favorite finger cracks!!!!!!!2222

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P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 19, 2009 - 12:37pm PT
what are YOUR favorite finger cracks?!?


Devils Tower:

Direct South West (maybe an all time fav?)

Bloodgaurd (what a cherry!)


Indian Creek:

Cyborg (got some OW to keep the rif-raf out)

Sig Saur (that baby needs to be extended!!!!)

Ziji (best of the best???)

Beauty and the Beast (TIGHT fingers in corner)


Montana:

Fugative (best line in the gally's)

911 Crack (perhaps Mojede's, best find in the butte area?!!)

Dogleg Crack (first .11 in MT, and recently had a second pitch added)


Veedauwoo: (can never spell it right!)

Old dog's new trick (boulder problem, but SPLITTER)

Big Pink (maybe my fingers are too small?? lol)


Red Rocks:

Straight Shooter ('nother splitter)....havnt spent too much time there.....


City of Rocks:

Terror of Tiny Town (thin fingers in a corner....excellent!)


cheers,

patrick




cyborg...

bob

climber
Jan 19, 2009 - 12:40pm PT
Help Me Mr. Wizard to Reunion. Awesome two pitch finger crack link-up.

The Good, the Bad, the Ugly. Super airy finger crack crux up high.

Both on Granite Mountain in AZ.

Bob J.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Jan 19, 2009 - 12:41pm PT
Bad Ass Mama( see Leavittation thread).
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
"Bad Ass Momma" hahaha, i included the big pink, since the woo doesn't really apply!

was thinking of doing the fav wides, but figured only jaybro, scuffs, and elcapinyourazz would reply


cheers,

patrick
drljefe

climber
Toostoned, AZ
Jan 19, 2009 - 01:02pm PT
Gotta second what Bob J said-
And add Paradise Lost- at the Forks.
Some nice 10a ones at JTree too.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Jan 19, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
Paradise Lost= lifetime project for me. Tough one as I haven't been to AZ in 10+years.
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Jan 19, 2009 - 01:46pm PT
Mr Natural
alpinerockfiend

Trad climber
Jackson, WY
Jan 19, 2009 - 08:00pm PT
Can't believe nobody said Butterballs yet!

...Butterballs.
bachar

Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jan 19, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
Sir Croft in action...

adam d

climber
CA
Jan 19, 2009 - 08:25pm PT
ok...lower angle, not as badass and this pic doesn't even show the fingers, but
Anti-Jello crack at Dome Rock is one heck of a good time...


and very similar climbing on the east coast...
Sticky Fingers 10c at Cannon


Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jan 19, 2009 - 08:29pm PT
Valley - Serenity and Mr. Natural. Squamish - Crime of the Century
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Jan 19, 2009 - 09:11pm PT
Any 5.12 pitch of Romantic Warrior

Randy Leavitt says, "It's like Astroman, but without the flaws."

I have to agree......
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Jan 19, 2009 - 09:24pm PT
Really nice Thread! Super enjoy the pics and comments.

Just discovered finger cracks. The ones that fit are glorious. :D
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Jan 19, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
Mr Nat, sherries, butterballs, rat with wings(?)(josh), Equinox, sw direct, a bunch of others, max Factor (you spelled, aka earthborn spirit right, BTW), Blues Riff, some others of those deto west routes, Untold examples too numerous gotta think. clearly, Billy cranks the Rad, however it was, put up. So to speak. That cat wall climb on the monitor, that is the harder rating of the two (fits my weinie fingers).

Bunch more, gotta cogitate. Big Pink? seeing if we are awake? or do you have, short but wide hands that I failed to notice?




The '5.9' solo problem, in the back of the Box canyon, downtown vedauwoo, may get my vote as the best of all time...
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jan 19, 2009 - 09:34pm PT
Not necessarily ranked in order...

Naked Edge, P1
Mr. Natural
Butterballs
Moonlight Buttress, P4&5
Johnny Cat
Wunsch's Dihedral, P1
Exasperator
Fine Jade, P2

Makes my joints hurt just thinkin about 'em.... yum!
alpinerockfiend

Trad climber
Jackson, WY
Jan 19, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
no more votes for butterballs eh? thanks for posting that picture! one of my all time faves. and can you really call blues riff a finger crack?

finger lockin' good at the t-wall is also a memorable one, as is
shredded wheat at rumbling bald.

here's an interesting, slightly OT question... does anyone out there think finger cracks are slightly soft for the grade? I've heard this espoused by a few different folks in a few different places. all of my hardest onsights and redpoints on gear are finger cracks. I'm of the newer school that learned face climbing first, then moved to cracks once I was already an experienced sport climber. Maybe that has something to do with it?
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jan 19, 2009 - 09:53pm PT
A few pics to honor perhaps the most aesthetic feature in rock climbing - the finger crack!

Naked Edge, P1, Eldorado


Johnny Cat, the Creek (I ain't talkin cat litter here!)


