Discussion Topic |
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 19, 2009 - 12:37pm PT
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what are YOUR favorite finger cracks?!?
Devils Tower:
Direct South West (maybe an all time fav?)
Bloodgaurd (what a cherry!)
Indian Creek:
Cyborg (got some OW to keep the rif-raf out)
Sig Saur (that baby needs to be extended!!!!)
Ziji (best of the best???)
Beauty and the Beast (TIGHT fingers in corner)
Montana:
Fugative (best line in the gally's)
911 Crack (perhaps Mojede's, best find in the butte area?!!)
Dogleg Crack (first .11 in MT, and recently had a second pitch added)
Veedauwoo: (can never spell it right!)
Old dog's new trick (boulder problem, but SPLITTER)
Big Pink (maybe my fingers are too small?? lol)
Red Rocks:
Straight Shooter ('nother splitter)....havnt spent too much time there.....
City of Rocks:
Terror of Tiny Town (thin fingers in a corner....excellent!)
cheers,
patrick
cyborg...
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bob
climber
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Jan 19, 2009 - 12:40pm PT
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Help Me Mr. Wizard to Reunion. Awesome two pitch finger crack link-up.
The Good, the Bad, the Ugly. Super airy finger crack crux up high.
Both on Granite Mountain in AZ.
Bob J.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Jan 19, 2009 - 12:41pm PT
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Bad Ass Mama( see Leavittation thread).
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
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"Bad Ass Momma" hahaha, i included the big pink, since the woo doesn't really apply!
was thinking of doing the fav wides, but figured only jaybro, scuffs, and elcapinyourazz would reply
cheers,
patrick
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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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Jan 19, 2009 - 01:02pm PT
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Gotta second what Bob J said-
And add Paradise Lost- at the Forks.
Some nice 10a ones at JTree too.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Jan 19, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
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Paradise Lost= lifetime project for me. Tough one as I haven't been to AZ in 10+years.
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Jan 19, 2009 - 01:46pm PT
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Mr Natural
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alpinerockfiend
Trad climber
Jackson, WY
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Jan 19, 2009 - 08:00pm PT
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Can't believe nobody said Butterballs yet!
...Butterballs.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jan 19, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
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Sir Croft in action...
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adam d
climber
CA
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Jan 19, 2009 - 08:25pm PT
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ok...lower angle, not as badass and this pic doesn't even show the fingers, but
Anti-Jello crack at Dome Rock is one heck of a good time...
and very similar climbing on the east coast...
Sticky Fingers 10c at Cannon
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jan 19, 2009 - 08:29pm PT
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Valley - Serenity and Mr. Natural. Squamish - Crime of the Century
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jan 19, 2009 - 09:11pm PT
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Any 5.12 pitch of Romantic Warrior
Randy Leavitt says, "It's like Astroman, but without the flaws."
I have to agree......
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jan 19, 2009 - 09:24pm PT
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Really nice Thread! Super enjoy the pics and comments.
Just discovered finger cracks. The ones that fit are glorious. :D
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jan 19, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
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Mr Nat, sherries, butterballs, rat with wings(?)(josh), Equinox, sw direct, a bunch of others, max Factor (you spelled, aka earthborn spirit right, BTW), Blues Riff, some others of those deto west routes, Untold examples too numerous gotta think. clearly, Billy cranks the Rad, however it was, put up. So to speak. That cat wall climb on the monitor, that is the harder rating of the two (fits my weinie fingers).
Bunch more, gotta cogitate. Big Pink? seeing if we are awake? or do you have, short but wide hands that I failed to notice?
The '5.9' solo problem, in the back of the Box canyon, downtown vedauwoo, may get my vote as the best of all time...
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Jan 19, 2009 - 09:34pm PT
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Not necessarily ranked in order...
Naked Edge, P1
Mr. Natural
Butterballs
Moonlight Buttress, P4&5
Johnny Cat
Wunsch's Dihedral, P1
Exasperator
Fine Jade, P2
Makes my joints hurt just thinkin about 'em.... yum!
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alpinerockfiend
Trad climber
Jackson, WY
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Jan 19, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
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no more votes for butterballs eh? thanks for posting that picture! one of my all time faves. and can you really call blues riff a finger crack?
finger lockin' good at the t-wall is also a memorable one, as is
shredded wheat at rumbling bald.
here's an interesting, slightly OT question... does anyone out there think finger cracks are slightly soft for the grade? I've heard this espoused by a few different folks in a few different places. all of my hardest onsights and redpoints on gear are finger cracks. I'm of the newer school that learned face climbing first, then moved to cracks once I was already an experienced sport climber. Maybe that has something to do with it?
