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Haggis
Trad climber
Scotland
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Oct 13, 2008 - 05:45pm PT
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Good clean diagrams that relate to the task. this really separates good how to guides from cryptic bibles.
photos don't work as well as good line drawings.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Oct 13, 2008 - 06:12pm PT
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Chris,
I think it's great you are making a new "how to" bigwall book. The other ones out there just aren't that good, and I know yours will be an improvement.
Couple things:
I would suggest putting in a section on advanced techniques that help people climb faster, like short-fixing, etc.
In your ethics section try to add something about Copperheads being a last resort form of pro. It seems there is an increasing trend to smash a head in a good pin scar that could take a pin or even clean pro. Also add that drilling bathook hole to bypass a tricky section is unacceptable. Even worse filling that hole with a head! Lot of that going on up there it seems.
I think you should show all the different types of equipment being used like Kong Block-Roll vs Pro Trax, Gri-Gri vs Silent Partner, etc.
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dougs510
Social climber
down south
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Oct 13, 2008 - 07:52pm PT
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bump
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Oct 13, 2008 - 08:08pm PT
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Some topic suggestions:
Tricks of the ultra-fast: how the heck do ya climb the Nose in 2:37?
Tricks of climbing "regular" fast on more aided climbs:, (egZodiac in a day), two person vs. three person, ropes, anchors, etc.
Application of Yosemite techniques to the remote mountains--fast, light, and lots of free.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 14, 2008 - 03:07pm PT
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A chapter on "Visualizing".
It's an extremely important subject matter that never gets mentioned. A lot of times these "how to books" turn people into instant robots.
Visualizing anchor layouts for efficiency in all it's varied dynamics. Visualizing scenarios that can create, efficiency, robustness, speed, along with eliminating potential dangerous problems that can cause reorganizing the anchor later.
In a nutshell, visualize a clean efficient layout, before making the huge clusterfuks I've seen parties make time and time again.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Oct 14, 2008 - 04:29pm PT
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"Visualizing anchor layouts for efficiency in all it's varied dynamics."
I think this takes awhile to learn.
Along those lines, the important piece is to lay out the principles - ie, what kinds of loads are present, how hauling and such fits into the anchor, etc.
The only way anyone is going to be able to visualize anything is if they have a library of working pieces and requirments. I think the "robot" comment comes from trying to apply just a few ways of doing things to every situation, perhaps not understanding the fundamentals well enough to be able to invent on the fly, which is the goal.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Oct 14, 2008 - 04:41pm PT
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Thread Drift- n00bs need to spend more time visualizing the Send and not the Bail.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Oct 14, 2008 - 04:55pm PT
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Chris,
What type of book are you aiming to write? Long/Middendorf style basics to get started or something more Chongoesque in its breadth?
If you go the Chongo route w/ more advanced topics (and I hope you do), you might have some sort of icon/bullet system that differentiates between the most n00b-friendly way of doing things vs. slick tricks that work best on overhanging rock in the hands of experts.
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Jim E
climber
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Oct 15, 2008 - 11:44am PT
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bump
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Oct 15, 2008 - 02:39pm PT
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Topics I see as being weak in the existing books:
1. Aid shoe strategies (boots vs approach shoes vs climbing shoes). I've wasted too much money on shoes that suck too badly on the approach, 5.easy freeing, and/or smashing toes/feet in aiders.
2. Soloing.
3. Good pictures and diagrams of mechanical advantage rigs for hauling. Bad hauling destroys morale faster than scary aid pitches.
4. Staying comfy on multi-hour belays.
5. Multi-bag rigging for hauling. I'm suprised by the arguments I get into at the base on this seemingly simple task.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Oct 15, 2008 - 02:58pm PT
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expando techniques
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Wheatus
Social climber
CA
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Oct 15, 2008 - 03:08pm PT
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I like Werner's post on "Visualization". For me actually getting on the wall is always the problem. Before launching off the ground the butterflies of doubt and fear creep in. Once on the wall, I always relax knowing that going up is usually easier than backing off. Once we start climbing the "fun" begins and the "focus" on the goal is razor sharp. It is the mental commitment that gets me up the wall.
I would also discuss how to "improvise". It seems you can never bring enough gear and water on a wall. At some point I am always taking gear or water out of the haul bag so we can actually reasonably manage to haul the bag.
Comfort and Preventative Hand Care:
My partner wears contacts and always brings "baby wipes". Two wipes at the end of a long day are great to remove the crud from your face and hands. It almost feels like a shower.
Cleaning your hands and applying a little moisture cream under your nails and in your cuticles avoids those painful cuticle splits and nail separation. There were times my finger tips were so sore from nail separations that I could not bear to touch anything. Cleaning and moisturizing my nails each day avoided this problem.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Oct 15, 2008 - 04:37pm PT
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photos of all the potentail types of Cam Hook placements that can work.
I think a lot of people need to 'see it to believe' what can be done with those things.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Ensolite pads lining the haul bag
Let us know!