Direct Southwest, the Tower


Splitters & Fritters, aka Cat Burglar, the Creek

Marshall

climber
bay area
Jan 19, 2009 - 11:38pm PT
i second the butterballs vote


and mr natural


and manana (to add to the valley-centrism)
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Jan 20, 2009 - 12:20am PT
Clearly, Butterballs is one of the best short climbs any where, of any width, even without an armbar!
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Jan 20, 2009 - 12:22am PT
Clean Crack (Squamish)
Laughing Crack (Squamish)--Molly's pick
911 Crack (Fantasia,MT)
Thunderbolt and Lightfeet (Mill Creek,MT)
Lady Fingers (Mill Creek,MT)

...others, I'm sure.
CAC

Gym climber
Clairemont
Jan 20, 2009 - 12:43am PT
If anyone knows of a better finger crack than the 250+' continuous Bony Fingers on the Whale in Whitney Portal, please let me know.

slobmonster

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
Jan 20, 2009 - 01:04am PT
Side note regarding the above:
extend Sig Sauer? Do you have toothpicks for fingers???!!??!

There are some easier (and *excellent*) finger cracks pitches on and around Calaveras Dome. Pitch 5 of Sands of time, pitch 5 of Gemini Cracks come to mind. Both 5.8 and they are STELLAR.

Trad

Trad climber
northern CA
Jan 20, 2009 - 01:04am PT
Yes, Bony Fingers!



Fingerlocks at Sugarloaf is one of my favorites, too. There are some pictures in rhyang's thread:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=766860

martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Jan 20, 2009 - 01:09am PT
so many......but butterballs has got to be the best.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Jan 20, 2009 - 01:15am PT
Mr. N. looks so nice. Is it cause it fits so nice too ?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 20, 2009 - 01:18am PT
There are one or two finger cracks here


D
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Jan 20, 2009 - 01:22am PT
No way!

-knowing emoticon...
Tami

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Jan 20, 2009 - 01:35am PT
Arright, yah, Butterballs gets my vote tho' I only followed it.

I know I remember Mr. Natural but ....errrrrrrrmm....have no memory of it.

Clean Crack at Squish is no mo. The railway closed it down. Dang.

Crime of the Century is not whuttit used to be....(shorter and less greasy )

Exasperator , on the Grand Wall area of the Squamish ( Stawamus ) Chief izza great finger crack.

Whuttabout alpine rock. IIRC ( and I don't :-D ) McTech Arete on Crescent Spire in the Bugs was a great finger crack.
Or am I on crack ?



ninjah

Big Wall climber
mammoth lakes, ca
Jan 20, 2009 - 02:09am PT
Johno

Big Wall climber
Cape Town / Japan
Jan 20, 2009 - 02:37am PT
Check out the finger cracks on the Lotus Flower Tower. Pick one & send, for 20 pitches!
TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day
Jan 20, 2009 - 09:42am PT
Cramming
adam d

climber
CA
Jan 20, 2009 - 10:31am PT
Tami's right...that P2 (i think) crux fingercrack pitch on McTech Arete is stellar.

Still sorta feels like cragging with a view on the Crescent Spires though...
but what a view it is.
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jan 20, 2009 - 10:41am PT
mr natural is super!try the MAGNUS, a obscure route up rock crk, not in the new guide book but I think it's in older version of eastside guide book, a bit of an approach but worth the effort.
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Jan 20, 2009 - 10:51am PT
There are almost too many to name on Devil's Tower but Digital Extraction is the one that comes to mind first. Again, In no particular order:

P1 The Naked Edge,
Butterballs
Sig Sauer
Mr Natural
Crack a Go Go


Ouch!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Jan 20, 2009 - 11:11am PT
Fun thread brotherman! AND it's getting some action...pretty wild!


Here's some favorite local finger cracks...


Druthers Crack


The Fugitive


Dogleg Crack


Tigger

I'm hurtin . . .

Ice climber
land of cheese and beer
Jan 20, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
Carols Crack .11a, Devils Tower. Beautiful, it just goes and goes
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
haha!!

yeah, put the big pink in to see who was paying attention....only jaybro picked that one up!!!

seems like sig saur would have an obvious extention, since the anchors are only 10-15 feet past where the true splitter begins....

i only climbed it once, but it looks like it stays in the yellows for at least 30 to 40 more feet, before turning into .65 or smaller... have to give er' a closer look in march :D



a couple of forgotten:

Max Factor (thought of this on the way to butte...one of the finer at the woo)

digital extraction (duh), has anyone ever done the second pitch besides hong?!?! just a rumor im trying to confirm....

deli express (the harder version of carol's)...another hong classic!


some sweet shots of some nice finger cracks!!! keep em' coming!!!




digital extraction



cheers,

patrick

P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2009 - 01:51pm PT
the route me n tar climbed in eldo was a super nice moderate finger crack also....

was it 'over the hill' ????



i think thats the name....pitch 2 anyways









old dog's




oh and middle, and left crack too, for short finger work!!! IC
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jan 20, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
Uh...obvious omission:

Equinox!
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2009 - 05:03pm PT


elder enjoying the perfect locks on 'Big Pink'
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Jan 20, 2009 - 07:33pm PT
Angel Crack at Castle Rock in Tumwater Canyon near Leavenworth, WA. It is quite short, so doesn't measure up to the lengths of these other climbs but it crams in some cool fierce finger jams on granite. It is a NW classic first freed by Fred Beckey and many a trad climber has worked their technique on Angel Crack and Midnight Rock and then gone on to Yosemite. Its my favorite becasue it is where I first learned.
Darryl Cramer

Social climber
Jan 20, 2009 - 07:36pm PT
Pinky Paralysis!
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Jan 20, 2009 - 08:02pm PT
Serinity Crack ~ a bit scarred-up but still a nice outing.