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Jan 19, 2009 - 09:53pm PT
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A few pics to honor perhaps the most aesthetic feature in rock climbing - the finger crack!
Naked Edge, P1, Eldorado
Johnny Cat, the Creek (I ain't talkin cat litter here!)
Direct Southwest, the Tower
Splitters & Fritters, aka Cat Burglar, the Creek
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Marshall
climber
bay area
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Jan 19, 2009 - 11:38pm PT
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i second the butterballs vote
and mr natural
and manana (to add to the valley-centrism)
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jan 20, 2009 - 12:20am PT
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Clearly, Butterballs is one of the best short climbs any where, of any width, even without an armbar!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Jan 20, 2009 - 12:22am PT
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Clean Crack (Squamish)
Laughing Crack (Squamish)--Molly's pick
911 Crack (Fantasia,MT)
Thunderbolt and Lightfeet (Mill Creek,MT)
Lady Fingers (Mill Creek,MT)
...others, I'm sure.
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CAC
Gym climber
Clairemont
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Jan 20, 2009 - 12:43am PT
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If anyone knows of a better finger crack than the 250+' continuous Bony Fingers on the Whale in Whitney Portal, please let me know.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Jan 20, 2009 - 01:04am PT
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Side note regarding the above:
extend Sig Sauer? Do you have toothpicks for fingers???!!??!
There are some easier (and *excellent*) finger cracks pitches on and around Calaveras Dome. Pitch 5 of Sands of time, pitch 5 of Gemini Cracks come to mind. Both 5.8 and they are STELLAR.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Jan 20, 2009 - 01:09am PT
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so many......but butterballs has got to be the best.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jan 20, 2009 - 01:15am PT
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Mr. N. looks so nice. Is it cause it fits so nice too ?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 20, 2009 - 01:18am PT
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There are one or two finger cracks here
D
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jan 20, 2009 - 01:22am PT
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No way!
-knowing emoticon...
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ninjah
Big Wall climber
mammoth lakes, ca
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Jan 20, 2009 - 02:09am PT
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Johno
Big Wall climber
Cape Town / Japan
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Jan 20, 2009 - 02:37am PT
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Check out the finger cracks on the Lotus Flower Tower. Pick one & send, for 20 pitches!
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day
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Jan 20, 2009 - 09:42am PT
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Cramming
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adam d
climber
CA
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Jan 20, 2009 - 10:31am PT
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Tami's right...that P2 (i think) crux fingercrack pitch on McTech Arete is stellar.
Still sorta feels like cragging with a view on the Crescent Spires though...
but what a view it is.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Jan 20, 2009 - 10:41am PT
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mr natural is super!try the MAGNUS, a obscure route up rock crk, not in the new guide book but I think it's in older version of eastside guide book, a bit of an approach but worth the effort.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Jan 20, 2009 - 10:51am PT
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There are almost too many to name on Devil's Tower but Digital Extraction is the one that comes to mind first. Again, In no particular order:
P1 The Naked Edge,
Butterballs
Sig Sauer
Mr Natural
Crack a Go Go
Ouch!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jan 20, 2009 - 11:11am PT
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Fun thread brotherman! AND it's getting some action...pretty wild!
Here's some favorite local finger cracks...
Druthers Crack
The Fugitive
Dogleg Crack
Tigger
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I'm hurtin . . .
Ice climber
land of cheese and beer
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Jan 20, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
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Carols Crack .11a, Devils Tower. Beautiful, it just goes and goes
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
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haha!!
yeah, put the big pink in to see who was paying attention....only jaybro picked that one up!!!
seems like sig saur would have an obvious extention, since the anchors are only 10-15 feet past where the true splitter begins....
i only climbed it once, but it looks like it stays in the yellows for at least 30 to 40 more feet, before turning into .65 or smaller... have to give er' a closer look in march :D
a couple of forgotten:
Max Factor (thought of this on the way to butte...one of the finer at the woo)
digital extraction (duh), has anyone ever done the second pitch besides hong?!?! just a rumor im trying to confirm....
deli express (the harder version of carol's)...another hong classic!
some sweet shots of some nice finger cracks!!! keep em' coming!!!
digital extraction
cheers,
patrick
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2009 - 01:51pm PT
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the route me n tar climbed in eldo was a super nice moderate finger crack also....
was it 'over the hill' ????
i think thats the name....pitch 2 anyways
old dog's
oh and middle, and left crack too, for short finger work!!! IC
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 20, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
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Uh...obvious omission:
Equinox!
