southern yosemite

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Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 4, 2009 - 07:25pm PT
Really slipping here....



Second thread, second apology.



Hot waitress in a hair net, I will lick salsa off you....


But only if it's thick and hot
crazy horse

Trad climber
seattle, wa
Feb 4, 2009 - 07:27pm PT
hey Ran,

i can't affort to be suuuuper interested in climbing right now since i live in Seattle now and our weather suuuuuuucks. it's a 550 dollar round trip to fly to Fresno and i just can't afford it. Plus it's ski season, so i'm heading up to the hill about 3 days a week right now. That said, i've been super lucky to get in 4 (about 11 pitches climbing) new routes last season, all on side trips from work gigs in Tehachapi.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
Feb 4, 2009 - 07:30pm PT
Scuffy - Not sure. I tried to post a reply and got the same. I thin that's jsut some sort of cache we're seeing. Even tho it comes up in the ST search engine when I do a search for "salsa". I was under the impression that RJ had fixed it so that when a the OP removes his post that the thread stays on... Who knows what's going on tho.

Matt - Ahh... Thought maybe you were back in town. When you get in, look me up so we can finally hit some routes. Just so ya know, we're a lively bunch, and most are just razzin' ya, dude.
Strider

Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
Feb 4, 2009 - 07:31pm PT
scuffy, the deleted thread is now an artifact and you can not post to it. Only way to see it now is to click the link, read it there and then post here, in your new thread.

-n
scuffy b

climber
just below the San Andreas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 07:54pm PT
OK, Thanks.

I'm just thinking, What A Resource that other thread is/was.
By the time I ever get around to going to those places, I won't
remember the existence of the thread.
A bigger loss for other people than for me, realistically.

Better luck next time, Crazy Horse. So-called thread drift must
be respected (and expected).
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Feb 4, 2009 - 07:55pm PT
hey there guys... say, i just stepped in to see what i could learn about southern yosemite.... '


oooooooooooopss...

sorry, say, perhaps this will grow again, and there will be some pics.... hope all will be well, guys...


sometimes, once the brush-fire clears, a wonderful new crop of trees can grow....

also---out of curiousity, technically, which part of yosemite is considered "southern" and for you climbers, which routes does this area contain, (yet, i need to know, by rock area, such as el cap, three brothers? glacier, etc, or i will not know what you all are talking about----then, you CAN name the routes, after i am placed, better...

thanks guys...

*not being dumb on perpose here, but where is the boundries for noth, and east... and even west, mark (chappy) lived in yosemite west, and i rememeber, we drove out on a long stretch of nicely walled road?? and through a tunned, ? if i remember right???
Dingus Milktoast

climber
Feb 4, 2009 - 08:05pm PT
Speaking of salsa, I like that mexican restaurant there in Bishop on the main drag too.

That sure is some gooooooood salsa. Mmmmmmmmmmm.

Aint Scffy? Didjyou make this?

DMT
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 4, 2009 - 08:09pm PT
DMT --

Try the one around the corner on E Line, behind Galen's gallery
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
Feb 4, 2009 - 08:14pm PT
I agree with Doug - I like the place behind Galen's too.

Fact is though, unless it's really bad, I think if you've been out climbing hard all day and pull up to a Mexican joint that serves decent food and margs, it's probably the best place you've been to in a long time! Kinda the like the McDonald's I had on the way to the airport in Cairo, while I was starving, after eating weeks of Egyptian food...
kev

climber
CA
Feb 4, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
Hey Crazy Horse,

Sorry if I seemed a little unfriendly. I usually skim the drift and since I wasn't part of it I took offense.

Also Matt seems like a good guy and not chipper. I've meet him up there once or twice I think.

kev
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Feb 5, 2009 - 02:49am PT
A bit late to the party here, but just for the record, Like Matt, I LOVE Soyo as well. Kind of obsessed with understanding more of it's mystery/history, but little time to do so. Cool to hear a few folks here were climbing there in the 70s.

Roger B. - please do continue to track down those photos. Been years since I last prodded you. :) I think I know the roadside overhanging thing you mention.

JEleazarian - where's the one bolt you placed on Squaw?

Spencer did the best he could with what little info was available. Updated guidebooks are sort of in the works, but if you poke around and talk to the right folks, plenty new info is available already. Word of mouth is fun and trad, no? And lest anyone be mistaken that this vast area is overrun with sport routes, I beg to differ. Much of Shuteye Ridge maybe, but that's only a half to a third of the rock out there.

MisterE

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Feb 5, 2009 - 02:54am PT
Never hear about the

"Southern Yosemite Mountain Guides" much here,

I lost a girl to one of them - there's a story there...
Strider

Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
Feb 5, 2009 - 03:21am PT
So lets hear about the Southern Yosemite Mountain guides! Guiding in SoYo must be interesting...


-n
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 5, 2009 - 09:59am PT
I'll say a little about Southern Yosemite Mountain Guides, since I've been guiding with them for years.

They're a thriving guide service started by some dirtbags who lived together at Bass Lake almost 20 years ago.

