Upper Yosemite Falls: who is the FA on the ice climb?

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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 18, 2008 - 10:40pm PT
The question came up at the gym a couple of nights ago: who was the team on the first ascent of the upper yosemite falls ice climb?

The answer might be that there hasn't been an FA of that climb...

...what's the answer?
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Dec 18, 2008 - 10:43pm PT
I know who did the first base jump off it.. Oh, that's not what you asked... Sorry.
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Dec 18, 2008 - 10:43pm PT
I don't believe that one has been bagged.
Walleye

climber
El Portal On the Merced Riviera
Dec 18, 2008 - 10:46pm PT
nada..
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Dec 18, 2008 - 11:13pm PT
This has to be the best troll Ed H. has ever generated. Very fun concept too!!

best, ph.
Walleye

climber
El Portal On the Merced Riviera
Dec 18, 2008 - 11:17pm PT
waddaya mean troll??

Some day some "GUY'S" gonna free that thing...

WJF
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 18, 2008 - 11:18pm PT
Ed Hartouni & Vic Tishous, 1/20/'09. Conditions permitting.
Walleye

climber
El Portal On the Merced Riviera
Dec 18, 2008 - 11:22pm PT
Yeah Jaybro, although I was thinking maybe Ed Hartouni and Bugs McKeith....
T H

climber
Last >>
Dec 18, 2008 - 11:23pm PT
Who did Nevada falls ? That was almost as unbelievable at the time .
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2008 - 11:25pm PT
One of my earliest Yosemite memories was belaying on the Arrow Direct in March of 1971 and watching huge ice sheets falling off the wall.

I'd be hearing all the angels, Bugs included, and hoping they would see me through before the thing melted.

Hey, ice climbing is just aid, right? How hard could it be?
klaus

Big Wall climber
San F*#kincisco
Dec 18, 2008 - 11:41pm PT
it hasn't been done but I'd suggest trying it at night. Climate Change (aka Global Warming) doesn't help.

I was there when Shipley/Fosburg did Nevada. It looked insane.

gimme one 'a them Ole E's, cuz

awright, where they at?

in tha refrigerator, foo!
WBraun

climber
Dec 18, 2008 - 11:48pm PT
Last winter frozen solid.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2008 - 11:52pm PT
I remember that Werner, and I was in the Valley that day too! but no ice tools, and anyway, you'd have to get up and go early and fast... and not worry... somehow...
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Dec 19, 2008 - 12:05am PT
You've got to be kidding me......

Are people thinking about doing that thing?

oh the insanity!!!!


Hold Up EDIT: If anyone is going to be doing this in the near, or far future.. Let me know ahead of time. I'd like to be there to see that.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 19, 2008 - 12:10am PT
Werner/Ed how long did that last?

It's moments like that, that I thank the powers that be, that I'm way too chicken to try that stuff.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2008 - 12:13am PT
I don't think it lasted very long, but Werner would probably know... I'm not sure it lasted the day.
WBraun

climber
Dec 19, 2008 - 12:17am PT
Not long Jay.

It fell apart before noon.

And klaus, to many old E's hahaha

It was Shipley/Fosberg on Sentinel Falls not Nevada. Nevada was Shipley/Wbraun/Cos. Unfortunately Cos got hit by a huge chunk of ice in his face while belaying Walt on the first pitch and was bleeding so we told him to go back to the Valley and get checked out. Turned out it wasn't to bad but but he missed out on the climb.

Cos was pissed and I don't blame him.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 19, 2008 - 12:18am PT
"The question came up at the gym a couple of nights ago: who was the team on the first ascent of the upper yosemite falls ice climb? "

I'm wondering if ya'll were talking about climbing the cone at the bottom. Heard a few dicey stories of early forays up the cone that almost had bad endings.

Peace

Karl
Walleye

climber
El Portal On the Merced Riviera
Dec 19, 2008 - 12:20am PT
I remember that day. If you were prepared and ready to go and started at 4:00am (at the base I mean) and could do 1600 feet in, say 6-8 hours, you MAYBE would have had a chance. This assumes of course that everything is there for the taking..

Of course this is just bullshit speculation on my part.

Yogi might like to chime in..... If there EVER was a day though, that was it...