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
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elder enjoying the perfect locks on 'Big Pink'
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jan 20, 2009 - 07:33pm PT
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Angel Crack at Castle Rock in Tumwater Canyon near Leavenworth, WA. It is quite short, so doesn't measure up to the lengths of these other climbs but it crams in some cool fierce finger jams on granite. It is a NW classic first freed by Fred Beckey and many a trad climber has worked their technique on Angel Crack and Midnight Rock and then gone on to Yosemite. Its my favorite becasue it is where I first learned.
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Jan 20, 2009 - 07:36pm PT
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Pinky Paralysis!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jan 20, 2009 - 08:02pm PT
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Serinity Crack ~ a bit scarred-up but still a nice outing.
Lost at Sea- Needles ~ a beautiful finger sized gem
The Emperor ~ Needles - this gem of a route was called by Randy Leavitt "the best crack at the Needles" Quite a statement considering how many great finger cracks are there.
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Jan 21, 2009 - 08:54am PT
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"tips" on this and that is stellar.
I always loved the last pitch of "white punks"
and many others.....
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Jan 21, 2009 - 11:59am PT
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South Crack, pretty durn nice.
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ninjah
Big Wall climber
mammoth lakes, ca
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Jan 21, 2009 - 12:44pm PT
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orgaszim 11a in the owens river gorge, bolted but very nice, O siverback in pine creek sweet too 5.12 tips liback! o ya!
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MVM
Trad climber
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Jan 21, 2009 - 02:55pm PT
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I can't imagine any of the above listed routes being better than the Moonlight Buttress. Shityeah! Yeehaw! Hotdamn!
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dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
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Jan 22, 2009 - 09:41am PT
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Mirage is clearly better than Butterballs and you can do the Owl Roof while you are overthere.Hey Kingsburys,Tell us more about those Montucky fingercracks. Cosmic Debris ain´t bad either.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jan 22, 2009 - 10:00am PT
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Just a boulder problem, but "Jaws" at Woodson is one sweet crack.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jan 22, 2009 - 10:04am PT
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well...
Dogleg Crack, Montana's first .11, was done in the late 60's out on the Wedge in the Humbug Spires by the Kanzler brothers...I may have the date slightly off...may have been early 70's, and there could have been others involved beyond the Kanzler bros...the history of the Dirty Sox Club is still pretty hazy...
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jan 22, 2009 - 10:09am PT
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Dancing Fingers
This one is a Mojede FA...a bit stout for .10b...
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
b.c.c
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Jan 22, 2009 - 10:15am PT
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Rubicon in JT, gets a vote
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Ryan Tetz
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jan 22, 2009 - 10:44am PT
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3rd pitch of Serenity. Also the next steep pitch after that on Sons
The Fracture at sugarloaf.
The 2nd pitch on central pillar.
First pitch of Moratorium.
Numerous splitter pitches on the Chouinard Herbert
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2009 - 01:20pm PT
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the moonlight looks amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!!
here's a shot of mojedes infamous '911 crack'
a thin crack requiring many tiny nuts and cams down to a grey tcu (crux piece!)
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 22, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
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Tales
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 22, 2009 - 04:22pm PT
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Thin Ice at the Needles.
I think there might be a few other finger cracks there, too.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2009 - 06:29pm PT
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bump for simian rage!!!
a dwight bishop test piece originally done with a rope, turned into a highball
side note: felt easier than the original proposed grade, but we were thinking that the starting flake had shifted, allowing one to bypass the tips looks and gain a face hold around the corner, with much better feet...
-patrick
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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A Dare by the Sea,Maine.Photo by Geoff Ohland
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apogee
climber
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Don't know if anyone mentioned this yet:
Dave's Deviation, Tahquitz
Flaring, never quite bomber (for my big mitts), and classic all the way.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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I'm kinda partial to this one, but not because it's a great climb or anything.
Just because, well, I named the route. And it had its 15 minutes of fame on
the cover of a guidebook once.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I've always been partial to this one. Third pitch of Borderline on the Chief, a route I put up with two partners about ten years ago, and never really got any good pictures of myself. (So see note below the photo re copyright, cuz I borrowed this one.)
Okay, here's the photo note. I found this shot on Cascadeclimbers.com, taken by "dberdinka". A little digging leads me to believe dberdinka is Supertopo poster Slabby D, who, I hope, won't mind me putting the pic up here. I'll take it down if he asks me to.
