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east side underground
Trad climber
crowley ca
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doug, "it's forty degrees outsde!!" in memory of M. Strassman our lost, lost bro.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Thanks for reminding me where that line came from. I had forty degrees of separation in my confused mind. Memory's a sieve.
Poor lost Mike, RIP
Did you notice that some guys dedicated a new route to Mike, on the south face of Lone Pine Peak? The climbing looks really good.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2008 - 11:15am PT
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Bruce,
You said "It's not often one gets to talk to a legend." I've spent enough time talking with legends to know that they take a crap every day just like us mortals, and when they stand on their soap box, its still slippery, and that one doesn't become a legend just because of their words. History will scour the evidence of their actions.
Someone said: "Trust in Allah, but tie up your horse. Put differently: "Trust, but verify." Doug has a reputation and wouldn't say what he's saying if he didn't believe it were true. Someone is going to have to climb that thing and put this mess to rest. Its a bit over my head, but hey, I'd go give it a shot, even if I got totally shut down.
Doug, I'm really looking forward to your presentation, and sharing another beer with you.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Ok, Doug - perhaps if we can agree to disagree about the one route in question, most likely we can agree on many other things. Regretably, I am stuck in the Great White North and can't attend The Nose celebration, nor your slide show. However I am on El Cap every spring and every fall season, so with any luck we can hook up for a beer on the bridge next spring.
Jerry - I hear you. [However I have never rap-bolted ... anything .... ever.]
Cheers,
Pete
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dogtown
climber
Where I once was,I think?
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Jerry;
I was playing the peacemaker role to entice some dialog for the better about this subject with Pete and Doug.
I do intend on having a go at the route in the spring baring any unforeseen personal difficulty.
If you would like to join me, it would be my pleasure.
Pete; remember all the trash talk about Mark & Richards route? No one would even go up and check it out. But volumes have been written about it.And it still has not had a second assent as far as I know.What I a trying to say is before I say anything about the route I'm going to climb it.
Peace to all, Bruce
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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I spent hours on the phone talkint to Kate, and I think her piece in Alpinist is really well done. I respect her opinion, as I do yours Coz. Especially yours, since you put up the boldest climb on the whole face. Please take a look at my essay in the AAJ, and see if you can at least respect that I feel differently than you do.
Coz, it looks like you and I, also, will at best agree to disagree. I had my hands on the actual stone of the route, and to my eyes it is not as you describe. The next few ascents will judge.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2008 - 01:05am PT
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Hey Coz, I've got an open slot for a presentation in March. Would you like to take it? I'm sure you could put on a good one. Kevin, Pete, you guys are welcome too. I'm putting together the schedule for next year.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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"Pete; remember all the trash talk about Mark & Richards route? No one would even go up and check it out. But volumes have been written about it. And it still has not had a second assent as far as I know. What I a trying to say is before I say anything about the route I'm going to climb it."
Holy pot calling the kettle black, Batman! Time for Petie to STFU.
A slide show? How about big wall camping on El Cap from one end to the other? I could get you action photos from 36 different routes. Compelling, exciting, palm-sweat-inducing action photos, stuff like making coffee, drinking beers, listening to AC/DC, and - the most diabolical - the infamous solar-powered shower. All with mind-numbing exposure beneath, be still my beating heart.
Grrrrrrripping.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2008 - 12:42pm PT
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Pete, I'll take that as a grrripping "Yes." Now what date do you want in 2009? Its the first tuesday of every month, starting after these guys...
November 4: Doug Robinson - Adventure Film (nevada)
December 2: Corey Rich – Slideshow
January 6: Kevin Jorgeson - Tales from the grit.
February 3: Chris Jones - Slideshow
We pay in pizza and beer + gas! Who could resist?
Coz, we'll talk.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there ... bump... (read the first post for details)...
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2008 - 01:54am PT
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Well, despite any controversy, Doug Robinson is alright by me. Great event this evening!
Thanks Doug!
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JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
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Jerry,
I waffeled,
I missed it,
Missed ya too!
joe
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Too bad it was on election night, or I would have been there for sure...
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Coz- So funny- I just re-read the "Variations on the muir" piece you wrote climbing 176.I love all the not wanting to be judged stuff, and it's easy-to-say-how-you'd-do-it-from-the-ground-but-it's-different-when-you-actually-get-off-your-ass stuff.
And I quote: "But we were much less disturbed by the ticket than by the violent reaction of the public. People assumed the worst. Called us cowards, undisciplined children, ego-maniacs. Accused us of rape and treachery. Wrote scathing letters to the editors of climbing magazines..."
Pot, kettle, black, wha....?
BTW- I liked the piece a lot.
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bob
climber
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Yeah Coz. You get pretty damn heated over stuff so I want to paste a direct quote by you from your post in the "Michael Reardon in Memoriam" thread.
"In short he was a much better person than all the big egos that tried to challenge him. I am here to tell you that climbing is not important, and it does not really matter. If you're having fun you are a good climber. It's climbing over a f*#king rock, it serves no purpose greater than your own ego... get over it. "
You wrote this Coz you don't seem to live by it.
Bob J.
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