favorite finger cracks!!!!!!!2222


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Trad climber
the jeep
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 19, 2009 - 12:37pm PT
what are YOUR favorite finger cracks?!?

Devils Tower:

Direct South West (maybe an all time fav?)

Bloodgaurd (what a cherry!)

Indian Creek:

Cyborg (got some OW to keep the rif-raf out)

Sig Saur (that baby needs to be extended!!!!)

Ziji (best of the best???)

Beauty and the Beast (TIGHT fingers in corner)


Fugative (best line in the gally's)

911 Crack (perhaps Mojede's, best find in the butte area?!!)

Dogleg Crack (first .11 in MT, and recently had a second pitch added)

Veedauwoo: (can never spell it right!)

Old dog's new trick (boulder problem, but SPLITTER)

Big Pink (maybe my fingers are too small?? lol)

Red Rocks:

Straight Shooter ('nother splitter)....havnt spent too much time there.....

City of Rocks:

Terror of Tiny Town (thin fingers in a corner....excellent!)





Jan 19, 2009 - 12:40pm PT
Help Me Mr. Wizard to Reunion. Awesome two pitch finger crack link-up.

The Good, the Bad, the Ugly. Super airy finger crack crux up high.

Both on Granite Mountain in AZ.

Bob J.

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Jan 19, 2009 - 12:41pm PT
Bad Ass Mama( see Leavittation thread).

Trad climber
the jeep
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
"Bad Ass Momma" hahaha, i included the big pink, since the woo doesn't really apply!

was thinking of doing the fav wides, but figured only jaybro, scuffs, and elcapinyourazz would reply



Toostoned, AZ
Jan 19, 2009 - 01:02pm PT
Gotta second what Bob J said-
And add Paradise Lost- at the Forks.
Some nice 10a ones at JTree too.

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Jan 19, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
Paradise Lost= lifetime project for me. Tough one as I haven't been to AZ in 10+years.
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Jan 19, 2009 - 01:46pm PT
Mr Natural

Trad climber
Jackson, WY
Jan 19, 2009 - 08:00pm PT
Can't believe nobody said Butterballs yet!


Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jan 19, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
Sir Croft in action...

adam d

Jan 19, 2009 - 08:25pm PT
ok...lower angle, not as badass and this pic doesn't even show the fingers, but
Anti-Jello crack at Dome Rock is one heck of a good time...

and very similar climbing on the east coast...
Sticky Fingers 10c at Cannon

Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jan 19, 2009 - 08:29pm PT
Valley - Serenity and Mr. Natural. Squamish - Crime of the Century
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Jan 19, 2009 - 09:11pm PT
Any 5.12 pitch of Romantic Warrior

Randy Leavitt says, "It's like Astroman, but without the flaws."

I have to agree......
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Jan 19, 2009 - 09:24pm PT
Really nice Thread! Super enjoy the pics and comments.

Just discovered finger cracks. The ones that fit are glorious. :D

Social climber
wuz real!
Jan 19, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
Mr Nat, sherries, butterballs, rat with wings(?)(josh), Equinox, sw direct, a bunch of others, max Factor (you spelled, aka earthborn spirit right, BTW), Blues Riff, some others of those deto west routes, Untold examples too numerous gotta think. clearly, Billy cranks the Rad, however it was, put up. So to speak. That cat wall climb on the monitor, that is the harder rating of the two (fits my weinie fingers).

Bunch more, gotta cogitate. Big Pink? seeing if we are awake? or do you have, short but wide hands that I failed to notice?

The '5.9' solo problem, in the back of the Box canyon, downtown vedauwoo, may get my vote as the best of all time...

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jan 19, 2009 - 09:34pm PT
Not necessarily ranked in order...

Naked Edge, P1
Mr. Natural
Moonlight Buttress, P4&5
Johnny Cat
Wunsch's Dihedral, P1
Fine Jade, P2

Makes my joints hurt just thinkin about 'em.... yum!

Trad climber
Jackson, WY
Jan 19, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
no more votes for butterballs eh? thanks for posting that picture! one of my all time faves. and can you really call blues riff a finger crack?

finger lockin' good at the t-wall is also a memorable one, as is
shredded wheat at rumbling bald.

here's an interesting, slightly OT question... does anyone out there think finger cracks are slightly soft for the grade? I've heard this espoused by a few different folks in a few different places. all of my hardest onsights and redpoints on gear are finger cracks. I'm of the newer school that learned face climbing first, then moved to cracks once I was already an experienced sport climber. Maybe that has something to do with it?

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jan 19, 2009 - 09:53pm PT
A few pics to honor perhaps the most aesthetic feature in rock climbing - the finger crack!

Naked Edge, P1, Eldorado

Johnny Cat, the Creek (I ain't talkin cat litter here!)

Direct Southwest, the Tower

Splitters & Fritters, aka Cat Burglar, the Creek


bay area
Jan 19, 2009 - 11:38pm PT
i second the butterballs vote

and mr natural

and manana (to add to the valley-centrism)

Social climber
wuz real!
Jan 20, 2009 - 12:20am PT
Clearly, Butterballs is one of the best short climbs any where, of any width, even without an armbar!

Trad climber
Butte, America
Jan 20, 2009 - 12:22am PT
Clean Crack (Squamish)
Laughing Crack (Squamish)--Molly's pick
911 Crack (Fantasia,MT)
Thunderbolt and Lightfeet (Mill Creek,MT)
Lady Fingers (Mill Creek,MT)

...others, I'm sure.
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