Lost at Sea- Needles ~ a beautiful finger sized gem

The Emperor ~ Needles - this gem of a route was called by Randy Leavitt "the best crack at the Needles" Quite a statement considering how many great finger cracks are there.
rick d

climber
tucson, az
Jan 21, 2009 - 08:54am PT
"tips" on this and that is stellar.

I always loved the last pitch of "white punks"

and many others.....
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Jan 21, 2009 - 11:59am PT
South Crack, pretty durn nice.
ninjah

Big Wall climber
mammoth lakes, ca
Jan 21, 2009 - 12:44pm PT
orgaszim 11a in the owens river gorge, bolted but very nice, O siverback in pine creek sweet too 5.12 tips liback! o ya!
MVM

Trad climber
Jan 21, 2009 - 02:55pm PT
I can't imagine any of the above listed routes being better than the Moonlight Buttress. Shityeah! Yeehaw! Hotdamn!
dickcilley

Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
Jan 22, 2009 - 09:41am PT
Mirage is clearly better than Butterballs and you can do the Owl Roof while you are overthere.Hey Kingsburys,Tell us more about those Montucky fingercracks. Cosmic Debris aint bad either.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jan 22, 2009 - 10:00am PT
Just a boulder problem, but "Jaws" at Woodson is one sweet crack.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Jan 22, 2009 - 10:04am PT
well...

Dogleg Crack, Montana's first .11, was done in the late 60's out on the Wedge in the Humbug Spires by the Kanzler brothers...I may have the date slightly off...may have been early 70's, and there could have been others involved beyond the Kanzler bros...the history of the Dirty Sox Club is still pretty hazy...


TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Jan 22, 2009 - 10:09am PT

Dancing Fingers

This one is a Mojede FA...a bit stout for .10b...
kinnikinik

Trad climber
b.c.c
Jan 22, 2009 - 10:15am PT
Rubicon in JT, gets a vote
Ryan Tetz

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 22, 2009 - 10:44am PT
3rd pitch of Serenity. Also the next steep pitch after that on Sons

The Fracture at sugarloaf.

The 2nd pitch on central pillar.

First pitch of Moratorium.

Numerous splitter pitches on the Chouinard Herbert
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2009 - 01:20pm PT
the moonlight looks amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!!

here's a shot of mojedes infamous '911 crack'


a thin crack requiring many tiny nuts and cams down to a grey tcu (crux piece!)
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jan 22, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
Tales
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 22, 2009 - 04:22pm PT
Thin Ice at the Needles.

I think there might be a few other finger cracks there, too.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Feb 2, 2009 - 02:28pm PT
Simian Rage



P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2009 - 06:29pm PT
bump for simian rage!!!

a dwight bishop test piece originally done with a rope, turned into a highball


side note: felt easier than the original proposed grade, but we were thinking that the starting flake had shifted, allowing one to bypass the tips looks and gain a face hold around the corner, with much better feet...


-patrick
richross

Trad climber
gunks,ny
Feb 3, 2009 - 06:54pm PT
A Dare by the Sea,Maine.Photo by Geoff Ohland
apogee

climber
Feb 3, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
Don't know if anyone mentioned this yet:
Dave's Deviation, Tahquitz

Flaring, never quite bomber (for my big mitts), and classic all the way.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Feb 3, 2009 - 07:04pm PT
I'm kinda partial to this one, but not because it's a great climb or anything.

Just because, well, I named the route. And it had its 15 minutes of fame on
the cover of a guidebook once.

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 3, 2009 - 07:13pm PT
I've always been partial to this one. Third pitch of Borderline on the Chief, a route I put up with two partners about ten years ago, and never really got any good pictures of myself. (So see note below the photo re copyright, cuz I borrowed this one.)


Okay, here's the photo note. I found this shot on Cascadeclimbers.com, taken by "dberdinka". A little digging leads me to believe dberdinka is Supertopo poster Slabby D, who, I hope, won't mind me putting the pic up here. I'll take it down if he asks me to.
richross

Trad climber
gunks,ny
Feb 3, 2009 - 08:24pm PT
Rich Romano on True Grip,Gunks.Photo Geoff Ohland.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Feb 3, 2009 - 08:29pm PT
Has anyone mentioned "Ankles Away" at the Needles?

It is a superb 2 pitch gem, first pitch is 5.11a stemming, second pitch is 5.11c/d thin crack. Not to be missed on your trip to the Needles. Super rock on this one folks!

Looking down as Tony Sartin follows tthe first pitch.





Tony leads on the 2nd pitch. Lots of thin gear needed for this long pitch.





The Needles are a crack climbers paradise!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 4, 2009 - 12:38pm PT
The Needles really are the shiiet for fingerin' cracks!

Oh cripes, I'll post these haggard pictures of the Breashears' crack on Wunsch's Diehedral...




Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
Feb 5, 2009 - 04:55pm PT
Finger bump.
Anastasia

climber
Not here
Feb 5, 2009 - 04:55pm PT
JTree
Uncle Fester...
seamus mcshane

climber
Feb 5, 2009 - 10:13pm PT
Quest for Glory or Power? .10d Eagle Lake Cliffs
(Left of Space Truckin')
Space Walk .11+ also Eagle Lake Cliffs
The whole area is phenomenal, superfine granite.
Dano SOLOED Space Walk onsight in the early 1980's, he may have only been 18...
Go try it. It's Quality!!! The onsight that is, not the solo, unless you're into that sort of thing. (I know, I know, sure badasses abound, everyone BASE jumps, and .11+ is flip-flop stuff for the new generation.)
Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
X
Feb 5, 2009 - 10:16pm PT
butterballs..rostrum
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Feb 5, 2009 - 10:27pm PT
Reunion, Granite Mountain


The amazing Help Me Mr. Wizard pitch, Granite Mountain (arrow)


Paradise Lost, Paradise Forks, AZ


Quick Death var, Rappel Rock, AZ


Red Planet (13a), Sedona's hardest crack? (arrow)

Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
X
Feb 5, 2009 - 10:33pm PT
eww, eww...the good book....very nice
Double D

climber
Feb 5, 2009 - 10:38pm PT
Butterballs
Spacewalk for sure
Hotline
Bachar's Crack
the 5.9 boulder crack above C4

and...

