
So................ that's what the summit looks like!
I haven't been to the top of gray yet, hoping to sail the titanic up there this weekend!
Nice pics! Can't wait for the storms to roll in on us this Autumn!
Big psych for this weekend!
Mucci
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Tioga Pass Road is closed, might end up at Gray Sun and or Mon after all.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
It's all coming together now!
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Muuahhhhahahahah!
Well if you can't hit TM you're welcome to climb eat and drink with us!
kev
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Hope we see you Jeff! We plan to be there too and may have another climber friend join us. Could mix & match? I also hope to check out High Eagle at some point. Maybe 5057. Never climbed anywhere up there yet. Any part of Shuteye should be the best place to be on a busy holiday w/e!!! Looking forward to it!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
susu, there are some very nice climbs on the ridge. I think the 2 10+/11as on 50 5.7s are 2 of the best. Grahm has several new routes there that are also good. He has a new 11a that I still haven't done. The problem with 50 5,7s is it is hard to escape the sun. Finding shade is one of the main problems with climbing on the ridge. You can start on the Talon then move to the east facing routes on High Eagle, then finish on 50 5.7s, High or Shangrila. The othr problems with the ridge are the ORVs, noise and crowds The last time I went to High Eagle I saw over 20 people there. If you avoid High Eagle and the Talon you will probably escape the crowds. Bouldering on top of the Queens Throne in the morning/early afternoon then going to 50 5.7s works. Or just go to Gray and give Wanderlust or When Dreams come true a go.
Jeff
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Thanks very much for the info! Maybe we'll be sticking around Gray afterall.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Nice pics Jeff. I love the one of the Aerie. The dead tree hadn't snapped in half yet. I loved how that tree looked before it went over. My other favorite tree is out on Grizzly Meadow on the way to Chiquito. There are some cool trees out on the ridge.
Looks like a big temp change this weekend. The ridge is going to have a high of 80 with night time lows at 50. Looks like we will start going to walls in the sun rather than hidding from them.
Shuteye's most impressive walls are South facing. With Fall temps arriving now the climbing season is really gonna be kicking in.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Yeah I'm looking forward to exploring some of the sunnier parts of the eagles quite soon!
So who's coming up this weekend?
kev
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Good point about the weather! Already wishing we could have more time than 3 days!
When's hunting season begin?
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Wait, can hunt tourons up there? That would rock.
Susu, you guys should leave thursday pm....We're gonna be lonely Thursday night!
kev
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Call john and tell him that! Seriously! It's going to be mayhem around the city anyway w/the bridge closure...
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Ok will do!
kev
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Grahm,
How's the smoke up there today?
kev
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
I'll give you the report....
It's light, with a hint of blueberry.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
Mooch is preggers?
HHHHAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!
Grahm-
Do me a "flavor" (blueberry fershur).....could you sling me a topo of Chiquito? Purtee pleezzzzz.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Thanks Grahm, that tree was cool.Cooler temps will be nice!
Here's another cool one
Sounds like Tioga Road will be closed for the weekend. If so, I will be out there for sure Sun, Sat if I can get out of work. May camp out Sun night if anyone will be around? Can anybody stay and climb Mon?
Jeff
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
Jeff,
Josh and I WILL be there Monday. Why don't we go finish Slack-Ping???
kev
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
I'm bringing the full arsenal of hooks!
And...........
The Reebok's!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
^^^^AHHHHH..............
Looks like it's going down!
-Earplugs- check
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Smoke hasn't really been bad down here. Isn't that what vaporizers are for? I can see it accumalate down in the valleys but the ridge has been really non smokey. Guess the wind is blowing a different way.
Mucci - whats your email? I can recommend a hit list for Chiquito for ya if you let me know what grades your looking for.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
Just to get some folks psyched for the weekend!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
O I'm there. I can't sleep I'm so there!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Grahm, I think Mooch was asken for the topos of Chiquito, but I'm sure mucci wouldn't mind getting them. Before I met mucci I confused him with Mooch also.
Where are you going this weekend?
Jeff
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Dooh! Thanks Jeff. Mooch wants topos...forget it! Just kidding. Mucci those steaks are lookin delish.
I have been workin on a secret crag the last few weeks. I am calling it the Magic Wall. I have 4 more to do then I'll spill the beans. Its a little 25 meter wall but packed with 12 routes of super high quality from 10's to 12's. After working on that on Saturday we are heading out to Big Sleep to climb Gumby's Crystal Highway all 900 feet by moon light.
Get your full moon madness on this weekend!
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
"Sounds like Tioga Road will be closed for the weekend. If so..."
Tioga will be closed through Labor Day. From Crane Flat to White Wolf.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Hope all had a great Labor Day! We put up 4 new routes and one of them is 1,000 feet long! Put up on lead by full moon light. Details coming soon.
Ok, I am way behind on posting up some pics so here goes...
Ross on War Eagle 12d, Aerie
Ross crankin through the crux
Climbing on Half Pipe Dreams 10b, 50 5.7's Wall
Higher on the route
This is what happens when Matt borrows my camera
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Grey Ham and Chicken Heads on Grey Eagle was an interesting FA for me. Its 700 feet long and I worked it from the top down after my partner had to bail on me and I was by myself. I spent one day rapping down it and rope soloing each pitch to figure out the best line and bolt placements. The following weekend John and Sue graciously volunteered to join me for the FA attempt.
After some good reviews of the first pitch on the taco I thought it would be cool to post up a mini fa trip report and route description so anyone can go do it.
11a - Grey Ham And Chicken Heads - Bring stoppers, double cams up to number 2 and one number 3. Lots of long slings.
P1: 5.11a - 9 bolts, full rack, chain anchor - Full 60m - Scramble up a short block to a bolt. Climb up the thin crack in a dihedral. Move right through 2 bolts on the slab to get under the roof. Climb over the roofs using 2 bolts and then follow the excellent crack up to a roof. Pull the roof with a bolt on the lip. Clip 3 more bolts as you traverse right across knobs. Climb the right trending seams on gear to a good ledge. Bring every long sling you have to reduce rope drag especially on the first half.
P2: 10b - 13 bolts, slings, chain anchor - 50m - Climb straight up the face on small knobs to a roof. Crank over the roof and follow amazing chicken heads. Weave left following bolts through never ending knobs to the anchor on the left side of a good ledge.
P3: 5.9 - 9 bolts, gear to 2” singles, chain anchor - 50m - Follow the ledge right for 10 feet then head straight up the wall to discontinuous seams and gear placements. Clip two bolts then get a red alien in the horizontal seam. Blast up small knobs and bolts. Trend left at the top and finish in a two person pocket. Most parties will rappel back to the ground here.
P4. 5.7 - Gear to 3”, slings, webbing anchor - 30m - Head right up a water groove and to the 10 foot pine tree. Slings and biners around the tree offer a belay or rap option. Optional finish: Head straight up out of the pocket on knobs to the top of the dome.
P5 easy 5th class to the top.
FA Grahm, John and Sue 8-09
Heres a shot showing locations of the anchors
For a slide show of the FA go here: http://s625.photobucket.com/albums/tt336/sierraclimber1/8-08-09%20FA%20Grey%20Ham%20and%20Chicken%20Heads/?albumview=slideshow
Non flash version: http://s625.photobucket.com/albums/tt336/sierraclimber1/8-08-09%20FA%20Grey%20Ham%20and%20Chicken%20Heads/
A few shots from the group
Gunning it after placing a 3 in the flared crack
Crankin over one of the roofs. A tricky knob sequence gets you over the roof.
Sue coming up to the first anchor.
Looking at the upper half of pitch 2
Ok, so I was super gripped and out of gear. As a last resort I busted out the pink panties and slung a chicken head for pro. Check the slide show for Johns reaction upon dicovering the "gear". Hey, it was the FA so I had to pull out all the stops.
Chillin at the anchor of pitch 3
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Thanks for the pics Grahm!
John and Sue are nice folks, they were fun to climb with this weekend.I Didn't get anything new done but several people climbed a few of my routes and I theirs. Cragen in the shade at The Gray!!!! It's about time some of those lines had a second.
Gray Matters, still needs a second. Mucci, Kev???
Sounds like you had a fun night and day out at the pass.
Jeff
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
A typical early start for the Gray crew
The newest member of the Gray Crew..... Baloo
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Here's one the boys stole from me....bastards!!!
It's still a little loose and dirty but with all the traffic Gray sees it will clean up and be classic! Well at least the 1st pitch. Nice lead John!! They call it the Titanic, I think. I call it..... The Hurler.
It was nice to have folks climb a few of my routes!!!
Here's mucci on When Dreams Come True
And Albert and Dan on Dream Within a Dream
Here's Albert and Dan enjoying the classic Captain Wing Feather
A shot of the Great Depression. Albert and Dan are on Captain Wing Feather. Also in view are The Hellion 11a, Gray Matters 9+ and Cage Match 10a/b
Another great weekend with those folks was had!!!!!!!!!!!
Jeff
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
Wow Nice pix Jeff!
Big fun was had this weekend, Crystal Corner, Dream Within, When Dreams come True, WANDERLUST...... All were fantastic, Perfect climbing!
Thank God we had the Rope guns out there to make it happen!
Oh and I thought Hurling after a route gave it Character?
I did my best to bounce back....HA!
Good to see where all of the routes go now, So no more confusion.
Not to mention the great dinner party!
one of the best times I have had there yet!
I will get my pics together and post some up.
Cheers,
Mucci
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Killer climbing, cold beer, tasty food and great folks! What more can ya ask for?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Nice shots Jeff! Looks like fun was had by all. Love the crack of almost noon shot. "Captain Wing Feather" perfect...
I think this page is the most photo heavy yet!
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
Here are a few from the weekend.
John on the superb "When dreams come true"
Kev on the 1st pitch of "Dream within a Dream" - Great climbing on this one!
Here I am seconding Jeff's lead of "Crystal Corner" - Stellar corner after the bonus wide start!
The Awesome "Wanderlust"
John leading "When dreams come true" - 195 feet of killer Crack to a sweet belay!
Tork working a variation to one of his routes, Sweet and steep (from a weekend prior)
Big Kev at the "Captains Quarters" Cave belay on one of the upper pitches of the Titanic.- 15 feet deep, 20 feet high, 5 feet wide!
Kev on a hook during the most exhilarating bolt placement I have witnessed, complete with a swarm of angry yellow jackets!
Well Hope everyone had a great weekend and enjoyed the full moon (Grahm)!
Cheers,
Mucci
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Thanks Mucci, nice pics! Love the captains Quarters.
Soon
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
That looks badass!!!! Nice job, guys.
|
|
Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
|
|
man, you need a better dog, or a suitable sidearm, that camp looks dangerous!
Time of Death, 11:18 am.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Ya Sprock Doc, we almost lost the Kev man. Had to make a dash for safty. Too bad kitties like to chase things that run. It was close!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
We had a great time w/everyone this w/e - Tork, Mucci, Kev, and later meeting Albert and Dan. Was alot of fun cragging and checking out the first pitches of Tork, Kev & Mucci, and John's lines on Gray. So many potentially classic, multi-star-able first pitches!
Here, photos of Tork on the 2nd pitch of Cage Match:
Going around the roof:
The offwidth has some great possible stances outside of it as TORK shows here:
Nearing the finish of the 2nd pitch:
So many great photos Mucci, Jeff and Grahm! The one of Kev on the Captain's Quarters Cave belay is so good!
Hope to see y'all out there again soon!
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
As usual it was a blast!
If I had my trusty belay knife with me we would have had the kitty for dinner!
kev
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Another shot of Mucci at the roof of When Dreams Come True
And Kev on The Titanic
|
|
Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
|
|
This is the best thread ever, I hope it NEVER dies.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
Trust me, Roxy, it won't...
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Kev - Heres that pic we got of you hand drilling over at Beagles Nest...
My bud Ross is coming up this weekend. Talk about rig envy...
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2009 - 09:01am PT
|
Yup, nice rig! Exceptional photos too of Ross on the new route, Grahm!
Anyone going to Shuteye this w/e? We may have to tear ourselves away from Shuteye for one w/e more somewhere else... but are not convinced!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2009 - 09:16am PT
|
Cage match -cool, Susu!
also Titanic.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2009 - 01:00pm PT
|
BIG RIG ENVY! That things sweet!
kev
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
|
I promised a crew of SF pad people a tour of some bouldering on Saturday. Some of them crank double digits so it should be interesting. The plan is to boulder around High Eagle on Saturday and then in the afternoon do some rope climbing. Ross is close on War Eagle so maybe a stop at Aerie and then maybe finish up at 50 5.7's?
Jeremy - We rapped the route but I will post up a tr of the whole adventure as soon as I get a chance.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
|
What's the make of that sweet Red Rig?
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2009 - 04:10am PT
|
So sad - where were you when I needed a partner?
Sadly my ass is at work tomorrow... :(
kev
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2009 - 05:33pm PT
|
Anyone going to Shuteye this w/e?
Nah, not this weekend...cycling in the High Sierra Fall Century over by Crowley/Mammoth on Saturday. However (coma) we'll be over at Chiquito on the 26th and then LE on the 27th. 'Course, I have seperate plans with Lost Boys later in that month.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2009 - 10:05am PT
|
How can I start a work week without a single Shuteye pic, story, slander...anyone????
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2009 - 11:53am PT
|
"A workweek?"
At least you're outside!
kev
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2009 - 12:17pm PT
|
Kev, how can I compare jobs, I don't know what you do.
Now get back to work, slacker!
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
|
Kev got his degree in Slurpee management, currently he dispenses those tasty sub zero treats at the local 7-eleven.
Lots of math involved in making a perfect batch of Slurpee. The wild cherry flavor has been difficult for the slush master due to it's complicated chemistry of blending 2 liquids together, both of which do NOT include Alchohol!
Currently he is working on a black project which is aimed at blending FOO FOO and Sparks into a tasty slurpee flavor.
Clandestine would be the word to describe the KEv.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2009 - 02:11pm PT
|
Hey guys, When I was up at Lost Eagle last month, I bumped into a couple guys and their families in an older white sports mobile. They said they had been doing some new routing over at Chiquito....11ish stuff, steep and long. Is this any of you guys? I think they were brian and brad or something like that. Anybody know who these dudes are and where they are from. Just curious to put a face(s) with a name. See you around....
Scott
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2009 - 02:55pm PT
|
micro,
I think you said Brian and Brent. Brent Webster I presume.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2009 - 03:24pm PT
|
Tork - John & I took a break in Tuolomne last w/e. Don't think anyone was at Gray last w/e since you weren't there, and Kev & Mucci weren't either. Plan to head up this w/e tho, hopefully bringing a few friends. Don't be surprised if you see your routes getting more traffic! Hopefully see you there too!
Micronut - That may have been the time John, Mucci, Kev and I were at LE one afternoon thru evening, but we had not been climbing Chiquito. Met the same fellow - Brent that w/e. Don't know but wonder if Brent's ST name is socalbolter, the one who nabbed this thread's 700th post? We thought he was with you at that lower site. I'm sorry if I'm mixing up names/faces. Were you camping there w/family or just there for the day?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
|
Hey Sue! Hope you and John had fun in TM. What did you do? Mony and I went backpacking. Beautiful trip but very windy and cold, still had a good time though. Not sure about this weekend yet but good chance we will be at Gray. I also want to get over to Chiquito and finish a route Mony and I started the weekend we first met you all. That campsite on top of Chiquito is sweet. Would miss not hanging by the fire with the Gray Crew though.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2009 - 04:12pm PT
|
We scanned for your car at the busiest trailheads up at TM but never saw it. Glad you guys had a nice trip, but yeah, it was kind of cool! Finally checked out Phobos... sort a... it rained just before we got started. Luckily, there are cool caves at the base for cover. Tried to wait it out but realized the day was wasting, so cragged at Low Profile. Next morning kept running into old climbing buds, and after a whole season of tucking away up at Shuteye, had some catching up to do. Later ended up at Olmstead for more cragging. Still managed to get worked from only a few one pitch wonders all w/e!
Maybe we'll check out Chiquito one of these days too as the weather cools more and more. Good camping is what really lures me.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2009 - 10:15pm PT
|
Nothing like hiking in and setting up camp right under your back country project wall. ;-)
|
|
Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
|
|
|
Sep 20, 2009 - 06:46pm PT
|
wow, some crazy ass freaks, man!
kaiser approved
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2009 - 01:19am PT
|
Damn, Big fun was had there!
Nice angle of the right side of Gray......HMMMMM
end of october for me, it's like torture having this thread in view.....
Bump!
Mucci
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2009 - 02:25am PT
|
This one's great, Grahm!
mucci-
That's the classic geology textbook exfoliation on the north side of High Eagle, not Gray...
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2009 - 02:35am PT
|
Ah thanks for the word, I have been somewhat limited in my ventures.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2009 - 02:38am PT
|
Alas, me too.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
|
Nate-
About that Chiquito topo......throw an old fart a walker! Waiting.....
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
|
Haven't forgotten you, mooch. I've actually been working on it the last few days and it's about 95% complete...
(whew)
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2009 - 12:47am PT
|
Had another great weekend out at Gray. Met and climbed with a few new folks. Also good times around the campfire! Still, it wasn't the same without the Mucci man and the Kevster!!
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
|
Thanks Nater! Hoping to get it before Friday. Pat Brennan and crew were hoping to get a peek at it. Will be at Soda Springs CG on Friday afternoon, climb Chiquito on Saturday with ROWCC crew and then LE on Sunday.
Not to pressure you any further but did you get to finish up the Gold Buttress topo for LE?
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
|
Shuteye....
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
|
Ridge.....
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2009 - 05:57pm PT
|
ROCKS!!!!!!!!
HaHAHAAHAA!!! Snagged the 800th post! :P
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2009 - 07:30pm PT
|
Jeff,
No need to worry - my butts back this weekend.
kev
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2009 - 07:44pm PT
|
Cool moves Mooch! Way to mooch the 800th post! :)
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2009 - 07:46pm PT
|
Hey I thought I was the only MOOOCH around here!
Man I am going through Shuteye Withdrawal!
Make sure to keep me up-to-date Peeps!
Mucci
|
|
Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
|
|
|
Sep 22, 2009 - 08:48pm PT
|
you guys keep bragin, im a gonna gps yo jeep,
say i won't!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 23, 2009 - 02:08am PT
|
Well, Mucci, we brought some buddies to Shuteye last weekend, but missed you and Kev for sure! Jeff showed up Saturday noticing how quiet it was without you guys. Too true!~
Had a great time, still, climbed again at the base of Gray, and John and Jeff both put up routes in that same area btw Dream within a Dream and Wanderlust. BTW, Great job, Mucci, on Wanderlust! It's no gimmee...
Weather has been perfect. Restless bears must be getting into the bee honey, tho, with all the hungry/agro bees at camp...
Heading out there again this w/e but wonder if there will be a rumored gathering of So Yo climbers at the Gray campground, which we haven't heard any more about.... has anyone else?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Sep 23, 2009 - 10:17am PT
|
Hey Sue!
Albert sent me an e-mail, 25-27 they will be at Gray. Sounds like fun but not sure how it's gonna work for parking. I might get out for a day or two if I'm luckey. Might be doin a bit of walking though.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Sep 23, 2009 - 04:59pm PT
|
This mooch is OG.....gangstah yo!
Isn't "Mucci" announciated ..... "Moo-see"??
Teehee
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Sep 23, 2009 - 07:55pm PT
|
WOW 25-27! Is that a herd, a gaggle, a school, a what?
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Sep 23, 2009 - 08:14pm PT
|
Oh man 25 peeps in the gray hood?
Be sure to mention the cadillac of suites at gray, you know the one down the hill a wayz!
It could turn into another Kevfest, In which case most of the crowd will disperse when Tollhouse gets the saw out!
New route names:
"Graypression" (all rights reserved)!
"Go all Tollhouse on it!" (kev may have dibs on this one)!
"Kankle of Godar" Mandatory that this one gets done this season!
"Late Start" Mandatory if hanging around Gray, with all of that food, hydrabeer, adult beverages etc...
Damn I miss that stone!
Have fun Suckers!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Sep 23, 2009 - 08:21pm PT
|
Tollhouse is a blast, that dude is the party!!!!
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Sep 23, 2009 - 09:05pm PT
|
"hydrabeer" - classic :)
|
|
Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
|
|
|
Sep 23, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
|
let me trundle those death blocks,
say i won't...
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 23, 2009 - 09:29pm PT
|
Uh, you do know that 25-27 are dates, right guys? Friday thru Sunday.
Sarcasm?
uh-oh, mooch is lapsing into gangsta speak again...
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Sep 23, 2009 - 10:11pm PT
|
Oops! Thanks Nate! Yeah, I meant the 25th - 27th.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Sep 23, 2009 - 10:14pm PT
|
I think kev was shaking in his boots with the thought of having to maintain the" king of the night cap" position, which he has held for the past 4 months, away from 25 peeps!
Have no fear, just local HERe!
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Sep 24, 2009 - 05:40pm PT
|
Wow! 'Dah Ridge' will be rockin' this weekend. Hoards at Gray, crowds at "Banana Bump", losing it at LE!! What next?
A bunch of us will be at Soda Spings CG. Swing by if the "backcountry" livin' gets to be too much for you all up at the "luxury suite".
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 24, 2009 - 07:12pm PT
|
I thought the picture below was going to be the most people I'd ever see at Gray. Not a good photo but it does document the fact that there were actually 4 people last weekend on 3 routes among 6 in close proximity at Gray Eagle. Pictured right to left are John, Colin, Alex, Jeff, plus two others not visible. I'm thinking the Gray Eagle area will absorb a crowd all too well. Parking & camping are another story, but looking forward to meeting folks anyhow! Hope our paths cross w/the OG & gang's too!
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Sep 24, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
|
I've heard rumors of KEGS.....
kev
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Sep 25, 2009 - 12:03pm PT
|
KEGS I say bitches, YO!
See everyone around 6PM...
kev
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 25, 2009 - 03:35pm PT
|
Reposting photos of Jeff on Cage Match since the others were inadvertently deleted when reorganized.
Here he is going around the roof at the start of P2.
Here Jeff takes advantage of a nice stance, making it all look so easy - sure would have been nice to realize that stance was there while on the FA.
Jeff near top of P2
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2009 - 10:37am PT
|
Grey Party Cru -
DAMN!!! I could literally hear your conversations while we were climbing on the "hot griddle", formerly known as Chiquito Dome, on Saturday. Swear I heard susu say something like, "Would you put down that swine water Kev and climb!"
;)
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
|
So what route did you cook on, mooch? Nothing like the smell of burnt stealth rubber and fried slabbage in the mornin'! Any critters eat thru your packs at the base, like they did mine?
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2009 - 01:59pm PT
|
Sounds like a typical outing with the FOO FOO master!
Mooch, how was the Chi Chi Dome?
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2009 - 02:44pm PT
|
Wasn't me I - I was at Red where we did some new classics such as Drink Till You Stink (5.8) (along with the Fart Till You Shart variation 5.9), and Smoke Till You Choke (5.10a/b) , were done...
kev
|
|
sneville
climber
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2009 - 03:10pm PT
|
Kev,
That is a great name for the variation. I love it. Fart till you shart. I know the feeling oh too well. Don't forget about Wham Bam Thankyou Jam (5.9++). Wish you were there mucci. It was a fun time meeting and drinking with everyone. Kev I am working on the topos and will send them your way.
Sean
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2009 - 03:27pm PT
|
Very nice Gentleman!
Doing the old Mucci proud!
I do believe the names reveal something almost sacred. A standard to reach, earned only by the swilling of copious amounts of Foo Foo!
Pictures or I will kill all of you!
|
|
sneville
climber
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2009 - 03:32pm PT
|
Mucci,
Matt has the pictures and should get them up hopefully this week. There was a lot of drinking but the gold medals go to Kev and Albert who with determination and natural ability finished off 1/5 of jack by themselves on friday night and still climbed on sat.
Sean
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2009 - 05:47pm PT
|
Nate/Kev -
Got to the base of "Banana Bump" around 9:30AM and the temps were already climbing. Pat and Lori got on 'Jigsaw Puzzle' (5.8R) while Deb and I got on 'Not Advertised' (5.9.......which in my opinion was NOT 5.9 but rather 5.8). Hopped on our route first and got to the belay in no time so I could take photos of Pat on the runout first pitch (not to say the 2nd pitch isn't....2 bolts and one piece of pro in 190'!). The Master himself literally stood up on the crux, crossed his arms, scratched his arse, adjusted his ball cap and pressed on......with 30' of runout behind him! Deb has my camera (DAMN!!) but I'll post up photos around Thursday. Yep, it was hot, hot, HOT!!! Nearly threw up due to heat exhaustion. Ran out of water too! Could have used some ice cold FOO FOO to remedy that issue!! WHERE WERE YOU KEV?!?!?
Love the 'Fart Till You Shart' route name. BASTARDS!! ;)
Oh, and for what its worth, Deb and I polished off FOUR bottles of wine in 24 hours (Riesling, Sangiovese, Cab Sauv and Zin). Yes, my climbing sucked the next day!! Barely made it up 'Burrito Bandito'.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2009 - 07:24pm PT
|
Just got back! Missed ya, Mucci, and the OG Mooch and gang! Wish we could have made it to the LE pools, but had projects waiting and only two days. This was prolly the last weekend this year it would be hot enough to want to swim.
Had a great weekend meeting new people! Thoroughly enjoyed the raucous camp fire circle Saturday with Sean, Kev, Matt, Rachel, Georgia & Jeff, and then a mellower circle last night with Jeff & Mony, Albert, Dan.
Only managed to snap a couple of photos all w/e, here of Jeff on his newly completed line on Gray.
Saturday John and I got busy on a central line in the Great Depression, which near as we can tell is an FA, tho seems unbelievable bc of it's obviousness from ground perspective at least of P1. Took the central crack that lands at the lowest rapp anchor in the GD, went thru a small roof directly above, switched to the right crack and jammed to a ledge, next a chimney w/chockstone belay. Then climbed a hand crack towards two roofs, cut right into the center of the upper roof to top-out. The last two pitches were knob climbing. The hardest move was prolly 5.9 w/ many sections of 5.Fun (5.3 to 5.8ish). O yeah, the uppermost pitches are just like LE's knob bands!
Yesterday John added a very cool 2nd pitch to Escher's which I loved seconding! Will work to see if this climb wants to take us to the top! Mostly 5.8-9 so far w/a couple moves of 5.10b/c? Just doesn't seem right rating a climb before doing it more than a couple times.
Fall came fast, so better git on out there again to beat the white stuff!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2009 - 11:36pm PT
|
Sorry I missed everyone out there. I had to head down to LA. Yuck
I tried beating the white stuff but it snowed on me today! I was at 7,800 feet. It hailed and snowed sporadically through out the day but not enough to actually make the rock wet. So I was able to roll with it and got 5 new routes cleaned and ready for FA's next time.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2009 - 12:12am PT
|
Holy sheep shite, not the white stuff! Didn't really expect snow already! Were you at the crag yet to be revealed, Grahm? Someone mused this weekend where that might be, and a snowy elevation fits that guess. What's the deal... we hear from Mooch it was crazy hot at the banana bump, only to be snowing high on the rigde a couple days later if that's where it snowed? Is this wild range of temps normal for the area?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2009 - 11:45am PT
|
Yup, its the new spot called the "Magic Wall" Now that all the work is done there are 16 routes ranging from 5.9 to 12a. Gear, Mixed and Bolted lines. I am thinking of having an unveiling party for the wall since only a small handful of people have ever even seen it. Its hard to find so I would be happy to be tour guide. You and John interested? Anyone else? I'll post up some pics if your interested and we can pick a day.
As far as the weather goes this is the biggest change in temps I have seen. From wicked hot to snow is just nuts. Looks like we pop back up to 80 then down to high 60's on Sunday and then back up to 80! Its all over the place. Last year I climbed on the ridge until late November and then got shut down by a big snow. We'll see what happens this year.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2009 - 02:37pm PT
|
Grahm, Yes. A tour ~ and party ~ sounds great! We'll check it out. Will our car make it? This Saturday we've got to head back to Gray, tho. Had hopes to see Escher's through. Sunday, w/snow/rain predicted, we may be up in the air. Since these weather extremes are our of the ordinary, won't write-off Shuteye for the year yet.
Well Gholleee Mooch, sounds like good times this last w/e! Looking forward to some photos.
Kev, Sean, Matt, where's your photos? Those routes looked sweet from top of the Great Depression!
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2009 - 03:37pm PT
|
Susu,
We only had one camera - Matt's, so it may be a while.
Enjoy the new stuff with Grambo!
kev
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
Grahm,
Pics, I want to see pics!
Jeff,
Get off the Nose and post up some pics from last weekend!
kev
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Weather looks perfect for October 10,11 There is a great campsite at the parking area. We could plan on one day or two days climbing there. Let me know if your up for just one day.
There is one driving crux getting up to the lake that is equivalent to getting up to the High Eagle parking spot. I can shuttle someone in if their car can’t make it. Or you can park at the crux part and walk in. Takes an extra 15 minutes.
The Magic Wall faces the sun all day so it will be great out there. All the routes are easy to get to and close together. All routes are 25m or less. This wall has one of the highest concentrations of quality shorter routes in Shuteye. Complimentary topos will be supplied.
There will be an onsight challenge for the Shuteye survivors that show up. I am crafting an immunity necklace made from abandoned gear from all over the ridge. Whom ever onsights the most routes at the Magic Wall wins the necklace at the climbers council that night and will be immune from slander. Also while wearing the necklace any time of the year you have the right to pick the routes to be climbed and your partner must agree. The immunity necklace will be back up for grabs at the next Shuteye challenge.
Beer, grilling and campfire Saturday night sound good?
Pics of the necklace will be posted next week.
Route list:
5.9 - Top rope 11 - 4 bolts 10 - 1 bolt, gear to 4” 10d - 4 bolts, gear to 2” 10c - Hocus Pocus Arete - 7 bolts 11a - Slight Of Hand - 8 bolts 11c - Wide Crack to hand jam crack 11a - Trickster - 4 bolts, gear to 3” 10b - House Of Cards - 9 bolts 12a - Illusionist - 9 bolts 10b - Alacazam - 6 bolts, gear to 1” 11d - Houdini - 7 bolts 11d - Whirlin Merlin - 4 bolts, gear to 3” 11a - Smoke and Mirrors - Gear to 4” 11a - Black Magic - Gear to 4” 5.9+ - Aces Straights and Flushes - 2 bolts, Gear to 3”
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Just where I suspected, Grahm. Bushwhacked below that baby 3 years ago.
Sent these pics to Rog just a few weeks ago and got him drooling. But of course you beat us to it.
Taller than I remember, too. And great rock, of course. Shuteye seldom disappoints!
Have you climbed the 5.11 layback/uc crack at HD Dome? Neat feature.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
"I am crafting an immunity necklace made from abandoned gear from all over the ridge. Whom ever onsights the most routes at the Magic Wall wins the necklace at the climbers council that night and will be immune from slander. Also while wearing the necklace any time of the year you have the right to pick the routes to be climbed and your partner must agree."
Hahahah - that's friggin awesome! I need that thing since I am very slanderous.
kev
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Nice Nate!
Well, it does help that it only takes me 45 minutes to get there. Did you see the killer bouldering up behind the walls too? Ya, that crack at HD is sweet.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
I did not see the bouldering above. I think my eyes were filled with sweat after all the thrashing.
Jeff been out there with you yet? He's logged quite a few days in that neck of the woods, right Tork?
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
I love the rock out there at Shuteye. Very cool looking place Graham!!!! Nice looking routes too.
I've only been once, I need to make it out there more. Maybe next year.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Wow! Nice photos Grahm & Nate! Guess everyone's been out climbing since the last posts?! Went to Shuteye this w/e and woke to snow Sunday at the Gray Eagle camp. Skid-daddled to Yosemite to find rain. Grahm, will try to gather forces and see if we can make it this w/e!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Sorry to hear that Sue! Bad weather sucks...
Saturday was good though and got the FA on 5 new ones. You guys are going to love the 5.11 cracks and 5.10 mixed routes. Weather looks warmer and great for this weekend. We scouted some sweet camping spots with fire rings ready to go too.
I'll post up more details soon.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
Nice work out there....We thought about heading up there but went to the Valley instead and got benighted on Royal Arches. Good times. That Magic wall looks stellar.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Hey Sue, what happened to Saterday? Anybody else make it out there.We were in the snow on Saterday night and Sunday as well.
Saterday morning
Kev, I am off the big stone but I did not have my camera last weekend, noooooo pics. Here's one from this week
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
wow Tork, full trip report forthcoming?
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Nice photos, Jeff! Would you take us next time?! Just kidding, kind of...
Uhhh, were you for hire on the nose or was this purely fun? Mony go w/you? Hope to see a full trip report!
We were the only ones at the Gray camp Fri late to Sun early a.m. It was gorgeous Saturday, but definitely long johns weather in the shade and puffy jacket weather nights.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Susu, any progress on Escher's?
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Jeff, Yup. Thanks for asking. Started at the usual hour, ahem, thanks to me. John led p1, me p2. I did find the climbing hard after the halfway point on P2. It's a little height dependent, but do-able. Awesome pitch... John led a 3rd pitch as hoped by taking the right-leaning arch 1/2-way to some more really fun all natural climbing diagonaling back to the left. We lowered at what would be the start of p4 before it got dark bc it was soooo cold. After this weekend, it's hard to imagine it's going to be warm up there again until next year.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
With all that south facing rock throughout most of Shuteye, it should be warm enough to climb for a little while yet. Some of the guys climbed at LE on Dec. 2nd two years ago. Ya just never know.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
All,
I've got the pics from 2 weeks ago - will post tomorrow.
Jeff,
Did my supertaco msg get to you?
kev
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Awesome Jeff! Thats a trip the client won't ever forget. Hope they pulled their own weight and you didn't have to do everything.
Micro your welcome to come up and check out the Magic Wall this weekend.
Heres a pic of the "Immunity Necklace" hehe
Directions: Drive up Beasore Road past Central Camp Road a few minutes to the summit.There is a 4 way intersection. Turn right. There is a permanent bathroom and parking lot on the corner. Follow the dirt road a short ways to a fork. 6S26X is on the left and 6S62X is marked on the right. Take the right and follow back a few minutes to where the road turns into a steeper rocky wash.
Meet here at 8:30am Saturday if you want to be shuttled in with the jeep. Otherwise pick your way up the road and after a few hundred feet it mellows out. 4 wheel drive recommended. Follow the road a short ways to the shore of the lake. Just before the shore there are three large campsites in the trees with fire rings. This is where you can camp Friday night or Saturday night if you like.
Weather looks perfect. Sunny and in the low 70's up there.
The parking spot for the hike up to the crag is across the dry lake bed. So far I think Mike and family and Kent and friend are coming. Sue? Anyone else committing?
|
|
sneville
climber
|
|
Here are the photos from Red. Sorry for the delay.
Kev on the first pitch of "Drink Till You Stink" the upper pitches are the flakes above kev
Matt on the upper flakes(3rd pitch of "Drink Till You Stink")
Matt on the 1st pitch FA of "Smoke Till You Choke". Nice crack to technical slab
Side view of "Wham Bam Thankyou Jam"
Me on the FA of "Wham Bam Thankyou Jam"Matt on WBTYJ2nd Pitch of WBTYJ
Matt on the 5.9++ 2nd pitch(200ft) of WBTYJ
Kev too hung over to climb but able to be a great belayer
Nice to meet everyone and thanks for the good times. Hopefully I can make it up there this weekend to finish some stuff.
Sean
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Grahm, Some of that gear looks familiar... Hah! John says if you paint it yellow, looks like Kev's rack. :) So..., Saturday sounds fun! Not absolutely sure I can tear John away from Escher's, but will try!
Sean, Nice pictures! Jess coming this w/e too, hopefully? Yeah... cool looking routes!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Ha! Good one Sue, that made me laugh. Poor Kev...
What ever you guys want to do is cool, no worries. You could also drive over to Greys Sat night for Sunday sending. Or we could switch Magic Wall to Sunday so your closer to home for the Sunday evening drive?
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
Those routes on Red look pretty sweet!!! Thanks for the pics.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
Looks like I'm off to the valley to do some new stuff. I'm trying to convince my buddy to go to Grey but I may not be able to....
On a side note the weather looks friggin awsome this weekend!!!
kev
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Grahm, You'd think we could figure this out pretty-quickly, but not so! I really appreciate your offer... and do think it would work out much better for us to come by sometime Sunday to check out the crag. Just still have to get a hold of John, whose week has been insanely non-stop busy..., in order to answer. Please don't switch around your plans for us... Altho the necklace, I'd have thought would be the clincher for John. He thinks that gear looks perfectly good. :)
Kev, Is Drc here?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Hey Kev, I did get your message. Sorry for the lack of a reply.
Nate, Iv'e been to a few places out by the lake with the Andersons but Grahms new wall doesn't seem familiar.
Susu, nice job on Escher's! Sounds like it's all falling into place.
You and John would love the Nose. Not to sure about a trip report.
Grahm and Susu, the Nose was all for fun, did it with my buddy Art. Although, I think he should pay me to climb with him! Just kidding Art.
As far as the new wall, I have to work on Sat, might be able to make Sunday though.
Sean, thanks for the photos of Red, looks like you guys found a few good lines.
Jeff
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
I can't believe there are no dead soldiers in that pic of kev laying down. Very disturbing!
Hope you all enjoy the end of the season, just hoping I can make it out one more time.
Peace
Mucci
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Ok, I heard back from some others that said Sunday would be better for them too. So its official, Sunday for the Magic Wall unveiling. Meet at 8:30am same spot as in the previous post.
I will get there early to do a little road improvement. If you get there late look for our vehicles along the lake bed and hike up the hill. Trend right under some smaller crags to get to the Magic Wall. Approach time 25 minutes going up and coming back 15 minutes. There is a climbers trail already cut. I will try to add some more cairns to the trail too. Best to get there on time so you don't get lost ;-)
Grahm
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
As always, getting lost is half the fun of climbing in SoYo. Actually, that's how I first came across this Magic wall. :)
Oh, the historian in me wants to know from where specifically all that old gear came?
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Totally, really curious where that gear came from too! May be some good hidden stories in that pro..., may shed any light on unrecorded ascents...
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
I know some undoubtedly came from Crocodile Rock...
Any from Chiquito?
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Sean, Are you getting out to Shuteye this w/e?
Kev, Did you tell your pal that his van might actually make it the entire way to camp, and if not, prolly to w/in an 1/8th of a mile to park on flat ground in a decent clearing w/no one else around? And that beer grows on trees there?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
He or she alone who earns the right to wear the Shuteye immunity necklace will be told the lore of whence it came...
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Oct 13, 2009 - 10:57am PT
|
Where were all of you?
I only did 8 routes at the Magic wall but they were all very good. There was even a bit of wide to be had. Glad to see Grahmy hitting the cracks. With a little work on his technigue, with his strength, Grahm will be tearing up the cracks. I see The Nose in his future!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 13, 2009 - 11:36am PT
|
Well, we know we missed out but were due for a little break. So, "Only 8" routes, hmmm?! Sounds to me like a contender for the illustrious immunity necklace. Who won? Hear any sacred history of the charms on it?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Oct 13, 2009 - 11:52am PT
|
Hey Susu!
Brent won with 12 or 13 and Kent came in a close second with 1 less climb. Everready Bunnies or what! I lost steam when I took a slip at the start of one of the climbs. Now I can never get the onsight of that one. I was devistated!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Oct 13, 2009 - 12:12pm PT
|
Thanks Jeff! Glad you guys made it out. Humbling to have my 5.11 cracks down rated to 10's. Your the crack master Mr. arm bar! It felt good to whip onto some gear.
I'll post up a full spray down of the days events with pics later. Summary - 7 Shuteye Survivors showed and a battle royale for the necklace ensued.
After final count Brent and Kent actually tied with 12 routes onsighted each. The tie breaker was Brent sent 2 harder climbs so we didn't have to go into sudden death to decide the winner.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 13, 2009 - 04:40pm PT
|
Ahh Jeff, too funny - Am sure you did awesomely as always. Yikes, all sound like energizer bunnies! Must have been good hearing the feedback on the routes... Any interesting info to post on the necklace gear?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Oct 13, 2009 - 10:21pm PT
|
The spray down...The farthest distance traveled was Eric from San Diego. He drove to LA and met Brent at 12 midnight after work and they drove through the night to attend. They arrived a little late to Oakhurst in the morning and Jeff berated us for being 10 minutes late. You see he and Moni were up drinking the night before and could have used the extra sleep.
Jeff parked before the rough 4x4 section and rode up in the Jeep. Brent powered up the road in his little tribute suv after we stacked rocks for his tires in the crux parts.
Soon we were at the lake bed and wondering where Kent was. Suddenly he came trotting across the lake and informed us he found a killer camp site across the way. He said he would join us soon, as his lady friend was sleeping in. Ha, the contestents thought, he is out of the running to win with a late start.
Heres a pic of the start of the trail.
We trudged up the trail admiring all the high ball boulders along the way. Brent and Jeff jumped on straight away sending every line in sight. The battle for the Shuteye Immunity Necklace had begun.
Jeff fired off a wide steep dihedral I originally thought was 11c via some sick face moves. He of course floated it with arm bars and said its was soft 10d.
Brent kept climbing as Eric faded away. But Eric did not mind belaying and enjoying the seen. Brent made sure to keep his energy up with gratuitus sips of Jameson Whisky and can tokes.
Brent on the move...
Soon Kent showed up with a pack of dogs, his lady and big guns. Jeff slipped on the first move of a route and lost the chance for the FA. Losing momentum he began to fade but not after sending a slew of routes. Brent looked shaky on an 11d and climbed up and down 10 times before sticking the move and finishing the route. Kent floated the same route like it was 5.9.
The sun began to set. My goal of red pointing every route began to slip through my hands like sand from the hour glass. Brent went for a heady 11b gear route and on the first wide section climbed around in a circle 3 times trying to figure a way out. Finally he succeded and cautiously made his way past some stopper placements and on to the send.
Jeff smoothly climbed a wide crack "Smoke and Mirrors" and down rated it to 10d, again.
Kent moved to the far end of the wall and quickly ticked 3 5.10 routes as the sun set. At this point we had no idea how many routes everone had sent. But some how even after arriving late Kent had beat Brent in the route count. After everyone left Brent borrowed my head lamp and fired one more route just in case.
Back at camp we thought Brent had done 13 and Kent 12 but later I figured that they had actually tied with 12 routes each but Brent had done 2 harder climbs. He was awarded the Immunity Necklace and I am sure slept well after being up for well over 24 hours.
After arriving home the next day his neighbor pointed out a huge lake of oil under his car. Looks like he cracked his oil pan on a rock and some how still drove all the way back to LA.
Already thinking of next years "Survivor Shuteye Challenge" when the Shuteye Immunity Necklace will be back up for grabs...
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Oct 13, 2009 - 10:34pm PT
|
Man, good times were had!!!
Grahm, 10 min late? BWHAAA! You should have pushed it till around 11:00 or so, that really gets his blood boiling!
Great shots, very nice looking wall you got there.
That necklace is missing a certain "longware" 1.5 in angle (without rivet!) found in a undisclosed area. We are talkin circa 60's.
Good to see some competition out there!
What is the season for that area?
Peace all
Mucci
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Oct 13, 2009 - 11:57pm PT
|
Hey Mucci man!!! We miss ya!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Oct 14, 2009 - 12:24pm PT
|
Good times up there, Graham! Looks like a lot of fun. (One of these days I'll meet the rest of the SoYo crew).
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 14, 2009 - 05:17pm PT
|
Nice photos & write-up, Grahm! Sounds like everyone climbed hard! Glad to hear it was a great time! Anyone have more photos to post?
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
|
Sh#t, we should go out to Fresno, dude. MAson, talk to Ezra about it. I wanna lead this trip, I just don't know if I can make it.....
I should lead it....or Doug......
|
|
mason805
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
|
Let's do it. I'm having major crack withdrawls.
Not like the kind that you smoke in a pipe.
Ezra - I know you've got the itch after the epic!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
|
We gotta talk, it may go...I know the route now.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2009 - 10:34pm PT
|
It ain't crack!!!!!! It's all knob face, slinging shit! It's good though...
It goes....
|
|
mason805
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2009 - 10:49pm PT
|
Wow, really? On that entire slab of granite there's not a single crack to be found? I'm down, but I'm still craving some good ol granite crack climbing.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
|
There is some #3 and #1 Camamlot sh#t but it's mostly face/knob-slingin'. Mybe even a couple of nuts, but mostly knobs....
Really cool.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2009 - 10:17pm PT
|
Moby Dick cresting the road. A tree temporarily blocked the road and Steve put the syncro into action.
The Dreamy Scape
Two new mixed routes went up on the Kings Tower.
"King Me" 10d - pro to 2"
[
"Golden Crown" 11a - pro to 3"
SoYo fall colors
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2009 - 10:31pm PT
|
Good stuff, Graham!
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2009 - 11:09pm PT
|
awesome...nicely done. Wish i was there right now!!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2009 - 12:32am PT
|
Looks like that Synchro caught air! Nice, fall photos, too!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2009 - 12:34am PT
|
Salad is going to like that shot of the Syncro
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2009 - 11:23pm PT
|
So, any additional beta for Whiskey Bill on Wamello... looks fun.
Any noticable feature to mark the start?
This is what I could gleen so far, probably enough-
p1 5.8 6x
p2 3x, 70'
p3 5.6 5x, 100'
p4 3x + pro
p5 take corner to top, pro
Bolted anchors all the way up.
Thanks all.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2009 - 11:47pm PT
|
Regarding Whiskey Bill, this used to be on Matt's site:
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
The ridge has been deserted lately and the amazing weather continues. Heres a few pics from the other weekend.
Does this qualify as a 4 season tent?
Beasore road
oh Balls
We started hiking out late and were gifted by the Shuteye gods with this sunset.
Going batty. Anyone know the species?
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Dooode I have that same shark tent...
Sweet.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
awesome photos, G!
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
Miss Shuteye!! :( Been in Texas these past weeks. And I'm pretty sure I'll miss out on getting out there the last part of this year. Something about Shuteye that makes it so spiritual for me. Thanks Matt, Nate and Tiki for turning me onto Shuteye!
BTW, nice stuff you got on The King Tower, Grahm. Would love to check it out.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Glad to give you the tour anytime Mooch! "King Me" the 10d is truly amazing. A splitter gear crack in a dihedral leads to a steep bolted juggy head wall.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Wow, King Me sounds awesome!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2009 - 12:41pm PT
|
Vet's Day weather looks iffy... rain/snow coming? Is this the beginning of the end for '09?
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2009 - 12:43pm PT
|
bite your tongue Slater! ;)
(yes, I know, we need the water, or at least agriculture in the CV says they need it).
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2009 - 01:23pm PT
|
dude, we're heading up mid-week so I'm hoping it doesn't happen...
until we're back down that road!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2009 - 02:13pm PT
|
I will...
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2009 - 02:14pm PT
|
get back to ya'll with pics and TR.
Ta Da! Got the 900th!
where the heck is this one? Flourescent Eagle? Which formation?
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2009 - 04:09pm PT
|
The coloration makes me think California Brown Bat - if it was larger, say 5-6 inches in length - then probably your basic Eptesicus fuscus (Big Brown Bat).
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
|
It's a bat, I could have told you that.
And it's brown.
And it's from California.
But what is this?
for the wallpaper view...
http://www.climbing.com/leadingoff/shuteyeridge-256-reeder.jpg
by shawn reeder
Wicked for sure. I'm guessing .12, which seems to be the Shuteye grade of choice.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2009 - 04:18pm PT
|
.12c! I would have guessed .12a. Either way, this girl climbs better than I do. Rad shot! I can't believe this place doesn't get more pics in the magazines, amazing colors and features. Please God, no rain until Wednesday night!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
|
Didn't know Sharma paid a visit to Electric Eagle, likely on the same shoot as the one you posted, Tom.
Plenty more good ones in the series.
I think this one ran in Patagucci, or somewhere, as I recall seeing it before:
Gee, my Shuteye grade of choice is 5.9.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 02:16am PT
|
Very nice pics all!
Grahm, awesome sunset pictures! Man what colors.
Thanks for the magazine pix Nate, what a wall!!
Man I got my new rig all ready for next season!
Whats the situation up there, south side stuff good?
I may have to head up for a couple before it's really over.
Who is down? Gray crew reunion?
Mucci
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 12:25pm PT
|
Might be Wet T-shirts by the end of the weekend....
|
|
The Wedge
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
|
The bat is a little brown or big brown. Reeder told me the story of sharma sending Shawn Jones 5.13 project. I guess it came in at 13c. Looks bitchen for sure. Got close to shuteye last weekend and made it to the VALLEY...one of these days.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 11:37am PT
|
Mucci, you know I'm down. When and where? New rig??? Details, details??
Anyone going out there this Sat? Forcast looks good. Not sure how low or how much snow they got out of the storm yesterday. Should melt out today? Or might head up to Wawona Dome, should be mostly dry by tomorrow.
Grahmn, You getting out Sat? Love those boulders above the Queens Throne. Highball boulder fest!
Jeff
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 12:47pm PT
|
Hey Jeff! How was the sandstone cracks?
Sat looks cold and I think I need to work. I bet Chiquito will be perfect. I'll call ya if I can go Sat.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 12:49pm PT
|
The Brain
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 01:12pm PT
|
Hi Jeff - How was Indian Creek? We're still up for Wawona... whenever Mucci & Kev are free too. I think Steve was interested in heading up as well. Let us know. s
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 01:32pm PT
|
Grahmn and Sue, we had a GREAT trip!!! Wish I was still there. Got off to a cold start but warmed up to be perfect temps. Even a little warm in shelterd areas. Spent most of the time at The Creek. Hiked on one of the stormy days in the Fishers. Went through Bryce on the way to Zion. Best hike ever in Bryce. Finished the trip in Zion. The Iron Mesiah in Zion is just Fun.
Sue, I am working very sporadically right now. Lots of free time but work can come up last min. Josh might come up on the 19th/20th? You are all welcome anytime. Come up tomorrow if ya want.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
|
Okay, What a great trip! We've done that circuit before and I'd love to again some day. Flew into SLC, got a one-way rental and drove to Moab, Indian Creek, Canyonlands, Arches, thru Capitol Reef, Bryce and Zion. Flew out of Las Vegas. One of the best trips I've ever had! Thx for sharing the photos! I'll pm you our cell #s in case we can hook up even this w/e!
|
|
dustonian
climber
Foresta
|
|
Wow, that looks like a bitchin' line! Thanks for posting Clint.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
wow, thx for calling that out Clint. Amazing location!
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
I'm itchin to get back home, er I mean SoYo. How about the rest of you?
Grahm - have you been doing any snowmobile ascents?
Somebody post up some news damn it!
Jeff, where are you?
kev
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
Absolutely! Nater, you too?? BTW, Kev.....you and I have a date with a certain formation. Mucci where art thou??
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
Yeah dammit - I've even taken to scoping out the snowmobiler forums looking for Grahm's exploits.
A bud of mine from Bass Lake punched his way into my summer homestead right after January's snow dumps - counted over 100 trees down across Beasore Road and Grizzly Road!!!!!!!!!
Measured 9-11 feet of snow at Cold Springs Summit!!!
I think climbing the SoYo is out for a while.
|
|
dustonian
climber
Foresta
|
|
Nice high-res shot Biotch. Is that your route? Anyone know how many other routes are on that formation? Surely more than 2...?!?
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
100 trees down? Sheesh, now we're gonna need helicopters as well to get to our favorite crags.
Leo and Grahm have been out there on the sleds recently, but it sounds like it was mostly for the fun in the powder, and not on the rock. The outhouse at Cold Springs Summit is indeed completely buried.
And yep, I too am missing the place big time - so do we resort to waxing nostalgic and sharing a few very carefully edited photos? (Which I say with a LOT of hesitancy.)
mooch nears the top on an early ascent (second ascent, methinks), of Power to the People, thusly named because of the formations striking resemblance to a fist, as seen here.
A different angle on the same section. tiki-jer steps lightly thru 5.8 friction before knob cruising ensues.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
dust,
3 known routes (one not officially reported) to the top, and others in the works, as mentioned in the article. But who can be dead sure? Mystery still prevails in some remote places...