SYMG teaches rock climbing at Fresno Dome and beyond. And guides big mountains in South America. And -- you may not believe the audacity -- guides fly fishing where they snare their wily prey without a beard net.

But the bigger part of their business is backpacking, which ranges throughout the Sierra. They do trips into the Ansel Adams Wilderness, Yosemite and Sequoia-Kings. They even guide the entire John Muir Trail.

They do well by being really good to their clients, which regularly earns them magazine hype like "best outfitter on the planet."

You can check them out at www.symg.com

Good people.
Dingus Milktoast

climber
Feb 5, 2009 - 10:15am PT
No guide stories but I have a thirsty tale...

Angus and I did an ascent of Liberty on Chiquito Dome, sh#t, early to mid 90s. That route was Burl's first multi-pitch route and his 2nd ever on a rope, but this day with Angus was before that, call it 91 I guess.

Anyway, as someone already noted, Shuteye and Chiquito, particularly the south facing Chiquito, get friggin HOT in summer.

So we like did the route, yo?
One of those days when the rock burnt your fingers and the black rubber of the shoes SMOKED if you let them on the rock too long in the same place. Gotta climb like those desert beatles that pick up their feet like a cat on a hot tin roof.

We ran out of water long before we finished the route. We drank what little we had left when we got back to the packs.

We had left NO WATER in the car. And omg it was HOT (in the 90s). It had been a major mistake to climb there that day, a lesson we took to heart.

So thrashing down to the Beasore road from Chiquito we emerged from the woods onto the road, beyond parched. Knowing there was no water in the car and a LONG DRIVE to the nearest store, we were sorta dispaired.

As we walked down the road back to the car Angus spotted a plastic bottle of Dr. Pepper embedded in the dried mud in the ditch along side of the road. He saw the cap was still on it and it appeared full.

Angus being Angus, he pulled that f*#ker out and held it up.

"Look Dingus, it hasn't been opened. Want a drink?"

I looked at it and sure enough the security ring was intact. An unopened soda, pulled from the dried mud of a summer ditch - how long had it been there?????

Dr. Pepper no less.

Me being me I'm all,

"I will if you will!"

And without fanfare he gave r a twist. Of course hot Dr Pepper sprayed all over everywhere. Then he took a quick swig, grimaced and passed it to me. Sh#t it was on now so I tilted my head back and took a swallow too.

It was awful man! Like drinking hot bubbly battery acid. Yum. So I took one more swig and handed it back. The bottle had been in the sun, I bet that liquid was 120 degrees or more, HOT ancient mud ditch Dr Pepper.

So we got back to the car. We were so desperate we decided to drink from Chiquito Creek.

Ever looked at that creek? I'm guessing this situation has changed. I think there had been extensive logging upstream the previous year, maybe a fire or something.

Anyway the creek bottom was coated with red something or other, Red Death maybe, maybe red lands dirt and runnoff, maybe mining or logging runnoff, we had no idea.

The water had a funny tinge to it as well.

I walked out to the center, intent on finding something suitable to drink. Something in the water moved in front of me.

An enormous trout! The thing was sick and dying and could not swim any faster than I could walk. The water was shallow and the beast couldn't get going. I reached down and hauled it bodily out of the water, I bet it weighed 10 pounds. I held it up to Angus - (still had my accent on those days)...

"Look Angus, this is how we fish in Tennessee!"

I let the dying fish go. We could not summon the nerve to drink that water though.

"Wish Ida kept the Dr Pepper" lamented Angus.

So we drove uphill and then back down past the Balls to get to that little store, don't recall the name anymore. Maybe the Beasores Meadow store?

We hoped and hoped it would be open. Goddamn but we were thirsty, had had no water at all since the top of p3 on the climb. Oh, and the Dr. Pepper.

Finally we got to the store and it was OPEN!

Ah AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

We each bought 2 bottles of gatorade and downed them both before we even left the parking lot. Man that was GOOOOOOD!

We ate at El Cids that day. You El Cid haters can kiss my big ass bazat!

DMT
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 5, 2009 - 10:42am PT
chippers' are barneys( I couldn't resist) the " other " mexican place in bishop- las palmas- good salsa bar, are we still allowed to talk about chippers' and salsa on this thread?
Dingus Milktoast

climber
Feb 5, 2009 - 10:47am PT
What's the one on the main drag called? Its Old School american mexican, I like it. I'll try the other one next time opportunity presents.

Try that one in Groveland. Its GOOD. Esp. the carnitas.

DMT
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 5, 2009 - 10:57am PT
amigos- mexi place on main drag- not bad for "cow" town like bishop here my quick and easy recipe for carnitas- crock pot,pork shoulder, onion, garlic, one MEXICAN beer, water, throw it in and come back in 4 hrs or so -muy bien!!
Dingus Milktoast

climber
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:02am PT
"one MEXICAN beer"

You mean there are OTHER kinds?????

DMT
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:05am PT
actually, you could use one of those " hoppy" micro-brews gives a rich flavor to the CARNITAS- I love CARNITAS!!!!!!!
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