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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Anybody dare climb "Mr. Natural" since the rockfalls over the last several years? Sure wish they would move that climb to a safer area.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2009 - 03:33pm PT
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straight shooter
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2009 - 03:43pm PT
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fugitive
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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My "favorite" only because they are at my folks' cabin, and are the closest.
The prominent boulder in the upper right is this unclimbed overhanging, barn-door lay-backing special.
I haven't managed to conquer this splitter in the area, either.
It looks like hand-size, but it climbs like tight fingers.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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It looks like hand-size, but it climbs like tight fingers.
Reminds me of what is probably my all-time favorite finger crack. Favorite not because it was somehow better than any other perfect splitter, but because it was not a gaping off-width. It was about 1,500 ft above the valley floor (no, not that stupid Capital-V Valley in California) and really obvious. We assumed it must be pretty wide if we could see it so clearly from below, and that it would probably shut us down, but it turned out to be a full pitch of perfect fingers and thin hands, way up in the sky above a deserted valley, surrounded by beautiful peaks.
We got shut down by a fairly blank headwall a bit higher, and barely made it back to the valley by dark, but it had been a fun day. Ten new pitches on a face no one else had ever been on, with the special reward of a ropelength of beautiful moderate fingers instead of the six-inch horror show we expected!
I wish I had some pictures of it to share.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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holy toledo this looks good. where is it? i love slightly-less-than vert thin cracks that let you use your feet 'n stuff...
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Red Planet at Sedona looks sick! I'm trying that if i ever go.
Equinox in Jtree is cool but painful
Heart of Stone on Fairview looks really good.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Heart of Stone...
Big long enduro corner sort 'a gig, mostly fingers, left facing,
Tightens up right at the top.
Lots of varied & interesting climbing on that route's other pitches too.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Was it one of you Kingsbury boys that mentioned Southwest Direct on Devils Tower?
FFA by Henry Barber.
Starts out as seen in the picture, 5.7 fingers.
Gets considerably harder!
This is a good one to take to the top too...
Wish I had pictures of Digital Extraction, also at Devils Tower and mentioned upthread.
That is one of the all-time straight in finger cracks.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
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Thats the one tar!!!!
(i brought my friend up it for the first time last spring and he flashed it after four morning beers!!!!) luckily i only had 2....
those two are favorites for sure!!!!
nice shots of breashers crack up thread!!
cheers,
patrick
edit: did u climb the second pitch of digital tar? i remember you said u did, and then another time thought u didn't....it looks good, but alot more grassy than the first
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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I know for sure I toted the rope up the first pitch of Digital.
Smooth as silk...
I just can't remember whether we did the second.
I'd have to ask Nancy Prichard, my partner: haven't spoken with her in years ...
The other route we were discussing, also a finger crack & a stout 5.11, which I said was like stemming between two cracks (while getting good finger locks in the primary crack), is I think, the McCarthy West Face.
McCarthy North Face also has some fingers, but not as hard as these others we're discussing.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
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yeah the first pitch is sweet for sure.
the McCarthy West Face original looks sweet!!! one that i haven't yet tried!!! the crux is the very top yes?
franks told me stories of trying that thing and being able to 'spit at the anchors', but not being able to pull the final move.
cheers,
patrick
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Yes I think so; crux at the top of McCarthy West.
I'm looking in my guidebook and the description fits (Pitch 2: climb the right most of three cracks, 95 feet, 5.11c)
Can't remember if the crux is necessarily technical; like most things at Devils Tower, you have stamina issues to contend with primarily.
Sue Wint followed; she has tremendous "leg span" and was able to just let go of her hands most of that pitch!
This is a very aesthetic climb; at least concerning the crux lead.
I wanted to top out, but it was getting late and the women were cold.
(This cool artsy chick named Tyr, a bit over her head, sort of fell up that second pitch)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Blues Riff,
Though primarily a tight hand crack; you'd better be good with sequenced finger locks if you want to get through the crux!
Goldfinger, though, that's gotta be the big daddy of Tuolumne finger cracks!
(I have no experience with it)
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Here's one of Colorado's best: Mark Wilford and Steve Mammen on the Bishop Finger Crack.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Mmmmmmm, Blues Riff - super good! Manly locks.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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"Gill Crack", Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon. BITDays of high fashion...
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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great shots posted on this thread. Straight Shooter and Sticky Fingers up thread remind me of Transistor Sister over past the Grack area. Short but really clean tips 10c. Anyone know if it is still there after all the rockfall on that side?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sweet shot this one!
Any of you fun hogs do the second pitch?
Tricky... I think I flung a mild dyno both times up it...
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