The first route, Memphis Blues, has possibly never seen a second ascent in 30+ years. Or, at least Stephen McCabe hasn't heard any feedback in all that time.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Grahm is actually getting more into snowmobiles than climbing... pfft
Leo on Sunset Shamen on a very very cold day. I believe Bruce was on the belay.
I imagine all we'll have is memories for awhile. El Nino has done a number up there.
I've got two projects ready to send and it's giving me fits...
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
WHOOAAAAHH!!!
SOYO Resurrected!!!
That is indeed a fine looking route. Looks like alot of obvious features, let the games begin!
Mooch- I have not forgotten, FOO FOO BREW!
Man it's gonna be a loooong spring.
Nice shot of TIKi, now that's one cool cat.
Cheers
Mucci
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
|
Tork,
You out there?
All,
I think we need to have a spring preparatory meeting. Kinda like a big long safety meeting only with lots of beer. What y'all think?
kev
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2010 - 06:53pm PT
|
Good to see So Yo on the front page again. Power to the Peeps looks sooo good from that angle. How hard is it? Keep me in the loop yall. I been thinkin about taking skis into Fres-mello dome early season and skiing that western slope off the top if the avy danger isn't too high. Thought a good day would be to ski in, ditch skis on top. Slither down the east gully and climb a route to the top and ski off.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2010 - 06:56pm PT
|
Micro that would be a full on adventure fur sure!
Best just hitch a ride with one of those sled owners!
Man, global warming needs to step it up so we have an early season! HAHAHAH>
It's so close I can feel the perfect granite.
Oh and I am buying a chainsaw. Tollhouse just plain scares me when he is yielding one!
Mucci
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2010 - 07:25pm PT
|
Sh#t give Tollhouse some a few gallons of white gas and he'll take care of the snow
kev
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2010 - 07:32pm PT
|
That's a good idea Micro! I may try that. I'll up the ante though and x/c ski in with packs and spend the night. I've only been there once so there's a lot left for me to explore. Shoot, the route I did we didn't even finish. I gots work to do!!!
Where would you park and leave the vehicle is the question.
Kev, I'd like to attend this (beer drinking) meeting.
Mucci, I always wanted a chainsaw....I may score one too!
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
|
Tollhouse with gallons of white gas would be epic, not to mention the start of the biggest forrest fire in history.
think of all of the formations that would pop up!
Man, I miss tollhouse!
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2010 - 07:38pm PT
|
So where is Grahm and more importantly, where are his snow photos of the great rocks of the Soyo In Snow?
Let me guess - he putting around some meadow on his turbo sled blowing on his didgeridoo.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2010 - 07:42pm PT
|
Bluey,
Seriously, Tollhouse has 3 chainsaws for sale right now.
Call me tonight im going over to his hood.
kev
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2010 - 07:51pm PT
|
10-4, good buddy....
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2010 - 10:59pm PT
|
Oh, I just scored a chainsaw.....sweet!!!!
|
|
socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2010 - 11:02pm PT
|
Nothing like your first chain saw...
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2010 - 11:15pm PT
|
SoCal, look out!!!!! Daddy's got a new toy!!
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Feb 12, 2010 - 10:15am PT
|
Bluey,
If you only knew the discussion about you and the saw that ensued after you left with it last night....
kev
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2010 - 02:29pm PT
|
Hey Guys! Just checked this thread out of the blue and see I need to post an update. Been busy snowmobiling and didge playing ;-)
Central Camp to the Look Out has very few down trees and will be easily cleared with chainsaws after the snow melts. Snow pack at Cold Springs Summit is about 7 to 8 feet. As of yesterday this recent warm spell has melted the snow off the south faces and they are climbable!
I was riding around yesterday with light long sleeve shirt and no jacket. Felt like high 60's in the sun. Rode to the top of Magic Wall which is warm and dry and then boon docked down the valley and over to Lost Eagle which looks a bit wetter due the snow on top. Found some good looking stone along the way too.
Heres some recent pics...
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2010 - 02:38pm PT
|
NIce G!
Man, what's the tour cost?
Thanks for the update, I was getting worried that the amount of trees down would be an issue.
I would be happy to get in on the "Clearing Party" this year, I think some saws have recently been purchased for the spring.
BIG AIR!
Mucci
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2010 - 03:57pm PT
|
Good stuff, Grahm!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2010 - 05:04pm PT
|
Grahm,
FYI, some of that "good looking stone along the way" has been claimed. hehe :) Not that anyone else will ever be interested in such a long approach...
I haven't snowmobiled since I was a teenager in Utah, but boy was it fun! Great looking powder. Was it so thick you sometimes can't risk stopping, lest you sink and can't get going again?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2010 - 05:40pm PT
|
You mean like this? ;-)
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2010 - 12:15pm PT
|
Snow BUMP!
Nice air Grahm!
Is that the steep Leo was telling me about?
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2010 - 06:07pm PT
|
Hey Nater....when was the last time you went up to those formations? Need to finish up on a few things. ;)
micro -
Power To The People (5.9R)....prepare to sling a few rounded "knuckles". This one always has my full attention. Props to Tiki and Nater for the FA!
Grahm, Tork, mucci, kev, susu, tiki, nater, JR (sorry if I left out anyone in the SoYo crew)......time to have an opening season shindig! Perhaps Memorial Day weekend. Remember Salsafest?? Bluey....micro, you in?
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2010 - 06:52pm PT
|
Grahm - you might want to swing by Bass Lake Fire and look up Steve A. - he's a local snomo guy who also owns one of Badger Pass's old SnoCats.
Anyway, he has been working with some of the FS boys getting a jump on tree cutting - last I talked with Steve, they had cleared Beasore Road up to about the 8 mile mark.
The "plan" is to keep cutting Beasore past the meadow and then clear cut Grizzly Road down to Lower Chiquito.
Rick
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2010 - 10:56am PT
|
Sounds good to me Mooch! Salsafest on top of Chiquito Dome.
Get in there Grahm, I'm sure there are a bunch of down trees on the road to the top. They probably clear better with a chainsaw than a Bosch!!!
Jeff
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2010 - 12:30pm PT
|
I went out digging and lifting, I mean snowmobiling, this weekend as well.
What kind of sled you got there? I'm looking at the newer ones to see if they are lighter and get stuck less. I also have a need to carry two people on one. Any ideas?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2010 - 01:00pm PT
|
Tom, bunch of good info on this Forum: http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/index.php
I would go with Arctic Cat or Skidoo XP. At least an 800cc. Don't get a touring sled. Even though they are made for 2 people, they are heavy and way less capable in the hills. Go for a mountain sled with Min 151" track and a 2" tooth. Every year the sleds get lighter and more capable but my 2003 Arctic Cat 900 can hang with new sleds after some mods were done. Some real good deals out there now that the season is winding up.
You can ride a passenger up front and stand/ sit behind them for the best balance when riding in the mountains.
Salsa Fest on Chiquito would be sweet! However, the spring melt will make the creek crossing pretty daunting unless you have a lifted 4x4. Remember this pic?
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2010 - 03:15pm PT
|
What about Gray Eagle camp? Wherever the salsafest will be, wish we could make it but already got locked into Lake Tahoe for Memorial Day wknd.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2010 - 04:53pm PT
|
I'm totally in for anything that ends in "fest." Salsafest, shuteyefest, hinterlandfest, whatever. Just let me know. I've only met a couple of yall and look forward to a good season when all this white melts out.
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2010 - 05:32pm PT
|
I've noticed the sleds have gotten lighter. When I see you stuck like in that shot above, my back starts to hurt.
I have a Polaris 700 RMK, 1999. It's pretty good, but when the snow is soft, I can't carry another skier very well. I also burn through belts like a mo-fo. Snowmobiling and skiing work very well together when everything works right, but it quickly loses it's luster when it goes wrong.
As soon as the back end cuts trough a solid layer, I'm spinning to the floor.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2010 - 05:48pm PT
|
micronut, what about 'digs'
shindigs
do we ever have kneedigs?
footdigs?
elbowdigs?
just sayin
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2010 - 07:27pm PT
|
Mungie -
Shuteye or shutup! (just teasin' bro). When are you gonna ever come out here so we can show you and the wifey around? Inquiring minds wanna know. Brennan wants to come back out here this year. We went out to Chiquito with him last year on a mega hot fall day. Then we took him out to LE to sample that. Pat's quote: "Ohhhhhhhh....I'll be back.....PBR in hand......oooooohhhh Man!!"
Susu -
Throw me a bone here! At least show some form of commitment! ;)
Kev -
I'm cuttin you off the FooFoo Light....Tork and I will "assist" you, god willing!
|
|
Captain...or Skully
Social climber
walkin' the road to nowhere
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2010 - 07:54pm PT
|
Bump for grahm & his sledneckin'.....YeeHaw!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2010 - 11:23pm PT
|
Mooch! Ok, some vittles. I'm really bummed we'll miss out! It's just a family thing is already booked. We'll have to plan another wkend shindig w/you and the gang... As we get closer to the season, let's make it happen. Thoroughly miss it there! Nice go'n resuscitating the thread! Guess we were all hibernating on the subject bc it's such a tease yet. ;)
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2010 - 03:45am PT
|
Yes, shuteye and hibernation. Spot on.
Will there ever be a rude awakening from our dreamy slumber?
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2010 - 09:11am PT
|
Nate.....email me. Tiki-Ger (aka Gentle Ben) is gaining girth from his old ladies' food and needs to get his climb on. HA!
Dammit Su.....don't you know by now that Shuteye comes before family?! I'll let it slide just this once. ; ).
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2010 - 01:02pm PT
|
Mooch,
Not to worry, I'll have a talk with Susu and John. They missed a good weekend in the valley to eat crab! I really need to have a talk with them and straighten out their priorities for them.
Count me in.
BTW although still a big fan of FooBrew and FooLite, I did (shuhdder) quit nicotine! WTF 4 weeks plus now!!!
kev
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2010 - 05:14pm PT
|
mooch,
Ooo, sounds serious. I thought that when one goes into hibernation he/she loses weight. And then you finally wake up with a beast of an appetite for tasty rock, like I do.
Email forthcoming.
Good going kev on quitting that one nasty addiction!
If family and weather permit, I'll shoot for some of Mem. day weekend.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Where only the cracks are dry
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2010 - 05:55pm PT
|
Four Weeks, that's really exciting, Kev!!
Keep up the good work.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2010 - 07:09pm PT
|
Nice job Kev!
Hope to see ya soon!
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2010 - 07:12pm PT
|
Hey Fletch....I mean Mooch.....don't be spreading gossip now and calling me names......seems like I heard of a Big Texas size appetite ya'll had when you were down there last time. Gettin' it done BBQ style. Huh? ya big-lug.
Oh and thanks for the kind words earlier Mucci....you're a cool cat too.
Kev congrats on kicking that habit. More than 15 years now for me.
Now you'll join the ranks of us 'Gentle Ben' types :P
Peace!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2010 - 07:22pm PT
|
nice kev!
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
What are everyone's plans/projects for the beginning of the season?
kev
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
Jeffs "Gray matters" Primo this season.
Kev- you know you don't need those tubes or big cams! Hook a brother up.
I will continue to call.
You can screen forever, I will start using other #'s
Mucci
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
stalker alert
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
I have no limits when it comes to procuring the necessary.
Ok OK.....Kev there is a sixer of foo foo in it for you deal?
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
I look to be heading out there again this year. Prolly not as much as Kev and gang, but I'll be out there.
And Mucci, I'm getting a piece (.45) too, so we can do some shooting. I'll let you touch mine If I can touch yours....
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Knock it off!!!!
Folks will get the wrong idea of what goes on out at Shuteye.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
just an effort to derail the masses.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
What happens at the Shuteye....stays at the Shuteye.
Well, unless you pass out around the fire and someone has a camera. Bwahahhaah!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
Shuteye bump...
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Missing those plates and edges and of course all that sunshine
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
Soon!
Jeff, I'm gonna loan josh the gear you need for the weekend. How wide you going?
kev
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
Kev what time should I be at your house, gonna try and make a quick swoop.
thanks again bro.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
kev -
Congrats on kickin' the coffin nails! Mucci and I will help you with the rest. Would love to see you guys when we can get up in there. Thanks for setting Susu and John straight. Crab?!?! FAMILY?!?!?!? What are they thinking?!!!!!!
Tiki-Lurker -
Get off the couch and make it happen! Been workin' on my Texas girth by cycling and slingin' the weights.....have you?????? You know I love ya! Always 'Today's Gift' when we're on and off the rope. :)
Mucci -
Thanks for the laugh. Made my day man!!
Hmmm....mooch's plans are all over the place. Red Rocks a little over a week from now. The Stronghold in April. Biting at the bit to get into our "paradise" by mid May. Munge and I are headed for this in June:
The Mrs. and I have a few solo exploits we want to do in the backcountry (Long Twisting Rib on Williamson), Eagle Scout to Black Rock Pass in Sequoia and Matthes Crest. Some fun roped stuff on Norman Clyde Peak (Thunderbird Wall). And then off to do this with Mungie in Sept/Oct:
In between all this, training for the Death Ride in Markleeville, The Son Of Death and the Mt. Shasta Super Century.
'Course, I'll fit in Salsafest, a few new routes in "the 'Eye" and spend time with you all. With FooFooless beer and quality vino in tow....along with Mrs. Mooch. ;)
|
|
HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
|
|
NORTH DOME!!!!
Hope to get there a few times this year.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
Mooch "high on the psyche" Moocherman
good stuff
just got back from an hour climbing sesh at the plastique with a session of weights. the burner (not taco burner) was the medicine ball with a squat on the catch, then toss it back. my quads and inside thigh is killing me. gotta stretch...
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Snow report - The bathroom at Beasore Road summit about 7,400 feet is completely buried. Can't even see the roof line. Prolly about 12 feet of snow. I am looking out my window in Oakhurst at a fresh inch right in town! 2,200 feet
Seasoned riders are saying this is the second heaviest build up in the last 10 years. Mid May for driving cars around Shuteye could be optimistic at this point unless it really warms up in April.
You all are going to have to get one of these or snowmobiles pretty soon!
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
HHAAAHHAA!! Too funny Mungie! Gonna need them quads and calves for the approach to that first fo-toe!!!! Ahhhhh......sweet misery!
Yep, hitting the gym 3 to 4 times a week here at Ed-weird AFB. Gotta get strong yah know.... :P
HighGravity -
Whatcha gettin' on over at Norf Dumb this year? Craig Peer gave me the lowdown that he's going back to the Chernobyl Wall and replacing the old SMC's for most of his routes he put in back in '84/'85. You part of that crew?
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Mar 11, 2010 - 12:45pm PT
|
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Mar 11, 2010 - 12:53pm PT
|
riffles and ridges!
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Mar 11, 2010 - 01:06pm PT
|
Yummy teaser Nater! Ahhh...Funnel Runnel, good stuff.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Mar 11, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
|
mooch,
We've still gotta jump on p.2 of Sizzle Lean to the right... and in cool early season temps, or is that cheating?
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2010 - 05:25pm PT
|
Kinda Lost Eagled out. Time to move onto "other" projects Nater. ;)
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2010 - 10:44pm PT
|
Too bad everything's done and there's no more room for more routes! ;-)
The bathroom BEFORE Friday nights dump. Snow silly not the other kind!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2010 - 10:45pm PT
|
Search and Rescue set up camp for the weekend heres the crafty fire pit.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2010 - 10:46pm PT
|
Leo looking in the new snow cave.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2010 - 10:47pm PT
|
Window view
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2010 - 10:48pm PT
|
Pretty comfy in here. Bet they were stoked to be in there during the storm!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2010 - 10:49pm PT
|
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2010 - 10:49pm PT
|
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2010 - 10:50pm PT
|
Do you see whats coming!!!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2010 - 10:50pm PT
|
Thats right - 1,000 posts! Pretty cool. To celebrate heres one of a few new crags I found exploring on snowmobile.
I have been blessed to be able to spend almost every weekend for a year out on the ridge. Experiencing all the seasons has been amazing. A few more ridge shots from this weekend.
|
|
Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2010 - 10:51pm PT
|
#1001! I just missed it!
Those of us who don't own snowmobiles might find it hard to access the So Yosenite/ Shuteye Ridge area for a few more months. Too bad as the rock there is way too good.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2010 - 11:05pm PT
|
'Tis true Grahm. There probably should be a moratorium on new routes.
Thanks for the snow updates!
No snowmobile here, but I do have x-country skis...
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Mar 16, 2010 - 05:46pm PT
|
Bump for the mooch and munge show!
Man good looking stones there.
Doe- Your making me sick with those pix, AIRTIME!
So whats the deal for the SOYO shakedown? I got a portable rotisserie, big enough to handle 300 lbs of meat. Runs on Propane. We could slap on a pig, 1,000 hot dogs, A primal cut of beef, or around 50-75 chickens.
If we are going to do it....................let's do it right!
If kegs are in order let me be the first to say
NO FOO FOO!
Mucci
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Mar 16, 2010 - 05:51pm PT
|
Bud Light Lime?
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Mar 16, 2010 - 05:59pm PT
|
I will have to confer with mooch on this one.
However I did enjoy the one I had, very tasty.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2010 - 04:15pm PT
|
Rob......shame on you!! Now, if you said Tecate and lime....nuther story altogether.
Minus two points on your beer judgement! Hands off the wall cooler the first day on FS!!
Mucci.....I thought we left susu in charge of handling beer infractions??
Sending you a PM Bruther Mucci.
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2010 - 04:52pm PT
|
Graham Doe- Is that a polaris ranger with tracks?
How well does it work?
My dad has been talking about getting one, but I keep thinking it would get stuck as soon as you take it off a road. If it does get stuck, how do you get out?
Where we are, we deal with a lot of snow over sage brush, so until the stuff consolidates, our polaris 700 punches through a lot. Even on the road after a big dump there are no guarantees and that an old powder sled.
I like getting rides to the top of the hill so I can ski down, so I'm always interested in anything that can carry passengers.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2010 - 05:29pm PT
|
Mungie-san
"Funya chin!"
Tom said: "I like getting rides..."
Hmmmm
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2010 - 05:41pm PT
|
Me and my buddy Ezra will be going for a re-match on Wamello Dome's South Pillar route around May 1st.
I shouldn't have any problems with the road, should I? Anybody?
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2010 - 06:44pm PT
|
You might. The amount of snow that got dumped this year might make it a mucky affair. When Cali got a big dump of snow in 1996, we weren't able to get back there with truck till late May. Had to hump it in, 2 miles down the road.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2010 - 07:25pm PT
|
Thanks, mooch. I suppose in 2-3 weeks we'll have a better idea.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2010 - 02:37pm PT
|
Kev -
I must've been half-asleep when I posted last year regarding 'Titanic'. You peaked my interest. Can Mooch play too when the time comes to return to it?
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2010 - 05:35pm PT
|
Titanic runs into "Delivering the Goods .10c" after 3.5 pitches.
This feature, "The sail" is expando A3 with a couple good natural hooks to a bolt and then the start of the flared chimney. Scary to think of freeing it.
More loose chimney aiding and BOOM! The Captains Quarters!
Then some thin beaks and the steep!
The 1st Pitch has been freed at .10a. Pretty burly looking after that.
HRMM.....maybe a free attempt?
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2010 - 06:24pm PT
|
sassy
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2010 - 06:38pm PT
|
Beaks and hook.....teaser time.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2010 - 06:38pm PT
|
Beaks and hook.....teaser time.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2010 - 08:34pm PT
|
We have Tollhouse Brian, he is a one man logging company.
Probably have to buy one more saw this year?
Man, I can't wait.
Mucci
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2010 - 12:23pm PT
|
Tom - Yup, a Polaris with tracks. Its pretty capable actually. Better than a touring snowmobile but not as good as a mountain sled. He has winches front and rear for getting it unstuck but it can usually reverse out of what ever it gets into. He had to use the winch once that day and he made it all the way out to Iron Lakes.
The snow is turning into "Sierra concrete" now, super hard and compact. Forecast of 3 to 6 inches of fresh by the end of next week. WooHoo! er, I mean bummer...
Takin it in the can...now that was some funny sh#*!
Here we are on Ahwahnee Ledge. I have since switched to "light" beer to save on weight ;-) I know, I know Coors "is" light beer. I actually really like Sam Adams light but ... can't get it in the can!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2010 - 03:07pm PT
|
We have Tollhouse Brian, he is a one man logging company.
Werd. He just sold me a saw a couple of months ago.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2010 - 04:50pm PT
|
Dear God!!....Grahm has been added to the sad ranks of The FooFoo People (not to be confused with the Mattress People).
This madness has to end!!
Mucci, Mooch, Susu, Tiki-Ger, Tork VS. Kev 'The FooFoo King' (Episode IV)*
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Awrem5pfhBk
*apologies to the director of 'Army Of Darkness'
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2010 - 05:26pm PT
|
Grahm, I was skiing Mt Raymond on Sunday the 14th. Was that you I heard making all that noise?
Tell us about the wall????
Jeff
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
Thought I'd dust this one off since the word "Tollhouse" was tossed around...
Devin Swisher, Birgit Buss and myself organized that years' Tollhouse Faceoff, with the theme "Climb Naked". This was the design that was on the t-shirts. Greg Powers did the route 'Balls' (5.9) and Diana Foster did the route 'Diana's Delight' (5.9)....both completely naked!! Sad that the Faceoff has faded out of favor these days. Oh, well.....nothing lasts forever. Good times, good mammories....er, memories. *cough cough*
Ok folks....sorry if I took this one too far "south".
Anyone up for Naked Salsafest?!?
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
Why was the leper hockey game called off?
There was a face off in the corner.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Speaking of Tollhouse... is it in shape for spring climbing? Anyone been lately? Any runoff? How's it looking? Thanks
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Nice pic Jeff! Wasn't me. The crazy thing is how many snowmobilers are up around Shuteye every week. Probably 20 times the amount of climbers in Summer!
Leo just went to Toll House so it should be good. Another storm coming in this week though!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Grahm, we want the wall story and the whole story!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Hi Jeff, we did it back in June. Trip report here:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/TR-Leaning-Tower-Wet-Denim-Daydream-6-21-09/t318n.html
One steep intimidating wall. I am used to steep routes but 900 feet of overhang was a trip! Gotta love all the steepness and then the final horizontal roof. Drop a piece there and it hits nothing all the way to the ground. Then after flopping over the top on to a ledge you sleep right there on the crest of the route. Amazing!
On a side note, heres a pic from Saturday nears Jones Store. This a 2 story cabin. They got 3 feet more up there last night!
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 01:10am PT
|
Holy hell!! Its gonna be early June before we get in over on Grizzly Rd!!
Lots of felled trees Grahm?
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 03:46pm PT
|
Mooch,
Leo said last week no downed trees on Beasore and Grizzly, but plenty on the road up to Shuteye proper.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
|
Anyone know how the other side of the road is? Say the pavement up to dirt 'road' for Gray?
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2010 - 05:39pm PT
|
NATE.....EMAIL ME!!
Need some info. Thanx
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2010 - 02:23pm PT
|
More snow. Arg it must end soon!
Everyone ready for the season to start?
kev
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2010 - 02:59pm PT
|
Sorry to all my SoYo friends, I don't think the snow will ever stop. I think I am being punished for all my sins. I AM SO SORRY!!!!!!!!
Jeff
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2010 - 03:19pm PT
|
Alas, the sun'll come out...
Annie said so.
But no need to apologize to Grahm, Tork. He's still living it up on the sled, I imagine.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2010 - 03:29pm PT
|
Rumor has it he's in the market for sled #2!!!
kev
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2010 - 03:35pm PT
|
Ya, he invited me to join him. I keep meaning to get back to him. Guess I am to busy blabing on the taco.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2010 - 03:45pm PT
|
Shouldn't you be climbing or something - or is it still snowing up there?
I just had my free pizza!
kev
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
Rumor has it that kev will be toting steel cans this year......need 'em as big bros on 'Titantic'. Course, it contains REAL beer. ;) Where are you mucci?
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
Titanic isn't wide - it's a friggin sinking ship!
Does 2 buck chuck come in a steel can?
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
That piece looks like a #12, Mung...
|
|
Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
|
|
16 mm, 22 Kn
hey, wheres the yosemite tr, bluey?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
May 10, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
|
Tis true, second sled purchased! If you want to ride in on my old sled and climb let me know. Checked the snow level at Beasore summit on Saturday and you can just see the top of the roof on the bathroom and the stop sign is visible but the post is buried. So base is anywhere from 4 to 8 feet at 7,oooft depending on sun exposure.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
May 10, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
|
Wow!! This is gonna be a late year getting in there for Central Camp and destinations above Chiquito Creek.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
May 10, 2010 - 02:45pm PT
|
Noooooooo!!!!!
Come on Global Warming... do SOMETHING!
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
May 10, 2010 - 02:58pm PT
|
I'll take you up on that offer Grahm.
Wazzup JR....saw Cam and Barry a few weeks ago at Tollhouse.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
May 10, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
|
Cool, when u want to go?
Current weather report for the ridge...
This Afternoon: A 20 percent chance of snow. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 47. West southwest wind around 18 mph, with gusts as high as 24 mph.
Tonight: Snow likely. Cloudy, with a low around 25. West northwest wind between 13 and 18 mph, with gusts as high as 24 mph. Chance of precipitation is 70%. New snow accumulation of 1 to 3 inches possible.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
May 10, 2010 - 03:07pm PT
|
Grahm (Mr. Blizzard) stop bringing those kinds of reports.
You're banned.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
May 10, 2010 - 08:52pm PT
|
Right the F*ck On!
kev
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
May 10, 2010 - 09:06pm PT
|
I got the letter yesterday on the final road decisions, but didn't have time to look over the maps and check it out - so thanks for the heads up, Grahm!
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
May 11, 2010 - 01:49am PT
|
Yep, got my letter too. Way to speak up Shuteye crew! The OHV boys get credit too.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 12:00pm PT
|
Nice shots Grahm!! Love that new line and the shots of Leo's workin' the crux to lasso the horn. Great Panorama Wall route!
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 08:52pm PT
|
Hey fellow SoYo dudes. I was wondering what the overall thought was for shameless self-promotion here on the Taco-Stand.
I know a few others do it to sell shirts etc... And as it were I would like to sell my designs on shirts too. In fact I did have a line of shirts etc.. that I used to advertise in Climbing Magazine (bitd) but my advertising rates almost tripled and I did'nt have enough orders coming in. The Company name was Rock-A-Dile Prints.
My last known ad was in the 20th Anniversary of the magazine No.119 April/May 1990 on page 108 if'n ya got a copy laying around.
Anyway I'd like to launch the designs once again...kinda a retro thing I suppose and since I own the copyrights why knott?
I thought I would test the waters here first and then post it on the Stand proper like.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 09:03pm PT
|
If Simon can, you can too!
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 10:28pm PT
|
Hey Mungie, Thanks for chiming in....Mooch and Nate gave me a big 10-4 for lift off, but I wanted more feedback.
Thanks.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 10:33pm PT
|
Got another couple of votes here. Sounds like a great idea, Tiki-Jer. Looking forward to seeing your designs!
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 10:35pm PT
|
Hey Howgoesit SuSu, how are you guys?
You got the old issue? But I'll post'em soon
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 10:42pm PT
|
Hi - Good, Tiki-Jer! Looking forward to the warming trend! We did our best to melt some snow and clear a couple trees from Shuteye Roads last weekend. Hope to see you out there soon!
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 10:54pm PT
|
Oh yeah!!!
Eye season is upon us!
WHOOOOOP!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 11:19pm PT
|
It is time!
I am sure Chiquito Dome is good to go from below.
Wawona Dome had perfect temps yesterday and everything WAS dry.
Jeff
|
|
stella
climber
cali
|
|
|
May 18, 2010 - 01:53am PT
|
moving to shaver lake next week for 4 or 5 months. anyone that would like to share beta about climbing in the shaver area or shuteye ridge, please feel free. pm me if said beta should not be public. thanks, matt
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
May 18, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
|
Did ya scamper on Chiquito Dome recently susu? Or did you just pine for the higher domes?
stella,
You are lucky. Plenty of climbing around Shaver, and then you've got beautiful Courtright not far away. A fair amount of beta is online. Look up Bald Mountain and Kerkhoff Dome as well. Shuteye is more of a haul, 2 hrs. or so back down the mountain and then up again. If only you could get there as the crow flies - straight over the San Joaquin.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
May 18, 2010 - 02:58pm PT
|
We scampered a little bit on Chiquito - already getting very hot there, hiked a bunch, checked out all kinds of logging spur roads.... usually to meet w/trees fallen across the way or snow drifts. Grizzly Road had too many fallen trees to be passable yet.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
May 19, 2010 - 12:57pm PT
|
What's up everybody.
Hey, I just saw something somewhere online about a route on The Book Of Revelation formation at the balls called "Lone Pine Crack." It said its four pitches, then 300 feet of class III.
Is that true?
I'm into four pitch 5.7 handcracks.
I dig 'em.
Anybody here done it or know anything about it? Where is it? I'm hoping to get up there as soon as the road allows.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
May 19, 2010 - 02:22pm PT
|
Micro,
Haven't done it or seen it, but might only be the first pitch or two that are crack. Thomas Hartmann route, right? And I've been warned not to approach from the Jackass Lake Trailhead, as described in the guide, due to horrendous bushwhacking. Skirt right, around the small dome currently known as JLT dome (but formerly called Thunder Dome by Spencer, and who knows what by Robbins BITD), then up to the right side of Book or Rev.
If anyone knows more, chime in - or maybe not. If it's real good, then keep quiet...
:)
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
May 19, 2010 - 02:29pm PT
|
So to approach the Book of Revelation do not approach it from the left if facing it - instead find the wash and go up the wash - easy peasy.
In other words don't follow Spencers directions - do the exact opposite of what his guide says.
kev
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
May 21, 2010 - 12:40pm PT
|
"In other words don't follow Spencers directions - do the exact opposite of what his guide says." Classic - hehe
Your SoYo weather update for the weekend: Saturday: Mostly sunny, with a high near 46. West northwest wind between 5 and 13 mph.
Saturday Night: A 20 percent chance of snow. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 24. West wind at 9 mph becoming east northeast.
Sunday: A 40 percent chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 43. Calm wind becoming west between 4 and 7 mph. New snow accumulation of less than a half inch possible.
Sunday Night: A 20 percent chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 26.
Now ducking for cover...
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
May 21, 2010 - 01:13pm PT
|
Shot me now....Looks like I'm going to the domelands for the holiday due to the annoying central sierra snows....
kev
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
May 24, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
|
Its 4 weeks from summer, good thing I haven't put my snowmobiles away. Check this out...
Tuesday Night: Rain and snow likely, mainly after 11pm. Snow level 7000 feet. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 33. South wind between 3 and 7 mph. Chance of precipitation is 70%. New snow accumulation of less than one inch possible.
Wednesday: Rain and snow likely. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 42. South wind around 6 mph. Chance of precipitation is 70%. New snow accumulation of 3 to 5 inches possible.
Wednesday Night: A chance of rain and snow. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 29. Chance of precipitation is 50%. New snow accumulation of 1 to 2 inches possible.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
May 26, 2010 - 05:10pm PT
|
It's still a ways off but getting so much closer....
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
May 26, 2010 - 06:36pm PT
|
Thanks for the pictoral update, susu. Nice to see that stone, sucks it's inaccessible right now.
{sigh}
The time will come....
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
May 26, 2010 - 06:42pm PT
|
Macronut and I are gonna have a go at The Acolyte on Chiquito on Friday morning. Early. Like sunrise. Anybody else gonna be up there?
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
May 26, 2010 - 06:51pm PT
|
Have fun! Conditions are perfect, even too hot, there!
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
May 26, 2010 - 09:21pm PT
|
I've never been there and we are on a time crunch. Nate sent me some driving and approach beta. Any other input?
What do you mean "approach from the bottom."?
About how long should it take us to get from the parking spot to the rope up spot for The Acolyte?
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
May 27, 2010 - 03:12am PT
|
Just comparing snowpack with susu's photo.This pic taken May 5, 2006.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
from the Leastside
|
|
|
May 27, 2010 - 05:45am PT
|
Nice .
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
May 27, 2010 - 01:09pm PT
|
Susu,
Looks like Owl Wall is fine, no? I'm guessing the road might be good to our site by next weekend, whacha think?
kev
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
May 27, 2010 - 05:57pm PT
|
Susu's panorama style...
Hope that was OK Susu! Keeps me stoked! Look at all that rock!
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
May 27, 2010 - 05:59pm PT
|
It's totally climbable now just not 'convenient' to get to our happy place.
At least the stream gonna be flowing strong for a while :)
kev
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
May 27, 2010 - 06:01pm PT
|
Nate, love that shot too!
Oooh...ahhh!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
May 28, 2010 - 02:31am PT
|
That improves the photo, Slater! Was taken 5/14, Nate.
Doesn't appear much more melted. Maybe it'll be a couple
weeks yet since it's snowing now.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
May 31, 2010 - 11:32pm PT
|
pretty cool, Grahm....
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Thanks for the slideshow, Grahm. Awesome!
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
Love those Runnels!!
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
A lot of snow should have melted out this weekend and this week if the weather is anything like it was down in the domelands. Well at least on the Grey side of 81. Grahm, what do you think? John, Sue?
I found a winter playground this weekend btw. Perhaps (??) untouched (hard to believe but binocs don't lie).
kev
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Binocs do lie sometimes, kev.
Domelands area, or sorta Soyo? I know, I know, you shouldn't speak too soon...
especially in public.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
Neither but on the west side! I'll let people know as I find out more but prolly via other means (email etc).
Binocs don't lie about vegetation though. If there are corners and cracks that are heavily vegetated then they're untouched (sure there are execptions, but you see my point :)
kev
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
I had the strong desire to get out onto the ridge yesterday after work. My partner fell through so I decided to head out anyhow and keep it close in case my snowmobile broke down and I had to walk. So it was off to the Watchtower. Rode right up to it and rope soloed 3 routes. Awesome evening. Heres some pics. Oh ya there's still 6 feet of snow at the bathroom on Beasore summit. Had to park and ride in about 1/4 mile before Central Camp turn off.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
Grahm-
Tiki will grit his teeth when I mention this here but, oh well!
Do me a favor and drag his butt out there to the Eye! Accept no excuses from him! In fact, I'll pay for the gas you use to go pick him up in Fresburg. PLEASE help our Brother out!
Mooch out!
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
Get Tiki out!
kev
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
Grahm,
You figure the road to 'Grey Camp' is pretty mellow by now - yeah? From what I saw in sequoi if should be fine...Whacha think?
kev
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Just talked to Tiki a few days ago. He knows the offer is open when he's ready.
Its possible Gray camping is open. Its also possible for the shaded sections of the road to have huge snowdrifts. Its crazy hows there will be no snow and then bam, huge thick snowdrifts. You'll be rolling the dice I give 50/50 odds. At least the drifts are super hard packed and they are easy to walk on. You'll be able to get pretty close I would think.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
That's what I'm hoping for. I'll levae you a msg if I head up...
kev
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
No, you're not hearing me right Grahm......GET HIM OUT!! That boy needs some "human on rock" time! He's not been gettin no lovin'!!
Nomeen?
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
G,
Do you know who did the routes there? I've heard they are fun 'lil shorties, but then again, what isn't up there when it's not too hot?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
No, but I would love to find out who did them! Plus I wonder if the original name used was the "Family Wall" or not.
They did a great job and the hangers and anchors all seem to match so I think one party did the whole wall.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Some had said Spencer, but when I asked him, he knew of nothing and hadn't climbed anything beyond Catnap/Maelstrom Dome. I reckon the routes are from the early 2000s. I also don't know the origin of the name.
To the lurkers in the know, feel free to chime in. :)
Somebody get Tiki out!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Dan and Sue, I think
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Would you ask and verify that Jeff? Thanks!
557s?
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
"557?"
Where you goin' with that Nate? >: )
America's next concern (well over the oil spill in the gulf).....
GET TIKI OUT TO THE EYE!!!!!!!!!!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
just rumors...
Or did Urmas already say he did the routes there with Dan?
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
I've got some fresh pictures! Maybe later tonight!!!!
kev
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Groan...
My inner Shuteye addict has been pacing inside my head now for a month.
Nothing else is gonna do.
Grahm, does the forest circus chainsaw trees or is it just you and crew?
Looking fwd to the opening ceremony and actually connecting with a few of you on this thread.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2010 - 12:19pm PT
|
The forest circus will clear trees but by the time they get out there the season will be over ;-)
Theres only 2 trees blocking the road on the Look Out road and they are up by the first campsite. There could be more hidden under some of the snowdrifts. Once the snow melts out more we can go cut em out.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2010 - 11:25pm PT
|
Anyone heading up this weekend? We've been having a lot of nice sunny warm weather over here. It was 90 at the beach last weekend...
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2010 - 01:33am PT
|
Gettin' itchy...
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Jun 13, 2010 - 11:55pm PT
|
Hey Y'all,
i'll be climbing in SoYo June 26th to July 4th. Looking to hook up with whomever and rope solo some routes...feel free to contact me
eatsleepclimb@yahoo.com
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2010 - 01:59pm PT
|
Cool Matt! We'll prolly see you up there sometime over your stay.
Some photos from the wkend of the stubborn snow:
& Friendly snake crossing - Another rattler who doesn't rattle:
<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid956.photobucket.com/albums/ae47/setageus/MVI_2687.mp4">;
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2010 - 04:53pm PT
|
Dang, i cannot help but get freaked out by those things!! Yeah, i'll probably be climbing from Monday the 28th to the 4th and heading back to Seattle after that...
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2010 - 08:47pm PT
|
Great pics Sue! Looks like fun going through those tunnels.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2010 - 01:57am PT
|
Tom,
That's Thomas Hartmann's revived site, which was originally an online supplement hosted by Rock & Ice online, in the late 90s, I think. It disappeared for quite a few years, and he brought it back a year ago or so. We've been in touch a hint over the years. There's no new content since then as far as I've been able to tell, and a few of the original topos and photos are missing.
Thomas is one of a handful of folks who quietly pioneered routes by traditional means in the backwoods of our beloved SoYo throughout the 90s.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2010 - 10:59pm PT
|
it was fun to see.
I hope all is well on the home front Nate.
Might get one for ya this weekend...
;)
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Jun 18, 2010 - 12:33am PT
|
I love that you all keep this thread going. Thanks. I got to get over to check out some of these climbs.
Climb on!
Zander
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Jun 18, 2010 - 04:43pm PT
|
I really wanna hit fresno dome this afternoon/night. What is the farthest we'll be able to drive? Any idea or personal beta?
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2010 - 08:54pm PT
|
Nate... got one for ya.
Ground up, onsight 5.9. A little of everything... bolts, slings, cams.
Next time you're up at Crocodile you'll have to sample it. Far left side.
Hope all is well with you and yours,
Tom
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2010 - 10:09pm PT
|
Sweet. Will seeing a pic spoil the experience for me?
Didja sample that beauty R facing 5.8 corner? FA might still be unknown. Heard that's a good one. And Hartmann's "Brother, My Cup is Empty" up the middle sure looked super knobby and fun from what I could see from the pass. I've yet to climb there.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jun 22, 2010 - 05:02pm PT
|
Grahm was on a sport line to the right while I was climbing that sweet "5.8". He took a shot of it but I don't have it.
Old School 5.8 is more like it. I didn't bring enough wide pieces so the top was interesting, ha ha. But yes, it is a sweet line. We referred to it as Crocodile Tears because you get lured in and then eaten up! The traverse from the slick lieback to the hand crack is tricky and thin, the hand crack is awesome 5.7 jams, but the top is rounded 4-5" liebacking.
I don't have pic of the new route, or of anyone on it. But it's slab start (5.9) to a horizontal crack, then up a knobby face (5.6) with bolts and slings, then a slabby mantle (5.7) to a knobby block at the top (25m). As of now it's the route farthest left on the cliff. There was maybe one more face left of that, but it would be 5.6 or easier and much shorter. Hope you get up there next season. Enjoy your week!
T
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Jun 22, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
|
I can't wait to get back out there this year. I still need to make a first trip to those tasty pools.
Man, that place is so awesome....uhhhh, no it actually really sucks, that place is a chossfest with contaminated water.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jun 22, 2010 - 09:36pm PT
|
Jeremy, Great to meet you man, you're one lucky guy living right there! You and your bro were so chill. Good luck on your project. Looks fun and hard.
Here is a basic topo of those two routes I was talking about Nate...
There are a bunch of other worthy routes there too.
It looks like my route goes up by a crack, but it's really a wide gash, and wasn't as fun to climb as the knobby face out left.
edit: Hartman says the 5.8 goes in two pitches. I tried to do it in one and got shut down about 20' from the top (ran out of cams) and that's probably why it felt harder than 5.8 to me a guess. If I had had one more #2 and one more #3 I'd have had it in the bag in one long pitch. Dang. Walk off left is easy.
Looks good eh!?
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2010 - 01:23am PT
|
cool share, Tom. Thanks.
Yea, by now those Ross brothers must have many dozens of fine routes to their credit in that neck of the woods.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2010 - 12:45pm PT
|
yeah that and they help carry your gear, offer to recharge batteries, and point the way to new walls. Talk about local hospitality! If only local surfers were that cool, ha ha.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2010 - 12:58am PT
|
Jeremy, check your email...
|
|
stella
climber
cali
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2010 - 08:03pm PT
|
maybe a stupid question but....is the road open? or potentially open by 4th of july weekend?
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2010 - 10:25pm PT
|
Many crags off the Minarets Rd are open (which rd. you wondering about?) but Central Pass won't be open for awhile.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:10pm PT
|
Took advantage of all that snow out there last weekend... but damn, that first bolt is gona be way up there for whomever does the second ascent.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Jun 25, 2010 - 02:49pm PT
|
We had a go at Whiskey Bill on Wamello this past Friday night.
Got to within a mile and a half before we came around a corner and saw this.
A couple climbers tuck for FOUR HOURS diggin out thier Subie. We yanked 'em out in three minutes and saved the day....Night. It was 8PM!
Fortunately we came prepared not to get stuck or shut down.
We were racked and rollin by 8:30 and at the top of the ridge by sunset. The quads were money! (I made Nate ride my seven year old son's 90.)
Drifts were encountered every 300 yards for the last couple miles. You cannot drive fully into the "parking lot" as of this week.
We were at the base by 9PM....but it was the Solstice and we got to rack up just in time for the sun to fully peter out.
I racked up in the dark and we had a blast by headlamp. Five fun and varied pitches of supercool chickenheads and moderate cracks.
Made it to the summit by 11:30 in time to Karate Chop the Moon.
Back on the Quads by midnight.
Home in Fresno by 2:00am.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Jun 25, 2010 - 03:18pm PT
|
Interesting trip there, Micro.
Thanks for the road update!
|
|
Mungeradomas
Gym climber
Deep State of Philosophical Mind Bending
|
|
|
Jun 25, 2010 - 04:25pm PT
|
I predict:
a new trend in climbing approach equipment
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jun 26, 2010 - 12:17am PT
|
I doubt it
|
|
stella
climber
cali
|
|
|
Jun 26, 2010 - 09:06pm PT
|
sorry, i meant is the road into shuteye open yet?
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jun 26, 2010 - 09:20pm PT
|
yes and no
To Big Sleep, Crocodile, etc. - yes
To Gray etc. - yes
To High Eagle, Dreamscape, Shangri La etc. - no
Shuteye is vast and there are many roads leading to paradise
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Jun 27, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
|
By the way...we only took the quads to the parking spot at Fresno Dome. No wilderness travel, to those who might have thought we were playing foul.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Jun 29, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
|
Awesome TR Micro! Way to go prepared and make dreams come true.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jun 29, 2010 - 03:36pm PT
|
Anyone know for certain about the roads to High Eagle/LE? Still closed/snowed in really? Last update was 3 days ago, but can't believe this winter is taking forever to thaw.
Yup, Micro, fun TR on night climbing! Lots of light cast by the last full moon!
Zander, Shuteye does offer a lot of especially nice wide climbs!
Here are photos showing more snow banks at the start of the base of climbs.... just to prove Tork right.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 29, 2010 - 08:51pm PT
|
Eschers Way!
|
|
two2tandem
Trad climber
BASS LAKE, CA
|
|
|
Jun 29, 2010 - 11:28pm PT
|
Drove down Grizzly yesterday. Still some decent snow patches at the turnoff from Beasore on the side of the road, but the main road is clear. Didn't try to get down to Lost Eagle, but from the looks of things I would be surprised if you didn't still hit a few small snow patches in the shade once you turn off Grizzly. It's been HOT here the last couple of days and I am guessing most of everything will be cleared up by this weekend. Either way you can definitely get close enough to walk if you are motivated to add 30 minutes to the approach.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2010 - 01:30am PT
|
Jeff? Did you guys do it? What did you think?
two2tandem - Thank you much for the update!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2010 - 09:26am PT
|
Sue, we did the first 2 pitches, kinda a low energy day. Both were great! The last move on P2, in your face, took me a while. I kept trying to find a way to reach those good holds at the end, 2" to short, without stepping up. All I can say is that wall is stacked with gems.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2010 - 10:29am PT
|
Nice Jeff! Amazing how clean and good the second pitch in particular is...
You would probably like the 3rd and 4th too. Esp. the 4th.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2010 - 11:47am PT
|
I talked to Matt last night and I think LE should be no problem. Heading out in a few hours :)
kev
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2010 - 08:19pm PT
|
Who else is heading out to SoYo this weekend?
Kev, do you have Valley Giants?
Jeff
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2010 - 09:02pm PT
|
Spenser, Chris and crew are coming up from SF. Albert and guiding crew are gonna be partying up there. Tom, Mike and Brent are coming up. I'll be up Saturday and Monday. Kev, John, and Sue I assume will be you know where...what are your plans? I am thinking High Eagle/ 50 5.7's on Saturday and showing people around Crocodile on Monday.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2010 - 09:33pm PT
|
Hey Grahm! Lots going on. 50 5.7s sounds fun, still a few there I haven't done. Would also like to bump into Albert and crew. And the shades of Gray is allways calling. Gotta finish John and Sue's route Eschers Way. Of course I also have my eye on a few things out there.
Put anything new up?
Jeff
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2010 - 11:35pm PT
|
Snow? What snow?
Something new.
Thank heavens summer is here!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Alright! We might just get upto High Eagle and 50-5.7s finally!
Grahm, I'll bet Kev's on the road already. I heard he was going up to meet Matt and you...
John and I and a few friends including hopefully Jeff... hope to mix it up. Go to Gray... but also check out higher ground. Hopefully our Toyota makes it to the High Eagle area and other places... Maybe we'll all cross paths at some point!
P.S. Tork - looking forward to seeing you on Escher's! :)
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Thanks Susan, I will see you and John out there for sure! 50 5.7s has the 2 best 10+ sport routes have done anywhere. Also a few other fun routes and a few newish routes that Grahm put up that I have yet to do.
Tom, where's something new? You heading up for the weekend?
Grahm, where and what are your latest new routes? You have a topo for
50 5.7s
Jeff
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
I'll bring what I have up with me. For 50 5.7's its just a list of all the routes with a description. I haven't drawn in the routes on the photos yet. Hope to see ya all on Saturday for High Eagle / 50 5.7's double crag day.
In other news Jeremy Ross from North Fork broke his ankle playing softball. His climbing season has been cut short but send him some positive vibes for a quick recovery. If you haven't met him he is a really cool local with a chill vibe and life long love of the area.
Jeremy and his brother Justin have been getting back in to shape with me out at Crocodile the last few weeks. I have been filling in the last few lines left I wanted to do. Heading up today to hopefully send the latest one. Theres almost 20 routes out there now. How about you guys any new classics finished?
Heres a link to the full slideshow (copy / paste into browser) if you want to check it out and a few pics from the series below...
http://s625.photobucket.com/albums/tt336/sierraclimber1/6-20 24 26-10 Crocodile Dome/?albumview=slideshow
|
|
HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
|
|
Home in Fresno by 2:00am.
As long as you were climbing in the night, a shame you were in such a hurry. Was a beautiful lunar eclipse starting about 3:30 AM.
Otherwise Well Done!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
So around 17+ folks converging on Shuteye in one long weekend...
Let the spray commence! :)
Bet Grahm's Shuteye Shuttle Bus was busy. (fun pic earlier)
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Only 3 cars at High Eagle camp overnight on Saturday. Last year there were 20 cars (mostly due to the Toyota commercial shoot) Seems Shuteye is more sleepy this year.
Jeff and I went over to 50 5.7's where he onsighted some of my new routes and I got to try Cruising Blackstone one of the best 10d face climbs I have ever sampled.
Heres an FA pic from Monday of - Poacher 11b
|
|
Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
|
|
Grahm, I'm stoked you liked C.B! Did you check out the continuation over the roof at the top? Where's Poacher?
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
Not a sole in sight on nightw#tch last thursday when Matt and I put up a route. It did however get it's second ascent friday by Drew and his partner!
What did you two think of P2?
Pics coming soon...
kev
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Urmas, Cruising Blackstone and the other 10 to the left are two of the best sport routes I have done anywhere. Thanks!
Jeff
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
Pics coming soon...
You always say that....tease! Post 'em!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Jul 10, 2010 - 02:39pm PT
|
Hey Urmas,
I did look at the extension. Looks like maybe 3 more bolts up an overhanging knob covered finish. Doesn't look like it will change the grade of the climb. Its going to make an already amazing climb that much more unbelievable. I'll get to it someday.
Poacher is out at Crocodile. Just fa'd a new one there yesterday. "Don't Take It For Granite" 11c/d. Pulls a roof using a heel toe lock in a water runnel. Then climbs up a deep featured water groove. Maybe we can get some pics of it this weekend.
You heading up to Shuteye this summer?
|
|
Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2010 - 09:30pm PT
|
I've been busy, but will have more time starting this week. I'm concerned that temps will be climbing by weeks end. If it's not too hot, maybe I can get over for a few days.
|
|
Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2010 - 09:31pm PT
|
I've been busy, but will have more time starting this week. I'm concerned that temps will be climbing by weeks end. If it's not too hot, maybe I can get over for a few days.
|
|
Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
|
|
|
Jul 16, 2010 - 04:10pm PT
|
Hey folks
Thanks for all the hard work you're doing out there and hope that more people start to get out there to enjoy all the routes you're putting up for them.
I'm trying to get some info on "Captain Obvious," the line Grahm and Matt put up a long while ago at Grey Eagle. Also, any other info on moderate 5.7-5.9 routes. We're going up to check out the route Tom put up on Big Sleep in a few weeks and I'd like to climb some other moderate fun stuff.
Am I guessing that I should just skim through this thread of over 1000+ posts to get any beta/topos or is there other info around that I can find?
Thanks a lot and great work up there
Edit for below: Got it, thanks Tom!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jul 16, 2010 - 04:30pm PT
|
Mason, check your email.
Tom
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jul 17, 2010 - 12:29am PT
|
Mason -
Get with Matt on Capt. Obvious on the real deal. For the record, its NOT so obvious.
Hey Matt -
Did you ever get out to the Dark Helmet?? Hope you're keepin' that in reserve, nahmeen?
|
|
Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2010 - 03:23am PT
|
That's what I heard. Apparently, it's pretty real.
My motto: You gotta crawl before you walk. Or is it, do or die?
Is Matt Schultz on the taco? I met the guy in Courtright. Pretty solid dude.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2010 - 11:14am PT
|
That's what I heard. Apparently, it's pretty real.
My motto: You gotta crawl before you walk. Or is it, do or die?
Look, Jackson, SoYo is overwhelming.....ya just gotta go DO IT!!!!
Grey Eagle blew my mind the first time I saw it. That place is unreal....
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2010 - 11:25am PT
|
Cool place, sir Milktoast.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2010 - 08:36pm PT
|
yes... the Grey area... best to just climb there, tons to do. Don't bother with the rest. It's choss.
The natural line continues with plenty of pro. It's a tiny bit dirty but not a munge fest. It ends at a horizontal crack (which takes gear) between the two bolted anchors. If it hasn't been done, guess it should be called the "The Direct Kev Variation." It's pretty mellow, can't be harder than 5.6 but does follow the natural line. Kev... just to clarify, the "natural line" is The Lucky Number. If was done the same time I did Thief in the Night. But you can call if whatever you like :)
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
|
Tom,
Hehe, I was pretty sure it had been done......
DMT,
That thing is dark and dirty..but an adventure!
kev
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2010 - 11:31pm PT
|
Big day yesterday/this morning. Mini photo trip report.
Started off with some river fun at Whiskey Falls on the way to Crocodile and Big Sleep dome.