I stroked and I poked 'til my wrist got numb
on a surly little crack called Dynamo Hum.

alpinerockfiend

Trad climber
The American West
Feb 5, 2009 - 10:53pm PT
Yo Tarbuster, are your forearms about to explode from sending so hard?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 5, 2009 - 10:56pm PT
They are permanently ruined ... kaput!
bachar

Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:12pm PT
If you're ever in Guadalajara ??? .... "Fingers of Steel" (I think), 5.11c, perfect splitter.



Barely flashed it... second knuckle to off knuckle - whatever that means!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:22pm PT
Cali Knight!





fotos Off White
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:27pm PT
Did I miss the shots of Sphinx Crack?

Anyone here done it, and Equinox, and care to comment on a comparison?

Cilley? You must have done both of those, Comments?
richross

Trad climber
gunks,ny
Feb 5, 2009 - 11:33pm PT
Dan Goodwin on Sphinx Crack.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Feb 6, 2009 - 01:49am PT

Dynamite photo, Richross.
ryanb

climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 6, 2009 - 02:12am PT




"The Passanger" South Early Winter Spire, North Cascades, WA. 5.11+ IV. Mostly thin crack with a one bolted pitch and some token wide.
dickcilley

Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
Feb 6, 2009 - 08:47am PT
Did the ffa of the red tower aid crack at Deerhorn.I doubt its seen a second .Is it in somebodies back yard now?How bout the back side of Robbins aka the lie detector.San Diego is loaded with great finger cracks.
Brock

Trad climber
RENO, NV
Feb 6, 2009 - 09:43am PT
Anybody dare climb "Mr. Natural" since the rockfalls over the last several years? Sure wish they would move that climb to a safer area.
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2009 - 03:33pm PT
straight shooter

P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2009 - 03:43pm PT
fugitive

mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Feb 6, 2009 - 04:33pm PT
My "favorite" only because they are at my folks' cabin, and are the closest.

The prominent boulder in the upper right is this unclimbed overhanging, barn-door lay-backing special.


I haven't managed to conquer this splitter in the area, either.

It looks like hand-size, but it climbs like tight fingers.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 6, 2009 - 05:12pm PT
It looks like hand-size, but it climbs like tight fingers.

Reminds me of what is probably my all-time favorite finger crack. Favorite not because it was somehow better than any other perfect splitter, but because it was not a gaping off-width. It was about 1,500 ft above the valley floor (no, not that stupid Capital-V Valley in California) and really obvious. We assumed it must be pretty wide if we could see it so clearly from below, and that it would probably shut us down, but it turned out to be a full pitch of perfect fingers and thin hands, way up in the sky above a deserted valley, surrounded by beautiful peaks.

We got shut down by a fairly blank headwall a bit higher, and barely made it back to the valley by dark, but it had been a fun day. Ten new pitches on a face no one else had ever been on, with the special reward of a ropelength of beautiful moderate fingers instead of the six-inch horror show we expected!

I wish I had some pictures of it to share.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 6, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
holy toledo this looks good. where is it? i love slightly-less-than vert thin cracks that let you use your feet 'n stuff...

TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Feb 6, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
That's Straight Shooter in Red Rocks (Brass Wall)...really fun!

http://mountainproject.com/v/nevada/red_rock/pine_creek_canyon/105732428
Gobi

Trad climber
Orange CA
Feb 6, 2009 - 08:00pm PT
Red Planet at Sedona looks sick! I'm trying that if i ever go.

Equinox in Jtree is cool but painful

Heart of Stone on Fairview looks really good.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 6, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
Heart of Stone...
Big long enduro corner sort 'a gig, mostly fingers, left facing,
Tightens up right at the top.

Lots of varied & interesting climbing on that route's other pitches too.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 6, 2009 - 08:33pm PT
Was it one of you Kingsbury boys that mentioned Southwest Direct on Devils Tower?



FFA by Henry Barber.
Starts out as seen in the picture, 5.7 fingers.
Gets considerably harder!
This is a good one to take to the top too...

Wish I had pictures of Digital Extraction, also at Devils Tower and mentioned upthread.
That is one of the all-time straight in finger cracks.
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
Thats the one tar!!!!

(i brought my friend up it for the first time last spring and he flashed it after four morning beers!!!!) luckily i only had 2....

those two are favorites for sure!!!!


nice shots of breashers crack up thread!!

cheers,

patrick



edit: did u climb the second pitch of digital tar? i remember you said u did, and then another time thought u didn't....it looks good, but alot more grassy than the first



Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 6, 2009 - 09:36pm PT
I know for sure I toted the rope up the first pitch of Digital.
Smooth as silk...

I just can't remember whether we did the second.
I'd have to ask Nancy Prichard, my partner: haven't spoken with her in years ...

