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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 15, 2012 - 10:01pm PT
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Nah, I had all those "Lance's Scary Face" probs at 5 mile dialed. This was upcanyon just a bit from cabbage patch, I think. Don't remember the name. And it WOULD have been doable in EB's, Godammit!
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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Jan 15, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
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Climbing at beaver street wall in sf i overheard one climber giving a belay lesson to a noob. Both of them were stoned out of their minds. The noob was belaying the other guy with an atc and i was watching him belay...he was so high he had no idea what he was doing. the climber kept saying take and he would feed out slack... I finally went over to the guy and backed him up (held the brake end). When the climber fell the rope went flying out of the belayer's hand and i was luckily there to grab the rope. Beaver st isn't that tall, but an unlucky fall from that and I could have watched him die if i didn't back up his stoned partner...
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jan 16, 2012 - 12:45am PT
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At the gym I climb and teach at, I was starting to show someone how to climb the offwidth/squeeze chimney feature. Some n00b scoffs and says to me, "That's not a route." Good times...
Josh
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Jan 16, 2012 - 07:51am PT
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This is not meant to be self-aggrandizing, but it somehow always warms my heart...
Used to be condemned to Brussels, a city with no rock for miles, had to get my plastic-pulling on. Teamed up with a few of the local gym rats, who were great guys by the way, but had been climbing indoors for 90% of their time for too long.
Long story short they climbed HARD in the gym. I'm talking warming up on stuff I could perhaps finish on a good day and moving on to stuff that I just walked pass in disgust. 1-2 number grades above me. Then we went bouldering to Fontainebleau on a weekend, and finally, I could enjoy myself properly. Outside they were flailing and failing on easyish problems, while I was happily cruising all around them.
Stupid remark came at the end of the day:
"You should climb more indoors."
KNOTT!
Lasti
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Jan 16, 2012 - 08:02am PT
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hollering "slack" can mean "take in the slack" or "give me some slack". best to get that straight before you begin climbing. so a friend of mine thought he had that all worked out and got into a runout problem on a windy day and spontaneously hollered "f*#k!", at which his belayer queried, "slack?"
JT gets weird in the summertime. HVCG is taken over by german tourists and locals from 29 trying to get away from their heat. strange groups of people come out from ghettos and reptilian lairs on friday nights.
picking a campsite becomes a real crapshoot. try to camp next to german tourists. they clam up into their air-conditioned touramerica RVs shortly after sunset and drive off early the next morning.
so these kids with license plates from all over the u.s. and canada converge on the site next to me and get a huge bonfire going. they make their own music, which i'd ordinarily be inclined to join in with, but it isn't joinable music, it's stuff they're apparently practicing to make it big with in hollywood. about midnight, a stentorian voice: "what's up, california desert?!"
it was an all-nighter. the next morning two males reptiles and one female from this gang have hunkered down to a soul-baring chat. she asks one of the guys, in a voice from the bottom of her heart, "so, would you really f*#k your mother?"
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Sioux Juan
Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
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Jan 16, 2012 - 08:28am PT
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belays on .....climb when ready.....while anchord to the rap bolts on j-tree's toe jam
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jan 16, 2012 - 08:34am PT
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An excuse
"I didn't fall, my foot just slipped off."
Direction
Belayer: "Lift you left foot!"
The climber starts lifting...
Belayer: "No, no... not that one, the other left foot."
Anchoring
Climber after toproping a route: "This anchor ain't done right."
Does the anchor "right" and leans back.
Off he goes, falling 10 meters screaming, stops 1 meter over the ground held by the bolt below.
The first two just funny, the third one more stooped.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 19, 2012 - 08:30am PT
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Heard a girl at the gym last night admonishing her mother (?) about not "short-roping" her just before she tied in and toproped a route.
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