Then up to Crocodile to climb some routes on the main wall and then off to add a new one to the lower wall.
Mike on Runnelicious 10a
Then FA'd a new one to its right Runnelrama 10b
Watched the sun set and the moon rise.
Then Justin and I hiked up to Big Sleep and started climbing a new one to the right of Moonlight Madness. We left the parking lot at 10:30pm. Stoked to try another fa on the wall by moonlight.
Ground up we added 2 new pitches on the far right side of the dome. The third pitch was really tough and had to start aiding to make progress up the steep wall. This really slowed us down. We didn't have the right gear and with dawn fast approaching we rapped back down totally tapped out. The weather was great though. I was in a tshirt all night and we got to work on our moon tans. Got back down and watched the moon set and the sun rise. whew!
Insomnia - 5.8 - 2 pitches - Follow the far right side of the dome and up to the start. It starts under the large overhanging nose 2 pitches higher.
P1*** 5.8 - 50m - 11 bolts, 1.25” cam, ring anchor - Climb up the ramp and weave through cool shallow dishes working your way up through golden stone. The anchor is on a small comfy ledge.
P2** 5.7 - 60m - 6 bolts, 3” cam and 1” to 1.5” gear, ring anchor - Head up and left from the anchor on black rock. Link together some great shallow pockets and head up to the left side of the roof system. Pull over the left side of the roof (3” cam) and follow two bolts up the good features to a short finger crack (1” cams) head right a little and into the dihedral to the anchor.
P3 project - Climb up the steep face to a dihedral on the left side of the overhanging nose. We'll be back!
FA Grahm Doe, Justin Ross 7-2010
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2010 - 12:43am PT
|
Super cool. Great effort and high adventure!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2010 - 01:18am PT
|
Insomnia - 5.8 - 2 pitches - Follow the far right side of the dome and up to the start. It starts under the large overhanging nose 2 pitches higher.
P1*** 5.8 - 50m - 11 bolts, 1.25” cam, ring anchor - Climb up the ramp and weave through cool shallow dishes working your way up through golden stone. The anchor is on a small comfy ledge.
P2** 5.7 - 60m - 6 bolts, 3” cam and 1” to 1.5” gear, ring anchor - Head up and left from the anchor on black rock. Link together some great shallow pockets and head up to the left side of the roof system. Pull over the left side of the roof (3” cam) and follow two bolts up the good features to a short finger crack (1” cams) head right a little and into the dihedral to the anchor.
P3 project - Climb up the steep face to a dihedral on the left side of the overhanging nose. We'll be back!
FA Grahm Doe, Justin Ross 7-2010
Texture of that rock looks awesome!
question on the 'FA' though...
should it read like this? :)
Insomnia - 5.8 - 2 pitches - Follow the far right side of the dome and up to the start. It starts under the large overhanging nose 2 pitches higher.
P1*** 5.8 - 50m - 11 bolts, 1.25” cam, ring anchor - Climb up the ramp and weave through cool shallow dishes working your way up through golden stone. The anchor is on a small comfy ledge.
P2** 5.7 - 60m - 6 bolts, 3” cam and 1” to 1.5” gear, ring anchor - Head up and left from the anchor on black rock. Link together some great shallow pockets and head up to the left side of the roof system. Pull over the left side of the roof (3” cam) and follow two bolts up the good features to a short finger crack (1” cams) head right a little and into the dihedral to the anchor.
FA Grahm Doe, Justin Ross 7-2010
P3 project - Climb up the steep face to a dihedral on the left side of the overhanging nose. We'll be back!
|
|
socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2010 - 12:47pm PT
|
Cool pics Grahm.
That Lower Croc Rock face looks pretty cool. I love that there is potential for so much amazing moderate climbing to be done up there. While I have enjoyed many of the high end sport routes at Shuteye, I think it's the quality and proliferation of moderate routes that will ultimately put the place on the map.
Hoping to see you in another month or two - it's been far too long.
Louie
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2010 - 12:55pm PT
|
Yup, you got it Munge. Still feeling fuzzy and tired from "No Sleep on the Big Sleep" as Justin would say. Surprised I even typed some semi coherent sentences yesterday. But I guess thats nothing new :-)
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2010 - 01:54pm PT
|
All,
The down log blocking the last bit of the drive to LE was removed Sunday.
kev
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2010 - 05:04pm PT
|
Kev, by you? If so, thank you. It takes a village. Grahm, how hard will pitch 3 be do you think? I take it Justin's back is better. Good for him. Jeremy hope that leg heals fast. Grahm needs partners :)
And Louie is combing back. Grahm, things are looking up for you.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2010 - 06:28pm PT
|
Well "E" for effort anyway! We all do our part, eh? Even the pine cone huggers. Never been to Lost Eagle or the Balls... How was it? Someday soon. So much out there to see and do.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2010 - 06:33pm PT
|
I had a blast, Slater. Lots of stone at both places....
The pine cone dude was really nice.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2010 - 08:36pm PT
|
Lots of stone at both places....
Before you get all excited about the "lots of stone" part, be sure to get a current topo from Nate D regarding The Lost....30 plus sport and trad routes, ranging from 5.7 to .12a. Should be plenty to play on for a lifetime. Nahmeen? ;)
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2010 - 09:19pm PT
|
Bluey - you mean this bad boy?
Charming Dawn says thumbs up too!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2010 - 09:32pm PT
|
I gotta look at the topos, Ricky. For once we were just walking up to stuff and saying, "I'll do that one!". Weird place, but very cool....(well, it was hot but cool in a cool sense, nawmean?")
The pine cone collector's dog reminded me of your dog, Bear....big, kinda friendly, but cool.
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2010 - 09:54pm PT
|
Ah yes - Nellie the Bear - tis a noble beast indeed.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2010 - 10:19pm PT
|
Funny how just a bit ago we were all praying for the snow to melt...
Plenty of sun and rock now baby!
Another new one.
|
|
Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2010 - 10:07am PT
|
Kev-
Thanks for taking us to those very cool spots. Had a great time and got a taste of Shuteye.
Happy to get the 2nd ascent of your new route, too. We got our AKA (haha) name down and ready to put up a little trip report if you want to send me the pic you took of us.
Edris
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2010 - 11:49am PT
|
Mooch,
Until I am directed otherwise by those involved that topo is not public nor are the directions...
kev
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2010 - 04:22pm PT
|
Until I am directed otherwise by those involved that topo is not public nor are the directions...
True statement (to a degree), my lightest of bier swizzler friend.
However, the Five Amigos have consented to letting this baby walk on its own. So, if one were to inquire by asking for a topo, one of the boyz would email out a topo....if the askee were to say "pretty please with buggers on it."
Just sayin' that Lost is "complete"....no need for more additions. Don't need a Riverside Quarry up in these parts!
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2010 - 04:40pm PT
|
mooch,
Nice. I prolly still wouldn't give it out even if directed to. Occasional tour guide is one thing, pimp is another. Hell the topo doesn't do any good without the directions anyhow. I even made a wrong turn the other day and I've been there a bunch :)
FYI: I found my way out to Cowboy Crag (aka Jackass Butte) the other day. It's not to far from another swimming hole and looks like there could be some slabby fun to be had there :)
You been out much this year?
kev
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2010 - 06:04pm PT
|
ha ha, they better be big mtn. trail boogers...
Jeremy, you gonna be around Saturday?
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jul 28, 2010 - 12:48am PT
|
kev -
Nope. Been away from the Eye most of the year doing a few things outside of climbing (cycling stuff mostly) . Prolly get out there Sept/Oct....we'll see. Been chatting with Brother Mucci. The Triple Threat is brewing plans for a wall trip! Dry ice wall cooler = Munge Gatoritas!! Anyway, Josh sent a few photos from 'Scarface' on Liberty. Sweet Lord!
JR -
Wanna swap boogers?? Hope all is well wit cha!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2010 - 06:29pm PT
|
swapping boogers and getting lost is what it's all about!
NIce pics Grahm and all. I've got Runnel Vision™©® now.
Kev and friends,
Any tradsters done the 2nd ascent of "The Yodeler Indirect" (or Direct) on the Matterhorn yet? Downgraded to 5.6?
email me with details.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2010 - 06:34pm PT
|
Nate, maybe this weekend. I've got a few questions for you about another line too. I'll email you next week (I know you've heard that before).
Hope all is well with you!
kev
|
|
Bschmitz
Ice climber
mountain view
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2010 - 06:54pm PT
|
Anyone want to go back and climb some more. I am ready to go grounf up again. Heard that my/our route wounded soilders got a repeat this last weekend. How did you guys like it? I want to go back to the BALLS or big sleep! pm or email
bryan_schmitzATyahoo.com
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2010 - 08:16am PT
|
Downgraded to 5.6?
haha!! Aren't you full of piss and vinegar (hmmm....good route name!) Mr. Nate. I'll have to find a dirty lichen chocked chimney and call it 'The Boogler Direct'.....hoping that it will check in a "5.6". What next?....Power To The People, 4th class "plus"?
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
|
Nater - you just shamelessly sandbagged me :)
Mooch - Power to the People 4th plus - nice!
Anyone headed up this weekend?
|
|
Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2010 - 02:27pm PT
|
Bschmitz
It was a nice moderate route. I had fun on it. Although we did end up doing some major bushwacking on the way down because we went the wrong way.
Kev
My bad I keep missing your call dude. We're headed to Mt. Diablo tomorrow if you don't go up this weekend.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
|
Being a terrible crack climber, what I would call 5.9 is 5.6 to Kev and Valley regulars. Clear? No sandbagging here.
JR,
You'll have to be more specific, or email me about the "routes" (complete and incomplete) on the left side of the Matterhorn and/or right end of the block Grahm calls the Bonus Wall. (Or is it now the Warming Wall?). EDIT: OR are you referring to routes on the far left of the Melting Wall, before you get to the Matterhorn proper?
Kev,
Get off the taco and just email me now... :)
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2010 - 04:59pm PT
|
Nate,
I ain't strong at all right now. Been fighting tendinitis and beeritis this year :)
Ok I'm outa here!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Jeremy, thanks for loaning me your brother! He found us a shortcut worm hole!
Justin, great day, fun climbing with you and plucking some FAs. See you again in a few weeks!
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
Went out for a Dawn Patrol run up The Golden Toad (West Face) this weekend. Had to be back in Fresno by 10:30, so we were rolling by 4:00am. Met Kev and a ladyfriend (sorry, forgot your name!) at the cars on our way down. Fun to meet some more of the So Yo crowd.
Take a peek at our low budge film. I just bought Cedar Wright's solo album off of Vertical Carnival. Its good stuff for home-made ghetto films like mine.
Enjoy.
http://vimeo.com/13816624
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
CA
|
|
Kev and his gal friend are good peeps...Nice show, Scott!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Fun Vimeo Micronut!
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
I can confirm that at 9ish two dudes were returning from a climb. I was puzzled but learned that yup it's the 4am boys!
Bluey, not my GF. I've returned to singledom!
Good to meet you two. When I get a chance I'll email you the pics.
kev
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Micro... nicely done. If any of you haven't seen it, you should. If I was a visual arts teacher I'd give you an A+ for something original. Very cool.
Here it is again so you don't have to flip back a page...
http://vimeo.com/13816624
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Aug 13, 2010 - 09:38am PT
|
Kiddies-
gonna be out near the pools at LE this weekend. No climbing : ( Camping with my daughter and going out to do "extended hikes" (nahmeen? ; ). If the Grey Crew is in the neighborhood, swing by the camp Saturday evening. Pretty sure Tiki-ger will be in tow with his boys.
kev- if you come, I'll treat you to some REAL beer to clear up that nasty case of beeritis.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Aug 13, 2010 - 11:34am PT
|
Hey JR! I might just do that. Sunday late lunch me thinks. Can you join up around 1pm? Cervesas fo sho. Can you get out in October JR? Some of the boys are talkin it up and thinking about other things in October.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Aug 13, 2010 - 11:53am PT
|
EVERYONE is gettin' more than you JR! and sorry to hear about your rope. You are cursed this year... but I'm sure you'll make up for it.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Aug 13, 2010 - 12:21pm PT
|
Dave,
I was going to be there but my ankle is kinda not happy with me (not to mention the elbow) - bummer. I may be taking some extended time off to hang out with the neighborhood ankle and elbow surgeons in the near future...
):
kev
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 13, 2010 - 02:34pm PT
|
mooch,
Wish I could be there with my boys. Watch out for buzzworms, bro.
I'm sure you and Ger could squeeze in some bouldering...
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 13, 2010 - 02:49pm PT
|
Mooch, Hi! Heading out today and bringing a friend who has never been to Gray and area. For sure, we'll be there at least Saturday, maybe Sunday too, but would like to get to High Eagle as well if it works out. Since LE is on the way, maybe the three of us could stop for a quick visit by the pools if not Sat. evening for beers then Sun. a.m. for coffee? Don't know though, this friend is pretty motivated to climb! Anyhow, would love to catch up and say hi w/y'all! Well, now you'll know where we'll be if you happen to checkout the old Gray hood! Wonderful that you'll be enjoying the area w/your daughter!!!
Kev - Hi... thought I heard you were heading up just to hang out. Sorry to hear you're ailing. Get better soon. :)
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Aug 13, 2010 - 03:25pm PT
|
Dearest Susu....Finally!! Been almost a year since we saw each other. Not to sound selfish but I'm a little bummed I'm not climbing this weekend. And it would have been fun tying into the sharp end with ya! Anyway, its all good. Need to do some camping time with my 15 yr old before she goes back to school and catch up with ol Tiki-Ger. So, you'll be up in the gully, on the north side of Grey??
We'll probably be at the pools on Sat. afternoon and then off to "explore" the upper reaches of northern S-Eye later on. Beers fer shure when you come up Sat. evening!
Nater -
Wish you were coming! Let's try to get a rendevous going in mid to late Oct. I think Grahm is doing a slide show/"climb-a-thon" thing in mid Oct....interested. No guarantees from me on when in October to plan our get-together. As you know, we got "work" to do. :) It's time for our "baby" to walk on its own and off for us to raise another "youngin"....
Kev -
Sorry to hear that brutha. :( I have a tendon in my right shoulder that is making it difficult to bench press/bench fly's or pull heavy from one side. If its any kind of motivation, Bill Sherman (dood who jacked his ankle and had to be rescued near the base of CRS) is doing Zodiac in 2 weeks. Fun times standing in etriers for hours at a time! susu and I will toast a beer in your absence.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 13, 2010 - 03:43pm PT
|
Ok, catch if can...! Sat afternoon we'll prolly be at base of Gray for some pitches on Escher's (far right), then turn around and directly across the creek/gully, up Friendly Skies to Pink Balloon once shady... hopefully hopefully...
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 19, 2010 - 01:37pm PT
|
Sorry we missed ya Mooch! Got augered in at Gray camp and back to camp Sat. night suprisingly late. No, no good epic stories, just a full value day without wrist watches. Sunday Jeff showed and rounded out our party of 3 very niceley for another full day. When you heading up again?
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2010 - 12:27am PT
|
So I heard from a ranger buddy that there was a pot farm in the woods that got taken down recently in the general vicinity of Queens Throne, off approach road that eventually goes up to High Eagle. Not near the crags, much before. Dude, wouldn't wanna run into those farmers while out on a hike. Anyone else hear about this?
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
|
Susu -
There's a possibility of heading out to dah Eye Sept 18/19th weekend with mucci. But there may be a trip out to Hoffman Mtn that same weekend with Munge and a few others. I haven't heard the confirmation date to that trip yet (not sure if it changed). We were obligated to go out there first but I ran into finance issues earlier this month (only to find out later on that we have fundage to support that trip....yippee!!). If we do go up to Shuteye, I've got something in mind that he (mucci) and I can work on....its NOT what you think Nate ;)
I also intend to make a 3 or 4 day trip up there in mid-to-late Oct. Did Grahm mention the Shuteye challenge gig (including a slideshow)? Not sure if you've seen him lately. Grahm? Details sir.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2010 - 06:03pm PT
|
Slater,
I hadn't heard, but last year, near one of the creeks you cross on the way up, I noticed water that looked like it was being diverted. My first thought was to check it out. My instant second thought was, I see nothing. Also noticed an out of place car near there several times???
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2010 - 12:01am PT
|
Mooch & Mucci, Keep us posted! Where you thinking? LE, Gray...? Just looked up Hoffman Mountain in the John Muir Wild... Is that the right Mt? Looks nice! Esp. the abundance of berries in Sept.
Add: Tx Bluey!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2010 - 12:09am PT
|
Geez, have fun guys and gals...that place is awesome.
Overwhelming is a better word. Wish I could go but I gots the family ties now.
Maybe in Sept or Oct...
Don't do anything I would do. Err...whatever.....have fun and be safe!!!!
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2010 - 12:44am PT
|
I heard a rumor that you guys beat up poor ablegabel out there...
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2010 - 03:55am PT
|
Hi Ed! We might have tried, but he kept on tick'n! Great fun! Hopefully you'll be down for a visit sometime?
Here on Cage Match
Jeff & Eric on Escher's
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2010 - 01:21pm PT
|
susu -
"I can neither confirm nor deny that inquiry." :) PMing you soon.
Hoffman Mtn....another gem
Munge working the FA of 'Burninator' (.10c). Tasty, no? ;)
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
|
Sweet! Nice job Munge!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2010 - 02:39pm PT
|
Yea, doesn't this just look exquisite (and so similar to the best of Shuteye and the Obelisk knob pulling)? 4 pitches and no bolts. Good going Bruce, Em, and all!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2010 - 03:27am PT
|
Nice! Looks very much like the sort of rock we've been seeing around Shuteye w/surprisingly good, creative gear even for face climbing - cam and nut placements between solid knob rails, knob slinging w/slip knots, intermittent cracks, cams and tricams in holes...
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2010 - 03:42am PT
|
"4 pitches and no bolts"
Game on .
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2010 - 11:58am PT
|
Amazing where you can go in shuteye without bolts.
Hoffman looks killer.
Mucci
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
"Properties" whore. Nice.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
mmmmmm, I feel all warm inside.
Hoffman, yummy knobs.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2010 - 12:15am PT
|
Anytime.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2010 - 04:47pm PT
|
Not sure if you got my email but I won't be able to make it this weekend. :(
Planning on the end of October to spend at least 3 days there. Prolly puttin' in some work....
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2010 - 10:47pm PT
|
Munge, you never told us...
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2010 - 11:45pm PT
|
We have that bucket at moms place. :)
not us tho.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2010 - 12:04am PT
|
mom's place that biker bar off Hwy 108 that you always hang out at?
It'd make for a great pick up line though back in college...
"yeah, I make buckets"
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2010 - 12:17am PT
|
It’s been a while for fresh pix from me so here are a few I just finished getting ready of Crocodile Rock…
and heres a link to more pix from that day if your interested.
http://s625.photobucket.com/albums/tt336/sierraclimber1/8-27-10%20Crocodile%20Dome/?albumview=slideshow
I will be hosting an SSCA “Southern Sierra Climbers Association” gathering the weekend of October 16th. Everyone’s invited. I will be providing topos to the near by crags of Big Sleep, Crocodile and the newly developed Fish Dome (Thanks Tom!). Theres multi pitch, gear, sport routes and bouldering all with in reach of the camping area. So bring your gear, favorite beverage, salsa and your will to win the Shuteye Survivor Challenge. (This years challenge yet to be announced :-))
This area is accessible by 2 wheel drive cars and there is plenty of room for lots of campers. We are also working on a slide show presentation for Saturday night. So if you’ve been waiting to check out this area or Shuteye in general here’s your personal invitation. I’ll post up directions to the camping area soon.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2010 - 12:24am PT
|
Ho man...that sounds like a good time. I might just try and hook up with yall. Thanks for all the effort in puttin up good stuff up there.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2010 - 12:51am PT
|
Maybe a good climber's clean up after too eh? I noticed the broken bottles in some of the fire rings are starting to pile up, and that ain't good. Let's leave the slab camp spic n span. Nice shootin' Grahm. Here are some fish scales to add to the mix...
Bring your slings.
And Micro... bring that video camera of yours and make another one of them academy award winning climber flicks.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2010 - 09:22am PT
|
Nice shots boys! A gathering out there sounds fun.
I've been out there a bit lately also. Last weekend we did a ground up ascent of a knoby face but found a single bolt on top with a red sling? Grahm? Slater?
Jeff
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2010 - 12:40pm PT
|
yep, guilty
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2010 - 12:41pm PT
|
Oh ya, thats definitely mine! Now, how do you get out there again??? ;-)
Looks like another amazing wall Jeff! Of course Tom has already played on it!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2010 - 04:20pm PT
|
Nice photos you guys! Here's a photo report of yet more new climb activity on the ridge this summer, including one for those who love the wide, of which there is plenty at Shuteye:
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2010 - 04:39pm PT
|
beautimous!
(sigh)
Is the 5.9 on Minerva, susu?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2010 - 05:02pm PT
|
Looks like Red Eagle to me. Thank god you guys are doing the wide. I don't want to have to! hehe
Sleeping Giant is a GREAT name, good work guys and gals! That last one of Tork has me stumped though...
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2010 - 05:06pm PT
|
But this is kinda wide, in a different way, no? :)
Great shot, BTW.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2010 - 05:11pm PT
|
Nice shots susu! Sadly, I'd have to "mooch" gear to give the Sleeping Giant a go (own nothing bigger than a 3.5).
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2010 - 05:25pm PT
|
Tx guys! Yes... that's the goddess of war & wisdom formation. Mooch, sorry to hear you won't be making it to Shuteye this weekend. Maybe we'll get to meet up w/you and the mrs. in October though... If you ever would like to borrow said gear to check this out, or Pink Balloon, CageMatch... we would be happy to provide... and prolly join ya! Bought a Valley Giant just for the occasion... for when John & Jeff teamed up and first climbed the Sleeping Giant. Actually, that's Jeff's big bro John's using in the top photo. Gear to 9" is recommended... No fixed pro or bolts on the giant.
Edit: It takes gear to 8", not 9".
|
|
Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2010 - 07:27pm PT
|
This is Great, I would like to add some of my stupid photos.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2010 - 07:52pm PT
|
Purdy stuff Blitzo!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2010 - 11:49pm PT
|
yes Blitzo... you have Balls.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2010 - 12:44am PT
|
Yow, Nate's climb looks, Groovy! Sleeping giant, too!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2010 - 12:45am PT
|
swanky
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2010 - 01:47am PT
|
Jaybro I believe you mean Grahm's climb looks groovy.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2010 - 02:15am PT
|
Grab your partner(s) and come meet us out there, Jay! It's not a crazed raging drunkfest w/guns shooting off... If anything, it's almost too quiet these days! :)
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2010 - 02:33am PT
|
It's not a crazed raging drunkfest w/guns shooting off
BWHAAAAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!!
Those were the days...
Great shots everyone! I Have not had a standard climbing year, which would include a summer in the soyo. Sad indeed, but the crew is puttin up gems.
When is this gig Graham? I wouldn't mind hanging with the group.
Cheers!
Mucci
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2010 - 09:54am PT
|
Mucci???? Mucci??? Huh? Name kinda rings a bell?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2010 - 12:13pm PT
|
hmmm, no guns?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2010 - 01:31pm PT
|
(It's not a crazed raging drunkfest w/guns shooting off!)
Your talking about some of the hunters that are running around SoYo right?
Mucci, its the weekend of October 16th. Hope u can make it.
Nate, yup thats definitely a different kinda wide. ;-) It involves face climbing the sides and NO Big Bros, just a sprinkling of sport bolts.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2010 - 01:58pm PT
|
I dunno... I've seen some wack locals firing off some mortars out there :) don't underestimate them locals, they always force me to sleep with one eye open and my nut tool under my pillow
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
|
Oh ya, I forgot about that! hehe I was only half drunk and things that go BOOM are fun!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2010 - 02:44pm PT
|
So truth be told, Jaybro - Shuteye's got it all! Kind of like going up Sonora Pass in that respect...
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2010 - 03:17pm PT
|
Hey, I think "Runnel Vision" is on my list of potential route names, Tork. Great minds think alike, hehe.
Though I'll eventually be needing them, I might be willing to loan out my used Big Bros for any wide FA follies... or fending off the local mountain lions.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2010 - 06:34pm PT
|
susu - real possibility of showing up on Sunday...
can you email me details of where to go? never been there...
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2010 - 07:08pm PT
|
Ed! Wonderful! We'll pm you shortly! -s
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2010 - 07:14pm PT
|
ok, I'm at work for the moment.. but I'll see my email once I get home...
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Sep 27, 2010 - 03:41pm PT
|
Roger Breedlove - tell us the FA story!
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2010 - 12:27am PT
|
A Quick Trip to Shuteye Ridge
TR September 19, 2010
Well as the chatter in this part of the expanding SoYo thread attests,
I made it out to Shuteye Ridge, the guest of susu and her guy John...
what a wonderful place and two of the best hosts one could wish to have.
I scoped out the approach using Google Earth, especially the part past North Fork along the Scenic Bypass Highway.
What an amazing landscape!
this is a land of domes, in the interior of the Sierra range, and mostly left alone by climbers
Looking out to the east, towards Mammoth Mountain...
The cliffs I was headed for were closer at hand, with many others near by
these cliffs were peeking out between the trees all along the drive... so much rock
Eventually spot the sign to the dirt road
which takes an interesting passage up towards the ridge, first along a relatively mild dirt road until you take the left fork
up a series of steep dirt slopes to get to the rough camp
and breakfast time!
It took about as long to get there as driving to Tuolumne Meadows... only I hadn't spotted anyone on the road for the last hour.
We do the approach hike up to the domes, here is a look at Minerva Dome
the weather here is wonderful, a good day to avoid the potential stuff coming in north of here.
John leads on a new route which he and susu have put up, we do the first pitch at 5.9 to get a first taste of the granite.
I already know I want to come back and climb.
I'm being given the "grand tour" of the cliffs, we wonder down a series of domes, Grey Eagle, Red Eagle, Electric Eagle...
granite, granite and more granite... with so many route possibilities that the head spins
Here susu leads the 5.8 first pitch of Escher's Way
which John and I top rope...
great cracks, texture, and even more possibilities...
The last climb of the day, the 5.10c first pitch of Wanderlust with John cranking what I thought was the crux, right at the first bolt
The light was incredible, as were the clouds blowing across the northern sky all day
it was a perfect day.
John and susu departed that evening and left me all alone... it was so quiet, not even the sound of aircraft overhead...
a near full moon and a sky full of stars.
The rising sun cast a rosy light on the cliffs we had visited the day before
an invitation to return again.
What a place.
Thanks for sharing John and susu! I can't wait to return...
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2010 - 12:39am PT
|
So jealous ED
Those 2 are the best hosts.
The full monty, WHOOOOP!
Great shot of the balls, and the one of gray in the sunset.
Mucci
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2010 - 01:30am PT
|
Ah Ed, we're touched! Was wonderful to share the place with you - someone who fully appreciates it!
What a nice TR and stunning photos! We both had a great day out there with you and look forward
to the next time! There is so much wandering to do, and we've only scratched the surface.
Here's a photo of Ed floating Wanderlust
Hey Mucci... Thanks! We've all been missing you there!
Wow... really love the panorama, Ed!
Added: Tx too Bluey!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2010 - 02:06pm PT
|
Good stuff, Ed. Susu and John ARE great hosts. Good climbers too!
Woo-hoo!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2010 - 03:58pm PT
|
Wonderful shots and TR, Ed!
I beg to differ on the statement "mostly left alone by climbers", though. :) But yes, it's a far cry from the Valley.
I too have prodded Roger B. and RR for the story, so let's all keep the pressure on!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2010 - 05:09pm PT
|
Nice TR and photos. Cool to see the reaction of a Shuteye virgin! Awesome you got the tour from John and Sue.
Don't forget the next tour of the south west end of the ridge is the weekend of October 16th. A different flavor than the Grey area.
|
|
yosguns
climber
Durham, NC
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2010 - 09:57pm PT
|
<3 Thanks for the update! Great photos!
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2010 - 06:15pm PT
|
Hi Ed, Hi Nate,
I climbed in these areas as a guide for Royal at RockCraft. We would do first ascents with clients, which made it more interesting and fun for us. We would give cursory route descriptions that didn’t go much beyond, “Climb the face left of something to a ledge. Work upwards and stretch the rope to a belay ledge. Continue to the top.” Apparently, Royal kept track of these ascents and named the climbs. I might remember the climbing if I revisited, but I cannot remember anything by looking at the pictures. About five years ago, Nate told me about my routes in the area. I pulled out my pictures of the area but never scanned the slides. (Now my scanner is busted.) Is the picture you (Ed) posted something that I did with Royal?
One year George Meyers and I drove down to Southern Yosemite and wandered around. We started up a few things, but I don't remember if we finished anything. We would not have recorded it if we had, unless it was the world's best route. It was vacation climbing as opposed to the projects we were doing in the Valley. I remember it was really fun, and I have a box of slides, but I don't remember any of the climbing. The only thing that sticks in my mine is driving in my white VW station wagon with George. George needed a bottle or can opener and I had a tiny one my key chain, which was attached to the key in the ignition. We were going downhill on a twisty dirt track, so I took the key out of the ignition and figured I would coast until George gave it back. But...there is always a but...the steering wheel was locked. I got the car stopped half way up a dirt embankment. George was not impressed with my driving or decision making. That was probably 1973.
The climbing that was the most fun were the steep, short plugs of really featured rock shown in pictures posted upthread. Really fun stuff.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2010 - 07:19pm PT
|
Awesome Roger! I was BORN in 73. Hats off to one of the original pioneers! Talked with Royal a few months ago and he couldn't recollect any specific info about routes you guys did at Shuteye way back at the dawn of time.
I am working on a guide book so if you get your scanner up and going I would love to present some of your old shots in it. I can also scan them here if you feel comfortable mailing them?
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2010 - 09:55pm PT
|
I believe the route pictured by Ed is "Wither" on Red Eagle Dome or Minerva (don't have my guide handy). I recall you said there was a story behind the name, Roger.
Your pics would be invaluable to locating some of the climbs you did but didn't necessarily record.
Such was the case with one of RR's photos showing Dick Erb on a short unnamed face at the Balls where you guys played.
Grahm,
Cool you've been in contact with RR as well! If he hasn't shared any photos yet, I have a few good scans he sent me, and with permission, there are a couple that would be nice to include in the guide. Ihateplastic (Simon King) who may be reading, also shared a few from BITD around the Incinerator. He could likely cough up more if we both twist his arms!
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2010 - 10:20pm PT
|
Hi Nate, I know that I told you there was a story about Wither, but the story I had in my head was about a climb on the Queen's Throne and the story was just in my head. The picture upthread showing Runnel Vision (great name) reminded me of the climb: steep climbing in and around those deep grooves; lots of stemming and smearing and sometimes really run out. We had to always look cool and collected in front of clients. No whimpering.
Grahm, have you talked to Dick Erb? Dick probably still remembers all the climbs. I would tell you that I will dig out the slides and get them scanned, but you can ask Nate to tell you what happened the last time I said that.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2010 - 10:40pm PT
|
With a story like that, only want to hear more stories, Roger! In the Spencer guide, you're also the lead name on the route called Acorn on the Bastion. Another beautiful formation nearby.
Yes, Wither is on Minerva. The dome farthest south past Red. The Spencer guide also shows Sugine on that FA.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2010 - 01:15am PT
|
Roger is also quite resistant to accepting offers for scanning his slides... the free Hartouni slide scanning offer is still out there...
... as it has been for a quite a few years!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2010 - 02:01am PT
|
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2010 - 02:03am PT
|
Its fun to see history and the present collide like this. And the whole time, rock hasn't changed....The trees are a bit thicker in the waist, the approaches have a little less bushwacking I'm sure. But the stone of Shuteye hasn't even blinked an eyelash in the time between the first pioneers and the new wave. Kinda cool.
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2010 - 09:30am PT
|
Four or five years ago Jeff Lowe started a thread on getting rescued. I offered up this admission which occurred in Southern Yosemite probably at Shuteye Ridge. A cautionary tale to warn-off the siren’s song.
I have mostly tried to stay out of trouble and only have one real rescue tale to tell. But it was such a public humiliation that it cured me of any desire to get strung out without a rope.
RockCraft was organized as a weeklong adventure and for a few years it was held in Southern Yosemite. Royal found these giant boulder-like cliffs that were perfect for teaching. The first time I went there was with the entire RockCraft group--all the clients and all the guides. We were driving along and as we rounded a corner and came out of the trees, we were parked within feet of the prettiest rock anywhere.
Beautifully colored; steep; nice holds.
A paradise.
I was enthralled.
“This must be climbed. Now.” the voice says.
No calculations were necessary. No thoughts intruded. I slip into my shoes and start up. What a glorious find.
Then, the nice holds are just colored rock. I cannot figure out how to reverse. No calculations were employed getting that far.
Melted rock, melted mind.
What a inglorious blunder.
The clients are gathering below, wide-eyed.
Royal is looking a little stern.
"Fake it," I say to myself.
Holy crap. Strung out on unclimbed rock in front of the clients.
"Fake it, man." the inner voice says.
"You are peeling, and you want to fake it????" the other shoulder says.
Several ages later, a savoir, a fellow guide (Pratt or Erb), drops a rope. I convert the pulsations of my sewing machine body into grasping the rope.
Secure, my steely guide-gaze returns.
I run the rope around my waist and deftly tie a one-hand-bowline, finished with a secure overhand.
A teaching moment.
I climb to the top.
Nice rock.
Beautifully colored; steep; nice holds.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2010 - 11:38am PT
|
We have some routes on that side with nothing on them, maybe a rap sling here and there, but makes you wonder if you are FAing.
Anyone convicted by this statement? Hmmmmmmm!
I'll throw this out there (throw me under the bus later)....
Do your "homework" first beforehand......nahmeen?! ;)
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2010 - 01:20pm PT
|
Nate - I have been meaning to contact you actually about Shuteye history. Would you be interested in writing the Shuteye climbing history section for the guide? I think you have more info and contacts than anyone else in this regard.
I think a good guide takes a tribe. Sure I could bang out a quick guide to the area but Shuteye has touched my very soul. Like others I feel a strong connection to it. Justin calls it the Holy Land. An accurate description. Shuteye deserves a quality guide with awesome pics, history and stories from those who have communed there. Most everyone has been very helpful in providing info about their routes. Shawn Reeder and Tom have also both pledged amazing pics to the project. It is slowly taking shape with everyones help. Its tough just keeping up with all the new routes. This year will probably have over 50 new routes alone.
Speaking of adventure, Leo and I are getting ready for a 3 day float trip down the San Joaquin this weekend! We are hiking into Ballon Dome to do some climbing and then floating down the river to hopefully fa some new walls on the way to Mammoth Pool. We are bringing 2 ropes, a rack, float tubes and fishing gear. I am taking the camera so hopefully I can post up a good TR when its all done.
Check out our boats: http://www.flyfishusa.com/float-tubes/fishcat-float-tube.htm
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
|
G,
I don't consider myself much of a writer, and I'm also a nobody, so I won't help sales, but I suppose I could take a stab at a history. I still feel like there's so much research to be done, it's kinda daunting. To mooch's comment about doing homework, sure, you can try all you want, but even when you do find out who's delved in these places, sometimes memories are blurry or they'd rather keep quiet (for better or for worse).
Very envious of your upcoming adventure w/Leo into the wilderness. That place is extra sacred, so IMHO, preferably don't share a public TR. Talk to Sean Jones before you head out. Email me.
Cool little story, Roger!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2010 - 02:15pm PT
|
Not really worried about sales. I bet you can do a great job. Just a rough idea of who was climbing out there and when would be more than we have now! Even if only hundred copies get made, (something i am considering is a limited print run) at least the routes and some of the history will get documented for the future.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2010 - 02:17pm PT
|
That fishing trip sounds like fun Grahm. Be sure to share some pics afterward. Have fun!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2010 - 02:38pm PT
|
Nate you are a shoe in.
Micronut nice thoughts and pics...
Grahm trip sounds incredible!
Roger, enjoying your stories! Capacity to be humble definitely important - may help keep us balanced, honest, and at the very least, still breathing.
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
I wrote this to go with a photo story of Shuteye in Climbing Magazine a few years back. It's just one version of a fragmented history. I doubt that anyone has the full picture.
Grahm, I'm stoked that you might publish updated beta! If you want to include any of this, be my guest.
Hinterlands Expeditions
By Doug Robinson
Royal Robbins first turned me on to the Hinterlands. In the early 70s when he had taken to soloing in tennis shoes, Royal veered south from Yosemite. Between the park boundary and the deep gash of the San Joaquin River lay two hundred square miles, or probably more, of rolling forest sequestering the occasional granite dome. Like the South Platte country in Colorado, with dirt roads meandering through. Twenty-five domes cropped up in just the first few years. But Robbins wasn’t the first to get there. Not quite.
A few of the faces stretched up over a thousand feet, especially on Fuller Buttes and Balloon Dome. Fred Beckey – who else? – had started sniffing around the western Sierra’s 400-mile “dome belt” in 1970. How did that guy do it? Here he was, a thousand miles from his home range the Cascades, running down the western Sierra bagging the first ascents of whole regions. In 1970 he opened up the Needles, not a bad coup, then pioneered Charlotte Dome for good measure. That put the heat on for Sierra locals. The next spring – April in fact, long before snow usually melts enough to make the dirt roads passable – Galen Rowell grabbed the first major Hinterlands route, the Eagle Dihedral on East Fuller Butte. Galen was motivated, working hard to escape being forever branded as “a former second of Fred Beckey and Warren Harding.” But on the virgin face of Fuller Butte, Galen hit a blank spot right beneath an overhang that forced his aid climbing to get creative. He began throwing a nut on a rope up past the overhang. Over and over he tossed it up out of sight. When it stuck, he went up the cord and – chuckling at the bewilderment of the next party – called it A3+.
You can sense the grapevine at work, the buzz in Camp 4, in what happened next. Barely two months later Fred arrived in the Hinterlands, and in typical fashion climbed a natural line on the area’s biggest formation, remote and beautiful Balloon Dome across the river. He also copped a route on East Fuller Butte, the first route on Shuteye Ridge, and ran up the longest line on Wamello Dome, before moving on. He never looked back at the slew of quite lovely but more modest domes.
The rest of the Hinterlands was untouched until Royal came along, with his Rockcraft climbing school in tow, beginning in the summer of 1973. Every week a fresh gypsy caravan of cars would line up, with Royal’s classic VW bus leading us up a maze of logging roads. I’d bring up the rear in an even older bus, an itinerant guide in huarache sandals, shuffling a circuit between Bishop, Ventura and the Valley.
Sometimes Royal took us to familiar crags, sometimes to new ones. There seemed to be a lot of rock out there, but few clear vistas in the rolling forest. Royal would set his apprentices to work teaching, say, clean climbing, then slip off to scout the larger faces in those Tretorn tennis shoes. Next day, he would point us toward fine, natural lines on medium-sized granite domes, up to six pitches. Then camping rough on pine needles or in pocket meadows a night or two before moving on. Wine in campfire smoke. We definitely sampled the eastern side of Shuteye Ridge.
After two or three summers, Royal closed down Rockcraft. I returned to Bishop and the Palisades. And it wasn’t until I moved to the coast late in the eighties that I remembered the Hinterlands and went back for a look.
Wamello Dome was an early favorite, so I stopped there first. It sported great position, with a broad face six hundred feet high, looking south into the sun and commanding a sweeping view. It’s reminiscent of Manure Pile Buttress in Yosemite. Five times as wide, though, with inviting climbing everywhere you look. I recognized the South Buttress, which I had guided onsight for Royal. Now two bolts marked a direct start, and a guidebook listed a FA ten years after we had bagged it. Still, there was almost no one around. We lingered.
One day I was coming along the base of Wamello (called Fresno Dome on the map) when a familiar voice called down, “Do you know what we’re on?” It was Royal, leading a group of Boy Scouts. The Scouts saved his life as a teenager, he figures, by turning him on to climbing. So he keeps up a steady effort to return the favor. Or, more like pass it forward.
“I was hoping you could show me,” was all I could reply. First glance, I assumed Royal was on his own route, Mule Train. But then I’ve never been sure where it went, really. The guidebook is long out of print and, well, there is a lot of rock up there.
Sitting up on Wamello’s summit watching the sun sink toward almond orchards and cotton gins, our view to the south is dominated by Shuteye Ridge. Hints of its bold outcrops taunt us. Mike Arechiga comes back form there with his eyes spinning. Topos go up on Mike’s website. No one seems to notice. Years go by. Sean Jones brings a new wave from the Valley to Shuteye. In Tuolumne, Royal and I catch a sizzling glimpse of these photos on Shawn Reeder’s computer. Clearly, Shuteye Ridge is new wave Hinterlands. We make a date to go out there in October. But a big snowstorm intervenes. Now I hunker down on the coast with rain on the roof thinking once again, maybe next season…
Why publicize this secret backwater? Expose a private reserve of fine granite? I’ve watched other hidden domelands slam onto the cover of this magazine. Calaveras Dome comes to mind. Locals whimpered and cried doom. In the end outside climbers nosed around for six months, got poison oak and left. That was about it. Still, many favor hoarding. So, a bit nervously, I told Royal that I was going to write this. His response was swift and sure and open: “The more the merrier!”
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
thanks Doug for that, it's a lovely place, but it requires a bit of work, and a lot of imagination to make it into the minds of most modern climbers... there are those who will go though, I'm hoping to be one of them!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
Good stuff, DR!!!
SoYo is an awesome place that is indescribable. You gotta feel it, and be there to appreciate it.
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
That is a very nice recollection, Doug. Did you take any pictures from those early years?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Awesome Doug! Will definitely add it to the guide book. Thanks for offering it up!
We survived our trip down into the San Joaquin this weekend. Theres one huge wet Ballon out there ;-)
We made it back home last night. We ended up stashing everything down river and hiking/scrambling back up the South Fork trail after the weather got nasty. Lots of portaging and wet boulders made things dangerous and super slow. Had to go into survival mode. We slept in a rad cave Sat night. It rained all night and then all day Sunday. We are super worked. Got some amazing pics at least.
Glad we decided to turn around or we would still be out there in these thunderstorms and out of rescue range. Actually seeing how intense the river and terrain is down there I am completely blown away Royal got the first descent of the river, or that ANYONE can actually kayak that thing even with around 30 portages.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Full on adventure Grahm. Can't wait for the full story and pics.
Glad you all got out ok.
Jeff
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Thanks for the TR Ed and the bonus pics Sue. Bummed I missed you guys that weekend. Had a project to finish. Nice to see folks enjoying Wanderlust.
Now you all got me thinking of warm Minerva Dome on this wet day off. Talk about classic moderates!
The wide chimney, Young Man's Fancy, and the arete, Middle Aged Man's Fancy Dreams, classic!
Great to hear more of the history out there Roger and Doug, thanks!.
That boat was parked there a long time hooblie and it is pulling out of the dock at a snails pace. One of my favorite lines out there, Eschers Way was just picked by John and Sue at the end of the season last year.
Jeff
|
|
sneville
climber
|
|
Jeff,
Has the right facing corner to the left of your arete climb been done? That corner is to the right of the wide thing you and john did. I was looking at it this weekend. I finished my project to the right of matt's route. Give it a go it is a fun route. Congrats on the house.
Sean
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Hey Sean! Nice job, when did you finish the project? Looking forward to giving it a go.
The corner to the left is an Old Mans Dream, another cool line.
We are excited about the house. Bummed we didn't make it over there this weekend due to the weather.
We need another Wawona Dome gathering here soon.
Jeff
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
DR,
Thanks for posting up your article again from the 2005 article. It's a nice broad sweep of the region's history. In the case of Shuteye, there are a handful of additional pioneers worth mentioning. But you are right that nobody has a grasp of all of the pieces in the history.
Incidentally, MIke's topos weren't up for very long, some people did take notice, and they were kindly asked to be pulled before your piece with Sean came out. (Not that they were the only topos to be shared publicly since the Spencer guide.)
G,
Glad you and Leo made it out safe and sound. Wild place's yield wild adventures!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Yeah, as Royal said in the last issue of Climbing... he never got much attention for the descents of some of the rivers he did. The guy was an animal, a true pioneer down to the core, in both kayaking and climbing. Most of us never get there in one sport/endeavor. He did it in two.
Grahm, can't wait to see the pictures. I bet they're awesome! I'll hold on to most of mine and save them for the guidebook etc. Here is one from a recent aerial recon of the region. Has the big rock on the left been climbed yet? A route through the heart looks like it could go...
Thanks to my buddy Doug Englekirk and his bush pilot skills.
|
|
sneville
climber
|
|
Jeff,
I finished the first pitch on sat before the rain came. I still have to take it into the knobs for a second pitch. Yeah we were talking about getting out to wawona before the snow comes. Did you fa that corner?
Sean
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
That corner on Minerva is a Delk route.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Still waiting for pics Grahm... how beat up are you?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Pretty beat up. That place is truly wild and remote. Our packs were over 100 pounds with all the climbing gear and river gear. We looked pretty comical going down the trail with giant packs and oars. I'll work on pics tonight.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
Let's see some John and Susu routes! Mucci and Mooch kept talking about the ground up style that some of you guys are doing down there.
Proud!!!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
DR, A year ago a friend made-off w/my much prized Climbing magazine Shuteye issue, so it's very nice to see the writeup again here! Always enjoy your writing! Sweet comment at the end by Royal Robbins. We've met a precious few climbers at Shuteye in the two years we've been heading there. Would be nice to see some more.
Jeff, we'd love to get to Wawona again. Missed you & Mony of late. Looks like Mucci might be able to make it out to So Yo soon again.
Munge, thank you! Be very nice to see you out there sometime! Best to show you by climbing them with you in person! But here are a few photos otherwise.
Sean & Jess just did a great job on a new climb, ground-up, this past weekend out there.
Here's a photo of Jeff stanced out and hand drilling late this last spring on Middle Aged Man's Fancy Dreams. Edit: another ground up FA.
Grahm, so... you guys were out there somewhere underneath this fogbelt when we took this picture. Hope you're fully rested up now... Looking forward to your photos/tr!
|
|
sneville
climber
|
|
another great weekend at shuteye. We beat the weather and got some FA/s done. Even in the rain this place is very special.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
Thanks for the pix all!
That one of John with gilligans hat on, hammer in hand is Priceless!
Middle age looks very nice indeed.
Mucci
Praying it all works out for a coming weekend.....
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Glad to see somebody got out this weekend!
Great shots! Can't wait to get on those.
Hey John and Sue, Where is Gilligan/John drilling?? (route name hint)
Sean, nice job...what's that first pitch going at?
Nate, I will be returning your email soon.
Mucci, what weekend works for you? And the rest of you as well. John, Sue, Sean, anybody else????? We need to get Nate up to Slowona Dome.
Jeff
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Jeff, The photo of John is on a new climb "Cowboy Cracks" to the right of Wither. Nice photo Jess. In the photo, the right-facing crack corner
in the background is the first pitch of Wither.
|
|
Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
|
|
Hey Grahm,
Sounds like you had an interesting adventure and have more to come, since your gear is still down there. I can add a few tidbits, though I have not been in that section myself.
Kayaking the San Joaquin Middle Fork: For many years after Royal's descent there were only a few kayakers willing to tackle that section. Three of my regular paddling partners made what we think was the 3rd or 4th descent in the early 1990's. Mike Latendresse who still lives in Oakhurst, was on the trip and shot lots of photos. These days kayak design and skills have progressed to the point that several groups a year make the descent down this canyon. There is some information plus links to trip reports at the American Whitewater page for this river reach.
http://www.americanwhitewater.org/content/River/detail/id/290/
I have some other stories that you might find more interesting.
Dr. Bob, Bob Graham, here in Fresno used to lead annual snorkeling trips through part of the canyon. Maybe from Miller Crossing to Cassidy Crossing or perhaps further. I am pretty sure it was from trail to trail and they did not go all the way to Mammoth Pool that I know of. He always had interesting (scary) tales to tell and beautiful photos.
Around 2000, I started attending lots of meetings for the relicensing of the San Joaquin power projects owned by Southern California Edison. Among the various agencies, public interest groups and concerned citizens, was one old loud mouthed, coot, who could go on and on. The rest of us would twiddle our thumbs until he got winded. But over time I developed a tremendous respect for him. One story that opened my eyes was when he described taking several weeks to hike and swim from Florence Lake to the mouth of Big Creek. This was before Mammoth Pool was built. He did not say a whole lot about the trip other than that he got really tired of eating fish and nothing else. It made me realize that he was a tough guy from whom I could learn a lot.
I know that you have climbed a lot in the river bed at Squaw Leap, but have you swam/hiked all the way from the bridge to the lower powerhouse, or from Kerchoff down, or from Reddinger to Kerchoff? Of course your gear is up above, so you are pretty committed!
Paul
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Very cool share, Paul.
Very nice looking climbs, Sean, John, and Susan!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Thanks Sue, looks like fun.
Hope we can all hook up soon
Jeff
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
awesome photos Susu.
Gilligan hats are all the rage in France, but here, I'm not sure what is kosher. I defer to your judgment John since you're on the sharp end of that there rope. ;)
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Paul, Enjoyed your post. esp. the part about the one old loud mouthed coot and realizing you could learn much from him. Great photos on that link too!
Hah, Munge, the fisher hat photo is Jessie's... wow, but that hat is getting some props! All I know is it hasn't tried to fly away in a wind when he's climbing like the baseball caps do. And it goes great with the King of Beers.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
Oh look, its Jeff and John....sans the Gilligan hat.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
HA! Yup, thats John and Jeff alright!
Thanks so much for that post Paul. The trip report for running the river at the link you supplied is amazing. Check it out if you didn't see it.
http://darinm.blogspot.com/2007/06/devils-postpile-middle-fork-san-joaquin.html
The quotes at the end are classic. “It’s like Dinkey Creek on crack and in a gorge” – Taylor Robertson. “The hardest thing I have ever done in a kayak” – Jules Campbell. “This is the most demanding run I’ve ever seen” “If you’ve done all the other high Sierra runs, and want more, this is for you. – Holbek & Stanley. “This run is one of the most beautiful and scary there is. It’s full-on adventure.” – Hayden Glatte.
We thought we were just gonna float and climb some walls on our way down. Dooh!
I have fa'd some routes below Reddinger Dam and put up some bouldering below Kerchoff but not floated it yet. I think I need to get a kayak. Inflatable tubes aren't cutting it!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Serious business.
I noted they lifted (without permission, perhaps?) one of Dingus' photos in that TR.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
a kayak?! ... the rack is growing-
Standard Rack for So Yo:
snowmobile
Kayak
float tube
chain saw
snorkle
am I forgetting anything?
ps- Nate, get back to work.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Ok, here we go...All climbers are invited to the SSCA Southern Sierra Climbers Association gathering at Shuteye Ridge.
The event will be the weekend of October 16th . I will be there Friday night if you want to come in early. Hikes to climbing at 3 different areas can be reached from the group camping area. Bring your own beverage of choice. Topos will be provided to the nearby climbing areas. Slide show Saturday night.
Driving Directions: This is the easier and smoother way to go. It is also 2 wheel drive car accessible. Driving time is about 45 minutes from the town of North Fork. North Fork is your last chance for gas and groceries.
From North Fork take Mammoth Pool Road aka South Fork aka Road 225 aka Minarets Rd. East out of town and past the old mill heading toward Mammoth Pools. Before Mile High Overlook pull out you will pass Rock Creek Campground on the right. About .75 of a mile past the campground and before the road actually crosses Rock Creek a major intersection on your left will be dirt Road 7S02.
Turn left onto 7S02 and follow it about 4 miles until you can see Big Sleep Dome on the right. A small dirt road on the right leads to the right (south) side of Big Sleep Dome drainage. Keep your eyes peeled because the turn is in the middle of a right hand curve and it is easy to miss if you are driving fast. This final short road is a bit rocky so drive carefully to avoid flats. A large open area to your right is the main camping area. There are a few obvious fire pits to choose from. If you continue past this area in about 200 yards the road ends at a small parking area.
Near by crags:
Crocodile Rock: A beautiful dome with excellent highly featured golden granite and just over 30 routes. Incredible views from the crag and stellar climbing make it well worth the hike. Gear and sport routes mix well together at this wall. Steep featured water grooves on the main face are what make Crocodile best known for its amazing routes in the 5.11 range. The base of the main wall is very comfortable and dog friendly with big granite floors and boulders leaning against the wall for shade. Can get breezy and cold in the afternoon as the air speeds up going over Shuteye Pass.