The other route we were discussing, also a finger crack & a stout 5.11, which I said was like stemming between two cracks (while getting good finger locks in the primary crack), is I think, the McCarthy West Face.

McCarthy North Face also has some fingers, but not as hard as these others we're discussing.
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
yeah the first pitch is sweet for sure.


the McCarthy West Face original looks sweet!!! one that i haven't yet tried!!! the crux is the very top yes?

franks told me stories of trying that thing and being able to 'spit at the anchors', but not being able to pull the final move.

cheers,

patrick
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 7, 2009 - 12:07am PT
Yes I think so; crux at the top of McCarthy West.
I'm looking in my guidebook and the description fits (Pitch 2: climb the right most of three cracks, 95 feet, 5.11c)

Can't remember if the crux is necessarily technical; like most things at Devils Tower, you have stamina issues to contend with primarily.

Sue Wint followed; she has tremendous "leg span" and was able to just let go of her hands most of that pitch!
This is a very aesthetic climb; at least concerning the crux lead.

I wanted to top out, but it was getting late and the women were cold.
(This cool artsy chick named Tyr, a bit over her head, sort of fell up that second pitch)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 7, 2009 - 01:00am PT
Blues Riff,
Though primarily a tight hand crack; you'd better be good with sequenced finger locks if you want to get through the crux!






Goldfinger, though, that's gotta be the big daddy of Tuolumne finger cracks!
(I have no experience with it)
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Feb 7, 2009 - 03:43am PT
Here's one of Colorado's best: Mark Wilford and Steve Mammen on the Bishop Finger Crack.

BrassNuts

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Feb 7, 2009 - 12:25pm PT
Mmmmmmm, Blues Riff - super good! Manly locks.
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Feb 7, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
"Gill Crack", Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon. BITDays of high fashion...


Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Feb 7, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
great shots posted on this thread. Straight Shooter and Sticky Fingers up thread remind me of Transistor Sister over past the Grack area. Short but really clean tips 10c. Anyone know if it is still there after all the rockfall on that side?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 7, 2009 - 01:16pm PT
Sweet shot this one!
Any of you fun hogs do the second pitch?
Tricky... I think I flung a mild dyno both times up it...

martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Feb 7, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
what is bishop finger crack rated? looks good
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Feb 7, 2009 - 02:00pm PT
I believe the Bishop Crack is 12b/c. There's also a fine 'sister' crack on the backside called Craftwerk that's 11c or so. Here are a couple of other classic finger lockers....

The amazing crux pitch of Heart of Stone, Tuolumne. JR climbing:


The sustained crux pitch of Deli Express, Devil's Tower:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 7, 2009 - 02:08pm PT
'Never seen a picture from Heart of Stone's big corner: Nice!
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Feb 7, 2009 - 02:32pm PT
The left side of this sweet little desert finger crack fell off, sometime after this picture was taken. Seemed solid at the time!

MH2

climber
Feb 7, 2009 - 03:59pm PT
ryanb, huh? The Passenger, eh? Seems like there ought to be a Bryan B. connection, there.

So here is Bryan, high above a valley, getting us into more than the average number of memorable moments per climb.

Great pictures, people.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 7, 2009 - 04:44pm PT
Brock,

> Anybody dare climb "Mr. Natural" since the rockfalls over the last several years? Sure wish they would move that climb to a safer area.

Yes. Here's Jared Brown leading it in April 2008:









http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/rep/08427.htm

Also, the photo posted by Marshall upthread was the day before this.

It doesn't seem "that close" to the rockfall path. The person who was killed at the base of Apron Jam was hit by a block which impacted up and right, then rolled down along the base.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 7, 2009 - 04:55pm PT
And here's another of the Heart of Stone corner:



photo of Mike Kerzhner by Jared Brown
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Feb 7, 2009 - 07:59pm PT
I can't really compete with the preceding shots, but here's a few more.

Rubicon, JT:


Cannibal, Little Egypt:


Pirate, Suicide ('E'):


Tight toe blues:


Anyone have a photo of Speed of Life or Cosmic Debris?
alpinerockfiend

Trad climber
The American West
Feb 7, 2009 - 08:35pm PT
Is Speed of Life a finger crack? I remember a short fingers section, but isn't most of it hands to a short fist crux to more hands/liebacking?

Regardless, it would be rad to see some pics of it. What a great route!
Friend

climber
Feb 7, 2009 - 10:41pm PT
This thread really makes me drool. Every route, either I've done it and loved it, or I wanna do it real bad!!!! I have some new ones for my to-do list now

Already mentioned, Sig Saur. Past the anchors it looked like it went from hard to impossible real quick....


Already mentioned, classic Needles finger crack




Eliminator, classic Vegas, not as pure as the CLoud Tower thin pitch though



HEre is a shot of Speed of Life since you asked - hand crack from what i recall tho..... First pitch has a nice finger crack move. Trail rope indicates steepness! As good as Blues Riff? Damn close IMHO
alpinerockfiend

Trad climber
The American West
Feb 7, 2009 - 10:57pm PT
Nice Speed o Life shot. "As good as Blues Riff?" Better, is my take.
dustonian

climber
Feb 7, 2009 - 11:00pm PT
Gotta chime in for Bony Fingers on the Whale.... hot hot hot!!!