Edit: Yogi already did chime in I see.
WBraun

climber
Dec 19, 2008 - 12:23am PT
Upper Yosemite Falls that day would never had a chance.

It was paper thin.
Walleye

climber
El Portal On the Merced Riviera
Dec 19, 2008 - 12:25am PT
OOOOOOhhhh.. Never say never!

Never, was free soloing the Regular on Half Dome....
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2008 - 12:30am PT
We were talking about the whole shebang, bottom to top...
...more bullshit speculation: probably best just to go solo for speed.

The climb is totally committing, you'd have to have luck on your side as the melt out would be happening when you were high on the route, and possibly starting at the top. Starting very early would be a good idea, and hope for nice plastic ice to speed you along. But it is well beyond any ice climb I've ever done (but not so crazy by Northeast standards, think Pomme D'Or in the Malbaie River valley, it does stay nice and cold there, though).
WBraun

climber
Dec 19, 2008 - 12:34am PT
You guys are looking in the wrong place.

There are more practical ice plums to be had. They are bad ass looking too.

Not saying where .....
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2008 - 12:37am PT
Werner, truly, I was just askin' not thinkin'... my book of climbing experiences would be titled: High and Mild

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Dec 19, 2008 - 12:38am PT
tease
Walleye

climber
El Portal On the Merced Riviera
Dec 19, 2008 - 12:39am PT
Hey, I'm not looking anywhere....
Walleye

climber
El Portal On the Merced Riviera
Dec 19, 2008 - 12:50am PT
Yogi asks, "You have desires?"
WBraun

climber
Dec 19, 2008 - 12:54am PT
Yeah, there ya go .....
klaus

Big Wall climber
San F*#kincisco
Dec 19, 2008 - 12:57am PT
Coz on Nevada? Werner your smokin too many lotus flowers.

I was there, and you were knott. where is Fosburg, he can clear this up.
WBraun

climber
Dec 19, 2008 - 12:59am PT
Ask cos, he'll tell ya.
Walleye

climber
El Portal On the Merced Riviera
Dec 19, 2008 - 01:01am PT
well you see, therein lies the problem:

You say cos mato

I say coz matoe

Lets call the whole thing off
Scared Silly

Trad climber
UT
Dec 19, 2008 - 01:06am PT
Climbs like Upper Yosemite Falls just want to make you cry. Years ago I was on a much smaller climb. 15 minutes after we hit the ground the second pitch joined us. On another climb which was a big curtain it cracked wall to wall and sunk a couple of inches. I gave up placing any screws. Just remember boys and girls, take my advise, pull down your pants and slide on the ice.
10b4me

Ice climber
the sads
Dec 19, 2008 - 01:06am PT
Werner, what year did you climb Nevada Falls?
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 19, 2008 - 01:09am PT
You have desires to ice climb?

Move to Canada, ya dopes!
corniss chopper

Mountain climber
san jose, ca
Dec 19, 2008 - 01:12am PT
smart to top out before sun rise...and wear a parachute!
WBraun

climber
Dec 19, 2008 - 01:15am PT
Don't remember any years. They're all the same.

We did not climb where the actual Nevada falls flows but just to the right of it. The ice forms from the snow melt and a spring above.

The water streak coming out of the trees in this photo show where climbed.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2008 - 01:19am PT
Anders is right...

where's a good Tami Knight ice climber cartoon when you need one?!
klaus

Big Wall climber
San F*#kincisco
Dec 19, 2008 - 01:23am PT
I am correct then. Walt and Kevin did the actual direct waterfall. Just ask them, er... ask Kevin. Sorry Werner.

those lotus flowers must have a halucinatory effect.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 19, 2008 - 01:24am PT
Honest teh goodness.
Or, fer Pete's sake I meant...
What a bunch of sh#t talkers!
WBraun

climber
Dec 19, 2008 - 01:27am PT
Yes you're correct klaus
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 19, 2008 - 01:31am PT
Has the waterfall on Basket dome been ice climbed? Surely it must freeze over?
Walleye

climber
El Portal On the Merced Riviera
Dec 19, 2008 - 01:33am PT
Well, I'm glad we got that settled.
WBraun

climber
Dec 19, 2008 - 01:37am PT
Hahaha yeah

Jaybro, This one?