The bouldering around Crocodile is unbelievable in quality. Comparable to the Druid Stones of Bishop.
Big Sleep Dome: South West facing giant 1,000 foot dome. This one is easily seen all the way from Fresno. Moderate multi pitch climbing is the name of the game here. Nothing harder than 5.9 so far but some fun 5 to 6 pitch excursions can be enjoyed here. The routes generally start out with smooth friction climbing and end up on giant oceans of knobs.
Fish Dome Description: A golden dome situated on the ridge with a great vibe. Shorter routes here that climb a plated dome you might think was from a dream.
So come on out and enjoy the Shuteye Ridge experience. See ya there!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Grahm I have a more recent, updated topo for Fish Rock.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Hooray for Hats!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Good for rock fall to eh? You never see it coming!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Oh ya! Those are great. How many more holes do you get out of a bosch thats wrapped in duct tape? It probably helps refract the electrons for more efficient use...
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
You'd have to ask Ger. I know that thing is no longer in service though...
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Oct 11, 2010 - 09:59am PT
|
OT stretcher.....
Jeff and John spot the next dirty trad line on......yes, you guessed it, Grey Eagle.
Nater -
Nice shot of you on 'Spread Eagle'.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Oct 12, 2010 - 11:40am PT
|
Naw Grahm, but combined with my walki-talkie and aluminum hat I swear I was speaking with aliens.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2010 - 12:10am PT
|
Gray Eagle... Can anyone identify this route? I have an action pic from Royal for Grahm's history section and I'm trying to nail it down. Looks like it got done in Sept. 1975 (or at least that is the date on the slide... ). Thanks!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2010 - 12:47am PT
|
And, speaking of Hats, how about this dashing pair? Seen here @ Lembert parking.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2010 - 01:27am PT
|
Hey, it's Dr. Smooth! Seen that hat before! Very nice!
Tom, That's a familiar sight, but don't believe we have any reported info on that line as of yet.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2010 - 12:30pm PT
|
ok so Nate thinks Intrepid Voyage (.10a) or Road to Zion (.10a), anyone know which one?
Or are we way off?
Thanks Sue, I figured either you or John would know, or Tork, or Matt, or Mooch, etc.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2010 - 12:50pm PT
|
sent you an email Tom...
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2010 - 01:00pm PT
|
It could very well be a unique line. That's a pretty-good sized chunk of rock there.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
|
OK so to clarify, the red line was my guess (don't actually know where the route started) so the only thing I know for certain is the climber in the photo I have is approx. where the red arrow ends. I figure they got their via the path of least resistance. They are approx. 25' climber's left of the huge yellow dihedral, not in the corner.
(no I don't wanna post the pic... it'll spoil it for publication if Grahm uses it). Thanks for the help... getting closer.
Calling Matt...
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2010 - 01:17pm PT
|
IV or very near.
HMMMM......
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2010 - 01:23pm PT
|
Closer to Road to Zion (which is right of IV, right Matt?), but it may be an easier variation, John thinks. Pete Cassam also climbed an obvious line in this vicinity.
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2010 - 02:10pm PT
|
Suddenly aware here that you guys seem to be getting close to putting out a new guidebook. Congratulations! What a relief -- Spencer is even more out of date than the free climbing guide to the Valley.
This prompts me to mention a few things on Fresno Dome.
First of all, let's call it Wamello. John Muir noted that was its name, and we always used Wamello at the Rockcraft School with Royal.
Then, we had climbed the South Buttress ("South Pillar" in Spencer, who lists a supposed FA in '85) back in the Rockcraft days in the early 70s. I guided it then, onsight. Not claiming the FA myself, but it was definitely a Rockcraft route. We avoided the bolted crux by starting in from the right, maybe 50 feet up the gully. I like the newer direct start, though. Much finer line.
"Fresno Flats" was originally 5.8X. I was the instigator of retrobolting it back in the mid-90s. That could be controversial, so here's the deal: The FA is listed as "Unknown." I asked around for a couple of years but could not find out who did it so I could talk to them. It seemed sad to me to waste a beautiful, beginner-friendly slab on a death route. So when I couldn't find the first ascentionists to talk to, I managed to get up the cojones to lead it, then laid out the retrobolting. Mike Arechiga actually installed the bolts. We are pleased with its current condition and I have guided at least 20 ascents. Everyone likes the climb.
FWIW, we now call that climb Wamello Rising, as Fresno Flats seems so uninspiring.
No doubt you have fresh topos for newer routes on Wamello. I'll just mention two:
A new bolted route maybe a year old has cropped up on that same slab, between Wamello Rising and Watership Down. I climbed it on Sunday, and it's good. 5.8 off the deck, well-protected, good position. There are now a number of bolted variations over the headwall above, from 5.8R to 5.10a.
You probably have topo for the right extension off Mule Train, 2 pitches, 5.9, FA Lawrence Garcia.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2010 - 02:14pm PT
|
DR,
I don't believe Grahm is including Fres... uh, I mean Wamello Dome in the Shuteye guide.
Cool info though, and someone should do a small guide for it anyway. A lot has changed!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2010 - 02:24pm PT
|
Thanks for those tidbits Doug!
Grahm isn't including Wamello in the Shuteye guide, but there are a couple of us who have been gathering info for these other areas in SoYo for years. (Truly daunting task, but nobody is in any rush to publish. Just passionate about the area and it's history.) Our friend Jerry Anderson is possibly the most familiar with Wamello, being quite active there for years, and the new routes you speak of are likely his (don't have my topos in front of me).
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2010 - 04:42pm PT
|
By memory.....not by Matt's topo (the hand drawn topo was a thing of beuaty but "someone", other than myself, lost it :P ).
Intrepid Voyage' (in magenta)
DR-
Left of Mule Train (about 60 or 70') is a route called 'Buggery On The High Seas' (.10b), that Roger Hayashi and myself installed in July 2000. Seven (7) bolts on P1 and five (5) bolts on P2. Joins from the right, at 'Whiskey Bill's P3 anchors.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2010 - 05:04pm PT
|
Thanks Mooch, right about where your line meets the red line is where the climber is, and the rope does sorta bank off and right (looking down at climber) so it could have been Intrepid Voyage, or some kind of variation. Looks like a lot of ways to start it (?).
|
|
Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2010 - 05:09pm PT
|
Wow Mooch, What have you NOT Done?
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2010 - 05:50pm PT
|
DR,
The route left of Fresno Flats/Wamello Rising, is Guides in a Snowbank (5.10a) by Jerry, Sigrid, and Lynnea. 5/08.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2010 - 07:16pm PT
|
Hey Dave,
i think i still have that hand drawn topo if you'd like to see it. I'm almost positive i have it on my hard drive. Anyways, the route in Magenta is Intrepid Voyage, and to the right in red is basically a route i put up a few years ago called road to zion. Like intrepid, it's sparsly bolted taking advantage of knobs and cracks with a few runout sections sporting bolts.
Matt
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2010 - 07:43pm PT
|
My guess on the route would be Around The Corner 5.9, a Delk route.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Oct 17, 2010 - 10:19pm PT
|
Thanks guys.
Hey Grahm, or anyone else on the ridge last weekend... rain? snow? neither?
It rained and we got thunder and lightning on the coast.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2010 - 11:30am PT
|
My guess on the route would be Around The Corner 5.9, a Delk route
What are you sayong Jeff? That Matt's 'Road To Zion' is actually a Jack Delk route?
John was telling me that IV might have previously been done. If you look at the photo, there is a crack system moving up the middle up the formation. Perhaps this is the original line reported. Any more details on the info Susu? Jeff? Tiki?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2010 - 11:59am PT
|
Mooch, if you look at the Spencer topo (p126) and the photo it seems to match up to me??? Otherwise, where is around the corner?
I know there are at least 2 or 3 lines in this photo with bolts, can anyone draw them in and name them?
Jeff
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
|
We had a fun weekend, about 12 people showed for the gathering. When I got there Friday the campfire was going and steaks were ready. Yum! Steve played some awesome guitar and sang some tunes. Phil had already done a bunch more trail work to Big Sleep earlier that day for everyone. Its super cruiser now, thanks Phil!
Most everyone was keen to climb on Big Sleep for Saturday. A light mist and rainbow in the morning gave way quickly to sunny warm weather with high clouds. Afternoon Nap, Gumby's and Moonlight Madness all got ascents. Afternoon Nap got what I think was its first solo ascent by Al. Crocodile saw some climbing as well.
That night campfires, good company and some grilled chicken were on the menu. Followed by didgeridoo duets and HAPI drum.
It rained briefly Saturday night. Sunday was cloudy/sunny and most people packed up to go home with forecasted rain on its way. Thanks all who came out. Hope to see you at the next one!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
|
Glad ya all had fun out there. Was planning on Sunday but the rain forcast kept us away.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
|
What are you sayong Jeff? That Matt's 'Road To Zion' is actually a Jack Delk route?
No, what he's actually saying, is that Matt's 'Road to Zion' is actually Jack Delk's 'Around the Corner', which is actually Royal Robbins unnamed and unrecorded route. And maybe Pete Cassam's unreported route in there as well, done after Jack, and probably after someone else...
:) Serious.
John G. feels 'Around the Corner' is actually on the prow of the buttress to the right, but the name sure seems to suggest it's, well, in the dihedral around the corner...
Ah, the mysteries of SoYo never cease. Stay tuned. Climb on!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2010 - 01:59pm PT
|
Ditto on that note, Grahm. We didn't realize that was you heading out while we were on the way in Sunday morning until we ran into Steve. Sorry we missed you! Though it rained, there were a few among us willing to scope out the area and climb anyway.
Hey Mooch, Intrepid Voyage first pitch was climbed this weekend by two climbers who happened to be out there already when we arrived. Sounds like they didn't know which route they had climbed, but by their description we all thought it must have been IV. They gave it a rave review!
Regarding the known routes in that area, to the best of our knowledge, the climb Around the Corner is in the middle of the main buttress left of the great depression.
Left of this line is a left-facing corner and wide crack, which seems to me the line of least resistance/most naturally protectable. Continuing up towards the top of this crack isn't that appealing and no longer seems the line of least resistance because it appears loose/rock-filled... Makes sense someone might begin in the corner crack and move to the face as they ascend... which seems the line in the Robbins' slide.
Left of this line is where begins IV & Road to Zion which reportedly share a start. Road to Zion takes a line farther right of IV and appears to intersect with that corner crack in places, and seems higher up to take the line in question according to Matt... He does seem to be the person who would know the most about the line in question. I originally thought RZ might intersect the Robbins line rather than be it. Both IV & RZ are 10s.
Here's a photo John took.
John just sent me this photo below with where he suggest the known routes are... I remember a topo that showed IV & RZ sharing a start, though the RZ line isn't drawn to the ground below.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2010 - 02:59pm PT
|
[old version of] Matt's topo
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2010 - 07:37pm PT
|
Another topo of Matt's
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2010 - 08:24pm PT
|
Thanks Sue, I thought I saw bolts out right. There are also bolts out left.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2010 - 10:37pm PT
|
Slight clarifications/beta in the photo below. The line farthest left in dark pink is Dances With Bush. Don't remember what it's rated....10c or something thereabouts. Steep with bolts and gear. The first anchor is a huge knob that you can equalize with a bolt. It goes up a runout 5.8 ramp to the left of the belay and eventually joins the huge ledge on the south face for the 2nd and third pitch.
The light blue line is road to zion. Both Intrepid Voyage and Road to zion are adventure climbs for sure. Each has sections with 60-90' between bolts with pro mixed in and is not necessarily super straightforeword about where to get pro, just gotta get up there. The topo was put on ST so people would know where to go and what has been done in the area. Both routes weave through the face in fun ways. The idea in putting them up was to avoid crack systems that had likely been climbed and weave a line into the face with mixed pro.
As far as whether or not either of those climbs had been done before, i have no idea. I saw no sign of any ascents, no slings, no bolts, no fixed pins. The bolts were to limit the runouts to no longer than 50'
For the location of Around the corner, I've always thought it was on the detached tower that Storming the castle ascends. When we topped out on that, we found a remnant of an old fixed sling around the knob we slung to rapp off the summit.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2010 - 12:43am PT
|
So after all is said and done... it looks like Royal was on IV or RZ, or a mix of both.
Pretty damn cool he was doing routes like that back in '75.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2010 - 02:04am PT
|
IF Royal followed the obvious wide chimney/cleft (the red line) for the first pitch(es), it would have avoided the crux pitch of both IV and RZ. That seems most likely.
Thanks for your input and clarification, Matt. Was Dances with Bush another rope solo? Date?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2010 - 10:01am PT
|
Thanks Matt.
Whats the linkup of IV to DB called?
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2010 - 02:18pm PT
|
Susu -
Is that John's topo (yellow lines with route names)??
If so, small correction for IV:
Just before the first significant roof, the line goes LEFT....not right. After that, it joins back up. When Matt and I did it, we went left of the roof (although, by the looks of it, the climbing to the right of the roof is similar in grade....5.6/5.7). I'll do a "paint" correction for clarity. Also, reference Matt's topo.
BTW, Matt......that's your topo for IV, not the original. Also, you might want to draw in the "arch" at the beginning to identify the start more clearly.
I'll go with Nate's comment on which way Royal may have gone. He was more drawn to natural lines.
Hope this helps you out Jeff on the start during our FA:
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2010 - 02:43pm PT
|
BTW, wasn't there a piton under that first big roof, off to the right (part of the buttress) on Storming The Castle? Didn't we spot one while FAing IV?
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2010 - 03:31pm PT
|
Mooch, John just drew those lines on that photo quickly as a working suggestion... hoping it might help get the details ironed out. Would be nice if a group of us check-out those routes in person. Probably have to wait since it's beginning to look a lot like winter over there. I wonder what if any photos were taken by the climbers there this weekend.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2010 - 04:17pm PT
|
I don't want to hear any talk of bad weather.
It will clear by Friday night.
that is all.
ps- good stuff
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2010 - 05:11pm PT
|
@ Munge -
Poor fixed lines :(
that is all.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2010 - 10:26pm PT
|
No Mooch, now I am more confused. What route, in my picture, was I on then?
Those bolts would have been hard to clip going the way you drew in?????
Hey anyone got pics from last week? Post up!
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2010 - 11:36am PT
|
Jeff -
Don't be confused.....it simple.
Here's Matt's topo:
As you can see, 'Road To Zion' cuts right after the first two bolts. And IV cuts left after the first two bolts, eventually passing the roof on the left. What's confusing? The only confusing thing might be that Matt didn't draw in the crack going up after the blocks at the start and forming into the initial arch (as seen at the bottom of your photo). The "stray" crack he drew at the beginning is NOT part of the route. On that note, we tried going that way but its a flairing seam.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2010 - 12:19pm PT
|
I take it you were on IV, Tork, as I can see your rope heading that way. But it looks like you went directly up at the start rather than following the right leaning arch, perhaps. You definitely then went around the left side of the 'lil roof.
(peanut gallery comment)
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2010 - 01:43pm PT
|
Add: Hi Bluey, I just added more info on the photo credits.
Nate, juicy like orange slice candy.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2010 - 01:56pm PT
|
Orange Slice looks so...
juicy!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2010 - 01:59pm PT
|
Orange Slice DOES look purdy...what formation is it on?
|
|
sneville
climber
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2010 - 02:24pm PT
|
Susu,
That picture of orange slice from that angle looks awesome. That wall is so featured. Here is a picture of the orange slices that gives every one magic powers for FA's. I will put more pics up tonight Jeff.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2010 - 03:20pm PT
|
All,
i have a topo for dances with bush, it's not the greatest thing in the world, but it will get you up the route. I'll put it on when i get unlazy and am not at work. Dave, i don't remember seeing a fixed pin where you mention. Perhaps we can chat about it off line and jog the memory. (I'll be in Tehachapi all week if you wanna hit up wagon wheel at some point.)
As far as what royal did, there is probably a good chance that our routes overlap a bit here and there, but the idea behind putting bolts where they are was that if anyone had done the path we took, they would have had to do runouts over 50' and i felt it was a safe bet it hadn't been done.
have fun out there kids!!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2010 - 03:24pm PT
|
Sean, you need a pic of those orange slices spilling out of a chalk bag. :)
|
|
LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
|
we had a great time at Gray Eagle this past weekend. IV is stellar. happy to see this topo of IV and RZ as we were adventure climbing. Storming the Castle must be the route up the corner over the large layback flake with the high bolt into the notch?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2010 - 07:45pm PT
|
My confusion is, what route are the bolts I have marked on, clearly if you were to follow the red line you would be unable to clip them.
Thanks for the pics! Was a great weekend. More more more.
|
|
LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2010 - 08:18pm PT
|
there's just enough distortion in the photo to be slightly disorienting. the bolts are directly underneath the roof crack when you are on route. we stepped in under them from the left, cuz the rosy granite was so pretty we wanted to start on it.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 01:41am PT
|
Another Perspective on the Same Area in Question
Jess on Of Wisdom & War and Sean on Middle Aged Man's Fancy Dreams
Mucci climbing in the rain
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 01:49am PT
|
I hear tell John was seen drowning en route from the rain? vid no less?
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 02:09am PT
|
Rochambo... wait, winner gets to what?
[whoops, Munge, technical difficulties loading video... a minute please]
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 10:11am PT
|
Great pics Sue!
What is Josh on? What's the story?
You just had to bring up Rochambo, sore subject.
Now back to Around The Corner
If one compares Sue's last photo of Gray with the Spencer topo of Around The Corner and they don't see the route then....???
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 12:05pm PT
|
Ditto on the pics Sue! My fav is Orange Slice. Too bad the climbers weren't wearing orange or something bright to stand out a little more.
Looks like another great opportunity for rain shots this weekend! ;-)
|
|
Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
|
Here are two pics of Infinite Voyage and what is to the right of Infinite Voyage.
Sorry for the poor picture quality, it was overcast and these are from an iphone.
It does go left at the roof, I saw the bolt from the ground. We didn't make it up that far because we had no idea what we were on or how to get off if we kept going. But man, did I want to keep going! We'll definitely be back to do the whole route.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
|
Too bad the climbers weren't wearing orange or something bright to stand out a little more.
10 min. and problem solved.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 01:30pm PT
|
Susu- That pic of Orange slice (with the Nate Dizzle touch) is stunning.
Anybody get a pic of Jeff showing us how to use mechanical advantage :)
Good times!
Where is the WATERFALL VIDEO????
Mucci
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 02:02pm PT
|
Nice Nate! Now its guide book worthy...
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 02:46pm PT
|
SPH forecast
Saturday: Showers likely. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 51. East northeast wind 5 to 8 mph becoming west southwest. Chance of precipitation is 60%.
Saturday Night: A 50 percent chance of showers. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 42.
Sunday: Showers likely. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 48. Chance of precipitation is 60%.
Chiquito Ridge forecast...
Saturday: A 20 percent chance of showers. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 62. Calm wind.
Saturday Night: A 20 percent chance of rain. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 45.
Sunday: A 50 percent chance of rain. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 58.
but I only have Sunday to climb. BAH!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 03:04pm PT
|
Sorry about the technical difficulties... took so long to load the video last night that I fell asleep. Will try again shortly, but have to edit out some.... language... make it closer to g-rated.
Nice comments on the photos & new orange shirts!
Hi LuckyPink & Daphne... that is nice looking rock!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 04:54pm PT
|
Now THAT is some serious Shuteye climbing addiction.
I've certainly scouted in the rain and sleet, but putting shoe and drill to rock (shaking head)...
Fun vid & musical score!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 05:01pm PT
|
SICK!!!
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 05:47pm PT
|
No bolts. Big fun.
Thanks for the video Susu!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 06:00pm PT
|
Oh yeah, Slabbin' in the rain, that's the spirit!
|
|
LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 06:18pm PT
|
susu.. delightful vid , it's great to hear the guys laugh! good to meet you out there.
what about some descent beta? got some great info from Sean for the rap in the depression. Is that the only descent? I saw some possibility for a loose rope snagging descent off the right of IV leaving slings only I hope. Any info? I suppose you could walk off forever or hang yourself on a gully descent to climbers left water flow dependent. What about minerva? owl looks like reasonable tree to tree rap.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 07:20pm PT
|
Thanks LuckyPink! I'll pm you.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 11:02pm PT
|
Ha Ha!! Little damp and minor water huh?
You guys are f'n nuts!.......Hats off to to ya!!
Wise move for the second to go low to avoid that 'trickle'.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2010 - 09:39pm PT
|
Heya Brother Tiki!!
Rain or shine, let's hit it soon.
This was a fine wet day in the woods.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2010 - 12:15am PT
|
Hey Hey Nater.....I remember that day dude....love ya man!!
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
|
JR.....how r u man....heard you broke an ankle?
How is that home brew project you and your brother had?
Take care Bro....When is the Face-Off?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2010 - 01:07pm PT
|
Looks like its going to be an El Nina winter year. Colder and drier then El Ninos warm and wet effect of last winter.
http://www.cpc.noaa.gov/products/analysis_monitoring/enso_advisory/ensodisc.html
"Expected U.S. impacts include an enhanced chance of above-average precipitation in the Pacific Northwest, and below-average precipitation across the southern tier of the country."
The colder ocean temps seem to be bringing on winter early this year. Check out Saturdays prediction. "A chance of rain and snow showers. Snow level 6700 feet. Partly sunny, with a high near 51."
Snow?? woohoo, time to start prepping the snowmobiles!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2010 - 03:29pm PT
|
holy crap that vid was awesome!!!
what's with the musical score? should be more thrasher metal, me thinks. :)
I feel so weak after watching that. the ground is barely damp here right now.
any mtn reports from yesterday?
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 25, 2010 - 03:08am PT
|
Nice photo Grahm! Thanks for the weather update, though, we're not ready for that long winter's forecast... in denial.
Munge, ok... Thanks. I'll insert a better tune. You're not alone... we did absolutely no climbing this weekend. Maybe next? You thinking on getting out there too?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Oct 26, 2010 - 11:14pm PT
|
You would probably rather see an fa pic over snowmobiles so here is one of a new 11c at Dreamscape. "Triple Tens" put up on 10-10-10
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Oct 26, 2010 - 11:22pm PT
|
Ah Dreamscape... only made it to Dreamy for one day this summer, but it sure was fun! Dreaming in Color is now one of my favorite routes at Shuteye Grahm.
Did you do it yet?
Nice work with the camera Justin Ross!
Which side is Triple Tens... hard for me to place it with all the boulders at the base?
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2010 - 12:20am PT
|
That IS a nice photo, Justin.
Sporting the bright colors, boys. ;)
G-
What does the trad line(or start) to the left go at?
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2010 - 12:36am PT
|
The rock there looks amazing!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2010 - 01:54am PT
|
forecast is grim and i've got class Saturday. not looking promising, tho I haven't check the sosierra... stand by one...
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2010 - 02:04am PT
|
grim for a day trip non local
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2010 - 12:36pm PT
|
Tom - Didn't get a chance to send it yet but looks like another classic for sure. Leo and I finished the line that goes right through the middle of the plates in your pic at 5.9 called "Counting Sheep". Triple Tens is on the right side of the main wall. Right of Contrails.
Nate - The trad line is 5.9 a beautiful arching crack. I believe its the one mentioned in Vernons write up. There is another 5.9 just to its left so can't be totally sure which one is which but the one in the pic is way more obvious. Once the topo is done we'll send it to Greg and get it sorted out.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2010 - 02:19pm PT
|
Counting Sheep... goes well with Sweet Dreams and the rest.
It leaves from the mid-anchors right? Went easier than we thought. That wall is awesome.
See you soon - stoked! Playing Hooky!
72 at Bass Lake Thursday.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2010 - 01:00am PT
|
Who is in for Sunday-Monday?
Perfect weather....
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2010 - 01:05am PT
|
Mucci, I been checking that Sunday weather. Looks prime. But I gotta wrap a project or two at undisclosed location. Should partners bail, I may head south. Send me your coordinates or full story if you end up swinging by tomorrow.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2010 - 01:08am PT
|
Roger that.
WHOOOP!!!
I am gonna find some trouble up in them hillz.....
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2010 - 02:55pm PT
|
Any Takers?
C'mon, after a nice dusting, the ridge is gonna be NICE!!!
Mucci
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2010 - 02:56pm PT
|
REALLY wish I could.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2010 - 04:30pm PT
|
T'was nice to play hookey and do some fine new ones...
The Bat Mobile... hold on tight!
Brought to you by The RBBC
JR 2 that was mighty solid of you to walk the "100 yards" with a cast on...
|
|
Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2010 - 05:28pm PT
|
choss pitt man.
3/4 glu in,
with some bat guacamole thrown in for hardner,
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2010 - 06:02pm PT
|
Uh oK...
I remember my first beer
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2010 - 09:05pm PT
|
Great, but cold looking rock.
Probably beats the scorching variety though!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2010 - 08:17pm PT
|
Speaking of cold rock, the ridge is dusted in snow from last night. brrrrr
|
|
this just in
Ice climber
north fork
|
|
Tom you musta put up another 5.11rx to be pumped still. Only another month up here so try to pull a couple more weekends. Bring more glue for this choss pile and of course more strippers. Try to find some non local strippers this time though. Sure the last one's were cute and all until they smiled and showed off our local dental hygiene. I guess a couple of teeth are better than none, though.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
On the way to Crocodile this last Sunday...
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
choss pitt man.
3/4 glu in,
with some bat guacamole thrown in for hardner,
Someone got tee-rolled.
I remember my first educator.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
This Just In - welcome to ST, now we got both JRs on the loose.
Good luck on your send. Beware the grumpy old trolls...
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Thanks for posting pics Grahm. Always love to see the pics.
We were up there yesterday climbing on the Runnel Vision Wall. Most of the snow was melted. Kinda hot up there in fact??
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Bullroarer!! that start is insane - so thin! Darn lucky those two black knobs were there! Nice send man. That pic doesn't do it justice...
But not bad for a one legged man.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Good to hear it was hot and clear of snow!!!
What were you climbing, Jeff? Any photos, ratings, names?
Nice photos everone!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
I think we should start a JRs Camera fund and get you and your bro a camera.
I gotta say, Justin has taken two of the best shots of me in the last year. He has a good eye.
Glad you're gonna be back on a rope! I wanna watch ha ha. Drag that stump up Nap... that'd be a good start.
I'll pitch in $20 bucks... anyone else? You can get a decent Canon point and shoot for $100 these days.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/672192-REG/Canon_4258B001.html
10mPs is pretty great for less than $100!
Who's with me? I know you got hammered by doctor bills probably.
Susu you're due for some picture posts...
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Nice looking dike at the start of Bullroarer there.
Ooo, a slightly run trad line to the left awaits, perhaps?
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
yes... for a 5.12 climber, it's even thinner than the .11b
Nate, I got more RR pics, will send after I get 'em back from lab.
You can sleuth around and figure 'em out.
|
|
this just in
Ice climber
north fork
|
|
Tom thanks for the camera fund. I have a Nikon 10 MP coolpix already though. It's no Canon but it does the job. I'm down for free money if you still want to fund me. Haha
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
cool, on both counts.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
OK then we'll spend the $20 on beer at PIzza Factory... the right one.
ps- have you seen Just-Ins girlfriend? She's really fit, good at push ups, and tan.
|
|
this just in
Ice climber
north fork
|
|
My girl is pretty awesome. I just wish she knew that she is my girlfriend
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
"My girl is pretty awesome. I just wish she knew that she is my girlfriend"
you're dating Jessica Alba? Wait a second, I'm having the same problem with her!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Jeremy, what did you get on out there??? Did you find my trail?
Jeff
|
|
Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
|
|
Good stuff out there Jefe, but it's a looooong drive for just 1 day
Doug
|
|
anyuta34
Boulder climber
new york
|
|
We are to prefer Christian brethren love them with special affection.Love is the ultimate and most difficult to achieve. This is translated from Agape, which is love in a spiritual and social sense, a God <a href="http://www.torontoescort.com">toronto escorts</a> like love. Christians with this type of love can agree to disagree with no hard feelings, respecting each other'sposition. Paul said that we should consider others better than our self (PHIL 2:3). He didn't say that others are better, but that we should consider them better.This has nothing to do with self-esteem.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
?????
Hey Doug!
Yep, long drive, long hike. Best to just say no.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Here we go again with the snow...
Saturday: A 20 percent chance of rain. Mostly sunny, with a high near 64. South southeast wind between 3 and 8 mph.
Saturday Night: Partly cloudy, with a low around 37.
Sunday: A chance of rain and snow. Snow level 7600 feet. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 47. Chance of precipitation is 40%. Little or no snow accumulation expected.
Sunday Night: A chance of rain and snow. Snow level 7300 feet. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 32.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
... and when has that stopped you? I know you're secretly awaiting the white stuff with anticipation. You're a sick man.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
We are rolling with the heavy duty crew, 6 deep.
No way that forcast is gonna ruin a good time.
I am going to buy some of that wader boot felt, you know the white stuff on the sole?
A true breakthrough in storm climbing me thinks...
Mucci
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Here's some more photos as prompted! Only copies though, originals
taken by Jess.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
That's the spirit, Mucci!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
sweet Susu!
Fire and Ice
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Mucci... Two deep! Do we hear a third or fourth? Maybe shuteye will shine brightly once more before rains get going sunday!
After this wkend, the fires in slater's photo should be gone... Favoring those who favor ice...
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Say it ain't so Su, say it ain't so...
Anyone want to call the big one that will slam the door shut for good?
I say by Dec. 11 it'll be game over.
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
Mammoth's Howard The Dweeb is calling for 8 inches at 7000 feet - Cold Springs is what - 73 and some change?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Snow update...
Significant amounts of snow now sit at the middle and upper elevations. Remote sensors are reporting new snow amounts along the Sierra Crest of 10 to 17 inches above 8,000' and 1 to 8 inches below 8,000'.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2010 - 02:56am PT
|
Jessica's "bundle of joy"....
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2010 - 01:35pm PT
|
More to do!
John and Sue and crew on new Big Sleep route. If you look closely you can see all four climbers.
The orange line is Afternoon Nap, drawn for reference.
SNOW is on the way. Glad we got in one last one although I wouldn't doubt J & S are up there right now ;)
Glad to finally meet you John and Sue. It was about time! See you next year!!!!!!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2010 - 05:14pm PT
|
Nice shot you took of the route and getting all four of us on it, thanks Tom!
Great to get to meet all of you guys the night before and put faces to some of the names on this thread, Tom, Justin, Jeremy and Brandon! Also good to see Grahm and Brent again!
Big fun going up the Big Sleep dome! A few photos of the new line.
P1&2
P4
P5
P6
& Red trees
Too bad you guys didn't get a chance to try the Honda R50 - it flew going down the slabs!
p.s. Mooch, Jessica's baby looks like he just shot a gatorita!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2010 - 08:08pm PT
|
"Sleep slabbing away, sleep slabbing away
You know the nearer your destination, the more you sleep slabbing away..."
well done.
|
|
this just in
Ice climber
north fork
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2010 - 08:11pm PT
|
Susu, you survived the 50 I take it. Nice work on the big sleep and definitely great to meet you. Shuteye sherpas unite. See you guys next year.
This Justin Ross
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2010 - 08:20pm PT
|
Good to see the stones gettin' some love out there. Wish I could have have made it out there more this year...
Nice pics too!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2010 - 12:43pm PT
|
Nice pics all! Big Sleep is waking up after 20 years of no action.
The door is officially being slammed shut! Glad I got out for one last day yesterday.
Today: Mostly cloudy, with a temperature rising to near 45 by noon, then falling to around 39 during the remainder of the day. South southwest wind around 11 mph.
Tonight: Snow showers. Low around 30. South southwest wind between 9 and 13 mph. Chance of precipitation is 90%. New snow accumulation of 3 to 5 inches possible.
Saturday: Snow. Temperature falling to around 27 by 5pm. South southwest wind around 9 mph. Chance of precipitation is 90%. New snow accumulation of 3 to 5 inches possible.
Saturday Night: Snow showers. Low around 22. South southwest wind between 9 and 15 mph, with gusts as high as 20 mph. Chance of precipitation is 100%. New snow accumulation of 7 to 11 inches possible.
Sunday: Snow. High near 24. Southwest wind between 13 and 18 mph, with gusts as high as 24 mph. Chance of precipitation is 100%. New snow accumulation of 9 to 13 inches possible.
Sunday Night: A 50 percent chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 20. New snow accumulation of 1 to 3 inches possible.
Monday: A 20 percent chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 33.
Monday Night: A slight chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 20.
Tuesday: A slight chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 35.
|
|
rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2010 - 12:55pm PT
|
Are there some standout classics at Shuteye? Obviously there's alot of really good routes...but which ones are the real deal?
Like, what's the Astroman of Shuteye?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2010 - 12:24pm PT
|
Winter Storm Warning
URGENT - WINTER WEATHER MESSAGE
NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE HANFORD CA
246 AM PST SAT NOV 20 2010
...SIGNIFICANT WINTER STORM WILL IMPACT THE REGION THIS WEEKEND...
.A DEEP LOW PRESSURE AREA WILL GRADUALLY MOVE SOUTH ALONG THE
WEST COAST OVER THE NEXT FEW DAYS. THE COLD FRONT ASSOCIATED WITH
THIS SYSTEM WILL MOVE INTO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA EARLY TODAY AND
PROVIDE THE FIRST ROUND OF VERY HEAVY SNOW ACROSS THE HIGHER
ELEVATIONS OF THE SOUTHERN SIERRA NEVADA. A SECOND AND MUCH COLDER
STORM WILL MOVE INTO THE CENTRAL CALIFORNIA INTERIOR ON SUNDAY
MORNING WITH LOWER SNOW LEVELS AND VERY HEAVY SNOW ACROSS THE
HIGHER ELEVATIONS OF THE SOUTHERN SIERRA NEVADA AND INTO THE
TEHACHAPI MOUNTAINS.
TRAVEL WILL BE DIFFICULT THROUGH THE PASSES AND INTO THE NATIONAL
PARKS. LOW ELEVATION SNOW WILL ALSO MAKE TRAVEL DIFFICULT INTO
THE FOOTHILLS OF THE SOUTHERN SIERRA NEVADA.
SIERRA NEVADA FROM YOSEMITE TO KINGS CANYON-
TULARE COUNTY MOUNTAINS-
246 AM PST SAT NOV 20 2010
...WINTER STORM WARNING REMAINS IN EFFECT UNTIL 10 PM PST
SUNDAY...
A WINTER STORM WARNING REMAINS IN EFFECT UNTIL 10 PM PST SUNDAY
FOR THE HIGHER ELEVATIONS OF THE SOUTHERN SIERRA NEVADA.
* SNOW ACCUMULATIONS: TWO TO FOUR FEET ARE POSSIBLE ABOVE 6000
FEET. ONE TO TWO FEET ARE POSSIBLE ABOVE 4000 FEET.
* TIMING: PERIODS OF HEAVY SNOW CONTINUING TODAY THEN TAPERING
OFF TONIGHT BEFORE ANOTHER ROUND OF VERY HEAVY SNOW ON SUNDAY.
SNOW WILL GRADUALLY TAPER OFF BY MONDAY TO SHOWERS.
* LOCATIONS INCLUDE: CAMP NELSON...GIANT FOREST...JOHNSONDALE...
LODGEPOLE...SHAVER LAKE...YOSEMITE VALLEY.
* WINDS: SOUTH WINDS 25 TO 30 MPH WITH GUSTS TO 65 MPH OVER
HIGHER PEAKS AND THE CREST THIS EVENING AND SATURDAY
INCREASING TO 30 TO 50 MPH WITH GUSTS TO 85 MPH ON SUNDAY.
* IMPACTS: HEAVY SNOW MAY CAUSE TRAVEL DELAYS OR ROAD CLOSURES.
BLOWING AND DRIFTING SNOW WITH LOCAL WHITEOUT CONDITIONS ARE
POSSIBLE ABOVE 6000 FEET.
A WINTER STORM WARNING MEANS SIGNIFICANT AMOUNTS OF SNOW ARE
EXPECTED OR OCCURRING. STRONG WINDS ARE ALSO POSSIBLE. THIS WILL
MAKE TRAVEL VERY HAZARDOUS OR IMPOSSIBLE.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2010 - 12:44pm PT
|
There are climbs that someday will be classics. Hard to say what since not that many people seem to climb there or are uncomfotable talking about it due to some backlash. So the jury is still out. If you grab the Spencer guide and info you can glean from the web and head out there, you're likely to find gems right away. Or run into folks happy to give info in person. At Gray Eagle, there are some classics at least for the first pitch or two, and some all the way up several pitches, that is if you don't mind lichen and exfoliating bits of rock that haven't seen much of any people traffic.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2010 - 02:15pm PT
|
Astroman would be a poor route for comparison.
It is a moderate playground.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2010 - 02:20pm PT
|
Are there some standout classics at Shuteye? Obviously there's alot of really good routes...but which ones are the real deal?
No offense, dude, but it aint about all that. It's the SETTING that makes the Shuteye remarkable. And the rock quality.
There are hard routes that Mucci, Graham, John/Susu, et al. have put up, but the classics I've been on were 5.8's and 5.9's. And they were stellar.
It's really a silly question that you pose. Go and climb! You'll see.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2010 - 04:50pm PT
|
"...or are uncomfotable talking about it due to some backlash."
Opening a can of worms, are we? ;)
Totally agree with bluey......the area and the rock quality are nothing short of amazing. One or two classics (at least at Lost Eagle):
-'Three Feathers', (5.9)....climbs a line of vertical fins that border three runnels. Fun sporty moves. Interesting gear opportunities.
-'Power To The People', (5.9R)....follows a narrow runnel to open steep slab above (5.9R), slinging small knobs along the way. The remaining 40' finishes on the backside of what looks like a mammoth fist, clenched in defiance! Climb a knob lined "tendon" to the top!
But let 'em flock to the Big Ditch like lemmings and pass on by the ever magical Shuteye. Keep places like JTree....they don't know what they're missin'.
(post script @ susu) Baby Roberta "enjoys" his daily gatorita with his tasty senorita!!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2010 - 12:35am PT
|
What Mucci said.
Although I can say I've had more fun climbing at Shuteye than pretty much anywhere else I've ever climbed. Devil's tower was awesome, Black Hills Needles was fantastic, and I do like Clark Canyon and Needles. But Shuteye feels like home.
|
|
two2tandem
Trad climber
BASS LAKE, CA
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2010 - 01:13am PT
|
About a foot and a half of snow today at Cold Springs Summit at the top of Beasore after the first wave of snow came through last night. Supposed to get another two feet or so tonight.
Unless you've got something with tracks, looks like Shuteye is closed until things thaw out in June.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2010 - 02:35am PT
|
I don't think rincon was necessarily asking if there were any routes comparable to Astroman (in length and sustained difficulty) per se, although when the question was posed yesterday, I too immediately thought, wow, yea, nothing really like that to be found at Shuteye.
So what are the classics? It's a fine question, and as suggested, there are so few folks climbing in the region, and so many places and routes to climb (many of them quite new), that I don't think any one person feels qualified to define the few classics of the entire region.
Many classic moderates exist for sure, largely due to the featured granite, but I'm sure there are those who would attest that there are certainly some great hard sport routes as well as some bold testpieces throughout the region.
Bottom line: come see for yourself. IMO, probably as it should be... and the way it's been for most of the "regulars" over the years.
|
|
this just in
Ice climber
north fork
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2010 - 11:05am PT
|
Nate you're right you just got to get out there. I would recommend High Eagle because it has up to 5.13 sport routes and some really good multipitch trad routes. Grahm and I did a trad line up the left side that was put up about 20 years ago. One of the best routes I've done and it was 4 pitches with crux @ 5.10.
I believe directions are somewhere on this thread. Good luck. If you're looking for splitter cracks you won't find a plethora of them but they're out there, like Nate said go find them or wait a couple more years for the guide.
I'm @ around 3,000 feet and we have 5 inches and it's dumping now. So it most likely is done. Bummer. La Nina will get us up there in late April to May. None of this June talk, come on let's be optimistic.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2010 - 12:04pm PT
|
Awww, c'mon folks......it doesn't hurt to speak out about what you believe are classic. Nothing in that sentence that defines WHO/WHAT/WHY.
Nate, you always were vague.......don't be sceered. Break out of "safe answer mode"....
So, I'll pose the question:
"What do route(s) do YOU believe could be potential classics?"
|
|
rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2010 - 12:04pm PT
|
Yeah I just used the Astroman comparison because it's supposed to be the best route in the Valley. I've seen it compared to like that in the Seki guide, where it says A Tall Cool One is "the Astroman of Kings Canyon"...that's all.
I haven't had the pleasure of climbing there yet and I'm curious if there was anything worthy of being called The Best Route at Shuteye. Supposedly there's a guidebook in the works...will there be some sort of star desination for the good routes or will it be lacking one of the most useful functions of a guidebook?
There's got to be routes there that stand out (thanks Dave for mentioning a couple) from all the others, or routes with a reputation as a bold lead, like the Carson / Kodas Arete.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2010 - 03:27pm PT
|
I think it is going to be tough to assign a star system to many of the routes at shuteye.
Sport routes, sure. High eagle, 557's, Etc are all proven as classy sportclimbing areas. Many a folk have been there and repeated the routes.
As far as ALL of the other destinations, which get maybe 3-5 teams a season?
I don't know how you can attach a *** rating on a route that has seen less than 3 ascents.
I could name 50+ gear routes that have not seen a second ascent. Just throwing a # out there...
How could you determine the quality on routes that have only the FA's word to go on?
Classic to me is walking up, and picking the best looking line/stone one can see, a perfect corner, a perfect flake, a knobby wall. A route that one is drawn to and climbs as good as it looks.
But one cannot attach "Classic ***" until others have confirmed it's worthiness IMHO.
Here is to a good winter delay!
Mucci
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2010 - 08:22pm PT
|
Ya, we got a little snow at our house too.
As far as star ratings go I have to include them in the guide even though many of the routes have not seen a second ascent. Climbing most of the routes myself helps put them in to context when comparing them against each other. I enjoy gear, sport, solo, ground up and top down routes so I don't really favor one over another. Many people have said that even some of the "bad" climbs at Shuteye would be "great" if they were located at other areas.
A 5 star system would be to much for now with so many routes unrepeated. And over 600 to rate.
I am going with a 3 star system, more basic and harder to screw up. Every route will have at least 1 star.
Each wall will most likely have its own 3 star route. Compared to other routes on the same wall but not necessarily the whole of Shuteye.
1 star - climb it after you have done the others on the wall.
2 star - recommended, good quality.
3 star - If you can only climb one or two at this wall these are the select few to get on for sure, regardless of grade.
I am also using feed back from others to help get a consensus on the routes they have climbed and put up.
Once everything has been compiled and star rated I hope to offer the top 20 must do climbs for Shuteye. Again, input from you all will be critical to getting this done but also very difficult as most have not sampled even half of the routes at Shuteye. But, if you have climbed or sampled all the routes on one wall your opinions would be much appreciated for that wall.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2010 - 12:13am PT
|
Snow - boooo!
Shuteye... see you next spring!
Grahm, good luck on a top 20. Impossible getting a consensus on that one.
Mucci right again. And my own opinion is that what makes three star routes good is FINDING them after doing the one and two star routes.
If all you do is show up and climb the classics, something will be lacking for sure, like perspective. And a lot of the 1 and 2 star routes are better than the 2 and 3 star routes at other areas. And what appeals to one climber might not appeal to another (OW, too hard, too easy, not steep, too steep, bolts, no bolts, etc.).
Some of the routes i did in 2007 that I thought were "amazing!" are now not as amazing compared to the other routes I've climbed since.
I think Shuteye is more about the place and the experience, not just about classics. If you're just route poaching, then you're gonna miss out on so much...
I'm sure we can all give suggestions... Vertical Dawn, Playing with Matches, Dreaming in Color, Walkabout, but you wouldn't know what the hell we were talking about or where to find 'em.
Better to get out there and stumble upon some of 'em. Like they said, use your eyes and pick what looks good.
are we up to 1500 posts already? damn
|
|
this just in
Ice climber
north fork
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2010 - 11:01am PT
|
No Tom we're at 1501.
|
|
this just in
Ice climber
north fork
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2010 - 11:08am PT
|
Walkabout is 2 star Dreaming in Color is 3 star. Not sure about the other two. Tom do you concur?
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2010 - 03:39pm PT
|
Rincon,
Here are a few routes Vernon gave 2 or 3 stars that might interest you. All are in the 3-5 pitch range on incredible rock. I'd love to hear from anyone who has climbed the routes on Queen's Throne and can confirm the quality. Tork perhaps? I've got to get out there eventually. Vernon said most of these routes would be considered "superclassic" in any other area.
Queen's Throne:
Snake Eyes 5.12c 1989 Eric Richard, Herb Laeger, 5/89
Catching Some Shuteye 5.11b 1989 Herb Laeger, Eric Richard, Eve Laeger, 6/89
A Climber's Requiem 5.10c 1987 Eric Richard, Herb Laeger, Greg Vernon, 10/87
Midnight Caller 5.11d or 5.10 A1 1989 Greg Vernon, Blaine Neeley, 89; FFA: Mark Spencer, 6/90
Risin' of the Moon 5.10 . 1988 Greg Vernon, Herb Laeger, Eve Laeger, 9/88
Black Madonna 5.12a or 5.10a A1 Greg Vernon, Hollan Holmes, 7/90, FFA Herb and Eve Laeger.
Whiplash 5.12a or 5.10b A2 Eric Richard, Herb Laeger, 5/89
Wait Until Dark 5.10c 1989 Ron Carson, Greg Vernon, Blain Neeley, 6/89
Welcome to Shuteye Ridge 5.11a . Herb Laeger, Bob Kamps, Eve Laeger, 10/88
Crown Jewel 5.12b 1989 Eric Richard, Herb Laeger, Bob Kerry, 6/89
Jeepers Creepers 5.11 . Herb Laeger, Eric Richard, Bob Kerry, 6/89
Coronet 5.8 . Royal Robbins, et al, mid 70s
(NOTE: a number of these routes may need bolt replacement)
High Eagle:
Eine Kleine Nachtmusik 5.10a 1988 Jim Matthews, Greg Vernon, 10/88 (Is this what you climbed recently Justin and Grahm, or was it Song of the Night 5.10a 1987 Eric Richard, Herb Laeger, Greg Vernon, 10/87 ?)
Chiquito Dome:
August Knights 5.10c 1986 Vaino Kodas, Patrick Paul, 8/86
Sahib 5.10b 1983 Tom Higgins, Chris Vandiver, 7/83
(unfortunately, these first two routes will now be rather hard to follow, due to a number of modern lines which now cross them. Sahib in particular, was purported to be a very ballsy lead)
Elegance 5.11a 1980 Tom Higgins, Chris Vandiver, 11/80 (This is supposed to be THE classic bold route on the dome, and thanks to Clint C. it's bolts have been upgraded, thanks to Clint and the ASCA. http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/621065/Elegant-Inclinations-Chiquito-rebolting-photo-TR-6-7-08 Clint can confirm the quality.)
Top Gun 5.10a 1986 Greg Vernon, Blaine Neeley, 7/86
Thomas Hartmann gave these routes 3 stars (but as with some of the routes above, this is the FAists word only):
Minerva Dome:
Massively Parallel 5.10d 1993 Felix Gropp, Thomas Hartmann, 9/93; FFA: Roger Leuthner, Stephen Ruoss
Greed, Envy, Gluttony, Sloth, Lust, Pride, Wrath 5.10a 1996 Elaine Cocuzzo, Thomas Hartmann, 9/96
(The Godar's can confim the quality)
Fallen Eagle:
Judgement Day 5.10a 1996 Elaine Cocuzzo, Thomas Hartmann, 9/96
As for bold testpieces, aside from Elegance and Sahib on Chiquito Dome, Carson certainly made his mark in a few places, and those routes are bound to be spooky. Don't know who else has climbed the lines, so who can confirm the quality? Grahm?
As discussed some time ago in this thread, the star system definitely has it's drawbacks and kinks. However, anyone new to an area, including myself, usually appreciates the recommendations.
I would think for the top 20 classic routes, it'd be handy to have them categorized by grade, and maybe even trad vs. sport within those grades.
mooch,
As for "potential" classics to which I am quite biased, knowing them intimately, I agree with yours, and would also include "Seek and Ye Shall Find" 5.8 - a natural line of weakness up steep knobs. And there are some new ones in the backwoods that may qualify. Time will tell.
|
|
rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2010 - 09:12pm PT
|
Thanks you guys, good info!!
I am looking forward to a guidebook. With so many different rocks, and all those routes, and history, it's overdue. Sure it will bring more climbers...maybe even some Lemmings too haha! And I sure hope they have some of those really cool cartoon drawings like in the old Spencer guide.
Too bad about August knights and Sahib, it'll be interesting to see how the topo looks for that.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2010 - 09:43pm PT
|
this just in
-you're being way too humble... Walkabout gave me that "this is so damn cool" feeling on that steep headwall. 3 in my book holmes... and GU and "no bolts!" despite the RBBC creed.
Rincon, I can only recommend routes I've actually climbed, otherwise I'd be just telling you what others liked and I have no idea what they consider classic. Some of those sickos think chimneys are classic ;)
Even with recommendations... that won't get ya very far.
But I hear that John and Sue are good guides ;) ;) ;)
Get out there and enjoy the Shuteye vibe and pretty soon everything feels classic.
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2010 - 10:28pm PT
|
Heard from my buddy wintering in at the bottom of Grizzly Road that his meadow at 5100 feet has 27 inches of slop and powder. Meadow Bob also says that the wind is coming up something fierce - he can see big arcing swirls of ground blizzard by the light of the moon coming off Shuteye about 2 miles to his west.
Brrr.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2010 - 10:30pm PT
|
I'm guessing more slop than powder.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2010 - 11:42am PT
|
HAPPY THANKSGIVING all you So Yo types!
Tom
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2010 - 11:49am PT
|
Now that the season is over, for those of us without snow mobiles, what was your favorite route?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2010 - 11:57am PT
|
Do tell JR.
If you tell me you did Runnel Vision before I bolted it, I will cry. Doesn't matter, I am always crying anyways.
|
|
this just in
Ice climber
north fork
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2010 - 12:05pm PT
|
Tork, your climbs on runnel vision looked awesome but I didn't try them, next year. Happy Thanksgiving soyo's.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
|
I love doing ground up adventure routes but I also love fun sport routes. That is one of my favorite things about Shuteye, you have both. I had been looking for a wall like the Runnel Vision wall for a long time. Was so psyched when I found it. IMO Runnel Vision and the route to it's left are two of the best sport routes I have been on.
That being said, Eschers Way is by far the best multi pitch route I have done at Shuteye. I think it is also the longest continuous route out there. The Queen's Throne is longer but after a few crux moves, not so continuous. When you look up at Escher's you have no idea where the route goes. Even pitch by pitch it is not so obvious. I still don't know how John was able to drill the first bolt on pitch 2 in stance??? My only complaint is that damn piton! John!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2010 - 10:12pm PT
|
Beasore Summit (Cold Springs Summit) at a little over 7,000 feet on Sunday.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2010 - 10:34pm PT
|
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2010 - 11:22pm PT
|
hahaha, nutty!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2010 - 12:19am PT
|
groan...
another season lookin' at Grahm jumping around in the snow and climbing rocks none of us can get to. Are you freakin' barefoot!?
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
|
Nice photo Tom, and Merry Holidays all!
Lotta snow up there already.
I was pretty much just a spectator this year, Tork, so no favorites for me. And I know pictures can lie, but Runnel Vision looked like a tasty trad wall to me. :) But I do know you concoct quality sport!
Oh, and Tork, seeing as you are probably one of the most well travelled Shuteye climbers, what say you to the older "3 star routes" listed above? "Elegance", "Greed, Envy, Gluttony...", "Massively Parallel", "Welcome to Shuteye", "A Climber's Requiem", "Eine Kleine..." etc. etc.? Do you concur?
Would love to also hear favorites from the semi-lurkers here. Speak up boys - you know who you are.
|
|
this just in
Ice climber
north fork
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2010 - 04:46pm PT
|
Nate, Song of the Night is the 10a on High Eagle we did. For sure three stars, I was a little worried about using 20 year old bolts, but it was all trad so no worries there. My personal favorite was called The Spaceman but it is short, so probably only two stars.
EDIT. Are semi-lurkers semi-pussies?
