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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Thanks all
The route is very fun but with a few runouts in easier terrain. Also those that know me well, know what special gear to bring(think pink). Otherwise a singles rack to a #3 C4 and a lot of slings.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Looks like a little bit of everything tork. Thanks for sharing the topo, any action shots of the climb?
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Hell ya, looks awesome! Great work you two, and awesome topos.
Those two deep caves on the ledge are super cool. Some crazy bouldering potential in there possibly.
Too funny on the name. Matt and I already named a route "Bright Side of Life" earlier this year on Gray. We told you about it when we were climbing on Thunderstruck together. It probably knocked around in your brain and then came out again. :-) We named ours after the Life of Brian movie. If you know the movie, you know the last song... always look on the bright side of life (then the whistling part) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHPOzQzk9Qo
We were thinking it would be fun to keep the Monty Python theme going on other routes nearby.
Our route "Taipan Rising" on Electric goes at only 11a (we were pleasantly surprised). Theres one pitch that has a little aid (french free on bolts) to get past a possible 5.13 dyno section that may go free someday. But, the rest is all free at 11a. I am working on the topo and description now for the guide. Jim T took some amazing shots, but they are not mine to share. :-( He has to make a living somehow. :-) Maybe he will post some of his throw away shots. (still bitchin)
Here's the rest of mine, not really that helpful for showing the route but...
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Sorry, no pics. Gotta get a camera.
Wow Grahm, 11a! Cool!
Do you have routes off that ledge? There were a couple of routes that we could tell had been done. We used a 2 bolt anchor that was already there for the belayer on pitch 4. It would be easy for someone to miss our 4th and get on this other route instead. Our 4th starts about 30' left and a bit down from the existing 2 bolt anchor. The first route just left looks good. You can see a couple of bolts above after a steep crack ends.
My zombie plan is to hole up in there.
As far as the name??? Not sure if you got it in my head??? It is mostly due to a lot of the sh#t talking and other acts that has been going on for the past couple of seasons out there that has really gotten me down. I think that when I walked past my route at Gray with the stolen hanger I started thinking about all of it and started getting angrey, then said fuc it lets go climb that line over there in the sun.
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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We were in the exact same head space when we named ours! Nothing like climbing a great new route to cheer you up and see whats important.
Those other routes aren't mine. I was just checking them out and saw the caves. Ya, zombies would have a hard time finding you there. The Walking Dead have a tough time climbing 10b. But, for some tasty brains they will try. :-)
Dan asked me to draw Taipan Rising on his photo and post it. So here it is. Obviously my publisher would prefer I not post up the finished topos and route descriptions with the guide coming out soon (your new route will make it in). But, this will get you guys up the route if your getting on it in the next few weeks.
Bring gear to 2" for the mixed first pitch. Theres two bolts at the start. Most will want to stick clip the first bolt. After P1 its just bolts for pro, with the occasional knob sling up higher on the route. All bolted belays. Edit - Bring 17 draws for P3 and be willing to pull on draws to reach jugs and then the next bolt for the easy A0 part.
Found these photos from last year, October 5th. brrr
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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11a up that stunning overhanging wall?? Wowzers!
Please
don't
show
snow...
yet.
:)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Is it possible to break thru the overhangs on the left side?
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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thanks grahm, wow, now with torks route as a start a guy could do a 10 pitch route at 11a, on some of the finest rock on the planet, sweet.
munge, there are a few routes out the cave at the bottom, then following black streaks, that jones and ketron did (5.12). and i think theres one left of the cave also, that wilber did, thats perhaps 11-, that goes to the top (ill try and get some details)
also ketron and i put up a great route a fair bit to the right of the one shown in the pic thats 4 pitches at 12a
grahm put an order in for me, i need that guidebook
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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I owe YOU, and some others folks one for all the route names and beta shared on their routes. Lookin forward to getting it in your hands.
You crazy "El Portalien's" put up some sweet climbs. hehe, Brian said it was 11d, but I bet 12a is more accurate. That last pitch you guys did looks insane!
Don't forget Sharma and Sean's 13c through that roof too! The one to the far left is called Glory Balls 11b.
Good call on linking the routes together. That would be an amazing day of climbing some sweet Shuteye stone.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Is Dan being a sandbagger again?
That face is so incredible!
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Kurt Jensen
Trad climber
Aptos,CA
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Oct 17, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
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Hi Southern Yosemite crew...
I just made my first trip there recently and got three great days in,
High Eagle, Shangri La, and South Eagle Beak area.
Grahm, thanks for showing everybody around and helping us find our way to some really fun routes!
I'm headed out there tomorrow, planning to camp up by High Eagle in my red Tacoma.
I've got through Monday morning and need some info on routes.
I've got Slater's book, and think we'll hit 557's/High Eagle/Shangri La.
We've got time for more...any recomendations? GF is 5.9 to 5.10b climber, me a bit higher, but 11and under suits us. Grahm, you climbing this weekend?
Maybe a trip to S. Eagle beak again if I can remember the road to turn on...
I'd love some help on route info and such, or to meet up if anyone's out climbing somewhere fun.
