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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 11, 2019 - 09:47am PT
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E leading on the Second Ascent of Winds of Change, right next door to Wings of Steel, but definitely not as hard!
I brought up my little piano and Jacob Raab brought his flugelhorn for a Big Wall Jazz Jam. Plenty of folks heard us playing John Coltrane and Thelonius Monk from all over the wall, and right down to the Meadows and Bridge.
E. leading around the left side of the Pinnacle of Hammerdom while Neil belays - quite a terrifying place. A few days earlier, we got a minute or two of a "rain of sand", exactly what happened the year before on Waterfall Route before the big rockfall.
The route traverses up and left to the base of the Pinnacle, so we figured we'd be safe. It turns out the WHOLE Pinnacle of Hammerdom is QUITE expando - the crack on the left that Erik is leading was a fist crack in the afternoon sun, but three hours later after the rock cooled, it closed down into a hand crack, crushing two of our Camalots which we could NOT get out!
The entire feature is over two hundred feet high - one wonders how much longer it will remain attached. I would definitely recommend avoiding that area....
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2019 - 05:29am PT
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PtPP, killer content. Spectacular looking line (Winds of Change).
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Winds of Change is actually a decent route - we enjoyed our time up there.
WoC is certainly more "climbable" for mere mortals like myself than Wings of Steel. The hooking on Wings of Steel is way above my pay grade - I backed off as it is way way WAY too hard for me. I simply cannot put myself in the situation where 30- to 50-foot falls are not merely a possibility, but a certainty. No thanks!
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Wait a minute PTPP! You just recommended Never Never Land to me recently. Now you post on this thread to avoid the area. WTF!!
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klaus
Big Wall climber
6th and Mission
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That last picture is actually on my route Hole World. Dick Jensen joined my route here and finished my pitches to the top which he had to drill all over because A2 is too difficult for him.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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"Drill all over"?
I saw one added bat hook hole to bypass a six-to-eight-inch-wide mud- and plant-filled crack directly below where that photo was taken.
Didn't see anything else?
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klaus
Big Wall climber
6th and Mission
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You failed to see the bolts that your belay is clipped to?? and all the others above? Stoopid Canadian or just a Liar?
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Aeriq
Sport climber
100-year Visitor
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When the WOS dialogue gets stale,
just move the complaints laterally.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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😀😂🙄😱
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