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 19, 2008 - 01:46am PT
Cat's outa the bag...
Stuff yerself into knickers Walleye, ASAP.
We gotta get there 'for them other boyz!
Walleye

climber
El Portal On the Merced Riviera
Dec 19, 2008 - 01:46am PT
Yeah right. Nobody goes out to climb that rig when the weather is good (read approach too far) hence nobody will go for the ice if and when whenever.......

Basketcase Jaybro, Basketcase........

Seriously though, really,......... seriously.. There is not enough flow at the cold times of the year for that thing to be doable.

Tarbaby, I'm in my leather laderhosin sp.. Lets go!
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 19, 2008 - 01:52am PT
I plead the Basketcase defense.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2008 - 02:01am PT
you can plead that case, Jaybro, those days are long past...

blue cheer to you, dude...
rwedgee

Ice climber
canyon country,CA
Dec 19, 2008 - 02:17am PT
We were the only people in camp 4 but that night. Widows Tear came down @ ~2am. We hiked the falls and top roped the top 2 pitches in '03(?) Got soaked as the temps went higher and higher. If you peeled the wind would take you away so you had to jug with crampons(a 1st for me) and start over. Fun outing, A+ for exposure.
hossjulia

Trad climber
Eastside
Dec 19, 2008 - 10:56am PT
A+ for expouser is right!

Thanks for that.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Dec 19, 2008 - 11:24am PT
As usual, Tar hits the nail on the head!!!!1111
spyork

Social climber
A prison of my own creation
Dec 19, 2008 - 01:25pm PT
If you act quick Ed, there are ice screws on the front page.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2008 - 02:55pm PT
Ice screws?! We don't need no stinkin' ice screws!

got lots more than I ever use these days... cold averse partners...
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
Dec 19, 2008 - 03:34pm PT
I like Werner's thinking...

I always laugh when I see/read about people clamoring to get to Lee Vining. There is SUCH good ice throughout Cali, if you just think a little and are willing to walk farther than 500 yards from the road. Pretty typical, lazy climber mentality though. But, hey - as long as guys keep playing on WI3 noob routes in LV, the really good ice is left for others.
fosburg

climber
Dec 19, 2008 - 08:02pm PT
Klaus was right! I've been seemingly usurped by none other than the man himself. For the record: Walt Shipley and I climbed the actual Nevada Falls. I don't think anyone else did it that year though it was in thicker than usual. Jeff Hornibrook and I climbed the obvious flow to the observer's right several years prior.
Walleye

climber
El Portal On the Merced Riviera
Dec 19, 2008 - 08:14pm PT
And the Score officially is:

Old English 800 Malt Liquor 1

Lotus Flowers 0
hossjulia

Trad climber
Eastside
Dec 20, 2008 - 11:36am PT
yeah, Lee Vining ice is pretty much dead.

(As I look out my window at a frozen waterfall.)
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Dec 29, 2012 - 09:05am PT
Nevada Falls must have been awesome.

I agree, for example, I hear there are some lines at June Lake.

Still LV ain't that bad. Try ice climbing in Ireland. Perhaps in a Blue Moon. In a very good and cold winter maybe North Prison Gully on Lugnaquillia in the Wicklow Mountains.

Now, Ben Nevis and Glen Coe (and carignhorns etc) in wee Scotland...
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 29, 2012 - 12:07pm PT


I always laugh when I see/read about people clamoring to get to Lee Vining. There is SUCH good ice throughout Cali, if you just think a little and are willing to walk farther than 500 yards from the road. Pretty typical, lazy climber mentality though. But, hey - as long as guys keep playing on WI3 noob routes in LV, the really good ice is left for others.


Huh?
hossjulia

Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
Dec 29, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
Old posts, funny stuff.

Anyone else notice how thick the sarcasm is in my last post?

Probably not.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 29, 2012 - 01:54pm PT
I know of a 1000' waterfall that freezes reliably every winter in the Sierras.
It is called Too Far To Walk Falls.
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 29, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
I know of a 1000' waterfall that freezes reliably every winter in the Sierras.
It is called Too Far To Walk Falls.


hey, I know exactly where that is
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
Dec 29, 2012 - 04:29pm PT
Many years ago John Mattox and I did a several pitch water fall in the Delaware Gap. He led the last pitch just as the sun came out, with water running down behind the ice. By the time I could follow, there was also several inches of water running down outside of the ice. I was hanging from my ice tools with water pouring into the parka collar and sleeves...coldest experience of my life...a DUI dry-suit would have been appropriate...perhaps that would be the ticket here

(Many years even earlier, Mike Hoover and I climbed The Trough at Tahquitz in full conditions, using strap on crampons and single wood-handle Stubai ice hammers...took us a long day to do what can be a ten-minute free solo on a warm summer afternoon..)
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Dec 29, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
You guys need to stop with the secret stuff and post up. The valley could have some classic ice routes.