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2010 - 08:31pm PT
|
Some of my favorites include Book of Spring Pages and When Dreams Come True, first pitches anyway, and almost all routes right and left! ;)
Seriously, there are so many potential classics in the neighborhood, still gritty from being less traveled, but there are many routes I would
like to climb and climb again. The OWs Pink Baloon and Sleeping Giant have potential to be classics just because they are stunning, fun lines, despite the heavy gear needed to climb them. Though the overall setting of Shuteye and the stunning views of the mountains are possibly biasing me in favor of Shuteye climbs period.
What little we've climbed high on the ridge, Crack Attack was cool, as was the aspect of the rock generally in that nook. Plus some no name crack climb w/roof on 50-5.7s, first one reached when the trail comes closest to the dome... as fun as it is dirty. Elsewhere, Lost Eagle's Melting Wall is classic in an of itself. It amazes me to find great cam and nut placements among the chicken head features.
Very nice comments on Escher's, Jeff! Sweet to hear, whacked piton and all... It's probably the most fun I've ever had topping out on a climb yet.
Edit: Arrrgh.... Why I havn't wanted to contribute on this topic.... Sounds of spray when I just want to enjoy great memories.
All apologies for any spray parts.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Grahm... R u barefoot in that photo?! What are SE conditions now?
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
susu,
You do know that this whole thread is pretty much about spray, right?
Sometimes it's just a bit more specific.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Barefoot but not pregnant. Freezing your foot solid in snow and then climbing is WAY better than any sticky rubber I've tried.
SE conditions...Bring your crampons and ice axes :-)
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Nate, I've done a lot less up there than you may think and a ton less than I would like to do. Like Sue, Gray just keeps calling me back.
I still have not been to the Queens Throne but the Royal Boulder Garden on top is stacked with a bunch of fun stuff.
On High Eagle, for trad, Eine Kleine Nachtmusik was very good and the most obvious line on the wall. The song of the Night was also classic. East Crack was also a fun route, hard for 5.8 and a bit dirty, needs a bit of lovin. Crack Attack, unsure of real name and fa party, is my favorite single pitch there but the bolt that is now right next to the crack takes away from it for sure. Also, the long 11c to the left is one of my favorite sport routes on the ridge.
I love Chiquito Dome but am not bold enough to do the classic Higgins routes. I stay away from Higgins routes. Elegance looks incredible, has to be classic. May have to dig deep inside and give that one a go some day. I still want to do something to mark Sahib and replace any 1/4"s that are still there. I have to say a couple of the routes that cross it are incredible. That face is so amazing. A couple others there are just wrong. I also agree that Top gun is very fun as is the Acolyte.
Have not climbed on Fallen Eagle, so I still need to check out Judgement Day.
Everything on Minerva that I have done is great. I enjoyed both Massively Parallel and 7 Deadly Sins both 2 star routes(was quite gripped on 7 Deadly). Old Man's Dream and Young Man's Fancy are classics and Tail Feather looks steller as well, another bolt replacement project. All the new stuff there is all very good as well.
this just in, tell me more about Spaceman!
Sue, sorry if you think this is all spray. I like hearing about other folks experiences/memories out there, especially this time of year. And I really love all the photos of the area(post em if ya got em). If I can't be there at least I can read about it and enjoy the pics.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
The Spaceman is a 12a that I put up. One bolt, one nut and slings for knobs. Crux is 15 feet off the deck and out a roof. The route is very fun but it's short (maybe 50 feet). Grahm got the second. I'm not sure what the name of the wall is.
What did you name the two to the left of runnel vision? Is June warmer than Wawona? I know it gets more sun but that wind is cold over there. Last couple of winters I was working in Yosemite West and Wawona. Yosemite West had more snow but Wawona was way colder.
SUSU, what are you spraying? Smells like laquer, I love laquer.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Great to be hearing all the feedback on some routes. Spaceman is really cool, but Space Cowboy to the left is even better I think. Still needs a second...Justin ;-)
Crack Attack is actually VA VA Voom by Dan and Urmas in 2004. For sure 3 star. The original line goes up the dihedral to one bolt then goes left into the crack. I added a 3 bolt left start to it in 2007. Eagles Gift 12a another 3 star route goes up the same dihedral but then straight over the roof and then right through bolts.
Illuminati is the 11b to the left, Brent Webster 2007. Its a great route and pretty popular but the top bolts do detract from Va Va Vooms finish. I skipped the bolts and used gear for Va Va Voom but when doing Illuminati I clipped them cause the rest of it was all bolts.
Havent tried Jeffs new one or Elegance on Chiquito yet to see how they compare to the other routes. They both look amazing from the ground.
So hard to pick just one route as THE classic for each wall. Even if you do you'll still have a list of over 50 must do routes! Narrowing that down to like 20 must do's is going to break some hearts.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
The cowboy is awesome, I mean "Amazing ", for sure better and yes I need to get it. Grahm the doctor gave me some pills, an xray, and told me come back in a month. So I guess he gave me the go ahead on snowmobiling.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Grahm, put your shoes back on, get off the snow bike, and just put out a guidebook already ;)
then we can get all the beta and spend the rest of our lives climbing all those awesome routes!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
So Nate and I have been talking about the meaning of a "golden era" and are wondering when, for Shuteye, that would have been.
So far our definition of a Golden Era has included the discovery of 'new' formations, increase in these discoveries, but not limited to the 'most' routes by number.
In jest:
70s RR era - Classic Rock era
80s-90s Delk/Kodas/Vernon/Hartman etc. - Hard Rock era
2000-05 Jones etc. New Wave / Rap era (get it!?)
05- Present - Modern Rock
(names not present doesn't by any means mean they weren't there :)
Grahm mentioned that perhaps it started with RR and is still going on, so all of these "waves" of discovery would be considered "Golden".
Any ideas?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Sweet! I have some parts coming in next week so both snomo's will be up in action. We'll go tear it up.
We'll have to get some climbing in too and post up the pics just to make Slater jealous! ;-)
Jeff and Sue, would love to hear what you would choose as the #1 and #2 route of best quality at any grade for Grey, Red, Minerva and Owl Wall each. Bar none.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Where are Spaceman and Space Cowboy? How hard is Space Cowboy?
Jeff
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Shuteye Express - beep beep
2 people, 1,000 lb. payload.
Sweet...
(Grahm, don't run me over ;)
|
|
Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
|
|
bump for a SE guide book, now there's a new year's goal....
perhaps a "Golden Era" isn't realized until long AFTER the era, when that high and mighty mental state called hindsight can weigh in with some perspective.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
This Just In, Nate, Tork... you got me there, a fine mist of spray is all good in the name of sharing some desired info, and I always want to see more climbing posts and photos here for sure! Recent posts show how much more there is to climb at Shuteye than what we have already. Appreciate your question, Grahm, I just really gotta climb more routes yet. If push comes to shove, if forced to make a decision about a favorite climb on Gray, so far, it's Escher's for me, though so much of that is because it was a great experience. And it's really tough deciding bc I love so many first to second pitches on that dome.
Edit... Slater, so, does it pop wheelies?
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
Slater- how's that thing treating you?
I've looked at those, but I was unsure of their capability?
How are they on steep?
How about in powder?
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Dec 26, 2010 - 08:40am PT
|
Happy holidays soyo sherpas. Already having withdrawals, deep sweats and uncontrollable shakes.
2011 season has the cure. Can't wait.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Dec 26, 2010 - 11:54am PT
|
Nice lookin' ride, Slater.
I just checked my answering machine and who other than Kev and Photonez (Ezra) left me a "Merry Christmas" cheer from Arizona. Guys are unstoppable climbers....
Said something about climbing on Superstition Mtn. Climb on, boyz!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Dec 27, 2010 - 12:02pm PT
|
Happy Holidays! These were taken up at Little Shuteye last week.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2010 - 10:27pm PT
|
This is the bathroom up at Beasore summit on Monday, its getting DEEP up there...
Local climber "thisjustin" trying out the 900 and getting in some practice for riding up to the crags.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2010 - 10:30pm PT
|
Nice to see you guyz getting in some winter exercising, Graham!
Looks fun.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Dec 31, 2010 - 10:29am PT
|
Getting some practice in. Thanks Grahm that sounds way better than getting stuck, oh a dozen or so times plus I only hit two trees. Never been so sore in my life. Pretty fuking fun though.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
First decent of Big Sleep anyone?
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Yahooooo!
Grahm, Grahm, Grahm... !
Ride down it on your snhomobile!
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
Steep and Deep!!
Love to board that
|
|
Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2011 - 01:19am PT
|
Whoa! That is some deep snow!
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2011 - 01:23am PT
|
Everything on the big sleep in winter is a BLUE run.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2011 - 09:04am PT
|
Blue runs for sure, just watch out for cliffs and unstable snow on granite domes. Don't have to worry about getting freshies though.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2011 - 05:16pm PT
|
Ha ha, then DO IT!//
I will show up with camera and video gear! (and a stretcher/preacher)
That would be some rad boardin'!!!!!
5.9 downhillin'
I wanna see GRahm do it on his homobile too!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 12:21am PT
|
How you boys (and Sue) handling the off season?
Pics?
We're getting a lot of this...
So that makes up for it.
Snow's melting fast I bet...
when the surf dies it'll be time to head back up the hill.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Might as well keep the ball rolling with a few climbing related pics.
Fun protection opportunities...
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
My winter bouldering area, Squaw Leap.
South Fork Willow Creek runs behind my house.
Almost stepped on this guy running
Jeremy's first climb since he broke his ankle, Eight months ago.
More from the River Gorge.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Nate, you captured the creative gear placements that defines the Shuteye. BADASS!!!!!!!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
must be newt season... almost stepped on one at Tollhouse last weekend.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Happy fing groundhogs day. Early Spring!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
Cool shots Nate, Three Feathers was a great line, very steep.
Everything over there is steep !
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
tji,
That rock right down by the water at Squaw Leap is downright slick. Wouldn't wanna fall in during the winter months!
Mucci,
Home made hanger? Beefy!
Three Feathers is a neat one. Beckoned to be climbed for sure. Ya don't want to pass up any protection opportunities in the first 30 ft.
Tom,
Haven't taken too many pictures of pro until recently, and some were on the follow, like the double nut - one as keeper - placed by Roger on a bold runout FA. Did ya cook the broken chicken head for dinner that night? Good riddance!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Two nuts are better than one ;)
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
Great pro, Nate.
g
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Muhahahahahahaaaa!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Nice juicy golden plate.
And nice crop. ;)
Gene,
SoYo knob pulling is in order for you this year!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Lovin all the photos!
Justin, glad to see the Leap getting some love. Miss that place, if this darn sunny streak keeps going I'll be meeting ya down there. Stoked Jeremy is climbing again. My 2nd snowmobile is in the shop in more capable hands than mine. Rode up to Little Shuteye yesterday and easily could have climbed on Half Day Dome, its warm up there.
Not quite melted out yet ;-)
Leo on Chilkoot lake.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
These photos were from April 4, 2010. We needed to see how the Shuteye was doing.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
South Eagle Beak.
Of course we know Minerva and Gray, home sweet home.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Yeah no need to ask about those ones. It was the North Beak though. At least I think??
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
This one looks a lot friendlier in the summer.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Yea, North Eagle beak, right? And the other "name this dome" is what Jack Delk called "Eaglet Tower" in front of Red Eagle. Anyone heard it referred to as anything else? Any short climbs on it, or is it not worthy?
EDIT: Tork, seeing as you got that friendly summer photo of it's S. Face, did ya scamper up it?
Very cool winter excursion. Grey looks so much smaller with all that snow at the base for some reason. And NO bushwhacking!!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Here are a couple of the Beaks from the north
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
No Nate, but I did get halfway up, inside, on the east face. Very cool secret passage with a crawl through to the north face. You end up in a room looking about 40 or so feet down the steep north face.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
the beaks ...and a fish.
cool pics. I remember when Grahm first posted a photo of the Fish (before it had a name) some time ago in this very thread. Looked to be 20' tall, but pics deceive.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Nate, not all fish are big.
Did a short dirty overhanging crack on the north side, very fun.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Name, rating?
Addition for the Slater topo.
Here is N. Eagle Beak way in the distance.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Daja View ... I like your photo better.
Name: Hard and Dirty or The Way We Like It
Rating: dirty hard
More pics please
|
|
Banquo
Trad climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
A trip to the beaks. Mid or late 90's?
Those were my favorite climbing shoes of all time. The 1st gen Five Tennies were crappy climbing shoes, floppy and wore our fast.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Looking at Tork's pic of the Fish (Nice shot by the way with the clouds and all), the line to the right of the roof in the middle is one of the most exhilarating 5.10s I've done up there. It goes over the roof at the top. One .5" below your feet and you gotta go for the lip. Queer sequence with some pucker... good fun!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Awesome share, Banquo! Was there a summit register that you recall? I imagine the beaks get few ascents. Which route did you take? Or was it a new line called "Mismatched Shoes" or "Manzanita Munched My Shoe"?
Tom,
Tork told me that was a good 'un!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Banquo,
Your second shot is looking up the SW side of S. Eagle Beak. Matt Schutz has done a line up that face.
Any more pics??
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Glad this thread is coming back to life a bit...
Can't wait for the season to kick in (May maybe!?!)
Yeah, the Fish is small (65') but just tall enough to be worth the stop, and the rock quality is superb. And the approach is just plain simple.
|
|
Banquo
Trad climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
Nate-
Since the guy I was with wouldn't lead, I started up something that I recall as slabby and looking runout but bailed when only one foot would stick with confidence. I don't really recall what we did after that but it would have been pretty wimpy. I can't recall anything about registers.
|
|
Banquo
Trad climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
There is about a half roll of film taken that day. Lots of landscape shots since I was still trying to orient myself. I tried not to scan any of these backward but I tend to do that.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Tom, that route was a good one. Pucker factor for sure. I remember a heel hook or two. I remember getting sideways. And I remember some weird mantel. Also for some reason I remember thinking a lot about my ankles.
Nate, any info on Matts route?
Banquo, thanks for the share.
Jeff
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
lol -- you DO get sideways -that mantel is tough! you nailed it! Just not your typical go "up" route.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Tom, how many routes did you do on the Fish? I know I saw a couple of other bolted routes also a few other lines that look to take great gear.
Jeff
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Off the front page so fast. Gotta make room for politics and bitching about alot.
I know you all got pics.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Like 7? To the best of our knowledge that left slanting crack on the right (about 5.6) was the only one done before (FA Hal Murray & Paul Doherty, 6-2003). The JRs can tell you a funny story about the anchor they "put in" with no hammer after their "first ascent" of the same crack, ha ha.
All the routes are bolts/pro (slings/cams) or just pure pro. Gotta love Shuteye. You sure save a lot on bolts ;)
We didn't do any more because we didn't want to do any squeeze jobs.
There are two hard cracks on the far left side (around corner on left in shadow) that we tried but couldn't do. Have at 'em! 5.11s?
Glad this thread is pretty devoid of BS and politics etc. Bump
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
Sick.
What is this I hear about the road being plowed to Mammoth pools?
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Mucci, hop on that 50 and check it out for us!
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
It is freshly tuned....
It was just a rumor though, not actual proof.
Sweet pictures Banq's!
The fish looks like a standard, perfect crag of shuteye.
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
Mucci - sounds early for plowing - but the only ones that do "first plow" of the season to Mammoth Pools are the SoCal Edison boys.
Used to know a guy there I would call but he passed away last year - you might try the Fresno office or better yet, call the North Fork Forest Service office at (559) 877-2218 - tell them you are a property owner in that area - they will usually give you the scoop.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
Thanks for the info Big D!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Hey Mucci Man!
Yep Tom, Dirty and Hard
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
WHOOOOOOOP!!!!
Tork- your Ralston is in the works.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Did a short dirty overhanging crack on the north side, very fun. My partner actually had to rap back in and retrieve pro on that one ha ha. Really short, but awkward and hard. What'd you think rating wise?
Justin - sweet winter pics! You did the approach in snow in Vans? Ado could double as a coyote any day. Hollywood here she comes! She can date Marmaduke and Scooby.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Tom, Vans are great approach shoes, just not as good as crampons on the steeper stuff.
Adu is almost 40 so her Hollywood days are done.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
When you gonna post up your Tollhouse endeavors?
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Soon Tom, I'm thinking tonight, but I didn't get to many pics. Your TR filled up the parking lots, luckily most were learning the ropes, so we had the main wall to ourselves before some more locals showed up. Perfect weather for a noon o'clock start.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Well hopefully there were some women there to meet... help them adjust their harnesses? Your welcome ;)
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Wait, wait I gotta share my Fish pic too!
A few action shots by thisjustin...
Space Cowboy 12a
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 03:12pm PT
|
Some of you may recognize this tree on top of High Eagle. Thanks to Nate for suggesting to Prana that they use my pic!
Also I hear Tom has an article in Climbing about Shuteye. Haven't seen it yet.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 03:20pm PT
|
The uncropped version...
|
|
socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 04:55pm PT
|
Congrats Grahm!
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 08:38pm PT
|
Grahm can I have your autograph?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
|
Nope
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 09:49pm PT
|
shit yeah, I seen ya in that climbing mag. I'm in Whistler and there are snowmobiles everywhere, bro.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 10:01pm PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 10:06pm PT
|
Dude I was just thinking the same thing. Fuk yes, I love photoshop. It's called a water pipe though, bud......
RBBC
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 11:32pm PT
|
dude I think we just crack ourselves up
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 02:03am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 09:30am PT
|
"Bring some gear next time."
Yes, bring a crack pipe and an extra water pipe.
Grahm, that is funny, I always knew Tom was a closet crack head.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 11:04am PT
|
ha ha ha.
Hey, yeah Grahm, what's the bolt doing so close to a crack!? Shame on you!
Did someone say crack? Slater flyin' high at Shuteye on MEMORABLE FA! ;)
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
|
Dude you found my bong.
Edit: I mean water pipe
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 05:12pm PT
|
Gee Grahm....just when I thought you had experienced tying off desperate knobs and placing marginal cams, this would change your bolting habits.
You surprise me again.....
...or not. You too Tom? Hmmmmm.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 08:50pm PT
|
Gee Mooch, can't we have a little fun without the bolt police coming out? ;-)
I guess the pic is a little misleading. The route does not go up the crack. It actually traverses in from the climbers right on knobs. You never actually go into the crack at all. Plus even if you wanted to go over to it and place gear its flared and gritty. yuck.
Maybe you should climb it before you assume its bolted wrong.
Back to the shenanigans...
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
|
"See You In Heaven" is still the 5.10 by which I measure all others...
I could do that route over and over! I did the FA and didn't place a bolt!!
ha ha - Magic! ;)
more photoshop please... we're still a long ways from home...
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
|
Justin sans bong on the Hangover V1X.
And then it just got worse and worse...
Sixty foot V3s... I was almost afraid to watch.
Freakin' talented folks... or nuts?
ps- whoever posts at the top of the page should from here on out post a pic...
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 10:03pm PT
|
V3x "Go Big or Go Home"
I'll go home...
this went up for another 50 or so feet? If you fell... well... we won't even go there...
The locals went big that day. Just sayin'...
Would still like to see someone do that last line... the ledge pinches off to a width of 2'... No Margin (that's what you can call it). You fall off, you're done. It's another 25 feet down from there... and at least a V1 or V2. Big balls... whose on it?!
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 11:29am PT
|
I want to do it, but not to stoked on that landing. I want to get on Gram's V3 also.
Grahm, you're getting good at photoshop hope the guides going well.
No need for trouble in our hills. Dave, let's go climbing bolts or not, it's all fun.
I agree that tying knobs is the best and most fun so let's go and do some.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
|
You can barely see my arms in the bottom of the pic. Figured if you lobed off, you and your spotter were going to keep tumbling down the cliff. I was the back up safety catch. Got your back bro.
The last one on the end is going to be even more dicey. At least with the others the crux is relatively low with decent landings. The last one has a nasty landing right from the start.
Guide is creeping along. Working on Dreamscape now and dialing in the routes on Voodoo. Casey has been helping out on his Voodoo routes from 1998.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 01:20pm PT
|
Plus even if you wanted to go over to it and place gear its flared and gritty. yuck.
Gee,.....Aliens fix the flairing issue. And slings fix the rope drag issue. Gritty? Clean it. 'Course, I'm not the only one who feels that way. But if you're doing 50 to 60' V3's, why not bolt it? Isn't it your MO anyway?
NEXT.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 02:06pm PT
|
Stoked Grahm!
Getting psyched up for this summer!
I want the front row seat when you do No Margin!
Dave, I think you should go climb it before you totally condemn it.
I don't recall seeing a crack on the entire route. From what I remember it comes in at an angle and they converge at the very top at the anchor. See You in Heaven is a face route. That picture is misleading I think.
I marked where the start of the route is... you do a thin thin slab )crux? or one of them (roof!).
I think we've all done routes on all natural pro, mixed, and sport too. Maybe we should just trust each other? Everyone interprets things differently. I don't see rampant crack bolting going on up at Shuteye. There is plenty of variety me thinks. Whatever... I'll climb them all. The rock is fun!
NEXT
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 03:22pm PT
|
Interesting quote from RURP:
TO YOUR LEFT!!@#!
SHAME on U!!@!@
Bring some gear next time.
NEXT
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
|
Thanks Mooch and Rurp. It's called style.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 04:07pm PT
|
Personally... I'd climb a route before I spouted about how someone botched it. Otherwise you might end up looking stupid...
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 05:54pm PT
|
So it's an integrity thing, is it Slater?
Got a black kettle on order for you.....
I don't need to climb the route....the photo speaks the truth. Too bad you can't see past your own agenda.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 06:35pm PT
|
What exactly do you think the big agenda is?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 07:10pm PT
|
Yup, Casey was a huge help! Serpent and Rainbow however have been a bit harder to pin down exactly. We know where the anchor is roughly so I think this summer I'll just have to go climb them and get them dialed in.
I am putting in some of the bouldering but not all. The book is already gonna be thick! Do you have any good old pics we can use? The bouldering is amazing out there isn't it? I can send you the photo topo we are working on for Voodoo if you think you can help with Serpent and Rainbow.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 07:12pm PT
|
You know Grahm (wink wink) the BIG "Agenda" cough cough
Grahm, when you get the 900 fixed let me know!
I'm more than ready!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 07:24pm PT
|
oh ya, the big agenda...wait I forgot, what was it again?
Here is the photo for Voodoo I was referring to and Caseys topo.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2011 - 02:29am PT
|
Fellas,
I suppose it wouldn't be the glorious wild west without a skirmish now and then. Indeed, thar be gold in them thar hills (and a bit of stainless steel)!
Dave L.,
Talk to the boys, as someone's gotta have a few pics of ya'll playing in the woods! And you are right that many have passed thru the hills and it's tough to pin down the details. If I'm not mistaken, Grahm will be crediting some route as PFAs (possible first ascent) as it's so hard to be sure.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2011 - 09:27pm PT
|
Still gonna be awhile...
Big Sleep looked like a ski resort slope.
Glad I used Stainless Steel!
Saw the SJRG and some big rocks out that way too! ;)
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Feb 21, 2011 - 01:35pm PT
|
No way! We saw a plane flying around, can't believe that was you! We were snomoing around Little Shuteye Peak.
Doing a little flying of our own.
Thats DEEP powder. No trees were harmed in the taking of this pic.
Riding into this creek would be a bad idea.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Feb 21, 2011 - 02:49pm PT
|
Fluffy! That creek looks like a death trap!
Yeah, we saw one other plane up there too. Tons of clouds made it sketchy but dramatic. Shot over 370 photos. Some for the new Tollhouse guidebook.
Saw a big Balloon, some eagles, a fish, a crocodile, and one lost bird buried in a ton of snow among other things ... ;)
Very fun.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 21, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
|
Wow.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Feb 21, 2011 - 11:36pm PT
|
Nate you're supposed to post a pic at the top...
Frosty...
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Feb 21, 2011 - 11:46pm PT
|
Planes, snow toys, Sick.
More pics please.
First descent of Big sleep should have been done by now....
Mucci
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2011 - 12:42am PT
|
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2011 - 12:58am PT
|
WHOA!!!!
DAMN. Unreal
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2011 - 01:02am PT
|
BIG air could be had off the top of the Aerie. Landing is probably a little too flat, though.
Too cool. I'd break out the backcountry skis if I lived closer.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2011 - 02:21am PT
|
so which is the big rock behind the lodge off of Chilnualna road?
looking for guidebook now...
edit - must be Wawona
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2011 - 02:31am PT
|
YUP WOWO dome.
Torks playground.
World class stone.
Gotta find the pic of the "Blowhole" on Fatty....
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2011 - 02:00pm PT
|
I'm a rock collector.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2011 - 02:03pm PT
|
You have some real Gems in your collection!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2011 - 02:12pm PT
|
Grahm, Go Pro... my buddies use them while surfing.
On a dynamic sport route it'd make good footage I think!
Can't wait to check it out when I get home. any wipeouts?
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2011 - 04:27pm PT
|
I'm a rock collector.
Me too. 'Cept, like many, I've been doing it vicariously thru satellite imagery since before Google sat. and earth existed.
One of hundreds in my dusty old collection:
A plane flight would be a lot more fun.
That's some marvelous looking fluff Grahm!
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2011 - 10:04pm PT
|
Fluffy indeed.....looks like a blast!!
Any backcountry boarding opportunities??
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
|
Oh ya, there is boarding opportunities. If you know the climber Mike B from Bass Lake he and his buddies ride in on snomos and cross-country/downhill locally.
I wiped out good on a hill climb. Just waiting for my buddies to finish editing down the footage.
Another foot of snow coming in!
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2011 - 01:21pm PT
|
Pray for SUN!!!!!!!!
Vote no on SNOW!!!!!!!!!!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2011 - 02:09pm PT
|
You got my vote
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2011 - 02:28pm PT
|
Wow, those pix are sick! Makes me want to road trip. I bet you had a killer time out there.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2011 - 02:39pm PT
|
Eight feet of snow while I was up there, epic. Snowboarded by myself for four hard days, fresh powder all day everyday. You still going on a night ride tonight?
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
|
This Just In... make sure Ado is properly attired...
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
|
nice, a dog snuggy. Looks like we're all working hard today......
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Going through some pics for the guide and this one didn't make the cut at first. Its funny how you can pick a fav and then come back months later and a throw away shot becomes the front runner.
10c*** - Hocus Pocus Arete - 7 bolts, chain anchor - Climb through a short funky off width between the boulder and arête to get started. Interesting climbing and great holds weave their way up the arête.
He fell just after the pic too.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
Great pic, Graham. I like the pine tree at the base.
Good stuff, dude. I hope run into you this year out there.
Climb on!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
|
Pretty gnarly, Graham.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
|
Good footage and didgeridoo'n! What a mess! Shuteye inroads will probably be littered with downed trees again this year.
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2011 - 03:47pm PT
|
Talked to a bud of mine who wintered in at Arnold Meadow (near Lower Chuiquito CG) - confirms lots of downed trees across the area. Mainly sapling pines but a fair amount of black oak limbs. Lower Grizzly got slammed particularly hard but even a respectable number of blow-downs on Mammoth Pool Road down to the FS gate.
And here we thought last winter knocked down everything that was weak!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
|
Ya, its been really crazy and most of the town is still without power and probably will be for a few days.
The snow pack was up to the roof peak of the bathroom on Beasore before this huge storm! By the end of this week its going to be an unbelievable amount of snow. Way more than last years El Nino so far.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2011 - 04:47pm PT
|
Rad.
More homobile pics.
I love snow.
Bring it on.
who needs climbing anyway...
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!
kBlam!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2011 - 04:48pm PT
|
ps- Tollhouse is the new Shuteye, have you heard?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
|
Tollhouse aint no Shuteye but it'll do in a pinch. ;-)
Pics from 12 days ago by thisjustin and Grahm...
|
|
karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2011 - 11:22pm PT
|
Slabtastic!
|
|
Captain...or Skully
climber
The Seas of Stone.
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2011 - 11:28pm PT
|
Gettin' some...That's the ticket.
|
|
Barbarian
Trad climber
The great white north, eh?
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 02:37pm PT
|
Bumping because this one of the best threads ever and all posts by Wow Really should be off the front page!
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2011 - 01:07pm PT
|
Bump. That's the infamous tollsar in the red helmet, the legend Kenny Rose on platinum plus and uncle tom Slater on ahhhhhhhh.......shit I don't know.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Went up on Wednesday and its the most snow I have ever seen!
The lump of snow behind Leo is the Beasore bathroom completely buried.
Melting snow forming runnels on the slopes just like on the rock.
Stumbled upon this new steep 30 foot boulder problem.
Click to see bigger
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
that boulder problem looks cool.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
I am bringing shoes next time! All that snow makes for a nice bouldering pad.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Wow! Its snowing in Oakhurst again. So much for April showers.
Forecast is for around a foot up higher.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Wow is right! Powder wowder!
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Grahm I heard you had an epic snomo adventure. Glad you're alright. Nice photos but I already sent that boulder.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Nice photos but I already sent that boulder.
Ah, but did you do the snowline sit start?
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Sure did Nate, with my eyes closed and two chicks holding onto my arms as I powered up that bitch.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Cool, never heard of a boulder problem with 3 people (2 in tow) on the FA.
G - do tell about the snomo epic.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Stick jammed in the throttle, threw me off and then went full speed over a jump and straight into a tree. Getting it back out was REAL fun. Glad I have ins.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
WHOOOOP!
Get SOME!!!!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
Bummer, Graham...cool you have insurance though!~
|
|
lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
Insurance!!!!!!!!!!! When I center punched a tree in my mother in law's ORV I had to PAY. Glad you're OK. I'll have to remember the "stick in throttle" excuse next time.
Best,
lars
|
|
Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
|
|
whoa!
in the movies the snow mobile would have blown up after hitting the tree.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
My buddy was standing about 60 feet away when it crashed into the tree. He said it was going super fast, the engine was screaming and the crashing sound of it going into the tree had him paralyzed not knowing what to do. He said it was one of the craziest things he has ever seen and he thought it was going to blow up.
I have a $500 deductible and beyond that its covered. I am just glad no one was hurt and it didn't hit someone else's ride.
The snow melted off yesterday here in Oakhurst but look what is already in the backyard this morning, and its still snowing!
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
Glad you are okay Grahm. Sorry, but no sympathy for the noise pollution machine. Please use the insurance money to get some skis, boots, maybe trekking poles, and a book about wilderness basics.
"Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees." (Muir paraphrase)
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Yup, I agree thats fun too. But, snomoing is in my blood now and its just as fun as climbing for me. To each his own.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2011 - 11:10pm PT
|
http://www.climbing.com/travel/wake-up_call/index.html
the Shuteye article from Climbing.
For my friends who missed it.
Thanks Louie for the link, I had no idea they even did this.
Kinda cool but no wonder people don't buy the mag... you can just get it online for free!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2011 - 11:36pm PT
|
(to me)
> sounds like our hideaway has already been blown and you're inviting friends out there, kind of a bummer> > > oh well that's how it goes
All I can do is laugh.
You left out The Way We Roll on the Runnel Vision Wall
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Apr 16, 2011 - 10:04am PT
|
How do you hijack a wall?
Please help
Please
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Apr 16, 2011 - 11:09am PT
|
Your hideaway? Hadn't seen you up there until last year. The word that's out got you up there so it's funny hearing you say it's your hideout. I'm with you that it sucks to see more people up there, but shuteye deserves all the attention it gets.
Bitter sweet.
Edit: Tork are you quoting someone or is that how you feel? I get it Tom must of said that to you. You guys crack me up. It's climbing not drama.
|
|
August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
|
|
|
Apr 16, 2011 - 08:16pm PT
|
So I live in Sacramento and I am trying to explore new areas (and break my habbit of never driving further south than Yosemite valley). Last summer I checked out Shuteye using the new Norcal road trip guide (great job!). I'm thinking of driving south in the next week or two. The Shaver Lake/Tollhouse area looks to be one candidate.
I've been slowed by injury, but would be looking to climb up to 5.9 multi-pitch, up to well protected mid 5.10 red points cragging, and up to 5.11- topropes whether it is crack/face/slab.
I don't mind hiking/exploring but wouldn't be in shape for anything over about thirty minutes. In addition to the Slater guide, I have the old Southern Yosemite Spencer guide. Are there better guides available? Anyone have suggestions for routes or other climbs in the area (having not climbed any of the low elevation stuff, I'm not set on any given spot or even the Shaver Lake area)? Or any other info for a newbie to the area? Is this year's late snow going to be an issue?
Cheers.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Apr 16, 2011 - 08:30pm PT
|
Right about the quote and right about the drama.
Kinda hard to ignore the bs hate/psycho mail.
I really just want to climb.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2011 - 11:30am PT
|
Hey August, Grahm Doe has a Shuteye guidebook coming out (someday right Grahm?). We threw a tree at his snowmobile to try and speed up the process but it didn't work. It's fixed already...
The snow will be too heavy for Shuteye probably until June.
Shaver area... Tollhouse Rock is a ton of fun. There is stuff in the Nor Cal guide, and for Dogma Dome as well. A complete comprehensive guidebook for Tollhouse will be out in about 3 more months. But there is plenty of info out there. Hope that helps!
|
|
August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
|
Yea, I wasn't looking to go to Shuteye, just wanted to check out something at a lower elevation (and my partner didn't want to go the valley and do the same old get-in-shape moderates we have been doing for so long).
Cool that a new guide book is coming out soon (although I've learned to generally take that with a grain of salt). The Norcal guide contains plenty to get me started at Tollhouse and the "Tollhouse this weekend" thread that popped up has me looking forward to checking out the area.
I saw the pics of the snow mobile. Having seen the previous pics of him catching air, can't say the pic of the snowmobile being dragged away is that much of a shock (glad it won't interfere with progress on the next guide release ;-).
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
|
random awesomeness.....
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2011 - 03:25pm PT
|
Jeff,
Hope you had a good weekend - I was home and sick - ug.
Elbow is progressing :)
kev
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2011 - 04:38pm PT
|
glad to hear you're on the mend Kev.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
|
Sup kev. Hope you're doing swell. Mend up!
@ Jeff -
How do you hijack a wall?
I'll send you a mailing address soon. Thinking the best source comes IESS- FYA.com. Its a husband/wife gig.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
|
Im 6 weeks or so post surgery and doing well. PT is going well and I hope to be climbing in 6 weeks - albeit 5.easy but still.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2011 - 05:34pm PT
|
PT is going well and I hope to be climbing in 6 weeks - albeit 5.easy but still.
I might be able ta drag ya laddie! I need more leads anyhow. HEAL!!!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2011 - 05:49pm PT
|
cool - another member to join the 5.easy club!
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2011 - 01:02am PT
|
cool - another member to join the 5.easy club!
Speak fer yourself! Anyone wanna join the "5.10+-Scared-Out-Yo-Mind-And-Look-Like-An-Absolute-Foo!" club?
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2011 - 01:23am PT
|
Haha, I'm a well established member of that club ;)
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2011 - 11:52am PT
|
Great to hear your recovering Kev! A buddy of mine has also been dealing with health related stuff. When we talk about climbing and coming off the couch he says he'll be climbing out from under the couch. ;-)
Leos snow report:
"April 1 snow survey shows we are at 175%; above the '98 winter by 2 points. '95 was 209%.
The record year '69 was 267%
Lots of good ridin' still left...."
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2011 - 01:21pm PT
|
Thanks Grahm! under the couch - yeah that might be more like it, but if it's without pain then it'll be awesome.
I picked a good time to due it give the weather this year. Glad you're getting out on the snowmobiles - just don't wreck anymore, okay?
kev
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2011 - 01:48pm PT
|
to me)
> sounds like our hideaway has already been blown and you're inviting friends out there, kind of a bummer> > > oh well that's how it goes
All I can do is laugh.
You left out The Way We Roll on the Runnel Vision Wall
Jeff -
Would love to hear the FULL story on this. God knows how I love to stir the Shuteye hornets nest. Makes for great "historical" info for future guidebook revisions.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
|
Don't forget every story has two sides. And possibly the FULL story will have a third side that comes in to play, when it is revealed that the disputed crag was climbed 15 years prior. :)
And Justin has got a great story about stirring a hornets nest!
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2011 - 06:30pm PT
|
'Course, I asked JEFF.....not any other side. Thanks for shedding the light though Nater.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2011 - 08:52pm PT
|
Here is a story for you,
Once upon a time a finger was poised over a delete key but wavered...
It all began with an unimaginable flash into existence. Countless galaxies and solar systems were flung into the vastness and formed over eons. Suns, planets and the like took shape. One planet with just the right cocktail to create life crushed sand into rock. The rocks were thrust up and laid bare by monstrous tectonic forces. Life evolved in complex ways to create humans.
Some of these humans clinging to their ancestral ways choose to cling to the rocks and call it sport. They enjoyed the beauty of the rocks but as humans will do they competed for the rocks yet shared them, they fought one another but also loved, they destroyed and preserved nature at the same time. Some shared their thoughts on internet forums. They helped to build one another up but also bickered and tore one another down. They lied and told truths. Some lurked in the background hoping to read something entertaining.
In the blink of a cosmic eye they were all gone. Time moved on and the rocks were eroded back to sand while new ones were exposed. The sun slowly died devouring the planet and its solar system. It was reborn again as a small black hole. The universe continued to forever expand into a vast and unknowable existence.
Pondering the beauty and absurdity of it all... the finger instead clicked “post this reply“.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2011 - 09:03pm PT
|
Sorry Grahm, my delete key no longer works... I wore it out.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2011 - 09:40pm PT
|
Jeff, you wore out your delete key? Yeah right - you spend so much time typing ;)
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2011 - 09:43pm PT
|
Hey Kev, don't believe a word John says.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2011 - 09:52pm PT
|
Yeah you've got to watch out for sketchy peeps like him and josh....
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2011 - 12:54pm PT
|
All this talk about universes, space dust, delete keys and "I love me" climbing rag articles is causing the air to buzz with the noise of a 1000 didgeridoos.....
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
|
mooch, ya had to push my buttons.
Is that a wolf in sheep's clothing or a sheep in wolf's clothing?
I'm fine with the pooch at the crag... unless he starts sending me hate mail.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2011 - 02:40pm PT
|
Sheep in wolf's drag...
You know you love your button pushed....
But which one: the delete button or the "other" one.
Love ya Tork!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2011 - 12:20am PT
|
Yeah, well, how about that weather.
Anyone been making forays into So Yo at all lately?
Grahm glad you were ok after that wreck. Sorry to hear about that one.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2011 - 12:53am PT
|
I'm sure the weather will stabilize by end of the month. C'mon Sun......BAKE that snow pack!!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2011 - 12:11am PT
|
Thanks Sue!
It was a fluke thing to crash that bad. But my buddies and I get stuck, mini crash or flop our snowmobiles all the time. Its kinda like climbing for me. If I don't fall every once in a while I am not pushing the limits and thats where I learn how to improve.
As for the weather report, Leo and I went snomowing yesterday afternoon up at Shuteye and got 3 inches of fresh snow dumped on us before we left. Should be about a foot of fresh by Monday I would guess. Oakhurst has been pretty dry but the ridge seems to catch the precipitation. Snow level is around 5,500ft I would guess. Still about 10 to 12 feet of base at the top of Beasore. Sorry...
PS I'll email you about some guide book stuff.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
Thought I'd give the SOYO thread a bump, its May and there hasn't been a post yet.
May....which means its almost June....which means the season of alpine starts, golden stone so tasty you can eat it and and long, breezy days under the azure blue sky of Southern Yosemite are just around the corner. I look forward to meeting some of you from this thread this summer. I pretty much just climb around The Balls and Lost Eagle but hope to get out to Big Sleep and some of the other areas as soon as the snow drifts get just skinny enough to get a run at. On my wish list are Captain Obvious on Grey, Sven and Yorgie's on The Golden Toad and The Paraclete on Chiquito.
I got no shots of SoYo to share right now...but Adam and I made it over to the Alabama Hills last weekend. Here's a photo or two to keep the good photo history of this thread alive... see yall out there soon. The snows a meltin!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Aye aye, Micro.
Here is to many long days on warm rock, and descending into the cool shadows of nightfall.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
John and Susu -
Soooooo, what fine things do you have to report?
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Mooch a local like yourself should know the report. Like Nate said I can show you some wasp nests if you still want to stir them.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Hi all! Mooch, sent you a pm.
Snow pack does appear it could melt much faster than last year!
Whoop!
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
all, i'm trying to work plans out to be out there for memorial day weekend. Hopefully we can do some climbing. Climbing is certainly a more productive activity than reading this thread and all the back and forth about who's a local and who's not, who's a trad climber and who's not, who invites people out blah blah blah blah blah. is anyone else tired of this sh#t? lets go climb. Say something positive that brings people together so we can go out and climb and have a good time or don't say anything at all. Sometimes (some peoples) f*#king immature 15 year old judgmental bullshit attitudes make me wish i had never started this thread.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
I'm down to climb Matt, hope all roads are open before then.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Matt is right, sorry for getting sucked into the undertow. Here is some preseason soyo porn.
Please add, more pictures of soyo climbing.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
Oooo Oooo ooooo...Oh God....OOOO..................ahhhhhhhhhh!!
Thanks Just In :)
|
|
scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2011 - 03:04pm PT
|
News Flash to Crazy Horse
You didn't start this thread. You started the one that you already deleted.
If you can't handle the gossip, just don't read it.
Grow up.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Gerry let's go climbing. I have plans this weekend but next one is clear.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
Killer shots Jeremy
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Damn, Jeremy posting pictures? Fuk Yeah bro, love that squarenail solo shot.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
O man! Scuffy B! Hope to see you out there this year! Also greatly appreciate the several times we've spent with Crazy Horse and looking forward to seeing you too! Lots of great folks on this thread who we hope to see out there this year, some who have become dear friends! & Thanks Justin for some kind words I've seen lately on other threads! Inspite of ourselves, here's a big fat Cheers all around & to the start of the season!
Nice shots Jeremy, esp. the Talon!
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Susu, have you been towards Grey and if so did you see our tracks?
Look forward to seeing you guys in the soyo.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Remember this one, Tiki?
Brush = nature's crash pad. Affordable too.
Nice run of photos Ross bros and Susu!
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
Nice Shot Kevin. Come up and visit the area.....took McGee, Vargas and Chambers up to LE once....then you can show how to get to Donut Nation;)
I do remember that one...Nate....fun.....I think the following season you went digital right? Hence the grainy vintage look.
Ahhh can't wait to get on Permission Granted too........
Attentive Belay ;D
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Cool photos! Doughnutnation... very cool... always wondered what the ridge looks like from the east side since we always enjoy the view of the east side from Shuteye.
This just in, that photo looks like it was taken in front of Minerva, was it? As of last weekend, those domes looked socked in by snow and the faces all wet, so we didn't even try.
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
TJI said he'd show me around even though I'm not local, but he'd have to get me drunk to the point that I'd never be able to find the boulders again.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
Ha Ha...Nah.....Kevin, we used to bring in the newcomers around hunting season while dressed up like Rudolph the Reindeer. If they made the gauntlet...they were in the Club!!
Besides Barry was no local ;)
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Susu, yes the picture was taken around Minerva. Unfortunately we got snowed on so no climbing but it was good to be up there. Glad you guys got to get up there as well.
Ludwig that's funny. Jeremy is on your side of the river now so maybe you can show him donut.
|
|
Banquo
Trad climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
This morning I feel compelled to post a favorite SOYO picture. Some really excellent people. I showed this to my kid and asked "where's Waldo?" Kid sez "Dad, it's like Waldo isn't even trying anymore."
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Dan,
Yep, that Waldo guy is usually pretty successful at hiding out in quiet SoYo, but maybe he's better off in a crowd.
In a flash mob a few years back:
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Dan, that was a great weekend! We would love to hear more of your travel tales sometime! Great comment by the 'kid' btw!
Enjoying your shots too Justin and er, Waldo!
Added later: climbing shot from last weekend:
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
May 19, 2011 - 04:11am PT
|
How do we go from a couple weeks of this:
To last weekend this:
So much for the melt being on!
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
May 19, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
|
It's bullsh#t, I think Grahm sacraficed a goat or something. Nice Chiquito shots.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
May 19, 2011 - 01:05pm PT
|
I sacrificed a goat and 13 virgins. No one else can climb at Grey until my doctor releases me and my elbow on june 7th.
I tried to sell my soul but the devil said it was to tainted...
kev
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
May 20, 2011 - 06:28pm PT
|
Bump
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
May 20, 2011 - 08:16pm PT
|
When life gives you snow... make snow balls.
Just In how did you teach her that?
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
May 21, 2011 - 12:59am PT
|
GRahm, purdy last shot. Yep, why let a little snow get in the way of having fun ;)
|
|
Banquo
Trad climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
|
May 31, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
|
Roads open yet?
I think in 2010 I didn't get in on Beasore Road until 6-24
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
May 31, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
|
Minarets is open to just past Jackass a short ways. Can't take Grizzly all the way to Beasore yet either, only roughly half way there. Still, been able to get some climbing in recent weekends there.
|
|
dfinnecy
Social climber
'stralia
|
|
cross posting just in case:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1518720/Im-At-Bass-Lake-Want-to-Climb-11-06-03-05
I'm on a trip from Aus with the family and we've come to stay a few days at Bass Lake. I have secured some leave time from the kids to practice dirty habits.
So if anyone needs or wants an out-of-towner parner to some of the southern Yosemite crags or in the valley for a half day tomorrow 06/03, Sat or Sun send me a PM with contact details or answer here.
All my rack is back home, but I have my harness, shoes and chalk bag.
In my current family-enhanced shape I can lead 5.9, I'll be happy to try and follow whatever. I'm no hardman but I have experience and I'll give a safe catch.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
I'm going outta town and it's supposed to rain/snow, I emailed a couple people that might be willing to battle the elements with you. Good luck, hope you get to climb.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Did this last storm drop any snow around the 8,000' ele?
It was warm on the coast. I was hoping that maybe the rain would speed up the melt, but that's probably wishful thinking.
bump for Soyo
|
|
dfinnecy
Social climber
'stralia
|
|
I drove up to Glacier Point today and it didnt look like anything fresh had been dropped.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
That shipic is shisick.
|
|
Banquo
Trad climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
SoYo teaser - 5/21/2011
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
Wawona dome?
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
Mucci,
Didn't you throw up after that pitch?
kev
EDIT: Or was that me?
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
Mucci, wake up and check the taco brah!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Did someone call?
The site of the alleged retching
I never got copies from that day?
Chilly a bit higher
Jerry going right side in
Nick on the bolted poofter arete to the left
Still waiting for a 2nd
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
Jeff,
I see to doc tomorrow, so hopefully I'll see everyone soon!
kev
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Good luck with the doc Kev and I do hope to see you soon.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2011 - 12:28pm PT
|
Nice photos, Jeff, got some more? I wawona go to Wawona Dome soon! When's it going to get too hot there?
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2011 - 06:33pm PT
|
Send me in exile to Exile!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2011 - 12:07am PT
|
Grahm, we gotta go see what this Exile dome is all about...
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 11:09pm PT
|
Sue, here is a repost of Flanders on Fatty Can't Fit
It will be on the hot side up there now. Mornings til about 1:00 can be nice.
Red Eagle last weekend
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 11:15pm PT
|
Red has some fun stuff on it! I did a route there last year.
Nice!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 - 01:43am PT
|
Great shot of Mony on Red! Looks like a classic line! Got a name? How was access with all that snow?
Well, maybe we can try for Wawona this fall.
|
|
sneville
climber
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 - 02:03am PT
|
Jeff,
Sweet pic of red dihedral. How was the alpine approach? Were you doing some recon on the right wall. What else did you climb? Did you get on wham bam thankyou jam?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 - 09:32am PT
|
We did the Minerva approach, snow free, then over the gap down to the base of the dihedral. Lots of snow at the base of both formations but easy enough to kick steps. Climbed the first 2 pitches of the Red Dihedral then up the vertical red face with great pro to a knob belay. Finished just right of Wham Bam. Rapped Minerva. Poor judgement on the last pull of the rope and it ended up in the drink...felt 20 pounds heavier. At that point it was beer:30. Climbing the slabby side of Chiquito the next day was perfect for drying out our wet line. Sean, tell me about that line of new bolts below Top Gun.
|
|
Banquo
Trad climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 - 10:31am PT
|
The photo on the previous page is not Wawona. On May 29, we hiked in to explore a new wall.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 - 11:28am PT
|
Tork, the snow at the base is a great element to that pic, oh yea and that golden stone!
I like how you decided to dry your rope out too, lol. New bolts on top gun or next to it?
I think it's finally summer now, the mosquitos are barely starting to come out, and the rivers are pissed. Good to see that stone, gracias.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 - 02:55pm PT
|
Banquo - it looks a lot like a climb on Wawona. Makes me wonder where the climb in the photo is!
This just in - Can you tell us if you know anything about that route to the left of Top Gun but not as far left as Elegant? It's very good.
Also, is the road clear to Big Sleep?
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
|
Susu, I haven't been there since last year so I'm not sure of the new route. As of last weekend you can get to haskell meadow, there's a big drift that hopefully melts soon and then it should be completely open to vehicles. Maybe two weeks, at the most.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 - 04:45pm PT
|
Good tease Banquo. Looks like you beat me to something. :)
|
|
sneville
climber
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 - 05:14pm PT
|
Jeff,
Nice line I was looking at doing that this year but you beat me to it. Now we are even. How much snow is at the base of minerva? Does it look like this?
The route to the left of top gun is called ThunderBelly in honor of mucci. Nine bolts all hand drilled on lead by john and myself. John got the FFA and we think solid 11a slab crux. Belay at the bolts for the first pitch of top gun.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
|
Cool pics Sean. When I TR'd the crux of that thin slab thing a handful of years ago, it felt like hard .10, but I like the sound of .11a (not that I'm chasing numbers) :)
I look forward to leading it someday. Good luck on the gnarly overlap project.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 - 06:56pm PT
|
Nate, Thunder Belly would probably have been scarey to TR without directionals which couldn't have existed when you TR'd in the vicinity, so maybe you TR'd something more directly under the TG anchor? Also, is there an unwritten rule to not downgrade a climb until led? ;) Ahh, just play'n.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 - 07:21pm PT
|
Hey, I struggled, so no downgrade intended. I barely squeaked thru. And things feel easier on TR, no? :) Can't recall if a nut was placed in the crack for a directional, but I recall the crux section (right around the black knob, for which you feel very grateful) being somewhat below the anchor. It's a narrow section of rock there, so not many other paths to take. You guys definitely followed the path of least resistance. 'Course, I never veered left into the golden terrain beyond the crux, which would have been weird on TR when there's the Top Gun variation crack to follow. And I make no claims to being the first to TR that section. Fun stuff and great work!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 - 09:33pm PT
|
Nice job Sean and John. Wish I had known you guys sent your line. I stayed off even though I was itching to give it a go. Also looked at that roof crack... looks doable but hard and hard on the rope if you come out of there. Looks like it goes way wide just past the roof.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 - 10:03pm PT
|
Don't tell Mony I posted this, she will kill me!
First belay
The final move of vertical plates and knobs before the easy knobs to the anchor.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jun 16, 2011 - 02:40am PT
|
Nice shots of the rock climbs and Mony! The big grins and t-shirt weather despite the snowpack speaks volumes. & Tx for the info Justin!
|
|
sneville
climber
|
|
|
Jun 16, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
|
Nate,
You are right the black knob area is the crux. Getting onto and off of it involves steep smearing and cranking on nothing. Fun route. Jeff that roof is going to be scary. It will involve some inverted move to get into the slot (which felt very awkward and I was afraid my foot would get stuck)and then you have to keep on moving through the arch with big exposure. Love all the pictures, keep them coming.
Sean
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2011 - 05:41pm PT
|
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2011 - 06:23pm PT
|
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2011 - 07:15pm PT
|
buahahahaha!
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
|
Jun 20, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
|
As of this past Sunday afternoon, the locals from Bass Lake have plowed Beasore AND Grizzly Roads!!
Yea to Steve A!
Still a bunch of deep berms and debris along the roadsides - but you can traverse at will. Side roads - especially those around CS Summit and the Pine Flats area of Grizzly are still more no than go. No plans to plow these since the FS prefers to wait for natural melting to take care of those.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
|
Thanks to the local boys! Speaking of local boys, where'd you end up this weekend, Justin? RC?
Snippettes from the weekend....
Missed ya Tork and mucci!!
