Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 36 of total 36 in this topic |
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 24, 2008 - 09:12pm PT
|
After you vote on Nov. 4th, join the ROCK ICE & MOUNTAIN CLUB for their monthly meeting. November’s special guest is Doug Robinson who will present his feature film:
Go Wild! Outside Las Vegas
It is not just a climbing film, though it opens with a great sequence in the Red Rocks. It's much bigger than that, crisscrossing the Great Basin looking for adventures. Like backcountry skiing through bristlecones in the White Mountains. Like a moonlight swim in Lake Mead. Canoeing and kayaking on the Colorado River. Desert hot springs. Death Valley wildflowers. Slot canyons, an aerial montage of Nevada mountain ranges, mountain biking, ghost towns, yarning desert rats, and a ballerina in the sage.
This month marks 50 years of climbing for Doug Robinson, though he’s long since forgotten how long he’s been guiding it, writing about it and filming it. Along the way his insight and style has:
Reshaped the relationship climbers have with rock (the Clean Climbing Revolution),
Helped turn a lot of folks on to climbing with finesse (the best-selling ‘rock video’ of all time, Moving Over Stone),
Boosted the profession of guiding (first President of the American Mountain Guides Association).
Forged the longest alpine rock route (Dark Star) and the hardest alpine ice climb (Ice Nine) in the Sierra.
Or maybe not. But don’t get him started on heightened awareness, that fine head-space that he claims comes from climbing hard. He calls it “The Alchemy of Action,” saying it draws climbers into a visionary state. Whatever. If you can nail him down, he likes to tell stories, lead seminars, and dance on the stone with new clients.
The R.I.M. Club is the North Bay's premiere climbing and back country club. Its free monthly meetings on the first Tuesday of each month have featured lecture and slide presentations by members and world class climbers like: Glen Denny, Doug Stoup, Dave Harden, Jerry Dodrill, Armin Fisher, Hans and Jacqueline Florine, Kevin Jorgeson, Doug Robinson, Tom McMillan, Chris McNamara, Royal Robbins, Ron Kauk, Chris Jones and special events with Conrad Anker, Galen Rowell and Andy Selters.
Meetings are the first Tuesday of every month at 7:30 PM at the Round Table Pizza at 2065 Occidental Road, Santa Rosa, California.
Directions:
From Highway 101 at Santa Rosa go west on Highway 12 to Stony Point Road Exit. Go straight from the middle lane at the light onto Occidental Road. The Round Table Pizza is on the right just down the road.
FUTURE EVENTS:
November 4: Doug Robinson - Adventure Film
December 2: Corey Rich – Slideshow
January 6: Kevin Jorgeson - Tales from the grit.
February 3: Chris Jones - Slideshow
Website: http://www.rockicemountain.org
The Rock, Ice & Mountain Club. Since 1996.
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2008 - 12:28am PT
|
Oops I meant to say "Doug Robinson Feature Film..."
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Oct 25, 2008 - 02:29am PT
|
A film could be considered a very high speed slide show.
|
|
hungry man
Trad climber
around
|
|
|
Oct 25, 2008 - 11:40am PT
|
bump to get this above the Prop. 8 thread for a few minutes.
|
|
east side underground
Trad climber
crowley ca
|
|
|
Oct 25, 2008 - 11:42am PT
|
Doug robinsoy-" it's forty degrees outside "
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Oct 25, 2008 - 12:01pm PT
|
"Reshaped the relationship climbers have with rock (the Clean Climbing Revolution)..."
....completely shot himself in the foot and tarnished his credibility forever by rap-bolting the back of Half Dome ....
I still don't get it. My one-time hero and author of the [to me] hugely influential National Geographic article "Climbing Half Dome the Hard Way", why did he do what he did?
I would still go see his movie and slide show, though, if I were in the area.
|
|
wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
|
|
|
Oct 25, 2008 - 12:12pm PT
|
Hey pete- somewhere else, man. If you don't get it, you don't get it.
As for the film, I own a copy Doug gave me, and it's really, really good. I've watched it more than a few times. There is some really beautiful photography-tele skiing, approaches, a long multipitch or two...mtn. biking, soaking...
It's a really good one.
|
|
Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
|
|
|
Oct 25, 2008 - 12:46pm PT
|
Doug is and always will be a great inspiration to me. His reputation is not tarnished in my book. Pete, you are a small pebble compared to this man.
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
|
bump.
|
|
CAMNOTCLIMB
Trad climber
novato ca
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2008 - 05:37pm PT
|
I going
|
|
ec
climber
ca
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2008 - 06:32pm PT
|
"longest alpine rock route"
Huh?
Maybe not...
Still would like to go...
 ec
|
|
Lightgirl
climber
Mendocino, Ca
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2008 - 07:42pm PT
|
I'm going. Yeah!