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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Rich Romano on True Grip,Gunks.Photo Geoff Ohland.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Has anyone mentioned "Ankles Away" at the Needles?
It is a superb 2 pitch gem, first pitch is 5.11a stemming, second pitch is 5.11c/d thin crack. Not to be missed on your trip to the Needles. Super rock on this one folks!
Looking down as Tony Sartin follows tthe first pitch.
Tony leads on the 2nd pitch. Lots of thin gear needed for this long pitch.
The Needles are a crack climbers paradise!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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The Needles really are the shiiet for fingerin' cracks!
Oh cripes, I'll post these haggard pictures of the Breashears' crack on Wunsch's Diehedral...
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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JTree
Uncle Fester...
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seamus mcshane
climber
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Quest for Glory or Power? .10d Eagle Lake Cliffs
(Left of Space Truckin')
Space Walk .11+ also Eagle Lake Cliffs
The whole area is phenomenal, superfine granite.
Dano SOLOED Space Walk onsight in the early 1980's, he may have only been 18...
Go try it. It's Quality!!! The onsight that is, not the solo, unless you're into that sort of thing. (I know, I know, sure badasses abound, everyone BASE jumps, and .11+ is flip-flop stuff for the new generation.)
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Reunion, Granite Mountain
The amazing Help Me Mr. Wizard pitch, Granite Mountain (arrow)
Paradise Lost, Paradise Forks, AZ
Quick Death var, Rappel Rock, AZ
Red Planet (13a), Sedona's hardest crack? (arrow)
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Double D
climber
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Butterballs
Spacewalk for sure
Hotline
Bachar's Crack
the 5.9 boulder crack above C4
and...
I stroked and I poked 'til my wrist got numb
on a surly little crack called Dynamo Hum.
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alpinerockfiend
Trad climber
The American West
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Yo Tarbuster, are your forearms about to explode from sending so hard?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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They are permanently ruined ... kaput!
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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If you're ever in Guadalajara ??? .... "Fingers of Steel" (I think), 5.11c, perfect splitter.
Barely flashed it... second knuckle to off knuckle - whatever that means!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Cali Knight!
fotos Off White
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Did I miss the shots of Sphinx Crack?
Anyone here done it, and Equinox, and care to comment on a comparison?
Cilley? You must have done both of those, Comments?
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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Dan Goodwin on Sphinx Crack.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Dynamite photo, Richross.
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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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"The Passanger" South Early Winter Spire, North Cascades, WA. 5.11+ IV. Mostly thin crack with a one bolted pitch and some token wide.
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dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
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Did the ffa of the red tower aid crack at Deerhorn.I doubt its seen a second .Is it in somebodies back yard now?How bout the back side of Robbins aka the lie detector.San Diego is loaded with great finger cracks.
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Anybody dare climb "Mr. Natural" since the rockfalls over the last several years? Sure wish they would move that climb to a safer area.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2009 - 03:33pm PT
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straight shooter
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2009 - 03:43pm PT
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fugitive
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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My "favorite" only because they are at my folks' cabin, and are the closest.
The prominent boulder in the upper right is this unclimbed overhanging, barn-door lay-backing special.
I haven't managed to conquer this splitter in the area, either.
It looks like hand-size, but it climbs like tight fingers.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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It looks like hand-size, but it climbs like tight fingers.
Reminds me of what is probably my all-time favorite finger crack. Favorite not because it was somehow better than any other perfect splitter, but because it was not a gaping off-width. It was about 1,500 ft above the valley floor (no, not that stupid Capital-V Valley in California) and really obvious. We assumed it must be pretty wide if we could see it so clearly from below, and that it would probably shut us down, but it turned out to be a full pitch of perfect fingers and thin hands, way up in the sky above a deserted valley, surrounded by beautiful peaks.
We got shut down by a fairly blank headwall a bit higher, and barely made it back to the valley by dark, but it had been a fun day. Ten new pitches on a face no one else had ever been on, with the special reward of a ropelength of beautiful moderate fingers instead of the six-inch horror show we expected!
I wish I had some pictures of it to share.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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holy toledo this looks good. where is it? i love slightly-less-than vert thin cracks that let you use your feet 'n stuff...
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Red Planet at Sedona looks sick! I'm trying that if i ever go.
Equinox in Jtree is cool but painful
Heart of Stone on Fairview looks really good.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Heart of Stone...
Big long enduro corner sort 'a gig, mostly fingers, left facing,
Tightens up right at the top.