Exasperator at Squamish.... Butterballs of course... oh yeah, Ten Years After up at lower Yosemite Falls!!

tithaf

Trad climber
Utah
Feb 7, 2009 - 11:07pm PT
Wait a minute, on Ankles Away isn't that dihedral off at the bottom of pitch 2 ?!?! Sh#t, I torched myself on those incipient moves at the bottom for nothing?!

An often missed classic is Neurosurgeon at Button Rock Reservoir - and yeah, nobody has posted a pic of Equinox?!
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
Feb 7, 2009 - 11:19pm PT
Fat fingers is my favorite size.

Feels real good in there. Feet, knott so much.

Dance it out. You'll be fine.
Gobi

Trad climber
Orange CA
Feb 8, 2009 - 12:55am PT
I cant wait for the summer so I can go do Speed of Life, That climb looks soooooooooooo good.


Pink Flamingo


Cedrics Deep Sea Fish Market Photo by AJ Burch.



Red Zinger


Butterballs

It's a hard choice but Johnny Cat might be my favorite finger carck
Brendan

Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
Feb 8, 2009 - 01:18am PT
With many favorites mentioned, I have to add the second pitch of Central pillar frenzy. Not too hard, tons of fun.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Feb 8, 2009 - 01:38am PT
That's the one, Jello! Have you been back there, since it's spontaneous combustion? Wild! I thought I was in the wrong place, until I figured out what had happened. Geologic catastrophism in our own lifetime. Lithic, punctuated equalibrium, of you will!

Somewhere, I have slides I took from the top, of Supertopo's own Manny Rangel, leading it!

It's hard to pick a 'best' given so many climbs. But Johhny Cat could be it!

The J-crack on Lumpy is pretty darn classic, too.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Feb 8, 2009 - 01:52am PT
No, Bro, I haven't been back, and I don't think I want to go back since I feel somehow at least a little bit responsible for hastenning the demise of a fine feature!

Someone mentioned Neurosurgeon:

Dudeman

Trad climber
California/Idaho/Beyond
Feb 8, 2009 - 02:41am PT
Okay with all that eye candy I got excited and had to pony up also.
Greg Moore styling on Angel Fingers high in the East Humboldt Mountains of northeastern Nevada.

Andrew Stone enjoys the 5th Pitch of Guides Wall in The Tetons

Dave Weber casual on Beware Of Nesting Egos on Elephoant Rock at the City Of Rocks Idaho

Greg Moore cruising on Pole Cat in Castle Rocks State Park, Idaho

Greg Moore locking into Thin Slice at The City Of Rocks, Idaho

Uriah Halloway at the crux of The Splitter at Castle Rocks, Idaho

Greg Moore on Terror Of Tiny Town, City Of Rocks, Idaho
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2009 - 07:25pm PT


tbow on 'bloodguard'
Andy D

Trad climber
Colorado
Feb 12, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
FAO P Kingsbury
Did 2nd pitch of Digital Extraction in 2000 - at the recomendation of BrassNuts I believe. It was twice as long as the 1st but no moves any harder. Unbelievably good - easily better than Bloodguard. I heard it might be a bit overgrown now though.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Feb 12, 2009 - 10:54pm PT
Man, that Private Idaho shizzle looks like the real dizzle!
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Feb 12, 2009 - 10:57pm PT
Awesome looking climbs here, but I do have to chime in about our local crag.

Cannibal at Little Egypt, is not a finger crack, it's thin hands, but lately I think the beta is plug a piece and lay the f-in thing back until the knob and hope you are not setting up a groundfall.

Tom
pip the dog

Mountain climber
the outer bitterroots
Feb 12, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
as always, late to the dance.

so many of the routes mentioned are _sweet_. (skinny dudes like me especially like finger cracks). i guess if i had to think on the intergalactic scale, butterballs would likely win.

but my vote in this thread would be for a route from the turf of my youth -- the turf i suspect all of us forever use as the measure of all routes.