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2008 - 10:05pm PT
|
Looking forward to meeting you LightGirl! You should hook up with one of our members, known here as Chisholm, who is a CDF captain in Mendocino.
-Jerry
|
|
Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2008 - 10:11pm PT
|
What Mtnmun said !! The man has always been an inspiration to me and still is.
Cracko
|
|
dogtown
climber
Where I once was,I think?
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2008 - 10:47pm PT
|
Mtnmun wrote; Doug is and always will be a great inspiration to me. His reputation is not tarnished in my book.
I'm with you, Doug and I have known each other for thirty years. He will always be a hero in my book,and one of the kindest men I have ever met.
But you are wrong about Pete.
Pete is a great climber with more than 30 El Cap. Routes under his belt,many of them Solo's you gotta respect that.
|
|
t-bird
Trad climber
Santa Cruz,CA
|
|
ooooooohhh doouuuug, say this in a high voice tone
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
What you guys need to understand is this:
I have no problem with Doug as a person [identity] - I am merely pissed at what he did [behaviour]. Behaviour doesn't determine identity, rather identity determines behaviour.
So I am puzzled that one who espoused clean climbing would rap bolt. I believe it's ok to disprespect a single thing that someone did, and still respect the person as a whole. Although rap bolting a big wall is a big impediment for me, there is no doubt that Doug has done some pretty bitchin' stuff. So I'm cool with Doug as a person, but I hope he gets his ass thoroughly kicked [metaphorically speaking] for rap-bolting the South Face of Half Dome, that he realizes the error of his ways, and goes back and takes out the bolts. And if he doesn't, I hope someone else does. And I hope anyone else thinks twice before doing the same thing. 'nuff said.
So were I in California, I would do the same I do with anyone I have a disagreement with - have a beer, and like, talk about it, eh?
Hope the show is fun, wish I could make it.
Thanks Dogtown, but I'm not much of a climber, not really. I manage to wobble up El Cap routes, but I'm more of a big wall camper these days. If you saw me on a free route or in the gym, you would be embarrassed for me. But we could have a toast on the summit. I haven't ended up on top "dry" for quite some time...
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 10:17pm PT
|
So, like, hey Pete. Some famous dude you claim to know said this once: "Judge not, and ye shall not be judged: condemn not, and ye shall not be condemned, forgive, and ye shall be forgiven."
Its not that I disagree with you, but its time to bury the proverbial hatchet with Doug. The point has been made. Why don't you just call him and talk out your differences voice to voice, which is the next best thing to face to face. This way you won't have to keep kicking the same subject around on the internet like a broken record every time his name is mentioned. Know what I mean, eh?
Peace,
Jerry
|
|
dogtown
climber
Where I once was,I think?
|
|
Hey; Jerry
Good point. Call him Pete. (Mr. modest) It's not often one gets to talk to a legend.
You know I have heard all kinds of stuff about this route on the net. The one thing I have not heard is anything about a second assent. Has there been one? In any case it don't matter I know what Doug would say; Bruce go check it out, judge it for yourself.
So I thought I would.
Bruce
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
OK, Growing Up -- one more round:
Pete, I get it that you don't understand, and you're still mightily offended. Not going into my thinking about it again, again, cuz we did that over and over last spring. "Ground up, period" is a strong idea partly because it draws the line at an unequivocal place that everyone can understand. I still, most of the time, climb that way. Love it, prefer it. But the real answer to Growing Up lies beyond there. It's slightly more subtle -- though grasping the idea of not wanting to fall so far, bouncing down a 75-degree slab, that you get maimed or possibly dead seems understandable. It has everything to do with assessing the actual stone up there, and responding to it more than to you. We're still waiting for someone else to climb it and to come back and tell us in their own words how it is. Bruce, you're on!
I've spiled plenty of words over this, but the whole debate still feels important enough that I wrote an 8-page essay in the new American Alpine Journal. If you've got to keep attacking me, fine. But at least go read that first, cuz I wrote it based on our discussion here on ST last spring. I tried, one more time, to put it to you and Coz and JB and the rest of the skeptics why we rapped on that face. I don't have much hope of convincing you, but at least do me the courtesy of trying to stay open while you read it. Thanks.
And yeah, Pete, I hope to have a beer with you someday. I'd like to hear about some of your El Cap trips. You coming to the Nose celebration next weekend?
Sorry to get sidetracked here.
I look forward to seeing the rest of you in Santa Rosa and taking you with me on a rambling road trip to America's Empty Quarter, the Great Basin.
|
|
east side underground
Trad climber
crowley ca
|
|
doug, "it's forty degrees outsde!!" in memory of M. Strassman our lost, lost bro.
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
Thanks for reminding me where that line came from. I had forty degrees of separation in my confused mind. Memory's a sieve.
Poor lost Mike, RIP
Did you notice that some guys dedicated a new route to Mike, on the south face of Lone Pine Peak? The climbing looks really good.
