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crossman04
Trad climber
san diego, ca
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Mar 27, 2009 - 06:26am PT
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Chris, first want to say that all your posts on How to Big Wall climb are awesome! As someone who aspires to climb Yosemite big walls i'm eating up any info I can get my hands on.
I was wondering how far along you were with your book or if you had a projected date for it. I'm sure from what I've seen thus far that it will be extremely helpful for guys like me. Thanks!
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xtrmecat
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
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Mar 31, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
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Bump. Just priming for wednesday, you know, bump day.
Good stuff, and yes, I do draw inspiration from Supertopo, and keep my stoke going when the weather just won't allow going up.
Bob
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Chris, a small section devoted to freeing a stuck haul-bag (i.e. "bouncing" the bag over roofs) might be worthwhile. A video of the hauler, then of the bag, would be best, but otherwise here's a short visual description:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/106444.html
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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b u m P!!!111
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
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Aug 14, 2009 - 12:22am PT
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Chris - great work.
Hey, I see tons of ways to arrange bags. Vertically, side by side, with catch lines etc. Something on this would/may help management which is difficult to "visualize". Nice stab at a complex picture.
Also, photos of anchors before the bags arrive - and then why they are placed to the left, right or center etc.
TCarter
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jfailing
Trad climber
A trailer park in the Sierras
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Aug 31, 2009 - 02:21pm PT
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Hey Chris - you might want to add a section about how to safely practice some of the more basic techniques without a partner. Unless you have a really patient partner, or a really cool girlfriend, it may be more convenient for many to practice aid stuff alone (at least it is for me), without someone belaying them from the ground.
Self-belay with a grigri on toprope has been the easiest way for me - my piece blows, the grigri catches me. Maybe explain the dynamics of this and/or any other methods that work.
Also, regarding gear - it would be a good idea to list which gear is the most essential to start out with, ie. daisies/aiders/jumars. If you have the essential gear first, it enables you to go do a wall with a more experienced friend who is more likely to have plenty of pro, but not two sets of daisies/aiders/jumars.
So far, what you've posted is invaluable information for the blossoming wall climber (me). Keep it coming!
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Scrunch
Trad climber
Provo, Ut
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Sep 28, 2009 - 02:38pm PT
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You're awesome. Thanks for doing this.
Adam
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Sep 28, 2009 - 07:00pm PT
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Chris
Thanks so much for all of your efforts on this!!!!
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charlie.elverson
Trad climber
St. Paul, MN
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Nov 10, 2009 - 11:59pm PT
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Any idea when the book will be out?
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Climbing dropout
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Nov 11, 2009 - 01:03am PT
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not a book suggestion but Chris there has to be a better way to find the actual climbing related threads in the forum. many threads here have little to do with climbing, though they are entertaining. Trip reports are easy to find, can you flag the forum posts that are actually about climbing somehow ? I have been sifting though old ones by searching profiles from those whom do contribute great climbing threads.
It would be a lot of work to isolate the top climbing threads, I realize.
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Bulldog
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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Nov 19, 2009 - 12:37pm PT
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Great idea, here are a few things;
:More than 5 days worth of gear for two people, "double haul", one extra rope, extra Pro traxtion, two swivels, one on the Pro traxtion, one on the bag.
:If above anchor is off to either side and bags need to be lowerd out a long ways, best to set up power point with a sliding, equillized spectra cordelet with back up sling to anchor points.
:Clove hitching, around sharp objects.
:Achoring zip line, so second can use it for back up.
:Walkie talkies!
So many things, you opened a can of worms!
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jcques
Trad climber
quebec canada
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Hi
climbing partner and how to keep the nose as a great human expericence. I think that it is not in the introduction that you must talk about that. There is some climber who did the nose and don't even remember the route. They did it as a tick list. done...without fear and plaisir. Must climber will tell you that the best route ever climb was those who the person have to work at it to be able to do it. At the summit, many people have a kind of deception has they will not dream anymore about it...even if they are other objective as great as this one.
One can keep the nose at the level of a duty to show how good they are, other can want to enjoy to be in hard situation with good friends.
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