this said, so how's'about Airation at Cathedral. _sweet_

richross' vote for A Dare By The Sea also struck me. also a place from my youth. what a pretty route and a pretty place to be, the waves so close. that and it was first done by a guy dear to me, a rock stud kind enough to take a then young teen under his wing. now sadly gone from us, Jim Adair.
~~~

great thread. i have been adding stuff unknown to me to my travel plans/wish list.


^,,^
scuffy b

climber
just below the San Andreas
Feb 13, 2009 - 12:09pm PT
Hey Survival,

which Private Idaho are you referring to? Is there a picture of
it in this thread?
If you mean the one at City of Rocks, that's a really good
climb, but the finger section has so many holds you don't have
to touch the crack at all.
Skip the 100-ft convenience anchor and finish the pitch. 5.6
roof finish awaits you.
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
thanks for the input andy!!1

according to frank, he thought that the pitch had never been repeated.....very cool to hear that u did it....def on my to do list....was gonna try it last season, but it was full of grass, and i didnt want to garden on lead.......

the rangers recently cleaned refractal last fall, a fingers pitch i havent tried but Mike F. said was one of his fav's at the tower!!!



torpedo bay, long canyon



YayP

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Feb 13, 2009 - 04:30pm PT
"Splitters" from Estes Park, CO come to mind: J-Crack, Mission Impossible, Loose Ends, and Cheap Date on The Book, Lumpy Ridge. Little Twin Owls Finger Crack also on Lumpy. Days of Heaven on the Rock of Ages in RMNP. So much to do in your backyard, I miss Estes!

BrassNuts

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Feb 22, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
Keepin this one alive... Crimpergirl on P2 of Beggar's Buttress, Lower Cathedral

Crimpergirl

Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Feb 22, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
Whoa - that was super fun!!

Edit:

Here is BrassNuts on Flight Deck in Indian Creek in the fall -



Later we went to Red Rocks...leave it to BN to find the most Indian Creek looking feature there!

dustonian

climber
Feb 22, 2009 - 02:57pm PT
Nice shot of Beggar's!! That pitch is bitchin'.... the last crux pitch also killer fingers.

What about the second pitch of Fine Jade on the Rectory...?

Oh yeah, how do you add photos to a post?
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Feb 22, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
"Blood on the Tracks", Dylan Wall, San Rafael Swell, UT

richross

Trad climber
gunks,ny
Feb 22, 2009 - 06:28pm PT
Vern Clevenger on Mellow Yellow,Gunks 1980.

Crimpergirl

Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Feb 22, 2009 - 08:52pm PT
With corrected horizon. :) Excellent belay technique there Bob R! I bet BrassNuts thinks Bob is awake! Heh heh!

drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Mar 13, 2009 - 01:34am PT
BUMP

Because I fear the wide.
d-know

Trad climber
electric lady land
Mar 19, 2009 - 06:58pm PT
bump 4 finger lookin goods.
and to keep the climbing
shizz up front.


tkingsbury or any of you
other montana cats,
can you shed any more
light on the kanzler
bros.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Mar 19, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
I don't know a ton...before my time...

You might find this interesting:

http://dirtysoxclub.wordpress.com/

http://firstascentpress.com/dirtysoxclub.html

Cheers!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Mar 20, 2009 - 10:21am PT
Hoots

climber
Tacoma, Toyota
Mar 20, 2009 - 11:26am PT
Finger lickin' lock bump!
Jaws at Mt. Woodson

no, i do not know how to resize! its an OW! ahhhh!
barbarianism

Trad climber
Blurgemanvilletowne
Dec 28, 2009 - 03:26am PT
brilliant thread.....
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 28, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
Nice bump for eye candy!
chum

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 28, 2009 - 04:02pm PT

Goldfinger! Only 5.12a...
Goldfinger!
Goldfinger!
Credit: chum
richross

Trad climber
Dec 28, 2009 - 04:37pm PT
Mark Sonnenfeld on Supercrack.

Ray Olson

Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
Dec 28, 2009 - 05:00pm PT
my faves -

Mirage
Tips
Butterballs
Rostrum 5th

way better is the overhanging
Red Tower aid crack at Deerhorn
that Dick Cilley mentioned upthread -

Dick, Piggot and I were there, but only
top-roped it, Rick did the "upper V" part,
I didn't even try, just blown away by getting
there, having climbed such a spectacular and
difficult finger crack - traversing into the start of
the crack from the left, others (Bill Ramsey)
went straight up and did the bottom part too.

Cilley, has the Red Tower crack had a lead to
your knowedge?

How 'bout the amazing face to the left?

wicked...

oh, one of the Jardine thin cracks at Arch is
pretty good too - Cosmic Debris* is way up
there also, never got it tho...

*as good as the Red Tower, but the Tower
is in a better position, on an overhanging
prow-buttress.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Dec 28, 2009 - 09:32pm PT
Hollywood and Vine
Hollywood and Vine
Credit: mike m
Hollywood and Vine is another classic DT finger crack.
Credit: mike m
Other good ones not mentioned include the second pitch of McCarthy North Face, the first pitch of McCarthy West, Casper College, the first couple of pitches of Tulgey Wood, the Hong Variation and although it is a steming problem El Matador is mostly fingers on both sides.
El Matador
El Matador
Credit: mike m
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Dec 28, 2009 - 10:04pm PT
How did I miss this thread?

And how can there be a finger crack thread without anything from Trout Creek?
Mari on JR Token
Mari on JR Token
Credit: Ghost
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Oct 19, 2010 - 11:22pm PT
Here is another really good one!
Credit: martygarrison
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Oct 19, 2010 - 11:55pm PT
One Way Sunset at DT though only about 70ft of fingers has to have some of the best locks and unlike a lot of routes there it is not in a dihedral.
Climbersat the top of the first pitch of one way sunset.
Climbersat the top of the first pitch of one way sunset.
Credit: mike m
Looking down on the crux of the first pitch of One Way Sunset one swee...
Looking down on the crux of the first pitch of One Way Sunset one sweet ass section of fingers
Credit: mike m
Here is a couple of nice ones I found by Nemo in the Black Hills
Credit: mike m