Munge Light Lime
Nate D taking a break from the Prana catalog ('Wing Feather', Gray Eagle)
The Flying Dutchman!......the one and only Tiki-ger
Shine on you crazy diamond!
Fun stuff up near Minerva....'Dutchman's Delight'
Pow-wow: Nate D, Munge, John, susu, tiki-ger
Susu sampling the Brutus recipe for Gatoritas.....Ieeyyeeyyiiii, Poppy!!
"Not sure if there was one or two red tags...."
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
|
Two, yeah, definitely two, no wait, maybe one, hrm yes yes yes, definitely two.
Kev, word on the street is you have to get healed up so you can finish a certain project. I owe you a belay homebake. When do you want to head up?
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
|
Good times!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2011 - 06:23pm PT
|
Looks like we missed out on a great time and missed meeting some folks I need to meet(Mooch, Nate, Munge, and Tiki). Next Sun and Mon look good.
Had a great weekend going over the pass. Was fun skiing Hoffman in June. Also took Flanders climbing at Clark Canyon.
Jeff
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2011 - 06:44pm PT
|
Tork, there is some talk of a weekend trip. Not sure if my wrist will permit actual climbing, but I'm thinking of going drinking anyways.
Sun and Monday is a go for you, but not Sat and Sun?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2011 - 07:01pm PT
|
Saterdays off from work are rare but have been known to happen.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2011 - 07:06pm PT
|
Cool, Munge! Jeff, we'll hope to see you by Saturday night with any luck!
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2011 - 07:48pm PT
|
Hey Tork, How was skiing Mt. Hoffman? Did yall catch some corn? I been thinking about headin' up there lately. It would be nice to combine a trip like that with a little high country craggin too.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2011 - 07:57pm PT
|
Hey Jer, by the way, that day we met up at Lost Eagle a couple seasons back, you mentioned you liked one of my photos from our time in Nepal. Was this the one? You said you wanted a copy. If you e-mail me, I'll send you a high res copy. Just let me know. Or if we hook up climbing I'll bring it on a flash drive or something. You heading up anytime soon?
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2011 - 08:25pm PT
|
That's da one Micro.....love it!!
Might go again real soon ;)
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2011 - 09:01pm PT
|
Nice photos Dave and Munge. I was up there Friday and Saturday enjoying the South side of the ridge. Too bad I missed you guys, that campground looks like good times. Glad Gerry and Nate made it though.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2011 - 11:21pm PT
|
Micro, Hoffman was fun. Good conditions but not great. There was coverage top to bottom but it is going fast and the sun cups are growing.
Jeff
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2011 - 11:23pm PT
|
Lets see some more photos from last weekend folks.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Jun 22, 2011 - 01:37am PT
|
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jun 22, 2011 - 11:25am PT
|
As it was mentioned, I won't be able to make it till Sept (ROWCC trip to LE), but there is a small chance I can make it out there late July with my daughter. Wish I could make it next weekend.....JEALOUS!!
BTW, props to John on the "you know what". Sharp!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jun 22, 2011 - 06:33pm PT
|
Not a whole lot more photos, Jeff... See if I can add one or two to this post though later. Really nice shots by Micronut, plus the ones of the Melting Wall and Munge's sunset! Nate D. might be holding out on a sunset shot?
Great group of folks out there last weekend! Too bad some others couldn't make it, Jeff, Mony, Mucci, Sean, and more. Hope you get out there again soon, Nate, Jer and Mooch, & Thanks Mooch!! Too, the gatoritas are a great traditional drink for the Eyeyieyie!
Add:
Photos as mentioned
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jun 22, 2011 - 08:35pm PT
|
Yes, fine crew indeed, and glad I wasn't the only one to snap a pic of the purple sky on my way out - good one Munge. I'll see if I can get to uploading a few pics to share tonight.
Sorry it wasn't in the cards for Ger and I to meet up this time Justin. One day went way too fast for me, but I'll savor it for quite some time.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Jun 22, 2011 - 08:51pm PT
|
I definitely plan on making it into those parts this summer/fall. Hopefully multiple trips.
The place is perfect, in just about every regard.
EDIT: Cool meeting Nate at the Fleet Week last year...of all places! A coincidental meeting at that!!!!
Weird.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 22, 2011 - 10:55pm PT
|
Who's going this weekend? I should be able to make it out there Sat night and climb Sun and Mon, will need a partner. Can anybody else do Mon.
Jeff
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Jun 22, 2011 - 11:54pm PT
|
Slack, Ping.
Sunday.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2011 - 01:19am PT
|
I'm out. fek
wrist is still wonky. too far to not climb, and be back by early Sunday.
looking like last weekend in July to get out. Owl be back tho!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2011 - 02:02am PT
|
Owl be back tho!
Hey now, I tried to help out on one of those rigs. We had a gear misfunction. I thought I was kinda privy to one of those routes too. An older 'Ishun' route we once attempted.
But it's kev's call who he takes up it. His line.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2011 - 09:38am PT
|
Hey Mucci, I like the ring to that. Lets see what the temps are like...hot yesterday but spose to cool down a bit.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2011 - 10:41am PT
|
It may have to be an "Afternooner"
|
|
Banquo
Trad climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2011 - 11:45am PT
|
I'm thinking of going up this weekend with my son. Where are people headed?
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
|
Slack ping is not ok - the next bolt is mine and according to the doc no drilling until sept...
I'll let everyone know later today if I'm going to make it up this weekend...I'm gonna try though...I'm kinda crazy busy since I'm supposed to fly off to mexico next week.
kev
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2011 - 04:09pm PT
|
Banquo - As of last weekend, there was way too much snow at the start of the forest service road to LE to begin to drive down it. Have doubts how accessible it will be only a week later, but look forward to hearing about it if you head that way.
We are not sure where to go yet this weekend but have heard of folks heading to Big Sleep and the Gray Eagle area.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2011 - 06:27pm PT
|
Nice pics all!
Last weekend Big Sleep had a big snow drift blocking the road just before the last turn in. There is also a huge tree down. It's doable but the hike is longer. Big Sleep approach trail still had a long snowdrift section through the trees too. It has been really warm so it will be interesting to see how quick this stuff is melting. I am sharpening my chainsaw and plan on clearing the tree sometime this weekend.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2011 - 08:54pm PT
|
Thanks for the word Grahm, and clearing the way! Are you holding out on recent climbing photos?
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2011 - 02:39pm PT
|
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2011 - 04:07pm PT
|
Awesome Nate! Here are a few from yesterday. After work Jeremy and I went up to Chilkoot to do some laps at the toprope area. In places the snowdrifts are still 4 feet deep. High Eagle area is going to be a while.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2011 - 07:16pm PT
|
awww, Baby Gatorita.....don't cry! Jessica will "tuck" you in.
Have fun this weekend Shuteye Gang!! :)
|
|
sneville
climber
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2011 - 08:32pm PT
|
Kev,
If you want to protect your elbow you can use my bosch to drill that bolt. Leaving soon for the ridge.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
|
Yeah, I don't know why you guys don't use more power-drills up there, because you can.
I understand the hand-drilling ethic thing, but c'mon!!!! Lotsa cool routes were put up with batteries. And elbows were spared....
Kev! borrow the frakin' drill. Drill, baby, drill!!!!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 29, 2011 - 11:21am PT
|
Great weekend out there all! Great climbing with you Sean.
Slack Ping topo will be out soon.
|
|
Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
|
|
|
Jun 29, 2011 - 12:38pm PT
|
Death of the Repubs Bump
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 29, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
|
Wade, when ya coming out to Shuteye?
Also I still owe you a bolt n hanger from Parkline. Problem is they are all mixed with the rest I've pulled.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 29, 2011 - 02:07pm PT
|
Grahm did you make it out over the weekend? Road conditions?
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jun 29, 2011 - 03:03pm PT
|
Jeff.....pray tell the gouge on the above pic?
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jun 29, 2011 - 03:11pm PT
|
I'm gonna guess Runnel Vision, something 'round there. But there are a lot of little walls like that out there still.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 29, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
|
Not Runnel Vision but it is on the Runnel Vision wall. It is right of Runnel Vision and 2 routes left of The Way We Roll.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2011 - 03:08pm PT
|
HEAVEN Tork!! Maybe late July with my daughter (don't tell he we're going climbing....or Mrs. Mooch for that matter. HA!)
Bringing up Pat Brennan and crew in late September for the tour out to the Eagles and LE. Hoping the regular Ridge crew will come out in force and be stewards when they come. Want to share wwith them what they've been missing since they won't have bumpers to belay from.....
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2011 - 06:31pm PT
|
Keep us posted mooch, maybe we can meet up out there.
|
|
cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
|
|
|
Jun 30, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
|
Yeah, I don't know why you guys don't use more power-drills up there, because you can.
C'mon Blue, don't temp him to into joining the dark side. Yes, you can use a power drill. But, you can also rap bolt, top rope preview, etc. Kinda removes a bit of challenge from the endeavor and lessens the climb IMHO. I suppose it's more about personal choice than ethics, anyway.
Besides he paid a lot of $$ for that new elbow, he might as well get a chance to use it!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Hey Bob, you heading to So Yo this weekend?
Jeff?
Wonder how bad the snow is now at high eagle..
Mooch, keep us posted too if you get out there in July. Be nice to get another group together.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
C'mon Blue, don't temp him to into joining the dark side. Yes, you can use a power drill. But, you can also rap bolt, top rope preview, etc. Kinda removes a bit of challenge from the endeavor and lessens the climb IMHO. I suppose it's more about personal choice than ethics, anyway.
Besides he paid a lot of $$ for that new elbow, he might as well get a chance to use it!
Valid point!
Hope to climb with you guys again.
|
|
cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
|
|
Hi Su,
Yes, I'll be out there with the family. It will be lil' e's 2nd trip to the area. He's 1.7 years old so I'll be spending most of my time trying to keep him from self-darwinizing. Dan and some others are going too. We'll be up at Norris Creek, just past the Balls.
Where will you be and what is on the rock menu?
Blue- see you out there as well? We'll both be baby/kid sitting instead of climbing!!
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
Burn some elbows for me.
Have a good 4th everybody!
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
Is the road to Big Sleep open? Adam and I are looking to climb either in SO Yo or Sequoia, but we're tryin to leave in a few hours......whats open and good? Kinda long and moderate would be cool.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
Or chiquito perhaps?
|
|
fishtrap
Trad climber
Bass Lake, CA
|
|
You can for sure get to Chiquito Dome and I would be very surprised if you couldn't get all the way to Big Sleep by now. I just heard today that Beasore is open to Granite Creek so climbing in the Balls is an option also if you know that area.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
We made it up to Chiquito on Saturday and had a great morning out. I had never actually been up the road towards Mammoth Pool from North Fork. We always drive up and climb at The Balls, so the area was totally new for us. Here's a mini TR. Elapsed time from front door to front door. 12 hrs. Including a 4 hour "nap" at Soda Springs from 1:30 am to 4:30am.
Leaving Fresno at 11:30PM Friday night. Kids in bed....daddys headin' into the hills. We HAD to be back by 10:00am the next morning, so this would be a smash and dash mission. In and out. Up and down. Do not anger the wives young men, they are gracious but must not be pushed beyond reason.
Black Coffee and The Spencer Guide....what more does a fella need. Sleep? Bah!
We shoot through North Fork by 11:00....we're at Soda Springs by 1;15AM. Throwin sleepin bags on the pine needles....shooting stars overhead.......the Jetboil is set up with coffee by my pillow for the rude awakening of the i-phone alarm (set fro 4:30)....the smell of pines fills our nostrils and the wind sings us to sleep. It feels like a loooong way from Fresno.
We're racking by sunrise. Peets makes everything better.
5:30 am. Hopelessly lost in some drainage from Land of The Lost. I hate Spencer and his little creme colored guide. Thanks Nate D for the directions....they eventually got us to the rock. We dont find the trail until we're at the base of the dome.
6:05 I donate a pint of O neg to the voracious Chiquito Dome Skeeter Blood Bank.
Shep(Macronut) finds the Start of The Acolyte and grabs the rack in order to escape the bloodletting below as the sun spills over the trees and splashes onto Shuteye Ridge.
The route lives up to its fine reputation and the pitches drop away quickly.
The steep little bulge move on the start of pitch three is super fun and Shep skoolz it quickly.....I wonder if he minds that I'm always telling him to "hold it right there for a sec..." while I shoot buttshots on the i-phone.
We climb quickly and Shep heads straight right from the fourth pitch belay to a cool little crack....The Minarets peek over the ridge out to the East.
By this time, our BACK BY 10:00AM PROMISE is in dire straits. Its 7:50 and we still have to top out, find the way down and drive 1:50 minutes.
Hey Shep......"Whats the latest we can get home and stay married to our wives....not happily married...you know, just married?"
"Eleven..max....you're on belay...Now git up there Micronut!"
We're on top by 8:20.
Full on running down the hill by 8:45.
Swimming In the creek by 9:00.
Home by 11:00.
Denny's Grand Slam and free coffee refills with the wife and kids by 11:17.
All is well and right in the universe.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Enjoyed your TR Micronut ~ way to make it all happen... especially on such a hot weekend.
Bob, we were camped out near Gray and mostly hiked this weekend. Too bad we missed you guys. Hope you managed to get some climbing in after all.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
Good stuff, Micro!
|
|
crazymountaingoat
Big Wall climber
modesto, ca
|
|
found this beut' this weekend on the east toe of rock creek dome.
anyone know it. classic first pitch.
|
|
cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
|
|
Little buddy enjoyed his SoYo camping trip and somehow managed to not self-darwinize in the process.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
He's beautiful Bob! Great photo!
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
Family time in SOYO. Nice looking kid, Bob!
Also way to stay married, Micro, and make those of us stuck in the lowlands jealous.
Ease up on the graphic details of the flying death squad, though, OK? Almost tossed my ceviche tostada...
|
|
LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
|
|
sly post, susu.. hiking for you is probably reconoitering new stone!
sweet tr btw
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Hi Luckypink! You been getting out there or have plans to? Be nice to crosspaths sometime!
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2011 - 05:47pm PT
|
The Godars and tiki make it happen!
Hey susu.....here's a route name for one of the heinous OW's -
"The Gulag Of Shuteye"......Alexander would be proud. ;)
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2011 - 11:44pm PT
|
Gulag huh? Great possible names... but I'm thinking Wizard of Owz (edit: as in owee or ouch) or something. You gotta get out there again... I know I know, you had some gig with a rib! Actually, your weekend TR sounds great! Except for the camera falling into a void!
Great time with you Tiki-Ger! Must do again soon!
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jul 20, 2011 - 05:28pm PT
|
Cameras are notorious for sprouting legs on me. "Curtis" will be forever missed....he now resides somewhere on the Minaret Traverse. "Leslie" found a new home on the Long Twisting Rib but I have recently learned "he" plans to move to Tyndall's East Face. Keep ya posted on the birthing of "Kappy" (a gorgeous slim line Lumix).
Tiki -
You know my spray has gotten me into trouble before. But nothing here to aid Snidely Whiplash into doing dastardly do-wrongs....
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Jul 20, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
|
SPH yo
|
|
fishtrap
Trad climber
Bass Lake, CA
|
|
|
Jul 20, 2011 - 07:01pm PT
|
Made it up to Lost Eagle today for the first time. I've been swimming and fly fishing there several times but never bothered to walk up to the climbing area. Didn't have any topos or route info so just picked a few lines and started climbing. We did 3 routes on the steep super featured wall with lots of chickenheads in the 5.6-5.9 range. If anyone has any info that they would be willing to send my way I would appreciate knowing what we actually climbed.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Jul 20, 2011 - 07:10pm PT
|
Hey fishtrap.....hit me up as I have a topo.
We will be installing a permanent sign showing all routes there.
Pulling permits too for concession stands.
Nothing like doing 'Funnel Runnel' after a funnel cake ;)
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2011 - 03:31am PT
|
Ahhh Munge, wish we could go to the shindig. That sounds like a blast w/great peeps! Sorry to miss out this time.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2011 - 04:17pm PT
|
SPH....
Sadly
Passing On
Homey
Nothing like doing 'Burrito Bandito' after............well........
.......a burrito. FFfffrrrrrrrrTTT!!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 09:56am PT
|
Sorry Dave, what's almost as bad is that it seems nobody really cares????
Or hopefully they just prefer not to discuss it here. My last attempt at discussing this issue, I was just asked if I had a chip on my shoulder. Lame!
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 10:15am PT
|
It's obvious you guys want to discuss it so instead of acting like drama queens come out and say it. Who's chipping this time? There is no need to chip routes in this area or any area. I agree it is a horrible thing but handle it like adults, and quit hinting at it.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 10:22am PT
|
Wrong! I asked Dave not to post about it.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 10:26am PT
|
Then shut the f*#k up. You are drama, you brought it here so let's hear it.
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 10:53am PT
|
With publicity comes drama, I agree with TJI if you know (not just think you know)who's chipping by all means either have the balls to call em out or shut up. I wonder if the shut eye locals are hoping the new guide book comes soon. The best way to f*#k up a bitchin area like shut eye is to invite all of the bay and LA to come and play. Robbins and company knew that decades ago, but too late for shut eye now. Not ruined just slowly losing some of it's remote feel. To those who feel the need the need to endlessly promote there favorite areas, enjoy your fleeting fame, maybe a few bucks and I hope you never learn of my favorite areas.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 11:21am PT
|
Or hopefully they just prefer not to discuss it here Tork, that was it. For one, "Discuss" on the taco? Hah!
Besides, what's to discuss? It's not whether or not chipping is wrong.
It's only, will the accused admit it or explain for everyone how it's not true?
As for calling wide attention to an accusation like this on a public forum, well, that sucks for several reasons. Usually, all the bad press ends up reflecting poorly on all the climbers and the climbing in the area. And the biggest concern is what possible folks could be listening and rightfully wondering how to impose climbing restrictions. But now, for those same reasons, let's hear it out in the open, so the record gets set straight.
Also, Donutnational, you make a great point, except that trad climbs should be preserved especially in an area known for growing bolts.
Edit: No offense to Dave (Planet Earth) whose reaction is totally understandable!
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 11:24am PT
|
Thanks mooch I needed some hangers to place next to cracks that are kinda grainy.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 11:55am PT
|
Susu, I agree it's the negative press that really isn't needed and we've heard this tale too many times. If there's something new we all should know about it. In a way I've contributed to bringing it to the table, but I'm tired of reading about an area we all love, sounding like a schoolyard. If you can call them names you should at least be able to use their real names.
Donutnational eats bolts for breakfast.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 02:29pm PT
|
Judging by the email I just got from Jeff I can only assume they are talking about me. So here comes a sh** storm of controversy. I chipped a hold at the end of the year on a project route at Shuteye. Nothing I can say will probably help someone understand why I thought it was a good idea on this route. Especially on this forum. But, I can own up to it.
I will try to explain a little and then people can pick it apart, call me names and attack me. First off 99.9% of my routes have no chipping. I do usually clean and will even use a hammer to break hollow flakes so they won’t break on someone later. I will also comfortize holds if they have crystals that can be smoothed with a hammer. Every once in a very great while I come across a situation on a route where enhancing a hold (in my opinion) improves the climbing on the route. I realize this opinion is where I get into trouble with other climbers and their ethics. Many shake their head in disbelief. I guess you would have to try and climb it before and after to see.
In this instance an obvious water groove comes down a steep wall. The beginning 3o feet is fun plated climbing straight up to the water groove. Then the water groove slowly deepens as it ascends the wall. The first shallow portion of the water groove is where the crux section is, about 20 feet of small interspersed holds of easy 5.12 moves. Launching into this section was a single hard 5.13 or harder move. I enhanced one small knob by chipping out the top of it so it could be held. I tried to make it look and feel like the other knobs on the climb. I also wanted it to blend with the difficulty of the other moves and stand out as little possible. Way less rock was removed than is done to create a bolt hole or aid seam but it did alter the rock from its original state.
It also would have been possible to come in from the left on a different start, avoid that crux and continue up the climb. I thought the climbing going straight up was so fun and perfectly in line with the route that enhancing the little knob would make for a better climb than traversing across the wall to avoid it.
This action, in my opinion, was very minimal to the rock and made a much better climb. I know this raises all kinds of issues and tempers and I apologize for that. I prefer natural routes and almost all of my routes (well over 100) are natural in Shuteye. Every once in a great while I come across a situation where I think a route can be much better with a little tinkering. I know, this raises questions like, where does it stop, who are you to change the rock, and aren’t you making the climb worse not better, come into play. I don’t have all the answers. I have my own criteria and I am not going to try to convince people they should agree. But, I think very, very rarely that enhancing a hold can make a route climb better if it is done in a minimal way.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 03:12pm PT
|
Wow, not cool at all Grahm, thanks for being honest, but there is no reason for chipping and you earn your reputation. What route?
Grahm, you are a friend and this doesn't change that, but I'm defenitely disappointed.
There you go Jeff and Dave and "Dave", it's on the table. I'm glad I know what happened, but you guys need to learn about some real life ethics.
My last 2 cents on the subject
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 03:34pm PT
|
Wow, can’t believe you admitted it. Thank you for that but only for that.
I wondered if it is truly that you don’t get it, or just don’t give a shitt. Now I know.
Can’t believe I actually felt sorry for you when you showed some contrition after receiving some bad press for getting called out on this before on rockclimbing.com and/or the first part of this thread that got nuked.
For the record, this sort of modification is every bit characteristic of rampant development, and a lot of folks sure wish it would stop. It is completely unethical, and you don’t deserve to have so much territory at your literal disposal.
As Justin says, I’m disappointed… I defended you as a nice guy, bc I thought you were. We would have liked to have a beer with you if we ran across you at a crag at the end of the day. But now it will always turn into a discussion about this stuff, and it’ll never be easy.
This is a very damning thing you are doing, and even if you don’t get it or disagree, please stop it bc it runs a high risk of ruining things for the rest of us.
Also, it’s a slippery slope. People who would look up to you will be following your footsteps in the future. Five.12s are going to get watered down to 5.11s, 11 to 10s, and on down the line. Sucks!
“Whatever happened to the mindset that we prepare ourselves for challenges in a rock climb instead of making the rock climb submit, and bringing the route down to a level we can already handle?”
For what it’s worth, Jeff has already done the true FFA of the route in question without the chiseled hold, straight up.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 03:56pm PT
|
I'm beyond numb. Especially after we've visited this all before. So, you just can't shake what your mentor Louie taught you, huh. Why doesn't it sink in that people love Shuteye for what it is, not what it should be to the selfish. This ain't no Riverside Quarry!! Fun?? "Fun" could have been the option of coming in from the left. Face it.....you're out numbered by the voices of disapproval. Get a clue and be a steward of good climbing ethics. 99.9%.....huh? I think you meant that as the percentage of folks who are against you chipping.
....but you guys need to learn about some real life ethics.
explain.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 04:47pm PT
|
So sorry you guys feel I let you down. If I could go back in time and not do it, I would. It seemed like a good idea at the time. Its definitely not worth the controversy when there is so many amazing natural lines to climb.
|
|
Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
|
Wow, somebody not only screwed the pooch but gives us the details.
How could anybody conclude that Shuteye is a sport climbing area?
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2011 - 12:50am PT
|
Bummer. I'm just a wanker 5.9 alpine climber, I will never climb 5.12, but I love the area and hate to hear about this. Chipping just doesn't ever sound ok.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2011 - 02:02am PT
|
Chipping is not ok.
Cleaning loose rock is acceptable.
The difference isn't that big, but there is a difference without question.
Graham, appreciate the honesty. Can we get you on the public record that you will not comfortize, enhance or chip any new holds on public lands (national forest, national park, etc) going forward? I'm not talking about removing loose rock.
Maybe folks will never fully appreciate one's internal motives when it comes to questions of style and purpose, but when it comes to public lands, and our ethical behavior, we have to require you to stop chipping or enhancing as you've described it. Of this there can be no argument. Ordinarily there is much speculation and no first hand knowledge about these types of incidents when discussed in a public forum, but with admission and honesty comes the responsibility to discontinue the practice.
I've only climbed in the area a couple times, so feel free to tell me to punt off as not understanding the locality. But I think that when it comes to access, setting a bad precedent of chipping on national forest is not the direction climbers should go in, whatever your stylistic proclivities.
So I'll be clear, Graham can we get your commitment not to chip any new holds/ehancements on the record publicly?
Graham, feel free to ping me on PM. We've met and you struck me as a reasonable person. I'm happy to discuss in person the ramifications and why I'm on the record here.
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2011 - 10:14am PT
|
Maybe we should all chip in and buy the chipper a a pair of running shoes and he can join Mark Spencer the grid bolting guide book writer from the late 20th century. He'd be too busy training and logging his stats to climb any more that way.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2011 - 01:58pm PT
|
Susu,
For the record I have not done the first ascent. I was able to get past the altered hold without using it but fell higher. Wasn't trying to snag a first, just knew it was doable by a mediocre climber without chipping.
Micronut and Munge,
Yours are the kind of responses I was expecting.
Dave Lane is a troll and a shitehead but he is a good guy and his reaction is understandable.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2011 - 04:52pm PT
|
Just seeing all this...I haven't been out much lately but was at fresno dome this weekend then see all this sh#t on the tacostand..anyhow, I posted this on the other thread too...
Man this is a bummer. The biggest reason is that it has happened before it was discussed and Grahm said he wasn't going to do it anymore. It's a bummer when someone who seems a really decent dude lies to everyone and goes back to his chipping ways. Bummer Grahm - bogus...
So Grahm, is it ok if Josh, Jeff and I chip on our 10ish-11ish? project casue Josh and I can't climb 11's so well?
Just a bummer.
kev
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
|
Still looking for more of a response from Grahm.
So what happened how is this different than the last time?
WHY would/should/can we believe you when you say you wish you could take it back? I just don't get it...
Did you think peeps wouldn't find out, so since no one knew it was ok?
If so that's f-ing lame since you agreed not to. The few times I've met you you've struck me as a nice stand up guy, but now it appears that your words can't be trusted.
I just don't get it...
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jul 28, 2011 - 02:27am PT
|
I prefer a more private forum, and have spoken to Grahm already, numerous times voicing my disappointment. Chipping sucks. No matter who you are, it's wrong, always will be wrong. No justification or wiggle room. If a route doesn't go, then it doesn't go. Leave it be. Even if it never gets sent.
Sad week for Shuteye.
Just wanted to weigh in and make it public record.
I deffer to this essay...
http://mountaineers.org/nwmj/05/051_Ethics.html
Well worth your time. The authors note says a lot as well.
|
|
zeker
Trad climber
bishop
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2011 - 01:20am PT
|
Mr.Doe, bottom line is no matter what we all may agree or disagree on in climbing ethics, chipping/enhancing any rock is way out of line and just simply uncalled for. Your multiple offenses and hence multiple apologies, are silly and getting offensive at this point. Chipping, especially in So.Yo, which is so rich with climbing history and first ascent crews of friends having accomplished so much in significant efforts keeping to ethical FA behaviors over the years, from Royal Robbins and crew to present day crews, ALL EXCEPT YOU seem respectful Personally, myself, Casey Yorkunas, Dave Lane and others who worked for Southern Yosemite Mountain Guides in the past, spent years in the mid 90's toiling on ground up first ascents with hand drills in tow, in So.Yo, and no matter what we were capable of or not, we never dreamed of chipping routes to bring them down to our level. What's the point of that man? I think I can speak for all involved, at least in our FA's, we never dreamed anyone would chip in So.Yo. Stop making apologies and just cut the crap man!
Sincerely,
Zeke Federman - My real name
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2011 - 02:17am PT
|
Thanks for that perspective, Zeke.
With all the previous discussion around this regional issue years ago on rc.com and the now defunct SSCA message board, around campfires, etc., I'm at a complete loss for words.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2011 - 08:27pm PT
|
Regardless of what views I may have about the subject, you guys are absolutely right. The agreed upon ethics for Shuteye is NO enhancing of holds.
Since this was agreed to a few years ago no one has enhanced any holds to my knowledge. Except for last year, when I screwed up and enhanced a small knob on my project and aggressively cleaned one other route. I haven’t changed the rock on any of my other routes. I won’t be altering any other holds including those by aggressive cleaning, and I haven’t since those routes last year. I shouldn’t have messed with that knob and I am trying to work with those who are upset to resolve the issue. For reference, the amount of rock removed from the knob wouldn’t fill a pen cap. Doesn’t make it right, just mentioning the scale of what we are talking about. No one else was involved with working on the route with me.
Kev - I wouldn’t chip that route you’re talking about, unless you enjoy getting emails telling you to go to hell. Nice guys can make mistakes too and I am sorry for mine.
Zeke – Will do! And I have been enjoying fa’ing some ground up routes with friends too.
If anyone wants to email me privately about this subject you can click on my user name to send me a private message. It’s obvious from other emails I have received that a few are very angry. I can discuss this issue more directly with local individuals, but not if it’s angry rants that aren’t going to be constructive.
We can share points of view, our personal stories, ask questions and leave the conversation with mutual respect. Will everyone’s minds be changed? Maybe not, but an angry interchange only alienates people and causes them to hold on more tightly to their opinions. A respectful, open conversation leads to better results.
But again, when it comes to Shuteye, we are in agreement about the areas ethics and I screwed up. All I can do is mend fences with those who are willing, move forward in a positive way and keep all my routes 100% natural at Shuteye.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2011 - 02:35am PT
|
So what's new?
Weekend report?
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2011 - 11:08am PT
|
I am pretty sure that the agreed upon ethic of not chipping, enhacing etc extends even beyond the Shut Eye area. Keep it in the Quarry!
|
|
rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2011 - 11:16am PT
|
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2011 - 11:37am PT
|
Haha! Bearprints. Not like the Yosemite Park bears I guess.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
|
Rincon- Good to see the pass boulders getting some love and did you guys do any bouldering atop Queen's Throne?
Ludwig- You need to go check those boulders out, and it's Shuteye or as the Indians called it Goodeye.
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
|
Sorry I got the name wrong. I do need to check those boulders out, although I am pretty sure what you call warm ups I would call boulder problems.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2011 - 12:59pm PT
|
Just giving you a hard time. Warm ups eh, your problems from bitd still scare the sh#t out of me and we use pads these days.
|
|
guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2011 - 01:55pm PT
|
Rincon and I had a great time exploring the rocks.... lots of fresh potential climbing abounds. Its to bad that chipping has gone on around there.
Chipping is the same as stealing IMHO. You steal a great climb from all of US when you chip holds Mr. Doe.
You show your WEAK SELFISH PERSONALITY when you do that. What? Don't you know there are BETTER CLIMBERS than you are out there who can SEND your ROOTS on sight!
Think about that one for a while will ya. Think about it BEFORE YOU GRAB THAT CHISEL AND GO TO TOWN.
..... OK... I Can calm down now.......
looking forward to getting back up there ASAP...
Guy Keesee
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2011 - 02:01pm PT
|
Nice set of pics, rincon. TFPU!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2011 - 08:23pm PT
|
Love the simple captions.
Having fun, good deal.
Bears... oh man.
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
|
What's the best guidebook for these areas. I love looking at the pictures here, but I need something I can leave in the bathroom.
All the best plans are hatched there.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
|
Tom, it's this one;
http://www.amazon.com/Southern-Yosemite-Rock-Climbs-Spencer/dp/0962015806
But there is much more that is not in there. You have to pry topos from people on this thread. There are many.
Try talking to Mucci, Kev, Tork, Grahm, NateD, Slater, Mooch, Susu and others. I'm forgetting some names, but the regulars on this thread have details.
You will prolly have to contact them privately.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2011 - 11:02pm PT
|
OK not Shuteye but there were locals involved in the cover...
Brandon McLemore running it with Kenny Rose and Justin Ross at the belay.
And Nate D had some valuable input with the cover design that made it better.
Thanks ya'll... books coming soon. Dwight has them but he disappeared in his plane...
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2011 - 11:35pm PT
|
Thanks for the tips. I knew about the old Moser book, but I don't have it. $20 is good price. My wife works at a bookstore so I can't buy from Amazon. I'll have to find another source.
On the other hand, that shuteye ridge looks real good. I think that I would head there if I could.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2011 - 12:29am PT
|
That's right boys, get 'em while they last!!
TOPOS in all their original and glorious variety:
hand scrawled napkin topos
obsessively vectorized topos
fading pencil topos
colorful photo topos
artsy painted topos
skewed xerox topos
wood carved topos
3D holographic topos
backwards topos
dirt & blood stained topos
drawn in the dirt topos
tattooed topos
nameless topos
top secret topos
invisible ink topos
imaginary topos
.....!!
|
|
Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2011 - 12:44am PT
|
is bluey still alive?
wat about karl and pass the peton to werner,
how many freaks are thre?
|
|
guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2011 - 03:44am PT
|
Save your money and dont buy the old Spencer book, all the mileage has changed in the passing years (continental drift???) and the roads seem to have different numbers than in the olden days. It is the worst example of a guide book ever written. This is not evident when your looking at it in REI, but becomes very clear when you use it.
My .02 cents on the place is this and I have been there three times in the last 5 weeks.
You need a sturdy vehicle, ground clearance at a minimum, 4 x 4 is better, a real military hummer would be optimum. I wont be taking the Lotus again.
The place is sort of like Joshua Tree in the mountains. It is very complex with little and big cliffs, some hidden from view, with devious approaches. I am sure that there are unclimbed areas.
The climbs are varied from very modern sport climbs- ie bolts at your knees while you clip to very run-out test pieces that remind me of Tobins, Bachars, Leversees and Ron Carson climbs. I haven't found any chipped deals but I am not doing 5.12. The stone is as good as it gets with lots of GOLDEN GRANITE that is nice and steep in many places with features you can grab.
All in all we have had a great time going up there. The 6 hr drive is worth it. It makes me want to move to Fresno and that is scarey. You climbers who live nearby are lucky and you boys should control the rif-raf who are doing bad things to the stone. I reckon a 5.15 is hiding up there on the featured, steep, golden, knobby, water worked stone.
Late
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2011 - 04:11am PT
|
is bluey still alive?
Toe to toe w/ weschris this morning - didn't flinch in the least, and the OP microwave melted down and fell on his sword.
|
|
The Wedge
Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2011 - 05:14am PT
|
I got some money but no time to climb, thanks to nursing school. Cant wait for some golden granite against my tips.
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2011 - 10:43am PT
|
I like one thing about the Spencer book, by his ratings I can climb some 5.12!
|
|
rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2011 - 11:36am PT
|
did you guys do any bouldering atop Queen's Throne?
Yeah but only scratched the surface...that area is a boulderers heaven!
We wandered around and then followed a freshly trodden trail to a area with routes on a super steep faces. The routes on this wall looked like 5.13s...
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2011 - 01:29pm PT
|
Rincon, there is a fun 5.10a on the left side of that face (Dreamscape).
If you wander the base left, all the way down, you'll find some of the best 5.8s on the planet.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2011 - 01:53pm PT
|
Nate, LMBO - that was funny!
Dingus, "Spencers Book Of Lies" = fun adventure!
Slater, Um Tollhouse is more a courtwright area not soyo!
|
|
Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2011 - 02:55pm PT
|
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
|
You mean 3 lizards, right Banquo?
Must
see
higher
rez...
NEWS FLASH! Hurry, hurry, (high)step right up!
Now offering:
framed cross stitch topos
illegibly pixelated topos
abstract expressionist topos
and much much more!
Sorry, it was a long day at work.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2011 - 03:36pm PT
|
Nate I'll take one of them abstract expressionist topos! As long as it can fit in my truck, cause we know sometimes they can get a little large in scale.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2011 - 04:01pm PT
|
Snicker......you are one funny guy Nater....bored at work I see.
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2011 - 04:19pm PT
|
abstract expressionist topos.....
Always happy to help out.
g
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2011 - 06:05pm PT
|
Kev - Um Tollhouse is Tollhouse. Who said it was in Soyo? Courtright?! ha ha Many a Shuteye local helped with the guide though. Muchos gracias.
This Just In - back still tweaked?
Will be there soon.
|
|
Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2011 - 06:22pm PT
|
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2011 - 07:06pm PT
|
Ah, the right variation of pitch 2 of Momma's 'Lil Fledgling.
Thanks for the assistance Banquo.
Here's a cruddy pic of Tiki & Mooch on the FA.
Nice one, Gene. I always figured Duchamp was a climber. 'Course that is a descent route.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Aug 18, 2011 - 07:15pm PT
|
|
|
hairyapeman
Trad climber
Fres-yes
|
|
|
Aug 19, 2011 - 12:26am PT
|
Looking at Mark Spencer's book, "Buzzard Book" and "Onyx" look pretty sweet. Or "Easy Wind" with the sweet chimney in the beginning. Has anyone every climbed these routes before? I've been hearing a lot about "Whiskey Bill" even though it's not in the book. Anyone done this one?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Aug 19, 2011 - 10:24am PT
|
There are several fun routes at Fres Dome. The South Pillar route would be my choice. Easy Wind, Mule Train and Wiskey Bill are all good routes. Wear a helmet, rocks often get thrown from the top.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Aug 19, 2011 - 06:01pm PT
|
...and I have been there three times in the last 5 weeks.
Shame on you Guyzo!! Especially after I put out the invite so we could climb and give you the grand tour. I'm hurt....butt hurt even! ;)
Seriously, it would be great to see you out there. We'll be in the "neighborhood" in late Sept. Email me so we can show you what the 'north end' is like....
Of course, we need to drag Kris, Babs and Larry to show them what they have been missing out on.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 19, 2011 - 06:18pm PT
|
somehow mooch, I think at his rate and level of enthusiasm, Guy is going to be giving YOU a tour by the end of September. :)
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2011 - 05:26pm PT
|
Everyone,
Please email me any info you have on the book of revelation - looking to see what's been done. Also I have a few other questions about that area but would prefer not to put specifics on the web so if you know it well (the balls not just the BoR) pm or email me.
thanks!
kev
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
|
I think beta on the Book of Revelations is in a popular book called The Bible.
hehe....
|
|
Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2011 - 09:13pm PT
|
Kev,
Cragnshag and I put up three routes on the corners and face to the right of Lone Pine Crack. They all lead to the same set of anchors, We called them:
Big Corner, 5.7
Mini Corner, 5.7
Easy Streaks, 5.6 (some bolts)
We also did a route to the right of Dave's Breakfast, I don't recall if we named it 5.7
We also climbed the middle of the south face of the crag just above and behind BoR, I don't think we named it 5.9
We climbed the main face of the crag to the east of BoR but I don't remember much about it.
We climbed Lone Pine Crack with a direct 5.8 finish up the head wall.
Cragnshag has topos, he might have given them to you. He is camping out with the family this week so you will have to wait to hear from him.
Really nice rock at BoR. Lots of moderate terrain. Best approach is from the southeast but expect some brush. The gully approach from the Jackass Lakes Trail is doable but also a bit brushy. Look for a small cairn along the trail and follow the gully up.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2011 - 11:21pm PT
|
Banquo,
Thanks! I called cragnshag and figured he was out since it went straight to voicemail - now I know he was out. I guess I'll be working on the right side then. The gully isn't to bad but does need a little work in a few spots - I was up there a few days back...
kev
|
|
Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2011 - 10:23am PT
|
The gully was much better last year, I think the heavy winter brought a lot of rocks and brush down the gully. The Jackass Lakes Trail got hit pretty hard too with downed tress, etc.
What are you planning? Send me an email if you prefer. I have some good photos of BoR that might be of use.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2011 - 10:40am PT
|
Kev, the Anderson family has done a lot out at the Balls. I would contact Jerry through the Taco.
How was the rest of your weekend? We had a great time out at Gray.
Jeff
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2011 - 01:28pm PT
|
Putting little "snack" out there for the little fishies (John ,susu, Munge, Josh, tiki-ger). In my best Ace Ventura voice, "Here fishy fishy fishy.....I have a little snack for ya!
http://www.vimeo.com/12606827
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2011 - 01:51pm PT
|
Something tells me that's not water in that nalgene.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2011 - 02:29pm PT
|
Banquo,
I'll PM you - cool!
kev
Jeff,
The rest of the weekend was good. We did take some time for a little
basic training though, but that's for the best I suspect - at least she'll be able to get down when I take a whipper ;) I know very few last names so, what Jerry's taco id - I'll ping him too. It was good to see you guys (and the rest of the crew) last weekend!
kev
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2011 - 03:04pm PT
|
No worries Kev, I've got you covered.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2011 - 10:20am PT
|
Gatoritas...?
Nice seeing recent photos - Fresno dome, Queen's throne...
Here are a few more. Fun weekend Jeff, Mony, Mucci, Lo, Kev, Julie!
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2011 - 12:03pm PT
|
Those are some great shots Susu. Delivering the Goods and Tail Feather look awesome, what rating are each of them? Thanks for sharing.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2011 - 12:07pm PT
|
Hi Justin, Thanks! I should try harder on the lighting in that spot - great potential for photos there. Tail Feather is 5.8 (chuckle), and Delivering and Wanderlust are i think 10c's. All mixed (some bolts&gear). You getting out there again I hope?
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2011 - 12:30pm PT
|
5.8 chuckle huh? Hell yeah! I thought the lighting was perfect and climbing in the shade looks nice. Unfortunately, my season is over really before it began, but next year will hopefully be better. I'm going to add some scenic shots from over the years....
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2011 - 02:08pm PT
|
BMac yeah
Adu is very photogenic, and climbs hard too. Cool shots JR. Sunset one especially.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2011 - 02:13pm PT
|
yes, nice pics justin & susu.
Sorry to hear the season is over for you justin. Must be a story there.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2011 - 02:19pm PT
|
more scenics
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
|
Nate- I got some spinal issues that we are still trying to figure out, a couple bulging discs and something else.
Tom- More photos, please
Kev- Thanks man, glad you're back on the rocks.
Louie- Thanks to you as well, have you been jumping the Matrix lately? Tom's still probably having nightmares:)
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2011 - 03:32pm PT
|
TJI - ug that sucks. Heal up!
kev
|
|
socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2011 - 03:46pm PT
|
Sorry to hear about the back problems.
Hope you get a good diagnosis and heal quickly.
Louie
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2011 - 04:21pm PT
|
keep 'em coming
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2011 - 04:53pm PT
|
Mike that was from last year, but Barry has been putting up routes up there this year. Talked to him last night and he told me he just did one with Bruce Boe GU @ 11B. Nice work Bruce and Barry!
For a resoler you'd think he'd be able to tie his shoes HAHAHA
|
|
Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
|
fabulous shots this just in!
is that a recent photo of Barry the Resoler?
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2011 - 05:04pm PT
|
Wow - stunning photos all!
Justin, Really sorry to hear it and hope you bounce back sooner than you think.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2011 - 05:10pm PT
|
Gasp! What amazing photos. Thanks yall!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2011 - 05:58pm PT
|
Like the Silver Divide. Keep snapping away, artists!
Did the arete in the foreground of Paradise go yet, justin?
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2011 - 06:17pm PT
|
Nate it did go, one I wish I would of got. I think it is an eleven something and not sure on the name. Have you been back up here yet or are you working too much?
Susu- thanks for the good thoughts
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2011 - 07:35pm PT
|
not yet.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
|
Nice! Now that's what we need.
|
|
rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2011 - 12:51am PT
|
Wow, great photos everyone!
TFPU!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2011 - 01:00am PT
|
'sposed to be around 90 this weekend...
Cool pics everybody. Feel free to keep it going.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2011 - 08:14pm PT
|
Nate... keep an eye on the mail Saturday/Monday :)
Tom
|
|
Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
|
Aug 29, 2011 - 11:37am PT
|
Yesterday I saw somebody climbing the route Cragnshag and I did on Queen's Throne. Wonder who and what they thought of the route.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 29, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
|
Great pix everyone!
Gotta dig that alpine approach shot...
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Aug 29, 2011 - 03:44pm PT
|
Bagalaar!
|
|
Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 01:50am PT
|
On Sunday I worked out a different approach to the base of Queen's Throne.
From the parking area just before the gate, walk a few yards back down the road to the well used and marked trail. Follow the trail for only about about 10 yards and turn right down a shallow gully. When the summit boulders of Queen's Throne come into view (less than 200 yards) turn left at some ducks. Follow the ducks through several sections each of forest, brush and slabs until you finally reach the small pool at the bottom of the creek/slabs next to Queen's Throne.
I think it much better and perhaps faster than the scramble down the creek gully. I don't know how it will go in the early season when the creek is up.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 03:49pm PT
|
Banquo, would love to hear more about your route and see more photos. Also more about Queens Throne.
Jeff
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 04:00pm PT
|
Dan,
Sounds like an approach crazyhorse described before, or a variation.
Cool you saw climbers on the route, and truly astonishing if that prominent corner wasn't climbed before you guys did it. We've got some old route notes and topos without clear locations from Royal, George Meyers and others, but none seem to match up with that line.
Did ya do any bolt replacement on some scary oldies out there yet?
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 04:05pm PT
|
Nate,
Glad you mentioned replacement - I need to make sure I bring my tuning forks this weekend...
kev
|
|
cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 04:06pm PT
|
Dan was seeing things... He was alone that day, it was hot... what he really saw was either MacBeth's or Banquo's ghost.
|
|
Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 06:15pm PT
|
Old Dan may be seeing things again. I had no doubt that it was a climber when I was looking at it but when I blow up the photos, it doesn't look like one.
Tork - the route goes up the corner in the photo in my previous post at 10a. You'll have to get details from Cragnshag if he is willing to release them since he is the keeper of all notes, topos and as my memory fades -- I forgot what I was going to say.
Nate - I always remind myself that there is no way to prove a first ascent so in my mind I temporarily labels things "First Ascent I Know Of" (FAIKO) while I wait for somebody to educate me about it. It is an obvious feature and I wouldn't be surprised if somebody has done it. Besides, it would be astonishing if a climber of my small caliber was there first. (I can always determine where the 5.9 starts because that's where I fall off) Heck, I'm not even a real climber.
Kev - how did things go at Book of Revelation?
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 06:32pm PT
|
Banquo,
That's this weekend!
Details coming to a forum near you soon ;)
kev
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 06:36pm PT
|
But Dan, did the "climber" actually move. That could be telling. (Though those pesky climbers have occasionally been known to become immobile for long periods of time...)
"First Ascent as Far As I Can Be Sure" (FAFAICBS) or
"First Recorded Ascent Unless Royal's Notes Can Be Deciphered And Prove Otherwise, OR Becky Wasn't Actually There First" (FRAURNCBDAPOOBWATF) might be more commonly used these days. At least that's what I'm sticking with for now.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 06:36pm PT
|
^^Kev^^LOL!!
More like "Book of Regurgitation"
You'll never make it off the ground!!
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 06:41pm PT
|
Josh,
???
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 06:45pm PT
|
come on Kev, put 2 and Blue together...
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 06:50pm PT
|
Don't worry, I'm bringing my silent partner too!
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 06:52pm PT
|
Attaboy!!
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 06:52pm PT
|
Unrelated, but I was in the neighborhood this weekend. Took my five year old and nine year old out of The Norris Trailhead, just past The Balls. Awesome time. Got a bit of rain, some sunsets, some trout and some priceless memories with me boys. Just proves you don't gotta be on the sharp end to enjoy SoYo.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 07:01pm PT
|
Priceless memories, and some fine photos to boot!
TFPU.
Must say all the other photos shared are great, and the balancing mushroom rock is awesome, Tork.
Here's an obscure choss arch:
|
|
Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 07:23pm PT
|
Nate,
The climber moved very slowly, if at all and then disappeared completely!!
Kev-
Book of Revelations is great - especially if you like well protected, moderate climbing like I do. The approach isn't so bad. The west, gully approach takes you to the base of the main face and we have it marked where to leave the trial with a cairn. The other way from the east, start near the bridge at Bowler and walk up slabs then some bushwhacking - bring clippers.
Micronut-
I used to take my little ones up that trail - 15+ years ago.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 07:37pm PT
|
Speaking of balancing rocks...Globe Rock is always fun to stop and gawk at.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 07:37pm PT
|
come on Kev, put 2 and Blue together...
Why I oughta....
Don't worry, I'm bringing my silent partner too!
Hey!!!!
I'm not a loud belayer.
EDIT:
Cool stuff, Micro! Taking kids fishing and scrambling is priceless!
|
|
Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 10:07pm PT
|
Micronut-
My kids at Norris Lake one June 15+ years ago. They insisted on going swimming even though the mosquitoes were bad and there were snow banks in the lake. This is as far as they got.
She's in her last year at UCSB now and he's in his second year at SFSU.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2011 - 11:27pm PT
|
And a good CLIMBING thread goes over 2000 posts!
Yippee!!!!!!!!!
If someone shits on a rope maybe we can pass the WOS thread ;)
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2011 - 02:31am PT
|
M-nut,
Jackass lake, no?
kev
|
|
Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
Balloon Dome, proposed route name is Buffoon Dome. 4 days car to car. I lost 1 pound per day.
John & Sue, we got your note but looked everywhere for the cooler of iced beer and couldn't find it. We would be happy to send you some info via email.
Going light, I only took one shirt. Last night I had to get up at 12:30 and shoot that t-shirt when it tried to raid the kitchen.
I think Bob will eventually produce a TR. Wait for it.
|
|
Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
Dingus-
Balloon Dome. 3000' 3rd/4th descent followed by a 3000' 5.7 ascent. Then reverse.
|
|
rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
Way to go Banquo!
Sounds like an adventure you won't soon forget. Cheers to you guys!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Wow - what an adventure! We thought of you two a number of times over the weekend... Rain check on those beers! Glad to see a preview but really looking forward to a TR!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
Hey Susu, I was with Kev this weekend and we received your equipment deployment. It looks like John got his stuff.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Yes he did, thanks! Here is a photo of you guys at the Balls which we took from the loop road when we passed by. Looks like Kev top and right on the dome. Hope you guys had a great weekend!
|
|
Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
The summit register is in bad shape.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Hey all, I lost my black, Smith sunglasses at Lost Eagle on Monday. Would love to get them back if anyone findes them. I have several replacement lenses that will otherwise go unused.
Thanks'
Jeff
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
If ANY Soyo regulars want a hookup on the new Tollhouse guide ($18 free shipping) PM me. I know many of you climb there when Soyo is snowed in.
Dwight is organizing a Faceoff for the near future as well. Should be fun.
Peace
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
What did you climb Jeff? Have not been to LE this year yet.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
I was up there with John. Not sure of the names. 2 bolts kinda hard to a right leaning easy crack. And a bit right of that we did a short route with bolts to a fun bulge to a ledge with a nice anchor/rap. The second route had another bolt on the ledge below the anchor?
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
No idea Jeff....but were you having fun and smiling?
Is all that matters;)
I was at Wamello....looking at doing an extension of a route that my dear friend and I did BITD. He is no longer with us and as a tribute of sorts.....
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
Great trip, did a full tour . Yelled at kev on a route from the road, ate good food, and managed to get some stone under the feet.
Whoop!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
Cool stuff, susu and Mucci! I think that's kev on pitch #3.
Josh, I was personally hurt you didn't stop by camp...I wept a bit.
|
|
Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
|
Is there some really EASY (5.6 or under) multi pitch route on one of these southern Yosemite Domes that my wife and I might enjoy this fall?
Thanks in advance!
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2011 - 02:22pm PT
|
Inner City,
Yes there are (infact the pic with me a few posts before is of a 5.6 - that ain't in any book ;) but not a lot of soyo topos will ever get put on the web. Instead, you should come up, hang around and meet some peeps and do some exploring. That's the best way - it's all about adventure and meeting the locals.
Otherwise search the web for what little there is or buy Spencers always helpful Guidebook of lies.....
kev
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2011 - 03:17pm PT
|
My Lord.....your Kingdom beckons you!!
All -
Will be there on Friday morning (Sept 23rd). Pat Brennan and cru will be there that night to sample LE. Hoping a few of the regular rats will be on hand to play steward.
Tiki -
can you play on Friday (23rd) to get "something done"? Susu?