I sure loved what I climbed on my first visit, and am looking forward to sharing it with my girlfriend and camping out up there before the season changes to Grahm snowmobiling around :-)
Kurt
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Oct 17, 2012 - 07:34pm PT
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Sh#t yeah Kurt. Glad you enjoyed the area and are coming back for more. If you're camping in high eagle area, go check out dreamscape. It's about a half hour walk from camp. Send graham an email and he will share the route info. Some great moderates and I believe up to 13. Saturday or Sunday, I will probably be up on the south side and wouldn't mind showing you crocodile. Email me if you want to, maybe grahm would be down too. Regardless have a great weekend.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Oct 17, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
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If you also like trad multi-pitch, make the drive to check out the east side of the ridge - Grey Eagle area in particular. You won't be disappointed.
Half the fun of Shuteye and beyond is having little info and just hiking up to stuff, sussing out what's there, and climbing it.
But if you stay centered around High Eagle, Dreamscape isn't far from camp, and rumor has it, holds some dandy moderate knob romps and some steeper challenges. :)
I think this may have been edited down (certainly fewer pics and no more Crocodile topo), but here's an article Slater wrote for Climbing, covering some of the southern end of the ridge:
http://www.climbing.com/route/wake-up-call/
EDIT: Whoa, Justin, a true blood local, beat me to some of the same recommendations!
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Kurt Jensen
Trad climber
Aptos,CA
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Oct 17, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
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Thanks guys. I'd be intersted in info on Dreamscape and 557's since we'll camp close.
We could move camp to join someone further SE from there for a day too. Sounds great!
I'd love to get back up to that S. Eagle Beak area too! I'm so excited to get back out there again...
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Oct 21, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
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A powerful storm system will press into the West Coast early Monday bringing cold and wet weather to the region, as well as the first significant snow of the season. The Sierra Nevada Range is forecast to receive up to 18 inches of snow at the higher elevations. Yosemite National Park could see 8 inches of snow. Winter Storm Warnings and Winter Weather Advisories are in effect across the area.
WEST SLOPE NORTHERN SIERRA NEVADA-
240 PM PDT SUN OCT 21 2012
...WINTER STORM WARNING REMAINS IN EFFECT FROM 11 PM THIS EVENING
TO 5 AM PDT TUESDAY ABOVE 5500 FEET...
* SNOW ACCUMULATIONS: 6 TO 12 INCHES WITH LOCAL ACCUMULATIONS OF
18 TO 24 INCHES ABOVE 7500 FEET.
* ELEVATION: ABOVE 5500 FEET.
* TIMING: STARTING LATE TONIGHT AND CONTINUING INTO TUESDAY
MORNING. HEAVIEST SNOW LIKELY DURING THE DAY MONDAY.
* WINDS: SOUTH 20 TO 30 MPH WITH GUSTS UP TO 50 MPH OR HIGHER
THROUGH THE HIGH ELEVATION MOUNTAIN PASSES.
* IMPACTS: DRIVING WILL LIKELY BECOME HAZARDOUS FROM SLICK ROADS
AND REDUCED VISIBILITIES. SEASONALLY OPEN BACK COUNTRY ROADS
MAY BECOME IMPASSIBLE.
PRECAUTIONARY/PREPAREDNESS ACTIONS...
A WINTER STORM WARNING FOR HEAVY SNOW MEANS SEVERE WINTER WEATHER
CONDITIONS ARE EXPECTED. SIGNIFICANT AMOUNTS OF SNOW ARE FORECAST
THAT WILL MAKE TRAVEL DIFFICULT. IF YOU MUST TRAVEL...CARRY TIRE
CHAINS...KEEP AN EXTRA FLASHLIGHT...FOOD...AND WATER IN YOUR
VEHICLE IN CASE OF AN EMERGENCY.
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Oct 22, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
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Chilkoot Lake today...with more on the way the next 2 days.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Oct 24, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
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But will it stick?
Stable weather for the next 7 days with daytime high's in 60's.
Praying for an extended Indian Summer!
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Did anyone get out this weekend? I was looking at the winter weather outlook on NOAA. They're still sorting out the winter prediction but since El Nino conditions have shown up by now, they're leaning on a warmer than normal winter. For the short term, looks like a low pressure will coming into the state by Thursday morning, bring snow shower to elevations 6K and higher. Hmmmmm.....will it stick?
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Thats a good question! I guess we'll just have to see, but usually once we get a strong cold winter blast like this it sets up a pattern from Alaska.
Good place to get some weather predictions that might affect us. http://tahoeweatherdiscussion.com/
Check out Madera Peaks weather:
Thursday A chance of rain and snow showers, mainly after 10am. Snow level 7100 feet. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 44. East northeast wind 5 to 10 mph becoming south southwest in the morning. Winds could gust as high as 15 mph. Chance of precipitation is 30%.
Thursday Night Snow showers likely. Cloudy, with a low around 24. South southeast wind 5 to 10 mph. Chance of precipitation is 70%. New snow accumulation of less than a half inch possible.
Friday Snow showers likely. Cloudy, with a high near 33. South southwest wind around 5 mph. Chance of precipitation is 70%.
Friday Night A 40 percent chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 22. Southwest wind around 5 mph becoming northeast in the evening.
Saturday Partly sunny, with a high near 36. North wind around 5 mph.
We found some cool climbing near Globe Rock only 1oo feet off the road this weekend. Heres some pix of a little 5 bolt 11c/d we put up on Sunday called "Mission Impossible". A bit mossy toward the top but the whole route is powerful, steep and pumpy.
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