Lots of varied & interesting climbing on that route's other pitches too.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Was it one of you Kingsbury boys that mentioned Southwest Direct on Devils Tower?
FFA by Henry Barber.
Starts out as seen in the picture, 5.7 fingers.
Gets considerably harder!
This is a good one to take to the top too...
Wish I had pictures of Digital Extraction, also at Devils Tower and mentioned upthread.
That is one of the all-time straight in finger cracks.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
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Thats the one tar!!!!
(i brought my friend up it for the first time last spring and he flashed it after four morning beers!!!!) luckily i only had 2....
those two are favorites for sure!!!!
nice shots of breashers crack up thread!!
cheers,
patrick
edit: did u climb the second pitch of digital tar? i remember you said u did, and then another time thought u didn't....it looks good, but alot more grassy than the first
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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I know for sure I toted the rope up the first pitch of Digital.
Smooth as silk...
I just can't remember whether we did the second.
I'd have to ask Nancy Prichard, my partner: haven't spoken with her in years ...
The other route we were discussing, also a finger crack & a stout 5.11, which I said was like stemming between two cracks (while getting good finger locks in the primary crack), is I think, the McCarthy West Face.
McCarthy North Face also has some fingers, but not as hard as these others we're discussing.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
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yeah the first pitch is sweet for sure.
the McCarthy West Face original looks sweet!!! one that i haven't yet tried!!! the crux is the very top yes?
franks told me stories of trying that thing and being able to 'spit at the anchors', but not being able to pull the final move.
cheers,
patrick
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Yes I think so; crux at the top of McCarthy West.
I'm looking in my guidebook and the description fits (Pitch 2: climb the right most of three cracks, 95 feet, 5.11c)
Can't remember if the crux is necessarily technical; like most things at Devils Tower, you have stamina issues to contend with primarily.
Sue Wint followed; she has tremendous "leg span" and was able to just let go of her hands most of that pitch!
This is a very aesthetic climb; at least concerning the crux lead.
I wanted to top out, but it was getting late and the women were cold.
(This cool artsy chick named Tyr, a bit over her head, sort of fell up that second pitch)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Blues Riff,
Though primarily a tight hand crack; you'd better be good with sequenced finger locks if you want to get through the crux!
Goldfinger, though, that's gotta be the big daddy of Tuolumne finger cracks!
(I have no experience with it)
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Here's one of Colorado's best: Mark Wilford and Steve Mammen on the Bishop Finger Crack.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Mmmmmmm, Blues Riff - super good! Manly locks.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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"Gill Crack", Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon. BITDays of high fashion...
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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great shots posted on this thread. Straight Shooter and Sticky Fingers up thread remind me of Transistor Sister over past the Grack area. Short but really clean tips 10c. Anyone know if it is still there after all the rockfall on that side?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sweet shot this one!
Any of you fun hogs do the second pitch?
Tricky... I think I flung a mild dyno both times up it...
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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what is bishop finger crack rated? looks good
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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I believe the Bishop Crack is 12b/c. There's also a fine 'sister' crack on the backside called Craftwerk that's 11c or so. Here are a couple of other classic finger lockers....
The amazing crux pitch of Heart of Stone, Tuolumne. JR climbing:
The sustained crux pitch of Deli Express, Devil's Tower:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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'Never seen a picture from Heart of Stone's big corner: Nice!
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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The left side of this sweet little desert finger crack fell off, sometime after this picture was taken. Seemed solid at the time!
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MH2
climber
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ryanb, huh? The Passenger, eh? Seems like there ought to be a Bryan B. connection, there.
So here is Bryan, high above a valley, getting us into more than the average number of memorable moments per climb.
Great pictures, people.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Brock,
> Anybody dare climb "Mr. Natural" since the rockfalls over the last several years? Sure wish they would move that climb to a safer area.
Yes. Here's Jared Brown leading it in April 2008:
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/rep/08427.htm
Also, the photo posted by Marshall upthread was the day before this.
It doesn't seem "that close" to the rockfall path. The person who was killed at the base of Apron Jam was hit by a block which impacted up and right, then rolled down along the base.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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And here's another of the Heart of Stone corner:
photo of Mike Kerzhner by Jared Brown
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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I can't really compete with the preceding shots, but here's a few more.
Rubicon, JT:
Cannibal, Little Egypt:
Pirate, Suicide ('E'):
Tight toe blues:
Anyone have a photo of Speed of Life or Cosmic Debris?
