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Messages 41 - 58 of total 58 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>

Mountain climber
Mar 11, 2009 - 02:58pm PT
It occurs to me you should mention something about wearing out your tie-in loops, webbing, daisies, UV damage, etc.
Gear is cheap, replace it often.

Trad climber
san diego, ca
Mar 27, 2009 - 06:26am PT
Chris, first want to say that all your posts on How to Big Wall climb are awesome! As someone who aspires to climb Yosemite big walls i'm eating up any info I can get my hands on.
I was wondering how far along you were with your book or if you had a projected date for it. I'm sure from what I've seen thus far that it will be extremely helpful for guys like me. Thanks!
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2009 - 11:49am PT
i just updated the list with a discussion of best aiders to use

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
Mar 31, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
Bump. Just priming for wednesday, you know, bump day.

Good stuff, and yes, I do draw inspiration from Supertopo, and keep my stoke going when the weather just won't allow going up.
Brutus of Wyde

Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Apr 2, 2009 - 10:31am PT
Chris, a small section devoted to freeing a stuck haul-bag (i.e. "bouncing" the bag over roofs) might be worthwhile. A video of the hauler, then of the bag, would be best, but otherwise here's a short visual description:
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2009 - 12:49pm PT
I just added the "Get Psyched Reading and Movie List"

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Apr 9, 2009 - 12:11pm PT
b u m P!!!111
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2009 - 12:53pm PT
I just added this chapter to the list: Basic Leading on Vertical and Overhanging Terrain

Aug 14, 2009 - 12:22am PT
Chris - great work.

Hey, I see tons of ways to arrange bags. Vertically, side by side, with catch lines etc. Something on this would/may help management which is difficult to "visualize". Nice stab at a complex picture.

Also, photos of anchors before the bags arrive - and then why they are placed to the left, right or center etc.


Trad climber
A trailer park in the Sierras
Aug 31, 2009 - 02:21pm PT
Hey Chris - you might want to add a section about how to safely practice some of the more basic techniques without a partner. Unless you have a really patient partner, or a really cool girlfriend, it may be more convenient for many to practice aid stuff alone (at least it is for me), without someone belaying them from the ground.

Self-belay with a grigri on toprope has been the easiest way for me - my piece blows, the grigri catches me. Maybe explain the dynamics of this and/or any other methods that work.

Also, regarding gear - it would be a good idea to list which gear is the most essential to start out with, ie. daisies/aiders/jumars. If you have the essential gear first, it enables you to go do a wall with a more experienced friend who is more likely to have plenty of pro, but not two sets of daisies/aiders/jumars.

So far, what you've posted is invaluable information for the blossoming wall climber (me). Keep it coming!
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2009 - 02:07pm PT
I just added another chapter

Trad climber
Provo, Ut
Sep 28, 2009 - 02:38pm PT
You're awesome. Thanks for doing this.


Trad climber
The state of confusion
Sep 28, 2009 - 07:00pm PT
Thanks so much for all of your efforts on this!!!!

Trad climber
St. Paul, MN
Nov 10, 2009 - 11:59pm PT
Any idea when the book will be out?
Climbing dropout

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Nov 11, 2009 - 01:03am PT
not a book suggestion but Chris there has to be a better way to find the actual climbing related threads in the forum. many threads here have little to do with climbing, though they are entertaining. Trip reports are easy to find, can you flag the forum posts that are actually about climbing somehow ? I have been sifting though old ones by searching profiles from those whom do contribute great climbing threads.

It would be a lot of work to isolate the top climbing threads, I realize.

Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
Nov 19, 2009 - 12:37pm PT
Great idea, here are a few things;
:More than 5 days worth of gear for two people, "double haul", one extra rope, extra Pro traxtion, two swivels, one on the Pro traxtion, one on the bag.
:If above anchor is off to either side and bags need to be lowerd out a long ways, best to set up power point with a sliding, equillized spectra cordelet with back up sling to anchor points.
:Clove hitching, around sharp objects.
:Achoring zip line, so second can use it for back up.
:Walkie talkies!
So many things, you opened a can of worms!

Trad climber
The Lost Highway
Nov 19, 2009 - 01:04pm PT
i agree with climbing dropout-

it would be great if there was a new tab that had a compilation of tricks of the trade and technique.

i've thought of trying to compile a thread of links to those threads, but it seems like there is so much info it needs its own tab.

Trad climber
quebec canada
Oct 7, 2010 - 12:29pm PT
climbing partner and how to keep the nose as a great human expericence. I think that it is not in the introduction that you must talk about that. There is some climber who did the nose and don't even remember the route. They did it as a tick list. done...without fear and plaisir. Must climber will tell you that the best route ever climb was those who the person have to work at it to be able to do it. At the summit, many people have a kind of deception has they will not dream anymore about it...even if they are other objective as great as this one.

One can keep the nose at the level of a duty to show how good they are, other can want to enjoy to be in hard situation with good friends.
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