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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Three of us made it out on Sunday to High Eagle, Aerie and 557's. We had morning sun, afternoon clouds, a bit of wind and temps around 60. Good for sending!
We all sent Eagles Gift aka Va Va Voom. It even saw a flash which was pretty cool.
I finally finished the trail work to 557's from the Aerie. Now its quicker and with less up and down hiking. There was an old trail and I was able to link the new one into it with some clearing. Now the trail comes out of the woods right across from Hobbit Dome.
On 557's Fa'd a new 10b/c just right of See You In Heaven. 200 feet of amazing face climbing and the second half climbs on both sides of a water runnel that looks like a pipe split down the middle. Dreamy incut horns pop out every time you need one. 21 bolts with a mid way rap station. It sounds like a lot of bolts but it doesn't feel like a sport climb with an average spacing of 9 to 10 feet apart. I am calling it "Half Pipe Dreams"
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Nice Grahm! '5 Amigos' (the unfinished project just left of the Gold Buttress) was finally finished. Went down at .10d with 2 bolts linking up the lower to the upper crack. Goes a full 60 meters before the crack (5.6) ends in the corner next to the buttress. Also, put up two new routes on the Gray Slab (75' left of '5 Amigos'). The left route (which is just 10' right of 'Fill In The Blank', the OW/crack climb) is still a TR. Tough slab/face climbing.....checks in at solid 5.11. Calling it 'Blister The Bird'. The right route, which starts on a boulder, is a bolted line (7 bolts, 85 feet) heading up steep slab with subtle dishes and tiny smears with two demanding cruxes (both mantles, the first involving a balancy high step/rocker over move). Calling it 'A Touch Of Gray', .10c.
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Slater
climber
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Grahm, glad you put in a mid-way rap station next to ...Heaven. Now we don't have to walk all the way around :) or risk a rope snag. Thanks man! Those two routes are gonna get a LOT of traffic.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Heaven forbid anything at Shuteye gets a LOT of traffic. A lot of traffic at Shuteye is like a ghost town anywhere else. :)
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Too true. Maybe they will see two ascents this year! Congrats on the new lines Mooch and team Lost Eagle! The mantles sound rad. I look forward to trying them next time I am out that way.
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Slater
climber
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I bet they see THREE ascents a year. Cause I'll do them three times in a row.
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Saturday's temps were ideal......Sunday a bit warmer making those subtle dishes and tiny smears a little more peely.
Def-Nately a temperature dependent route. ;)
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kev
climber
CA
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I should have some things to report soon - expect a report in a few weeks...
Tiki, you had good weather Sat? It look like it was going to storm all day over by Gray. Turned out only to drizzle a little.
kev
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Kev, I should clarify. It was very ominous looking all day.
Cool rock equals good friction. Good for sending!
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kev
climber
CA
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Tiki,
Sat I figured out the approach to what we've named "The Nest."
Looks like 4-10 2-3 pitch routes of varying difficulty. I will report when finished.
A few friends of mine put up a 3 pitches on another formation and I think finished their line Sunday. I haven't heard from them since Sunday AM and I'll let them tell you about it...
Anyhow give me a few more weeks and I should have some new stuff to report.
Yeah the clouds sat were all show no go!
kev
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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tiki - Call me re shoes, in the next few days... I was in storage recently and pulled a bunch out. I think I got both pairs out that you were interested in...
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kev
climber
CA
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Jeremy,
No it's not "Eagles Nest." It's a small lower seperate buttress
near some other domes. The name seemed appropriate given it's size, the number of nest like pine needles around it and it's overall shape. Plus there aren't a lot of names left staying with the tradition up there. That and "Baby Eagle", "Little Eagle", and "The Eaglet" didn't seem right for the formation plus are a bit, uh, well girlie. I'll post a report in a few weeks when I've got more to report, and give Grahm and others the topos.
kev
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kev
climber
CA
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Jeremy,
No eagle in the name!
kev
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mucci
Trad climber
sf ca
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1 vote for Kev naming it
"Chicken Hawk Eagle Rapist Domelette"
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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How about Berchtesgaden, has that been used up there yet?
hehe....
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Cool, kev.
Beagle Dome? :-)
Raptor Snack?
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Hey Kev, besides the Eagle names there is the religious names as well....Check out some of the old Jack Delk routes and there is the Book of Revelations. We're working on one called Exile Dome.
I'm done with the eagle names myself.
Our last was Lost Eagle Dome.
Ya also got Queen's Throne......perhaps something along those lines??
JR....what's up....call me.....you so funny!!
Ger
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Jun 10, 2009 - 11:50am PT
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Yea, what's up JR? Woulda been great havin' you there this weekend. Still up for the idea of enjoying cervs at North Fork. Yep, Sat. actually was ideal for sending. Hey Ger.....post a few pix. Especially that one of that guy freakin' out on '5 Amigos'.....what a hoot!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 10, 2009 - 12:49pm PT
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 10, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
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