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alpinerockfiend
Trad climber
The American West
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Is Speed of Life a finger crack? I remember a short fingers section, but isn't most of it hands to a short fist crux to more hands/liebacking?
Regardless, it would be rad to see some pics of it. What a great route!
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Friend
climber
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This thread really makes me drool. Every route, either I've done it and loved it, or I wanna do it real bad!!!! I have some new ones for my to-do list now
Already mentioned, Sig Saur. Past the anchors it looked like it went from hard to impossible real quick....
Already mentioned, classic Needles finger crack
Eliminator, classic Vegas, not as pure as the CLoud Tower thin pitch though
HEre is a shot of Speed of Life since you asked - hand crack from what i recall tho..... First pitch has a nice finger crack move. Trail rope indicates steepness! As good as Blues Riff? Damn close IMHO
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alpinerockfiend
Trad climber
The American West
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Nice Speed o Life shot. "As good as Blues Riff?" Better, is my take.
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dustonian
climber
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Gotta chime in for Bony Fingers on the Whale.... hot hot hot!!!
Exasperator at Squamish.... Butterballs of course... oh yeah, Ten Years After up at lower Yosemite Falls!!
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tithaf
Trad climber
Utah
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Wait a minute, on Ankles Away isn't that dihedral off at the bottom of pitch 2 ?!?! Sh#t, I torched myself on those incipient moves at the bottom for nothing?!
An often missed classic is Neurosurgeon at Button Rock Reservoir - and yeah, nobody has posted a pic of Equinox?!
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Fat fingers is my favorite size.
Feels real good in there. Feet, knott so much.
Dance it out. You'll be fine.
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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I cant wait for the summer so I can go do Speed of Life, That climb looks soooooooooooo good.
Pink Flamingo
Cedrics Deep Sea Fish Market Photo by AJ Burch.
Red Zinger
Butterballs
It's a hard choice but Johnny Cat might be my favorite finger carck
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Brendan
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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With many favorites mentioned, I have to add the second pitch of Central pillar frenzy. Not too hard, tons of fun.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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That's the one, Jello! Have you been back there, since it's spontaneous combustion? Wild! I thought I was in the wrong place, until I figured out what had happened. Geologic catastrophism in our own lifetime. Lithic, punctuated equalibrium, of you will!
Somewhere, I have slides I took from the top, of Supertopo's own Manny Rangel, leading it!
It's hard to pick a 'best' given so many climbs. But Johhny Cat could be it!
The J-crack on Lumpy is pretty darn classic, too.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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No, Bro, I haven't been back, and I don't think I want to go back since I feel somehow at least a little bit responsible for hastenning the demise of a fine feature!
Someone mentioned Neurosurgeon:
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Dudeman
Trad climber
California/Idaho/Beyond
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Okay with all that eye candy I got excited and had to pony up also.
Greg Moore styling on Angel Fingers high in the East Humboldt Mountains of northeastern Nevada.
Andrew Stone enjoys the 5th Pitch of Guides Wall in The Tetons
Dave Weber casual on Beware Of Nesting Egos on Elephoant Rock at the City Of Rocks Idaho
Greg Moore cruising on Pole Cat in Castle Rocks State Park, Idaho
Greg Moore locking into Thin Slice at The City Of Rocks, Idaho
Uriah Halloway at the crux of The Splitter at Castle Rocks, Idaho
Greg Moore on Terror Of Tiny Town, City Of Rocks, Idaho
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2009 - 07:25pm PT
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tbow on 'bloodguard'
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Andy D
Trad climber
Colorado
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Feb 12, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
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FAO P Kingsbury
Did 2nd pitch of Digital Extraction in 2000 - at the recomendation of BrassNuts I believe. It was twice as long as the 1st but no moves any harder. Unbelievably good - easily better than Bloodguard. I heard it might be a bit overgrown now though.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Feb 12, 2009 - 10:54pm PT
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Man, that Private Idaho shizzle looks like the real dizzle!
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 12, 2009 - 10:57pm PT
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Awesome looking climbs here, but I do have to chime in about our local crag.
Cannibal at Little Egypt, is not a finger crack, it's thin hands, but lately I think the beta is plug a piece and lay the f-in thing back until the knob and hope you are not setting up a groundfall.