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2011 - 04:20pm PT
|
5.6 and under routes (not all are multipitch, and the Starr King routes are in Yosemite NP, but in the Spencer guidebook)
102. Chute Out 5.1
11. MR A 5.3
99. MU A 5.3
103. MU E 5.3
217. Made in the Shade 5.3
276. Water Crack - Left 5.3
5. Mt. Starr King - Northeast Face 5.4
18. MR G 5.4
26. EMR Cv 5.4
53. Oldsquaw A 5.4
93. Worm Squirm 5.4
147. Tin Roof 5.4
148. Big Dogs 5.4
207. Sink Me 5.4
216. Morning Thunder 5.4
277. Water Crack - Right 5.4
1. Mt. Starr King - Southeast Face 5.5
149. Woodchuck 5.5
190. Trough 5.5
259. Eye of the Needle 5.5
278. First Lead 5.5
398. BB chimney 5.5
587. Opening Farewell 5.5
661. Walkabout 5.5
15. MR D 5.6
19. MR H 5.6
96. Green Slime 5.6
114. Necromancy 5.6
117. Harlot 5.6
187. Fox Trot 5.6
188. Bay Bridge 5.6
218. Arch Direct 5.6
254. Golden Toad - West Face 5.6
257. Golden Toad - SW Ridge 5.6
258. Golden Toad - South Face Arch 5.6
272. Woodstock 5.6
294. Night Driver 5.6
302. Easy Streaks 5.6
350. Paper Tiger 5.6
365. Scepter 5.6
583. Kind of Neat 5.6
601. Fistful of Gravel 5.6
649. Apple Ranch 5.6
651. Nick Bottom 5.6
659. Good and Good for You 5.6 *
686. Squaw Dome - West Book 5.6
The Golden Toad routes are 3-4 pitches each.
Scepter is 5 pitches, on Queen's Throne.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2011 - 07:08pm PT
|
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2011 - 07:21pm PT
|
Awesome, Tork.
Ya should've dropped 'em at the base of the route called "If Found, Please Call..."
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2011 - 07:37pm PT
|
Nice Jeff...
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2011 - 02:35pm PT
|
Hopefully we can meet up! Jeff, what about you since you still need to find your glasses? Dave, who all is going to be there with you and Pat?
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Sep 14, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
|
The TR;
So I get the call a week early from an unnamed friend (Kev) that he needs a partner for some FA’s in Shuteye. Sweet!
But I’m tell kev that there’s no way because it’s short notice and my wife would be alone with the boy all weekend. I tell her about the call and the lameness of 7-day notice on a 4 day trip. Her reply was, “You should go, I’ll take John down to hang with Grandma all weekend”…….
Heehee!!!! I called kev back and said I was (mostly) ALL IN!!!!
Shopping is first after departing the Bay on Friday at about 12-1pm. Yessss!!!!!!!!
I wouldn’t be told about our objective until late into the ride there. The first would be a warm-up and variation attempt on one of his established routes there.
On our way to the route we notice kev’s favorite site is being evacuated by Werner and Mayfield’s friend, Dave Norris.
Sweet! They were totally cool and Dave was telling us stories of people he knew in the Valley and Mayfield and Werner’s names came up. And there were many others.
Apparently he’s a retired back country ranger. Cool guy too! I think we freaked his wife out because we were target shooting my sidearm late Friday night afternoon, about a ¼ mile from their site. She thought we were just random shooting into the air!
The route???
It’s on the Nightw#tch. It’s called ‘2 Wounded Soldiers’. I think the variation we did he’s calling ‘Ribbed For Comfort’, (4 pitches, 5.6 Shuteye scale).
Mucci did greet us on route from the base. Thank you! Next time come by for beers!!!!!! WTF?!
I was a little disappointed he didn’t drop by. We only had 3 bottles of wine, 50 beers, and margaritas. WTF?
I get the second pitch, no pics because Kev is lame on the camera…
After I descended I was done. No Mas!! Awesome route, very cool! The descent was a calf destroyer. Despite being called the “Turtle” by Kev, for my hiking speed, I did okay on this brutal deathmarch. But we weren’t done. Not yet.
Onto an undisclosed walled called Swilloh Wall, we did some recon. Many beverages had to be tied into this project. It was grueling in the sun. We persevered and made it out o.k. It was dramatic.
It’s a nice looking wall.
We recon’d it on Sunday and did some prep work.
We get hammered on Sunday night/!/@% . Hehe!
Monday is the day to put up new routes that were prepared the day prior. We head out, go up our nice trail that is grueling to me, and as we sit and have a beer half way up we see the horror.
Dark-lined clouds rolling in pretty fast. All headed towards our dome from multiple directions. We get bummed but decide to head up and see what happens, it may blow through!
We get up there and it is worse. Bad conditions to be flailing on an FA. We scope some lines, take pics, drink more beers, and then bail.
On the way out of the Ridge we make some stops. Apparently the local rednecks aren’t good at packing out their shells, or uncleaned and uneaten trout.
Idiots.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2011 - 12:35am PT
|
Kev and Bluey -
Is that by Matt's route?
Susu -
No body count yet but I assume Pat, his wife Lori, Ken Kennaga (partnered with Pat on many FA's throughout the year....a few FA's on Stonehouse Buttress and South Face of LPP) and a handful of local Big Bear/Lake Arrowhead climbers. Hope a good chunk of the crew shows up!
Tork -
Will look for your glasses.....
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2011 - 03:46am PT
|
Mooch, I'm pretty sure Kev put that rig up. I'll let him chime in.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2011 - 02:03pm PT
|
Thanks for the share, bluey.
Kev,
In your travels on Nightw#tch, have you spotted yet Spencer's anchors for Planet Granite, to the right of Wounded Soldiers?
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2011 - 09:30am PT
|
North Fork/Auberry's hidden falls.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2011 - 11:00am PT
|
Kevin, is that the Jose Basin or Million Dollar Mile Rd.? Some good storms that last weekend.
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2011 - 11:05am PT
|
That is Shaver Lake being drained into Stevenson creek taken from the million dollar mile.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2011 - 11:14am PT
|
Cool shot, some reason I think that was the end of the road for you. Not power dome excursion go down yet? Also, if you're free tomorrow Jeremy, and I are headed to shuteye, if you want to check out some boulders or rope up.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2011 - 12:24pm PT
|
Hah, I always figured that million dollar mile was gated...
Mooch,
Which one of matts routes? He's got 10 or more I suspect on that dome.
Nate,
I'm trying to put together a good topo for that dome but it will take more time. I might know where those anchors are.
kev
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2011 - 12:53pm PT
|
cool shot doughnut. I've been there several times, but have never seen it like that!
Kev, let's talk.
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2011 - 01:49pm PT
|
I would be honored to hold your rope tommorow TJI, I'll call you or your brother tonight. (unless I can find a partner for "not power dome", Barry's injured and Kenny's smitten with a girl).
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2011 - 01:56pm PT
|
Cool, I can't climb, but I can hang out and do some bad spotting, talk to you later.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
|
Dave, thanks again ~ looking forward to seeing and meeting everybody at least for Sat night but hopefully more. Will be trying to coordinate all week with some folks possibly coming out too. Please email us where you'll be camped and if there's anything we can bring.
TFPU your TR Bluering - glad you and Kev had a good time!
Justin - hopefully you're almost healed... I thought you were til I saw your last post.
Nice shot of the falls donught!
Here's one of the woods off Minaret's from last year - kind of bummed summer's almost over but high weather hopes for the next season.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Sep 19, 2011 - 07:38pm PT
|
Susu -
Will do. Meeting up with Tiki Friday morning. Have $15 dollars....will travel, nahmeen?
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Sep 20, 2011 - 12:53am PT
|
Wuh??
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 20, 2011 - 04:13am PT
|
Mooch - Nawmeen. We'll cover you. But now why ya'always gotta git up in my know what i'm say'ins?! :D
Wish we could meet a day early with you and Tiki! Will miss that if we don't... could'a used the workout for sure! We'll see.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 23, 2011 - 01:43am PT
|
Ok, Good agave tequila, Mooch. Check.
|
|
socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
|
|
|
Sep 26, 2011 - 09:09pm PT
|
Just got back from 3 glorious days up at Shuteye. Every time I leave, I wish I lived closer...
Visited many formations I hadn't been to before including several up at the Eagle Beaks. Climbed on 5 different formations, but the standout route for me was Space Lord, a 150-foot 12a on the South Eagle Beak - an amazing endurance challenge up a steep water streak.
Spent one day up near Chilkoot Lake, pulling on the Magic Wall and other formations around it. Finished that day by playing in what's left of the lake.
Last day was spent up near High Eagle. Played around on The Aerie in the morning, before trudging down to the 50-5.7's formation. I had never seen that crag and it is HUGE! There's room for many more routes to be done there at just about all grades and types of climbing (cracks, slabs, mixed, and steep face). The standout route of the day was definitely Climbing on the Brain, an older Dan McDevitt route that was brilliant! It was rated a very sandy 10d,but felt more like 5.11 to me. There's wasn't a lick of chalk on the line, which I really enjoyed for the route-finding challenge it provided. There are a few runouts on the route, but for the most part it's got protection where you need it. I could not recommend this route more to anyone looking for a long (140') face-climbing challenge up a beautifully streaked steep wall.
This trip was all about seeing new things, which made for A LOT of hiking, but it was a very good trip and provided just the break I was looking for.
Thank you to everyone that continues to develop new climbing options up there...
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Sep 27, 2011 - 07:14pm PT
|
That was a great weekend Louie! Thanks to you and Valarie for coming up and sampling some new stuff. Very grateful to get some good pics of you guys onsighting and working some Shuteye classics for the guide. Glad you guys didn't mind all the hiking too much. The Beaks is still a burly approach even with the new trail. At least its all been cleared and marked now.
The 20 plus footer you took off the last hard move on Space Lord was fun to watch from right above you. To bad I forgot to snap a pick. Heres one from before...
Valarie on Baby Eagle Dome
50 5.7's
Chilkoot Lake Area - Valarie
Aerie
Magic Wall onsight
Storm Cell
|
|
P.Rob
Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
|
|
|
Sep 27, 2011 - 07:34pm PT
|
Grahm
28 years ago, I was young and a Crew Leader for a back country Trail Crew working out of Clover Meadows Ranger Station. We covered area all the way up to Granite Stairway and environs. While doing work at Iron Lake,I noticed a Crag with numerous splitter cracks that sat above the Lake. Are you familiar with this and would you know if this crag has ever had a serious look…..
|
|
socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
|
|
|
Sep 27, 2011 - 07:57pm PT
|
Thanks for posting these pics Grahm - it's nice to have good images to remember the good times.
For those that haven't checked them out, both Space Lord and Climbing on the Brain are amazing routes!
Space Lord (South Eagle Beak) - an easier (5.7?) approach pitch leads to a hanging belay. Some slab moves for a few bolts lead to the base of the steep black streak. Continuous 5.11 edge and crimp climbing takes you to the top of the cliff. The whole pitch is probably about 150 feet long and there are no real stopper cruxes on the climb. Instead, it's just a matter of keeping the pump at bay. I thought I was doing a pretty good job of that until a foothold broke on me as I was moving through the last hard move...oh well, at least the fall was all air. Anyhow, this route alone is worth the long approach and should be on anyone's to do list if the grade is attainable. Luckily, there are many other good routes and boulder problems in the same general area.
Climbing on the Brain (50 5.7's formation)- immediately after clipping the first bolt, the route-finding challenges hit you. This is a long (140 feet?) pitch that is full of sustained, technical and sometimes committing climbing. There are a few runouts to deal with, but thankfully those sections are found on slightly easier terrain. The middle 90 feet of the route is the real challenge, with the hardest moves coming at the end of that section. 20 feet of very steep climbing on positive holds provides a pleasant end to this standout route. There is another similarly rated route to the right of this one that is reportedly just as good, but I did not have time to get on that one...next time I guess.
I got on a lot of good routes this trip, but those two were the definite standouts.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Sep 27, 2011 - 08:10pm PT
|
Some of the best pics I've seen, good work Louie, Valarie, and Grahm.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Sep 27, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
|
The Brain, one of my favorite routes on the Ridge. Dan rates both those 10c...glad others think they are harder.
Nice pics.
What about that crack right below Louie? Looks splitter hands?
|
|
Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
|
|
|
Sep 27, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
|
Awesome photos!
Nice job of taking those!
|
|
The Wedge
Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Sep 27, 2011 - 11:31pm PT
|
Ya, what Levy said.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2011 - 12:31am PT
|
Yes, nice photos.
And that is a beautiful looking hand crack!
Some snapshots of last weekend:
Thanks for a great time everybody and another full value Shuteye weekend!
|
|
Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2011 - 12:34am PT
|
the party that never was,,
why dont you start charging membership fees?
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2011 - 08:06am PT
|
Sprock -
Got you covered on your initial set up fees for eHarmony.
Something with wide child bearing hips and an appetite to browse low end retail stores?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2011 - 03:04pm PT
|
Enjoying all the pics. I think we all want more, more, more.
Was amazed at all the traffic out at Big Sleep over the weekend. Seemed most folks enjoyed the climbing.
Unfortunately for me I was a pup tied to a tree on Saterday. Sun and Mon made up for it though, thanks Sean. Sling Em if You Got Em!
It was nice meeting folks as they came down from their climbs. After almost 11 years in Yosemite I finally met Brian Ketron. Also met his bud Hans...can't believe he is 60. Thanks for the Modelo boys.
Later I met Pat, John,(nice guys)Noel(very cool lady) and an unruly Kevin. Great meeting you all and also thanks for several cervezas.
Finally John and Sue came down with Mooch and Tiki. Had a fun night by the inferno with all those guys. Done a fair amount of climbing with John and Sue, they know I love them, and hope to Climb with Dave and Jerry in the near future. They also fed me several beers, thanks guys.
I guess not climbing has some advantages, all the climbers are so happy they are passing out beers left and right.
Also, who is incharge of lost and found out there? I still need my sunglasses and saterday, due to all the beers you all made me drink I lost my headlamp...I think near the Runnel Vision Wall. There was chalk on all the routes out at Runnel Vision... good to see... wondering who???
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
|
due to all the beers you all made me drink I lost my headlamp...
Heheheheee - You should know better with this crew ;)
kev
|
|
socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2011 - 03:54pm PT
|
Grahm will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the crack is Monster Magnet - 11c.
And a good part of it is far wider than a hand crack. Very nice looking line though...
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2011 - 04:14pm PT
|
Looks nice! I will bring the big boys, thanks for the heads up.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2011 - 04:38pm PT
|
John, Susu, Tiki -
Thanks for letting me live up to my namesake.....the jackets kept me toasty and the fuel was useful to heat up my leftover coffee. Ger....thanks for letting me haul the 30 pound pack up the stone. :P HAHA!! Bitch, bitch, bitch....too easy!
Jeff -
We didn't even get the chance to chat one on one....Ger hogged all your time! ;) Certainly hope to do something soon though. Glad you got out with "Aaron....'I Don't Know Much, But I Know I Love You' Neville" (aka Sean). Want to climb Fish one of these days.
Kev.....playing with your Balls, when you should've been playin' with us. Tisk tisk!
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2011 - 04:55pm PT
|
Mooch,
I was hiding out at the leap with its questionable locals...
kev
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Sep 29, 2011 - 10:01pm PT
|
Fall temps are going to be moving in. Next week they are calling for snow levels down to 7,500ft. Picture blast coming up...
P.Rob - Those cracks looked good to me too but shrink when you actually get up close to them. The rock is shattered pretty good out there and would take a lot of cleaning. As far as I know everything out there is still unclimbed.
Jeff - Louie is correct, that is Monster Magnet, full 60m pitch. I used three 5's on the FA but if you don't mind walking them a ways two 5's would be fine. The crack starts wide, pinches down to nothing then open and closes again. There's a few bolts for the non gear sections.
The chalk on all the routes at RV Wall was me. Just verifying bolt counts and grades. Struggle Within and RV are two of the best 30m bolted climbs on the ridge. Nice job on them. Do you remember the name of the one to the right of RV?
A few more pics from the Beaks area...
New High Eagle Multi Pitch
Gray Eagle
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Wednesday: Snow. High near 44. South wind around 8 mph. Chance of precipitation is 100%. New snow accumulation of 10 to 16 inches possible.
Wednesday Night: Snow showers. Low around 30. Chance of precipitation is 90%. New snow accumulation of 3 to 5 inches possible.
Thursday: A 30 percent chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 47. New snow accumulation of 1 to 2 inches possible.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
I was aware but never knew the full reason for it and the meaning of the new name. Interesting stuff, thanks for the links!
|
|
Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
I came in from above and replaced the two protection bolts on the climb The Big Sleep that Doug Matthews and I put up many years ago. They were on the next to last of 6 or 7 pitches. There are three belay bolts to replace, but those could easily be done as they are at comfortable places. A #3 friend is essential for the belay marked 2 in the Spencer guide. It is actually the third belay. We were proud to have used so few bolts. However, I wouldn’t grumble if someone added a second bolt to back up the first bolt and the #3 friend at that belay. Also #4 friends might be handy for the crack and maybe some cord for tying off knobs on the fifth pitch? I don’t imagine this route will get done much, if at all, because the leader should be comfortable doing at least one move of 5.8 a very long way out from anything. From the ground, one could climb almost 200’ thinking they were on a new route before they see the first bolts at the second belay (the belay marked #1).
Our route was put up long ago to fit what we wanted to do that day, perhaps the first route in that vicinity on that side of an obscure ridge. There was no guidebook. We were influenced by the Tuolumne guideline of the day that to be good style, below 5.9 rarely got a bolt. If we later wrote it up, the idea was that our audience who might actually go there would probably be one or two readers of the Alpine Journal who would want a lot of adventure. I know, I know: besides anchors only two protection bolts in about 5 pitches of face climbing is not enough for a current climb. I won’t defend it any more except to say gym climbers didn’t even exist then and we didn’t know if anyone else would ever go there. If I have time, I’ll read the rest of the Super Chicken Thread. Good comments on both sides, it seems. No need to rehash it all here, as this route isn’t that important.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Stephen, proud line. Room for all. I think Big Sleep now has a little of everything. Good to have stuff like your original route to climb when we're feeling on top of our game. Way to pave the way, and what a cool adventure you two had.
Cool pics.
Bummer about the snow. But temps look pretty good for a stretch after that.
|
|
Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
Slater,
Thanks. We had fun.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Thanks for replacing those Stephen! Hope it was with stainless steel. Slab eats regular steel so quickly up there its surprising. The wet winters really do a number on it. Some of Sean Jones routes from 2004 are already showing rust on non stainless hardware. The route is a worthy bolt replacement project for at the very least, anchor replacement. One or two bolts per pitch would be nice to keep people alive but thats just me... :-) Its your route, you make the call. Its a proud line just the way it is too. People are actually going there to climb now so its not so obscure anymore.
Leo and I climbed your route under some adverse conditions back when it was the only climb there.
Here is a recounting of that experience which I wrote a while back.
“The Big Sleep” FA Doug Matthews, Steve McCabe 1979. We started up the route in April after Jeeping through giant snow drifts to reach the dome. Blue skies and warm rock encouraged us up the route. As we climbed higher we soon realized that this was a "serious" route with few to no gear placements and no bolts between anchors. I use the term “anchors” loosely as the quarter inch bolts with rusted square nuts were barely suited to hang a hat on. Much less catch a potential 200 foot slab fall. I was on lead duty for all the pitches and Leo belayed while trying not to lean back for fear of blowing out the rusted anchor with body weight. At least the climbing was relatively easy. No hand holds mind you but good friction on shallow dishes. About 500 feet and half way up the route dark clouds suddenly surrounded us and a cold wind raced up the face. Clouds then began whirling around us and a fog obscured the route. We wanted to bail and rappel immediately but the anchors were too dubious to trust. The only way out was to climb faster before the storm unleashed its heavy load of freezing precipitation.
I found myself 120 feet run out with no pro. Leo’s belay consisted of one rusted bolt and poor sideways slotted stopper. Then it began to hail. Gently at first. The little round balls of ice looked almost comical as they bounced of the white stone and rolled down the wall. The humor of it faded quickly as some of them began to rest in the shallow dishes I was smearing in. It was cold enough that they didn’t melt straight away and I wiped them off the dishes as best I could and continued paddling my way up the wall. I began to think maybe it would better for Leo to just take me off belay and untie from the rope on his end. That way if I fell I wouldn’t rip him from his belay, breaking his anchor and sending him hurling down the wall tied with my fate. Best not to dwell on these thoughts and climb faster before the little balls begin to liquefy.
Soon I arrived at a decent gear anchor and breathed a temporary sigh of relief as it began to snow. Leo quickly arrived at the belay and we agreed that we should press on as fast as possible and climb the final two pitches to the top. The slab was getting wet and rather than risk a foot slipping on the slick granite I eyed a decent looking finger crack that broke off left. The climbing was brilliant but the rising wind and swirling snow sent me scurrying higher in search of the top. Soon the crack ended but luckily a series of knobs drifted left toward a wide flaring crack in the dome. Relief of reaching the crack after the sizeable run out was off set by the realization that ice cold water was running down the back of it. I stayed as far out of the crack as possible to avoid getting wet and ran up the crack till we were out of rope and set up a belay. It took a while for Leo to reach me and I began to shiver. Finally he arrived and I quickly realized we needed to get off this thing immediately. Leo’s long belay and not moving, had lowered his body temp. He wasn’t responding well to questions and his hands weren’t working well and his cloths had become damp.
I quickly helped him set up his belay and was glad to be moving again. I struck out up the crack to a short steep section. The water was growing in size and cascaded down the crack. It was surreal climbing this little water fall trying to stay dry and not slip at the same time. The crack turned into a slip and slide ramp and I decided to head left up a slab of rocky ribs. Ice water ran down the little gutters and the realization that the classic Shuteye ribs were formed from thousands of years of just this type of weathering was drove home like an ice pick to the brain. Tip toeing up the ribs and attempting to keep my shoes dry went on for a hundred feet. Finally the summit appeared and I threw myself down behind some small boulders for belay and escaped out of the freezing wind.
Leo slowly arrived and I could tell he was relieved to be at the top. We knew now that we would not end up frozen popsicles on the giant wall. My pants had frozen stiff as boards and we were anxious to walk off. As quickly as possible we descended an endless bush whack in the snow back to the base of the wall. We ran back to the Jeep with our tails between our legs glad to have survived the adventure.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Could there be any better name than the Big Sleep? It's perfect. Grahm, you and Leo have had some epics, but this is my favorite.
Fuller Buttes used to be called Squaw Tit's but somehow this was derogatory too. Bring back Squaw Nipple and Squaw Tit's!:)
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Leo the Lionhearted! Right on Leo and Grahm. Glad I wasn't there, ha ha.
JR, sorry I missed ya on the coast. You got great weather, I hope you enjoyed the coastal life.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Slater - it was some perfect weather, too bad I was under the weather and working long days, but still enjoyed the coast. Climbed the Afternoon Nap on Saturday, my first climbing in over three months and damn did it feel good. The Big Sleep dome sees a lot of love these days.
John cruised up the 1'000 ft route, his first multi-pitch and only his forth time climbing ever. It was great to watch and a big accomplishment for him.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Back on the stone, stoked for you Just In.
|
|
socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
|
|
Glad to see you back on the stone...hope that trend continues.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
JRs - Sorta like motocross...
Come over and I'll take you out to the channel.
And bring your fishin' pole!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
And bring your fishin' pole
Hey now, can I come? Ling-cod, halibut, stripers, and maybe salmon???
|
|
justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
|
|
What break is that? moro jetty? I nearly had a wave break on me in that channel on a 25 ft boat with a 10 hp out board.
I miss SLO!
|
|
Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
Grahm,
Thanks for the story. I’m glad too, I wasn’t there on your snowy ascent.
Today at the gym, I was recommending Afternoon Nap to someone.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Gaviota shorebreak on the way out to Cojo and Government Point (much better breaks 13 miles north!)
Nasty weather on the coast, can only imagine what it is like up on the ridge today.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Great news Justin!
Grahm your right, the Big Sleep is not obscure... saw at least 6 parties on 3 different routes the weekend before last.
The name of the first route right of Runnel Vision is Friendly Fire then Cry Me A River then The Way We Roll
How many routes do you nave on the Beaks?
Kev, glad to hear you fit in with the locals at the Leap.
Slater, John and Sue enjoyed Afternoon Nap
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Thanks Jeff, Louie, and Tom. Still not good to go, but I had to test it and it was worth it. We met Dan and Sue Mcdevitt on our way out on Saturday. They are cool people and hope they enjoyed that side of the ridge.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Thanks Jeff,
Tom, Jeremy and Justin also added some awesome new routes up there this year. Collectively I think we have over 30 new routes from 5.7 to 5.12 and from 15 meters to 3 pitches. Only one is all bolts the rest are mixed or gear only. With many being ground up. Matt Schutz added a few routes in 2007 and before that Spencers Guide only reported 6 routes out there, with the newest being in 1982. It was great to have our pick of new ones to do. The new trail was key to establishing routes there, but the approach is still around 1 hour and 20 minutes. How about you, anything new?
Pics from yesterday before it really started coming down...
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
groan, too soon!
Brandon Thau had something to do with several of those on first weekend in May. I figure after a 5 mile backpack through the snow to get to the beaks, he deserves a mention. If it wasn't for his GPS we'd still be wandering around up there I suppose. He'd probably have eaten me by now though.
The "locals" took the shortcut and ditched us out of towners in the snow ;)
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Stephen McCabe - Hope you don't feel you have to defend how you guys did a route in good style! Very much appreciate the anchor update, the info, how you did the route, your conservative bolting effort, and the route itself for the adventure it preserves. Not saying I'm going to volunteer to lead it, but I know some folks who will love to. The route is not insignificant to us, on the contrary.
Do you or does anyone know about the route between Gumby and Midnight just left of Big Sleep with bolted anchor at first pitch and following the left of two black streaks to the headwall with no other fixed pro?
|
|
Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
Susu,
Thank you very much. Doug and I spent about a day and a half to two days there and put up The Big Sleep and Voodoo Child. Of the two, I liked Voodoo Child better. I’m sorry but those are the only ones I have climbed in the immediate vicinity and I don’t know about the route you ask about.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Oct 11, 2011 - 10:33pm PT
|
everyone,
i've recently lost my job and will be climbing in SoYo until the roads are completely blocked with snow. Hit me up if you'd like to get together. It will be great to see you folks.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 12, 2011 - 12:17am PT
|
Steve, We climbed The Big Sleep route and had a good time. Definitely runout the first few pitches, which made for some adventurous route exploring. Did the left crack variation at the top which was my favorite part.... as sweet to climb as it looks! Voodoo Child sounds good! Hope to try that before the snows.
Wow Matt, what a great consolation prize! We look forward to crossing paths and having some beers with ya out there.
Good chatting with a couple folks out there this wkend... Jeremy, John, Steve. Sorry we missed chatting you up too Justin.
Hey Jeff, Tiki, Mooch, Sean and the ROTW climbers... had a blast climbing and hanging by the fire that couple of weekends ago. Wish that could happen more often. O, and Jeff, ya know we love ya too!
|
|
mctwisted
Social climber
superslacker city
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2011 - 01:20am PT
|
good job steve, it was great meeting you!
|
|
Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2011 - 03:07am PT
|
I tried to get them to believe that while walking alone I was using the hexes outside of the pack to clang enough not to get shot during hunting season. Seriously, I used to know some of those hunters.
They wanted a photo of my prehistoric gear. What can I say? At least nothing broke.
Nice to meet you folks.
Here’s some even older stuff I didn’t bring, though it might not be my oldest stuff.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Oct 17, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
|
Awesome!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 17, 2011 - 07:52pm PT
|
Well done Steve.
Great shots everyone. Love the tree pro, Tom.
Keep at it Justin!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2011 - 12:06pm PT
|
Awesome, nice to be able to place a face to the name/routes. We loved Voodoo Child Steve. One of the best routes I have been on out at Shuteye. Nothing else like it that I have seen out there. I don't think it's been done in a while. The anchor on Voodoo Child is a definite candidate for replacement...think light, think light, think light. Would love to hear the story of your first ascent.
The game is definitely not over!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2011 - 01:09pm PT
|
route maintenance, nice job Steve. How'd it go?
Quick question for any Queen's Throne experts...
I climbed a route that started on RR's Coronet and then instead of going right into the middle of that roof and around the corner and up, it went sorta over the left side and then straight up a thin runnel up to the headwall and up it. I would love to know the name and rating. Equipped with button heads and metolious hangers. Late 80s or early 90s? I have 3 topos for Queens and it wasn't on any of those. There was definitely some 5.10a climbing in there, so I'll call it 5.8 like everyone else. Proud route, and the Robbins route was stout as well. Respect for any of you Queen's climbers.
Glad you're all having fun, enjoy the season before it's over!
Good to see Tiki and others at the Faceoff at Tollhouse.
Justin lives...
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2011 - 02:59pm PT
|
Banquo
there is a solid trail to Dreamscape, so I just used that at the start, then booked it down a low angle slab to the fixed line/waterfall. I only had to walk along side the creek drainage for like 30' and it was no big deal. Pretty actually, no real brush crashing. The walk along the base was gorgeous, with that big wall and water chutes looming overhead. It seemed like the natural path, not sure if it was yours, but looked like it was the usual path used in the past, as it was worn, but not clipped. Actually, Queen's was one of the easiest formations to get to, no wonder it got so many routes on it so early.
Clint?
Nate?
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2011 - 03:50pm PT
|
Tom,
Your description of the left variation to Coronet is clear.
I don't know the name or rating.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2011 - 01:41am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2011 - 11:51am PT
|
SUNDIAL! Sheet yeah. Matt sorry to hear about your job, on-the-otherhand glad you get to get some soyo in.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
|
Photos from climbing Voodoo Child this weekend. Awesome climb!
Add: Nice shots Tom & Matt! Queen's Dome is a beauty. And finishing off with El Cid's sounds fun.
Add: Really cool imagining going up Voodoo its first time w/the gear in that photo, Steve.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2011 - 03:58pm PT
|
missed ya out there Just In
Thanks Clint. Maybe we'll never know, but it was a stout route, pretty fun i guess if you like slab stuff, the headwall pitch followed an amazing rib of knobs that required really high steps and mantles. You could see that pitch from the ground, striking. The lower pitches were just average.
|
|
Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2011 - 03:14am PT
|
The third pitch below the Robbins headwall is very cool looking rock.
|
|
Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2011 - 05:07am PT
|
Tork, not much of a story about the Voodoo Child first ascent other than I really enjoyed all of it. It looked a bit intimidating from the ground. The roof/lieback/undercling was quality climbing. I saved our three #2 friends for the crux section above, but I don’t seem to remember anything too run out. I think with abundant gear, it could be sewn up. Someone suggested taking 6 or 7 green camalots. I lost my custom Manx Mountaineers chalk bag on the way to the climb.
We wanted to do a long route directly up the largest face we could see, so we did Big Sleep, which was about as easy as it looked but not as difficult as we had hoped. So we placed almost no pro, except on the nice pitch with the wide crack followed by two protection bolts on the face and then a runout. The variation to the left, which has been done at least twice, sounds more in keeping with the difficulty of the rest of the route than our crack pitch(?).
I was excited to do more new routes, but Doug wanted to go to the valley. (warning: potential thread drift ahead.)
Leaving the area in the VW squareback on our way to north to Yosemite was more adventurous. There was a steep downhill where I needed to go high on a rock on the right and slide back and down towards the middle of the road as I hit the far side of the rock to avoid a rock that would have high centered us. We knew we wouldn’t be able to reverse the move. How bad could it be in front of us? Ha. A while later we came to an interesting, wide creek crossing. After looking at it for a very long time, we decided to try to drive moderately quickly through it never letting up on the accelerator because the tailpipe would be below water. I came at it with some speed. Part of the way through we started floating sideways, maybe 5 feet forward and 1 foot sideways before the wheels hit rock again.
In the Valley, I seem to recall we got a late start and were on our way on the shuttle to go do a route on the Column. We got off the shuttle early because we decided to do the NW face of Half Dome instead. We must have bought some more food at Curry Village for the dinner at the base and headed up the trail. Cold canned beans and hot dogs, what a treat for a vegetarian! The next day, climbing and hauling we get to the ledge above the 12th pitch at about 2:00 pm where we had caught up with another party. The famous British climber, Pete Livesey and partner, working on Half Dome in a day, were gaining on us. Rain was about to set in for the afternoon and we were jockeying for who would do what. I took off my shirt because I didn’t want it to get wet and set off up the off width while Livesey was French freeing the A1 pitch. I didn’t have wide pro to slow me down and I decided to have fun trying to keep up with him. At the belay, it started raining, so I headed back to the ledge. Doug dropped my t-shirt while trying to hand it back to me, so all I had above the waist for the rest of the climb was a new, tan, pile jacket.
The next day as we were going for the summit, in the early afternoon we saw incredibly dark clouds over the Meadows and high country. We heard later that the water cracks on Lembert were waterfalls that day and supposedly Tenaya Lake rose 9 inches. We were rushing towards the summit as the clouds started backing West towards Clouds Rest. We had to decide either to hunker down or charge ahead. The last two pitches, going down and then back up, can be run together if you don’t put in protection and that got us to the summit quickly where we ran for the cables as fast as we could with the haul bag on a shoulder. We got incredibly lucky that the clouds did indeed stop at Clouds Rest, with us getting down the cables without any lightning.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2011 - 12:24pm PT
|
What a treat reading your stories... highlights from memories... when your FA of Voodoo Child was only a warm-up! Wonder where your bag is in those bushes to voodoo... such a bushwhack. Probably has manzanita growing out of it.
We too have added to the adventure by occasionally driving around shuteye in a westy... flirting with the idea of having to abandon ourselves out there for days. But taking it across the water like that... whole other level of abandon!
On the big sleep, the crack pitch seemed in keeping with the rating below, except it wasn't runout, and we felt that we may have missed the crux pitch somewhere to the right. Didn't have the book with us so... with all the lack of sign of bolts etc... felt a little like fa'ing,except that crack variation was such nice climbing that seems it would have seen a lot of traffic if shuteye ever were to get traffic.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2011 - 12:52pm PT
|
I did a water crossing near Bowman lake once that had that same sort of momentum or perish scenario going on. Nearly panicked when water came briefly over the hood of my Isuzu Trooper! It didn't help my climbing that day, knowing I'd have to reverse that move...
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
|
Bowman Lake - never been there but read somewhere its got some really good climbing. Hope to see you climbing sometime soon!
|
|
Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
|
I'm thinking of going up to Big Sleep in a couple weeks if the weather is nice. I've never climbed there. If anybody can offer some information on the approach and perhaps topos I would appreciate it. Thanks
|
|
Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2011 - 03:37pm PT
|
Just back from a weekend in Yosemite. My wife and I did Afternoon Nap on the Big Sleep. Thanks to Tom's generosity we were very well prepared for this moderate adventure. Not another sole was out there on Saturday and we had a brilliant day.
Thanks Tom for your kindness and generosity. I too now know about the specialness of that remote area! Wow, what awesome rock quality and such a fun route!
That someone (Tom) is willing to put up moderate routes like the 'Nap that a former weekender/duffer like me can manage is just great.
I am imagining that the long driving approach to the area is something that may keep the 'crowds' away.
So Yo is wonderful...we will be back.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Pics of conditions from today...
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Brrrrrrr...
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2011 - 12:35am PT
|
Nice ice smear! Time to break out the Quarks!!
Look John....ICE!! Oh wait....you hate winter. ;)
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2011 - 12:36am PT
|
Just In Nuf Knobs
Hope the back heals solid and you're back at it full crack next year.
|
|
Ol' Skool
Trad climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2011 - 08:11pm PT
|
Grahm, did you get in any frontpointing on that verglass?
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2011 - 09:18pm PT
|
Thanks Slater, it's been tough this year. Great shot, forgot all about that boulder. See you soyos next year.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2011 - 09:37pm PT
|
Switching gears...
here's to a good pumping winter!
See ya in June.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
|
Sweet photo of you & your girl, Tom. & Nice one of Justin bouldering.
Here's some recent photos of sunny times at Big Sleep and Crocodile.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2011 - 08:26pm PT
|
cool shadow boulderer
looks like V3
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2011 - 03:32pm PT
|
bump
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2011 - 04:41pm PT
|
Ah, sweet pics of sun on rock - knob dancing, shadows and all. Nice.
G,
Is all that white stuff still there?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2011 - 01:38am PT
|
Last Friday / Saturday's storm was much warmer and melted off all that snow and ice. Moved the snow line up to 6,500ft on the east side of the ridge. Higher on the west side. All the south facing crags are in great shape. Sunday / Monday, Leo and I hit Fallen Eagle's SE face and put up two new 400 foot routes and climbed some old ones. It was t shirt weather in the sun but when the shade rolled around we threw every layer on.
This weekend looks like a colder storm and then another one comes through around Thanksgiving.
NOAA forecast for Shuteye:
Thursday Night: A slight chance of rain showers between 10pm and 4am, then snow showers likely, possibly mixed with rain. Snow level 7400 feet. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 33. West northwest wind between 6 and 8 mph. Chance of precipitation is 60%. New snow accumulation of less than a half inch possible.
Friday: Snow showers. High near 36. Calm wind becoming west between 7 and 10 mph. Chance of precipitation is 80%. New snow accumulation of less than one inch possible.
Friday Night: Snow showers likely. Cloudy, with a low around 20. West northwest wind between 9 and 14 mph, with gusts as high as 20 mph. Chance of precipitation is 70%. New snow accumulation of less than one inch possible.
Saturday: A 20 percent chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 34.
Saturday Night: A 30 percent chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 22. Little or no snow accumulation expected.
Sunday: A slight chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 32.
Some pics from Fallen E...
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
|
Not to be the wet rag Nater but your neck of the woods is looking a bit nippy and has precip in the forecast, from the Pinnacles to the western Sierra. Its supposed to rain down here too. Still trying to mold plans for T-Giving weekend. And 'Join-The-Mass-Exodus Tree' will NOT be a option. The high country looks like it'll finally get its "Locked in for winter" snow coverage. Soooooo.....Shuteye is a shut down IMO, at least until next year. Snow mobile is on cement blocks at the time.
Hmmm....Red Rocks, with T-Giving buffet lines nearby.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2011 - 01:20pm PT
|
Screw the tree - it will be a zoo.
I'm thinking maybe eastside or indian wells canyon, or red rocks or?
Wish I wasn't busy with work or I'd take the whole week and head to cochise.
Can you guys bump a bunch of climbing threads and get the crap off the front pagte of the site? I did my duty yesterday...
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2011 - 08:15pm PT
|
Hahahaha!! Pissin' my trousers Kev!
Someone take Kev XMas shopping!
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
|
We freed Amen earlier this year when the snow was late leaving,
and on Memorial Day Dan and I did something possibly new
we called Hallelujah and ends up finishing on Amen.
Some shots:
Add: Also, another fun route we did is on the left a ways... Forget the rating... maybe 8, and another that we don't think was done before, a 5.7.
Add again: just remembered we also did something on the far right w/Mucci that was a quick blast, all crack and slab.
Then there are a few other old classics on the left face, spare on bolts.
Thanks Kev! What are you up to the next couple weekends? Tx too Tom and Nate.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2011 - 09:04pm PT
|
Nice job you two!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2011 - 09:26pm PT
|
The rise of Fallen Eagle.
Col pics guys.
Grahm those runnels look fun.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2011 - 10:47pm PT
|
Leo has probably touched more formations in SoYo than anyone. I'm voting for him for President!
Groovin' pics guys.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2011 - 08:45pm PT
|
Yup, Leo's been tromping around SoYo for decades. Climbing is relatively knew to him but he sure knows the area well. One of the best all around outdoors man I know. Search and rescue is lucky to have him. He probably has touched more walls than anyone, the only problem is getting him to remember! ;-)
Great pics, good to know you guys got the ball rolling out there around Amen and freed it already. We were heading that direction next. Our stuff is on the far left side. Awesome wall in a very cool setting.
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2011 - 12:08pm PT
|
Looked climbable from Well Barn Rd. are the gates still open?
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2011 - 04:24pm PT
|
very climbable...
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2011 - 10:28pm PT
|
Yes, incredible weather up on Wawona Dome yesterday
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2011 - 10:57pm PT
|
All by yourself, sooooo bitchin Jeffe!
This is the late season Push!
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2011 - 11:08pm PT
|
Awesome! Loved your route we did a few years back on that dome. That rib looks familiar. Never went back to do the tunnel through climb you put up. I forget the name but it sounded like a cool one.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 12:05am PT
|
Thanks all. Mony and I had a great day. Perfect temps up there.
Grahm, how can you forget Fatty Can't Fit? Lots to check out up there.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 12:05am PT
|
Ah nice fall colors...
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 02:54am PT
|
What Jeffrey? Not a hint of snow this last weekend?! Good for you guys. Enjoying your photos!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 04:02am PT
|
*like*
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 09:15am PT
|
Southern southern Yosemite also had good weather. Can anybody tell me if the gates in the Shuteye Region will close Decemeber 1st regardless of weather?
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 10:07am PT
|
I don't think there are any gates in Soyo. Well, maybe way up Minarets Rd. and down to Mammoth Pool. I suppose those are what you mean...
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 11:08am PT
|
morning climbers, it should be all good with open gates and roads to shuteye, was at cold springs summit chilkoot lake last weekend, road a bit icey in the morning, but the road was open, it's going to be great climbing weather for the next 10 days.
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 11:21am PT
|
I guess I should have just called SNF first, but I just did and the gates do close 12/1 regardless of weather. So unless your coming today or tommorrow you should probably call first (877-2218).
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 11:22am PT
|
Yep, there are some gates... on some of the best roads to paradise, not locked as of yet but once the snow gets going they will be.
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 11:57am PT
|
They will be closed thursday snow or not.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
|
Plenty to still climb on gate free roads.
Enjoyed your pics Mike and Jeff.
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 02:24pm PT
|
yes, chiquito dome is only at 4300 feet and an awesome place to climb.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2011 - 04:42am PT
|
Does anyone know anything about Fistfull of Dog Hairs or have a photo of the climb? Just curious to hear any stories about that impossible looking line.
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2011 - 09:44am PT
|
hi, yes it's on aerie dome on the left side, it goes at 13a, that dude cedar told me a couple years ago when i saw him at jail house he sent it, he said it took him a couple days to do it.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2011 - 02:07pm PT
|
Thanks Mike! Cedar Wright, then? Would be cool to see a close-up too and hear more about this OW.
|
|
mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
|
susu heres another pic i thought you might like of the nearby wall
yeh, that fistfull of doghairs looks quite wicked, hope someone posts a pic of cedar on it (upside down sideways)
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2011 - 07:58pm PT
|
I like that one, Dan. Shows the scale of the wall.
Hope you can dig up and share some more!
Any with your (then) baby girl up at Shuteye?
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2011 - 07:59pm PT
|
Beautiful shot Dan and stunning perspective! Plus can't see a belayer, rope or gear...? Is that photo of you on the FA? This area of rock is what I most wanted to climb when we first visited.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2011 - 08:14pm PT
|
Shoulda called it, "The Gaping Pharoah", based on that profile shot, Dan.
Looks like an Egyptian Pharoah with it's mouth open...
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
|
Nice route Dan! One of our favorites for sure...
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
|
|
|
mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
|
this is a route just down and left of main wall (climbing this year), yeh i wish i had taken more shots bitd on the fa's. i took the (va va va voom) shot a few days after we did fa (of wilbur on an early ascent)
next year i have to spend more time out there and take lots of pics
|
|
mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2011 - 10:19pm PT
|
sweet shots guys, hope urmas see's this
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Very nice photos... that route Sue is on looks great too. I don't see a rope? Still hope to see a photo post of Fistful of Dog Hairs but cannot find ours.
We only have a bumm shot of climbing in the area. Is this Va Va Va Voom or a neighboring route... ?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Ya Sue, Va Va Va Voom! Did you send? 5.9?
|
|
TFPU
Sport climber
Idaho
|
|
Is Va Va Va Voom a reference to King Crimson?
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Hah! 5.9 to you, mister! I did it with some doubt and freakiness making it over the lip of the roof... that was not this last summer but previous. I wasn't sure that we did VaVaVaVoom esp. after seeing Dan's shot which makes it look like a more blunt arete than my memory recalls from climbing there. Would have been nice to get photos from the same stunning vantage point instead of just another bumm shot. It was just John and I out there that day... Had a blast on that and somethings to the left, but there was some confusion about which direction to go, what bolts to follow in that area of climbs. Anyway, Beautiful up there! Wish we had gotten there this year.
You know what... I think that my photo is of Crack Attack not Va Va Va Voom!
|
|
fishtrap
Trad climber
Bass Lake, CA
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2011 - 11:35pm PT
|
Anyone out there have a topo for Crocodile rock that they would be willing to send my way? Climbed at Big Sleep today and then stopped by Crocodile Rock on the way back to the car. Ran up Crocodile Tears which is a beautiful crack but was wondering what all the steep bolted lines are to the right. Also wondering what the name of the formation is between Big Sleep and Crocodile?
Cheers,
|
|
mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
|
fishtrap, i was able to google crocodile rock and get topo online, check it out
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Dec 20, 2011 - 12:14am PT
|
Voodoo is the formation just right of Big Sleep.
Very cool you are climbing there this late, last season we climbed there on the weekend of Dec 4th.
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:06am PT
|
yes i put up a topo on rockclimbing.com
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
|
Dec 22, 2011 - 01:26pm PT
|
I hope people are still getting out. These are from last saturday or sunday i can't remember. Splitter 55 degree weather, walked out in the dark with a hoodie on!! Latest climbing season I've ever experienced in this area.
Matt
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Dec 25, 2011 - 08:26pm PT
|
Happy Holidays everyone!
Some pics from Christmas Eve out at Chilkoot Lake. We climbed some lines we hadn't been on before and put up a new "easy" 12a that turned out super good, on what else but the "Christmas Wall" :-) Didn't get any pics of that one yet though.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Dec 25, 2011 - 09:31pm PT
|
Y'all need to shut up about that place. It's gonna get overrun.
Awesome place, though....
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Dec 26, 2011 - 12:57pm PT
|
looks fun, but really, no one goes to chiltook, or shuteye area, i am my way to go play at the stuteye area this week, thw weather is great for this time of the year!
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
|
Dec 26, 2011 - 02:52pm PT
|
i put up a topo on rockclimbing.com Y'all need to shut up about that place
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
|
Dec 26, 2011 - 05:28pm PT
|
Instead of just topos - you could also post about the hordes of methheads in North Fork that attack any vehicle with Prana decals and especially target Subarus and Toyota FJ Cruisers!
Also, talk about how there is no beer or munchies for 45 miles either side of Shuteye - unless you count Jones Store - but they are closed more times than open. We'll keep Wagner's Store to ourselves okay.
If neither of those work in dissuading visitors, tell them that MADNET screens EVERY car that drives up Beasore for the presence of marijuana residue.
Otherwise, just drop a few Doug firs across the road.
;)
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Dec 27, 2011 - 11:37am PT
|
Was that you blocking the road a few weeks ago? ;-) ...
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Shuteye sunset last night... Happy New Year!
|
|
hairyapeman
Trad climber
Fres-yes
|
|
Anyone ever do stuff on Balloon dome?
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
amy and i went out there sept of 2010,we saw on one the 4 days out there, we only went to the base to scope out things, to do a route there in one day would be a tuff day of hiking and climbing, almost 10 miles to the base of the dome from the trailhead. some dude's post on supertopos a couple years ago a climbing day trip they did to balloon dome. i want to go back, but hang out there for a few day's with a bunch of people to help bring gear and ropes, and we could share gear and ropes to climb a route or two there. the swimming holes and camping sites at the cassidy bright are amazing. it would be a great place to make base camp. there is some info on balloon dome in the old southern yomesite guide book, and if you look around the inernet one can found info as well.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
For Balloon, look at the AAJ in the last 5 years for some new route info reports by Sean Jones and Brandon Thau. Serious adventure.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Just a heads up to route developers (who use bolts).
Matt turned me on to a great deal for stainless bolts. Hilti 3/8 by 3". for only .29 cents ea!
I bought a bunch to check them out earlier this year and they are one of the best SS bolts I have used.
They bought a pallet of them a year ago at salvage pricing and only have 62 boxes left. From over 400 last year.
I bought enough to hold me over for a while because who knows when a SS deal like this will be around again. Steel keeps going up and up.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HILTI-3-8-x-3-ANCHOR-BOLT-KB3-SS304-50-PCS-NEW-BOX-/200639243073?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eb707e341
or Call Brent at 1-616-887-3572
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
|
|
I just bought 400 and am planning on going out and grid bolting all of southern yosemite with my brand new hilti stainless bolts every 6 feet.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
;-D
Dude, don't make them so run out!
|
|
Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
3" is too long for hand drilling in granite.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Agreed, but just right for power drilling on roofs. :-)
Recent FA of "Roll the Dice" 12c
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Classic line Grahm, one of the best.
|
|
Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
|
|
three roofs, sweet!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
I just bought 400 and am planning on going out and grid bolting all of southern yosemite with my brand new hilti stainless bolts every 6 feet.
buahahaha
Need a shovel for that kind of bs'ing
:)
btw, is the road to big sleep still open?
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
i was thinking the samething, going to shuteye this weekend while the weather is great, but if the gate to big sleep is not open, can always go the chiquito dome, gray eagle, fallen eagle, not sure where i want to climb this weekend.
|
|
sneville
climber
|
|
Mike,
I heard the road to grey was closed. Big sleep might be closed also. Susu would know? What is the situation up there?
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
hi, i was there last wednesday and thursday, and it felt like spring climbing, yeh you are most likely right about the gates, i think most of them close on nov 1st no matter if there is snow or not, but still can get to chilkoot and fresno dome.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
roads or no roads, bolts or no bolts, the rocks are definitely all in prime condition.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
the rocks are definitely all in prime condition...
The hills are alive with the sound of "music".......dare I imagine it off key?*
* anyone got a tuning fork?
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
lol
now I get it. Tuning Fork. Sorry Mooch. Lagging today.:)
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Things could have changed but this is what I have found lately...
Beasore to Chilkoot Lake - open
Beasore to Central Camp and High Eagle - Open
Beasore to Grizzly and Lost Eagle - Open
North Fork to Cascadel and Big Sleep - Open
Mammoth Pool Rd to 7so2 and Big Sleep was locked a few weeks ago.
The road to Gray Eagle was locked a few weeks ago, but not that far to walk to Fallen E from there.
Mammoth Pool Rd to Chiquito Dome lower parking - Open
Mammoth Pool Rd to Grizzly - Locked
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Shuteye January 8, 2012.
Less snow now than there was in November.
The season keeps on giving...
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Nice coat hangers.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Nate, I like that... coat hangers.
The second pitch was a rodeo.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Meaning a lasso frenzy, or you got bucked off?
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
nothing but flingin' slings
Sling Flinger... good route name
|
|
Camahoo
Trad climber
Shaver Springs
|
|
This winter sucks.
|
|
Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
3" is too long for hand drilling in granite. Agreed, but just right for power drilling on roofs. :-) Ground up on lead? Awesome if so.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
We didn't need any... 400' on knobs and gear! stoked!
Did use some on a fun .10c slab though.
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
That stuff looks super fun, where those climbs, i want check that out.the weather is still looking great for the next week!!! wow!!!
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
nice stuff Tom. Good you're getting up there.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
Need to get out.....someone ping me.
All work and no play makes Tiki an angry boy!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
Yeah you guys gotta get out there and capitalize on the temps and no snow... (maybe you are!?) even though the days are short. I make up for it by bringing amenities like a thermos of coffee, some beers for later, a big fat sub sandwich, and then eat like there is no tomorrow on the way home.
It works out about even.
|
|
Ol' Skool
Trad climber
Oakhurst, CA
|
|
Anybody spontaneous enough for tomorrow?
Planning on going up- if so, lemme' know...
Bruce
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2012 - 11:21am PT
|
Trad is rad.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2012 - 12:14pm PT
|
JR -
Please hold his feet to the fire as a favor for me! Ger likes to flake from time to time..... ;)
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
|
Okay, soyo thread that was my post limit for another 6 months.
HAHAHA!! You sir, are well disciplined.
Jealous! And Big Cam will be there too. Double Damn!
Will be climbing Feather Couloir this weekend (by request from the "Commanding Officer").
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
|
No worries JR, we'll post for you
f*#kin' Slater
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
|
Jer - even if you don't post, we know you'll be lurking...
GO GER - get OUT there!
|
|
Camahoo
Trad climber
Shaver Springs
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
|
I'm down for saturday. Not only in spirit but in body.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
|
Trip Report for Jan 14th.
So plans changed at the last minute and I ended up hooking up with Jeremy and crew at North Fork in the morning. And, who was there but TIKI-Jer! Woohoo, he made it out before the season ends. I was stoked to play tour guide for him.
