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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Jan 20, 2009 - 07:36pm PT
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Pinky Paralysis!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jan 20, 2009 - 08:02pm PT
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Serinity Crack ~ a bit scarred-up but still a nice outing.
Lost at Sea- Needles ~ a beautiful finger sized gem
The Emperor ~ Needles - this gem of a route was called by Randy Leavitt "the best crack at the Needles" Quite a statement considering how many great finger cracks are there.
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Jan 21, 2009 - 08:54am PT
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"tips" on this and that is stellar.
I always loved the last pitch of "white punks"
and many others.....
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Jan 21, 2009 - 11:59am PT
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South Crack, pretty durn nice.
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ninjah
Big Wall climber
mammoth lakes, ca
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Jan 21, 2009 - 12:44pm PT
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orgaszim 11a in the owens river gorge, bolted but very nice, O siverback in pine creek sweet too 5.12 tips liback! o ya!
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MVM
Trad climber
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Jan 21, 2009 - 02:55pm PT
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I can't imagine any of the above listed routes being better than the Moonlight Buttress. Shityeah! Yeehaw! Hotdamn!
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dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
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Jan 22, 2009 - 09:41am PT
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Mirage is clearly better than Butterballs and you can do the Owl Roof while you are overthere.Hey Kingsburys,Tell us more about those Montucky fingercracks. Cosmic Debris ainīt bad either.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jan 22, 2009 - 10:00am PT
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Just a boulder problem, but "Jaws" at Woodson is one sweet crack.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jan 22, 2009 - 10:04am PT
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well...
Dogleg Crack, Montana's first .11, was done in the late 60's out on the Wedge in the Humbug Spires by the Kanzler brothers...I may have the date slightly off...may have been early 70's, and there could have been others involved beyond the Kanzler bros...the history of the Dirty Sox Club is still pretty hazy...
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jan 22, 2009 - 10:09am PT
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Dancing Fingers
This one is a Mojede FA...a bit stout for .10b...
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
b.c.c
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Jan 22, 2009 - 10:15am PT
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Rubicon in JT, gets a vote
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Ryan Tetz
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jan 22, 2009 - 10:44am PT
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3rd pitch of Serenity. Also the next steep pitch after that on Sons
The Fracture at sugarloaf.
The 2nd pitch on central pillar.
First pitch of Moratorium.
Numerous splitter pitches on the Chouinard Herbert
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2009 - 01:20pm PT
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the moonlight looks amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!!
here's a shot of mojedes infamous '911 crack'
a thin crack requiring many tiny nuts and cams down to a grey tcu (crux piece!)
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 22, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
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Tales
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 22, 2009 - 04:22pm PT
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Thin Ice at the Needles.
I think there might be a few other finger cracks there, too.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2009 - 06:29pm PT
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bump for simian rage!!!
a dwight bishop test piece originally done with a rope, turned into a highball
side note: felt easier than the original proposed grade, but we were thinking that the starting flake had shifted, allowing one to bypass the tips looks and gain a face hold around the corner, with much better feet...
-patrick
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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A Dare by the Sea,Maine.Photo by Geoff Ohland
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apogee
climber
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Don't know if anyone mentioned this yet:
Dave's Deviation, Tahquitz
Flaring, never quite bomber (for my big mitts), and classic all the way.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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I'm kinda partial to this one, but not because it's a great climb or anything.
Just because, well, I named the route. And it had its 15 minutes of fame on
the cover of a guidebook once.
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