Tom
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pip the dog
Mountain climber
the outer bitterroots
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Feb 12, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
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as always, late to the dance.
so many of the routes mentioned are _sweet_. (skinny dudes like me especially like finger cracks). i guess if i had to think on the intergalactic scale, butterballs would likely win.
but my vote in this thread would be for a route from the turf of my youth -- the turf i suspect all of us forever use as the measure of all routes.
this said, so how's'about Airation at Cathedral. _sweet_
richross' vote for A Dare By The Sea also struck me. also a place from my youth. what a pretty route and a pretty place to be, the waves so close. that and it was first done by a guy dear to me, a rock stud kind enough to take a then young teen under his wing. now sadly gone from us, Jim Adair.
~~~
great thread. i have been adding stuff unknown to me to my travel plans/wish list.
^,,^
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scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
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Feb 13, 2009 - 12:09pm PT
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Hey Survival,
which Private Idaho are you referring to? Is there a picture of
it in this thread?
If you mean the one at City of Rocks, that's a really good
climb, but the finger section has so many holds you don't have
to touch the crack at all.
Skip the 100-ft convenience anchor and finish the pitch. 5.6
roof finish awaits you.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
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thanks for the input andy!!1
according to frank, he thought that the pitch had never been repeated.....very cool to hear that u did it....def on my to do list....was gonna try it last season, but it was full of grass, and i didnt want to garden on lead.......
the rangers recently cleaned refractal last fall, a fingers pitch i havent tried but Mike F. said was one of his fav's at the tower!!!
torpedo bay, long canyon
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YayP
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Feb 13, 2009 - 04:30pm PT
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"Splitters" from Estes Park, CO come to mind: J-Crack, Mission Impossible, Loose Ends, and Cheap Date on The Book, Lumpy Ridge. Little Twin Owls Finger Crack also on Lumpy. Days of Heaven on the Rock of Ages in RMNP. So much to do in your backyard, I miss Estes!
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Feb 22, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
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Keepin this one alive... Crimpergirl on P2 of Beggar's Buttress, Lower Cathedral
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Feb 22, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
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Whoa - that was super fun!!
Edit:
Here is BrassNuts on Flight Deck in Indian Creek in the fall -
Later we went to Red Rocks...leave it to BN to find the most Indian Creek looking feature there!
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dustonian
climber
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Feb 22, 2009 - 02:57pm PT
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Nice shot of Beggar's!! That pitch is bitchin'.... the last crux pitch also killer fingers.
What about the second pitch of Fine Jade on the Rectory...?
Oh yeah, how do you add photos to a post?
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Feb 22, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
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"Blood on the Tracks", Dylan Wall, San Rafael Swell, UT
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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Feb 22, 2009 - 06:28pm PT
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Vern Clevenger on Mellow Yellow,Gunks 1980.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Feb 22, 2009 - 08:52pm PT
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With corrected horizon. :) Excellent belay technique there Bob R! I bet BrassNuts thinks Bob is awake! Heh heh!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Mar 13, 2009 - 01:34am PT
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BUMP
Because I fear the wide.
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d-know
Trad climber
electric lady land
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Mar 19, 2009 - 06:58pm PT
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bump 4 finger lookin goods.
and to keep the climbing
shizz up front.
tkingsbury or any of you
other montana cats,
can you shed any more
light on the kanzler
bros.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Mar 20, 2009 - 10:21am PT
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Hoots
climber
Tacoma, Toyota
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Mar 20, 2009 - 11:26am PT
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Finger lickin' lock bump!
Jaws at Mt. Woodson
no, i do not know how to resize! its an OW! ahhhh!
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 28, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
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Nice bump for eye candy!
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chum
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 28, 2009 - 04:02pm PT
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Goldfinger! Only 5.12a...
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richross
Trad climber
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Dec 28, 2009 - 04:37pm PT
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Mark Sonnenfeld on Supercrack.
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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Dec 28, 2009 - 05:00pm PT
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my faves -
Mirage
Tips
Butterballs
Rostrum 5th
way better is the overhanging
Red Tower aid crack at Deerhorn
that Dick Cilley mentioned upthread -
Dick, Piggot and I were there, but only
top-roped it, Rick did the "upper V" part,
I didn't even try, just blown away by getting
there, having climbed such a spectacular and
difficult finger crack - traversing into the start of
the crack from the left, others (Bill Ramsey)
went straight up and did the bottom part too.
Cilley, has the Red Tower crack had a lead to
your knowedge?
How 'bout the amazing face to the left?
wicked...
oh, one of the Jardine thin cracks at Arch is
pretty good too - Cosmic Debris* is way up
there also, never got it tho...