Jer and I bombed up the road in the Jeep and hoofed it up to the Eagle Beaks. Jeremy had to go pick up a friend and would meet us later. First we hit Ahria Wall and a nice splitter crack for our warm up.
Jer tried to onsight it for the second ascent but he was feeling it from the long approach and the steep jams got him. So he lowered off a cam and I gave it a burn and then Jer toproped it for fun and did really well.
Next we hit South Eagle for an FA on a long face I was hoping would go with no bolts. I wanted to get on it all summer but it never came together. Jer was game and we searched out an approach and went for it with just slings and cams.
A stiff 10a traverse into the dihedral lead to easier climbing and a big ledge. A short scramble behind the ledge and a perfect little belay chair boulder made a comfy spot to bring Jer up. P2 A spicy reach over the void to some knobs lead to a huge wall covered in Coral Reef knobs.
Awesome views and fun climbing for 500 feet.
One more pitch to the top!
We found this old tree that was strangled to death from webbing near the summit.
The walk off is easy but a bit spicy at this one point where a slip could send you free falling.
We walked back down to the Jungle Gym Wall and I pointed out all the other walls to Jer on the way back. He seemed a little overwhelmed by all the rock up there. :-)
Finally we met back up with Jeremy. Jer tried to onsight Jeremys steep knobby climb up the middle of the face. Jer started getting pumped and with some encouragement charged for the anchors. A slip of the foot and he was airborne at the last bolt for a nice sport climb fall. Earlier Cam was struggling with the same route and yelled down "This route isn't 5.9!!!". I yelled back "Thats cause its 5.8!" :-)
Jeremy then onsighted my route to the right for the second ascent as the sun was setting.
Finally Camahoo's dog said it was time to go.
We hiked out by headlamp and she was not happy going down the steep descent. At one point while Cam was trying to guide her down the trail his legs got tripped up and he took a full on header and almost went down into a chasm. Yikes!
After the hiking crux it was smooth sailing back to the car. Jer headed straight home and then it was time for Jeremys famed "Fiesta Chicken" pizza at Pizza Factory and a pitcher of Shock Top beer.
Looks like the season is finally over with a big storm coming in. This was the longest winter season for climbing I have ever seen. I was glad to be able to get out, finish up some projects, do more research, and get pics for the guide book. Looking forward to snowmobile season!
The Tahoe snow report shows what we may be in for...
http://unofficialnetworks.com/tahoe-start-recovering-snow-67415/
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
|
Great to see pics of the Tiki-man pulling down!
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2012 - 10:35am PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2012 - 10:39am PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2012 - 10:41am PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2012 - 10:45am PT
|
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2012 - 11:17am PT
|
Nice Mike!
The 10c is by Urmas and Hunter. They plan to take it to the top.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
|
Nice looking pics all! Plans had us on the east side yearning for ice in The Portal. Unfortunately, Deb hurt her back the night prior to us getting out to the ice. We settled for a casual day in Alabama Hills. The following shots are NOT a "thread hijack" attempt :) sorry for the poor resolution :P
Blair Nicodemus making the initial crux moves on 'My Little Lab Rat' (.10b), a route that Brutus and I put up a few year back....
More fun with Blair (to the left of Blair is a route called 'Stem Cell Research' (.10a), FA. Mooch and Brutus
The Penguins and the A-Hills landscape...
Side note.....those slings you guys found.....was that on or at the top of the route of Coral Rock? An FA or no?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
|
That route looks sweet!
We were actually on South Eagle Beak and the route is most likely a FA called Coral Reef on the south face. The slings were found on the descent near the top of Beagle Creeks on the south west face that was put up in 1982.
We also found an old fuel canister that was rusted out on top of the dome. Cool relics.
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
|
Spent the weekend up on Wamello with teenage friend Zev Underwood for some sport yo-yos and his first multi-pitch routes. Nights were a bit brutal camped up there, and Sunday on the South Pillar it was down jackets in the direct sun.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
|
Good to see the beaks in 2012. What a winter. Yeah tiki, glad u made it up there.
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
|
Hey thanks Justin and Nate......I am glad I went on Saturday cause at times it was T-shirt weather.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
|
At what moment did Ger get pumped? Did he swear? Was he wearing the right shoes for the climb? Was the drill weighing him down?
Curious.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
|
I went up Jan. 18, it was t-shirt weather. I carried two jackets but they stayed in the pack. Beautiful day! Just me and Syd, she dug it. She especially liked the woodpeckers bangin' away overhead! I got in about 5 routes and called it a day. Just nice to be up there in mid-January!
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
|
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
|
So.....bottom line, it was a fun climbing day for all and you took photos along the way?
Tough for an old guy to sift through all of the details, ya know. ;)
And for the record......Ger cusses in Dutch.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
|
Hey JR is it raining/snowing up your way yet?
Nothing here. I think they pumped this storm up and I am just curious if it's gonna pan out. They said 40% rain yesterday but we didn't get a drop.
Mike A - that frozen waterfall is gnarly. I saw plenty of old snow fields that that had melted and compacted and were ice rink material.
Here is a shot of some Shuteye training with the kids...
gotta teach 'em young...
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2012 - 02:46pm PT
|
that's what I told her when she started to whine...
;)
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2012 - 11:47am PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2012 - 11:49am PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2012 - 09:24am PT
|
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
|
I get the feeling snowmobile photos are in the near future...
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
I get the feeling snowmobile photos are in the near future...
Waiting with bated breath.....will those be posted on the cover of the upcoming guide or will they be extras for us to pour over, located on pages 400 thru 557??
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Feb 29, 2012 - 01:29am PT
|
Still enjoying the endless summer...
might even be able to climb every month and complete the cycle!
We'll see what March and April and May hold.
Hope you're all having fun!
edit 3/2/12 - 18 days till spring!
|
|
rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
|
May 15, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
|
Snow's all gone...time to climb.
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
May 15, 2012 - 02:35pm PT
|
last weekend, did the loop,and climbed at shuteye,road is open, lots of down trees, shuteye is open, fresno dome open, chilkoot open, gray eagle open, big sleep open, saw no climbers, only a couple campers, amazing weather :-), maybe some of the shuteye reg's want to buy a guide book, ha ha :-), happy climbing youall, love and xxx's mike a.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
May 15, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
|
Whether romping in shadow,
or baking in sun,
Indeed it is time
for renegade fun.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
May 18, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
|
Wut up JR? Save me a "good spot".....heading up there next month (damn those other responsibilities! Arggg!)
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
|
May 19, 2012 - 09:01am PT
|
I can attest to the fact that not only does Jeremy know the secret spots, he knows the secret ways to get to the secret spots!
|
|
Rich the Brit
Trad climber
San Ramon, CA
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2012 - 11:11am PT
|
A little help please from soyo regulars...
I have climbed at Fresno dome a few times, but never in the wider soyo area,
I recently drove the scenic byway to scout climbs and approach routes in Southern Yosemite, e.g. Squaw, Balls, Shuteye, etc. So much rock, and so few people on a holiday weekend. I was amazed. I have a couple of trips planned their this summer, and have booked the Rock Creek campstie for the 1st one.
I quite fancy Afternoon Nap on Big Sleep Dome as an intro route. I drove the 7 mile forest road from above the Rock Creek turnout, and found Big Sleep Dome. I hiked towards the dome from that road to the big granite slab, and noticed that there was Green Jeep Liberty parked on the slab itself. There was a dirt road traversing the hillside above the slab, but I couldn't figure out where it joined the main dirt road off the highway. It looked like a great place to camp.
My questions:
1) Is the turnoff for the dirt road to the slab before or after the slab itself as your drive from Rock Creek?
2) Do you need high clearance 4wd for this side road. I have new style Outback, which had no problems on the 7 mile road, but some of the side roads I expolred were pretty rough (thankyou to whoever chainsawed their way through logs blocking the road)?
3) What other routes in the 5.7 to 5.9 range would anyone recommend on either Big Sleep, elsewhere on Shuteye or anywhere nearby (I have the Spence Book of Lies, the recent mini guide, and Slater's Road Trip). If it helps with recommendations, I don't mind a little bit of adventure; I am comforatble to South Crack style runouts and tie-offs for runners.
Thanks,
Rich
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
|
morning, i posted stuff on the big sleep/shuteye/fresno dome area's on rockclimbing.com, this should help you out, happy climbing mike a.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Jun 22, 2012 - 02:31am PT
|
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Jun 25, 2012 - 06:57pm PT
|
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jun 25, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
|
Good on ya, Tom.
Dan - I recognize a few of those fine folks.
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Jun 25, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
|
|
|
yosguns
climber
Durham, NC
|
|
|
Jun 26, 2012 - 12:45am PT
|
Aw! Wish I could've been there this year, but glad drc made it. Looks like great fun was had by all!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 26, 2012 - 09:37am PT
|
Great to see so many friends out there having a great time. Whens the next party?
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Jun 26, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
|
jeff , next one's at high eagle? and there's going to be a 4x4 rescue practice, where gable pulls us out of the ditch with his super proud unstoppable van
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Jun 26, 2012 - 02:36pm PT
|
gable pulls us out of the ditch with his super proud unstoppable van
Funny it's unstoppable until it hits Cochise where it doesn't fair quite as well. That van does kick ass though.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Jun 26, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
|
Great to see everyone this weekend! Thanks for making it such a memorable event! We had a blast with so much comic relief! Missed some folks, but there will be more opportunities this summer. Cool shots Dan! Some more pics:
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Jun 29, 2012 - 01:31am PT
|
Happy birthday John!!
met quite a few folks at the base of gray eagle Sunday!! Cool to see people up there!!
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Jun 29, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
|
Mooch,
Who's next in line for a decade bday?
Maybe it's 'Mucci's Dirty Thirty' - he's still a kid right?
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Jun 29, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
|
count me in guys!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Sweeeet shot!
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
Dan.....that shot of Susu....was that on Minerva?
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Thanks for the post, Dan - you sure captured the peak sunset color that day!
Mooch, this is a climb at Magic Wall near Chilkoot Lake towards the top of the ridge.
Matt, thanks for the bday wish for John.
|
|
wilbeer
Mountain climber
rochester,ny
|
|
dan,thats some photography,shuteye,what an area,im totally jealous. terry
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Another nice shot Dan. Was a great day out at Gray.
|
|
Rich the Brit
Trad climber
San Ramon, CA
|
|
A short TR from this weekend...my first climbing trip along Minarets Road
We camped at Rock Creek, and climbed on Big Sleep (Afternoon Nap, 5.7) and Squaw Dome (West Face, 5.6 in old Spencer guide).
We thought both routes were quality. West Face on Squaw Dome was exceptionally good, with very little beta available except in the Spencer guide. Route is 3 pitches, pro to 3 inch. 2 pitches of flakes, 1 pitch with a travers followed 60 feet of slabby face on small knobs. It felt like 5.7, and last pitch is run out. Suprising to find a welcome bolt belay at top of second pitch given the lack of traffic on this route. 1 x 50 ft rap off the summit to get to the gap between Squaw Dome and it's lower neighbor to the south.
Rich
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Cool, Rich.
It is possible to walk off the top of Squaw with some care. Although I haven't climbed the West Face route yet, I don't know if you looked at it, but Snake Crack to the left is pretty classic.
These routes are occasionally guided, hence the replaced hardware.
|
|
Rich the Brit
Trad climber
San Ramon, CA
|
|
Nate
Didn't take a look at Snake Crack. I was tempted, but I must admit that I was a little concerned as to what the 5.9 move would be like, given that a) the information in the Spencer guide is approaching 30 years old, b) 5.9 is about my limit, and c) no information on the current state of the bolt that I believe protects the crux.
Your picture looks great. Could you share some more info on Snake Crack - might have a go next time we ar there?
Also, I noticed that there were biners left on the hangers at top of 2nd pitch. I wonder if guides rap off after 2 pitches, or whether more timid leaders have backed off.
There is also a mast on the summit and some exposed rebar. We didn't take a close look, but intrigued as to what it is doing there.
Thanks,
Rich
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Rich,
The 5.9 on Snake Crack is really only 5.8, or arguably 5.7, for a couple slab moves traversing to the first belay. The route is also more easily done in 3 pitches than I think the 5 very short pitches noted in Spencer. P. 1 is a nice flake. P.2 is the wonderful crack, probably 5.7, small/micro cams coming in handy I recall for the p.2 belay at the end of the long splitter. The last pitch is long and runout heading straight up over an overlap to slab, but we are talking runout on 5.4ish terrain.
Saw the rebar, but no idea why it's there. The dome is now officially called Piyau Dome. See: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=779298&msg=1626531#msg1626531
earlier in the thread for a few links Dan shared.
Any pics to share of the West Face?
|
|
Rich the Brit
Trad climber
San Ramon, CA
|
|
|
Jul 10, 2012 - 02:15am PT
|
No pics I am afraid. Left the camera in the car. I was very suprised to find so little info on the web on our return. If I had known, I would have taken some pics to encourage more people to climb this quality line.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
|
|
|
Jul 10, 2012 - 02:36am PT
|
mmm, so yo.
I'm so converted.
|
|
Banquo
climber
Amerricka
|
|
|
Jul 10, 2012 - 11:59am PT
|
Lots of the domes out there have or had what I think were survey markers on the top. I've seen them on top of several of the Balls and Jackass Butte. The one on jackass Butte still has a section of steel pipe and some galvanized panels. People have used the panels as a register with dates going back to 1926. My dad used to work for USGS and set these up for triangulation. His were built out of wood with red or orange cloth panels.
My belief is that for some reason a very accurate survey was done in this area. I think there was a proposal for a trans sierra highway around 1910.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
|
|
|
Jul 10, 2012 - 12:40pm PT
|
imagine that, a highway from Oakhurst to Mammoth Lakes.
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 10, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
|
back in the 60's there were plans to build such a road, but after at the time gov. regan did a 5 day camping trip from beasore meadows to the valley, guided by jonhy a. jones of the jones store. after that trip regan saw what an amazing place it was, he had the plans scrapped to protect the land.
|
|
wilbeer
Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny,sawdust does not work like chalk
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
|
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
|
Shuteye is bathed in beauty, perfect rock, and seclusion. Let's enjoy it, but keep it that way.
It is a gem!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2012 - 10:00am PT
|
This thread has been lacking this year, gotta get a new camera.
Had a great time out there last weekend. Perfect temps in the shade of Gray. Was great to see some friends out there for a few. The new line they are working on looks cool.
Finished a new pitch also, 10c or so, very fun.
Maybe this weekend????
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
|
tork, you do need to go get a camera! otherwise guys like me will keep putting the same ol' shots on here
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
|
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
|
Sully, good chance we will go out there this sun and mon if you want to come camp out with us and a few other folks.
Dan we love your pics. We want more!
Yours too mike
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2012 - 09:06am PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2012 - 09:09am PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2012 - 09:10am PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2012 - 09:11am PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2012 - 09:12am PT
|
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2012 - 11:56am PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 20, 2012 - 11:03am PT
|
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 12:21am PT
|
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 12:41am PT
|
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 12:51am PT
|
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 12:57am PT
|
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:01am PT
|
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:07am PT
|
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:12am PT
|
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:16am PT
|
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:21am PT
|
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:24am PT
|
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:52am PT
|
had to take a look down in here on the drive out, thinking of my ol' friend walt. walt, chris shackleton and i hiked in from near the bridge at the top of the dam, and ran the "tied for first" class V whitewater run, many years ago(this was my first visit to so yo). seven miles of seriously good fun.
run gets it name because royal robbins buddies reg lake, newsome holmes, doug tompkins were planning to do the first decent at the same time as richard montgomery, bob porter, and jerry kauffmann. it started off quite competitively but they all came together in the end, and boated as a team to the takeout
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:58am PT
|
That French Trail view is so crazy. Respect for even just having a look.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 09:53am PT
|
Looks like you had another great weekend Dan. I was up at Gray with friends, lots of action going on up there. I got a new line up there for you to check out. Thanks for the pics!
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 10:13am PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 10:15am PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 10:16am PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 10:54am PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 10:59am PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 10:59am PT
|
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
|
Dan, nice hike! Appreciate the pics of the Buttes and Balloon.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
|
FRIDAY Night
Jeremy: "Looking like I don't have a partner partner tomorrow, which do you prefer power dome or shuteye?
Dipshit: "I'm down for whatever, (Tolsar reference) Nawmeen?(Mooch reference)
Jeremy: "Sheet me too. OMG I'll KIT.
Jeremy: "I guess hit me up in the am and we'll figure it out."
Dipshit: "Word"(Wu tang reference or any rapper for that matter)
SATURDAY Morning (am) around 9
Jeremy: "Damn Dawg u still asleep?
Dipshit: "LOL. I thought you were going to hit me up. Now looking at the text message, I see I was supposed tohit you up. Shuteye?
Jeremy: "Sure where?
Dipshit: "What do you think?
Jeremy: "I don't know can't decide, got any ideas?
Dipshit: "Sh#t I don't know either."
Jeremy: " Sheet."
30 minutes later....
Jeremy: "Damn I want to climb just can't decide where."
Dipshit: "Watchtower?"
Jeremy: "It's cool up there but goes from like 10a to 12b I think. Squaw Dome?"
Dipshit: "Squaw sounds cool, Snake Crack?"
Jeremy: "Yuuuup. Sounds cool, let's do it"
Great Route though we both wished it was longer. Good pics mikea and Mctwisted.
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
|
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
|
Good choice, TJI. Indeed, most do wish it was longer!
Run out of gear for the anchor anyone?
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2012 - 01:25am PT
|
Yeah Nate that's a good one, sportiva #3=bomber.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2012 - 02:45am PT
|
Middle Fork side of Balloon Dome looks to be the best.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2012 - 02:51am PT
|
The approach shoes would have been even more bomber, but alas, we forgot 'em and boy oh boy did our feet pay dearly on the slabby walk off from BofR.
Thanks for sharing the pics and kayaking history bit, Dan.
Mike, you've truly gotta stop having so much fun. I just can't wait for you to describe a climb as a "terror", "thrutch", "suffer-fest" or a "full blown slog". :)
And what's this about lots of activity at Grey? Are there now sit starts to all those fine routes?
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2012 - 12:46pm PT
|
After work yesterday
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
|
looks like dream scape dome.
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2012 - 03:38pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2012 - 03:41pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
|
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
|
bait an switch Justin?
"Nawmeen?" - mooched by Mooch from Dingus
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2012 - 09:16pm PT
|
Haha. I didn't realize dingus was the original nawmeener. Now I nawyoumeen, Nawmeen? You been up this way yet this year, dave?
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
|
:) I was up there for John's birthday weekend, about a month ago. I may come up in a few weeks....hoping Tiki can break away from The Man and join up with you and J. Tear up The Eye!
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2012 - 11:40pm PT
|
Sounds good, haven't seen Gerry in almost a year. Let me know what days. Laters. Nawmeen.
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2012 - 04:35pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2012 - 04:38pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2012 - 04:40pm PT
|
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
|
Mike A -
as per Gray Eagle, looks like you're on 'Intrepid Voyage'
as per Lost Eagle, that super super fun 5.9 is 'Three Feathers'.....an area classic.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
2 thumbs way up on that shot!
Viva la saturation.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
What is the propane tank used for?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
thanks Dan!
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
|
Jeremy that's my nut tool.
Some Bouldering pics to kill the crickets
Hopefully some others will add some pics.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
|
Sweet pics, cracklin' boulders never get old.
Let's back up from those nuggets for a sec. See that there teensy 'lil ridge in the distance? Not a lot of rock, eh?
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
|
Here's one from TJI
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
|
nice pics justin, my daughter would love those boulders, are they near this boulder? (on top of 557 dome)
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
|
Nate is that from atop jackass? If so how is jackass?
Sh#t yeah Ludwig!
Those boulders are close to shuteye pass. Between the pass and runnel vision.
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
|
I think you or your brother took the picture, I failed that day but returned with my dog and my wife and did it this summer!
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
|
Glad you got back up there and got it, fun top out.
Be up there this weekend if you wanna come up Kevin.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2012 - 12:10am PT
|
I'm a big fan of bouldering...
OK that was my post for the summer.
Later
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2012 - 01:25am PT
|
Da Balls, TJI.
Ger has been atop Jackass and there's a beauty big boulder perched up there.
Nice one Slater. Fall is just about here.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2012 - 01:53am PT
|
this just in, sick photos. I'd only darken them a little ( http://pixlr.com/editor/ ). Seems like alot of digital cameras are default over-exposed for some reason. Sun is darker in China IDK?
|
|
S cole
Social climber
Urban hell
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2012 - 01:49pm PT
|
If you only post once a summer, that's a good one to go with Slater
|
|
Banquo
climber
Amerricka
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2012 - 05:23pm PT
|
Sometimes we find fun/easy cracks
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2012 - 07:41pm PT
|
Indeed. Can't complain about finding fun/easy cracks, even with a long approach.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
|
Nice pix all! You Break It You Buy It, is a killer solo and FA. Nice job Jeremy. Since your so photogenic here's a couple more of you.
and another random shot...
Tork master at play...
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Sep 18, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
|
JR - The White-headed Woodpecker is a non-migratory woodpecker that resides in pine forests of the mountains of western North America. It has a black body and white head. It has white primary feathers that form a crescent in flight.
Jeremy, hope you found the pecker you were looking for!
You left your sports bra in my truck...
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Sep 18, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
|
just right
By the way you drive backwards really really well, surprised you didn't crash into a tree (and thanks for NOT hitting the breaks)
Ricky Bobby would be proud.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Sep 18, 2012 - 03:14pm PT
|
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Sep 18, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
|
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Sep 23, 2012 - 05:04pm PT
|
Jim Thornburg and Matt Schutz hiking in for the FA of our 5 pitch route, Taipan Rising on Electric Eagle Dome.
Pitch 4
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Sep 23, 2012 - 07:33pm PT
|
bump for electric
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Sep 23, 2012 - 07:55pm PT
|
Sh#t yeah Grahm. Looks like no run ins with wasps. They're mean this year, I got hit three times last weekend. Slater was the only one to escape their wrath.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Sep 25, 2012 - 11:09am PT
|
Yaaaaaaaaaaaaah!
I know you guys got more.
Working on a new route just below Electric, 4 pitches so far. Inspection Pending
|
|
tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
|
|
|
Sep 25, 2012 - 11:16am PT
|
Tork......is it go up that"California Coastline" feature?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Sep 25, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
|
Awesome Jeff! Your routes are fun.
Great that Electric area is getting some love these days. We hiked out that abandoned 400 foot static line that was hanging down the wall for 6 years and some other abandoned stuff. Anyone missing their 90's cassette boom box? :-)
Looking forward to trying your new one Jeff. Keep us posted when its ready to go!
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Sep 25, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
|
Cool Pix.
Patner and I combined were stung over 40 times at the base of a new route on owl wall.
So desperate as we were on a 4th class ledge.
Fastest down monkeying I have ever done.
Got EFFING SNAKED ON THE FA the next day!!!!!
Good thing as we were never, EVER going back.
The route name is BEE TREE.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Josh, I hope the stings are feeling a lot better, what an epic.
Grahm, what's the new line go at? How about a few more pics for a better look???
Never found out who stole the hanger off my route. Also never found out who killed the plant on the first pitch that I easily avoided on the FA.
The only solution to those problems and other real problems is to look on The Brighter Side
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
super fun looking route and cool topo, but where is this climb, maybe gold eagle/electric eagle??? hook up a bro thanks.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Mike, the route is across from Gray and below Electric
Jeff
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
cool thanks i will check it out, thats the owl wall right???
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
|
|
I'll never do it. I'm afraid of Cave Trolls. ;)
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
Cool share. I look forward to eventually seeing what other multipitch stuff is on that wall.
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
good job jeff and mony , thanks for the topo. can't wait to do it
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Thanks all
The route is very fun but with a few runouts in easier terrain. Also those that know me well, know what special gear to bring(think pink). Otherwise a singles rack to a #3 C4 and a lot of slings.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Looks like a little bit of everything tork. Thanks for sharing the topo, any action shots of the climb?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Hell ya, looks awesome! Great work you two, and awesome topos.
Those two deep caves on the ledge are super cool. Some crazy bouldering potential in there possibly.
Too funny on the name. Matt and I already named a route "Bright Side of Life" earlier this year on Gray. We told you about it when we were climbing on Thunderstruck together. It probably knocked around in your brain and then came out again. :-) We named ours after the Life of Brian movie. If you know the movie, you know the last song... always look on the bright side of life (then the whistling part) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHPOzQzk9Qo
We were thinking it would be fun to keep the Monty Python theme going on other routes nearby.
Our route "Taipan Rising" on Electric goes at only 11a (we were pleasantly surprised). Theres one pitch that has a little aid (french free on bolts) to get past a possible 5.13 dyno section that may go free someday. But, the rest is all free at 11a. I am working on the topo and description now for the guide. Jim T took some amazing shots, but they are not mine to share. :-( He has to make a living somehow. :-) Maybe he will post some of his throw away shots. (still bitchin)
Here's the rest of mine, not really that helpful for showing the route but...
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Sorry, no pics. Gotta get a camera.
Wow Grahm, 11a! Cool!
Do you have routes off that ledge? There were a couple of routes that we could tell had been done. We used a 2 bolt anchor that was already there for the belayer on pitch 4. It would be easy for someone to miss our 4th and get on this other route instead. Our 4th starts about 30' left and a bit down from the existing 2 bolt anchor. The first route just left looks good. You can see a couple of bolts above after a steep crack ends.
My zombie plan is to hole up in there.
As far as the name??? Not sure if you got it in my head??? It is mostly due to a lot of the sh#t talking and other acts that has been going on for the past couple of seasons out there that has really gotten me down. I think that when I walked past my route at Gray with the stolen hanger I started thinking about all of it and started getting angrey, then said fuc it lets go climb that line over there in the sun.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
We were in the exact same head space when we named ours! Nothing like climbing a great new route to cheer you up and see whats important.
Those other routes aren't mine. I was just checking them out and saw the caves. Ya, zombies would have a hard time finding you there. The Walking Dead have a tough time climbing 10b. But, for some tasty brains they will try. :-)
Dan asked me to draw Taipan Rising on his photo and post it. So here it is. Obviously my publisher would prefer I not post up the finished topos and route descriptions with the guide coming out soon (your new route will make it in). But, this will get you guys up the route if your getting on it in the next few weeks.
Bring gear to 2" for the mixed first pitch. Theres two bolts at the start. Most will want to stick clip the first bolt. After P1 its just bolts for pro, with the occasional knob sling up higher on the route. All bolted belays. Edit - Bring 17 draws for P3 and be willing to pull on draws to reach jugs and then the next bolt for the easy A0 part.
Found these photos from last year, October 5th. brrr
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
11a up that stunning overhanging wall?? Wowzers!
Please
don't
show
snow...
yet.
:)
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
|
|
Is it possible to break thru the overhangs on the left side?
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
thanks grahm, wow, now with torks route as a start a guy could do a 10 pitch route at 11a, on some of the finest rock on the planet, sweet.
munge, there are a few routes out the cave at the bottom, then following black streaks, that jones and ketron did (5.12). and i think theres one left of the cave also, that wilber did, thats perhaps 11-, that goes to the top (ill try and get some details)
also ketron and i put up a great route a fair bit to the right of the one shown in the pic thats 4 pitches at 12a
grahm put an order in for me, i need that guidebook
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
I owe YOU, and some others folks one for all the route names and beta shared on their routes. Lookin forward to getting it in your hands.
You crazy "El Portalien's" put up some sweet climbs. hehe, Brian said it was 11d, but I bet 12a is more accurate. That last pitch you guys did looks insane!
Don't forget Sharma and Sean's 13c through that roof too! The one to the far left is called Glory Balls 11b.
Good call on linking the routes together. That would be an amazing day of climbing some sweet Shuteye stone.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Is Dan being a sandbagger again?
That face is so incredible!
|
|
Kurt Jensen
Trad climber
Aptos,CA
|
|
|
Oct 17, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
|
Hi Southern Yosemite crew...
I just made my first trip there recently and got three great days in,
High Eagle, Shangri La, and South Eagle Beak area.
Grahm, thanks for showing everybody around and helping us find our way to some really fun routes!
I'm headed out there tomorrow, planning to camp up by High Eagle in my red Tacoma.
I've got through Monday morning and need some info on routes.
I've got Slater's book, and think we'll hit 557's/High Eagle/Shangri La.
We've got time for more...any recomendations? GF is 5.9 to 5.10b climber, me a bit higher, but 11and under suits us. Grahm, you climbing this weekend?
Maybe a trip to S. Eagle beak again if I can remember the road to turn on...
I'd love some help on route info and such, or to meet up if anyone's out climbing somewhere fun.
I sure loved what I climbed on my first visit, and am looking forward to sharing it with my girlfriend and camping out up there before the season changes to Grahm snowmobiling around :-)
Kurt
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Oct 17, 2012 - 07:34pm PT
|
Sh#t yeah Kurt. Glad you enjoyed the area and are coming back for more. If you're camping in high eagle area, go check out dreamscape. It's about a half hour walk from camp. Send graham an email and he will share the route info. Some great moderates and I believe up to 13. Saturday or Sunday, I will probably be up on the south side and wouldn't mind showing you crocodile. Email me if you want to, maybe grahm would be down too. Regardless have a great weekend.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 17, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
|
If you also like trad multi-pitch, make the drive to check out the east side of the ridge - Grey Eagle area in particular. You won't be disappointed.
Half the fun of Shuteye and beyond is having little info and just hiking up to stuff, sussing out what's there, and climbing it.
But if you stay centered around High Eagle, Dreamscape isn't far from camp, and rumor has it, holds some dandy moderate knob romps and some steeper challenges. :)
I think this may have been edited down (certainly fewer pics and no more Crocodile topo), but here's an article Slater wrote for Climbing, covering some of the southern end of the ridge:
http://www.climbing.com/route/wake-up-call/
EDIT: Whoa, Justin, a true blood local, beat me to some of the same recommendations!
|
|
Kurt Jensen
Trad climber
Aptos,CA
|
|
|
Oct 17, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
|
Thanks guys. I'd be intersted in info on Dreamscape and 557's since we'll camp close.
We could move camp to join someone further SE from there for a day too. Sounds great!
I'd love to get back up to that S. Eagle Beak area too! I'm so excited to get back out there again...
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
|
A powerful storm system will press into the West Coast early Monday bringing cold and wet weather to the region, as well as the first significant snow of the season. The Sierra Nevada Range is forecast to receive up to 18 inches of snow at the higher elevations. Yosemite National Park could see 8 inches of snow. Winter Storm Warnings and Winter Weather Advisories are in effect across the area.
WEST SLOPE NORTHERN SIERRA NEVADA-
240 PM PDT SUN OCT 21 2012
...WINTER STORM WARNING REMAINS IN EFFECT FROM 11 PM THIS EVENING
TO 5 AM PDT TUESDAY ABOVE 5500 FEET...
* SNOW ACCUMULATIONS: 6 TO 12 INCHES WITH LOCAL ACCUMULATIONS OF
18 TO 24 INCHES ABOVE 7500 FEET.
* ELEVATION: ABOVE 5500 FEET.
* TIMING: STARTING LATE TONIGHT AND CONTINUING INTO TUESDAY
MORNING. HEAVIEST SNOW LIKELY DURING THE DAY MONDAY.
* WINDS: SOUTH 20 TO 30 MPH WITH GUSTS UP TO 50 MPH OR HIGHER
THROUGH THE HIGH ELEVATION MOUNTAIN PASSES.
* IMPACTS: DRIVING WILL LIKELY BECOME HAZARDOUS FROM SLICK ROADS
AND REDUCED VISIBILITIES. SEASONALLY OPEN BACK COUNTRY ROADS
MAY BECOME IMPASSIBLE.
PRECAUTIONARY/PREPAREDNESS ACTIONS...
A WINTER STORM WARNING FOR HEAVY SNOW MEANS SEVERE WINTER WEATHER
CONDITIONS ARE EXPECTED. SIGNIFICANT AMOUNTS OF SNOW ARE FORECAST
THAT WILL MAKE TRAVEL DIFFICULT. IF YOU MUST TRAVEL...CARRY TIRE
CHAINS...KEEP AN EXTRA FLASHLIGHT...FOOD...AND WATER IN YOUR
VEHICLE IN CASE OF AN EMERGENCY.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
|
Chilkoot Lake today...with more on the way the next 2 days.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
|
But will it stick?
Stable weather for the next 7 days with daytime high's in 60's.
Praying for an extended Indian Summer!
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
Did anyone get out this weekend? I was looking at the winter weather outlook on NOAA. They're still sorting out the winter prediction but since El Nino conditions have shown up by now, they're leaning on a warmer than normal winter. For the short term, looks like a low pressure will coming into the state by Thursday morning, bring snow shower to elevations 6K and higher. Hmmmmm.....will it stick?
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
Thats a good question! I guess we'll just have to see, but usually once we get a strong cold winter blast like this it sets up a pattern from Alaska.
Good place to get some weather predictions that might affect us. http://tahoeweatherdiscussion.com/
Check out Madera Peaks weather:
Thursday A chance of rain and snow showers, mainly after 10am. Snow level 7100 feet. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 44. East northeast wind 5 to 10 mph becoming south southwest in the morning. Winds could gust as high as 15 mph. Chance of precipitation is 30%.
Thursday Night Snow showers likely. Cloudy, with a low around 24. South southeast wind 5 to 10 mph. Chance of precipitation is 70%. New snow accumulation of less than a half inch possible.
Friday Snow showers likely. Cloudy, with a high near 33. South southwest wind around 5 mph. Chance of precipitation is 70%.
Friday Night A 40 percent chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 22. Southwest wind around 5 mph becoming northeast in the evening.
Saturday Partly sunny, with a high near 36. North wind around 5 mph.
We found some cool climbing near Globe Rock only 1oo feet off the road this weekend. Heres some pix of a little 5 bolt 11c/d we put up on Sunday called "Mission Impossible". A bit mossy toward the top but the whole route is powerful, steep and pumpy.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2012 - 09:15pm PT
|
Yup, it was a COLD one up there today!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
|
Not too cold up there, still good to go as of 11-24.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:40pm PT
|
Nice Tom
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
|
Hell yeah. That last pic of the Silver Divide is badass.
|
|
crazy horse
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
|
yup, nice and warm. Been doing a bit of sunny exploring, trail work, fishing, hunting.
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
|
The Silver Divide... man the whole range was going off in pinks and purples.
It was good to get up there one more time. I wonder if this next storm will shut it down.
LE was a fun crag, I love the fact that there is a river with swimming holes right there.
Could be a lot of fun in summer.
I think SEEK AND YE SHALL FIND was my favorite route.
Funnel Runnel sort of fell apart at the end, but the first pitch was OK. Fun to do something that went to the top though.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
|
Ahoy, looks like a fine late season romp there Tom! (And purdy fish, Matt.)
But yea, you missed out on the hot day dip in the pools.
Funnel Runnel sort of fell apart at the end, but the first pitch was OK. Fun to do something that went to the top though.
Blasted domes of the Sierra almost always ease off into low angle slabbage at the top, making for less interesting final pitches. (Snake Dike somehow still ranks as a classic.) :)
In Oct. we were able to squeeze in a long overdue day at the old stomping grounds.
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
|
Lost eagle is an amazing place, i hung out there a ton this last summer, and the swimming holes are super fun, the melting wall has some of the wildest holds at shuteye, i like that there are no bolts on the melting wall, only anchors bolts, in all time i spent at lost eagle, only saw one climbing party while we were swimming at the creek, and it was there first time they were at lost eagle, i did find the road sign in the bushes and put it back up, it would be hard to find 6s23 without the road marker, it's one of my favorite places at shuteye, and can't wait for next summer to go back, heres a couple pix of amy and i chillen at lost eagle, happy climbing mike a.
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
|
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
2 thumbs up for Three Feathers. Nice pic Mike.
Shhh....ease up on the LE pools pics. ;)
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2012 - 12:15am PT
|
Anybody know if the road is open to the Big Sleep area?
Also we are heading up to Wawona Dome on Tuesday if anybody wants to join.
Jeff
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2012 - 12:26am PT
|
Tork I heard it was closed but call the north fork forest service office and they'll know for sure. They usually close the green gates on Dec 1st.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2012 - 01:17am PT
|
Thanks, I'll give them a call
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
|
Chiquito was perfect yesterday.
Snow down to 3,000 ft in a couple days!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
|
Son of a bitch!!!! That place is a God-send for climbers....
It is perfect. If you have 4WD and no need for stores or other people, that is.
Shhhh...be quiet.....
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
rode the bike up to high eagle, then granite creek, and around the backcountry scenic loop, heres a couple shots
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
Did you go up Beasore or come in from the Mammoth Pool side?
I'm mainly wanting to know if Beasore Road is open to and thru Grizzly.
Thanks
Ricky D
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
rickey, beashore is open and clear all the way up to the pass and over and around the back loop, and we came down minarets road to north fork. did not take the shortcut (grizzly), but not much snow. would think it is also clear
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
|
|
thx mctwisted, I was curious if one could get in from that way at this point. cool. I want to drive up to the upper ridge in the 4x in a couple weekends.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
It was great being out there with you Dan. Great climbing and positive vibes all around. Looks like you had a nice scenic drive home. Did you check out Gray for me. How about a photo of Va Va Va Voom.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Thanks Dan, awesome shot!
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
Nice!
great looking stone there tork.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
Well, I think enough has been said.
It's largely open. Nice! I'm looking for another go at Wamello again. Love that place.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Yes sir Mucci man, but missen the Gray stone.
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
i be at fresno dome tomorrow, and i think i be there next sat as well, pretty psyched on this season at shuteye and fresno dome!!!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Sorry Dan, my pics are not as good as yours but here are a few from the weekend.
|
|
wilbeer
Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny.greeneck alleghenys
|
|
That looks awesome.Way to get after it Dan.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
|
|
Holy Schmoly. Went out and climbed Captain Obvious on Gray Eagle this past Friday. What a route! Did some trail maintenance on the way in and had a stellar day up high. What a summit. Replaced some tat on the raps and made it back to tacos and salsa in Northfork before the sun went down.
Viva La Shuteye!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Awesome micro! Captain Wing Feather is such a good route. Did you do another Fresno to Fresno epic day??? You look tired. I bet you slept well that night?? Any chance you scoped the base of Gray to the far right, much snow?? I love Gray. Thanks!
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
good 'un indeed, micro!
Cool pics and adventure, Dan and Tork.
|
|
yosguns
climber
San Mateo, California
|
|
Ufff, what a cool place. I couldn't resist sharing a snapshot from the weekend; I hope no one minds. Wonderful 4th of July!
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2013 - 07:15pm PT
|
Mike. I think your shot of the pools wasn't needed. The one above yours was just fine. (I kid.)
Here's a couple recent shots to keep the old So Yo thread kickin.
Adam and I back on The Wing Feather/Captain Obvious. My second time up it in two months. Sooooo gooood. Just couldn't stay away.
Representin' MetalMark yo! Strait thuggin.
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
|
Can anyone let me know how the smoke is up on the ridge? It's pretty bad on the Fresno County side of the river. Thanks.
|
|
Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
|
Lightening strikes have started a number of fires in the Sierra Nevada. It was smokey over a wide area, including where we were at Courtright yesterday.
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2013 - 01:56am PT
|
Some Sierra National Forest campgrounds will be closed this weekend because of the "Aspen Fire" and smoke. - Additional campground closures went in to affect today as a precautionary measure. Campground closures within the Sierra National Forest are as follows:
-Sample Meadow
-West Kaiser
-Jackass Rock Organization
-Lower Chiquito
-Little Jackass
-Soda Springs
-Placer
-Sweet Water
-China Bar
-Rock Creek
-Rancheria
-Badger Flat
-Midge Creek
|
|
Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2013 - 01:58am PT
|
Updates on the fire, with map...
http://www.inciweb.org/incident/3552/
It is very smokey in the mornings with the afternoon breeze blowing the smoke back out to the east. I am sure Mammoth Mtn is not happy with their air quality either!
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2013 - 09:23am PT
|
I love Winged Obvious too! Just sayin' ;)
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2013 - 09:23am PT
|
Thanks for the information, too bad there wasn't a way to breathe eastside air in the morning and west side air in the afternoon.
|
|
karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2013 - 12:52am PT
|
Is the camping near high eagle and shangri la open? Never been up there but plan on exploring this weekend. Saturday and sunday, if anyone else is going hit me up and share some beers or belays with us
|
|
doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2013 - 10:27am PT
|
I rode my bike up there last week and people were campinbg there.
|
|
RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2013 - 10:52am PT
|
Its good to go. The road is getting worse though...you probably need high clearance
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Sep 12, 2013 - 11:03am PT
|
morning, yes the road is getting tuff to drive up on the road even in my 4x4, back in the day i could get there in my dodge caravan to the gate at friend rock camp site, i was there 2 weekends ago and saw no one there, but it was super smokey on sat, so i think the smoke scraed every one away on labor day weekend, i think this weekend is going to be a perfect week, so go!!! i am going tonight :-) happy climbing mike a.
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
|
Oct 13, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
|
took a joyride up to high eagle yesterday, beautiful sunset.
a bit if hail this morning, just as i was to tie in, so opted for riding to check out some scenery. met four parties up there in the brief time i was there, all great folks. great that its getting more use.
thanks g for the amazing new guidebook
subaru's were making it in to friend rock camp, which was impressive. yeah mike i remember when the road in used to be quite a bit better
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
|
|
|
Oct 13, 2013 - 11:16pm PT
|
Thanks Dan - More wonderful pictures.
|
|
David Wilson
climber
CA
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
|
Bump - great pics Dan
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2013 - 12:34am PT
|
Glad you are getting out there Dan! Nice photos, and what a fine rig for getting around out there.
|
|
splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
|
|
|
Apr 16, 2014 - 07:07pm PT
|
bump for a new season.
hoping to get up there the 2nd week of May.
any info on road access to fresno dome and shuteye/big sleep/balls??
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 01:02am PT
|
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 01:04am PT
|
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 01:05am PT
|
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 01:07am PT
|
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 01:10am PT
|
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 01:12am PT
|
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 01:13am PT
|
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 01:14am PT
|
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 01:20am PT
|
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 01:26am PT
|
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 01:28am PT
|
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 01:29am PT
|
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 01:57am PT
|
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 02:03am PT
|
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 02:12am PT
|
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 02:16am PT
|
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 02:19am PT
|
|
|
rincon
Trad climber
Coarsegold
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 06:55am PT
|
Looks like Todd Gordon went to Shuteye.
Sweet pictures bump!
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 07:46am PT
|
We went last week;...we had a blast..
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 07:52am PT
|
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 08:02am PT
|
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2014 - 08:43am PT
|
Nice Todd, glad you had a good time.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jun 22, 2014 - 08:53pm PT
|
Sawweeet!
Nice flower shots too, Todd.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Jack is a Forest Service fire fighter from North Fork. They are lighting back fires and seem to be making progress. It did rain on Wednesday, but it was really windy after that, so probably caused more harm than good. Mornings and nights are miserable with smoke here, but from around noon till dark it's not too bad. Actually saw blue sky for a few hours yesterday.
JB photo
Edit: Great pics Todd.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
So upsetting.
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
Yeah - read the Inciweb update just now - probably some fat f*#k drunken dipshit from the valley no doubt - christ I'd love to skin this idiot right now!
That moron has caused 11 of my dearest friends to abandon their only homes and threatens to burn down the place that me, my wife and my brother spent three years building.
The only hope I have on a personal level is that I have one neighbor who works for the Bass Lake FD and another who just retired from CalFire - been reaching out to them in a BIG way to save their places and mine!
Probably selfish and 1st world and all that sh#t - but damn man - I can't afford to rebuild a dream two times around.
|
|
this just in
climber
north fork
|
|
Not selfish at all Ricky. Hoping the best for you guys.
|
|
Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
Wishing y'all the best in soyo.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
Ditto. Hopping your and your friends homes have been spared. This area feels like home to me, and the thought of all that beauty lost is devastating.
There appears a turn for the better in this firefight according to the latest USFS update. Sure hoping so.
|
|
susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2014 - 03:54pm PT
|
Jeremy, o no, not triggeritis, there's just no winning. :)
Hear ya about trash at the fire pit. Whoever was there left an empty Rolling Rock, but fingerprints must be unobtainable being burned and faded.
Got as close a look as possible of the ridge from a NE perspective last weekend and we were encouraged. I was freaking out for a while about this, but the ridge & views are still there. :) Still beautiful!
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:04am PT
|
Figure I might as well add some pics to this big sleeping thread...
Crocodile
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:06am PT
|
North Eagle Beak and Runnel Vision
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:07am PT
|
Two steps forward one back.
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:08am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:10am PT
|
Dreamscape
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:11am PT
|
Pink point Mike at High Eagle
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:13am PT
|
Me playing grab ass on p3 Wing Feather
Mike Cowper pic
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:14am PT
|
Minus JR on p2 Wing Feather.
Mike Cowper pic
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:17am PT
|
Jeremy on p1 of Wing Captain Obvious Feather.
Mike Cowper pic
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:19am PT
|
The biggest Mike I know on Willy Nilly, Crocodile.
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:20am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:20am PT
|
Yup
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:22am PT
|
Moonlight Madness, Big Sleep
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:23am PT
|
Mindy at Eagle's Nest
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:24am PT
|
Barry Chambers Sweet Dreams.
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:25am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:26am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:27am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:28am PT
|
Jeremy photo of Pass Bouldering
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:29am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:30am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:30am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:31am PT
|
Jeremy pic
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:32am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:33am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:33am PT
|
Mindy pics
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:36am PT
|
Soyo love
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:37am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:38am PT
|
Chilkoot
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:39am PT
|
Hansel Heiss.
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:40am PT
|
Ms. Mindy
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:41am PT
|
Jeremy on Java Time
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:42am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:43am PT
|
Nate Hodges
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:45am PT
|
Slater, lol.
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:46am PT
|
The Great Rowan
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:47am PT
|
Rock Creek
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:48am PT
|
Willow Creek
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:49am PT
|
Probably taken this same pic a hundred times.
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:50am PT
|
The Beaks
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:53am PT
|
Jeremy at the Nest
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:54am PT
|
excellent
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:54am PT
|
More later...
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:54am PT
|
More now!
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:56am PT
|
Alright a couple more.
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:57am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:58am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 07:59am PT
|
Best camp spot at Mammoth Pools
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 08:00am PT
|
Gates just make the approach longer.
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 08:01am PT
|
And harder
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 08:03am PT
|
Limping and Vitaliy's next project?
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 08:04am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 08:05am PT
|
A relic
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 08:06am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 08:07am PT
|
Oh wait...
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 08:51am PT
|
Am I the only one that can see Justin's recent pictures on my phone but not on either computer?
Edit: Nevermind, it was my dumb work internet, fixed it.
PS, I very much want to climb Balloon Dome! I also want to go back to where Granite Creek meets the San Joaquin down below the dome and take revenge on the giant brown that ate the 10" rainbow I was reeling in!
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 11:08am PT
|
You mean this giant brown?
Nate Hodges pic
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 11:09am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 11:10am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 11:11am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 11:12am PT
|
Shuteye Pass
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 11:13am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 11:14am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 11:15am PT
|
Some of the best
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 11:16am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 11:16am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 11:17am PT
|
Squaw Dome or whatever it's called now
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 11:18am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 11:19am PT
|
Busted
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 11:21am PT
|
Whisky Creek
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 11:22am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 11:22am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 11:23am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 11:24am PT
|
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 11:26am PT
|
More later...
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 03:44pm PT
|
yowza, you need a new thread for that much goodness!
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2015 - 08:10am PT
|
Ha, this thread is perfect munge. The majority of these are reposts, just think they need to be in my favorite thread. Thanks man, you should check soyo out sometime;-)South Beak
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2015 - 08:14am PT
|
Not too often you find the grinding stone in the hole.
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2015 - 08:16am PT
|
View from the pass
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2015 - 08:21am PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2015 - 08:36am PT
|
great stuff, it must be nice being a local!
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2015 - 08:53am PT
|
Eric Walden on Voodoo Child, 10d
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2015 - 09:15am PT
|
Slater
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2015 - 09:18am PT
|
I don't always get two FA shots in one, but when I do, I prefer to be belaying.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2015 - 09:21am PT
|
Cool mortar and pestal shot
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2015 - 09:31am PT
|
These ones are in Cascadel. Around 40 of them in this little area. Make pretty good dog bowls.
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2015 - 09:58am PT
|
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2015 - 09:59am PT
|
|
|
Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2015 - 10:26am PT
|
Stellar shots folks! Keep 'em coming. :-)
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2015 - 10:27am PT
|
Nice Mike.
Jeremy on Java Time. Awesome little 5.9. Frog roof behind him.
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2015 - 10:28am PT
|
Chilkoot
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2015 - 10:30am PT
|
Hansel Heiss on ?
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2015 - 10:31am PT
|
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2015 - 06:15pm PT
|
Ahhh, all the beauty pics are killing me!
|
|
drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
|
Bump
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
Jefe, you gotta come hang out in the SoYo sometime.
|
|
drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
|
Thisjustin I may have to take you up in that offer one of these days.
Don't be surprised if I show up at your doorstep.
|
|
splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
|
|
who gave you authorization to bump this thread?
|
|
tradryan
Big Wall climber
San Diego
|
|
It was a pleasure to meet many of you folks earlier this summer in SoYo! I lurk often but post little. I hope to make it back out this season sometime, if not then certainly next.
Cheers!
|
|
FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
|
|
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
Shuteye is like a bizarre climber's playground. In a good way.
It's quite ideal because it's not simple to get out there, but if yer motivated (most climbers) you'll find it, and have blast.
It's must-see if you're a climber (jefe). And the Ross brothers are very generous guides of the area. Justin and Jeremy are the real deal.
I'd go back up but I'm looking for a house right now. That consumes most of my time.
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2017 - 11:53am PT
|
Is it still pumping snow & rain?
Do you feel it
You and all are going
Slowly more insane
Constantly bumping
Climbing content gets
Lame
|
|
Camahoo
Trad climber
Dead Pine Ridge, Ca
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2017 - 01:13pm PT
|
Yo, This-Just-In got any photos you haven't posted of shuteye? I thought you lived in North Fork so why you at a bay area locals only place?
|
|
J R
climber
bend
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2017 - 02:56pm PT
|
Cool pics. Always wanted to visit those crags.
|
|
drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2017 - 03:11pm PT
|
My favorite place was the Eagle's Nest.
Man, that place is cool.
Camahoo- thisjustin doesn't post anymore. Says his boss put the kibosh on ST at the office.
|
|
Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
|
|
An update on the west face of Hawk Tower in the Dreamscape area of Shuteye Ridge. The first bolt of Dreaming in Color / Sweet Dreams / Counting Sheep has its hanger missing. The first two climbs share the first bolt while Counting Sheep starts midway on Sweet Dreams. Kind of a bummer after that beater of an approach (didn't quite nail it).
Anyway, we had a wired stopper that "probably" works and we left it there for others, but I'm afraid it will screw up the threads of the stud after a while. Looks like a 3/8" stainless steel stud if someone reads this and is heading up.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
|
|
|
Aug 13, 2018 - 06:27pm PT
|
Just bumping one of the best ST threads ever. Hey So Yo.....whatchu been up to?
|
|
rincon
climber
Coarsegold
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2019 - 03:38pm PT
|
Today...
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2019 - 07:37pm PT
|
Nice view from Deadwood, thanks for the report Rob, happy climbing Mike A.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2019 - 10:03pm PT
|
Miss that place.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2019 - 04:10pm PT
|
Likewise and climbing with you broseph
|
|
Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2019 - 04:28pm PT
|
Friend got thru Minarets on a snowmo, says still about 18 inches of rotted snow with some bare patches on South facing ridges.
LOTS of tree fall. Year 4 of the Bark Beetle and the dead pines are coming down
Take chainsaws.
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Mar 17, 2019 - 04:46pm PT
|
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Mar 17, 2019 - 09:44pm PT
|
Thx Mike. The res is way up!
|
|
susu
climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
May 17, 2019 - 11:46am PT
|
Bye to my favorite thread - Cheers all!
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
May 17, 2019 - 12:29pm PT
|
I will try and keep this thread a live on MP already post it on MP, happy climbing Mike A.
|
|
nature
climber
Boulder, CO
|
|
|
May 31, 2019 - 11:54pm PT
|
BumpFest 2019
|
|
| Messages 1 - 2512 of total 2512 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!