Upper Yosemite Falls: who is the FA on the ice climb?

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10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 29, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
I know of a 1000' waterfall that freezes reliably every winter in the Sierras.
It is called Too Far To Walk Falls.


hey, I know exactly where that is
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
Dec 29, 2012 - 04:29pm PT
Many years ago John Mattox and I did a several pitch water fall in the Delaware Gap. He led the last pitch just as the sun came out, with water running down behind the ice. By the time I could follow, there was also several inches of water running down outside of the ice. I was hanging from my ice tools with water pouring into the parka collar and sleeves...coldest experience of my life...a DUI dry-suit would have been appropriate...perhaps that would be the ticket here

(Many years even earlier, Mike Hoover and I climbed The Trough at Tahquitz in full conditions, using strap on crampons and single wood-handle Stubai ice hammers...took us a long day to do what can be a ten-minute free solo on a warm summer afternoon..)
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Dec 29, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
You guys need to stop with the secret stuff and post up. The valley could have some classic ice routes.

The problem is that most of the decent ice climbers are to the east, in the rockies or new england.

I'm sure that they would love to do some of these routes if they were in condition.

No lie. Ice climbing is like 5.13 now. The most amazing stuff is getting done, and not just the sport fixed mixed routes.

Just email them to Duane Raleigh. He knows all of the hot ice climbers, or the ones that people know about. He still climbs nigh every day, and is climbing hard. He's nothing compared to the youngsters, though. Climbing only .13d is weak. I had a guy tell me that last time I was passing through that part of CO.

draleigh@bigstonepub.com
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2012 - 05:03pm PT
The problem is that most of the decent ice climbers are to the east, in the rockies or new england.


hahaha... plenty of ice climbers in Cali,

I'm sure that they would love to do some of these routes if they were in condition.

that's a big if and the crux of the whole post...
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 29, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
Ed,
I think that the problem is that ice in California is not that great, so people don't get a chance to climb ice here that often. I'm sure there are good ice climbers in Cali, but to get good you have to climb a lot. Given are climate, opportunities are few.

I really enjoy ice climbing. If I lived in Mammoth, I'd be in LVC every week.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 29, 2012 - 05:22pm PT
The 'secret' Too Far To Walk Falls I'm talking about would take you a stiff
two days to get to in winter if you were really lucky; more like three.
You might as well hop on a plane and go to Kanada. I know of some doozies
in the Cascades too but nobody will go into the heart of the N Cascades in
winter, either. I tried to con a helo company owner into taking me to one
BITD. He didn't want to jeopardize his summer contracts with the NPS.
"But you could hover and we'll jump out so you didn't land in the Park!"
It didn't fly.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 29, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
the cali potential is there, just add water.
nova express
nova express
Credit: Stewart Johnson
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Dec 29, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
^^^^^ That is sick Stuie, why no more farming? or is there?
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 29, 2012 - 06:15pm PT
the cali potential is there, just add water.

and colder temps
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Dec 29, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
after reading what I wrote before. If you plan on climbing the falls you don't have to tell me
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 29, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/mesowest/mwmap.php?map=rev
17 degrees f @ tioga
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jan 29, 2013 - 03:25am PT
Anything on the North rim seems very unlikely (with conventional equipe} except for something like Lahamite Falls in Indian Canyon, a little shelterred like that.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 10:57am PT
Lahemite Falls, November 2011

Lahemite Falls, Yosemite Valley CA
Lahemite Falls, Yosemite Valley CA
Credit: Ed Hartouni
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jan 29, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
Rockclimbing only seems dangerous

Ice climbing actually IS dangerous

and screwed up because you can't do it in nice weather

I like my punishment in moderation

There was on old Rec.climbing saying about Ice climbing. I wish I could look it up easier. Something about when you go ice climbing you're looking forward to it on the way, suffering when you're doing it, and then reminiscing about it afterwards.

Peace

Karl
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jan 29, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
Rockclimbing only seems dangerous

Ice climbing actually IS dangerous

It's that type of thinking that led my wife to insist on the following term in my 29-year-old oral prenuptial agreement: I will not climb frozen waterfalls. I still have my circa 1972 rigid Chouinard crampons, though, and permission to use them on Sierra gullies.

As to Yosemite Falls, in December of 1967, I naively hiked to the top of the cone beneath the Upper Fall, curious to see how thick the ice was. On that day, it was little more than verglas, and come crashing down about a half hour after I left.

John
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 29, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
Nova Express covered in ice, wow.
Malemute

Ice climber
the ghost
Jan 29, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
Ice climbing actually IS dangerous
Only if you make a mistake.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Jan 29, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
What I want to know is what was Werner pointing at in that 2008 pic?

Credit: Ihateplastic
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