*as good as the Red Tower, but the Tower
is in a better position, on an overhanging
prow-buttress.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Dec 28, 2009 - 09:32pm PT
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Hollywood and Vine is another classic DT finger crack. Other good ones not mentioned include the second pitch of McCarthy North Face, the first pitch of McCarthy West, Casper College, the first couple of pitches of Tulgey Wood, the Hong Variation and although it is a steming problem El Matador is mostly fingers on both sides.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 28, 2009 - 10:04pm PT
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How did I miss this thread?
And how can there be a finger crack thread without anything from Trout Creek?
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Oct 19, 2010 - 11:22pm PT
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Here is another really good one!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 19, 2010 - 11:55pm PT
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One Way Sunset at DT though only about 70ft of fingers has to have some of the best locks and unlike a lot of routes there it is not in a dihedral.Here is a couple of nice ones I found by Nemo in the Black Hills
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Oct 20, 2010 - 12:13am PT
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Romano's at Spidersweb in the Adirondacks is good.
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Derek
climber
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Oct 20, 2010 - 02:27pm PT
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Yeah, Romano's is superb, but White Knight right next to it is purer fingers. For that matter, so is the initial crack section of Fear and Loathing. You kind of can't go wrong at the Web, I guess...
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Oct 20, 2010 - 02:52pm PT
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Pitch 1 of Blind Faith on the Rostrum........Pics anybody?
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crøtch
climber
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Oct 20, 2010 - 05:00pm PT
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Davidson's Dihedral at Paradise Forks is yellow aliens all the way.
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richross
Trad climber
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Oct 20, 2010 - 05:15pm PT
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Doug Madara on Ken's Crack,Gunks.
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Oct 20, 2010 - 05:36pm PT
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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The p2/p3 crack on Touchstone.
GO
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Sep 23, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
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Bump!
Extra Lean, 2nd Meat Wall
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Sep 23, 2011 - 04:35pm PT
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Found these 2 short, but challenging, lines within the last 2 days...
... also heard that Dick Cilley was heading back towards these parts--coincidence?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 11, 2012 - 09:43am PT
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What is Bad Ass Baby rated these days? .11b/c as of '83ish, kinda highball. Pads would be nice. Harder than Short Circuit for me. Trickier jams; no simple Plug 'n Go affair.
I'm guessing ratings creep has victimized this tricky gem of a splitzer..
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 10, 2013 - 12:01am PT
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Finger bump.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jan 10, 2013 - 12:25am PT
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Practicing finger crack on this boulder today. Turns out I don't know what to do with my feet.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 10, 2013 - 04:02am PT
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Awesome thread!
Clean crack (tech)
Milk run corner (pump)
South crack was real fun, the crack part at least- me & my friend onsight simuled it & had a nice slab epic when our rope was shorter than the distance between the bolts up top.
Fingerfood- a boulder problem in the outback(I think) at JT was so fun I did it 10 times in a row!
Wish I had some pics to add.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Jan 10, 2013 - 04:31am PT
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Crux pitch of Don Juan at The Needles
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deschamps
Trad climber
Out and about
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Jan 10, 2013 - 11:39am PT
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Terminator at the waterfall. Perfect .4 fingers (12a) to an okay shake, to 12c first nuckle to second nuckle to tips lieback, to poor shake, to V3 boulder problem guarding the chains.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 11, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
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Whoa! This is one mighty mouse indeed. Where is it?
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Jan 11, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Jan 12, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
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I love finger cracks!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
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Jan 12, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
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expando
overuse
the remedy crack
back to work
never the same
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Ladd (8) seemed to enjoy this one...
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Jul 10, 2013 - 12:26am PT
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BEST.THREAD.EVER.
Espresso Crack (5.11, Little Egypt)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Bumped into this thread while looking for something else ...
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Robb
Social climber
Cat Box
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Hey Roy, how ye be?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Crappy.
But still glad to be alive! WTF!? Ha ha.
Best to you, Robb.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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On castle rock spire
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Grass filled king snake
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Peter's Out
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herm
Trad climber
Bishop
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Texas Chainsaw massacre, lots of fun, did it a few times BITD.
Peter' Out is to the left a bit, did it once too, it is much scarier.
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Classic 5.11d splitter on Basalt at El Escalon, Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Dale Bard built a climbing wall with evil overhanging off finger crack machines. He floated laps on them. I couldn’t get my feet off of the ground.
He was really good at thin cracks.
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Scole- is this the same crack?
I remember when bachar posted this!
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Sep 10, 2018 - 03:07pm PT
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That's the route,tilted, but you can bet that if Bachar barely flashed it, it's stiff for the grade. Crux is 1"
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