The problem is that most of the decent ice climbers are to the east, in the rockies or new england.

I'm sure that they would love to do some of these routes if they were in condition.

No lie. Ice climbing is like 5.13 now. The most amazing stuff is getting done, and not just the sport fixed mixed routes.

Just email them to Duane Raleigh. He knows all of the hot ice climbers, or the ones that people know about. He still climbs nigh every day, and is climbing hard. He's nothing compared to the youngsters, though. Climbing only .13d is weak. I had a guy tell me that last time I was passing through that part of CO.

draleigh@bigstonepub.com
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2012 - 05:03pm PT
The problem is that most of the decent ice climbers are to the east, in the rockies or new england.


hahaha... plenty of ice climbers in Cali,

I'm sure that they would love to do some of these routes if they were in condition.

that's a big if and the crux of the whole post...
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 29, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
Ed,
I think that the problem is that ice in California is not that great, so people don't get a chance to climb ice here that often. I'm sure there are good ice climbers in Cali, but to get good you have to climb a lot. Given are climate, opportunities are few.

I really enjoy ice climbing. If I lived in Mammoth, I'd be in LVC every week.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 29, 2012 - 05:22pm PT
The 'secret' Too Far To Walk Falls I'm talking about would take you a stiff
two days to get to in winter if you were really lucky; more like three.
You might as well hop on a plane and go to Kanada. I know of some doozies
in the Cascades too but nobody will go into the heart of the N Cascades in
winter, either. I tried to con a helo company owner into taking me to one
BITD. He didn't want to jeopardize his summer contracts with the NPS.
"But you could hover and we'll jump out so you didn't land in the Park!"
It didn't fly.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 29, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
the cali potential is there, just add water.
nova express
nova express
Credit: Stewart Johnson
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Dec 29, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
^^^^^ That is sick Stuie, why no more farming? or is there?
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 29, 2012 - 06:15pm PT
the cali potential is there, just add water.

and colder temps
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Dec 29, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
after reading what I wrote before. If you plan on climbing the falls you don't have to tell me
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 29, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/mesowest/mwmap.php?map=rev
17 degrees f @ tioga
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jan 29, 2013 - 03:25am PT
Anything on the North rim seems very unlikely (with conventional equipe} except for something like Lahamite Falls in Indian Canyon, a little shelterred like that.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 10:57am PT
Lahemite Falls, November 2011

Lahemite Falls, Yosemite Valley CA
Lahemite Falls, Yosemite Valley CA
Credit: Ed Hartouni
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jan 29, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
Rockclimbing only seems dangerous

Ice climbing actually IS dangerous

and screwed up because you can't do it in nice weather

I like my punishment in moderation

There was on old Rec.climbing saying about Ice climbing. I wish I could look it up easier. Something about when you go ice climbing you're looking forward to it on the way, suffering when you're doing it, and then reminiscing about it afterwards.

Peace

Karl
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jan 29, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
Rockclimbing only seems dangerous

Ice climbing actually IS dangerous

It's that type of thinking that led my wife to insist on the following term in my 29-year-old oral prenuptial agreement: I will not climb frozen waterfalls. I still have my circa 1972 rigid Chouinard crampons, though, and permission to use them on Sierra gullies.

As to Yosemite Falls, in December of 1967, I naively hiked to the top of the cone beneath the Upper Fall, curious to see how thick the ice was. On that day, it was little more than verglas, and come crashing down about a half hour after I left.

John
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 29, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
Nova Express covered in ice, wow.
Malemute

Ice climber
the ghost
Jan 29, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
Ice climbing actually IS dangerous
Only if you make a mistake.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Jan 29, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
What I want to know is what was Werner pointing at in that 2008 pic?

Credit: Ihateplastic
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