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2008 - 11:15am PT
|
Bruce,
You said "It's not often one gets to talk to a legend." I've spent enough time talking with legends to know that they take a crap every day just like us mortals, and when they stand on their soap box, its still slippery, and that one doesn't become a legend just because of their words. History will scour the evidence of their actions.
Someone said: "Trust in Allah, but tie up your horse. Put differently: "Trust, but verify." Doug has a reputation and wouldn't say what he's saying if he didn't believe it were true. Someone is going to have to climb that thing and put this mess to rest. Its a bit over my head, but hey, I'd go give it a shot, even if I got totally shut down.
Doug, I'm really looking forward to your presentation, and sharing another beer with you.
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
Ok, Doug - perhaps if we can agree to disagree about the one route in question, most likely we can agree on many other things. Regretably, I am stuck in the Great White North and can't attend The Nose celebration, nor your slide show. However I am on El Cap every spring and every fall season, so with any luck we can hook up for a beer on the bridge next spring.
Jerry - I hear you. [However I have never rap-bolted ... anything .... ever.]
Cheers,
Pete
|
|
dogtown
climber
Where I once was,I think?
|
|
Jerry;
I was playing the peacemaker role to entice some dialog for the better about this subject with Pete and Doug.
I do intend on having a go at the route in the spring baring any unforeseen personal difficulty.
If you would like to join me, it would be my pleasure.
Pete; remember all the trash talk about Mark & Richards route? No one would even go up and check it out. But volumes have been written about it.And it still has not had a second assent as far as I know.What I a trying to say is before I say anything about the route I'm going to climb it.
Peace to all, Bruce
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
I spent hours on the phone talkint to Kate, and I think her piece in Alpinist is really well done. I respect her opinion, as I do yours Coz. Especially yours, since you put up the boldest climb on the whole face. Please take a look at my essay in the AAJ, and see if you can at least respect that I feel differently than you do.
Coz, it looks like you and I, also, will at best agree to disagree. I had my hands on the actual stone of the route, and to my eyes it is not as you describe. The next few ascents will judge.
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2008 - 01:05am PT
|
Hey Coz, I've got an open slot for a presentation in March. Would you like to take it? I'm sure you could put on a good one. Kevin, Pete, you guys are welcome too. I'm putting together the schedule for next year.
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
"Pete; remember all the trash talk about Mark & Richards route? No one would even go up and check it out. But volumes have been written about it. And it still has not had a second assent as far as I know. What I a trying to say is before I say anything about the route I'm going to climb it."
Holy pot calling the kettle black, Batman! Time for Petie to STFU.
A slide show? How about big wall camping on El Cap from one end to the other? I could get you action photos from 36 different routes. Compelling, exciting, palm-sweat-inducing action photos, stuff like making coffee, drinking beers, listening to AC/DC, and - the most diabolical - the infamous solar-powered shower. All with mind-numbing exposure beneath, be still my beating heart.
Grrrrrrripping.
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2008 - 12:42pm PT
|
Pete, I'll take that as a grrripping "Yes." Now what date do you want in 2009? Its the first tuesday of every month, starting after these guys...
November 4: Doug Robinson - Adventure Film (nevada)
December 2: Corey Rich – Slideshow
January 6: Kevin Jorgeson - Tales from the grit.
February 3: Chris Jones - Slideshow
We pay in pizza and beer + gas! Who could resist?
Coz, we'll talk.
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
hey there ... bump... (read the first post for details)...
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2008 - 01:54am PT
|
Well, despite any controversy, Doug Robinson is alright by me. Great event this evening!
Thanks Doug!
|
|
JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
|
|
Jerry,
I waffeled,
I missed it,
Missed ya too!
joe
|
|
Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
|
|
Too bad it was on election night, or I would have been there for sure...
|
|
wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
|
|
Coz- So funny- I just re-read the "Variations on the muir" piece you wrote climbing 176.I love all the not wanting to be judged stuff, and it's easy-to-say-how-you'd-do-it-from-the-ground-but-it's-different-when-you-actually-get-off-your-ass stuff.
And I quote: "But we were much less disturbed by the ticket than by the violent reaction of the public. People assumed the worst. Called us cowards, undisciplined children, ego-maniacs. Accused us of rape and treachery. Wrote scathing letters to the editors of climbing magazines..."
Pot, kettle, black, wha....?
BTW- I liked the piece a lot.
|
|
bob
climber
|
|
Yeah Coz. You get pretty damn heated over stuff so I want to paste a direct quote by you from your post in the "Michael Reardon in Memoriam" thread.
"In short he was a much better person than all the big egos that tried to challenge him. I am here to tell you that climbing is not important, and it does not really matter. If you're having fun you are a good climber. It's climbing over a f*#king rock, it serves no purpose greater than your own ego... get over it. "
You wrote this Coz you don't seem to live by it.
Bob J.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 36 of total 36 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!