Credit: mike m
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Oct 20, 2010 - 12:13am PT
Romano's at Spidersweb in the Adirondacks is good.
Derek

climber
Oct 20, 2010 - 02:27pm PT
Yeah, Romano's is superb, but White Knight right next to it is purer fingers. For that matter, so is the initial crack section of Fear and Loathing. You kind of can't go wrong at the Web, I guess...
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Oct 20, 2010 - 02:52pm PT
Pitch 1 of Blind Faith on the Rostrum........Pics anybody?
crtch

climber
Oct 20, 2010 - 05:00pm PT
Davidson's Dihedral at Paradise Forks is yellow aliens all the way.
richross

Trad climber
Oct 20, 2010 - 05:15pm PT
Doug Madara on Ken's Crack,Gunks.

edejom

Boulder climber
Butte, America
Oct 20, 2010 - 05:36pm PT
Credit: edejom
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Feb 3, 2011 - 07:20pm PT


The p2/p3 crack on Touchstone.

GO
Mitch Underhill

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Feb 3, 2011 - 08:10pm PT
Spacewalk.
Spacewalk.
Credit: Mitch Underhill
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Sep 23, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
Bump!



Extra Lean, 2nd Meat Wall
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Sep 23, 2011 - 04:35pm PT
Found these 2 short, but challenging, lines within the last 2 days...






... also heard that Dick Cilley was heading back towards these parts--coincidence?



T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jan 11, 2012 - 03:11am PT
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 11, 2012 - 09:43am PT
What is Bad Ass Baby rated these days? .11b/c as of '83ish, kinda highball. Pads would be nice. Harder than Short Circuit for me. Trickier jams; no simple Plug 'n Go affair.

I'm guessing ratings creep has victimized this tricky gem of a splitzer..
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jan 10, 2013 - 12:01am PT
Finger bump.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Jan 10, 2013 - 12:25am PT
Practicing finger crack on this boulder today. Turns out I don't know what to do with my feet.

Credit: limpingcrab
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 10, 2013 - 04:02am PT
Awesome thread!

Clean crack (tech)

Milk run corner (pump)

South crack was real fun, the crack part at least- me & my friend onsight simuled it & had a nice slab epic when our rope was shorter than the distance between the bolts up top.

Fingerfood- a boulder problem in the outback(I think) at JT was so fun I did it 10 times in a row!

Wish I had some pics to add.


snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Jan 10, 2013 - 04:31am PT
Crux pitch of Don Juan at The Needles
deschamps

Trad climber
Out and about
Jan 10, 2013 - 11:39am PT
Terminator at the waterfall. Perfect .4 fingers (12a) to an okay shake, to 12c first nuckle to second nuckle to tips lieback, to poor shake, to V3 boulder problem guarding the chains.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Jan 11, 2013 - 11:24am PT
Never bee out to see these, but they sure look pretty proud:

http://www.climbing.com/news/immaculate-concepcion/

http://megapeewee.blogspot.com/2010/12/pushing-my-luck.html
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 11, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
If ever you guys are up in squamish you should head up to the alpine to do this route. Its at North Joffre creek ( Duffy Lake Road east of Pemberton) 2 hours drive north and 2 hours easy hike in. 11 -12 pitches to the top but you rap the route to get off.


pitch one mighty Mouse
pitch one mighty Mouse
Credit: Bruce Kay

pitch 2
pitch 2
Credit: Bruce Kay

pitch 3  ( Spliffulator up to the left)
pitch 3 ( Spliffulator up to the left)
Credit: Bruce Kay

pitch 4
pitch 4
Credit: Bruce Kay

pitch 5 (hand crack)
pitch 5 (hand crack)
Credit: Bruce Kay

pitch 6 (or 5 if you link)
pitch 6 (or 5 if you link)
Credit: Bruce Kay

another view of pitch 5 or 6 fingers
another view of pitch 5 or 6 fingers
Credit: Bruce Kay

pitch 7  - the crack thins to grey tcu and RP so its face climbing mos...
pitch 7 - the crack thins to grey tcu and RP so its face climbing mostly
Credit: Bruce Kay


For mor beta google squamishrockclimbers.com

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 11, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
Whoa! This is one mighty mouse indeed. Where is it?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 11, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
I'll edi see above
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Jan 11, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
Shake and Bake 5.10d Sonora Pass
Shake and Bake 5.10d Sonora Pass
Credit: briham89
Gobi

Trad climber
Orange CA
Jan 12, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
I love finger cracks!

Brother In Arms <br/>
Photo by Rob Kepley
Brother In Arms
Photo by Rob Kepley
Credit: Gobi

From Switzerland With Love
From Switzerland With Love
Credit: Gobi

photo not found
Missing photo ID#214526

photo not found
Missing photo ID#283734

Venturi Effect headwall
Venturi Effect headwall
Credit: Gobi

Siebe Vanhee on the Cobra Crack
Siebe Vanhee on the Cobra Crack
Credit: Gobi

Mason Earle on Humble Pie
Mason Earle on Humble Pie
Credit: Gobi

Ian Strachan on Equinox
Ian Strachan on Equinox
Credit: Gobi

Stingray
Stingray
Credit: Gobi

Mason Earle on Winner Takes All
Mason Earle on Winner Takes All
Credit: Gobi

Hong Kong Phooey
Hong Kong Phooey
Credit: Gobi

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 12, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
nice selection gobi - where's photo #4?
Norwegian

Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
Jan 12, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
expando
Credit: Norwegian
overuse
photo not found
Missing photo ID#274061
the remedy crack
Credit: Norwegian
back to work
fracture at sugarloaf
fracture at sugarloaf
Credit: Norwegian
fingerlock at sugarloaf
fingerlock at sugarloaf
Credit: Norwegian
hyperspace hyper yphyer hypersace perhypersac
hyperspace hyper yphyer hypersace perhypersac
Credit: Norwegian
never the same
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Jul 9, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
Ladd (8) seemed to enjoy this one...

Pulling through the crux...
Pulling through the crux...
Credit: mojede


Gunning for the top
Gunning for the top
Credit: mojede

gonzo chemist

climber
Fort Collins, CO
Jul 10, 2013 - 12:26am PT
BEST.THREAD.EVER.

Espresso Crack (5.11, Little Egypt)

Credit: gonzo chemist
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