Upper Yosemite Falls: who is the FA on the ice climb?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 61 - 80 of total 84 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2012 - 05:03pm PT
The problem is that most of the decent ice climbers are to the east, in the rockies or new england.


hahaha... plenty of ice climbers in Cali,

I'm sure that they would love to do some of these routes if they were in condition.

that's a big if and the crux of the whole post...
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 29, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
Ed,
I think that the problem is that ice in California is not that great, so people don't get a chance to climb ice here that often. I'm sure there are good ice climbers in Cali, but to get good you have to climb a lot. Given are climate, opportunities are few.

I really enjoy ice climbing. If I lived in Mammoth, I'd be in LVC every week.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 29, 2012 - 05:22pm PT
The 'secret' Too Far To Walk Falls I'm talking about would take you a stiff
two days to get to in winter if you were really lucky; more like three.
You might as well hop on a plane and go to Kanada. I know of some doozies
in the Cascades too but nobody will go into the heart of the N Cascades in
winter, either. I tried to con a helo company owner into taking me to one
BITD. He didn't want to jeopardize his summer contracts with the NPS.
"But you could hover and we'll jump out so you didn't land in the Park!"
It didn't fly.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 29, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
the cali potential is there, just add water.
nova express
nova express
Credit: Stewart Johnson
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Dec 29, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
^^^^^ That is sick Stuie, why no more farming? or is there?
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 29, 2012 - 06:15pm PT
the cali potential is there, just add water.

and colder temps
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Dec 29, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
after reading what I wrote before. If you plan on climbing the falls you don't have to tell me
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 29, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/mesowest/mwmap.php?map=rev
17 degrees f @ tioga
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jan 29, 2013 - 03:25am PT
Anything on the North rim seems very unlikely (with conventional equipe} except for something like Lahamite Falls in Indian Canyon, a little shelterred like that.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 10:57am PT
Lahemite Falls, November 2011

Lahemite Falls, Yosemite Valley CA
Lahemite Falls, Yosemite Valley CA
Credit: Ed Hartouni
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jan 29, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
Rockclimbing only seems dangerous

Ice climbing actually IS dangerous

and screwed up because you can't do it in nice weather

I like my punishment in moderation

There was on old Rec.climbing saying about Ice climbing. I wish I could look it up easier. Something about when you go ice climbing you're looking forward to it on the way, suffering when you're doing it, and then reminiscing about it afterwards.

Peace

Karl
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jan 29, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
Rockclimbing only seems dangerous

Ice climbing actually IS dangerous

It's that type of thinking that led my wife to insist on the following term in my 29-year-old oral prenuptial agreement: I will not climb frozen waterfalls. I still have my circa 1972 rigid Chouinard crampons, though, and permission to use them on Sierra gullies.

As to Yosemite Falls, in December of 1967, I naively hiked to the top of the cone beneath the Upper Fall, curious to see how thick the ice was. On that day, it was little more than verglas, and come crashing down about a half hour after I left.

John
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 29, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
Nova Express covered in ice, wow.
Malemute

Ice climber
the ghost
Jan 29, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
Ice climbing actually IS dangerous
Only if you make a mistake.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Jan 29, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
What I want to know is what was Werner pointing at in that 2008 pic?

Credit: Ihateplastic
T H

Boulder climber
ne'erdowell
Dec 30, 2015 - 10:30pm PT
^^ I remember looking down (with horror) from above this cascade in March of '76 when I tried to bushwack to the valley from Basket dome. I was looking for Snow Creek trail, or anything easy to get back down. Ended up spending the night on a ledge 300 feet above Mirror lake, and thankfully woke to an NPS rescue the next morning.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2015 - 11:19pm PT
the waterfall on Basket Dome is an inside YOSAR "joke" from back in the day...

I'm not at liberty to reveal the particulars...

The Upper Yosemite Falls hasn't frozen like that 2007 picture the Werner posted above since...

my guess is that if it ever happens again, the ice climbers will be ready. I was thinking about hanging a string of thermometers down the face to get some idea of the temperature patterns in the winter time... the inversion is pretty startling, but the cold air flows down out of the high country along the rivers when it's calm... it would be interesting to see how much the temps change and whether there is a pattern.

Since the time of the OP I have actually ice climbed again, with modern tools. I don't think it is so impossible a feat to do, but the conditions have to be right. Unfortunately it is so rare that we don't really know what "the right conditions" are... but first, the thing has to freeze.

It would be bold beyond belief, that's for sure.

On Walleye's image of the three flows under Stanford Pt. I've been up to the right of the middle one on the FA of A Walk In The Park. The bowl above the flow is super water polished slick, so anyone going up there should think about the possibility of releasing an avalanche while negotiating the 100's of feet from the top of the flow to the rim...

AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Dec 31, 2015 - 06:54am PT
The ultimate contrarian is someone who hangs around Yosemite in winter waiting for the ice then goes to Alberta in late spring for the rock climbing.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2015 - 09:29am PT
no one is debating the fact that if you live and climb in California, and want to ice climb, you will spend less time and money and have a more successful outing if you buy a plane ticket to Colorado, Montana, Wyoming or Calgary and enjoy the winter there.

you can spend slightly more and go to Alaska, or the Northeast (but maybe not this year).

if you are an ice obsessed Cali climber, you can go on the road for 3 months and get your climbing partners to fly in... and also find local partners...

it's not contrarian, it's just being lazy (or uncommitted to a climbing life)
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Dec 31, 2015 - 09:37am PT
The roadside stuff has recently collapsed here in AK with the ongoing chinook. Higher elevation is still in shape. Typical conditions are due next week.
Messages 61 - 80 of total 84 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews